We talked to Woodmizer and they said that the blades shouldn’t be snapping like that. After showing them some pictures of where the blades have been snapping, I’ll let you know what they say.
It really sounds like they failed in the welding or annealing of the weld. Good that you talked to them. I'll bet they have a flawed batch of blades that you obtained. In any event, they should hear about it.
Get a farm fuel tank with transfer pump & long hose w/nozzle that can be locked up . Check blade temp on occasion w/digital thermometer . PM : Surveillance .
Keep a detailed logbook with as much detail as possible: Number of cuts between sharpenings; number of sharpenings; tension on each install; type of wood cut; ... anything you can think of. That is DATA. Then discussing the data with the manufacturer can help them help you.
xyz, that was the best advice you could give Emerald. Data is very important. I'm sure those gals can set up a spreadsheet. Will save money in the long run.
Try some aftermarket blades… sometimes the manufacturers cheap out and overcharge for “ their “ blades…also get an inexpensive 15 gallon fuel cell with a hand pump and keep #1 diesel in it. They are the handtruck type. There are only solutions.
I have to agree with a lot of the commentators the welds were not annealed properly, Years ago in the machine shop we welded the metal cutting blades ourselves, when they were not welded and annealed properly they would break every time. Joe Maine in Georgia makes Wood miser blades for many band saws including the LT 70 series. And as others said contact Wood Miser to inspect your saw in case there are other problems, although I do feel the problem is bad welds. Good Luck hope the problem is solved soon... John Toccoa GA
Sounds like something that could get broken easily with two tank setup. Scale would be nice and grandpa might be able to do a custom one that is easily read from far away. I'm surprised if the manufacturer hasn't made a digital one for it though.. There seems to be a lot of electronics in the new mill, so it's strange that the fuel and water could just run out without warning.
Welds are brittle. They need to be tempered/drawn back after welding. The finished weld needs to be heated to a light orange color and left to cool to room temp before filing smooth. You probably know this.
We’ve sawn for a lot of years with a Wood-Mizer. The first thing you want to check is the blade tension. Make sure it is running high enough. These blades are designed with a very high breaking strength. Next, make sure your blades are not running against the back of the roller guides. They should be 1/16-1/8” off the roller guide even when cutting. It sounds like you’ve got stress cracks. Could be a bad batch of blades but doubtful. You saw mostly hemlock so blade cleaning/lube should not be an issue but if you’re into pine or fir with a lot more sap, you’ll want to run your cleaning solution higher. We have the lube mizer which I can’t recommend highly enough over a drip system. Also, mix Dawn dish washing detergent in with your water. It’s incredible at cleaning pitch off the blades. It’s possible you may be crowding the blade too much but usually that will show up when you hit a knot with the blade diving into the cut.
Oh and as for the fuel issues I’d get a fuel cart or mount a transfer tank to a skid or pallet and get extension lines. If woodmizer says distance or height to draw fuel is an issue then just add an inline 12 volt chugger pump powered when the key is on. 👍🏼
@@scottsoperplatform ladder doesn’t resolve frequent refueling due to lack of volume but I hear where you’re coming from, although a ladder like that would more than likely be in the way. They’ll figure something out they always do!
@@Kwhopperfan I would expect that the mil burns one to one and a half gallons of fuel at full blast. (fuel tank looks to be five gallons) So they don't have to get up there all that often. The storage shed is right there so no problem to get the ladder and the extra fuel tank.
Some really good ideas. I think you need to make a list of priorities. Safety is always #1 1. Fuel and water replacement should be made easier. Pushing tanks over your head to empty is physically not safe. That needs to be changed. 2. Monitoring fluid levels is a necessary task. Ask Wood Mizer for advice. 3. Blade breakage can come from two different avenues. The guides on the side and rear of the blade should be inspected for wear or damage. Check top and bottom guides. 4.Make a log of each blade’s performance. Add notes as to how it functioned. After you have the data contact the blade manufacturer. Show them your written data of each blade. Ask them for recommendations. If you can get a few blades from another company. Try them as a comparison. This is good so one manufacturer knows you are looking for better blades. Teaching wood shop for 42 years. I’ve had two companies I wouldn’t buy blades from again. Have your data when talking to manufacturers. Good luck
Many years ago I worked in a high rise office building with a small parking lot Peter Folger parked his car there, he was a nice guy he drove a Mercedes Benz with a rabbit as the hood ornament.
when i fill the lt70 i leave the tank on top and lower the saw head to the deck and stand on a 6ft ladder to avoid sawdust. also i run at 80psi and rarely get failures.
I have a hardwood mill gt34 Australian, I had a similar problem with blades breaking out side the log it was a brand new machine and it ended up being the band wheel bearings were faulty even though they felt good . I also have to say love your channel , all the best from Australia 😊
Suggestion 1: Buy a couple more 5 gal diesel cans and keep them half full. Suggestion 2: Plan to fuel at mid-day every day, with that half a can of fuel, which will be a lot easier to hoist up there.
Check the blade tracking sometimes the bolts loosen to check the drive side you need the engine off and the blade engaged with no tension then see if the drive side wobbles when you shake it
if you have an hour meter you could keep track of that and get some of control on the fuel , also large logs take more horsepower than smaller logs that may be a difference in fuel consumption ,it's something to look at , watch the break if it's in the weld and still on the factory sharpen ,call them or send it back they should fix or replace it
Em, My family used to have some friends that lived in Costa Rica, and they would send us roasted coffee beans. After drinking that coffee and going back to domestic brands was like drinking mud.
The blade breakage is definitely due to the welding process. I used a butt welding machine in Starretts and if the blades were not aligned exactly the weld was weakened. I used to test the welded blades on a reciprocating machine to determine the quality of the weld.
So on my LT 40 water tank I cut a neat hole in the top for an ABS shower drain with the drain flange in the tank and a female adapter on top with a threaded cap . Cut two sides flat on the ABS flange to get it in the tank and install with the rubber gasket. No more lifting tank full of water.
The reason blades break on band saws its because of the bearings that guide the blade are bad just replace them and the baldes will last a long time .. It was happening to my metal band saw and I found a video on line that showed how to replace them and it worked .
I work with precious metals at work and use a bandsaw for cutting on one casting machine of ours. I have had times where I will go thru several blades back to back. All breaking at or near the weld. Then all is good for a long time. Since I made no adjustment to tension I always assumed we would occasionally get a few bad blades in an order of new blades. It is like the metal just has a bad spot around the welds probably from the heat from the welding process. One time the company bought a batch of blades discounted to a cheaper price from the same company we always order from and every one broke in a short time.
The sound of power from the disel engine as it is revved up high, the big blade's teeth go out of sight and cuts through the log like a piece of pie The sawdust piles up and the logs go down, as Emerald and Jade keeps the big saw blade spinning around. Good job girls.
Hello. I love your channel and the content. I got a new sawmill about the same time you guys did. The learning curve has been steep but working through some of the same issues. One of the last things I think about while sawing is fuel. I have not run out of diesel yet but have come close. With my old mill, I rarely broke blades. New mill: break several every week. So frustrating. As many videos as you ladies have, you should post one of a blade snapping and the process of removing the blade. 🪚🪚🪚
Get a small Transfer pump. You can sometimes find 12V ones for transfer from tank to tank. Try one of those pumps that install on a drill. Try less tension on the blade and slower feed. Mark those blades and hours and return to supplier. Possibly a bad batch. Your Butt will be fine!
Try a different blade supplier, If you are using water to lube the blade add sssome cheap detergent. As for the fuel. Put the full containers in the bucket of the loader and lift to the height you need and slide them on. It saves you lifting. Great vid as usual.
One of the possibilities of the band failure is from heat stress. The blade is moving a lot quicker then the old 40. If you have a chance have someone hold a heat gun on the blade to see what the temperature is of the blade as it exits the wood. One of the things I hate is dispensing gas with these new government required safety fuel cans. I bought a small battery operated fuel pump. It pumps 2.2 gals. per minute. Seeing the fuel tank on the new mill is on top of the machine. Your going to have problems getting fuel in it by using 5 gallon cans. With the fuel pump you can put the can in the loader bucket and use the pump to tranfer the fuel.
I put my diesel in a 55 gallon plastic barrel, and have a hand-pump on it, with a hose like at a gas station. Works well, but I don't know if there is a place to put it next to the sawmill that would be safe from getting hit by a log or something.
One just uses another WoodMizer fuel tank for that machine. One takes the empty can off and puts the full can on. not filling the tank while on top with a fuel can.
Use an indelibly pen where the weld is on the blade you use. You can see if the weld brakes as the pen mark will be each side of the break. Good luck and keep safe.
I had the same problem and it was my blade was hitting on the rollers in the cut and it would snap the blade every time. I adjusted them back from the blade and never had a problem sense.
I remember back in Vo-Tech school. we had to weld the blades for our steel band saw. Once you welded the blade you let it cool for a few seconds and then you had to bring it back up to just before cherry red to anneal the welded area. if you didn't do it properly it would be too brittle and it would break at the weld.
The blade snapping problem is due to improperly annealed splice joint. When you join the blade together and send an electric current into it, it welds the metal together. When this happens the blade gets cherry red. You then let cool down. After it is cooled down you bring it back to a dull red for 5 to 10 seconds and let cool down (this is annealing). It sound like they are not annealing the blades properly ( joint is too brittal). I do not if this helps or not but I would run the tension at it normal recommended setting.😊
My first thought is the blades are not made right but the tensioner may have a problem as well. As for the diesel a transfer pump is the answer. Your grandpa can fix you up. Little problems add up to a big nuisance. You can get an aftermarket fuel guage. Keep in contact with woodmizer to see if others are having the same issues. Excellent job ladies thank you for sharing.👍♥️♥️
Your customer with the disk issue is just representative of those folks that do real work for a living. The good news and bad news is that if they can still function, there is no major problem….even if there is one. An example of this is a 75 yr old friend of mine knew I was going to Lowe’s to pick up a load of 2x12s on the roof of my van. He said he was headed to the VA to see a doc about what he thought was a minor cough, and would stop by and help me. Help to him means doing more than his share of the work and afterwards he goes to the VA hospital. They put him in intensive care for a week with a serious pulmonary infection. Some of these folks won’t quit strenuous work until two weeks after they are pronounced deceased.
Hi Emerald and Jade If you google why does diesel amount vary in use you will find everything from dirty components, soot deposits on injectors, storage, age, whether it has been treated with biocides. As for a gauge you could use a small short brass tube through a small hole in the lid then a skewer with a cork on the end through the tube, the brass tube keeps the skewer straight.
What about adding a clear tube on the outside of your tanks that would show the fuel level? There may be an accessory to the connections from the manufacturer to show the level with a clear glass or plastic tube.
Oh you girls will know all about disc trouble eventually if you keep up this type of work. I'm only 36 and have two bad discs since my late 20's. But you get on with it. Old boy loading up his truck was probably just used to it by now haha!
I hope you are able to find the cause of the blades breaking soon. I mean let alone the down time and the expense of the blade those things are scary and dangerous. I am happy to hear that Woodmizer has been notified and recognize a problem exists. Have a great afternoon and an even better holiday weekend.😉
As long as that saw rig isn't going to be moving around get a bigger remote tank and plum it into the line. If you went to salvage yard you might get a tank off a semi truck with the tank sending unit and mount a gauge on your saw control pod and wala gauge!
And for the fuel tank, keeping sawdust out of those tubes, get a couple of pieces of silicone tubeing that fits tight and put a plug in the other end and maybe a hose clamp or zip tie and your set to go easy peezy 🙃🙃
Check the lot number on the blades to see if they came from the same manufacturer run. This could be a problem from the metal prep before welding. The blades are probably spot welded, and back in the day when I was a machinist we also found that the .metal the blades were manufactured from was often inconsistent. We solved the problem by brazing the blades instead of spot welding. If you did braze instead of spot weld you would have to setup the grinder for sharpening starting at the brazing joint each time you sharpened blades. That should not be a problem.
For the new blades before mounting them on the bandsaw, you may want to anneal the weld joint. To do that you'll need a propane torch. You heat the area of the weld joint until it turns a gun-blue color. Then immediately pour about a gallon of cold water on the heated area until it is cool to the touch. Normally you would drop an annealed metal part into a bucket of water or oil but you can't do that with a large bandsaw blade.
I'd drill a hole in the bottom of the 'gas' tank then drill and tap it for a pipe thread. Install pieces of pipe to come out from the bottom and up the side of the tank. Then install a vertical (plastic) 'glass'. The diesel level in the glass will mirror the level in the tank. Another, simple, option would be to buy a plastic gas tank for a boat. You can get them many sizes and shapes. Get one big enough to last an entire day. Then you only have to fill, from Dad's e-pump, once each day.
@@scottsoper Scott, the gas tank is already there. I'm not saying to add another tank - just use the gas tank for diesel. If you do use a plastic tank, remove steel gas tank. Either way you won't be adding any weight over the original gas tank.
@@laughton57 I did not explain well. I was focusing on the idea of a bigger fuel tank that would last the entire day. More fuel is more weight up on the mill head which I don't think is a good idea.
I don't like how the LT70 bounces up and down and jiggles around because of the weight of the diesel motor. I wonder if it creates extra tension on the blade and that's what is making them break sooner? I would love to see an all electric version of the LT woodmill. It would be great to eliminate all that weight from the motor and fuel tank. And less maintenance too and fuel savings.
@@JayWye52I think I would be considering having a usefully sized diesel genny installed and then you could get rid of the myriad of gas and diesel engines powering everything. Three phase too for the big saw.
I don't know how you feel about modifications. but to add a float gauge would not be too difficult. just look up fuel tank float gauge and find one the appropriate size. it would only require you to cut a hole in the top of the tank to put it in.
Get a digital thermometer and check the blade temp then find out what the manufacturers temp tolerance is supposed to be for it. The factory welds may not have been done properly and, after heating up during the cut, are weakened from the heat. This leads to snapping after your cut because it’s cooling down and the weld is contracting, weakening it further and making it snap.
Well for one I really think you guys are great beautiful eyes by the way love watching you ladies and the talks that you have wanted to comment on the blade yeah I think it's just getting too hot maybe it's the cool-down process with the water as well as a lot more power behind that machine putting more torque on the blade and yeah you're right that machine moves fast so that could be a combination of it as well just the blade getting so hot so fast thanks for all your info ladies bye for now😂
When blade comes out of the log, when? Seconds? Temperature balancing? Harmonic vibrations from no load in combination with the contraction from cooling. Blade tension, less can cause oscillation and vibration when blade is unloaded.
You should be able to setup a large tank down closer to the ground with a vehicle fuel pump up to the intake that runs on DC(battery) or via a inverter. Once you get up to a larger sized tank you might be able to have the diesel delivered instead of having to haul it yourself.
You can put your own site tube in the fuel tank with parts from the hardware store and you install it right buy the filler neck and for the part where you have trouble with filling the water or fuel use a machine with forks and a Palit or bucket to lift you up so it's not so difficult 😉 ❤
Or just use a platform ladder. Use a high beam headlight shining on the top of the tank. Should light it up enough to see the fuel level through the yellow plastic.
You could have some sawdust sticking to the blade wheels, or a sharp high place like some piece of metal, or a bump, or some crud on the wheels. You might check the blade at the weld for a smooth surface on both sides and for any defects in the weld before you put it on.
Dear Scott, I think I understand that several blades have broken, and personally, I find that the log saw control is placed upside down, (which can also cause the blade to break) for the simple reason that Emerald does not see the precise moment when the cutting begins. Therefore, it enters the wood too quickly and gives a severe shock to the blade. Reversing the control station could only be beneficial and would increase accuracy, blade life and even working speed. I say this as an old man's advice, because you alone are the boss. I wish you an excellent continuation, and may God bless you all.
There could be Stress fracture in the weld and the best way is if Woodmizer did the stress check at the factory if there not doing that well it could be bad if somebody got injured by one of there blades
As for the diesel better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it and Grandpa was right the first place you should have looked was at the weld and you Irish girls are the prettiest 🤠🐝
I ran Woodmizers 30 years ago and had this same issue with a batch of new blades, all broke at the weld. I don't think it's anything you are doing wrong unless you are trying to power through too fast. It is either a bad welder or a bad batch of steel. I don't know if you can have Woodmizer track down the batch number and see if anyone else is having premature breakage. Happy Sawing
The weld point is the least flexible and most brittle part of the blade. If it is breaking on that point constantly it is getting metal fatigue. I wounder if there is a heat process that may help this.
What if you fill the tank in the morning before you start, fill it right after you come back from lunch, fill it at quitting time when you clean oil, and grease before you go home. My guess would be your power feed is too fast for the blade speed. But, I have only run my band mill with manual feed, so I would not know. I do know, you don't need quite so much shiny stuff to look nice. God gave you good looks, Hope you find a nice hubby.
They usually replace them if they break at the weld . You should not be seeing wear on the back of your rollers . The wheels might need a little tweaking
Others also suggested it but I would put a sight glass on tour tanks since you always use the same ones. You can get snap in or screw in fittings for your plastic tanks to carry a clear polycarbonate pipe so you can see the diesel level. Polycarbonate will withstand reasonably rough treatment. The other option is a float gauge - you would have to fabricate your own since I doubt they make one for a small tank like that. Piece of PVC pipe that will fit in the top opening with a smaller diameter piece that can slide inside it filled with foam and containing a slim aluminum rod. Mark the rod with red tape at 20% intervals.
You may be able to splice in a tee and attach a clear tygon hose and run it up along the diesel container. Grandpa can figure that one out. Also does sound like manufacturing defects in the blades.
We talked to Woodmizer and they said that the blades shouldn’t be snapping like that. After showing them some pictures of where the blades have been snapping, I’ll let you know what they say.
Em get you a leaf blower that will help blow off your machine. Yall need a stationary fuel tank to fill from.
On my regular horizontal bandsaw the blade will usually snap at the weld.
Hi, Excellent video. Woodmizer may have a solution for the small fuel and water tanks because they do ride on top by the engine.
It really sounds like they failed in the welding or annealing of the weld. Good that you talked to them. I'll bet they have a flawed batch of blades that you obtained. In any event, they should hear about it.
@@bio-techlarry9602 It's possible to add a sight glass to the tank, or I think you can buy a cap with a fuel gauge on it.
Red hair! The eyes, the eyes, the eyes!!!!!! WOW!❤
Yeah, those shocking eyes - Who gets the DNA credit ?
Supermodel/Lumber Sawyer! 🤩👍
Colored contacts??😳
She’s got “tiger eyes” very rare and beautiful
Yea and you can tell she is about as stuck up as they get. Not worth it.
Get a farm fuel tank with transfer pump & long hose w/nozzle that can be locked up . Check blade temp on occasion w/digital thermometer . PM : Surveillance .
Keep a detailed logbook with as much detail as possible: Number of cuts between sharpenings; number of sharpenings; tension on each install; type of wood cut; ... anything you can think of. That is DATA. Then discussing the data with the manufacturer can help them help you.
If you're collecting data, type it straight into an organized computer spreadsheet. You never want to be forced transcribe it again.
xyz, that was the best advice you could give Emerald. Data is very important. I'm sure those gals can set up a spreadsheet. Will save money in the long run.
Try some aftermarket blades… sometimes the manufacturers cheap out and overcharge for “ their “ blades…also get an inexpensive 15 gallon fuel cell with a hand pump and keep #1 diesel in it. They are the handtruck type.
There are only solutions.
@@Dadwithallthecool Do you have any after market manufacturers you can recommend? thanks!
@@lumbercycle136 I don’t. Check on the internet. I don’t own a sawmill, I only worked with a friend who had a LT40 and he had someone make his blades.
I have to agree with a lot of the commentators the welds were not annealed properly, Years ago in the machine shop we welded the metal cutting blades ourselves, when they were not welded and annealed properly they would break every time. Joe Maine in Georgia makes Wood miser blades for many band saws including the LT 70 series. And as others said contact Wood Miser to inspect your saw in case there are other problems, although I do feel the problem is bad welds. Good Luck hope the problem is solved soon... John Toccoa GA
Despits setbacks i hope you have a great day and enjoy the rest of the holiday weekend.
I have been watching on and off for years but there filming is getting better and better.
May be a temper problem on the weld. Something to think about, if it's not tempered right it can't handle flexing as much
Prayers to your customer, that's a painful injury.
Great incitful video, woodmizer needs to check this out.
God Bless folks.
Amazon has sight glass kits and fuel level caps to keep an eye on tank levels.
A sight glass would help them out and Gramps is sharp enough to install one. Talk nice to him and maybe he’ll get on it. Lol
Put a clear sight tube that is connected to the tank to show the level of fuel inside.
This is exactly what I was going to suggest if no one beat me to it. An external sight gauge for the fuel tank.
Definitely this.
Sounds like something that could get broken easily with two tank setup. Scale would be nice and grandpa might be able to do a custom one that is easily read from far away.
I'm surprised if the manufacturer hasn't made a digital one for it though.. There seems to be a lot of electronics in the new mill, so it's strange that the fuel and water could just run out without warning.
Welds are brittle. They need to be tempered/drawn back after welding. The finished weld needs to be heated to a light orange color and left to cool to room temp before filing smooth. You probably know this.
We’ve sawn for a lot of years with a Wood-Mizer. The first thing you want to check is the blade tension. Make sure it is running high enough. These blades are designed with a very high breaking strength. Next, make sure your blades are not running against the back of the roller guides. They should be 1/16-1/8” off the roller guide even when cutting. It sounds like you’ve got stress cracks. Could be a bad batch of blades but doubtful.
You saw mostly hemlock so blade cleaning/lube should not be an issue but if you’re into pine or fir with a lot more sap, you’ll want to run your cleaning solution higher. We have the lube mizer which I can’t recommend highly enough over a drip system. Also, mix Dawn dish washing detergent in with your water. It’s incredible at cleaning pitch off the blades.
It’s possible you may be crowding the blade too much but usually that will show up when you hit a knot with the blade diving into the cut.
Oh and as for the fuel issues I’d get a fuel cart or mount a transfer tank to a skid or pallet and get extension lines. If woodmizer says distance or height to draw fuel is an issue then just add an inline 12 volt chugger pump powered when the key is on. 👍🏼
Just use a platform ladder. They have to get the water/lubricant up there as well.
@@scottsoperplatform ladder doesn’t resolve frequent refueling due to lack of volume but I hear where you’re coming from, although a ladder like that would more than likely be in the way. They’ll figure something out they always do!
@@Kwhopperfan I would expect that the mil burns one to one and a half gallons of fuel at full blast. (fuel tank looks to be five gallons) So they don't have to get up there all that often. The storage shed is right there so no problem to get the ladder and the extra fuel tank.
Some really good ideas. I think you need to make a list of priorities. Safety is always #1
1. Fuel and water replacement should be made easier. Pushing tanks over your head to empty is physically not safe. That needs to be changed.
2. Monitoring fluid levels is a necessary task. Ask Wood Mizer for advice.
3. Blade breakage can come from two different avenues.
The guides on the side and rear of the blade should be inspected for wear or damage. Check top and bottom guides.
4.Make a log of each blade’s performance. Add notes as to how it functioned. After you have the data contact the blade manufacturer. Show them your written data of each blade. Ask them for recommendations.
If you can get a few blades from another company. Try them as a comparison. This is good so one manufacturer knows you are looking for better blades.
Teaching wood shop for 42 years. I’ve had two companies I wouldn’t buy blades from again.
Have your data when talking to manufacturers.
Good luck
Emerald, you do so well, it will only get better. Much love
YOUR EYES ARE SO BEAUTIFUL THEY R THE PATH WAY TO YOUR SOUL
4:01 Wow! Those bicep veins are very noticeable!
You are a smooth operator!
Many years ago I worked in a high rise office building with a small parking lot Peter Folger parked his car there, he was a nice guy he drove a Mercedes Benz with a rabbit as the hood ornament.
Get it girl.
Maybe the weld on the blades isn't getting properly annealed at the manufacturer?
when i fill the lt70 i leave the tank on top and lower the saw head to the deck and stand on a 6ft ladder to avoid sawdust. also i run at 80psi and rarely get failures.
The on line WoodMizer video says 80psi.
You can install site glass kits on those diesel tanks. 👍
You girls are so smart and pretty. I know your parents are proud of you! 😊
I have a hardwood mill gt34 Australian, I had a similar problem with blades breaking out side the log it was a brand new machine and it ended up being the band wheel bearings were faulty even though they felt good .
I also have to say love your channel , all the best from Australia 😊
Suggestion 1: Buy a couple more 5 gal diesel cans and keep them half full. Suggestion 2: Plan to fuel at mid-day every day, with that half a can of fuel, which will be a lot easier to hoist up there.
Check the blade tracking sometimes the bolts loosen to check the drive side you need the engine off and the blade engaged with no tension then see if the drive side wobbles when you shake it
I ran an industrial bandsaw in a machine shop 40yrs ago. It had a electric welding tool on the machine. Clamp em close..hit the switch.. buff smooth
if you have an hour meter you could keep track of that and get some of control on the fuel ,
also large logs take more horsepower than smaller logs that may be a difference in fuel consumption ,it's something to look at ,
watch the break if it's in the weld and still on the factory sharpen ,call them or send it back they should fix or replace it
One of my favorite channels on YT!!
Em, My family used to have some friends that lived in Costa Rica, and they would send us roasted coffee beans. After drinking that coffee and going back to domestic brands was like drinking mud.
God Bless from your Canadian Friend.
The blade breakage is definitely due to the welding process. I used a butt welding machine in Starretts and if the blades were not aligned exactly the weld was weakened. I used to test the welded blades on a reciprocating machine to determine the quality of the weld.
So on my LT 40 water tank I cut a neat hole in the top for an ABS shower drain with the drain flange in the tank and a female adapter on top with a threaded cap . Cut two sides flat on the ABS flange to get it in the tank and install with the rubber gasket. No more lifting tank full of water.
The reason blades break on band saws its because of the bearings that guide the blade are bad just replace them and the baldes will last a long time .. It was happening to my metal band saw and I found a video on line that showed how to replace them and it worked .
Omg those eyes!!
We had some not cut straight and binding in the log and that sucked!! It was an LT 70 Wide!
I work with precious metals at work and use a bandsaw for cutting on one casting machine of ours. I have had times where I will go thru several blades back to back. All breaking at or near the weld. Then all is good for a long time. Since I made no adjustment to tension I always assumed we would occasionally get a few bad blades in an order of new blades. It is like the metal just has a bad spot around the welds probably from the heat from the welding process. One time the company bought a batch of blades discounted to a cheaper price from the same company we always order from and every one broke in a short time.
The sound of power
from the disel engine
as it is revved up high,
the big blade's teeth go out of sight
and cuts through the log
like a piece of pie
The sawdust piles up
and the logs go down,
as Emerald and Jade
keeps the big saw blade
spinning around.
Good job girls.
Hello. I love your channel and the content. I got a new sawmill about the same time you guys did. The learning curve has been steep but working through some of the same issues. One of the last things I think about while sawing is fuel. I have not run out of diesel yet but have come close. With my old mill, I rarely broke blades. New mill: break several every week. So frustrating. As many videos as you ladies have, you should post one of a blade snapping and the process of removing the blade. 🪚🪚🪚
That is a good idea. Set the camera up and keep power to it till you get a picture of the blade snapping! The show how it is put on this mill.
Get a small Transfer pump. You can sometimes find 12V ones for transfer from tank to tank. Try one of those pumps that install on a drill. Try less tension on the blade and slower feed.
Mark those blades and hours and return to supplier. Possibly a bad batch. Your Butt will be fine!
One can install a float gauge. Fuel pumps are cheap and easy. Check Harbor Freight.
Try a different blade supplier, If you are using water to lube the blade add sssome cheap detergent. As for the fuel. Put the full containers in the bucket of the loader and lift to the height you need and slide them on. It saves you lifting. Great vid as usual.
One of the possibilities of the band failure is from heat stress. The blade is moving a lot quicker then the old 40. If you have a chance have someone hold a heat gun on the blade to see what the temperature is of the blade as it exits the wood. One of the things I hate is dispensing gas with these new government required safety fuel cans. I bought a small battery operated fuel pump. It pumps 2.2 gals. per minute. Seeing the fuel tank on the new mill is on top of the machine. Your going to have problems getting fuel in it by using 5 gallon cans. With the fuel pump you can put the can in the loader bucket and use the pump to tranfer the fuel.
I put my diesel in a 55 gallon plastic barrel, and have a hand-pump on it, with a hose like at a gas station. Works well, but I don't know if there is a place to put it next to the sawmill that would be safe from getting hit by a log or something.
One just uses another WoodMizer fuel tank for that machine. One takes the empty can off and puts the full can on. not filling the tank while on top with a fuel can.
After the lumber and the phone call... They're watching you! Always watching!
Use an indelibly pen where the weld is on the blade you use. You can see if the weld brakes as the pen mark will be each side of the break. Good luck and keep safe.
there is hope for the future, thank God, keep up the good work
I had the same problem and it was my blade was hitting on the rollers in the cut and it would snap the blade every time. I adjusted them back from the blade and never had a problem sense.
Nice, was afraid you found a tick 😅. Play and have fun 🎉
I remember back in Vo-Tech school. we had to weld the blades for our steel band saw. Once you welded the blade you let it cool for a few seconds and then you had to bring it back up to just before cherry red to anneal the welded area. if you didn't do it properly it would be too brittle and it would break at the weld.
The blade snapping problem is due to improperly annealed splice joint. When you join the blade together and send an electric current into it, it welds the metal together. When this happens the blade gets cherry red. You then let cool down. After it is cooled down you bring it back to a dull red for 5 to 10 seconds and let cool down (this is annealing). It sound like they are not annealing the blades properly ( joint is too brittal). I do not if this helps or not but I would run the tension at it normal recommended setting.😊
Some days are just full of Back and Butt pain...other days are a pain in the Neck.☹️
Time to hit the creek and cool it for a while...👍
My first thought is the blades are not made right but the tensioner may have a problem as well. As for the diesel a transfer pump is the answer. Your grandpa can fix you up. Little problems add up to a big nuisance. You can get an aftermarket fuel guage. Keep in contact with woodmizer to see if others are having the same issues. Excellent job ladies thank you for sharing.👍♥️♥️
Your customer with the disk issue is just representative of those folks that do real work for a living. The good news and bad news is that if they can still function, there is no major problem….even if there is one. An example of this is a 75 yr old friend of mine knew I was going to Lowe’s to pick up a load of 2x12s on the roof of my van. He said he was headed to the VA to see a doc about what he thought was a minor cough, and would stop by and help me. Help to him means doing more than his share of the work and afterwards he goes to the VA hospital. They put him in intensive care for a week with a serious pulmonary infection. Some of these folks won’t quit strenuous work until two weeks after they are pronounced deceased.
Hi Emerald and Jade If you google why does diesel amount vary in use you will find everything from dirty components, soot deposits on injectors, storage, age, whether it has been treated with biocides. As for a gauge you could use a small short brass tube through a small hole in the lid then a skewer with a cork on the end through the tube, the brass tube keeps the skewer straight.
The placment of the fuel tank seems odd but gravity plays a part. You need a stair case next to it to fuel up.
you can get a battery operated pump for the diesel tank here in canada we get them at princess auto
I’ll add that maybe not enough tension, if it’s hard against the guide rollers, and then release, it could whip. Tension gauge maybe displaying low.
What about adding a clear tube on the outside of your tanks that would show the fuel level? There may be an accessory to the connections from the manufacturer to show the level with a clear glass or plastic tube.
Tree sap may be building up on the drive wheels causing an non symmetrical pulling dynamic and tearing the blade from one side.
A simple fix for gas gauge rig up a led bulb on th top of tank, turn on and it will aluminate the inside of the tank.
we are on the same page!
If you have more than one box of blades try from a different box to see if problem goes away
Oh you girls will know all about disc trouble eventually if you keep up this type of work. I'm only 36 and have two bad discs since my late 20's. But you get on with it. Old boy loading up his truck was probably just used to it by now haha!
You can see the level through the tank.
I hope you are able to find the cause of the blades breaking soon. I mean let alone the down time and the expense of the blade those things are scary and dangerous.
I am happy to hear that Woodmizer has been notified and recognize a problem exists.
Have a great afternoon and an even better holiday weekend.😉
12 volt transfer pump, set extra tank in wheel barrow
As long as that saw rig isn't going to be moving around get a bigger remote tank and plum it into the line. If you went to salvage yard you might get a tank off a semi truck with the tank sending unit and mount a gauge on your saw control pod and wala gauge!
AH but the whole thing moves......
try a gas cap fuel gouge and a mirror on a extension..
If you add a clear tube up the side of the tank penetrating it at the botom, it will give you a gauge.
And for the fuel tank, keeping sawdust out of those tubes, get a couple of pieces of silicone tubeing that fits tight and put a plug in the other end and maybe a hose clamp or zip tie and your set to go easy peezy 🙃🙃
Hi check if the blades are from the same batch also check if there is anything under the v belts on blade wheels
Check the lot number on the blades to see if they came from the same manufacturer run. This could be a problem from the metal prep before welding. The blades are probably spot welded, and back in the day when I was a machinist we also found that the .metal the blades were manufactured from was often inconsistent. We solved the problem by brazing the blades instead of spot welding. If you did braze instead of spot weld you would have to setup the grinder for sharpening starting at the brazing joint each time you sharpened blades. That should not be a problem.
For the new blades before mounting them on the bandsaw, you may want to anneal the weld joint. To do that you'll need a propane torch. You heat the area of the weld joint until it turns a gun-blue color. Then immediately pour about a gallon of cold water on the heated area until it is cool to the touch. Normally you would drop an annealed metal part into a bucket of water or oil but you can't do that with a large bandsaw blade.
Get a (larger) custom tank welded up from aluminum with a guage. They make them for trucks and the like all the time.
I think they can make do. A high powered light shining on the tank will likely make it so one can see the fuel level.
I'd drill a hole in the bottom of the 'gas' tank then drill and tap it for a pipe thread. Install pieces of pipe to come out from the bottom and up the side of the tank. Then install a vertical (plastic) 'glass'. The diesel level in the glass will mirror the level in the tank.
Another, simple, option would be to buy a plastic gas tank for a boat. You can get them many sizes and shapes. Get one big enough to last an entire day. Then you only have to fill, from Dad's e-pump, once each day.
Along with other objections, it is not a good idea to add weight to mill head on this machine.
@@scottsoper Scott, the gas tank is already there. I'm not saying to add another tank - just use the gas tank for diesel. If you do use a plastic tank, remove steel gas tank. Either way you won't be adding any weight over the original gas tank.
@@laughton57 I did not explain well. I was focusing on the idea of a bigger fuel tank that would last the entire day. More fuel is more weight up on the mill head which I don't think is a good idea.
I don't like how the LT70 bounces up and down and jiggles around because of the weight of the diesel motor.
I wonder if it creates extra tension on the blade and that's what is making them break sooner?
I would love to see an all electric version of the LT woodmill. It would be great to eliminate all that weight from the motor
and fuel tank. And less maintenance too and fuel savings.
An electric motor making that bhp would be a heck,of a lump.
The wiggling we see has no effect on the tension of the blade.
they don't have power at that site,IIRC.
@@JayWye52I think I would be considering having a usefully sized diesel genny installed and then you could get rid of the myriad of gas and diesel engines powering everything. Three phase too for the big saw.
I don't know how you feel about modifications. but to add a float gauge would not be too difficult. just look up fuel tank float gauge and find one the appropriate size. it would only require you to cut a hole in the top of the tank to put it in.
Make some cheap indicator 2 brass fittings, and a piece of clear hose, one fitting on the top one on the bottom, the hose in between.
Hi Lumber Capital Log Yard & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Lumber Capital Log Yard & Friends Randy
Get a digital thermometer and check the blade temp then find out what the manufacturers temp tolerance is supposed to be for it.
The factory welds may not have been done properly and, after heating up during the cut, are weakened from the heat. This leads to snapping after your cut because it’s cooling down and the weld is contracting, weakening it further and making it snap.
This!
Try running the saw a bit slower and using more cooling water. Blades break when they overheat.
Well for one I really think you guys are great beautiful eyes by the way love watching you ladies and the talks that you have wanted to comment on the blade yeah I think it's just getting too hot maybe it's the cool-down process with the water as well as a lot more power behind that machine putting more torque on the blade and yeah you're right that machine moves fast so that could be a combination of it as well just the blade getting so hot so fast thanks for all your info ladies bye for now😂
When blade comes out of the log, when? Seconds? Temperature balancing? Harmonic vibrations from no load in combination with the contraction from cooling. Blade tension, less can cause oscillation and vibration when blade is unloaded.
You should be able to setup a large tank down closer to the ground with a vehicle fuel pump up to the intake that runs on DC(battery) or via a inverter. Once you get up to a larger sized tank you might be able to have the diesel delivered instead of having to haul it yourself.
No need for all that.
You can put your own site tube in the fuel tank with parts from the hardware store and you install it right buy the filler neck and for the part where you have trouble with filling the water or fuel use a machine with forks and a Palit or bucket to lift you up so it's not so difficult 😉 ❤
Or just use a platform ladder. Use a high beam headlight shining on the top of the tank. Should light it up enough to see the fuel level through the yellow plastic.
You could have some sawdust sticking to the blade wheels, or a sharp high place like some piece of metal, or a bump, or some crud on the wheels. You might check the blade at the weld for a smooth surface on both sides and for any defects in the weld before you put it on.
Thanks for the wonderful information as always love smell freshly cut wood thanks so much
Talk to Nathan at Out of the Woods. He has been running a LT70 for a while.
Add a sight tube to the fuel cells.
In the old days we would fuel and check the oil every day it's called maintenance
Dear Scott, I think I understand that several blades have broken, and personally, I find that the log saw control is placed upside down, (which can also cause the blade to break) for the simple reason that Emerald does not see the precise moment when the cutting begins. Therefore, it enters the wood too quickly and gives a severe shock to the blade. Reversing the control station could only be beneficial and would increase accuracy, blade life and even working speed. I say this as an old man's advice, because you alone are the boss. I wish you an excellent continuation, and may God bless you all.
There could be Stress fracture in the weld and the best way is if Woodmizer did the stress check at the factory if there not doing that well it could be bad if somebody got injured by one of there blades
Ya'll are awesome! Thanks for the vid!
As for the diesel better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it and Grandpa was right the first place you should have looked was at the weld and you Irish girls are the prettiest 🤠🐝
I ran Woodmizers 30 years ago and had this same issue with a batch of new blades, all broke at the weld. I don't think it's anything you are doing wrong unless you are trying to power through too fast. It is either a bad welder or a bad batch of steel.
I don't know if you can have Woodmizer track down the batch number and see if anyone else is having premature breakage. Happy Sawing
The weld point is the least flexible and most brittle part of the blade. If it is breaking on that point constantly it is getting metal fatigue. I wounder if there is a heat process that may help this.
What if you fill the tank in the morning before you start, fill it right after you come back from lunch, fill it at quitting time when you clean oil, and grease before you go home. My guess would be your power feed is too fast for the blade speed. But, I have only run my band mill with manual feed, so I would not know. I do know, you don't need quite so much shiny stuff to look nice. God gave you good looks, Hope you find a nice hubby.
They usually replace them if they break at the weld . You should not be seeing wear on the back of your rollers . The wheels might need a little tweaking
Others also suggested it but I would put a sight glass on tour tanks since you always use the same ones. You can get snap in or screw in fittings for your plastic tanks to carry a clear polycarbonate pipe so you can see the diesel level. Polycarbonate will withstand reasonably rough treatment. The other option is a float gauge - you would have to fabricate your own since I doubt they make one for a small tank like that. Piece of PVC pipe that will fit in the top opening with a smaller diameter piece that can slide inside it filled with foam and containing a slim aluminum rod. Mark the rod with red tape at 20% intervals.
or just shine a bright light in the tank. If the light is bright enough, it is likely that you will be able to see the fuel level.
keep at it lumberjane
It's warm enough for daisy dukes , thank you sun.
I got the coffee !!!!!!
You may be able to splice in a tee and attach a clear tygon hose and run it up along the diesel container. Grandpa can figure that one out. Also does sound like manufacturing defects in the blades.