There's no negative terminal on a starter, it's grounded by the housing, that is called a M wire terminal and is supposed to be positive when the ignition switch is in the start position.
It shows that a slow crank the majority of times it’s in your wires anywhere between the battery and the cranking motor. There are solenoids relays and fuses that are all connected by visible wires, that need to be tested with your multimeter. Any faulty wire can cause a slow crank.
Normally yeah, but in this case not anywhere, in the wire on the starter I tested in this video. I've shown where the fault is with the current draw readings I've got. Changed the starter for another 'new' one and it solved it. 😎👌
@@RickTheSpud i’ll be honest, I took a new starter out and put another new starter in but, I’m still having the same dilemma. It’s an older model RV/motorhome that I’m trying to help a friend get running. The wires are pretty old. I am still cranking away at it so if you have any helpful advice it would be much helpful thanks👍👍
@@ThuyNguyen-vc8lx gound problem. Find G01 G02(and In some cases G03).. un bolt them, clean surfaces, clean bolt threads! And re assemble. 9/10 times the problem is fixed
Correct. The negative/ground wire comes back to the solenoid which is grounded from the case, which is grounded to the engine, which is grounded to the chassis, which is connected to the negative on the battery, which completes the circuit.
@@tapiwarwizi8461 There's a short wire that goes from the solenoid to the case, check the voltage when cranking as per the video, that's the furtherest negative point from the battery.
its not a grounding wire, its + from the solenoid that comes from the battery. the case of the starter is ground. so if there is a bad connection from ground on the engine block to - on the battery it will slow roll
It is a grounding wire, and it's from the - on the solenoid and goes into the case as seen in the video which makes the case ground, which is bolted to the engine block which is ground, which is grounded to the chassis, which is where the - from the battery goes to. I diagnosed the problem in the video. The problem is inside the starter case. I changed the starter and it fired straight up.
@@RickTheSpud you think it is, its not, you have a battery cable that goes to the other large nut. when the solenoid is activated it drops a flat plat in side to connect the battery wire to the main nut going to the motor. if its a grounding wire then the case would be positive , think about it, there is only 1 wire going into the main motor and its ground? and the case is ground? then where is the motor getting power to spin.
@@vcmdpropulsion126 There's two terminals on the starter solenoid, and one is + with a big red wire coming from the battery, and the other is - with a short wire going into the case. The main battery also has 2 terminals, one + with a big red wire that goes to everything, and a - which goes to the chassis to complete the circuit on everything that is connected to it, like the starter which is connected to the engine, which is wired to the chassis.
I thumbed up just for the cool accent. "Uth" instead of Earth. "Coybal" instead of "cable" "Thea" instead of "there" ...... .......:-) Greeting from USA.
thanks for th video mate.i had the same problem on a bmw f 800gs with a new battery......after i saw your video i just cleaned the connection of the negative ground cable of the starter and magicly problem solved.....i had 0.7 volts on startup.now it is 10+ and starts immediatelly
Ah that's amazing, glad this video helped out, that's why I knew I had to make it. 👌 If I've helped you out, can you help me out?, hit that subscribe button... 😉
My Fiat Doblo 1.3 Multijet: turned key, big click, interior and exterior lights are working, battery is good, fuses are good, relays are good, grounding is good. 😢😢 Time to jack it up, sit it on stands and remove engine tray. 😢😢
I have this slow crank issue after driving for a bit as if the battery hasnt been charged properly. However if it sits for an hour or even overnight it cranks fast with no issue as if the strater gets hot and becomes weak and cools down which than results in it cranking with no issue. Just a theory of mine. Anyway Ive tested the alternator its reading great and charging properly and tested the battery and its also fine. Could it be what you demonstrated here?
Yeah could be. Try what I did in this video when the starter is cold and hot, and if you get low voltage readings at least you know it's not a current draw issue. Sounds like a tired starter when hot. Makes sense. 😉
I just had the same issue with slow crank and sometimes no crank at all. My battery wire to the starter was getting hot and when I opened the insulation it was burning. I changed the wire and problem solved.
Did you at (1:52) connect probe to terminal post or the wire connected to the terminal. mine goes to 10.2v or i think it was 1.2v like what you shown. New battery and new starter cranks slow & only cranks with fuel pump fuse out, if i put it back it just clicks
Thank you, My dear friend you're about testing the amperage of the battery when you connect your meter in serie & you didi it right whereas to test voltage the meter must be connected in parallel with source & meter set on volt range...🌙🕋💝🔭🔬⚖️🩺🇵🇸☝️. 👍👌
Ground cable from the solenoid to the starter motor case, which is where the fault was. The positive cable feed comes from elsewhere, alternator I think?
If you think that’s a ground wire make another video with the new starter in the car and run the same test. I’m betting that wire on the new starter will now have around 9-10 volts on it when cranking. The reason your car was starting slow was because there was only 7 volts on that wire when instead it should have been equal to battery voltage. Yes, replacing the starter fixed the issue but it was because there was a voltage drop in the + side, not the - side of the starter.
@@RickTheSpud there’s a rubber grommet that the wire runs through so it doesn’t contact the case of the starter. Also, why would they shield that wire with 2 layers of wire loom if it was a ground. No need to protect a ground wire. But since it’s a live wire they are required to shield it for safety purposes.
Merhaba benim aracım opel vectra 1.9 cdti z19dth motor. Benim aracımın sorunu geç çalışıyor. İki veya üç kere marş tekrarı yapıyorum. Araç 2. Marşta başlatmada çalışıyor. Enjektör sağlam , kızdırma bujileri sağlam sizce sorun nedir ? Hava sıcaklığı 20 derece olsa bile çalışmakta zorlanıyor. Marş motoruda sağlam akü , pilde sağlam
I have a question, i have a slow crank issue and a mechanic told me that the rotor(where the brushes contact the whole inside thing) was worn out and it really is kind of worn out.Any ideas what cloud the problem be.I havent done any testing yet
@@dirtbiker9687 Need a new starter or reconditioned starter mate. I got a reconditioned one from Ebay, but it lasted 2 weeks and they stopped answering my messages. I got a reconditioned one from a proper parts place and it has been fine.
@@RickTheSpud thanks for the fast reply.I changed the brushes and still the same also checked the ground and it was good.I can get a recoditioned one bc there are none.I dont have any other choice than to change the comutator.I will get back to tell you how it went.👍
The first test I did, 0.1 or 0.2 volts I think is normal. Not sure what a 'problem' figure would be? Over 0.5v? Obviously 7 volt draw was a problem! 🤦♂️😆
@@altezzabmw Don't think so, if you've got a 2 volt draw then you've got a short somewhere. Otherwise only 10 of your 12 volts is getting to the starter motor...
Some cars have a high pressure fuel pump and the first start of the day has longest crank time, as the pump needs to build pressure after overnight gradual drop.
If you want to teach others how to 'troubleshoot' a car. At least make sure you fully understand the component you working on. Fixing something but giving wrong information about how a starter works is a big no no. It could potentially damage components and/or harm people when they are misinformed.
Regardless of the terms and language I didn't get 100% accurate, the way it was tested and diagnosed was on the money, and a new starter cured it. You won't damage ANYTHING by testing it with a voltmeter.
Hello Realy hope you can help me. Iv got a Fiat 128 1974 model My starter ONLY keep crunking (stuck) if cold. Then i take of negative from battery and it stops. Then put cable back. Then start easy whole day. No problem. In morning it stuck when start for 1st time the day. Its summer now in South Africa. But in winter it stuck 2 to 3 times. Then no problem to start. If car is in sun. And start for 1st time the day sometime start 1st time without keep cranking. Sometimes keep crancking ONLY ones. Then start easy. After it starts. I switch of and starts again. I did it 6 times. Off and start off and start. No no no problem. Rrrrealy hope someone no what cause this. Thanks so much.
Generally, the only wire that that goes from the solenoid to the motor is the 12v one that fires up the motor once the solenoid is actuated to close the contacts.
Surely that's a ground wire that completes the circuit, and grounds to the engine, which grounds to the chassis, and grounds back to the - terminal on the battery. If what you said is correct the whole engine and bodywork would be Live!
Thanks for the short simple video and explanation. Straight to the point.
No problem. 👊
There's no negative terminal on a starter, it's grounded by the housing, that is called a M wire terminal and is supposed to be positive when the ignition switch is in the start position.
Yeah that's what I meant. 😉
That was the problem anyway... 👊
It shows that a slow crank the majority of times it’s in your wires anywhere between the battery and the cranking motor. There are solenoids relays and fuses that are all connected by visible wires, that need to be tested with your multimeter. Any faulty wire can cause a slow crank.
Normally yeah, but in this case not anywhere, in the wire on the starter I tested in this video. I've shown where the fault is with the current draw readings I've got.
Changed the starter for another 'new' one and it solved it. 😎👌
@@RickTheSpud i’ll be honest, I took a new starter out and put another new starter in but, I’m still having the same dilemma. It’s an older model RV/motorhome that I’m trying to help a friend get running. The wires are pretty old. I am still cranking away at it so if you have any helpful advice it would be much helpful thanks👍👍
@@ThuyNguyen-vc8lx Is it cranking slow? Follow the steps in this video to diagnose an earth short, make sure battery is charged. Can't be much else.
@@ThuyNguyen-vc8lx gound problem. Find G01 G02(and In some cases G03).. un bolt them, clean surfaces, clean bolt threads! And re assemble. 9/10 times the problem is fixed
Changed the starter, and it fixed it. It was a reconned starter and it lasted 2 weeks. 🙄
the solenoid is actuated by 12v + not a neg wire. the starter is ground because of the engine.
Correct. The negative/ground wire comes back to the solenoid which is grounded from the case, which is grounded to the engine, which is grounded to the chassis, which is connected to the negative on the battery, which completes the circuit.
@@RickTheSpud oww i will look for that wire right now got a lazy crank/no crank.
@@tapiwarwizi8461 There's a short wire that goes from the solenoid to the case, check the voltage when cranking as per the video, that's the furtherest negative point from the battery.
i cant thank you enough and you cant imagine how much you have helped really thnk you
No worries buddy!
Make sure you've Subscribed, and give me a shout out on your socials! 😎👌
its not a grounding wire, its + from the solenoid that comes from the battery. the case of the starter is ground. so if there is a bad connection from ground on the engine block to - on the battery it will slow roll
It is a grounding wire, and it's from the - on the solenoid and goes into the case as seen in the video which makes the case ground, which is bolted to the engine block which is ground, which is grounded to the chassis, which is where the - from the battery goes to.
I diagnosed the problem in the video. The problem is inside the starter case. I changed the starter and it fired straight up.
@@RickTheSpud you think it is, its not, you have a battery cable that goes to the other large nut. when the solenoid is activated it drops a flat plat in side to connect the battery wire to the main nut going to the motor. if its a grounding wire then the case would be positive , think about it, there is only 1 wire going into the main motor and its ground? and the case is ground? then where is the motor getting power to spin.
@@vcmdpropulsion126 There's two terminals on the starter solenoid, and one is + with a big red wire coming from the battery, and the other is - with a short wire going into the case. The main battery also has 2 terminals, one + with a big red wire that goes to everything, and a - which goes to the chassis to complete the circuit on everything that is connected to it, like the starter which is connected to the engine, which is wired to the chassis.
@@RickTheSpud ok
@@RickTheSpud he is right do a bit of research on how starters work. starters do not have ground cables
I thumbed up just for the cool accent. "Uth" instead of Earth. "Coybal" instead of "cable" "Thea" instead of "there" ...... .......:-) Greeting from USA.
Haha. Thanks buddy! That's just how I sound! 🤷♂️😉
Thank you very much man. This is exactly what was wrong with my Motorcycle.
Ace, glad it helped you up bud! 👌
@@RickTheSpud keep on putting out very helpful content.
@@theshirehighlander7292 I'll try! Thanks for watching bud. 😉👌
thanks for th video mate.i had the same problem on a bmw f 800gs with a new battery......after i saw your video i just cleaned the connection of the negative ground cable of the starter and magicly problem solved.....i had 0.7 volts on startup.now it is 10+ and starts immediatelly
Ah that's amazing, glad this video helped out, that's why I knew I had to make it. 👌
If I've helped you out, can you help me out?, hit that subscribe button... 😉
My slow crank issue on a 2000 5.4 expedition was from the brake sensor wire melted to the exhaust manifold...
Oh wow! And that was enough to short it out? Makes sense. 👊
Great Debate from BOTH SIDES as Anything Technically is my Cryponite in LIFE as freezes me like deer in the headlights syndrome....
😂😉👌
My Fiat Doblo 1.3 Multijet: turned key, big click, interior and exterior lights are working, battery is good, fuses are good, relays are good, grounding is good. 😢😢 Time to jack it up, sit it on stands and remove engine tray. 😢😢
Doh! All the best mate... 👊
@@RickTheSpud thanks 👊
I have this slow crank issue after driving for a bit as if the battery hasnt been charged properly. However if it sits for an hour or even overnight it cranks fast with no issue as if the strater gets hot and becomes weak and cools down which than results in it cranking with no issue. Just a theory of mine. Anyway Ive tested the alternator its reading great and charging properly and tested the battery and its also fine. Could it be what you demonstrated here?
Yeah could be. Try what I did in this video when the starter is cold and hot, and if you get low voltage readings at least you know it's not a current draw issue. Sounds like a tired starter when hot. Makes sense. 😉
Same issue here although when my car doesnt start, i am able to jump start it, which makes me believe its not the starter.
Maybe, or by jump starting it you might be bypassing the earth fault. Try swapping the battery out.
I just had the same issue with slow crank and sometimes no crank at all. My battery wire to the starter was getting hot and when I opened the insulation it was burning. I changed the wire and problem solved.
Oh wow, well saved! Wire must have broken down inside I guess.
Did you at (1:52) connect probe to terminal post or the wire connected to the terminal.
mine goes to 10.2v or i think it was 1.2v
like what you shown. New battery and new starter cranks slow & only cranks with fuel pump fuse out, if i put it back it just clicks
On the post.
Sounds like you've got a different issue, maybe fuel pump related. 🙄
That's definitely not a ground wire. That's +12V from the solenoid to the starter motor. This might end badly for some viewers.😬
Why's that? You won't hurt anything with a voltmeter. The voltmeter was showing a draw on that wire and a new starter cured it.
So if we change the starter, problem will be solved?
In this case it did yes. 👊
Bateria faz o mesmo sintomas?
It would, but if you test it and it's over 12 volts then it's prob not the cause. 👊
I had this exact issue. I bought a brand new starter and replaced it. It made the same exact noise and still won’t start
Maybe the same issue then, check your battery and your ground to the starter, then engine ground, then chassis ground...
Thank you,
My dear friend you're about testing the amperage of the battery when you connect your meter in serie & you didi it right whereas to test voltage the meter must be connected in parallel with source & meter set on volt range...🌙🕋💝🔭🔬⚖️🩺🇵🇸☝️. 👍👌
Never seen a diesel Chrysler minivan before.😮
Haha. You must be from the US? They're nearly all diesel over here! 😉
The insulation on the link wire looked damaged perhaps it was dropped and crushef it
Yeah maybe. Been told that people go to the scrap yard and buy old starters, spray them up, and sell them as reconditioned! 🤦♂️
Is that a ground cable or positive cable coming from solenoid
Ground cable from the solenoid to the starter motor case, which is where the fault was. The positive cable feed comes from elsewhere, alternator I think?
If you think that’s a ground wire make another video with the new starter in the car and run the same test. I’m betting that wire on the new starter will now have around 9-10 volts on it when cranking.
The reason your car was starting slow was because there was only 7 volts on that wire when instead it should have been equal to battery voltage. Yes, replacing the starter fixed the issue but it was because there was a voltage drop in the + side, not the - side of the starter.
It can't be a Live wire can it otherwise the whole engine block and chassis would be Live when cranking?
@@RickTheSpud there’s a rubber grommet that the wire runs through so it doesn’t contact the case of the starter. Also, why would they shield that wire with 2 layers of wire loom if it was a ground. No need to protect a ground wire. But since it’s a live wire they are required to shield it for safety purposes.
But the big Live wire that comes from the battery goes to the other side of the solenoid?
@@RickTheSpud that’s how it’s designed to work. It relays power from one side to the other when it’s actuated 🤙
Oh Ok. Regardless of using the right terminology, that's where the fault was, and changing the starter solved it.
Have this on my motorcycle but only when hot. I will check the starter, clean it, replace solenoid. My ground is goo.d
OK buddy, hope it works! 👌
If it does, make sure you subscribe!
If it doesn't, subscribe anyway! 😉
Troca a bateria ela marca a picar 😊
Battery was good, changed the starter and it was fixed... 👊
qual era o problema?
Think it was shorting out in the starter motor, a new starter motor cured it. 👊
So its the cable and not the starter?
It's where the cable goes into the starter, so it's within the starter motor itself, so it's going back.
@@RickTheSpud p
I'm getting diagnostic code p0562 battery turned out good AutoZone cables good good connection what could be the problem
You done this test right to the cable on the starter?
Just check the starter crank sensor wires exposed touching really ugly
Outstanding
👊
Merhaba benim aracım opel vectra 1.9 cdti z19dth motor. Benim aracımın sorunu geç çalışıyor. İki veya üç kere marş tekrarı yapıyorum. Araç 2. Marşta başlatmada çalışıyor. Enjektör sağlam , kızdırma bujileri sağlam sizce sorun nedir ? Hava sıcaklığı 20 derece olsa bile çalışmakta zorlanıyor. Marş motoruda sağlam akü , pilde sağlam
Anyone translate? 🤷♂️
Hi, would a bad starter cause a sudden stall at a red light? And cranks but no start afterwards? Thanks
No don't think so, once the engine is running then the starter isn't doing anything. Could be fuel or spark?
Sounds like a bad Mass airflow sensor
Could be the Crank position sensor aswell
Nope, if it's drawing this much current when cranking it's definitely an earth fault with the starter...
This does sound like a symptom of a crank sensor
I have a question, i have a slow crank issue and a mechanic told me that the rotor(where the brushes contact the whole inside thing) was worn out and it really is kind of worn out.Any ideas what cloud the problem be.I havent done any testing yet
Ops i meant a comutator.I think.🤣👍
@@dirtbiker9687 Need a new starter or reconditioned starter mate. I got a reconditioned one from Ebay, but it lasted 2 weeks and they stopped answering my messages. I got a reconditioned one from a proper parts place and it has been fine.
Assuming all your voltages are good. Check them the same as in the video. Make sure it's not a grounding issue first.
@@RickTheSpud thanks for the fast reply.I changed the brushes and still the same also checked the ground and it was good.I can get a recoditioned one bc there are none.I dont have any other choice than to change the comutator.I will get back to tell you how it went.👍
@@dirtbiker9687 Ah ok, what's a comutator?
How many volts is the normal voltage drop?
The first test I did, 0.1 or 0.2 volts I think is normal.
Not sure what a 'problem' figure would be? Over 0.5v?
Obviously 7 volt draw was a problem! 🤦♂️😆
@@RickTheSpud I think the normal voltage drop is 2 volts, at the point you measured.
@@altezzabmw Don't think so, if you've got a 2 volt draw then you've got a short somewhere. Otherwise only 10 of your 12 volts is getting to the starter motor...
My car does this only on 1st startup of the day for 3 seconds then starts. It starts fine all day after 1st start. Only on 1st start i get problems.
Not sure. May still be starter motor, behaves once it's warmed up? 🤷♂️
Some cars have a high pressure fuel pump and the first start of the day has longest crank time, as the pump needs to build pressure after overnight gradual drop.
@@pingpong9656 True, but it won't crank over slowly, or spike 7v of voltage draw across the starter motor.
@@pingpong9656 Mine just started doing this.
awesome accent
😎😆👌
If you want to teach others how to 'troubleshoot' a car. At least make sure you fully understand the component you working on. Fixing something but giving wrong information about how a starter works is a big no no. It could potentially damage components and/or harm people when they are misinformed.
Regardless of the terms and language I didn't get 100% accurate, the way it was tested and diagnosed was on the money, and a new starter cured it. You won't damage ANYTHING by testing it with a voltmeter.
My stupid honda starter is deep under the damn car so even just checking it is a pain
Oh that's annoying! 🤦♂️
Isso é pau na bateria ela fica fraca aí ela não tem amperagem pra girar o seu motor
Long term yes, it's not good to leave your battery low or crank it a lot at low voltage, but I charged the battery after filming. 😉👌
Giggle a wire....
Giggle?
Hello
Realy hope you can help me.
Iv got a Fiat 128 1974 model
My starter ONLY keep crunking (stuck) if cold. Then i take of negative from battery and it stops. Then put cable back. Then start easy whole day. No problem.
In morning it stuck when start for 1st time the day. Its summer now in South Africa. But in winter it stuck 2 to 3 times. Then no problem to start.
If car is in sun. And start for 1st time the day sometime start 1st time without keep cranking. Sometimes keep crancking ONLY ones. Then start easy.
After it starts. I switch of and starts again. I did it 6 times. Off and start off and start. No no no problem.
Rrrrealy hope someone no what cause this. Thanks so much.
Sounds like a sticky solenoid in the starter, change the starter and that should cure it! 🤷♂️🙏
It needs to be at least 12.6 for it to start. Anything less won’t do nothing but drain your battery.
Not true. My Civic used to start on 12.2
I fixed it anyway. It was the starter.
This is not a ground wire but the + that goes to the solenoid... this video is trash sorry...
Hardly trash is it. Still helped a lot of people as it's practically accurate even tho the terminology is not 100% accurate.
Generally, the only wire that that goes from the solenoid to the motor is the 12v one that fires up the motor once the solenoid is actuated to close the contacts.
Surely that's a ground wire that completes the circuit, and grounds to the engine, which grounds to the chassis, and grounds back to the - terminal on the battery. If what you said is correct the whole engine and bodywork would be Live!
Sucks
Yep!
can't understand those bloke accents...next!!
🤷♂️
'Those bloke' ? 🤔
I can't understand @nkel6111's grammar either 😅
😜😂