Just an additional detail on this sword - It says Prosser 'maker to the King', so we know it is pre-Victorian. This form of hilt was introduced technically in 1821, but does not seem to have become widespread until about 1823, so a more accurate dating for the sword would be c.1823-1837.
@@scholagladiatoria you should try to scrape the rust off with a piece of brass plate, actually you can use stainless steel also(de commissioned teaspoon, butter knife ) . .Use water on rust, keeping it moist. I use this technique with luck on antique firearms.
For me it’s an expression of love in the purest meaning. Watching this, I completely relate. Spending hours upon hours to bring out the best in a piece, whatever it may be. Thank you for sharing and thank you for all the great content that you create.
Quick-ish answers to some of the questions you raised about rust: "Rust" typically refers to a range of iron oxides and oxyhydroxides. You're right that some of these can have a higher hardness than some steels. What kind(s) you get when iron oxidizes depends on the temperature, pressure, water availability (known to chemists as "activity") and oxygen availability (known as "fugacity"). That's considering just iron-water-oxygen. Other factors like elements in the steel, electrolytes in the water, and pH/eH can be in play too. An engineer could tell you much more, as I understand corrosion is a big topic.
Please more medieval content! I won't even be picky as to which specific topic. Just please give us more content regarding the period when the sword, and its symbolism, were at its most meaningful, its most special.
Matt, I don't know if you've ever addressed this, but what are the insides of these old scabbards like? Are they as rusted as the outsides or is there a lining that keeps the blade away from the metal scabbard? Cheers
I have a tulwar with a serviceable hilt, but it does rattle, so I'd be interested to see if there's anything that could be done for that (and really, tulwars seem relatively cheap so maybe they're more relevant for these kinds of how-to videos)
I have one exactly like it, but no signs of etching left, if it ever had any. it`s a lovely sword in the hand, feels so light yet very capable of making serious cuts with that wide blade.
Wonderful restoration video! @21:00 at that point, did you consider soaking it with WD40 and letting it sit for a while? Perhaps even soak the hilt and leave it overnight in WD40?
Hey Matt, on Cars you can use something called Fertan Rust-converter, it basically removes a pat of the rust and forms the rest into a oxide layer that protects. Downside it will blacken /blueing the steel, so probably a good thing for scabbards, maybe not so much for blades.
Do any collectors or distributors like yourself do restoration to etching? Correct me of I am mistaken, but etching is done by coating in wax and then removing some of the wax, then splashing acid on so that the exposed metal is made dark. Could one in theory (and certainly with lots of research and practice) restore etching from what lightly remains?
I had a very rusty scabbard on a victorian civil staff royal engineers sword. I found a small brass rotary wire wheel in a dremel with a lot off wd 40 removed nearly 95% of the rust. The scabbard is now clean and protected with a clear wax.
There's a video comparing different makes of these anti-rust sprays in which they they screwed different materials and manually oxidized them, then sprayed the screws. The relevant part here is that the makes that worked well penetrated completely in just seconds.
Just a thought: the difference in the consistency/difficulty removing various sorts of rust might reflect either the oxidation state of the iron in the alloy (i.e. Iron (II), Iron (IV), etc.), the trace elements in the particular steel used to make the sword/scabbard/whatever, or some combination of those factors, time, humidity, etc. I'm not a chemist or metallurgist, though, so that's just a bit of an educated guess.
Given the oil and detritus on the sword do you not try and clean inside the scabbard too to prevent it getting covered again by the residue inside when re sheathed?
What do you believe was the original finish of the hilt and scabbard? I have seen a lot of amazing bluing restorations using a soft wire wheel on a table mounted motor. Have you attempted this on any restorations? Great videos. Thanks
Hey Matt I love your restoration videos, but is there a problem with re-etching an old sword like this, or are you just so careful not to disrupt the original etching because the sword is so old? Thanks in advance, and keep up the good work!
What do you do when your scabbard is one side is in fairly decent condition but the other side is 80% dride shark skin that's almost all gone. What would you suggest
Matt, have you tried a chemical rust remover? And habe you thought of sand blasting the scabbed? There are many different mediums used other than sand and aren't so damaging.
Here in USA, I've always heard that when it comes to arms and armor, the WORST thing you can do is clean it because it removes the patina and significantly undermines the object's market value. As a dealer, you are suggesting that is NOT the case?
It depends on a wide range of factors. Rust, obviously, should be stabilized and potentially removed. Whether to leave patina, how much to leave, and where, is a very complicated topic. Remember though that a sword that was looked after and cleaned regularly from new, would still look new. Patina = neglect. The biggest problem comes when old objects are BADLY cleaned or restored - a well restored item should not look restored. It should look like it was always well looked after and patina never formed.
@@scholagladiatoria That makes sense. I can see how these considerations are context-dependent. Thank you for taking the time to compose a thoughtful reply on a 5-year old video. That speaks volumes for your genuine love of this content. As a grad student myself, I very much appreciate your passion.
The common forms of related red rust in environments with adequate water and oxygen (goethitic to jarrositic) are softer than steel by a large margin. Less common form of red to black rust in low moisture environments is hematitic and of comparable hardness to steel. This form is also common if objects have experienced fire or developed rust in a moist environment then been stored in a hot dry environment. Most green rusts are softer than steel. A rust remover that I've had good success with, though slower, is molasses: non-toxic, highly effective, gentle on the object, reduces and chelates the oxides and hydroxides, but you don't want to get it in areas you cant clean it out, and not on organic parts.
I think you should consult with someone about lighting in your videos, especially when filming your swords close up. I think that would be the next big leap in video quality.
Maybe electrolysis would shift scabbard rust, if interior of scabbard either does not need protection from water solution immersion or if it can be sealed to protect interior
Howdy Amigo! How Are You Doing Today? Are You Familiar With "Red Oxide Primer" Directly From Hell! How Can I Remove It? I Have Tried Everything! 200 Hours Of My Elbow Grease So Far Plus it's Highly Toxic!
Try a 8" wire wheel with .005" wire. This very fine wheel does not pull the underlying metal so it never appears as if you used a wheel. It's also much quicker. You won't find these wheels at your average hardware store, find a company that deals in better tools, machining etc. Never use a brass brush with acids as the colour transfers to the steel.
None of my business, but... Given the amount of labor, will you actually turn a profit on a sword like this? Or do you just disregard the "hypothetical" cost of your time?
That's one of the advantages of having a hobby as a day job - if it works, it works and that is a reward of itself, if it works and it's cost effective then that is win/win.
Might be an idea to put on a mask ,you maybe inhaling Victorian bacteria ( maybe the original owner wasn't to keen on washing his hands after handling his beef bayonet)
have you cosidered shot blasting the rust off works great also your green scrubbe is called scotch brite they make pads for cleaning that you can use in a drill also better than hand jobbing it www.3m.com/3M/en_US/scotch-brite-industrial-us
Brillo is steel wool. I use it in my crack pipe. You are using a scouring pad. Hey kids you can learn things doing drugs! EDIT.. Brillo is stainless steel not steel wool. So kids drugs are bad mkay!
Have you tried using Krud Cutter? This video does a nice job of comparing a number of rust removal options, some of which seems a lot less labor intensive -- and results in less abrasion -- than the Baristol. th-cam.com/video/6-MC_ZEXQbw/w-d-xo.html
this was cringe to watch matt there are way more creative and intelligent ways of removing iron oxide from things than scrubbing like chemical solutions or electrolysis respect for the effort though more than one way to skin a cat
I have spoken quite a bit about chemical options, including in this video. Chemicals have drawbacks - mostly that they tend to permanently stain the metal often quite weird colours. I only use chemicals as a last resort (as in this video!). Electrolysis is absolutely not an option for a sword with organic elements on the grip and inside the scabbard.
I'm pretty sure a war for independence sounds more accurate than mutiny. When one forcibly occupies a nation and subordinates them against their will, and they revolt years later, they aren't traitors engaging in mutiny so much as freedom fighters regaining their sovereignty. I'd say that the US war of independence was more of a mutiny than the Indian one, since that was carried out by British colonists who owed allegiance to the crown from day one. It's just that the 13 colonies won pretty decisively, so Britain didn't get the name the conflict.
I think, the issue is that there wasn't one unified "Indian" nation at that stage; just a scattering of principalities. A unified "Indian" sub-continent is a post WW2 concept. Prior to that, it was more like Europe, a variety of countries speaking different languages and with widely varied cultures. There's a push by modern Hindu nationalists to push an Indian (Hindu) identity further into the past, a lot further than it has any historical basis. It is used to justify oppression of minorities and local independence movements.
In the Indian case it was much more a mutiny than a war of independence or a revolution, because it was primarily a mutiny of existing military units, backed by local elites hoping to gain power thereby, and not very much by any nascent Indian national populist sentiment. If there had been any really significant degree of the latter, then the authorities would probably have been unable to restore order with such relative ease, or at all. But the best reason for making a point of sticking to established British terminology in this kind of thing is to refuse to give in to the anti-British and anti-conservative sentiment that drives the attempt to relabel the past. It's understandable for Indians to want to make up fantasies about their history to promote modern patriotic agendas, and if they want to do so then good luck to them, but there's no reason for Brits and neutrals to go along with them.
Mark Marksson If i'm remember correctly, US war of independence was also kicked off by people from the ruling elite of the 13 colonies. They were the ones that stood the most to gain from overthrowing the british, and they were the ones that actively roused public sentiment against them. So this Indian “mutiny” being driven by the local elite doesn’t preclude it from being more accurately called a war of independence. If the units were made up of locals, then it was a rebellion. I highly doubt the general local population enjoyed being treated as second class citizens in their own homes. Calling it a mutiny just adds the connotation that the troops that were rebelling owed the crown their allegiance and were betraying it. But the British Empire’s rule over that territory wasn’t exactly legitimate. The situation was like if USA took over Iraq right now, named it one of its territories, and started administering it and deriving economic benefits from its local (oil) industry, while treating Iraqi citizens as second class compared to American citizens. If they were a military force a conquered people trying to take back their homeland, I really don’t see how that isn’t a war of independence. The fact that it failed doesn’t change what it was. The victors write the history, and part of that includes naming it whatever they want. But there’s nothing wrong with renaming something later to more accurately reflect what happened. And this isn’t about being Anti-British. I’m from Canada, and as far as I’m aware, we really don’t have any anti-British sentiment here. We even share the same Queen, and unlike the Australians, we’ve never had a referendum about whether or not to abolish the monarchy.
@@lucidnonsense942 I wouldn't be surprised that they're trying to revise history to fit a narrative in order to serve a modern political end. That said, it doesn't really matter whether the people of the region were organized into one nation or several before the British Empire entered the picture. If they are a conquered people (or peoples) who tried to win freedom from an Imperial power through war, I'd call it a war for independence.
Were there no wars of independence from their Persian or Afghani conquerors? The 'mutiny' was just that and only in part of 1 of 3 parts of India and the issue was over bad officering and terms of service. Put down with the support of loyal sepoys and other local ruler's troops and troops raised from the NW frontier. it really was a mutiny not a war of independence. China and the USA for example pass off their conquered territories as not an 'empire' but part of the state just because they are contiguous.
Just an additional detail on this sword - It says Prosser 'maker to the King', so we know it is pre-Victorian. This form of hilt was introduced technically in 1821, but does not seem to have become widespread until about 1823, so a more accurate dating for the sword would be c.1823-1837.
Restoration but no lucy? What madness is this
Player: Matt uses oiled cloth on "Rusty Scabbard" ... ... ...
lol
It's all a matter of context. LOL
Golden Eagle 😅😂🤣😂🤣😂😅Dead
@@scholagladiatoria you should try to scrape the rust off with a piece of brass plate, actually you can use stainless steel also(de commissioned teaspoon, butter knife ) . .Use water on rust, keeping it moist.
I use this technique with luck on antique firearms.
For me it’s an expression of love in the purest meaning. Watching this, I completely relate. Spending hours upon hours to bring out the best in a piece, whatever it may be. Thank you for sharing and thank you for all the great content that you create.
Quick-ish answers to some of the questions you raised about rust: "Rust" typically refers to a range of iron oxides and oxyhydroxides. You're right that some of these can have a higher hardness than some steels. What kind(s) you get when iron oxidizes depends on the temperature, pressure, water availability (known to chemists as "activity") and oxygen availability (known as "fugacity"). That's considering just iron-water-oxygen. Other factors like elements in the steel, electrolytes in the water, and pH/eH can be in play too. An engineer could tell you much more, as I understand corrosion is a big topic.
Please more medieval content! I won't even be picky as to which specific topic. Just please give us more content regarding the period when the sword, and its symbolism, were at its most meaningful, its most special.
That scabbard sacrificed itself to protect this beautiful sword. Press F to pay respects.
F
F
F
F
Eff. I'm so unique!
Matt, I don't know if you've ever addressed this, but what are the insides of these old scabbards like? Are they as rusted as the outsides or is there a lining that keeps the blade away from the metal scabbard? Cheers
Science
I've discovered this channel only recently. It is absolutely fascinating I'll have to start working through your back catalogue.
This video inspired me to oil my own swords. It been over a year luckily they still look pretty good.
watching this while cleaning my antique sabre, purchased from easton antique arms. joy! :D
Thanks for sharing .
Thank you, these videos have helped me a lot with my collection
Hey could you post a video on changing hilts of tulwars
Yep +1
I have a tulwar with a serviceable hilt, but it does rattle, so I'd be interested to see if there's anything that could be done for that (and really, tulwars seem relatively cheap so maybe they're more relevant for these kinds of how-to videos)
I've only done it once, so I don't really consider myself any sort of expert.
I have one exactly like it, but no signs of etching left, if it ever had any. it`s a lovely sword in the hand, feels so light yet very capable of making serious cuts with that wide blade.
Wonderful restoration video! @21:00 at that point, did you consider soaking it with WD40 and letting it sit for a while? Perhaps even soak the hilt and leave it overnight in WD40?
just a tip, make it moist and use a much larger brush, saves you loads of time and energy
Hey Matt, on Cars you can use something called Fertan Rust-converter, it basically removes a pat of the rust and forms the rest into a oxide layer that protects. Downside it will blacken /blueing the steel, so probably a good thing for scabbards, maybe not so much for blades.
Have you tried CLR. It gets rust off very well. Also Naval Jelly works as well, but can also remove any blueing from the Steel.
How about vinegar to dissolve the rust?
Really interesting once again, thanks for sharing Matt... Love that sword by the way, it looks fabulous!!
Hi Matt, I have an old sword very similar to what you have there, however I don’t have a scabbard. Can these be sourced separately?
Thanks Sammy
Thanks, useful & fun vid! Look forward very much to seeing more of that sword...
Do any collectors or distributors like yourself do restoration to etching? Correct me of I am mistaken, but etching is done by coating in wax and then removing some of the wax, then splashing acid on so that the exposed metal is made dark. Could one in theory (and certainly with lots of research and practice) restore etching from what lightly remains?
I had a very rusty scabbard on a victorian civil staff royal engineers sword. I found a small brass rotary wire wheel in a dremel with a lot off wd 40 removed nearly 95% of the rust. The scabbard is now clean and protected with a clear wax.
There's a video comparing different makes of these anti-rust sprays in which they they screwed different materials and manually oxidized them, then sprayed the screws. The relevant part here is that the makes that worked well penetrated completely in just seconds.
Just a thought: the difference in the consistency/difficulty removing various sorts of rust might reflect either the oxidation state of the iron in the alloy (i.e. Iron (II), Iron (IV), etc.), the trace elements in the particular steel used to make the sword/scabbard/whatever, or some combination of those factors, time, humidity, etc.
I'm not a chemist or metallurgist, though, so that's just a bit of an educated guess.
Given the oil and detritus on the sword do you not try and clean inside the scabbard too to prevent it getting covered again by the residue inside when re sheathed?
What do you believe was the original finish of the hilt and scabbard? I have seen a lot of amazing bluing restorations using a soft wire wheel on a table mounted motor. Have you attempted this on any restorations? Great videos. Thanks
Hey Matt I love your restoration videos, but is there a problem with re-etching an old sword like this, or are you just so careful not to disrupt the original etching because the sword is so old? Thanks in advance, and keep up the good work!
What do you do when your scabbard is one side is in fairly decent condition but the other side is 80% dride shark skin that's almost all gone. What would you suggest
Matt, have you tried a chemical rust remover? And habe you thought of sand blasting the scabbed? There are many different mediums used other than sand and aren't so damaging.
Would you ever consider the tannic acid treatment on rust that they use in museum conservation?
Matt, could you articulate concisely what are the dangers of the chemical approach?
Very beautiful sword.
Many times a product called (in the US) called "Naval Jelly" . It's made for specifically for tough rust removal and not to damage the base metal.
Where du you always find those sword? I searching everywhere in my reach but I don´t find anything.
Here in USA, I've always heard that when it comes to arms and armor, the WORST thing you can do is clean it because it removes the patina and significantly undermines the object's market value. As a dealer, you are suggesting that is NOT the case?
It depends on a wide range of factors. Rust, obviously, should be stabilized and potentially removed. Whether to leave patina, how much to leave, and where, is a very complicated topic. Remember though that a sword that was looked after and cleaned regularly from new, would still look new. Patina = neglect. The biggest problem comes when old objects are BADLY cleaned or restored - a well restored item should not look restored. It should look like it was always well looked after and patina never formed.
@@scholagladiatoria That makes sense. I can see how these considerations are context-dependent. Thank you for taking the time to compose a thoughtful reply on a 5-year old video. That speaks volumes for your genuine love of this content. As a grad student myself, I very much appreciate your passion.
The common forms of related red rust in environments with adequate water and oxygen (goethitic to jarrositic) are softer than steel by a large margin. Less common form of red to black rust in low moisture environments is hematitic and of comparable hardness to steel. This form is also common if objects have experienced fire or developed rust in a moist environment then been stored in a hot dry environment. Most green rusts are softer than steel. A rust remover that I've had good success with, though slower, is molasses: non-toxic, highly effective, gentle on the object, reduces and chelates the oxides and hydroxides, but you don't want to get it in areas you cant clean it out, and not on organic parts.
Or, even catsup.
(...it's the vinegar.)
Is the inside of the scabbard ever cleaned ?
I think you should consult with someone about lighting in your videos, especially when filming your swords close up. I think that would be the next big leap in video quality.
I wouldn't call that a Brillo pad, they're wire wool pa's impregnated with soap. That's a scouring pad.
That's what I thought.
Antique Sword Restoration ASMR
Buffing the sword with his head makes both shiney
Hey Matt, when is the sword cleaning ASMR channel launching?
This is the first video of it. Starting with the most annoying sound ever at 9:15
😁
Sharpened?
Evapo-Rust or electrolysis something to try
Reminds me of Blue Peter in the old days with Valerie Singleton.
Maybe electrolysis would shift scabbard rust, if interior of scabbard either does not need protection from water solution immersion or if it can be sealed to protect interior
Howdy Amigo! How Are You Doing Today? Are You Familiar With "Red Oxide Primer" Directly From Hell! How Can I Remove It? I Have Tried Everything! 200 Hours Of My Elbow Grease So Far Plus it's Highly Toxic!
Try a 8" wire wheel with .005" wire. This very fine wheel does not pull the underlying metal so it never appears as if you used a wheel. It's also much quicker. You won't find these wheels at your average hardware store, find a company that deals in better tools, machining etc.
Never use a brass brush with acids as the colour transfers to the steel.
"First Indian war of independence"? Hmm. I like that name better.
None of my business, but... Given the amount of labor, will you actually turn a profit on a sword like this? Or do you just disregard the "hypothetical" cost of your time?
That's one of the advantages of having a hobby as a day job - if it works, it works and that is a reward of itself, if it works and it's cost effective then that is win/win.
Why not use vinegar to remove the rust? Would it mess up the metals and other softer materials?
Vinegar is relatively acidic so it may damage the metal
White vinegar is one of the options, yes. Though purpose-made rust remover is more powerful and quicker.
Another option is full fat Coca Cola incidentally.
Whatever you use, remember to neutralise afterwards, for example with baking soda.
No , i use it all the time you can always dilute it if you are worried.
I like to use toothpaste, is a very mild abrasive and it leaves everything smelling minty :)
In the American Navy we call the greeny weenies. USN has special words for all kinds of things
Would you mind making a video restoring Neanderthal weaponry?
Stones maybe dont ned it
Might be an idea to put on a mask ,you maybe inhaling Victorian bacteria ( maybe the original owner wasn't to keen on washing his hands after handling his beef bayonet)
Can’t you steam rust to convert it into black rust and then just wipe it off ??
You would think people would have at least oiled or greased the blades before they put them up in the attic or out in the shed.
C’mon now all restoration videos must contain Lucy and Matt together.
Restoration videos without Lucy Easton are not as fun to watch. :/
Ooooowww ,rusty hilt and a rusty scabbard. Keep the dirty talk up ,I likey!
Nice video matt what are opinions on socialism, would like to know writing a essay for my politics course. TTFN me
Need a awnser soon got to hand it in tomorrow :)
Nobody calls it a “green scrubbie”
Unintentional Matt Easton ASMR
It is a rough type of rust.
just here for the asmr
Neat
have you cosidered shot blasting the rust off works great also your green scrubbe is called scotch brite they make pads for cleaning that you can use in a drill also better than hand jobbing it www.3m.com/3M/en_US/scotch-brite-industrial-us
Oh the hypocrisy of the US referring to the Indian war of independence as the Indian mutiny.
i have a some brush
Brillo is steel wool. I use it in my crack pipe. You are using a scouring pad. Hey kids you can learn things doing drugs! EDIT.. Brillo is stainless steel not steel wool. So kids drugs are bad mkay!
Have you tried using Krud Cutter? This video does a nice job of comparing a number of rust removal options, some of which seems a lot less labor intensive -- and results in less abrasion -- than the Baristol. th-cam.com/video/6-MC_ZEXQbw/w-d-xo.html
… later:
"I wouldn't usually use the belt sander on an antique, but in this case FUCK OFF RUST!!!"
Three words: vinegar, power tools
First
this was cringe to watch matt there are way more creative and intelligent ways of removing iron oxide from things than scrubbing like chemical solutions or electrolysis
respect for the effort though more than one way to skin a cat
I have spoken quite a bit about chemical options, including in this video. Chemicals have drawbacks - mostly that they tend to permanently stain the metal often quite weird colours. I only use chemicals as a last resort (as in this video!). Electrolysis is absolutely not an option for a sword with organic elements on the grip and inside the scabbard.
I'm pretty sure a war for independence sounds more accurate than mutiny. When one forcibly occupies a nation and subordinates them against their will, and they revolt years later, they aren't traitors engaging in mutiny so much as freedom fighters regaining their sovereignty. I'd say that the US war of independence was more of a mutiny than the Indian one, since that was carried out by British colonists who owed allegiance to the crown from day one. It's just that the 13 colonies won pretty decisively, so Britain didn't get the name the conflict.
I think, the issue is that there wasn't one unified "Indian" nation at that stage; just a scattering of principalities. A unified "Indian" sub-continent is a post WW2 concept. Prior to that, it was more like Europe, a variety of countries speaking different languages and with widely varied cultures. There's a push by modern Hindu nationalists to push an Indian (Hindu) identity further into the past, a lot further than it has any historical basis. It is used to justify oppression of minorities and local independence movements.
In the Indian case it was much more a mutiny than a war of independence or a revolution, because it was primarily a mutiny of existing military units, backed by local elites hoping to gain power thereby, and not very much by any nascent Indian national populist sentiment. If there had been any really significant degree of the latter, then the authorities would probably have been unable to restore order with such relative ease, or at all.
But the best reason for making a point of sticking to established British terminology in this kind of thing is to refuse to give in to the anti-British and anti-conservative sentiment that drives the attempt to relabel the past. It's understandable for Indians to want to make up fantasies about their history to promote modern patriotic agendas, and if they want to do so then good luck to them, but there's no reason for Brits and neutrals to go along with them.
Mark Marksson If i'm remember correctly, US war of independence was also kicked off by people from the ruling elite of the 13 colonies. They were the ones that stood the most to gain from overthrowing the british, and they were the ones that actively roused public sentiment against them. So this Indian “mutiny” being driven by the local elite doesn’t preclude it from being more accurately called a war of independence.
If the units were made up of locals, then it was a rebellion. I highly doubt the general local population enjoyed being treated as second class citizens in their own homes. Calling it a mutiny just adds the connotation that the troops that were rebelling owed the crown their allegiance and were betraying it. But the British Empire’s rule over that territory wasn’t exactly legitimate. The situation was like if USA took over Iraq right now, named it one of its territories, and started administering it and deriving economic benefits from its local (oil) industry, while treating Iraqi citizens as second class compared to American citizens.
If they were a military force a conquered people trying to take back their homeland, I really don’t see how that isn’t a war of independence. The fact that it failed doesn’t change what it was. The victors write the history, and part of that includes naming it whatever they want. But there’s nothing wrong with renaming something later to more accurately reflect what happened.
And this isn’t about being Anti-British. I’m from Canada, and as far as I’m aware, we really don’t have any anti-British sentiment here. We even share the same Queen, and unlike the Australians, we’ve never had a referendum about whether or not to abolish the monarchy.
@@lucidnonsense942 I wouldn't be surprised that they're trying to revise history to fit a narrative in order to serve a modern political end. That said, it doesn't really matter whether the people of the region were organized into one nation or several before the British Empire entered the picture. If they are a conquered people (or peoples) who tried to win freedom from an Imperial power through war, I'd call it a war for independence.
Were there no wars of independence from their Persian or Afghani conquerors? The 'mutiny' was just that and only in part of 1 of 3 parts of India and the issue was over bad officering and terms of service. Put down with the support of loyal sepoys and other local ruler's troops and troops raised from the NW frontier. it really was a mutiny not a war of independence. China and the USA for example pass off their conquered territories as not an 'empire' but part of the state just because they are contiguous.
oof i’m trying to clean an 1861 model 1840 artillery saber from the american civil war
Why don't you take the hilt off . Then boil it in water and use a carding wheel?