I know I got a notification about last chance to guess the cost of your build. I’ve been watching since the beginning when you removed the pool and some trees! I’m so impressed with this whole thing. I hope you take a much needed vacation after this! Maybe in some nice sunny tropical place 😅. I’m going to put an estimate at 4.25 million.
Karen. Thanks for following along on this crazy journey! There is an island off of Belize that I would love to visit. Maybe in a couple of years :) That would be nice if the final value of the house ended up being that much but I kind of doubt it :)
Well you have earned it! Well, if you look at traditional homes built commercially, a homevthe size of this would probably be well past the multimillion dollar amount. I think my very first guess back in the early days was more like $800,00. And the daily living saving will be priceless!
Can you post a link to whatever calculator you used to get that 50/50 or 55/45 R value split? I live in a different climate but am trying to figure out if I will have mold issues in my building as planned
It's around R-22 but when you compare it to traditional framing that has thermal bridges then it would be better to compare it to around an r-30 or so in performance. It's made by Wanessa Sue Inc in Kingman AZ
That's a nice roof but too rich for me. A cold roof is what is in my budget. From the bottom up this is what I want: knotty red cedar t&g ceilng, some type of strapping, then a plastic vapor barrier, BIBS (blown in blanket system) material, then 16" I-joists, 24" on center with a perforated foil radiant barrier attached to the bottom surface of the I-joist top 2x4, then plywood sheathing, synthetic underlayment, diagonal strapping, then a hand seamed standing seam steel roof, then my solar panel array brackets clamped on top of that. In between the I-joists will be some wood blocking and dense packed blown in fiberglass insulation. The standing seam roof is my first moisture barrier, the underlayment is my second, the plywood is my third. My perforated radiant barrier is my fourth barrier but the perforations also allow the fiberglass to dry if it ever gets wet. The space between the radiant barrier and the plywood is my roof vent area to allow the radiant barrier to work. 14.5" of dense pack blown in fiberglass is around R48 which is enough in my case and well in to the deminishing returns area of insulation but the cold roof avoids the whole condensing surface in a roof with no drying potential issue. I'll extend the fiberglass insulation all the way out on the upper overhang so if it settles, the settling will happen where the insulation isn't really doing anything. The best part is it is cheap so I'll spend my money on the knotty red cedar t&g and the standing seam steel roof. The cedar is a high end finish and a natural insect repellent, I'll never have moths. I might use a treated plywood on top to prevent bugs from eating it if they can get up that high and in to the roof vents. I think that's about as good as it gets short of a full closed cell foam hot roof with equal or better R-value. Mixing foam and fluffy insulation is fine as long as your proportions are right and your HVAC is maintaining your desired temperature but if your heating goes out for too long you can get that condensation and wet insulation with insufficient drying. I hope you can dodge that bullet but I would rather be bulletproof.
I love your roof details. And if I didn't have the 35' above grade limit and needed the space for the 3rd floor living I would have gone with a cold roof assembly and used the money elsewhere.
Very true. Which is why I will be going to great lengths to make sure it doesn't burn. As for the toxicity in general a house fire is very toxic regardless of what you used to build it.
I can’t believe the beautiful view out the window!
I know I got a notification about last chance to guess the cost of your build. I’ve been watching since the beginning when you removed the pool and some trees! I’m so impressed with this whole thing. I hope you take a much needed vacation after this! Maybe in some nice sunny tropical place 😅. I’m going to put an estimate at 4.25 million.
Karen. Thanks for following along on this crazy journey! There is an island off of Belize that I would love to visit. Maybe in a couple of years :) That would be nice if the final value of the house ended up being that much but I kind of doubt it :)
Well you have earned it! Well, if you look at traditional homes built commercially, a homevthe size of this would probably be well past the multimillion dollar amount. I think my very first guess back in the early days was more like $800,00. And the daily living saving will be priceless!
Can you post a link to whatever calculator you used to get that 50/50 or 55/45 R value split? I live in a different climate but am trying to figure out if I will have mold issues in my building as planned
Search for Installing Rigid Foam Above Roof Sheathing by Martin Holliday and he includes the chart for the different zones in his article
With the metal frame around the roof foam, what is the net R value of that component? & mfgr?
It's around R-22 but when you compare it to traditional framing that has thermal bridges then it would be better to compare it to around an r-30 or so in performance. It's made by Wanessa Sue Inc in Kingman AZ
That's a nice roof but too rich for me.
A cold roof is what is in my budget. From the bottom up this is what I want: knotty red cedar t&g ceilng, some type of strapping, then a plastic vapor barrier, BIBS (blown in blanket system) material, then 16" I-joists, 24" on center with a perforated foil radiant barrier attached to the bottom surface of the I-joist top 2x4, then plywood sheathing, synthetic underlayment, diagonal strapping, then a hand seamed standing seam steel roof, then my solar panel array brackets clamped on top of that. In between the I-joists will be some wood blocking and dense packed blown in fiberglass insulation.
The standing seam roof is my first moisture barrier, the underlayment is my second, the plywood is my third. My perforated radiant barrier is my fourth barrier but the perforations also allow the fiberglass to dry if it ever gets wet.
The space between the radiant barrier and the plywood is my roof vent area to allow the radiant barrier to work.
14.5" of dense pack blown in fiberglass is around R48 which is enough in my case and well in to the deminishing returns area of insulation but the cold roof avoids the whole condensing surface in a roof with no drying potential issue.
I'll extend the fiberglass insulation all the way out on the upper overhang so if it settles, the settling will happen where the insulation isn't really doing anything.
The best part is it is cheap so I'll spend my money on the knotty red cedar t&g and the standing seam steel roof.
The cedar is a high end finish and a natural insect repellent, I'll never have moths. I might use a treated plywood on top to prevent bugs from eating it if they can get up that high and in to the roof vents.
I think that's about as good as it gets short of a full closed cell foam hot roof with equal or better R-value.
Mixing foam and fluffy insulation is fine as long as your proportions are right and your HVAC is maintaining your desired temperature but if your heating goes out for too long you can get that condensation and wet insulation with insufficient drying.
I hope you can dodge that bullet but I would rather be bulletproof.
I love your roof details. And if I didn't have the 35' above grade limit and needed the space for the 3rd floor living I would have gone with a cold roof assembly and used the money elsewhere.
Will it burn?
It can, which is why I only want low voltage LED lighting up in the ceiling.
Not only will it burn, it's toxic when it burns.
Very true. Which is why I will be going to great lengths to make sure it doesn't burn. As for the toxicity in general a house fire is very toxic regardless of what you used to build it.