The end result looks great. 3D printed tooling is being used a lot now and there are materials such as Nylon (printed via SLS) that work very well even after hundreds of pressings. Thanks for sharing this video 👌👍
Great results! If you need to do more than a one-off, you might be able to save some time by printing the originals with a really low infill %, use those to make silicone rubber molds, and then cast the actual dies from a hard-wearing epoxy. This will let you press a lot more parts before the dies get too worn to use anymore, and making new ones will be a LOT faster since you can reuse the molds to cast another set. Also, look up "elastoforming" - that might let you get away with only one positive die instead of a positive and negative. But all of that aside, your parts look awesome!!
That was really cool, but some hints for your video production. It would be good if you gave more details about the process, materials and resources. For instance, what material was that? PLA? What gap did you leave between the dies to allow for the metal to form? How about a link to your guy's trike. Now I have to go search for V8 trike. Is he on TH-cam?
thanks for the incite! My brain is focusing on design and building, and sometimes it's hard for me to really focus on storytelling. Mike Leeds is not on TH-cam, I dont even think hes on social media. I will share some more of his builds soon
I’ve been looking for a stamped “handcrafted by …” tag to use rather than my branding iron and have a birthday coming up that I was going to ask for a 3d printer. You Tube must be reading my mind I think I just found my winter project! That came out fantastic great job.
You can reinforce it using resin right! You can fill the gaps using resin. Then you can use electroplating to make the die stronger if you are going to stamp a lot of pieces.
@@sheanyquist I did a similar process with some dimple dies and after several iterations I did I think nearly 100% infill, if not something close to 75 or so. I was eager to do some tests but they all seemed to fail because of my infill, when I finally put it higher and just let it run, I was able to test them and after many 2" dimpled holes, somewhere around 50, my die finally got too damaged to continue and I was ready to call it a night, and another several hour long print was ready by the next day when I was ready to tackle it again ha. I had personally been amazed at how well simple PLA held up to metal forming even with dimple dies, I am amazed that you got such clear letters from yours though, great job.
Think I'm going to try slightly thicker but softer aluminum. The stuff from ACE doesnt tell you the grade but I think its hardened. I see some 1000 and 3000 series stuff near me that is hardened.
Surprised solid infill would take that long. That's a TON of surface area to deform. Worked great! With .016" material, what did you offset your dies to compensate? Looking forward to the next one.
I think it was .100" offset. I wanted to use .4mm nozzle to get good detail on the lettering and 100% was way too long. Im sure it would have been better with something like .8mm
DUUUDE!! That looks fricken awesome!! I want try it but, I don’t have access to a big press like that! …Maybe my arbor press can get ‘er done with many presses?! I think I’ll add witness pins to keep it aligned 🤔
I did something similar (but a bit smaller) in a big vice and I've also seen people doing this with hammering on the forms too. Obviously depends on many factors (material, design, depth...), but don't be afraid to try with a smaller press. I made holes for drills to use as alignment dowels.
@@Finnspin_unicycles i made a smaller one later for my own logo and it was definitely doable on the vice or a small arbor. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@rayleblanc7209 my workflow path to 3d print is faster than coding a cnc. That's just me. I would definitely do that if I wanted any sort of longevity out of the tooling
Since the forces are pretty localized at the font. The infill takes most of the load. It would be best to just do 100% infill, but im lazy and impatient
The end result looks great. 3D printed tooling is being used a lot now and there are materials such as Nylon (printed via SLS) that work very well even after hundreds of pressings. Thanks for sharing this video 👌👍
Awesome results! What is the clearance between both molds?
Great results! If you need to do more than a one-off, you might be able to save some time by printing the originals with a really low infill %, use those to make silicone rubber molds, and then cast the actual dies from a hard-wearing epoxy. This will let you press a lot more parts before the dies get too worn to use anymore, and making new ones will be a LOT faster since you can reuse the molds to cast another set. Also, look up "elastoforming" - that might let you get away with only one positive die instead of a positive and negative. But all of that aside, your parts look awesome!!
Fantastic. But we'd all love a bit more detail on your design tolerances, slice settings, clearances, e.t.c.
Also interested.
That was really cool, but some hints for your video production. It would be good if you gave more details about the process, materials and resources. For instance, what material was that? PLA? What gap did you leave between the dies to allow for the metal to form? How about a link to your guy's trike. Now I have to go search for V8 trike. Is he on TH-cam?
thanks for the incite! My brain is focusing on design and building, and sometimes it's hard for me to really focus on storytelling. Mike Leeds is not on TH-cam, I dont even think hes on social media. I will share some more of his builds soon
@@sheanyquist do you no what file you use to make this?
Did you have to create clearance around the letters (positive, negative shape) to accomodate the material thickness, and was it substantial
I’ve been looking for a stamped “handcrafted by …” tag to use rather than my branding iron and have a birthday coming up that I was going to ask for a 3d printer. You Tube must be reading my mind I think I just found my winter project! That came out fantastic great job.
@@msk3905 awesome!! Have fun, i suggest a bambu lab printer
@@sheanyquist exactly the one i am looking at
Extremely cool stuff my man, keep up the good "ork!
Nice result!! I think will go try louvers with the same apporche.
You can reinforce it using resin right! You can fill the gaps using resin. Then you can use electroplating to make the die stronger if you are going to stamp a lot of pieces.
At that point just machine it.
Love it
Good to see you doing this again
Thanks for commenting. Ive been working, just not filming as much. More to come!
Devils advocate… failures due to trying to avoid long prints with 100% fill wind up taking more time than just printing once with 100% fill.
@danboy3399 probably, but I was a little bit impatient to learn if any of it is gonna work. I'll probably do my next ones at 100
@@sheanyquist I did a similar process with some dimple dies and after several iterations I did I think nearly 100% infill, if not something close to 75 or so. I was eager to do some tests but they all seemed to fail because of my infill, when I finally put it higher and just let it run, I was able to test them and after many 2" dimpled holes, somewhere around 50, my die finally got too damaged to continue and I was ready to call it a night, and another several hour long print was ready by the next day when I was ready to tackle it again ha. I had personally been amazed at how well simple PLA held up to metal forming even with dimple dies, I am amazed that you got such clear letters from yours though, great job.
Think I'm going to try slightly thicker but softer aluminum. The stuff from ACE doesnt tell you the grade but I think its hardened. I see some 1000 and 3000 series stuff near me that is hardened.
It did seem like it has some spring back to it. I would beef up the infill!
Yeah, we are printing 100% infill right now. I got some 3000 series unhardened Alum, see what happens.@@sheanyquist
for brass you should anneal it before,it would give even bettter results
I was thinking the same thing for both
How about plastic print the shape, cast ceramic mold around it, then cast alu in the ceramic mold and voila, you have a metal die.
Surprised solid infill would take that long. That's a TON of surface area to deform. Worked great! With .016" material, what did you offset your dies to compensate? Looking forward to the next one.
I think it was .100" offset. I wanted to use .4mm nozzle to get good detail on the lettering and 100% was way too long. Im sure it would have been better with something like .8mm
DUUUDE!! That looks fricken awesome!! I want try it but, I don’t have access to a big press like that! …Maybe my arbor press can get ‘er done with many presses?! I think I’ll add witness pins to keep it aligned 🤔
It deformed the tubing i used to press with. It would guess it needs a couple of tons to get it all the way there
I did something similar (but a bit smaller) in a big vice and I've also seen people doing this with hammering on the forms too. Obviously depends on many factors (material, design, depth...), but don't be afraid to try with a smaller press. I made holes for drills to use as alignment dowels.
@@Finnspin_unicycles i made a smaller one later for my own logo and it was definitely doable on the vice or a small arbor. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just curious if that would go easier if you annealed the metal before obviously you need to allow it to cool and would possibly need to polish after
More than likely. I would anneal it if i was going for a deeper embossing for sure
I’m watching this again, after a year. I’m keen to try nylon filament and 14 gauge(2mm) cold rolled steel. 😑🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🇦🇺☮️🍀
Oh man!!! Ive seen people use gyroidal infill and the fill it with epoxy. Good luck!
Fantastic!
@@BenjaminNelsonX thanks man!
Print those babies at 75% or above and you can make a ton of them
That worked great! Well done. wb
Right!!!! It was surprising. Usually my dumb ideas dont work that easily
Cool project! what clearance do you maintain between the die halves? (between the lower and upper letters)
If you like more die forming video's check out @randomrouting he has cool press brake 3d printed dies
Ill have to check the cad, but i think it was .050" offset
Can you pleas share what font you used?
HI i realize im late to the party but i didnt happen to hear mention of what material you used for this 3d print?
Petg esun black
@@sheanyquist so cool thanks!
Amazing!!
have you tested with sheet metal steel 1.25mm? :D
Siiiiick
Yeah buddy!!!!
If 3D print plastic can do it, why not just CNC it in MDF or even better, in hardwood. Way faster Bros.
@rayleblanc7209 my workflow path to 3d print is faster than coding a cnc. That's just me. I would definitely do that if I wanted any sort of longevity out of the tooling
Thickness?
what's your 3d printer?
Cr-10 creality
Did you anneal the brass?
Nope, straight off the shelf. Definitely would have helped, but i dont think it was needed for that thickness. Thanks for commenting!!!!
👍💓!!
The wall thickness are more critical than infill.
Since the forces are pretty localized at the font. The infill takes most of the load. It would be best to just do 100% infill, but im lazy and impatient
what is the maximum pressure of your press?
20 tons
Metal sheet thiknes
0:55
@@sheanyquist ss sheet
@@sheanyquist please anser me
.016 inch aluminum
@@sheanyquist ss sheet ma embossing ho sakta hai
Try Annealing
Interesting subject but: 1) get rid of the music, 2) get out of vision, we don't need to see you. More of the subject matter!
Are you located in the Bay Area California? Near Blastolene
@leop9021 yeah, I'm friends with Mike leeds. I'm in santa cruz now
@@sheanyquist I know Keith with the copper motorcycle who knows Mike. I’m in Los Gatos. I really like your videos a lot.
@leop9021 right on, this video is trending right now!