Cecil, this was perfect... thank you for taking the time to do this... six years ago now and your video is still adding value and helping people! If you see this comment, I have a question - what software did you use to make the graphics for your video? Thanks! Dan
Hello Dan! Thank you for your comments. I hope the video helps to clarify any questions you might have had. I use several different software suites to achieve the effects needed. Typically, I make 3D models in Blender, texture them in Photoshop, compile in Premiere Pro, and add special effects in After Effects.
That's quite a process to get the 3D modeling done, but it sure helps clarify how things work. I've downloaded Blender and am starting to dig in. Thanks again! I'm in the process of converting my portable sawmill to hydraulic and 12V motor controlled. The limit switches will be used on two Bodine gear head motors, coupled with (35, 41 sized) chains and idlers to pull the cutting head, and log clamp, to keep them from bottoming out at the end of their tracks. Take care!
@@dankeenan9759 Sounds like a neat project. Good luck with it! For what it's worth, Blender can be difficult to understand when you first start, but I think it's worth pushing through. I suggest you look up Andrew Price (BlenderGuru) for tutorials. He has a very good beginner series.
@@ElecInst Yes, it has been an amazing journey with the sawmill... electrical, mechanical, hydraulic, welding, fabrication, etc... life is better when we're working on a "project!" Thanks again Cecil!
+Plinio Gañi Hello Plinio! Thank you for the compliments. I use a variety of tools in creating animations. For this one I used Photoshop for the textures and Blender for the animation frames. I then compile it together in Premiere Pro and add some minor effects in After Effects. (Not including Audition for the audio)
WOW. You rock. Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed video and explaining it so well. I am off to work on my embroidery machine now because I now understand what it is I am trying to accomplish!
Thank you, Wendy. Glad you enjoyed it. Good luck with your embroidery machine and remember to turn off the power before placing your hands near any needles (or gears).
Awesome video thank you! any chance you would know where to find more information on the specifications on the side? I’ve had a microwave switch, NO terminal melt twice. I can replace again but maybe you have experience with a better solution other than replacing. The replacement lasted 1.5years till it started being inconsistent with continuity while depressed
Hi Tyler. Thank you for your comments. Usually the vendor/manufacturer of the switch will have the info you are seeking. I would use the info on the side and Google as a starting point. I think it important to mention that I am not a microwave technician and microwaves carry a number of hazards, including VERY high voltages. My general rule is to not work on anything that will kill me, so please be aware of this. With that said, I think you've already found significant insight in the switch terminal melting after being replaced. This suggests the melting is a symptom of a different problem, possibly/probably a different component receiving the power from that terminal. But an under-rated switch, a poor wire connection, and other factors may also be involved. Throw in the added complexity of the failure occurring intermittently over time and you have a situation where even the best technicians will be perplexed. For this particular problem, I'd say either take it to someone who has the wiring diagrams and test equipment to figure it out, or buy a new microwave. (Sorry) I will also tell you that for many years I was ignorant on the importance of a proper wire crimp, especially under higher-amp conditions. I found this out because I too experienced melting components. This gentlemen's video is a good start, but some valuable inconsistencies are pointed out in the comments. th-cam.com/video/nvPESov0HbY/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps, Cecil
That was superb! Thanks Cecil! Am I supposed to be seeing an arc through the plastic case whenever the switch is activated? Or is that an indication of a problem somewhere in the line? I'm working on a water distiller and have burnt out a pile of these switches. The diagnosis eludes me, and the manufacturer has no clue of what's doing it either... th-cam.com/video/RYMoJ8T6N5o/w-d-xo.html
i bought a microswitch for my air fryer and the switch is reversed. Now, when I close the door the air fryer turns off and when I leave the door open the air fry stays on!
For some odd reason this style of switch was used in my automotive hand-held spotlight. Why not simply use a STSP momentary switch? There ain't but one load - the bulb. Two terminals will getcha there just fine. Extra material, extra complication, extra expense. Just why, is all... 🤷♂🤷♂🤷♂🤷♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂
Hi bobbofly, Sorry for the extreme delay in my response as I just saw your comment today. Why use one component over another? I don't know. In my experience, companies don't just pick something without reason. Perhaps the manufacturer had trouble sourcing a SPST, or got a considerable price-break for using a microswitch. I like to believe that we all do the best we can with the parts and knowledge we have available. I hope this video helps you do the same.
Usually there is some type of physical force that pushes against the lever, like a door or a roller. In this example, if a door pushes against it, the green light would be on and when the door is not, the red light is on.
You're welcome, Antonios. Please remember that because the video was created in the US, all measurements are in imperial units, and not metric. (joking) Thank you for your comment.
Hi. My boiler's microswitch has 3 cables attached to C, NO, and NC. The only replacement microswitch I could find has 2 terminals. How do I know which wires should I attach to which terminal? Thanks
Hi Shoaib, I have never encountered a circuit where leaving one wire off was acceptable, but the only way to know for sure is to contact the manufacturer.
I'm trying to wire up a universal gear indicator for a manual car using micro switches pressed by the shifter in each gear to activate each number on the display, and I want to utilize the N for neutral, to display the 'N' when the shifter is not in any gear/not touching any micro switch. Should the micro switches all share the same ground for that to work?
Hello Gerald5000, Please keep in mind that I am not a mechanic and have no knowledge on the vehicle in question, but I suspect what you are wanting to do cannot be accomplished with microswitches alone. With that said, yes, all automotive circuits must share the same ground by connecting to the vehicles frame or battery. I'm sure there are some mechanics cruising the comments who may have more accurate knowledge than I, so I would defer to someone with more experience in this area. Good luck! It sounds like a fun project.
@@ElecInst Thanks for the reply, yeah I've been racking my brain trying, and I don't think I can either. I need a way to interrupt the 'N' displayed with a gear number displayed.
Thanks. I was looking at a hairdryer's cold function button which is actually a microswitch that had the same labelling C, NO and NC. Didn't know what voltage direction flow to expect at the different positions with a multimeter at buzzer setting. Your video explained it quite thoroughly.
Thank you. I'm glad you found it useful. Speed can be measured in many ways, so I'm uncertain which part you might be referring to as faster. Consider a typical light switch in a home as having 3 states; On, Off, and an area in the middle where it is technically neither on or off. The microswitch removes this area so it is either on or off depending on lever travel distance. This is accomplished by the use of a spring-loaded conductor inside the switch. The spring certainly makes the switching mechanism travel faster than a switch without this spring, but both types rely on an outside force moving the arm to start the process. Your question suggests you have something particular in mind, but without knowing the application and what is required, then this becomes a difficult question to answer. I hope this helps you figure out your next steps.
the 3 points (not 2 contact points ) of ANY microswitch puzzle me; see here, imgur.com/HBdk4cg.jpg; after this video , I understand one is normal OFF (RED), but this imgur circuit still puzzle me --- this is sofa couch electric recliner (normally, both button are off, 2 buttons left one *white / yellow / blue ; and right (blue)/ black (or may be white -- see the circuit board layout for the white) FROM LEFT to right of the dig -- white/ yellow / blue / black, while the RIGHT welding point got nothing but the RIGHT-most welding point equal to WHITE wire too -- see the U cirucit) normally LEFT microswitch when switch is PRESSED -- white yellow blue is RETRACT of chair while RIGHT microswitch (blue) (black) [[ white ]] for EXTEND of the leg rest of the recliner chair ]] --- forgot left of right, when nothing is pressed, the meter show full current then the rest... I don't know -- asking you here guys !! help !!
+ch3m Sorry to hear you are having such trouble. When troubleshooting, it is of great help to have the device's wiring diagram so you know where each of the wires are supposed to go. Then, using a multimeter, confirm voltage is going into the switch and then determine if it passes on to the individual wires. Also keep in mind that testing with voltage applied can be very dangerous. You run the risk of harming yourself or additional components, thus making the problem worse. Also, you may want to just focus on the switch and check for continuity like I do near the end of the video. Wires and soldered connections fail less often than moving parts (like switches). Lastly, keep in mind that this video shows an AC circuit, while what you are describing looks to be DC. If this is correct then this video won't help much.
I have a microswitch in an old Rockwell Taxi Meter. It has 5, 2 NO and 2 NC plus Common, contacts instead of the 3 you show and they are all screw ins and 3 input wires, Yellow, Red, Black. Yellow goes to Common, Red to one of the NC, and Black to one of the NO, with other wires connected to the NCs and NOs. So maybe all three would be 12V+ coming from the battery and the meter would be grounded to the car for the 12V- ? I'm so confused but liked your video.
Sounds like a challenge. Using a multimeter, test it the same way shown in the video and determine where continuity exists (and when). I suspect you have a microswitch with 2 circuit paths, where my video only shows one. Without knowing anything about taxi meters or having a wiring diagram, I could only guess what voltage goes where, but I know many vehicles use the vehicle frame as their ground. Hope this helps...
@@ElecInst Well, after all my testing and blowing 12v fuse on my power source ( I have more fuses). Today I just connected 12V+ to yellow wire and 12V- to the chassis and got the lights to work. I stopped and reassembled. Clock didn't come alive, may need another connection but I'll live with just the lights and the flag turns fine and the bottom 2 windows mechanically change ok. Spent enough time on it, lubed lightly and cleaned inside of front face. Win some, lose some. It does look quite good cosmetically.
@@am1manTravel A good start to be sure. Best bet is to find a wiring diagram, if possible. Aside from completely tearing it apart and physically mapping circuits, this will be the only way to solve the remaining issues. Good luck!!
That's a really well made video and explains it with just enough information, not too much or too little. One thing though, when testing a microswitch shouldn't you test that NC is _not_ connected when the lever is pressed, and NO is not connected when it's not? Or in other words that Normally Open actually is normally open. Otherwise the contacts might be shorted to one another, or to Common.
Hi Greenaum! You raise a good point that testing in both states (on and off) of both the NC and NO terminals may be required. I could have done a better job in making that point. Thank you for raising the question.
Nice video, super easy to understand! I enjoyed it and I'm not even certain what it's for, but now I wish I did cause now I understand how it works! Thanks man!
Really wll done and I have a question: to activated a little motor cc for a ball launcher (ping pong), is possible to use Microswitch for the few seconds of rotation ?
To be honest, I'm not really sure. I looked up "Ping Pong Ball Launchers" and found many variations from a Boy Scout How-to to a 300mph cannon. The only thing I can really say is that this switch will need something to move the lever back and forth between its two states. Also, every switch has electrical ratings that must be followed for safe operation, so it depends on how much power the motor needs to operate and how big of a switch you use.
Thankyou for posting... good info! A question if you don't mind. Why are these switches all rated for less than 0.5amps DC? AC rating can be higher depending on the switch, but DC is ALWAYS less than 0.5amps. I'm using an 18v cordless drill motor to operate a winch, which draws 17amps MAX at startup... normally 6-12amps. I'd like to add one of these switches as a limit for upward travel... to prevent binding. But there doesn't seem to be a switch in existence which is rated to handle that much current DC. I've seen inside the switches and the contacts look plenty beefy. Beefier even than the 14ga wire I'm using which it'self is overkill. What am I misunderstanding? Thankyou!
all good questions, but not very easy to answer. Because of the properties of DC power, the contacts must often be made stronger. An over-simplified explanation might be to say that AC power travels in 2 directions while DC power on travels in 1. Regardless of all this, I think you might find what you're looking for if you search Grainger or similar for a "Snap Action Switch." I was able to find several rated for amounts greater than 15 amps at 20-40VDC. I hope this helps. Cecil
@@ElecInst Hey thankyou... that did help! I found one rated for 20amps DC at 14v. www.grainger.com/product/OMRON-20A-480V-Hinge-Roller-6X290?opr=APPD&pbi=6X290&analytics=altItems Dumb questions... - Doing the same work, would I be drawing lower amps if I were using greater voltage... 14vDC vs my 18vDC ? - This is not strictly speaking a "limit switch". Can I assume there will be three connections... Common, Norm Open, and Norm Closed? And thankyou again. I'm a wood guy but I'm building a prototype of an idea and I'm a total newb with electricity.
@@ckain5501 A switch might be part of your overall design, but using it alone would not make this possible. A switch only opens or closes a circuit. There are some instances where you may want a motor to switch direction, as example, and if you were to have two separate voltages already established (pos polarity and neg polarity), then you could supply one of these to NO and the other to NC each being directed out the common. In theory, this would be possible, but there are other factors involved like the amperage of the load and whether or not the switch is rated for it. Depending on the cost of the parts and how critical the operation of this circuit is, you may want to enlist the help of a local expert.
Thanks for the video! It was useful for me in order to construct my "Bimbo V.1" device: th-cam.com/video/vgfCYsiZAkE/w-d-xo.html By the way, what do you think it is actually good for?
do they make a switch in this format that acts like a toggle switch? push once and release, the yellow light stays on push it again and it goes back to the green light. thanks
Hi Wilson! I am not aware of any switch is this style that does what you are describing, but there are a couple of ways to get there: There are locking push-button switches that remain in one state until depressed, think like old stereo power buttons, also you could create what is called a "latch circuit" but requires a second switch to disconnect the power. Here are some links to review: www.sparkfun.com/products/9808?_ga=1.31737342.1904020568.1470605093 th-cam.com/video/n7SuHDmuVUk/w-d-xo.html Good Luck!
what if in resting position,after doing the continuity test the multimeter does not beep the switch has to be changed or some settings have to be made.
It can be either. Sometimes the arm needs to be bent a little in order for contacts to be made, sometimes the switch has to be replaced. Try bending the arm a little first...
Hey i want something like this but the microswitch lever should be automatic by pressing on/off button and not being mechanical, is it possible?somehow is like a reverse system instead we push the lever to turn on/off the circuit i want to turn on/off a button and then the microswitch lever gets up/down, is it possible or is there another micro piece?thx nice video btw
Hi Juvel, I don't know very much about elevators, so I am uncertain if they are used there. But (in theory) a microswitch could be used in several places on an elevator, like floor-leveling, door opening/closing, and various safety applications, like determining if the escape hatch is open or closed.
Depends on how the switches are wired, what components are in use and what you want the limit switch to do. Best to contact motor manufacturer for guidance.
i wish all how to's and guide videos would be like this!
Thank you!
(Me too!)
:o)
❤
Cecil, this was perfect... thank you for taking the time to do this... six years ago now and your video is still adding value and helping people! If you see this comment, I have a question - what software did you use to make the graphics for your video? Thanks! Dan
Hello Dan! Thank you for your comments. I hope the video helps to clarify any questions you might have had. I use several different software suites to achieve the effects needed. Typically, I make 3D models in Blender, texture them in Photoshop, compile in Premiere Pro, and add special effects in After Effects.
That's quite a process to get the 3D modeling done, but it sure helps clarify how things work. I've downloaded Blender and am starting to dig in. Thanks again! I'm in the process of converting my portable sawmill to hydraulic and 12V motor controlled. The limit switches will be used on two Bodine gear head motors, coupled with (35, 41 sized) chains and idlers to pull the cutting head, and log clamp, to keep them from bottoming out at the end of their tracks. Take care!
@@dankeenan9759 Sounds like a neat project. Good luck with it!
For what it's worth, Blender can be difficult to understand when you first start, but I think it's worth pushing through. I suggest you look up Andrew Price (BlenderGuru) for tutorials. He has a very good beginner series.
@@ElecInst Yes, it has been an amazing journey with the sawmill... electrical, mechanical, hydraulic, welding, fabrication, etc... life is better when we're working on a "project!" Thanks again Cecil!
This was very useful, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!
That was everything the video should have been. Very well done, hombre. Very much appreciated!
Great video! Cleary explained and very usefull. Thanks a lot! By the way, how did you make the switch animation? Best!
+Plinio Gañi Hello Plinio!
Thank you for the compliments.
I use a variety of tools in creating animations. For this one I used Photoshop for the textures and Blender for the animation frames. I then compile it together in Premiere Pro and add some minor effects in After Effects. (Not including Audition for the audio)
Great job on the production of this video! Super clear; easy to understand. Thank you!!!
Great video, vivid and concise! Hoping for more videos like this. Many thanks!
Wow, this video was amazing! Super clear and simple to follow, thank you!
Thanks sir, its very useful and easy to understand, Bring knowledge for everyone
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Well done. Thank you for putting this together. Keep up the great work.
WOW. You rock. Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed video and explaining it so well. I am off to work on my embroidery
machine now because I now understand what it is I am trying to accomplish!
Thank you, Wendy. Glad you enjoyed it. Good luck with your embroidery machine and remember to turn off the power before placing your hands near any needles (or gears).
And because I understood, I was able to fix my machine! Thanks again!!
Cecil, many thanks for a great clear, concise tutorial. Greatly appreciated.
Glad you liked it and hope the info proves useful for you!
Thank you:) Very helpful video!
Thank you very much you helped a bunch .🖖
Awesome video thank you! any chance you would know where to find more information on the specifications on the side?
I’ve had a microwave switch, NO terminal melt twice. I can replace again but maybe you have experience with a better solution other than replacing. The replacement lasted 1.5years till it started being inconsistent with continuity while depressed
Hi Tyler. Thank you for your comments.
Usually the vendor/manufacturer of the switch will have the info you are seeking. I would use the info on the side and Google as a starting point.
I think it important to mention that I am not a microwave technician and microwaves carry a number of hazards, including VERY high voltages. My general rule is to not work on anything that will kill me, so please be aware of this.
With that said, I think you've already found significant insight in the switch terminal melting after being replaced. This suggests the melting is a symptom of a different problem, possibly/probably a different component receiving the power from that terminal. But an under-rated switch, a poor wire connection, and other factors may also be involved. Throw in the added complexity of the failure occurring intermittently over time and you have a situation where even the best technicians will be perplexed.
For this particular problem, I'd say either take it to someone who has the wiring diagrams and test equipment to figure it out, or buy a new microwave. (Sorry)
I will also tell you that for many years I was ignorant on the importance of a proper wire crimp, especially under higher-amp conditions. I found this out because I too experienced melting components. This gentlemen's video is a good start, but some valuable inconsistencies are pointed out in the comments.
th-cam.com/video/nvPESov0HbY/w-d-xo.html
I hope this helps,
Cecil
Thank you for a clear and concise explanantion
nice explanation Cecil.. thank you very much.
i'll look over your other videos :)
That was superb! Thanks Cecil!
Am I supposed to be seeing an arc through the plastic case whenever the switch is activated?
Or is that an indication of a problem somewhere in the line?
I'm working on a water distiller and have burnt out a pile of these switches. The diagnosis eludes me, and the manufacturer has no clue of what's doing it either...
th-cam.com/video/RYMoJ8T6N5o/w-d-xo.html
@@ElecInst Ok, thanks!
i bought a microswitch for my air fryer and the switch is reversed. Now, when I close the door the air fryer turns off and when I leave the door open the air fry stays on!
Thanks for the video, it was very casual, very well done and super useful =)
sir, thank u very much
Great video! I can't believe this hasn't been viewed a lot more...
For some odd reason this style of switch was used in my automotive hand-held spotlight. Why not simply use a STSP momentary switch? There ain't but one load - the bulb. Two terminals will getcha there just fine. Extra material, extra complication, extra expense. Just why, is all... 🤷♂🤷♂🤷♂🤷♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂
Hi bobbofly, Sorry for the extreme delay in my response as I just saw your comment today. Why use one component over another? I don't know. In my experience, companies don't just pick something without reason. Perhaps the manufacturer had trouble sourcing a SPST, or got a considerable price-break for using a microswitch.
I like to believe that we all do the best we can with the parts and knowledge we have available. I hope this video helps you do the same.
great ,thanks a lot:D
This is very useful. Thanks for this video.
Thanks for the video Just what needed to know...
Great video, and very easy to understand! Thanks
LOVE YOU😻😻😻YOU THE BEST TEACHER 👍👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️👏👏👏
Nice explanation. Thanks.
Gracias excelente 👌 explicación!!! Gracias 😁
Usually there is some type of physical force that pushes against the lever, like a door or a roller. In this example, if a door pushes against it, the green light would be on and when the door is not, the red light is on.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this video. From UK
You're welcome, Antonios. Please remember that because the video was created in the US, all measurements are in imperial units, and not metric. (joking)
Thank you for your comment.
Excellent video.. my wheelchair lift uses these types of switches. they use the long arm ones....
I am always amazed at how many different places these switches are used. Thanks for the comment!
Very good method to understanding..
Hi. My boiler's microswitch has 3 cables attached to C, NO, and NC. The only replacement microswitch I could find has 2 terminals. How do I know which wires should I attach to which terminal? Thanks
Hi Shoaib, I have never encountered a circuit where leaving one wire off was acceptable, but the only way to know for sure is to contact the manufacturer.
@@ElecInst Ok. Thanks
I'm trying to wire up a universal gear indicator for a manual car using micro switches pressed by the shifter in each gear to activate each number on the display, and I want to utilize the N for neutral, to display the 'N' when the shifter is not in any gear/not touching any micro switch. Should the micro switches all share the same ground for that to work?
Hello Gerald5000,
Please keep in mind that I am not a mechanic and have no knowledge on the vehicle in question, but I suspect what you are wanting to do cannot be accomplished with microswitches alone. With that said, yes, all automotive circuits must share the same ground by connecting to the vehicles frame or battery. I'm sure there are some mechanics cruising the comments who may have more accurate knowledge than I, so I would defer to someone with more experience in this area.
Good luck! It sounds like a fun project.
@@ElecInst Thanks for the reply, yeah I've been racking my brain trying, and I don't think I can either. I need a way to interrupt the 'N' displayed with a gear number displayed.
You the man Cecil
Thanks. I was looking at a hairdryer's cold function button which is actually a microswitch that had the same labelling C, NO and NC. Didn't know what voltage direction flow to expect at the different positions with a multimeter at buzzer setting. Your video explained it quite thoroughly.
Nice video. Is a normal switch faster than a microswitch one?
Thank you. I'm glad you found it useful.
Speed can be measured in many ways, so I'm uncertain which part you might be referring to as faster. Consider a typical light switch in a home as having 3 states; On, Off, and an area in the middle where it is technically neither on or off. The microswitch removes this area so it is either on or off depending on lever travel distance. This is accomplished by the use of a spring-loaded conductor inside the switch. The spring certainly makes the switching mechanism travel faster than a switch without this spring, but both types rely on an outside force moving the arm to start the process.
Your question suggests you have something particular in mind, but without knowing the application and what is required, then this becomes a difficult question to answer.
I hope this helps you figure out your next steps.
My question is where can I find a kw3at-16 switch!?!??!? Are these things ultra rare?
Currently going through a toaster and found this switch, thank you for the break down, hopefully I can put it back together.
If anyone still doesn't understand it ,just the micro switch , it's a mechanical push force relay .
Thank you it helped a lot👍
Very much appreciated!
Nice video, thanks it helped clearly understand. Appreciate the efforts :)
We used the micro switches for cabinet safety interlocks in the Navy to prevent accidents.
Thank you Cecil!
Thank you so much .. may you rest in piece for share your knowledge with us.
Great video, and great tip (testing the switch without removing it) Thank you.
great job Cecil for such a thorough and easy to understand explanation
thankyou (Thailand)
Thank you for making this video, it is a great help on my project and a clear lesson.
this is one of the best videos i've seen of its type. great job, thank you, and please make more
Thank you for this simple and informative video🙏
Thank you! This was a huge help in diagnosing my problem!
Good video thx Bro
Great video. Easy to understand and not loaded with a bunch of unnecessary b.s.
Wow just the video I was looking for, thanks!
the 3 points (not 2 contact points ) of ANY microswitch puzzle me; see here, imgur.com/HBdk4cg.jpg; after this video , I understand one is normal OFF (RED), but this imgur circuit still puzzle me --- this is sofa couch electric recliner (normally, both button are off, 2 buttons left one *white / yellow / blue ; and right (blue)/ black (or may be white -- see the circuit board layout for the white)
FROM LEFT to right of the dig -- white/ yellow / blue / black, while the RIGHT welding point got nothing
but the RIGHT-most welding point equal to WHITE wire too -- see the U cirucit)
normally LEFT microswitch when switch is PRESSED -- white yellow blue is RETRACT of chair
while RIGHT microswitch (blue) (black) [[ white ]] for EXTEND of the leg rest of the recliner chair ]]
--- forgot left of right, when nothing is pressed, the meter show full current
then the rest... I don't know -- asking you here guys !! help !!
+ch3m Sorry to hear you are having such trouble. When troubleshooting, it is of great help to have the device's wiring diagram so you know where each of the wires are supposed to go. Then, using a multimeter, confirm voltage is going into the switch and then determine if it passes on to the individual wires. Also keep in mind that testing with voltage applied can be very dangerous. You run the risk of harming yourself or additional components, thus making the problem worse.
Also, you may want to just focus on the switch and check for continuity like I do near the end of the video. Wires and soldered connections fail less often than moving parts (like switches).
Lastly, keep in mind that this video shows an AC circuit, while what you are describing looks to be DC. If this is correct then this video won't help much.
I have a microswitch in an old Rockwell Taxi Meter. It has 5, 2 NO and 2 NC plus Common, contacts instead of the 3 you show and they are all screw ins and 3 input wires, Yellow, Red, Black. Yellow goes to Common, Red to one of the NC, and Black to one of the NO, with other wires connected to the NCs and NOs. So maybe all three would be 12V+ coming from the battery and the meter would be grounded to the car for the 12V- ? I'm so confused but liked your video.
Sounds like a challenge. Using a multimeter, test it the same way shown in the video and determine where continuity exists (and when). I suspect you have a microswitch with 2 circuit paths, where my video only shows one. Without knowing anything about taxi meters or having a wiring diagram, I could only guess what voltage goes where, but I know many vehicles use the vehicle frame as their ground. Hope this helps...
@@ElecInst Well, after all my testing and blowing 12v fuse on my power source ( I have more fuses). Today I just connected 12V+ to yellow wire and 12V- to the chassis and got the lights to work. I stopped and reassembled. Clock didn't come alive, may need another connection but I'll live with just the lights and the flag turns fine and the bottom 2 windows mechanically change ok. Spent enough time on it, lubed lightly and cleaned inside of front face. Win some, lose some. It does look quite good cosmetically.
@@am1manTravel A good start to be sure. Best bet is to find a wiring diagram, if possible. Aside from completely tearing it apart and physically mapping circuits, this will be the only way to solve the remaining issues. Good luck!!
@@ElecInst Short vid on working pretty good for now! th-cam.com/video/viw7dtUrjns/w-d-xo.htmlsi=E5WWHa-gfQismIl5 Thanks for your encouragement!
Excellent video. Saved my leaf blower.
Very very well made and explained video. Thank you
how to override a eaton micro switch for a printing press??
These are used extensively in pinball machines.
That's a really well made video and explains it with just enough information, not too much or too little.
One thing though, when testing a microswitch shouldn't you test that NC is _not_ connected when the lever is pressed, and NO is not connected when it's not? Or in other words that Normally Open actually is normally open. Otherwise the contacts might be shorted to one another, or to Common.
Hi Greenaum! You raise a good point that testing in both states (on and off) of both the NC and NO terminals may be required. I could have done a better job in making that point. Thank you for raising the question.
'
that switch can use both either way battery DC or electric AC
Nice
i took mine apart its a bitch to put back together :(
Many thanks!
Thank you!!
Nice video, super easy to understand! I enjoyed it and I'm not even certain what it's for, but now I wish I did cause now I understand how it works! Thanks man!
Thank you for your kind words, Anthony.
hoe lever is connected to external device like motor
I'm a beginner to robotics and you're video really helped me. Thank you so much 😊😊😊
Glad it helped. Good luck in your robotics discoveries!
Really wll done and I have a question: to activated a little motor cc for a ball launcher (ping pong), is possible to use Microswitch for the few seconds of rotation ?
To be honest, I'm not really sure. I looked up "Ping Pong Ball Launchers" and found many variations from a Boy Scout How-to to a 300mph cannon. The only thing I can really say is that this switch will need something to move the lever back and forth between its two states. Also, every switch has electrical ratings that must be followed for safe operation, so it depends on how much power the motor needs to operate and how big of a switch you use.
Thank you.
Thankyou for posting... good info! A question if you don't mind.
Why are these switches all rated for less than 0.5amps DC? AC rating can be higher depending on the switch, but DC is ALWAYS less than 0.5amps.
I'm using an 18v cordless drill motor to operate a winch, which draws 17amps MAX at startup... normally 6-12amps.
I'd like to add one of these switches as a limit for upward travel... to prevent binding. But there doesn't seem to be a switch in existence which is rated to handle that much current DC.
I've seen inside the switches and the contacts look plenty beefy. Beefier even than the 14ga wire I'm using which it'self is overkill.
What am I misunderstanding?
Thankyou!
all good questions, but not very easy to answer. Because of the properties of DC power, the contacts must often be made stronger. An over-simplified explanation might be to say that AC power travels in 2 directions while DC power on travels in 1. Regardless of all this, I think you might find what you're looking for if you search Grainger or similar for a "Snap Action Switch." I was able to find several rated for amounts greater than 15 amps at 20-40VDC. I hope this helps. Cecil
@@ElecInst Hey thankyou... that did help! I found one rated for 20amps DC at 14v.
www.grainger.com/product/OMRON-20A-480V-Hinge-Roller-6X290?opr=APPD&pbi=6X290&analytics=altItems
Dumb questions...
- Doing the same work, would I be drawing lower amps if I were using greater voltage... 14vDC vs my 18vDC ?
- This is not strictly speaking a "limit switch". Can I assume there will be three connections... Common, Norm Open, and Norm Closed?
And thankyou again. I'm a wood guy but I'm building a prototype of an idea and I'm a total newb with electricity.
Thanks man
to external devices like motor..
Good vedio
Already knew all this but I just wanted to say this video was very well animated and explained.
Thank you!
Could I use these in reverse so I can change polarity ?
I'm not sure what you mean. Can you explain the specifics of what you are wanting to do?
I am trying to change the polarity to a part so that it can change from positive to neutral when the switch is pushed
@@ckain5501 A switch might be part of your overall design, but using it alone would not make this possible. A switch only opens or closes a circuit. There are some instances where you may want a motor to switch direction, as example, and if you were to have two separate voltages already established (pos polarity and neg polarity), then you could supply one of these to NO and the other to NC each being directed out the common. In theory, this would be possible, but there are other factors involved like the amperage of the load and whether or not the switch is rated for it. Depending on the cost of the parts and how critical the operation of this circuit is, you may want to enlist the help of a local expert.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video! It was useful for me in order to construct my "Bimbo V.1" device: th-cam.com/video/vgfCYsiZAkE/w-d-xo.html By the way, what do you think it is actually good for?
Perhaps something like this?
th-cam.com/video/aqAUmgE3WyM/w-d-xo.html
@@ElecInst Haa Haa Haa : ) That is really cool. Well, this is for sure plan B (and maybe even more cool than actually my plan A) ..
do they make a switch in this format that acts like a toggle switch? push once and release, the yellow light stays on push it again and it goes back to the green light. thanks
Hi Wilson! I am not aware of any switch is this style that does what you are describing, but there are a couple of ways to get there: There are locking push-button switches that remain in one state until depressed, think like old stereo power buttons, also you could create what is called a "latch circuit" but requires a second switch to disconnect the power. Here are some links to review:
www.sparkfun.com/products/9808?_ga=1.31737342.1904020568.1470605093
th-cam.com/video/n7SuHDmuVUk/w-d-xo.html
Good Luck!
Top notch video. Thank you
great video exactly what I needed to know cause i want to control a red and green light to know when a door is open from a distance thanks alot
Glad it helps. I have a friend who wanted to do the same thing. His kids would always leave the garage door open.
what if in resting position,after doing the continuity test the multimeter does not beep the switch has to be changed or some settings have to be made.
It can be either. Sometimes the arm needs to be bent a little in order for contacts to be made, sometimes the switch has to be replaced. Try bending the arm a little first...
A nice explanation, thanks
Super explanation..Simple
Hey i want something like this but the microswitch lever should be automatic by pressing on/off button and not being mechanical, is it possible?somehow is like a reverse system instead we push the lever to turn on/off the circuit i want to turn on/off a button and then the microswitch lever gets up/down, is it possible or is there another micro piece?thx nice video btw
Hard to know for sure. Often when an automatic system is required, people tend to look at digital circuits, which would be very different than this.
ok thx for your time, anyway is there anything that comes to your mind that could work?Ty one more time
Fantastic Cecil! You need to do many more of these! :-)
Thank you for the kind words, Dale. I have plans for more, but it's hard to choose the next component to focus on. Any suggestions?
Thanks Nice video channel
nice sir one more video sir plzz
Hai
I need a new micro switch for my wheelchair lift
Where i can get it cheap
Do a search online for the manufacturer of the switch or the vendor of the chair. It is wise to use the proper replacement.
helped me.THANKS'
microswitch can use in elevator right???
Hi Juvel,
I don't know very much about elevators, so I am uncertain if they are used there. But (in theory) a microswitch could be used in several places on an elevator, like floor-leveling, door opening/closing, and various safety applications, like determining if the escape hatch is open or closed.
How lever is connected?
Thanks, that helped!
how do you connect the limit switch to a dual switch motor
Depends on how the switches are wired, what components are in use and what you want the limit switch to do. Best to contact motor manufacturer for guidance.