Thanks for all of the kind comments. Happy to report that the jeep continues to run and start great. Don't be scared of getting into your distributor! If you get lost, send me an email to sales@portrayal.com and I'll get on the phone with you and we'll getter' done!
just ran across this well educated jeep video. i purchased a 1952 Willys CJ3A with the GO DEVIL L134 engine just few days ago. Its been my ream to own one my whole life. im 79 now but never too late to see my dream come true. Thanks again for your clear and insightful tutoring. Bob
OUTSTANDING Bob - congratulations! Never too late for sure...I hope you have a blast with the jeep. We helped a buddy buy a CJ-3A last summer...great machine so we know it pretty well. Ping us if you run into any challenges and we would be delighted to help you out.
Thank you Sir! Follow your video to the tee. 6 volt with point distributor. Fired up the first time! Awesome 👌 1949 Lozan Red cj3a. Tossed the prestolite distributor & bought a points distributor from Kaiser Willys! Love it!!!!
Came looking for how to remove a stuck distributor. Left knowing that I need to pull mine apart and check the mechanical advance! Very well done episode sir, great Jeep!
Hola, ahora sabes? como quitar el distribuidor...aún no lo he podido sacar!, hay algún modo en particular? o solo sale moviendolo de izquierda a derecha y golpeando hacia arriba...; me estoy por rendir....Gracias, saludos.
I do not want to nitpick a good video but the reason that the timing needs to advance with speed is not because of an electrical delay, but the speed of the fuel burn rate which does not change. At low speed, the expansion of the combustion exerts pressure on the piston and pushes it down. At the higher speed, the piston is on its way down before the combustion is complete, so the combustion needs to start earlier which what the advance mechanism does.
Great information and very well presented. I just finished rehabbing my distributor using this info and now my 1950 CJV35 is running like a champ. Thank you!
Awesome Ross! Congrats and glad the video helped! To me, it is one of the greatest feelings in the world to successfully diagnose and repair these machines! Enjoy your jeep!
Thank you Eddie - we had a little warming trend and saw 50 degrees for a couple of days. The next week all of the highs are in the mid 40's - loving it!
That make me very happy to hear Motor - one of my biggest goals with this channel is to demystify "it all" and convince folks that they can....Many thanks for taking the time to comment and Happy New Year!
Thanks Willys. As you may know, condensors are capacitors and the function in this case is to reduce the likelihood that the points burn and give a little more juice to the coil and therefore a little more spark. Although condensors/capacitors do weaken, they tend to be binary - ie work or not work. Since I was getting good spark, I did not change the condensor. Hope that helps!
Great video, really well done Pat! One of the best mechanicing TH-cams i have seen. And appreciate the music as well. I have similar problem with my 1950 CJ3A, which has a later-model F-134. Starts/idles just fine, purrs really. But as soon as you try to get out of 1st, or pull a slight incline, it sputters and has no power. I just rebuilt the Carter YF carb, replaced worn sparkplugs. I think now i need to pull the entire Distributor (if i can) and check out those weights to see if they are free (assuming my motor has same system as your L-head). I also replaced points/condenser/cap, but haven't tried to start yet as I am also doing some rewiring right now (due to a short). -Steve in Montana
Welcome aboard Steven and thank you very much for the kind words! For as simple as these motors are, it can really be a head scratcher to get them running just right. I am not super familiar with the F heads but I recall that some? had distributors with vacuum advance. Definitely a more refined system than the weights.... One thing to check when they sputter like that is whether you have the metering rod set correctly in that carb. Sounds a little like you are starving for gas....I would try to raise up the metering rod a bit and see if that stops the stumble.
@@Portrayalpress Good call, Patrick! My F-134 came w/ a Carter YF 964S carb...which i think was original to some CJ3Bs...but most had YF 938's (the 964 was mostly a Stovebolt carb.). Alas, mine has no way to adjust the metering rod. So a replacement carb might be in order, for several reasons. I do have a replacement metering rob w/ larger jet orifice i can try. I groom Nordic ski trails for my community here. A few years ago i almost bought a Weasel that had been converted for that purpose, w/ a Chevy V8 motor. Such a groovy yet historic vehicle, wish i'd'a bot it. One of my favorite WW2 vehicles, next to the Half-Track.
@@stevenkloetzel920 I do love 'em Steven! They are just funky, cool little machines. I can't really picture the 964 carb....one thing I run into a lot though is gummy passages...particularly in like the "economy" circuit....they clog up and it makes the vehicle run just lean enough that it hesitates. I take a guitar string and air and make sure I get them all open - usually does the trick.
I'm pretty sure you don't have a Sun distributor testing rig in your garage so you can see where the points are firing at 90 degrees from each other. Did that in high school and saw that I had worn cam lobes on he distributor. Old school stuff. Nice looking period correct rig.
You know I have been eyeing a few of these...they come up for sale pretty often actually and are not terribly expensive. My biggest challenge is where to put one...although if I ever actually cleaned my shop, I might find the space....
Sorry for the slow response David. Yes...but the marks are a little hard to see because there is lots of stuff in the way and the inspection hole is kinda tucked back in there. Mirrors help.
@@Portrayalpress If you line up IGN on the flywheel once that is done couldn't you just use a white paint pen and paint a line on the pulley and timing chain cover ?
@@Portrayalpress replaced everything but still did not run perfect. The shaft was out of round so I replaced the whole thing with a new solid state electronic ignition distributor. All problems solved looks great, runs great all RPMs.
Always tough to diagnose virtually, but if you have 12 volts at the one side of the coil, the problem is distributor. Check the points but turning on the ignition and using a screwdriver to open the points....you should see a spark when it. If you don't, then make sure the lead from the coil to the distributor is not grounding out on something like the body of the distributor - they screw/post to which is attached is insulated. If you have power to points, then the problem is likely from the rotor to the spark plugs. I start by pulling the main lead from the coil to the distributor on the distributor side and holding it close to a good ground - an engine head bolt for example. Turn the engine over - you should get a good jumping blue spark. If you don't, then recheck the condenser and the points. Make sure the point gap is correct and tight. If you had spark before you started replacing things, then reinstall the old condenser....they are generally poorly made these days. If you do have spark, reinstall the main lead and check a spark plug...should be live. If it is not, then either the rotor, the cap or the lead wires are bad. Usually it is the rotor/cap combo. Good luck.
Very nice work but may I make one suggestion. To you and the others who have taken the time to video your work. Could you please show us a shot of what bolt or screw that you’re taking out? There’s not much room in there and lighting is at a premium. Just point at it with a screwdriver before you get your hands in the way. And try to focus the camera .
Great project Scott. My best advice is get started....we are wrapping up a 1943 Willys that we started in August of 2022 and it is Feb 2023 - in the shop every week for at least 4 or 5 hours, making ShopTime™ episodes and restoring that jeep ;-)
I need help troubleshooting grounded wire somewhere, my solenoid nut and wires are getting hot and then smokes. 4-cylinder Hercules engines with a Hobart generator. 6 volts, it is a flathead engine. Now,are metal video if you want a better understanding of what I'm talking about. The fuse box on the side of the generator. The lever where you push in and out for the fuse box to take load on a generator with the two twist and fuses. I thought that might have been the issue 😒, or the outlet to plug a fan in or a might have been the issue of something being grounded.cuz ever since I started messing with the electrical part and I plug my battery back in my cell annoyed started smoking from the nut and wire. I remind you, that the toggle switch is loose and wobbles all over the place. Maybe it's getting grounded out from there. Or my distributor? When I take the cap off my distributor seems to be slightly greasy inside there. And I thought the plants were stuck open. Let me remind you. I disconnected all fuses replaced outlet. And disconnected again all wirings for a possible grounded out issue in the ignition coil still gets hot and smokes. I'm waiting on a new on and off toggle switch. If that is not my issue what could be possibly making my ignition coil getting hot?
I would start by checking the voltage at the distributor. Many of these systems can run a bunch of different voltages. I would guess you miswired the coil and have more than 6 volts going to it. If the motor is running, there is nothing (major) wrong with the distributor.
Ur jeep is also missing when press gas. I think u should probably change your distributor.. and probably dont press the starter motor that long otherwise it'll burn
Thanks for watching and your reply. If you watch until the end of the video the jeep is running great. The motor is not warmed up in either the first start (around 6:00 in video) or the second start (around 13:00). It was about 23 degrees F - so it takes a few minutes for everything to get up to operating temperatures and run correctly. The mechanical advance on the distributor was gummed up - it is working correctly by the end of the video and all is good! Keep Jeepin'!
Thanks for all of the kind comments. Happy to report that the jeep continues to run and start great. Don't be scared of getting into your distributor! If you get lost, send me an email to sales@portrayal.com and I'll get on the phone with you and we'll getter' done!
just ran across this well educated jeep video. i purchased a 1952 Willys CJ3A with the GO DEVIL L134 engine just few days ago. Its been my ream to own one my whole life. im 79 now but never too late to see my dream come true. Thanks again for your clear and insightful tutoring. Bob
OUTSTANDING Bob - congratulations! Never too late for sure...I hope you have a blast with the jeep. We helped a buddy buy a CJ-3A last summer...great machine so we know it pretty well. Ping us if you run into any challenges and we would be delighted to help you out.
Thank you Sir! Follow your video to the tee. 6 volt with point distributor. Fired up the first time! Awesome 👌
1949 Lozan Red cj3a. Tossed the prestolite distributor & bought a points distributor from Kaiser Willys! Love it!!!!
And for some strange reason, that is my dream 'car' - I just love the sound of a Jeep (proper WW2 Jeep that is!).
They are awesome!
July 2023 Thank you for sharing Patrick. I found your video very informative and helpful.👍🇬🇧
Greetings John. Thank you for the kind comment - glad the video was helpful.
Came looking for how to remove a stuck distributor. Left knowing that I need to pull mine apart and check the mechanical advance! Very well done episode sir, great Jeep!
Thanks for stopping by Dirt Road - glad the video was helpful! Drive them jeeps!
Hola, ahora sabes? como quitar el distribuidor...aún no lo he podido sacar!, hay algún modo en particular? o solo sale moviendolo de izquierda a derecha y golpeando hacia arriba...; me estoy por rendir....Gracias, saludos.
I do not want to nitpick a good video but the reason that the timing needs to advance with speed is not because of an electrical delay, but the speed of the fuel burn rate which does not change. At low speed, the expansion of the combustion exerts pressure on the piston and pushes it down. At the higher speed, the piston is on its way down before the combustion is complete, so the combustion needs to start earlier which what the advance mechanism does.
Thank you Colin - I most definitely goofed on that one!
Great information and very well presented. I just finished rehabbing my distributor using this info and now my 1950 CJV35 is running like a champ. Thank you!
Awesome Ross! Congrats and glad the video helped! To me, it is one of the greatest feelings in the world to successfully diagnose and repair these machines! Enjoy your jeep!
Great explanation, Patrick, Stay warm
Thank you Eddie - we had a little warming trend and saw 50 degrees for a couple of days. The next week all of the highs are in the mid 40's - loving it!
Portrayal Press great, it’s going to be 68 in Eastern Ky today and tomorrow, lovin’ it
Thanks for this very clear and helpful video. Much less intimidated to have a look at my 3a distributor after this.
That make me very happy to hear Motor - one of my biggest goals with this channel is to demystify "it all" and convince folks that they can....Many thanks for taking the time to comment and Happy New Year!
hi there nice old jeep john
Thanks! Was a lot of fun to restore it!
Pat...it'd be great to see a tear down, replace and rebuild tutorial of this distributor if you have a spare one to do a video on.
There isn't too much to them. I will definitely put it on the list of videos "to do" but it may be a while my friend.
Great vid - I seem to have the same problem. I will give this a shot. Did you replace the condensor? (or did I miss that in the vid?)
Thanks Willys. As you may know, condensors are capacitors and the function in this case is to reduce the likelihood that the points burn and give a little more juice to the coil and therefore a little more spark. Although condensors/capacitors do weaken, they tend to be binary - ie work or not work. Since I was getting good spark, I did not change the condensor. Hope that helps!
Nice video! I am just restoring (or rather conserving) my 3rd old Jeep. This is going to be useful for tweaking the distributor!
Great video, really well done Pat! One of the best mechanicing TH-cams i have seen. And appreciate the music as well. I have similar problem with my 1950 CJ3A, which has a later-model F-134. Starts/idles just fine, purrs really. But as soon as you try to get out of 1st, or pull a slight incline, it sputters and has no power. I just rebuilt the Carter YF carb, replaced worn sparkplugs. I think now i need to pull the entire Distributor (if i can) and check out those weights to see if they are free (assuming my motor has same system as your L-head). I also replaced points/condenser/cap, but haven't tried to start yet as I am also doing some rewiring right now (due to a short). -Steve in Montana
Welcome aboard Steven and thank you very much for the kind words! For as simple as these motors are, it can really be a head scratcher to get them running just right. I am not super familiar with the F heads but I recall that some? had distributors with vacuum advance. Definitely a more refined system than the weights.... One thing to check when they sputter like that is whether you have the metering rod set correctly in that carb. Sounds a little like you are starving for gas....I would try to raise up the metering rod a bit and see if that stops the stumble.
@@Portrayalpress Good call, Patrick! My F-134 came w/ a Carter YF 964S carb...which i think was original to some CJ3Bs...but most had YF 938's (the 964 was mostly a Stovebolt carb.). Alas, mine has no way to adjust the metering rod. So a replacement carb might be in order, for several reasons. I do have a replacement metering rob w/ larger jet orifice i can try.
I groom Nordic ski trails for my community here. A few years ago i almost bought a Weasel that had been converted for that purpose, w/ a Chevy V8 motor. Such a groovy yet historic vehicle, wish i'd'a bot it. One of my favorite WW2 vehicles, next to the Half-Track.
@@stevenkloetzel920 I do love 'em Steven! They are just funky, cool little machines. I can't really picture the 964 carb....one thing I run into a lot though is gummy passages...particularly in like the "economy" circuit....they clog up and it makes the vehicle run just lean enough that it hesitates. I take a guitar string and air and make sure I get them all open - usually does the trick.
I have a 51 CJ3A And it is cutting out really bad at high speeds also doesnt idol that great I’m thinking this might be my problem as well
Give a call tomorrow if you have a moment...855-339-0382...happy to think through it with you.
I think ground is good too, point and condenser are brand new, but still no spark
I'm pretty sure you don't have a Sun distributor testing rig in your garage so you can see where the points are firing at 90 degrees from each other. Did that in high school and saw that I had worn cam lobes on he distributor. Old school stuff. Nice looking period correct rig.
You know I have been eyeing a few of these...they come up for sale pretty often actually and are not terribly expensive. My biggest challenge is where to put one...although if I ever actually cleaned my shop, I might find the space....
To see if the mechanical advance is working can't you use a timing light and watch the mark move when you rev the engine ?
Sorry for the slow response David. Yes...but the marks are a little hard to see because there is lots of stuff in the way and the inspection hole is kinda tucked back in there. Mirrors help.
@@Portrayalpress If you line up IGN on the flywheel once that is done couldn't you just use a white paint pen and paint a line on the pulley and timing chain cover ?
@@frankporfidio9813 Yes...that is a fine idea!
Went through a very similar situation.
Assuming you got it straightened out?
@@Portrayalpress replaced everything but still did not run perfect. The shaft was out of round so I replaced the whole thing with a new solid state electronic ignition distributor. All problems solved looks great, runs great all RPMs.
I have willy's m38, no spark from point distributor, all have a power till coil, any basic idea to check distributor ?
Always tough to diagnose virtually, but if you have 12 volts at the one side of the coil, the problem is distributor. Check the points but turning on the ignition and using a screwdriver to open the points....you should see a spark when it. If you don't, then make sure the lead from the coil to the distributor is not grounding out on something like the body of the distributor - they screw/post to which is attached is insulated.
If you have power to points, then the problem is likely from the rotor to the spark plugs. I start by pulling the main lead from the coil to the distributor on the distributor side and holding it close to a good ground - an engine head bolt for example. Turn the engine over - you should get a good jumping blue spark. If you don't, then recheck the condenser and the points. Make sure the point gap is correct and tight. If you had spark before you started replacing things, then reinstall the old condenser....they are generally poorly made these days.
If you do have spark, reinstall the main lead and check a spark plug...should be live. If it is not, then either the rotor, the cap or the lead wires are bad. Usually it is the rotor/cap combo.
Good luck.
Buon giorno... mi potrebbe dire la misura dello spessore del contatto del distributore?? Dopo lo converto in mm ...
Very nice work but may I make one suggestion. To you and the others who have taken the time to video your work. Could you please show us a shot of what bolt or screw that you’re taking out? There’s not much room in there and lighting is at a premium. Just point at it with a screwdriver before you get your hands in the way. And try to focus the camera .
Thank you for the comment. Filming is tough work, but we will continue to try and improve! Thanks for watching.
I have a 1948 CJ2A willys L head i had it since 2000 still not together yet i want to buy a new tub n all the all parts that go's with it...
Great project Scott. My best advice is get started....we are wrapping up a 1943 Willys that we started in August of 2022 and it is Feb 2023 - in the shop every week for at least 4 or 5 hours, making ShopTime™ episodes and restoring that jeep ;-)
Nice jeep! You are correct... Ur timing is awfully out, its cz of ur distrubutor and maybe ur distribution points.
Thanks for the info
Merry Christmas to you and your family. Hope your not out in the garage.
Merry Christmas Craig! No garage today!!😂. Thanks for all of your support!
Portrayal Press I am doing all that I can. Multiple watches, easy to do, always a like and try for more than one comment. Always something to ask.
I need help troubleshooting grounded wire somewhere, my solenoid nut and wires are getting hot and then smokes. 4-cylinder Hercules engines with a Hobart generator. 6 volts, it is a flathead engine. Now,are metal video if you want a better understanding of what I'm talking about. The fuse box on the side of the generator. The lever where you push in and out for the fuse box to take load on a generator with the two twist and fuses. I thought that might have been the issue 😒, or the outlet to plug a fan in or a might have been the issue of something being grounded.cuz ever since I started messing with the electrical part and I plug my battery back in my cell annoyed started smoking from the nut and wire. I remind you, that the toggle switch is loose and wobbles all over the place. Maybe it's getting grounded out from there. Or my distributor? When I take the cap off my distributor seems to be slightly greasy inside there. And I thought the plants were stuck open. Let me remind you. I disconnected all fuses replaced outlet. And disconnected again all wirings for a possible grounded out issue in the ignition coil still gets hot and smokes. I'm waiting on a new on and off toggle switch. If that is not my issue what could be possibly making my ignition coil getting hot?
I would start by checking the voltage at the distributor. Many of these systems can run a bunch of different voltages. I would guess you miswired the coil and have more than 6 volts going to it. If the motor is running, there is nothing (major) wrong with the distributor.
Ur jeep is also missing when press gas. I think u should probably change your distributor.. and probably dont press the starter motor that long otherwise it'll burn
Thanks for watching and your reply. If you watch until the end of the video the jeep is running great. The motor is not warmed up in either the first start (around 6:00 in video) or the second start (around 13:00). It was about 23 degrees F - so it takes a few minutes for everything to get up to operating temperatures and run correctly. The mechanical advance on the distributor was gummed up - it is working correctly by the end of the video and all is good!
Keep Jeepin'!
Call me