Thank you!! I clean it three times or more per season with lime away, and I am a meticulous pool owner constantly skimming, checking levels, brushing, and backwashing. 38,000 gallon gunite in full sun but surrounded by trees on two sides. We got 5 full years out of ours, in southern Maryland, pump running 24/7 from May to November. I searched everywhere and I hate watching videos but yours was exactly what I needed to know. THANKS!!!
We had the check cell message. We have a 15x29 pool with avg depth of 4.5 ft inground . So I’m guessing around 15,000gallons. We just replaced the cell ourselves after purchasing from Amazon. What should we set our chlorination percentage at on the panel?
I replaced my cell about 1.5 years ago. Is there any other causes, like pool shocking after rainfall and earthworms appearing at the bottom of the pool this past winter, that could be affecting the readings?
I have the system and I’ve had to replace the salt cell about once a year for the last five years. No one will take responsibility as for why they are going bad so fast. My pool guy claims he is cleaning them regularly. My repair guy says that it could be, my water causing it to go bad, i.e. perhaps the pH is not right. What can I do to get to the bottom of this?
I am getting the Waiting Check Cell Message on my Jandy TruClear control panel. I know that if the cell is clean and the salt is at the correct level that this could mean I have a bad cell. However, I think it could mean the circuit board in the control panel could be bad as well. Before buying a new salt cell, I want to determine which one is the culprit. I have a multimeter and plan to test the resistance across the salt cell by removing the cord from the control panel and testing the leads at the end of the cord. I know that if it is open circuit that the cell is bad. If it is not open circuit, can you tell me what the resistance should read across the cell if it is clean and is a good cell? Thanks!
Thanks for this. Mine is saying “lo temp/lo salt” (though temp is and has been well above 60 F for months). My pool guy recommended a replacement (and seems to be charging $150 - $200 to install, which it looks like took you about three minutes). A couple of Qs: Does the constant lo temp/lo salt indicator suggest to you a replacement (mine is from 2019, which is at the end of its life), or might it be something within the box on the wall? Also, if I replace the cell myself (versus using a jandy dealer), does that void the warranty? Thanks!
@@befmx31yes, I had to replace it. Pool guy tried getting me to pay him $250 to install it. When I asked if i was missing something (since it seemed like a pretty straightforward unplug/plug in and twist off/twist on installation), he got all offended, stating that I was trying to ask him to share information he uses to make a living. Didn’t pay him and didn’t retain his company this summer. And knock on wood, the new one I installed still works.
@@Joetorious1 Thanks for the reply. That is pretty funny about the pool guy. Gotta keep those "trade secrets" secret I guess. Thanks again. Gonna order it today.
I have not gotten around to getting a C02 System. I would say unless your pool is very large and the pH is completely out of control you can usually manage it with Borates at 50 ppm and muriatic acid.
Just had a check cell message on a brand new system. Turned out that one leg of the circuit breaker in the electrical panel was not working meaning the unit was only getting 120 volts instead of 240 volts. The display on the power center will work this way but not the salt cell itself. Check your breaker if cleaning does not fix the issue.
Hello. I’ve done everything possible to stop getting the message “check cell”. It probably needs to be replaced. The best price I can’t find is just over $1100. I can’t afford this at the moment. Is there a way to make chlorine without the salt cell?
I’ve honestly looked everywhere, I’m in Canada. $625.99 is the cheapest. My dilemma is that I can’t get anyone out to take a look at the system. Busy time of year. So if it’s not the cell then I’m out the $. I’ve followed all the advice, clean the cell, etc but the check cell message just flashes. Until I know for sure, can I add chlorine somehow? I need to get rid of this green algae and get my kids swimming!
@@olivasrobert still seeing it - haven't solved it, believe it or not. everyone I ask says that it's just what it says, some sort of pressure issue. Seems that flow is fine to me. Likely going to have to call in a professional. You figure anything out?
What would be a reason that my salt cell is not working if all other things are visibly OK to include the water test and the control panel? The control panel says chlorinating, but there are no bubbles showing in the window.. it’s a brand new salt cell.
@@SPL I used a hammer and two screwdrivers. It’s still not coming off. I now have to call an expensive maintenance person. I twisted the plate and it’s just jiggly stuck. Maybe a build up inside. It’s not elbow grease.
![BABYMONSTER - 'DRIP' M/V REACTION [WAS NOT EXPECTING THIS!!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t0Lpgr1jo3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you!! I clean it three times or more per season with lime away, and I am a meticulous pool owner constantly skimming, checking levels, brushing, and backwashing. 38,000 gallon gunite in full sun but surrounded by trees on two sides. We got 5 full years out of ours, in southern Maryland, pump running 24/7 from May to November. I searched everywhere and I hate watching videos but yours was exactly what I needed to know. THANKS!!!
We had the check cell message. We have a 15x29 pool with avg depth of 4.5 ft inground . So I’m guessing around 15,000gallons. We just replaced the cell ourselves after purchasing from Amazon. What should we set our chlorination percentage at on the panel?
Start at 100% and then dial it down after getting the desired chlorine level.
What if you have a new Jandy that’s showing the check cell message? It’s only about 6 months old.
It has a 3-yeat warranty. Call Jandy.
I replaced my cell about 1.5 years ago. Is there any other causes, like pool shocking after rainfall and earthworms appearing at the bottom of the pool this past winter, that could be affecting the readings?
I have the system and I’ve had to replace the salt cell about once a year for the last five years. No one will take responsibility as for why they are going bad so fast. My pool guy claims he is cleaning them regularly. My repair guy says that it could be, my water causing it to go bad, i.e. perhaps the pH is not right. What can I do to get to the bottom of this?
I am getting the Waiting Check Cell Message on my Jandy TruClear control panel. I know that if the cell is clean and the salt is at the correct level that this could mean I have a bad cell. However, I think it could mean the circuit board in the control panel could be bad as well. Before buying a new salt cell, I want to determine which one is the culprit. I have a multimeter and plan to test the resistance across the salt cell by removing the cord from the control panel and testing the leads at the end of the cord. I know that if it is open circuit that the cell is bad. If it is not open circuit, can you tell me what the resistance should read across the cell if it is clean and is a good cell? Thanks!
It could be the cell if it is 3 years or older.
Thanks for this. Mine is saying “lo temp/lo salt” (though temp is and has been well above 60 F for months). My pool guy recommended a replacement (and seems to be charging $150 - $200 to install, which it looks like took you about three minutes). A couple of Qs: Does the constant lo temp/lo salt indicator suggest to you a replacement (mine is from 2019, which is at the end of its life), or might it be something within the box on the wall? Also, if I replace the cell myself (versus using a jandy dealer), does that void the warranty? Thanks!
Might be the end of the cell life. Only way to know for sure is to replace it.
Mine doing the very same thing. Really hate to spend 400.00 bucks to see if that fixed it. Did you replace your cell and did it fix the error? Thanks.
@@befmx31yes, I had to replace it. Pool guy tried getting me to pay him $250 to install it. When I asked if i was missing something (since it seemed like a pretty straightforward unplug/plug in and twist off/twist on installation), he got all offended, stating that I was trying to ask him to share information he uses to make a living. Didn’t pay him and didn’t retain his company this summer. And knock on wood, the new one I installed still works.
@@Joetorious1 Thanks for the reply. That is pretty funny about the pool guy. Gotta keep those "trade secrets" secret I guess. Thanks again. Gonna order it today.
Wanting to get your input about CO2 system for pools to automate PH balance. Have you made or discussed this in a video? Thanks!
I have not gotten around to getting a C02 System. I would say unless your pool is very large and the pH is completely out of control you can usually manage it with Borates at 50 ppm and muriatic acid.
What’s the best method to clean it? How often etc. thanks
I've got a cleaning video on my Channel.
Do these have a built in flow switch? Getting a No flow error but it’s getting plenty of flow.
I believe the flow switch is built in. Check the wires going into the power unit, maybe you have a loose wire.
Just had a check cell message on a brand new system. Turned out that one leg of the circuit breaker in the electrical panel was not working meaning the unit was only getting 120 volts instead of 240 volts. The display on the power center will work this way but not the salt cell itself. Check your breaker if cleaning does not fix the issue.
Pretty rare but glad you got it worked out!
According to the tech who found the issue, you'd be surprised. Based on how fast he figured it out I believe it when he says he's seen it before.
Hello. I’ve done everything possible to stop getting the message “check cell”. It probably needs to be replaced. The best price I can’t find is just over $1100. I can’t afford this at the moment. Is there a way to make chlorine without the salt cell?
Cell runs about $400 on various sites, part number to search is R0693900. I'm installing one that just arrived at this price.
I think you are looking at the entire system - unless you are somewhere like Hawaii that is. 😜👍
I’ve honestly looked everywhere, I’m in Canada. $625.99 is the cheapest. My dilemma is that I can’t get anyone out to take a look at the system. Busy time of year. So if it’s not the cell then I’m out the $. I’ve followed all the advice, clean the cell, etc but the check cell message just flashes. Until I know for sure, can I add chlorine somehow? I need to get rid of this green algae and get my kids swimming!
@@diannalandry5581 If it is less than 3 years old Jandy may warranty the cell for you.
I'm getting a "No Flow" on this new unit now. Flow is fine, backflushed, cell is clean. 1 year old now...what else could be going on here?
Any luck on the No flow issue? I'm getting the same msg on my unit. Thanks!
@@olivasrobert still seeing it - haven't solved it, believe it or not. everyone I ask says that it's just what it says, some sort of pressure issue. Seems that flow is fine to me. Likely going to have to call in a professional. You figure anything out?
So, replacing this is around $600, or am I looking in the wrong shops? Mine is giving me the dreaded “check cell” code right now
I am seeing the cell for $400 - Jandy Cell Replacement R0693900
@@SPL thanks! got it for $440 shipped. funny thing, Amz magically matched that price right after I searched it 🤖
I have a new pool and haven’t used my salt system but fired it up said no flow. Help?
Usually in the first 2-3 minutes it will say that. Or if the pump is running at too low a speed. Try running it for awhile and see if that disappears.
Hey, Did you figure this out? Got a new pool and my unit is saying no flow. Thanks!
What would be a reason that my salt cell is not working if all other things are visibly OK to include the water test and the control panel? The control panel says chlorinating, but there are no bubbles showing in the window.. it’s a brand new salt cell.
Maybe check the salt level.
My cell is stuck on Standby mode and isnt responding to power button? What do I do?
Try turning the power off to it for 3 minutes and see if it resets.
Need to tell them to clean inside cell housing before installing new one it gets some build up in there.
Good call! 👍
I can’t get my lid off the salt cell. I twisted and then lifted but can’t get it off
A little elbow grease should do it. Pull up hard
@@SPL I used a hammer and two screwdrivers. It’s still not coming off. I now have to call an expensive maintenance person. I twisted the plate and it’s just jiggly stuck. Maybe a build up inside. It’s not elbow grease.
I have one on my route first one I've seen in ten years of service to be honest I don't like salt system pools at all
not getting an error message, but its salt system not generating choline....but it is 4 years old
Might be too cold. The water might be below 60 degrees. At least it is here.
@@SPL I don't think so. Heated pool never below 79degrees while open. but thanks
Thanks again for the videos!
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺⛳🎳