Disgusting 1950s RS3 Gets Painted - But There's a Twist
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2022
- A few weeks ago I worked on getting this disgusting RS3 locomotive from the 50s running again and after many hours of disassembling and cleaning I finally got it going again. Today I thought it was time for this locomotive to finally receive some fresh paint, originally the plan was to give it a great northern paint scheme however I figured this would be tricky so I decided to go with Canadian National instead. However, at the same time I found a great northern RS3 online so I picked it up as another project as well.
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Your railroad isn’t the most detailed, but it has probably the most heart of any layout I’ve ever seen, to repair all these presumably lifeless engines and rolling stock and give them another life is amazing, keep it up
Beauty! Now just a little weathering to cover the bobbles😊👍
As always a grand job in rebuilding , rehabilitating, detailing most of all painting this beautiful RS 3 CN Diesel to a running order. Don't worry about the current drawn many vintage trains from the 1950's into the 1970's drew a lot of current. After your presentation i will be running my RS 3 CN engine only it's an ATHEARN version. This video is 100% inspiring to me as your viewer & fellow model railroader. As always my pleasure watching and learning from you Harrison.
Harold CN/ GT RAILROAD.
That is a good looking switcher Wizard Harrison another great restoration.👍👌🇨🇦😎
Looks fine. I keep learning every day on things such as this. I have been scratch building cars out of wood. I started teaching myself on an old Binkley boxcar kit. I hope you are having fun. That's the main reason for having a hobby. I enjoy all of your videos.
Another locomotive revived. A super video. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Thanks
Nice job recovering that "junk in a box" into a running and good looking locomotive.
I want to thank you very much your videos inspired me to rebuild my Lionel 2026 post-war engine worked out well. I struggled a few times but I've managed to get it running again serenity.
That's awesome
I think I would have used a decal for that CN lettering. But what guys do who want to mask intricate things like this is lay out their masking tape on a clean flat piece of glass, and cut the design there, then peel and apply to what's being painted.
I would have used decals but I wasn't sure where to get them for this locomotive.
If you're worried about sheen or the paint job looking a bit rough, then just give it a weathering job with some chalks. Remember that Alcos produced enough exhaust to make them honorary steam engines, so they got dirty
to even out paint jobs clear overcoats can be sprayed on.
Nice work... now 2 great RS3s! Thanks. T4
Runs nice and smooth. And reasonably quiet for a locomotive from that era!
If you are happy with it, it matters not what other folks say. It came out looking pretty good over-all. Well done Sir. I love yor channel. I have learned quite a few tricks from you. Your enthusiasm is a shot in the arm for me! Thank you!
Looks good Harrison! Keep up the great work!
great job harrison,dont worry too much about the finish,a working loco gets pretty weathered in use, looks realistic,nice one .jpj
That's true, maybe I should had some dust effect to play it up.
Great work, SMT! I too have been curious about using gel pens for small details like the grab irons.
These ones seem to work well. I believe they are washable too which isn't good for cleaning but is good if you make a mistake.
On connecting your drive sections, take your worm gear or flywheel to an r/c shop and get a package of fuel line. If done it with a couple of my brass locomotives and works really well.
I will have to have a look for some fuel line.
You could give it a shot of Testors dull coat to even the paint out. Nice job!
I concur. Nicely done. Runs smooth. Hit it with some dullcote (can even use the cheap stuff from craft store) and it’ll even out and look more “real”.
I probably will just to give it a more "finished" look
@@SMTMainline It really does look amazing from where it started. It runs good for its vintage, too. Don’t take the comments as negative. Good job!
@@jdmills4370 I don’t see them has negative. There is room for improvement and this is good advice :)
I am only now starting to paint my locomotives now that I settled on a great paint stripper that is perfectly safe for plastics. I highly recommend getting Super Clean to strip paint from plastics! It comes in a purple one gallon jug for around $10 to $12USD the last time I looked. You can make it last longer if you water it down a little. Of course that means it will take longer to work but that is no problem since it works kinda fast at full strength about 2 to 3 hours at full strength depending on the paint type.
Anyway I am starting out slow painting. I am painting some New York Central and Union Pacific steam locomotives first. Why? Because they are usually almost all black! Almost no masking to worry about! You did great with your paint job!
As a GN fan myself, at least you tried. Though you got lucky finding a GN RS3, let alone a HobbyTown model.
Great Northern had one of the best paint schemes I've ever seen but it's not a simple one so I figured it would be tricky.
Change the cabs of two CN Dash 9's to 4-Window Canadian Wide Cab. First batch(2500-2522) has this unique cab.
Looks plenty good to me there Harrison. A little Dullcote and some light weathering and she'll be fine but also remember we're our own worst critics as we know each and every minor flaw and blow them out of proportion in our own heads..
Always loved that livery on the GT SD40s.
Thanks for the advice, I think I will add some dull clear coat just to balance the shiny parts out.
Good job, enjoyed the video. Hoping to pick up a Hobbytown RS3 for myself and do the same thing.
Who would have thought? Your daring revision of your original idea turned out really well. You have given me the confidence to consider repainting some of my used purchases. Keep up the good work!
To make it look like new try this. 1. Paint the color of the letters you want it to be. 2. use your stencil to on really good painters tape to create a pattern and cut the numbers out of and stick them on the engine. 3. paint the engine the color you want. 4. remove the taped on numbers to reveal the white under color you painted the engine. 5. spray with polyurethane .
Impressive layout! I really wish I still had my BN loco and freight cars.
It looks good enough. I have four ES-44's for my collection and I really like the paint scheme of CN. They go through my town and I'm always happy to see them.
Well Done! You did a Good Job on your ALCO RS3.
Nicely Done Harrison ...... SERENITY!!!!! 😁👍
I do like the CN on it. It is very bold & it stands from the rest of the locomotive
Respect the stencils but micro scale decals are better. Dull coat the loco and it will equalize the luster
I'm sure they are but I wasn't sure where to get some for this model.
Wow you did do a nice paint job on your C N. Train I also love all of the videos on fixing the trains you are super good. 🏆🚞 Ps. Keep up the good work.
Love the custom work!
well done Sir what a great transformation.... loved this video... your paint job was cool too... Neil
Awesome! Looks like an RS3 that just pulled out of the shops in the 50s! You should have made the red paint like a light pink to make it look like a very old engine with faded paint if you wanted it to look old.
You can still buy the part you need from Hobbytown rather than the "bound to always be breaking heat shrink tubing". Not very expensive. The little pole sticking up in front of the flywheel (with the slot in it) is meant to guide wires over the flywheel.
Awesome restoration! Keep up with more vids like this
Looks brand new, great job
Really smart removing that overspray with the marker
Couldn't think of any other way to improve it
Awesome job! Looks great!
Great job looks great
Great job, I like the slightly rough condition, nothing wrong with that.
That great northern is identical to the one on display down the street from the site of the ALCO factory in Schenectady, New York. That has number 402.
That's awesome
SMT - As many modelers have pointed out, the prototype rolling stock can have " patches " of new paint on the old weather-beaten paint. And using light weathering & Dull Cote will even out the finish. An example is the Great Northern green having the olive shade when new; then it fades to a chocolate brown shade over time.
I love it - great job. And while the modern RTR, Made in China stuff from Athearn, Rapido, Atlas, Bachmann, etc., may be more detailed and accurate, their plastic gears will never last as long as the metal ones in the drive of this classic Hobbytown model.
If I could restore old locos that well, I'd never leave the house.
Nice job SMT! I love the CN scheme, suits the engine well
Interesting quick and dirty techniques. I thought you would have treated the back of the CN mask with some sort of spray on adhesive to improve adhesion and prevent the mist that gets under the mask. In my case, if I used paint pens, I would end up over spraying with a flat finish and find that the solvent makes the paint pen run......this is always my nightmare on a finished model. I came across a partially complete Hobbytown RS3 in storage that is now begging for completion now.
A layer of matt clear will take the shine off it and can help a lot.
Great resurrection!!!
Great job Harrison.
I'm currently redoing an old Kato RS3 my self, currently repainting it to my fictitious RR.
That's the first time I've ever seen truck covers that screw on! That's some find, Harrison!!! That's also an interesting use of a box cutter - I never thought of that one before. And what did you do with the GN unit - use it for spare parts? That all being said - damned fine work!!!
Thanks. This locomotive certainly does have some strange details.
Awesome paint job!
One slight criticism. The fore and aft stack indicates it was equipped with an air-cooled GE turbocharger, which was a disaster. This was virtually universally replaced by a water-cooled turbo which went from side to side (was fatter side to side than fore and aft). I wonder if CN had any Alco's that were still unmodified when it adopted the Wet Noodle logo (not a herald, in my book). Still, you did an amazing job on what looked to be a wreck.
Excuse me, not Alco, but MLW
cool locomotive. this is the grandfather of our tem 2 and tem2u👍 these locomotives came to us in Russia on leasing after the Great Patriotic War
I hadn't ever heard that before, thanks for sharing.
Looks great! I'm currently re-building a proto 2000 santa fe sd40 into a CP rail sd40-2. I hope mine turns out as good as yours!
Best of luck :)
Weedeater fuel line is a good replacement for busted drivelines fits very tightly
Good work. You've got a nice loco there.
Nice paint job.
Really awesome! Too bad you didn’t paint it into the great northern but you made a success though with cn colors you chose. That’s also pretty awesome you got the great northern version as well!
If your worried about the way the paint sheen is you could get clear coat matte to help everything look the same and also to seal everything in
Awesome! Most people would have just written that one off and tossed it.
It took an awful lot to get it here but I'm happy with the results.
Thanks for sharing!!
Very commendable.
I think it looks good. Weathered. I’ve never seen a picture perfect engine on the rails
Congrats, nice job!!!
Use some Testors “dullcote” as a final overcoat; that’ll remove the uneven sheen - just do any weathering, first. Soon, 3022 will be the pride of your fleet.
Very steady hand on the CN logo and grab irons.
For that little shaft part you made with heat shrink you can go to your local hardware store or automotive store and buy a little bit of vinyl tubing and make sure it’s a little smaller then the shafts then slip it over them
Nice job smt really did good
Thanks
Good job, I think it turned out quit nicely.
I enjoyed this rebuild although your painting techniques look different for me but it works ,good job...
Great job! Don’t worry about the paint job, it gives it that weathered look! Also, the SP had the RS3’s as well in the Black Widow scheme! What type of paint did you use to paint it? Thank you!
Did you make those CN templates yourself?
I found the logo, scaled it down to fit and printed it off. It worked okay but it would probably work better with sticky paper.
Good work! What type of acrylic paint marker are you using? I like the way that went in and it might be useful when painting the ends of the stair steps on my locos.
as per usual your paint jobs look like a factory one
It's not perfect but thanks
Nice job for a quicky
Awesome job Harrison. Looks great running round the tracks. Really enjoyed this video. The other one you received looks awesome too. Looking forward to seeing you make it run as well. ❤😊❤
Thank you!
Now you need some KD couplers on there I had one in Rio grande livery by Atlas and also an S2
That's what it's got, they look great.
Yeah I found that out after I watched the rest of the video@@SMTMainline
That looks great!
Looks Great. Just a lil bit of paint can give it a new look
Looks great!
It looks great!
I personally think these home paint jobs look better, it sort of embraces the fact that it's a model and not 100% accurate
That looks amazing, maybe to hide the fact some bits aren’t perfect give it some light weathering, a technique I usually use on kits that don’t turn out 100%
Always wanted to weather mine. What do u use
@@paulschiska7638 monroe weathering powders and I sometimes use my air brush too, but the weathering powders are great, just make sure to clear coat them in with either a matt or semi gloss clear coat
I've been working on a Tyco Mantua GP-20 that's not running right. There might be a short somewhere, because it seems to be drawing too much power and the controller light flashes. When the locomotive is moving it's very choppy, but when I put leads directly to the trucks it moves just fine. The thing I find most confusing is that the back most wheel is sparking quite a bit, but the other wheel on the axel is isolated (made out of plastic, so it an’t be shorting that way). I have no idea why its doing any off this, as I've lubricated it and done basic servicing. Any ideas on what might be wrong? Thanks.
It isn't possible one of the wheels was placed opposite to the other on the same truck?
@@SMTMainline Thanks for the response. I checked it, and all the conductive wheels are on the correct side.(Front truck on the right, rear truck on the left) I don’t think anybody has been into the trucks before because none of the rivets have been drilled out.
With where you put the heat shrink tubing for the coupling and it keeps breaking.. how about using some rubber tubing like fuel hose for RC models or lawnmowers, I have used this idea for many couplings on my RC model boats and it works fine.
I might just do that. A few people suggested heat shrink tubing but it seems to tear really easy.
Nice a great northern
That turned out great!
That reminds me, I got some very old locomovite's that need cosmetic repairs too.
Now quick question, are those paint markers you used? If so how much were they?
They’re metallic markers, I think they were $15.
Hello what is that white fine tip pen you are using for the line details... Thank you I am enjoying your videos.... Very interesting and great hobby...
Once again a tired, old locomotive ready for the breaker's torch is sent over to SMT Restorations Inc and soon said loco is rebuilt, repainted and returned to operation in revenue service. She is ready for local and yard jobs. Outstanding work!
Thanks a bunch!
Nice job smt mainline
Hi Harrison
I am enjoying watching your videos I'm new to the hobby and I'm trying to figure out what you are using for the power and the unit that shows the drop in voltage I believe that's what you say any help with this would be greatly appreciated I only have dc locomotives so far and only a few I picked up at thirt shops and finding out most don't run but it's a start thank you for your help.
This gives me more confidence to paint my own locos. Couple questions, how did you get the stencil for the CN logo? And are there any methods you would suggest?
He made the stencil out of paper
you can also buy commercial decals.
@@suppylarue220 yeah from micro scale or other brands
I found the logo, scaled it down and printed it, then it was simply a matter of cutting it out. This would probably work best with some kind of sticky paper.
@@SMTMainline neat
Absolutely Great Job I like it restore those old Buggers!!! I Say!! LI NY!!
200 ft from my front door the freight trains rumble by both directions 5-6 times a day and I have get to see one that is perfect paint wise . They are all sooted up and bleached out making yours looking more realistic than the shiny examples you have fresh from factory finish . Black wash the cn lettering you put on giving it a light soot coating would complete the look you want . "put some coal cars behind it for added realism.
a bit of authenticity is using actual loco numbers. CN rs3s were numbers 7830 to 7847 and 1818 to 1840 as delivered.
rc airplane fuel line makes great drive shaft couplers like the one you broke
I love how you did this. The way the paint looks is how im thinking they would re number a locomotive from another railroad to the cn on a budget and fits it perfectly. Now you have 2 of these that is awesome.