Never apologise for showing any future obvious steps, its part of our learning curve, you've taught me so much and it's really appreciated, within 4 brews I've gone from nervous apprehension to a somewhat relaxed and therapeutic process. Anyone who unboxes the new kit will be slightly daunted, but a few of your videos soon puts it into perspective. Cheers Bradley!
Great video Bradley. So many people do not understand how important the mash in and sparge is, along with a massive efficiency contribution. Keep up the great work dude.
I was having a temp issue with my brew last weekend and Bradley responded pretty quick on Facebook. Thank You Sir. Much appreciate the help you offered.
Thanks Bradley, that was useful video. I'm getting list of what I want to buy from Brewtools. How many pressure reliefs do you have in your system? Also what recirc manifold you using? I'm buying B40pro and I have doubts if 12.6'' ss brewtech manifold will fit B40pro mash tun...
Hello Bradley, just grabbed a ssbt manifold , but noticed that the hose barb on it is only 10 mm wide, how did you use it with the 19 mm elbow ? Also how do you know when to stop the sparging, can you tell the volume you are collecting when the malt pipe is sitting on top of the B80 ? Thank you for your videos !
Here's a link to it. What type of system are you using it in ? www.morebeer.com/products/ss-brewtech-mash-recirculation-manifold.html?a_aid=PortlyGentleman
Great video as usual!!! That 19mm elbow is going to be great once I get it. Can you give some info on your HLT? It looks like a great setup that will make my brewing process much more efficient and easy.
Thank you 🍻 It's pretty simple It's just a 12-gallon pot with a kegking well this heating element. I use an inkbird controller for now it works well for how much it costs 🍻
Love your instructionals. What is the thing called that you drop into the kettle before whirlpool to catch the trub, hops ? Any chance of some closer views of it ? Also where did you get it from? Thanks Duncan
Really great video PG! Quality of the video was impressive. Do you feel like you're homing in on a configuration for your B80, or do you think you'll always be tinkering around with different setups?
Thank you I really tried to improve my video production skills It takes practice like everything. I feel like that's a trip question lol truthfully part of the fun for me is being able to change things at my whim or to suit my current thinking. So truthfully there are probably some constants in my current setup. Undoubtedly there will be things Will evolve over time In my opinion that's one of the greatest benefits of Brewtools. Other people may not see this as a positive I personally love it .
Great video Bradley! Regards to mashout, how long would you calculate for this before sparging? Previously I have been doing this for 60min which I have found to be good, but recently I am down to 10minutes.
Certainly once conversion is achieved you're good to move . If you're doing a step mash then this will obviously take longer. For instance because I was brewing such a low ABV beer I'm pretty sure I could have stopped massing after about 20 minutes or so. I went longer because I use that time to do video things.
Another quality video my friend...I learn something every time i watch your vids... I did a 30 minute mash rest on my last brewday, the day prior i watched a short video from the brewery [Northern Monk here in the UK] i was doing a clone of their popular beer 'Faith' which i've had some success with, the video of a big brewery brewday showed them doing a 60 minute mash rest so i thought i'd give mine a bit longer than usual, low and behold i got an extra 2% each on BH & Mash efficiencies over my normal values...the beer is still in the FV :-) any thoughts on that?
Thanks Gary 10 minutes more for another 2% sounds pretty good to me actually. Sometimes I've let my mesh rest longer than intended just because I'm moving around cameras and whatnot. Truthfully I didn't notice that kind of increase,To be honest I don't always pay that much attention to efficiency 😬. did you set your strike temperature slightly higher to account for the longer duration resting? I often set my strike a little bit higher than my intended first mash step.
@@PortlyGentleman I set my B40 up to have a 5 deg overshoot on mashing in, eg if the recipe calls for a 66 deg mash temp i have it at 71 deg for mash in, I also gave it a slightly longer stir in than i usually do [just another minute or so] i'm brewing again this Sunday and will leave it 30 mins again to see if lightning does strike twice ;-) Thinking about the Northern Monk brewday video, the brewery was likely brewing multiple thousand litres so a longer mash rest makes sense for 100s of KGs of malts, again quality video bud...
Great video as always! I'm still dialling in my B40 setup - I don't quite seem to hit the expected pre-boil volumes, (or gravities) of the B40 profile in brewfather - what sort of grain absorption & mash thickness are you generally going with?
There's so many variables when it When it comes to efficiency. I use a lot of Mecca greatest statement, most of their malts have crazy high diastatic power.
Hi. I have my B40 set at a grain absorption rate of .85 and a mash thickness of 3.8. Hit the numbers the last three brews. Saying that I previously also had good results with the mash thickness at 3.5, but found I had to continually manage the grain bed. I have the mash tun deadspace set at 3.3L. This is 3L under the mash pipe and .3L in my default setup for the bypass. NB The kettle level reading is not the same as the amount in the kettle as there is .3L in my pipework and when I counter chill i lose another 1.2L. You should run some control tests to see how the water vollumes change on different setting and take all vplume readings taking this into account. IE. When I take my post boil volumes I know I need to add the 1.5L in my total pipework to provide the correct result. Also try adding 15 minutes to the main mash rest step. This seems to have really improved my efficiency - so far a 60 minute rest I now let stand with whirlpool on bypass for 30 minutes and then circulate through mash for 45 minutes. I do have major doubts that sparging is very efficient on these all in one systems, and one reason why I have moved to a higher mash thinkness and hence mash volume where I know I will get a full extraction. I am thinking of trying some no sparge brews as I see people like Martin Keen on Homebrew Challenge getting great results without sparging and starting to believe is a legacy of the old methods using 3V setups. If interested, I have my hourly boil off rates at 2.5 L for 1 hour and 1.8 for 90 minutes. Still fine tuning this tbh. The rate is not the same for 90 and 60 as you have the same overhead of ramping up and down the temperature for both periods. If i have to run a hopstand then I would increase this slightly. This is with a steam hat and no condenser. Boil off rates are much greater wthout the steam hat. Trub loss is currently at c. 3L but I increase if a hoppy beer due to hop absorption. This is always a gut feel tbh. I just brewed David Heath's ESB quite straightforward recipe and this resulted in a 86% mash efficiency and a 73% BH efficiency. The more hops in the beer, the more the BH efficiency should drop due to hop absorption. Hope that helps. And good luck. As Bradley says it is all about practice. David
@@adolfotavizon915 The temperature level is typically whatever your first mashed up or your only mashed up is. Obviously you could do one at a much cooler temperature if you want to would be the same thing.
Never apologise for showing any future obvious steps, its part of our learning curve, you've taught me so much and it's really appreciated, within 4 brews I've gone from nervous apprehension to a somewhat relaxed and therapeutic process. Anyone who unboxes the new kit will be slightly daunted, but a few of your videos soon puts it into perspective. Cheers Bradley!
Thank you very much 🍻
Great video Bradley. So many people do not understand how important the mash in and sparge is, along with a massive efficiency contribution.
Keep up the great work dude.
Cheers to that 🍻 Thank you very much
I was having a temp issue with my brew last weekend and Bradley responded pretty quick on Facebook. Thank You Sir. Much appreciate the help you offered.
Anytime 🍻
Nice I’ve started adding more site glasses on my setup
Thanks Bradley, that was useful video. I'm getting list of what I want to buy from Brewtools. How many pressure reliefs do you have in your system? Also what recirc manifold you using? I'm buying B40pro and I have doubts if 12.6'' ss brewtech manifold will fit B40pro mash tun...
Hello Bradley, just grabbed a ssbt manifold , but noticed that the hose barb on it is only 10 mm wide, how did you use it with the 19 mm elbow ? Also how do you know when to stop the sparging, can you tell the volume you are collecting when the malt pipe is sitting on top of the B80 ? Thank you for your videos !
Hi Bradley, Hi Luca,
I would like to know as well how to fit the hose barb 19 mm with the 10 mm of manifold.
Any tips?
Thanks!
Very good video Bradley, cheers!
Thank you very very much 🍻
So, you’re not stirring at all, after stirring in and after the mash rest? Do you vorlauf?
Very useful video thank you!
Great stuff Bradley! Have a great weekend!
Thank you You too Brewing anything this weekend ?
@@PortlyGentleman not this weekend. Doing a roof for my inlaws. How bout you?
hey! where did you get your recirculation maniflod? thanks
Here's a link to it. What type of system are you using it in ?
www.morebeer.com/products/ss-brewtech-mash-recirculation-manifold.html?a_aid=PortlyGentleman
Helpful video thanks. Didn’t understand the iso valve to the pump. If you have that closed but the pump running, doesn’t that damage the pump?
The pump has multiple paths for output It's never fully closed off for more than a second or 3 when switching valve configurations
Great video as usual!!! That 19mm elbow is going to be great once I get it. Can you give some info on your HLT? It looks like a great setup that will make my brewing process much more efficient and easy.
Thank you 🍻
It's pretty simple It's just a 12-gallon pot with a kegking well this heating element. I use an inkbird controller for now it works well for how much it costs 🍻
Love your instructionals. What is the thing called that you drop into the kettle before whirlpool to catch the trub, hops ? Any chance of some closer views of it ? Also where did you get it from? Thanks Duncan
Trubtraper
@@PortlyGentleman Thank you, not able to source one at present. Contemplating making one.
Hi !
Great vidéo
Where do you fond your recirculation manifold ?
Thank you it's the smaller ssbt
Really great video PG! Quality of the video was impressive. Do you feel like you're homing in on a configuration for your B80, or do you think you'll always be tinkering around with different setups?
Thank you I really tried to improve my video production skills It takes practice like everything. I feel like that's a trip question lol truthfully part of the fun for me is being able to change things at my whim or to suit my current thinking. So truthfully there are probably some constants in my current setup. Undoubtedly there will be things Will evolve over time In my opinion that's one of the greatest benefits of Brewtools. Other people may not see this as a positive I personally love it .
Thanks, Bradley!
Anytime 🍻
Walked away for a minute, came back and all I heard was "I just ease it in really slow. I uh, pump it."
But an excellent video all the same. :)
LoL That's a beauty of TH-cam You can always pick and choose the parts you watch 🍻
Do you let the mash dry before getting it out of the tun? As a bag user I wonder how electric users clean their stuff.
Typically once I reach my boil volume I pull the mash tun I said it aside and a tray and let it drain a little bit more then dump it in the trashcan
@@PortlyGentleman ah so raw force after it dried. Thanks
Great video Bradley! Regards to mashout, how long would you calculate for this before sparging? Previously I have been doing this for 60min which I have found to be good, but recently I am down to 10minutes.
Certainly once conversion is achieved you're good to move . If you're doing a step mash then this will obviously take longer. For instance because I was brewing such a low ABV beer I'm pretty sure I could have stopped massing after about 20 minutes or so. I went longer because I use that time to do video things.
Another quality video my friend...I learn something every time i watch your vids... I did a 30 minute mash rest on my last brewday, the day prior i watched a short video from the brewery [Northern Monk here in the UK] i was doing a clone of their popular beer 'Faith' which i've had some success with, the video of a big brewery brewday showed them doing a 60 minute mash rest so i thought i'd give mine a bit longer than usual, low and behold i got an extra 2% each on BH & Mash efficiencies over my normal values...the beer is still in the FV :-) any thoughts on that?
Thanks Gary
10 minutes more for another 2% sounds pretty good to me actually. Sometimes I've let my mesh rest longer than intended just because I'm moving around cameras and whatnot. Truthfully I didn't notice that kind of increase,To be honest I don't always pay that much attention to efficiency 😬. did you set your strike temperature slightly higher to account for the longer duration resting? I often set my strike a little bit higher than my intended first mash step.
@@PortlyGentleman I set my B40 up to have a 5 deg overshoot on mashing in, eg if the recipe calls for a 66 deg mash temp i have it at 71 deg for mash in, I also gave it a slightly longer stir in than i usually do [just another minute or so] i'm brewing again this Sunday and will leave it 30 mins again to see if lightning does strike twice ;-)
Thinking about the Northern Monk brewday video, the brewery was likely brewing multiple thousand litres so a longer mash rest makes sense for 100s of KGs of malts, again quality video bud...
Bradley, you lift the malt pipe completely before you start sparging? What's your BH or mash efficiency on average?
Very low 80s to high 70s I could definitely squeeze more out . I'm happy with my current numbers, malt Is quite inexpensive 🍻
Great video as always! I'm still dialling in my B40 setup - I don't quite seem to hit the expected pre-boil volumes, (or gravities) of the B40 profile in brewfather - what sort of grain absorption & mash thickness are you generally going with?
There's so many variables when it When it comes to efficiency. I use a lot of Mecca greatest statement, most of their malts have crazy high diastatic power.
Hi. I have my B40 set at a grain absorption rate of .85 and a mash thickness of 3.8. Hit the numbers the last three brews. Saying that I previously also had good results with the mash thickness at 3.5, but found I had to continually manage the grain bed. I have the mash tun deadspace set at 3.3L. This is 3L under the mash pipe and .3L in my default setup for the bypass. NB The kettle level reading is not the same as the amount in the kettle as there is .3L in my pipework and when I counter chill i lose another 1.2L. You should run some control tests to see how the water vollumes change on different setting and take all vplume readings taking this into account. IE. When I take my post boil volumes I know I need to add the 1.5L in my total pipework to provide the correct result.
Also try adding 15 minutes to the main mash rest step. This seems to have really improved my efficiency - so far a 60 minute rest I now let stand with whirlpool on bypass for 30 minutes and then circulate through mash for 45 minutes. I do have major doubts that sparging is very efficient on these all in one systems, and one reason why I have moved to a higher mash thinkness and hence mash volume where I know I will get a full extraction. I am thinking of trying some no sparge brews as I see people like Martin Keen on Homebrew Challenge getting great results without sparging and starting to believe is a legacy of the old methods using 3V setups.
If interested, I have my hourly boil off rates at 2.5 L for 1 hour and 1.8 for 90 minutes. Still fine tuning this tbh. The rate is not the same for 90 and 60 as you have the same overhead of ramping up and down the temperature for both periods. If i have to run a hopstand then I would increase this slightly. This is with a steam hat and no condenser. Boil off rates are much greater wthout the steam hat.
Trub loss is currently at c. 3L but I increase if a hoppy beer due to hop absorption. This is always a gut feel tbh.
I just brewed David Heath's ESB quite straightforward recipe and this resulted in a 86% mash efficiency and a 73% BH efficiency. The more hops in the beer, the more the BH efficiency should drop due to hop absorption.
Hope that helps. And good luck. As Bradley says it is all about practice.
David
Great video like always thanks for entertaining 👌😏🍺
Thank you very much
why a homemade Circulation Manifold? there are also original?
My manifold was the inspiration for the one that was released recently.
20 minuts mash rest. What is temperature level??
its only 10 minutes
The temperature fluctuation is extremely minimal. Lots of people mash in ice chess and what not.
@@PortlyGentleman thanks for the answer. Temperature level of the mash rest??
@@adolfotavizon915 The temperature level is typically whatever your first mashed up or your only mashed up is. Obviously you could do one at a much cooler temperature if you want to would be the same thing.
Better get the cheque book ready. - check the brewtools FB page - coming soon!!
If you only knew 🍻
That inlet shape is oddly familiar to me as a german... 😂
I don’t quite understand but thank you for washing