These products might help you with your wiring repairs. Large shrink fit butt connectors - amzn.to/2Vvt9nJ Medium shrink fit butt connectors - amzn.to/2Vvnq1n The crimpers I use - amzn.to/2XxgbaV Heat gun with shrink tube attachment - amzn.to/2C11dRo The test light I use - amzn.to/2Vo31LA Jacketed duplex wire 14/2 - amzn.to/2XsVcq1
The black substance in the bulkhead connector is an anti-corrosion paste they used back in the day. I have found it all the way back into 50's vintage vehicles. I hear you about doing electrical on vehicles especially tail end wiring. Between corrosion, old wires, tape jobs, line taps, extension cord wire, house wire and wire nuts it can be Nightmare on Elm Street part 99 the never ending saga. Under hood I believe some of the issues are related to heat, "salt" spray (usually the cause of corrosion), oil leaks and vibration if the sending units are good. Kudo's to you for the tenacity to find the problem. Keep up the good work.
"When's the last time you saw a vehicle with glass fuses?" Yesterday, running a load of corn to the elevator. What's amazing is how easy they still are to get at the parts store.
whoever is buying this truck from you is getting an incredible deal. no one else in the world puts as much effort as you do into making sure these old trucks work right.
That's because you never get your money back for work like this. It takes too much time. But, I like to have things working right when they leave my shop, even if it doesn't look good on the balance sheet.
@@WatchWesWork Clearing my back log of your videos so I'm kinda late to the party on this one. As far as the balance sheets go, it all depends on duration and scope. For this project and possibly 2019 the balance might be off but a couple of years down the line when the buyers are steady customers due to the trust they have for you and the quality of your work you will surely be in the black. It is refreshing to see a bit of old school honesty and ethics in a time when all is about the short term bottom line rather then quality and customer care.
This is good you can use the shop air compressor to maintain the air pumps pressure we guess it thinks things are all normal so you can test and work on it, that is a neat lesson here. PTO? Power Take off for hydraulics, just learning here? That truck needs a whole rewire huh. Weather has not been her friend. You reworked those rear wiring and light nicely great video we are feeling good about this service work. Thank you. Lance & Patrick.
*shudder* All the stuff in this video is exactly why I tell my family that I won't work on automotive electrical for love or money. I've seen people use regular grease instead of dielectric (silicone) grease in mating connectors, and it did get pretty waxy in a few years. Maybe over decades it turns to tar?
Great video about tracing and troubleshooting...never easy or fun! By the way, I think the clear part of the taillights goes on the bottom to help illuminate the ground when backing up.
thats how all my wiring repairs start and end.....hope its a quick easy fix and by the time i am happy with the repair, i have replaced or repaired a lot more than i wanted.
Some of that old truck wiring can be a real nightmare!. It's amazing how much a guy can figure out once he gets to know his test light. Nice video man well done
Great work on this old truck, nice to see someone doing the job correctly. The black sticky stuff, could have been pitch, as it was used as a means of waterproofing/insulation of connectors and used in cables. If it was that, it looks like it's degraded with age.
The REA I worked at had a bucket truck that got rear ended by a semi on the highway, the truck went off the road and rolled once, one of the linemen was throw out the window of the truck as it rolled. Everyone survived believe it or not, the semi driver said their tail lights were not working, who really knows. The truck was wired at a place that installed the bed and boom on the truck. From that day forward I made sure any wiring I touched was a first class job even to the point of welding small stainless steel bolts to attach ground wires to. Also I was coming home from work one day and I was following a pickup towing a boat, I could not see the tail lights on the truck and the trailer lights were not working, it was during the daytime. When I went to pass the guy then I saw the left blinker on his truck, I almost cleaned out the ditch trying to avoid hitting the truck that was turning left blocking the passing lane. Complete dumb ass, driving with out trailer lights and not bothering to look in his mirror before he turned left. So if you ask me if tail light wiring is important, you bet it is!
I have seen some nasty connectors I have cleaned connectors that people stuffed Antiseize in to the brim but wow never seen one that black with anything that looks like Tar that is crazy @Watch Wes Work
That Tar like substance is an old electrical isolator like dielectric grease. Ran into the same thing on a 69 Camaro and an ole timer told me it was a grease that's turned black with time. Could also be something someone put in there... who knows with something that old...
I’ve come across that tar like stuff in the control box of an IR DD32 roller. I have no idea what it was there for or what it was doing. Gotta love salt trucks, basically gotta rewire the whole back half every oil change in the winter.m
I've used "tarlike-stuff" in connectors before. It's a product from Gardner-Bender called OxGuard. It's made for preventing corrosion in aluminum/aluminum and aluminum/copper wire splices. I'm not sure whether I should use it this way or not, but i've filled up crusty connectors to help prevent them from getting worse.
Im a retired mechanic just so happens that I retired from work with IH I have seen that black goo a hundred times, I think it is a grease IH used from the factory that breaks down over time, and it doesn't take long either Brake clean will help break it down so its easier to clean fyi Thanks for the videos brings me back in time
Wes, I won the light bulb challenge, lucky guess, and the prize I imagine is the gloop in the firewall connector. Those Scotch connectors are money in the bank, you get paid for the quick fix and they will be back so you can charge again. They only care if you can fix it, not how you fix it. Some shops charge big bucks and they don't even fix it! Hope we get to see the old gal headed down the road and $$$ in your pocket.👍👍
I can't figure out how they are legal. They might be OK in the trunk of a Honda, but I can't believe they would include them with an exterior tail light for a commercial truck.
Old plow trucks are mostly all like this you have to be good at electrical theory and testing because lots of times you can't find wiring diagrams. Good job wes
Even if we had a diagram, it would just be for the chassis. That would help with the first issue, but not with anything on the dump box. The body installers do whatever they want to and usually they do it very poorly.
I'm Really Impressed , You Patiently Make Everything Work !!! Personally , I Would Rather Take A Good Beating Than Tangal With Those Wires , It's Like " Just Shoot Me Instead " Thumbs Up
You need a power probe for jobs like this! Maybe you have one? If not it time for a new tool! You will wonder how you every made it without it! I enjoy watching your videos!
They're ok to use on low voltage DC power systems in arcade and pinball games but definitely not on automotive vehicles and other items were weather can be a problem. Especially not on house wiring. By the way, I've been a electronics technitian on arcade and pinball games for 38 years so I know that if they're properly installed they're ok to use to add a wire to a circuit.
the glass fuses worked great when cars and trucks got power crazy it became what you saw wire arounds only second time ever seen inside the black wiring block all had that black stuff in them had 10 rock crusher transmissions too wheres my hammer
You are spot on with your accesment. You just have to know when to say enough is enough. Good job explaining the air system operations. As far as that black tar substance I've seen it before. It was common on aircraft that flew in salt water regions. Perhaps the shop guy was an old Army Air Corp mechanic and thought what the heck it worked on planes. I sure can't remember the name of it but I've seen it.
Newbie ro your channel. Ive watched a cpl of your videos and its clear to see you take pride in your work and do a great job.most people would of jury rigged the wiring if they knew they were reselling the truck.
Your talking crap about my 1980 international. same deal!....cant get turn signal on passenger side to work. You wouldnt happen to know where I can find a power steering reservoir for mine? Any help would be appreciated. Have searched the webz for months.
Wes, for tracing automotive wiring a 2 piece ringer would, I believe, be a great help to you. The source would be connected at one end of the wire in question and the receiver would be used thru out the vehicle to trace that wire without a physical connection as the source induces an alternating signal that produces a slight magnetic field that the receiver is tuned to. I have used this setup for tracing wiring harnesses used with plcs for years. Metallic armoured cable is the only thing it won't read thru. most automotive stuff doesn't use armoured cable.
nice work. My reo is also an old township plow truck and the wiring is hokey as well but not quite as bad. Sometimes chasing problems like this can be rewarding when you finally find the issue. We had an intermittent no start on our forklift at work and it took months to resurface. a forklift tech came out and replaced the ignition switch and a month later it happened again. I decided to take a look at it and like your situation here found the problem to be in the main connector coming out of the dash with a retracted burnt spade. i cleaned it up and got it to lock in correctly again and it seems to be fine now.
the tar is factory waterproofing. that's what they did back then. put it in the body connection. for an extra charge, the dealers and companies covered the bottoms of cars with that. it was pretty much a scam. worse on rot after it started failing. there was a famous company/brand name. can't remember.
Lol wire nuts! Appropriately named. I guess you could have ran a dedicated wire from your sensor to the dash and eliminate all variables in between.Good call on the lights.
Thank you Wes ! And thank you to the guys who left comments. I 'm trying to "fix my stupid" about vehicle wiring, and it's 19 yr old Pete company owned dump truck. I politely say I'm proud of the one turn signal that does work. Looks like fixing lights is gonna be on me. Thank you all.
Wes, I build custom utility trucks for a living and the black stuff you ran into is on every International truck we build. The stuff is awful to mess with and you literally can't wear the stuff off.
This is excellent! I always liked it when a motorcycle with electrical problems came in as I really enjoyed electrical fault finding, especially on older Japanese bikes. I've seen some real horrors, but nothing like that horrible stuff inside the connector, that's a new one on me!
I had the same problem with my 1973 Suburban it was the factory optional rust under coating . In my instance all the wiring connections were a nightmare. also the tar flowed into the gas filler vent, had to use a wire through the tube to clear it. have fun! Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
Hi. I have an S1600 International truck; I think that it is a 7.3 diesel - it's definitely a 1654 model. I would like to properly wire a universal key switch, a glow plug heater and two regulators in the engine that assist with starting. Unfortunately, I am unable to locate a wiring diagram or a photo of a truck like it so that I can see how the wiring setup should be. Where could I find something that might help me? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
late comment...but the cluster connector, and fuse panel are sourced from GM. I've seen that same "tar" in the connectors of old GM products I've worked on, I think it WAS dielectric grease...when those pins are overloaded, they melt the connector and can cause intermittents or high resistance in the circuit.
Have an old pickup. Somebody rewired the taillights and turn signals by running 3 conductor extension cord the length of the truck and spliced into the front lights. Probably took an entire Saturday and a twelve pack to do that. After correcting that fiasco of wiring, I pulled the steering wheel and repaired the connection there. Working fine. About 45 minutes to complete.
Love your videos. Keep up the good work. I have a trucking co. Here in CA. I found that outdoor, orange extension cord, is very good for wiring. Your Clark forklift videos were very inspiring to me. I have a Clark 1979 c500 ys80, 8000 lb capacity, with the continental flathead engine, just like the one you scrapped. You are one of the reasons I decided to work on it myself and resurrect it from the dead. I was sooo looking forward to seeing you put your hands on that forklift. (Dang it) Those old forklifts are built like a tank. Keep up the good work 👏👊👍🏽
The connector was not shorted there was increased resistance in the circuit also I'm willing to bet money the crusty stuff was cement or some other kind of coagulant substance that mixed with pre existing grease. I worked 6 years as a diesel tech in the waste industry. Shit job but damn did I get experience. Your rear light job was almost a daily thing for me for 6 months as a lead tech in a new shop with what i like to call "butchers" not techs. I love your channel and your work ethic.
I thought the saying was the more hands the lighter the load! I think I can help you on the schmoo, when I had to clean up connections and goo for the "real" body workers at the body shop I worked in years ago I was told it is a dielectric and helps with keeping the connections from getting to hot. The older stuff even had asbestos I was told (tasty). When you get into something like that truck that had knob heads running wires off of the hot side of a fuse to a inline fuse shows they have no concept that they can easily overheat the wire feeding the terminal they jumped on. Many blocks have open spots to put a tab thru and use the connection or wire up an auxiliary fuse block for your extra junk. Great job fixing it up they will get years out of it.
Wes, new subscriber here. I found your channel while looking for info on our International 1954 bucket truck from 1987. I was wondering if you happened to have any manuals (or information on where to find manuals) for the truck. We're hunting down some wiring information for the dashboard and possibly an engine diagram for the DT466. Thanks and thanks for the great videos!
Wes Johnson Services thanks, that makes sense. In my day to day IT work I use a tone generator and tone amplifier combination I've often wondered if it could work in automotive wiring. I have an 87 BMW I am slowly fixing up that needs tons of wiring fixed. Since the starter and headlights work, I've managed to put that off so far...
I don't see why it would not work. But, usually you can get a diagram that will tell you where to look. Also, unlike other machines, often automotive wiring is nicely color coded. This dump truck actually has wire labels printed on the wiring insulation.
If I was buying this from you, I'd ask you to cap the top of the box uprights and the frame channel iron to keep the water/rust out. I'd also warn you that your bottom lip will eventually rust off if it's full of chew. :) I'd hate to lose my mechanic to a rusty ump box or lip cancer! ( No offense meant.)
![ผัวเถื่อน - ยูริ โตเกียวมิวสิค [ OFFICIAL MUSIC VIDEO ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P08ORRVDGl8/mqdefault.jpg)
These products might help you with your wiring repairs.
Large shrink fit butt connectors - amzn.to/2Vvt9nJ
Medium shrink fit butt connectors - amzn.to/2Vvnq1n
The crimpers I use - amzn.to/2XxgbaV
Heat gun with shrink tube attachment - amzn.to/2C11dRo
The test light I use - amzn.to/2Vo31LA
Jacketed duplex wire 14/2 - amzn.to/2XsVcq1
Watch Wes Work kk
The black substance in the bulkhead connector is an anti-corrosion paste they used back in the day. I have found it all the way back into 50's vintage vehicles. I hear you about doing electrical on vehicles especially tail end wiring. Between corrosion, old wires, tape jobs, line taps, extension cord wire, house wire and wire nuts it can be Nightmare on Elm Street part 99 the never ending saga. Under hood I believe some of the issues are related to heat, "salt" spray (usually the cause of corrosion), oil leaks and vibration if the sending units are good. Kudo's to you for the tenacity to find the problem. Keep up the good work.
"When's the last time you saw a vehicle with glass fuses?" Yesterday, running a load of corn to the elevator. What's amazing is how easy they still are to get at the parts store.
whoever is buying this truck from you is getting an incredible deal. no one else in the world puts as much effort as you do into making sure these old trucks work right.
That's because you never get your money back for work like this. It takes too much time. But, I like to have things working right when they leave my shop, even if it doesn't look good on the balance sheet.
That’s why I won’t go self employed, I’d always be out of pocket on a job 😂.
@@WatchWesWork Clearing my back log of your videos so I'm kinda late to the party on this one. As far as the balance sheets go, it all depends on duration and scope. For this project and possibly 2019 the balance might be off but a couple of years down the line when the buyers are steady customers due to the trust they have for you and the quality of your work you will surely be in the black. It is refreshing to see a bit of old school honesty and ethics in a time when all is about the short term bottom line rather then quality and customer care.
Long term longevity on a repair, A satisfied customer, integrity, and repeat business and referrals usually beat short term profits and quick fixes.
Scotch locks are a sure fire way to get to revisit your work someday. :-)
They even make a "water proof version". A lot of body installers use them. They last slightly longer than the standard version.
If I have to use scotch blocks I put a lot of clear silicone sealer on them which seals them up from the elements
This is good you can use the shop air compressor to maintain the air pumps pressure we guess it thinks things are all normal so you can test and work on it, that is a neat lesson here. PTO? Power Take off for hydraulics, just learning here? That truck needs a whole rewire huh. Weather has not been her friend. You reworked those rear wiring and light nicely great video we are feeling good about this service work. Thank you. Lance & Patrick.
*shudder* All the stuff in this video is exactly why I tell my family that I won't work on automotive electrical for love or money.
I've seen people use regular grease instead of dielectric (silicone) grease in mating connectors, and it did get pretty waxy in a few years. Maybe over decades it turns to tar?
Great video about tracing and troubleshooting...never easy or fun! By the way, I think the clear part of the taillights goes on the bottom to help illuminate the ground when backing up.
👍a piece of equipment lives to fight another day thanks to you again! Thanks for sharing Wes!
thats how all my wiring repairs start and end.....hope its a quick easy fix and by the time i am happy with the repair, i have replaced or repaired a lot more than i wanted.
Some of that old truck wiring can be a real nightmare!. It's amazing how much a guy can figure out once he gets to know his test light. Nice video man well done
Yes, cab and chassis wiring is always a nightmare. Usually the chassis is fine, but anything the body installer touched will be a mess.
Great work on this old truck, nice to see someone doing the job correctly.
The black sticky stuff, could have been pitch, as it was used as a means of waterproofing/insulation of connectors and used in cables. If it was that, it looks like it's degraded with age.
The REA I worked at had a bucket truck that got rear ended by a semi on the highway, the truck went off the road and rolled once, one of the linemen was throw out the window of the truck as it rolled. Everyone survived believe it or not, the semi driver said their tail lights were not working, who really knows. The truck was wired at a place that installed the bed and boom on the truck. From that day forward I made sure any wiring I touched was a first class job even to the point of welding small stainless steel bolts to attach ground wires to.
Also I was coming home from work one day and I was following a pickup towing a boat, I could not see the tail lights on the truck and the trailer lights were not working, it was during the daytime. When I went to pass the guy then I saw the left blinker on his truck, I almost cleaned out the ditch trying to avoid hitting the truck that was turning left blocking the passing lane. Complete dumb ass, driving with out trailer lights and not bothering to look in his mirror before he turned left.
So if you ask me if tail light wiring is important, you bet it is!
I have seen some nasty connectors I have cleaned connectors that people stuffed Antiseize in to the brim but wow never seen one that black with anything that looks like Tar that is crazy @Watch Wes Work
You did a good job on old truck
Engine oil can track up wiring harnesses
That Tar like substance is an old electrical isolator like dielectric grease. Ran into the same thing on a 69 Camaro and an ole timer told me it was a grease that's turned black with time. Could also be something someone put in there... who knows with something that old...
That looks like a 1980s ford truck cluster. First of the dump truck videos I've watched.
I’ve come across that tar like stuff in the control box of an IR DD32 roller. I have no idea what it was there for or what it was doing. Gotta love salt trucks, basically gotta rewire the whole back half every oil change in the winter.m
I've used "tarlike-stuff" in connectors before. It's a product from Gardner-Bender called OxGuard. It's made for preventing corrosion in aluminum/aluminum and aluminum/copper wire splices. I'm not sure whether I should use it this way or not, but i've filled up crusty connectors to help prevent them from getting worse.
Im a retired mechanic just so happens that I retired from work with IH I have seen that black goo a hundred times, I think it is a grease IH used from the factory that breaks down over time, and it doesn't take long either Brake clean will help break it down so its easier to clean fyi Thanks for the videos brings me back in time
Other guys have said the same. I've never run into it before. Nasty stuff!
Wes, I won the light bulb challenge, lucky guess, and the prize I imagine is the gloop in the firewall connector. Those Scotch connectors are money in the bank, you get paid for the quick fix and they will be back so you can charge again. They only care if you can fix it, not how you fix it. Some shops charge big bucks and they don't even fix it! Hope we get to see the old gal headed down the road and $$$ in your pocket.👍👍
I can't figure out how they are legal. They might be OK in the trunk of a Honda, but I can't believe they would include them with an exterior tail light for a commercial truck.
Old plow trucks are mostly all like this you have to be good at electrical theory and testing because lots of times you can't find wiring diagrams. Good job wes
Even if we had a diagram, it would just be for the chassis. That would help with the first issue, but not with anything on the dump box. The body installers do whatever they want to and usually they do it very poorly.
I'm Really Impressed , You Patiently Make Everything Work !!! Personally , I Would Rather Take A Good Beating Than Tangal With Those Wires , It's Like " Just Shoot Me Instead " Thumbs Up
It's just little bits of copper. Nothing to it.
You need a power probe for jobs like this! Maybe you have one? If not it time for a new tool! You will wonder how you every made it without it! I enjoy watching your videos!
My power probe 3 is my go to
I've been an electrician for about 30 years, and I have the same sentament about scotch-loc connectors. I can't believe they still make that garbage.
They're ok to use on low voltage DC power systems in arcade and pinball games but definitely not on automotive vehicles and other items were weather can be a problem.
Especially not on house wiring.
By the way, I've been a electronics technitian on arcade and pinball games for 38 years so I know that if they're properly installed they're ok to use to add a wire to a circuit.
the glass fuses worked great when cars and trucks got power crazy it became what you saw wire arounds only second time ever seen inside the black wiring block all had that black stuff in them had 10 rock crusher transmissions too wheres my hammer
Good Video Easiest way of fixing wiring Like that I agree is just snip snip @Watch Wes Work
Good Job on the vids . Getting much better . stay classy
Your a very paintent man Mr Johnson.. Great work fixing all the faults. Im sure you will be glad to sell it and move it out of your shop.
Yeah. I like this old truck, but it's time to move on to the next project.
You are spot on with your accesment. You just have to know when to say enough is enough. Good job explaining the air system operations. As far as that black tar substance I've seen it before. It was common on aircraft that flew in salt water regions. Perhaps the shop guy was an old Army Air Corp mechanic and thought what the heck it worked on planes. I sure can't remember the name of it but I've seen it.
Newbie ro your channel. Ive watched a cpl of your videos and its clear to see you take pride in your work and do a great job.most people would of jury rigged the wiring if they knew they were reselling the truck.
I just hate sketchy wiring. Once you get started you might as well do it right.
Your talking crap about my 1980 international. same deal!....cant get turn signal on passenger side to work.
You wouldnt happen to know where I can find a power steering reservoir for mine? Any help would be appreciated. Have searched the webz for months.
Thumbs up 👍 and the license plate light?
Wes, for tracing automotive wiring a 2 piece ringer would, I believe, be a great help to you. The source would be connected at one end of the wire in question and the receiver would be used thru out the vehicle to trace that wire without a physical connection as the source induces an alternating signal that produces a slight magnetic field that the receiver is tuned to. I have used this setup for tracing wiring harnesses used with plcs for years. Metallic armoured cable is the only thing it won't read thru. most automotive stuff doesn't use armoured cable.
nice work. My reo is also an old township plow truck and the wiring is hokey as well but not quite as bad. Sometimes chasing problems like this can be rewarding when you finally find the issue. We had an intermittent no start on our forklift at work and it took months to resurface. a forklift tech came out and replaced the ignition switch and a month later it happened again. I decided to take a look at it and like your situation here found the problem to be in the main connector coming out of the dash with a retracted burnt spade. i cleaned it up and got it to lock in correctly again and it seems to be fine now.
I have a migraine after seeing all that wiring....
the tar is factory waterproofing. that's what they did back then. put it in the body connection. for an extra charge, the dealers and companies covered the bottoms of cars with that. it was pretty much a scam. worse on rot after it started failing. there was a famous company/brand name. can't remember.
You’ve taken something so boring as wiring and made it a very entertaining and educational clip. Way to go!
Lol wire nuts! Appropriately named. I guess you could have ran a dedicated wire from your sensor to the dash and eliminate all variables in between.Good call on the lights.
Yeah, with these old trucks that's often the way to fix them.
Thank you Wes ! And thank you to the guys who left comments. I 'm trying to "fix my stupid" about vehicle wiring, and it's 19 yr old Pete company owned dump truck. I politely say I'm proud of the one turn signal that does work. Looks like fixing lights is gonna be on me. Thank you all.
Yeah they never get around to fixing the lights until the DOT puts them out of service.
Wes, I build custom utility trucks for a living and the black stuff you ran into is on every International truck we build. The stuff is awful to mess with and you literally can't wear the stuff off.
Interesting. I've worked on a lot International trucks and I've not seen it before. Or at least I don't remember it.
You may have saved my butt. I have a 83 1954 and have the same problem
Probably the gunk in the connection was GAA.
Great video really enjoyed watching it keep the videos coming!
How do i fix my head lights they are not working anymore and i don’t know what fuse to start at
This is excellent!
I always liked it when a motorcycle with electrical problems came in as I really enjoyed electrical fault finding, especially on older Japanese bikes.
I've seen some real horrors, but nothing like that horrible stuff inside the connector, that's a new one on me!
Too many hands on this old truck.
I had the same problem with my 1973 Suburban it was the factory optional rust under coating . In my instance all the wiring connections were a nightmare. also the tar flowed into the gas filler vent, had to use a wire through the tube to clear it. have fun!
Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
That's very possible. It sure made a mess.
I had fuseable link trouble because engine, cab and frame all have to be grounded. To prevent stray voltage back feeding
Hi. I have an S1600 International truck; I think that it is a 7.3 diesel - it's definitely a 1654 model. I would like to properly wire a universal key switch, a glow plug heater and two regulators in the engine that assist with starting. Unfortunately, I am unable to locate a wiring diagram or a photo of a truck like it so that I can see how the wiring setup should be. Where could I find something that might help me? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
late comment...but the cluster connector, and fuse panel are sourced from GM. I've seen that same "tar" in the connectors of old GM products I've worked on, I think it WAS dielectric grease...when those pins are overloaded, they melt the connector and can cause intermittents or high resistance in the circuit.
Have an old pickup. Somebody rewired the taillights and turn signals by running 3 conductor extension cord the length of the truck and spliced into the front lights. Probably took an entire Saturday and a twelve pack to do that. After correcting that fiasco of wiring, I pulled the steering wheel and repaired the connection there. Working fine. About 45 minutes to complete.
Love your videos. Keep up the good work.
I have a trucking co. Here in CA. I found that outdoor, orange extension cord, is very good for wiring.
Your Clark forklift videos were very inspiring to me. I have a Clark 1979 c500 ys80, 8000 lb capacity, with the continental flathead engine, just like the one you scrapped. You are one of the reasons I decided to work on it myself and resurrect it from the dead. I was sooo looking forward to seeing you put your hands on that forklift. (Dang it) Those old forklifts are built like a tank.
Keep up the good work 👏👊👍🏽
The connector was not shorted there was increased resistance in the circuit also I'm willing to bet money the crusty stuff was cement or some other kind of coagulant substance that mixed with pre existing grease. I worked 6 years as a diesel tech in the waste industry. Shit job but damn did I get experience. Your rear light job was almost a daily thing for me for 6 months as a lead tech in a new shop with what i like to call "butchers" not techs. I love your channel and your work ethic.
Nice fix!
Why aren't they using boat-trailer tail lights on these trucks? Aren't they completely sealed?
Gremlins!
Great Job .....
In your state are the 2 upper brake lights required so you have to have 4? Are the maker lights on the bottom of the box required as well?
My guess is that the grease/gunk was conductive.
I'd also love to know what that gunk in the connector was. Weird stuff.
I have no idea. I guess it's better than green crusty copper corrosion!
True!
That wiring was a nightmare - but you got the lights working so awesome job
That black goop looked like roofing cement.
It's Internationals corrosion protector for wiring.
👍😎👍
just tar it.... should work great
👍
Good job. Definitely a do-over with the tail lights / marker lights...
Yeah, there was nothing left to fix.
Wadda mess!
All's well that ends well. Good work!
I thought the saying was the more hands the lighter the load! I think I can help you on the schmoo, when I had to clean up connections and goo for the "real" body workers at the body shop I worked in years ago I was told it is a dielectric and helps with keeping the connections from getting to hot. The older stuff even had asbestos I was told (tasty). When you get into something like that truck that had knob heads running wires off of the hot side of a fuse to a inline fuse shows they have no concept that they can easily overheat the wire feeding the terminal they jumped on. Many blocks have open spots to put a tab thru and use the connection or wire up an auxiliary fuse block for your extra junk. Great job fixing it up they will get years out of it.
My 64 Vette has glass fuses.
Wes, new subscriber here. I found your channel while looking for info on our International 1954 bucket truck from 1987. I was wondering if you happened to have any manuals (or information on where to find manuals) for the truck. We're hunting down some wiring information for the dashboard and possibly an engine diagram for the DT466.
Thanks and thanks for the great videos!
I think I have a book of wiring diagrams for the S series trucks. Send me an email mail@watchweswork.com
@@WatchWesWork I didn't expect a response so fast, thanks for replying! I've sent an email.
@@WatchWesWork Hopefully my email went to the right place
Again great job......
Interesting video. How did you trace the wire to the back of the instrument panel?
The wiring is very basic. You can just tug on the wire and see where it goes. There aren't even any relays except on the starter.
Wes Johnson Services thanks, that makes sense. In my day to day IT work I use a tone generator and tone amplifier combination I've often wondered if it could work in automotive wiring. I have an 87 BMW I am slowly fixing up that needs tons of wiring fixed. Since the starter and headlights work, I've managed to put that off so far...
I don't see why it would not work. But, usually you can get a diagram that will tell you where to look. Also, unlike other machines, often automotive wiring is nicely color coded. This dump truck actually has wire labels printed on the wiring insulation.
Nice!!
Check out load pro leads. Ditch the test light.
If I was buying this from you, I'd ask you to cap the top of the box uprights and the frame channel iron to keep the water/rust out. I'd also warn you that your bottom lip will eventually rust off if it's full of chew. :) I'd hate to lose my mechanic to a rusty ump box or lip cancer! ( No offense meant.)
I don't chew. I fixed the rust in another video. Came out pretty decent.
@@WatchWesWork Sorry! Thought you had pinch in their. Yes, saw the vid of you axing the rust. Good job on the od truck!