The 2nd baffle is for the dual inlets and single outlet. I'm putting one of these on my V8 which has 2 valve covers. Nice unboxing and info! Thank you!
I have since replaced the clear tubing with 3/8" fuel line hose. Works perfectly. Also, I just drove the car down to Gainesville Florida for spring break. When I get back to Ohio, about 2000 miles later (total milage for the trip down, around town, and back home), I'll take a new video showing what's been filtered.
Noah Greene what did the clear outlet hose look like when you removed them and how many miles did you put on it with the clear installed? I guess there are good reasons you switched but I think that was a great idea to see how clean the outlet air is.
Very well made can..pricey but well made. A homemade one can be fabricated too for much less but of course you'll have time invested in it. Stainless steel scouring pads won't bfreak down in a catch can, btw. Do NOT use steel wool, which rusts.
I picked this catch can up a couple months ago...I too didn't want to go the aluminum can route and felt the same about them...gimmick junk...worthless. without baffling...I picked up some Mishimoto high temp silicon tubing from Summit Racing for $18 for 40" and really looks great and performs like a proper catch can should...yeah its much more than some "catch cans" but its because its real...👍
On your barbs they are pipe threads. The threads themselves are the seals. The teflon tape is a lube that helps the threads seal tighter and prevent leaks.
Mishimoto knock-off can is available on eBay for around 20 dollars. The machining is messy, but you can clean it up and remove burrs. Looks exactly the same as this 100 dollar can. The bronze 50-micron filter is very restrictive in the knock-off can, but I can't say it is any more or less restrictive than the real Mishimoto can. It is very small by the way. If you are boosted or supercharged and the motor is old high mileage, you better check it a lot, with the real can or the knock off.
A husky air compressor filter works excellent for about 25$ . lots of reviews on it . Al so it has a larger 50 micron filter and a swell baffel to push everything to the bottom of the bowl.
It's a great high quality can, the nylon barbs really look and feel cheap tho which is a let down. And I'm not sure the 50micron filter is enough... I am still seeing a bit of oil coming thru the outlet.
DAHH turbo sucks air from that can, that stupid filter makes had to flow air and it's not good for engine if that shit will clog and it will. breather is for a reason-to release pressure , putting stupid filters and tiny holes/tubes to slow air -is not good. crankcase will 'exhale' about 30 liters of air on idle per our. tiny catch cans are waste of money.
Hey man, thanks for the review, a lot of helpful information about cans in general. I'm trying to pick up a pair of cans for my turbocharged setup, but am having a hard time making a choice. The ADD W1 cans are a pretty popular baffled option among my platform, and at about 100-110 a can for the current iteration, pricey but not unreasonable. They are well made and people swear by them, but don't seem to have any sort of filter, just baffling. Do you know anything about these cans -- i.e. how can they be so renowned if they don't have a filter which seems pretty important. So I looked toward the Mishtimoto ones, being this one and their other baffled one, and I am curious, what is it that makes their main baffled can 300 MSRP? It is just larger than this one, the technology seems to be the same idea between the two, so what makes this one so much cheaper? Thanks!
Thanks! Actually, the outlet hose seemed to stay much cleaner than I expected. It's not 100% perfect, but FAR better than I expected. I really do need to make a follow-up video.
OK, so I made a follow-up video an hour ago. I know I already had one, but the lighting was terrible, quality was bad, and just wasnt has helpful. This one should be much better. th-cam.com/video/QrKWut0_NMY/w-d-xo.html Its still uploading, showing about 2 hours until is finished. Check back in a couple hours, and see if its ready. Im going to let it finish uploading while I head out with family for a couple hours.
Great review! I am installing this on my 17' WRX! DIT engines have a huge problem with carbon build up from recirculation! I would have never thought of doing the clear lines for the return to check progress! Do you have an update since installed this system on your car? Has it worked?
Have you ever had the oil forced out through the threads? I had the can "finger tight" and the oil was seeping through. Tightened it and the oil came out through the drain plug threads. I was wondering if the 50 micron filter was too restrictive for my car's air flow rate.
Nope, I've never had it come out anywhere. Airflow seems to be just fine for my car (never really had a lot of air pressure in that hose anyway). I've also tested the hose on the output side with a Q-Tip, and found little to no oil residue, which means the filter is doing it's job. Eventually I should probably change the inlet hose, but that's not as big a deal. I don't take the drain plug out, I just unscrew the whole bottom, and empty it that way. Much easier. You could take the drain plug out, put on Teflon tape, and screw it back in. At least seal that plug up. There is a rubber o-ring that goes around the upper part, that the lower canister should seal against. Don't over-tighten it, you don't want to strip the threads or damage the o-ring.
duncan birrell depends on the car and what shape the engine is in. I empty mine maybe more often then is really necessary. Every two weeks should be sufficient. Just check it every few days, and keep an eye on its level. Once it gets about 1/3 of the way to the baffle, note how many days it's been since you emptied it last. That's going to be your average clean-out interval. You could let it fill a bit more, but I like to let mine get to no more than 1/3 full. Also, depending on how dirty it gets, maybe every couple months, remove the whole unit from the car, take it completely apart, and clean it all. Brass filter, baffle, inlet and outlet, base, and threads. Make sure you wash the brass filter BACKWARDS, so you're not pushing the dirt deeper into the filter.
duncan birrell You're welcome. If I remember, after my next college exam (starts in 20 minutes), when I get home I'll make a video about how to clean it.
Really no way I'm paying that much money as long as they collect oil it's a little ghost bag not a big deal better than it was from the factory the inlet and Outlet is all that matters where they catch can small baffle over engineering it
When the return line isn't hooked up, the engine sputters and idles poorly. It's not terrible. Nothing like disconnecting the brake vacuum line while it's running. I do that when I inject SeaFoam directly into the vacuum line for cleaning.
I hate to be the one to point this out but you got took paying Mishimoto prices... no offense, just sayin. See the following video - th-cam.com/video/YvlujvwNOE8/w-d-xo.html Granted this came out four years later but still... hope it helps someone save a few bucks.
@@noahgreene8113 I get ya... catch can research is indeed a strange rabbit hole to delve into. Gotta just follow the facts and empirical evidences to find the reality of it. Catch cans properly connected sure seem to be helpful in the long run, particularly in forced induction, direct injected applications.
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The 2nd baffle is for the dual inlets and single outlet. I'm putting one of these on my V8 which has 2 valve covers. Nice unboxing and info! Thank you!
I have since replaced the clear tubing with 3/8" fuel line hose. Works perfectly. Also, I just drove the car down to Gainesville Florida for spring break. When I get back to Ohio, about 2000 miles later (total milage for the trip down, around town, and back home), I'll take a new video showing what's been filtered.
Noah Greene what did the clear outlet hose look like when you removed them and how many miles did you put on it with the clear installed? I guess there are good reasons you switched but I think that was a great idea to see how clean the outlet air is.
Very well made can..pricey but well made. A homemade one can be fabricated too for much less but of course you'll have time invested in it. Stainless steel scouring pads won't bfreak down in a catch can, btw. Do NOT use steel wool, which rusts.
Thank you very much for making a video of this! It is great to see all aspects of this catch can before I buy one.
Thanks Man!! I thought I had my lines hooked up wrong buy thnkfully your video was the only one that comfirmed I had the lines hooked up right!!
I picked this catch can up a couple months ago...I too didn't want to go the aluminum can route and felt the same about them...gimmick junk...worthless. without baffling...I picked up some Mishimoto high temp silicon tubing from Summit Racing for $18 for 40" and really looks great and performs like a proper catch can should...yeah its much more than some "catch cans" but its because its real...👍
On your barbs they are pipe threads. The threads themselves are the seals. The teflon tape is a lube that helps the threads seal tighter and prevent leaks.
The 2nd baffle on the top is probably for extra inlet on the 3 port version
Seeing this come apart has convinced me to steer clear of ebay catch cans, nice bit of kit this.
They actually make a nock off of this exact can on eBay now.. 25$ cad too
@@will21 yep. And It works good!
Mishimoto knock-off can is available on eBay for around 20 dollars. The machining is messy, but you can clean it up and remove burrs. Looks exactly the same as this 100 dollar can. The bronze 50-micron filter is very restrictive in the knock-off can, but I can't say it is any more or less restrictive than the real Mishimoto can.
It is very small by the way. If you are boosted or supercharged and the motor is old high mileage, you better check it a lot, with the real can or the knock off.
A husky air compressor filter works excellent for about 25$ . lots of reviews on it . Al so it has a larger 50 micron filter and a swell baffel to push everything to the bottom of the bowl.
please make a video after some miles of driving to see the ammount of oil inside of the catch can
It's a great high quality can, the nylon barbs really look and feel cheap tho which is a let down. And I'm not sure the 50micron filter is enough... I am still seeing a bit of oil coming thru the outlet.
DAHH turbo sucks air from that can, that stupid filter makes had to flow air and it's not good for engine if that shit will clog and it will. breather is for a reason-to release pressure , putting stupid filters and tiny holes/tubes to slow air -is not good. crankcase will 'exhale' about 30 liters of air on idle per our. tiny catch cans are waste of money.
Excellent review thankyou!
What's the difference between the 200 dollar high flow vs the regular Mishimoto 134 dollar? Just bigger in and outlet??
It Should have a better filter like Provent 200 but it’s better then nothing.
this is a great review.. thanks
Hey man, thanks for the review, a lot of helpful information about cans in general. I'm trying to pick up a pair of cans for my turbocharged setup, but am having a hard time making a choice. The ADD W1 cans are a pretty popular baffled option among my platform, and at about 100-110 a can for the current iteration, pricey but not unreasonable. They are well made and people swear by them, but don't seem to have any sort of filter, just baffling. Do you know anything about these cans -- i.e. how can they be so renowned if they don't have a filter which seems pretty important. So I looked toward the Mishtimoto ones, being this one and their other baffled one, and I am curious, what is it that makes their main baffled can 300 MSRP? It is just larger than this one, the technology seems to be the same idea between the two, so what makes this one so much cheaper? Thanks!
Great video and idea to use clear lines. How clean did the outlet hose stay? Maybe a good follow-up video!
Thanks! Actually, the outlet hose seemed to stay much cleaner than I expected. It's not 100% perfect, but FAR better than I expected. I really do need to make a follow-up video.
Never use vinyl tubing in a car. It softens and it MELTS.
Yup, get a rubber tube oil rated instead. I put those vinyl tubings - and it melted like mozzarella .
agreed... that stuff is for plumbing, have witnessed it melt.
OK, so I made a follow-up video an hour ago. I know I already had one, but the lighting was terrible, quality was bad, and just wasnt has helpful. This one should be much better.
th-cam.com/video/QrKWut0_NMY/w-d-xo.html
Its still uploading, showing about 2 hours until is finished. Check back in a couple hours, and see if its ready. Im going to let it finish uploading while I head out with family for a couple hours.
Great review! I am installing this on my 17' WRX! DIT engines have a huge problem with carbon build up from recirculation!
I would have never thought of doing the clear lines for the return to check progress!
Do you have an update since installed this system on your car? Has it worked?
josh cline Be careful what clear hose you use. Heat can collapse some materials.
I can vouch for this product. I drain every 2000 miles and there is about 8 oz of oil.
All reviews of many brands rec'd black oil/gas lines which wont break down due to petro chemicals. Good review though.
Sorry this question may be dumb but do you have to take out the bronze bolt inside the cap?
Have you ever had the oil forced out through the threads? I had the can "finger tight" and the oil was seeping through. Tightened it and the oil came out through the drain plug threads. I was wondering if the 50 micron filter was too restrictive for my car's air flow rate.
Nope, I've never had it come out anywhere. Airflow seems to be just fine for my car (never really had a lot of air pressure in that hose anyway). I've also tested the hose on the output side with a Q-Tip, and found little to no oil residue, which means the filter is doing it's job. Eventually I should probably change the inlet hose, but that's not as big a deal. I don't take the drain plug out, I just unscrew the whole bottom, and empty it that way. Much easier. You could take the drain plug out, put on Teflon tape, and screw it back in. At least seal that plug up. There is a rubber o-ring that goes around the upper part, that the lower canister should seal against. Don't over-tighten it, you don't want to strip the threads or damage the o-ring.
It so small ..how often or kilometers will i have to empty this?
Good review Sir... How often does it need emptying ? Weekly ?? (Around 150 miles per week) or how many miles before it needs emptying ??
duncan birrell depends on the car and what shape the engine is in. I empty mine maybe more often then is really necessary. Every two weeks should be sufficient. Just check it every few days, and keep an eye on its level. Once it gets about 1/3 of the way to the baffle, note how many days it's been since you emptied it last. That's going to be your average clean-out interval.
You could let it fill a bit more, but I like to let mine get to no more than 1/3 full.
Also, depending on how dirty it gets, maybe every couple months, remove the whole unit from the car, take it completely apart, and clean it all. Brass filter, baffle, inlet and outlet, base, and threads. Make sure you wash the brass filter BACKWARDS, so you're not pushing the dirt deeper into the filter.
Thank you Noah for an excellent reply, I have a Evo 9!
duncan birrell You're welcome. If I remember, after my next college exam (starts in 20 minutes), when I get home I'll make a video about how to clean it.
duncan birrell 1000 miles when I spoke to Mishi for my Z.
did you make the cleaning video?
yeah, I actually started off with an eBay can, and it was 101% worthless. Nothing I have used compares to this guy.
except maybe 15$ clones of it.
Really no way I'm paying that much money as long as they collect oil it's a little ghost bag not a big deal better than it was from the factory the inlet and Outlet is all that matters where they catch can small baffle over engineering it
Oil will destroy that tubing.
what part isn't coming apart
Why is it you want a return line? Replace pcv with open and vented system. Only way to go. Nice revieuw do
When the return line isn't hooked up, the engine sputters and idles poorly. It's not terrible. Nothing like disconnecting the brake vacuum line while it's running. I do that when I inject SeaFoam directly into the vacuum line for cleaning.
Plus, so far the return line is essentially spotless. The catch can send to be catching everything. I figured there would be some blow by, but nada.
Close the intake! Replace pcv with open system. Breath with filter. Perfect idling.
where's the new video?
I can’t unthread mine it’s stuck ! Help !
totljag1 It's still me (Noah, the owner of this channel), just under my other TH-cam name.
What part are you unable to get off?
That tube will harden eventually. You want something that will not get rigid and eventually leak.
They sell the exact can as this for $15.
Then it's a knockoff.
filter in that thing will clog and bey to your engine.
I hate to be the one to point this out but you got took paying Mishimoto prices... no offense, just sayin. See the following video - th-cam.com/video/YvlujvwNOE8/w-d-xo.html Granted this came out four years later but still... hope it helps someone save a few bucks.
Yeah, that wasn't a thing when I got mine. I did lots of research as well. But if there is a similar one that's cheaper now, go for it. 👍
@@noahgreene8113 I get ya... catch can research is indeed a strange rabbit hole to delve into. Gotta just follow the facts and empirical evidences to find the reality of it. Catch cans properly connected sure seem to be helpful in the long run, particularly in forced induction, direct injected applications.