Looking good. The biggest reason for newer engines not needing to be run in is they use a thinner chromoly ring rather then the older cast iron ring. The cast iron ring takes a lot more to wear and bed into the cylinder. The main thing you need to do when running in is to get heat cycles into the parts, start with lower temperatures cycles ( low load and not for a long run ) then step it up to higher temp cycles. With the final runs being very high load and very high temperature for the parts. This ensures that the parts will have clearance in all future usage.
Great to see, it is unfortunate that they couldn’t give you an exact cause for the issues but hopefully it is sorted. Looking forward to seeing out in the bush.
Hi Geoff, the engine seems to run smoothly. I was cringing when you started the engine with all the stuff on top of the wings. When I do that, everything rattles off and fall to the floor… lol
When my mate had his Holden 308 rebuilt earlier this year the engine builder ran the camshaft in for 30 minutes at 2500rpm he then dumped the oil and filter and then proceeded to rev the crap out of it tuning it. He did state that it loads the rings up to allow them to bed in instead of glazing the bore.
Also make sure it's not running to rich if it's too it can wash the cylinder walls and cause the rings and pistons to become scuffed. The engine will burn oil and be down on power, if really bad will also dilute the oil and damage the bearings.
Also make sure your using a high zinc oil this helps stop any metal on metal wear. Diesel oil is normally pretty good ck grade or less will have more zinc in it don't bother with cj grade for running in
If the ring gap is too small what normally happens is they but up against each other and continue to grow and then when they can't grow any more they will put pressure on the ring lands in the piston, this will normally break the ring lands in the pistons along with the rings and do a little bit of damage to the cylinder wall with some scrap marks. If you check the ring gap it's best I find to go to the max of the spec, this gives the rings the best chance in long duration high load applications like driving on sand etc
A fresh engine should be started and run at around 1800 rpm, this is to allow oil flung from the crankshaft to be flung up the bores to oil the pistons/rings. The fresh engine should be run like this until operating temperature is reached then it can be shut down. Then re tension the cylinder head - for cast iron heads do it hot, for aluminium do it cold. Idle thereafter is fine for tuning purposes. The key to running an engine in is to get high compression pressure on the rings as quickly into its life as you can.. This is done by using wide open throttle. Do not lug the fresh engine(or any other engine preferably) and do not give it high revs. Hit a few hills and get stuck in to it. If the engine rebuilders are mystified as to why it was burning oil I would be looking for alternative rebuilders.....
Hi nkelly9. Thank you for your advice and i have followed this, as this what is mentioned in many of the manuals I use. As for going for new engine re-builders, I don't know? I will see how this motor turns out and fingers crossed i do not have to go down that road. Cheers Geoff
Use Running in oil, varying revs & loads for 500 miles. No lugging it or over revving it. New filter and your preferred 10W40 or whatever suits your climate/season thereafter.
Hi Peter. In an ideal world, yes, but i am in the middle of nowhere out here and it is hard enough to get mineral oil let allow running in oil and 10/40 mineral based oil. If i was in a less isolated part of the world I would do as you say. Kind regards, Geoff
Ummmmm, A Quote from movie! I noticed a whisky glass next to brake fluid bottle.... I hope you did not drink that by mistake. It is same colour! !!?? That might explains you are quite sharp even in the middles of night!? I hope motor is fixed!
Should have performed a leak down test prior to teardown. That would have told you rings or head. All the ring gap spec from Land Rover are fairly large. And would have been checked at rebuild.
I also have an SU carb conversion on my Turner engined S2. It’s transferred the vehicle.
Looking good.
The biggest reason for newer engines not needing to be run in is they use a thinner chromoly ring rather then the older cast iron ring.
The cast iron ring takes a lot more to wear and bed into the cylinder.
The main thing you need to do when running in is to get heat cycles into the parts, start with lower temperatures cycles ( low load and not for a long run ) then step it up to higher temp cycles. With the final runs being very high load and very high temperature for the parts.
This ensures that the parts will have clearance in all future usage.
Tentative HOORAY!!! Glad things are finally progressing.
Great to see, it is unfortunate that they couldn’t give you an exact cause for the issues but hopefully it is sorted. Looking forward to seeing out in the bush.
Hi Geoff, the engine seems to run smoothly. I was cringing when you started the engine with all the stuff on top of the wings. When I do that, everything rattles off and fall to the floor… lol
When my mate had his Holden 308 rebuilt earlier this year the engine builder ran the camshaft in for 30 minutes at 2500rpm he then dumped the oil and filter and then proceeded to rev the crap out of it tuning it. He did state that it loads the rings up to allow them to bed in instead of glazing the bore.
Also make sure it's not running to rich if it's too it can wash the cylinder walls and cause the rings and pistons to become scuffed. The engine will burn oil and be down on power, if really bad will also dilute the oil and damage the bearings.
Also make sure your using a high zinc oil this helps stop any metal on metal wear. Diesel oil is normally pretty good ck grade or less will have more zinc in it don't bother with cj grade for running in
If the ring gap is too small what normally happens is they but up against each other and continue to grow and then when they can't grow any more they will put pressure on the ring lands in the piston, this will normally break the ring lands in the pistons along with the rings and do a little bit of damage to the cylinder wall with some scrap marks.
If you check the ring gap it's best I find to go to the max of the spec, this gives the rings the best chance in long duration high load applications like driving on sand etc
Hi Mark. Thank you for your advice and interesting facts about the piston rings in newer vehicles. Many thanks, kind regards Geoff
Ive been waiting for this one!!
A fresh engine should be started and run at around 1800 rpm, this is to allow oil flung from the crankshaft to be flung up the bores to oil the pistons/rings. The fresh engine should be run like this until operating temperature is reached then it can be shut down. Then re tension the cylinder head - for cast iron heads do it hot, for aluminium do it cold.
Idle thereafter is fine for tuning purposes.
The key to running an engine in is to get high compression pressure on the rings as quickly into its life as you can..
This is done by using wide open throttle.
Do not lug the fresh engine(or any other engine preferably) and do not give it high revs.
Hit a few hills and get stuck in to it.
If the engine rebuilders are mystified as to why it was burning oil I would be looking for alternative rebuilders.....
Hi nkelly9. Thank you for your advice and i have followed this, as this what is mentioned in many of the manuals I use. As for going for new engine re-builders, I don't know? I will see how this motor turns out and fingers crossed i do not have to go down that road. Cheers Geoff
Use Running in oil, varying revs & loads for 500 miles. No lugging it or over revving it. New filter and your preferred 10W40 or whatever suits your climate/season thereafter.
Hi Peter. In an ideal world, yes, but i am in the middle of nowhere out here and it is hard enough to get mineral oil let allow running in oil and 10/40 mineral based oil. If i was in a less isolated part of the world I would do as you say. Kind regards, Geoff
Magnificent.
Ummmmm, A Quote from movie! I noticed a whisky glass next to brake fluid bottle.... I hope you did not drink that by mistake. It is same colour! !!?? That might explains you are quite sharp even in the middles of night!? I hope motor is fixed!
Is there a way to watch the TV series in the States?
Hi Eddie. All series will be showcase on Patreon, then TH-cam and the TV networks. That way no one misses out. Cheers Geoff
Where did you get the mintex brake shoes geoff?
Hi Matt. I got them through John Craddock. Cheers Geoff
Should have performed a leak down test prior to teardown. That would have told you rings or head. All the ring gap spec from Land Rover are fairly large. And would have been checked at rebuild.
Hi Tom. Yes and leak down test was completed and compression test, as mentioned in part 2. Cheers Geoff