Don't use the plastic furniture leg ends under your cockpit grating because they will creat points of high loading into the cockpit sole. Better to cut small V shapes into the supports to allow the water to run between the sections freely. And they're free. I also suggest that you give the sapele a good dose of teak oil especially on the underside where it will be damp most of the time. Stay safe
Been following Mads for years now. I come back after taking a brake from watching his content. (Life just got busy) However to comeback and see Athena looking as gorgeous as she is. Also to see Mads married and still so passionate about the work it takes to sail. It’s just fantastic and amazing. Love you Mads thanks man for being such a inspiration. 👌
Omg thank you so much! That was such a nice comment to read 🙂 yeah life is chucking along 🙂 I hope Ava and I will be ready to leave Mindelo and start crossing the Atlantic this weekend. The videos are currently 3 weeks behind (so that we have videos that we can publish during the crossing)
Hey Mads. Quick tip! You can buy an adapter for your Dyson Vacuum, so it runs on Makita batteries instead. Much quicker to charge, and you can replace them on the go ;)
I stepped on Mad's cockpit floor, and take from me, a real life person who was there.. . Mads you did an amazing job! You are managing quite well in "exotic" locations. See you in a few days.
Hi Mads, I just did a DIY install of a 16,000 Btu Dometic a/c unit in my own 39’er. Instilled it under the settee, with ducting up and behind the cabinetry supplying the saloon, fore to the v-berth, and aft to the aft cabin. Two bulkheads, one fore and one aft, and fourteen cabinet sides to cut 6” holes through. The cutting took me a full day. The install was straightforward, but the routing took thought and patience. I purchased mostly for air conditioning and was surprised that the heating option is actually much more valuable, extending my sailing season a month or more on both sides of the season where it’s now much more comfortable to be on the boat on a cool and chilly afternoon and evening. I’m in Toronto Canada where summer days easily get to the mid 30’s C, while evenings in the spring and fall go as low as 10 C. Can’t believe now that I went 7 seasons without it. Mine is 110V, so can’t use at anchor, but have never found the need due to fresh breezes through the boat as you explained. Good luck with your install and looking forward to the result.
Congrats on the air conditioning. We installed ours a little over a year ago in the V berth. Because it was way below the waterline we has issues with the drain however. On really humid days it produced lots more water than anticipated and had our bilge pump working a little to much. A simple install of a $50 US condensate pump from a mini-split heat pump did the trick. The water is now pumped direct from the drain pan to the rain catch system. Gives us around a liter of fresh water a day for rinsing dishes and such. The AC does require cleaning on a regular basis and the air filters clog easily, but it is definitely worth it. Keep up the good work and look forward to the next one.
Mads try scooter tires. Used tires are always around, you can usually get them for free, and they work great. Here in San Francisco they are used all the time.
A temporary fix for the compensators would be some decent 'Bungee' cords and two saddle clamp 'U-bolts'. clamp two loops in the mooring line just far enough apart to be under the max stretch of the Bungee cords (or, get fancy and tie bowline loops), then hook the cords to the loops and use pliers to clinch the metal hooks closed. It can all be undone when the 'real' compensators arrive and you'll still have some useful clamps and bungees!
Please keep in mind that marine ac units are very loud. My boyfriend has a Pearson 365. He put the unit in the v-berth where we sleep. When that ac cycles on and off it wakes you right up. The noise when heat is on is even worse. I would suggest putting it in a location farther away from where you sleep.
You need a wind vein second rudder. I have found that electric auto pilots fail. And then again, having the spare parts is good but you probably would spare your parts if you had that wind vein.
I think you’ll find the air conditioning will make it more bearable in the Caribbean, too. It’s amazing what knocking the heat out of the boat for an hour can do to make sleep more comfortable. You won’t need to run it all night (like you will on the east coast of US in the summer) but if it breaks…you will want it fixed! Have Eva bring the plastic furniture do-hickeys. You’ll want the water draining as freely as possible.
On a fancy HH cat they instead (or also) have a tiny AC-unit for the bed. They have a curtain/drapery/drape that acts as a barrier between the bed and the rest of the boat. That way you can sleep in an AC space, but it keeps the power draw to an absolute minimum. You can see that boat for yourselves. It was the larger HH that the Wynns were on recently.
Spiffy deck mate! Tip for your compensators: Use a Y arrangement between stern-, dock- and spring clamps. That way you can take a lot of strain in bad winds and even use the compensators on the spring side with reduced load, just make sure the aft lines never go taught. That way the compensators last longer. Also climbing ropes laid in multiples are excellent compensators and you have a long thin rope on hand if you need one. Cheers
You are continuing to complete the extensive refit.😉 Suggestions: (1) Fingerhole in the grating above the fuel fill. (2) If you do put the AC unit in the ‘wardrobe’, no need to trash the door - just a removable panel of the appropriate size.😉👍⛵️
Have a good think about placing your air-con unit so close to your main bed. They are loud enough and the nature of how they sound can be quite annoying. I don't think you would want that next to your bed, especially if you are replacing the solid wood door with louvers.
It might be a good idea to fix the floor grates for what i can see 2 reasons. Damage and personal safety. All it need now is 1 big breaking wave onto the cockpit to start floating the not so light grates. Specially the back one is so heavy that you don't want this banging around in what is then has become a rocking bathtub. And for sure one day it will happen simply because of the duration of travel.
That cockpit sole looks amazing. Well done. Our factory production version is very similar in that it is in two sections like yours. However it isn't as well made as yours and was an optional extra at nearly 5 times the price in 2002.
My dad & I made the cockpit sole grid for Wavedancer from reclaimed teak (his brother had bought in auction 30 years ago) he had in storage in his yard sheds
Another way to make the new wooden cockpit sole let water pass, would be using your router to build big canals front to aft in the supports. That way you wouldn't raise the sole once more and could work with what you have now. They would have to be at least 50mm wide, but if they are rounded, the chance of something getting stuck there, is minimized.
Nice work on the cockpit grate Mads. It looks like the AC install is going to be a major project. You might consider using perforated cane panels similar to the caning on chairs for the locker door to improve ventilation. Take care and thank you for sharing your adventure.
Mass a good friend of mine works at the airport. He has a hearing aid it translates for you. You said it to the language then you hear your language as they speak in as you speak translate to theirs so you can take it out and let them here. You should probably look it up.
Hi Guys From your video, Your autopilot problem apparently from my angle here. Is that the base of your cylinder is on a horizontal axis and the rudder is on a vertical axis. Creating a lot of bending stress on the rod of the piston. The base of the piston should be also in a vertical axis, to allow it to rotate with the rudder.
Can I suggest when you are doing Timelapse on board. Can you turn stabilisation off on the camera. Then it will track with Athena instead of holding the horizon level and causing the subject from bobbing all over the place.
Have to give a shout-out to your technical acumen and creativity ! Your explanations are clear and you make it appear simple , but to some of us mortals , your end results are magical ! Looking forward to the A/C project ! If anybody can do it , my money is on Mads !
That was a nice job on the c/p decking! We know what you did with Athena in a controlled 'shop' environment! Now we know how well you perform on an 'expedient' DIY! It looks nice!
Have you considered the noise level of the unit in relation to your bed? An AC unit will do you no good if you can't run it because it keeps you awake!
On a fancy HH cat they instead just have an AC for the bed. Then they have a drape that acts as a barrier between the bed and the rest of the boat. That way you can sleep in an AC space, but it keeps the power draw to an absolute minimum. You can see that boat for yourselves. It was the larger HH that the Wynns were on.
Before you build a new louvre door, drill a nice pattern in the door and and a thin board on the back behind the holes. Space it off 1/2” to 3/4” and the air will flow just fine. The backer board will keep the clothes from plugging the holes. Time to get out the hole saw and pencils.
I'm not familiar with the nature of timber that you've used for your cockpit decking but I wonder if you should apply some kind of protective coating versus moisture and slipping? ... another fine presentation Mads... Thank you and well done..
As always a nice video, good Sunday evening entertainment. The floor looks very good. Why don't you fix the wooden plate for the diesel access with a construction of strong magnets, so it will hopefully always stay in place.
Having it in the hanging locker will allow the return/supply air to be in a closed circuit allowing you to only cool the forward cabin if/when you need to run it overnight (w/ salon vents closed). Hopefully it won't be very loud in there.
You may be surprised at the temps in the Caribbean. I've been on a couple live-aboards there and HOLY HECK was it HOT. I'm like you, cold doesn't really bother me as much as heat...and I'll tell you what, I was sweating just sitting. Unfortunately live-aboard dive trips are way too "this is the number of dives we do" and I didn't have as much "bottom time" as I'd like...and thus was not able to stay as cool. Thankfully, we did have AC on these boats so I did tend to spend quite a bit of time inside in the cool air. :)
Installing the AC unit sounds like a project full of glorious struggle in cramped spaces, so I will be looking out for Danish curses, of which there have been too few these last two years. Can you promise us at least one "åh for satan i helvede" Mads?
I love watching your boat work videos, been watching your channel for a long time, but you're driving me crazy with waiting for everything to be perfect before your crossing....its almost like you are looking for reasons to hold off. Get Ava on board and go already!!!
URGENT I repeat Hi Guys From your video, Your autopilot problem apparently from my angle here. Is that the base of your cylinder is on a horizontal axis and the rudder is on a vertical axis. Creating a lot of bending stress on the rod of the piston. The base of the piston should be also in a vertical axis, to allow it to rotate with the rudder.
Cockpit sole turned out pretty dang spiffy old mate. I'm sure your gonna hit it with some epoxy too right? Glad Eva's making the crossing with you to Mads.
Why don’t you cut notches in the bottom of the supports for your cockpit grate to let the water pass. Remember crossing the Atlantic your get squid and flying fish in the cockpit and on deck so you’ll get more than water aboard.
read up on sheet to tiller. Works well. At least you have a good battery system. Nothing worse than a lovely location and some A&**(&^% hole with a generator going all night.
After running round ducting everywhere for a/c I redid it with ducts made from 1/2 in insulation and 3m aluminum tape. Built in in situ, self supporting. all the vent openings were round fittings to square vents anyway.
I bought some bits from Boat CV and my bank promptly blocked my card. Not what you want so far from home. As for squeaky lines, use three strand nylon/polyester and tie a tension line between them.
The wooden deck looks great and will probably feel good to walk on. You might consider what might happen if you get a wave into the cockpit. Just make sure a floating deck cover won't cause too many problems around the cockpit.
Mads why not make some cockpit sole feet for the wood you have. and EPOXY Coat them so they are sealed and use them which will be easy and a cheaper way.
Don't use the plastic furniture leg ends under your cockpit grating because they will creat points of high loading into the cockpit sole. Better to cut small V shapes into the supports to allow the water to run between the sections freely. And they're free. I also suggest that you give the sapele a good dose of teak oil especially on the underside where it will be damp most of the time. Stay safe
Been following Mads for years now. I come back after taking a brake from watching his content. (Life just got busy)
However to comeback and see Athena looking as gorgeous as she is. Also to see Mads married and still so passionate about the work it takes to sail. It’s just fantastic and amazing. Love you Mads thanks man for being such a inspiration. 👌
Omg thank you so much! That was such a nice comment to read 🙂 yeah life is chucking along 🙂 I hope Ava and I will be ready to leave Mindelo and start crossing the Atlantic this weekend. The videos are currently 3 weeks behind (so that we have videos that we can publish during the crossing)
@@SailLife Ahh thats super smart way to venture! Love it man! Well I cant wait to see your future vids and upcoming content! Cheers again Mads and Ava
Hey Mads. Quick tip! You can buy an adapter for your Dyson Vacuum, so it runs on Makita batteries instead.
Much quicker to charge, and you can replace them on the go ;)
I stepped on Mad's cockpit floor, and take from me, a real life person who was there..
. Mads you did an amazing job! You are managing quite well in "exotic" locations. See you in a few days.
Hell yeah, was hoping you two would hook up!
Love the Attitude! Working on the cockpit sole you said, "The aft section would be the trickiest, so I will start there." Shows a lot of spirit.
Hi Mads, I just did a DIY install of a 16,000 Btu Dometic a/c unit in my own 39’er. Instilled it under the settee, with ducting up and behind the cabinetry supplying the saloon, fore to the v-berth, and aft to the aft cabin. Two bulkheads, one fore and one aft, and fourteen cabinet sides to cut 6” holes through. The cutting took me a full day. The install was straightforward, but the routing took thought and patience. I purchased mostly for air conditioning and was surprised that the heating option is actually much more valuable, extending my sailing season a month or more on both sides of the season where it’s now much more comfortable to be on the boat on a cool and chilly afternoon and evening. I’m in Toronto Canada where summer days easily get to the mid 30’s C, while evenings in the spring and fall go as low as 10 C. Can’t believe now that I went 7 seasons without it. Mine is 110V, so can’t use at anchor, but have never found the need due to fresh breezes through the boat as you explained. Good luck with your install and looking forward to the result.
Congrats on the air conditioning. We installed ours a little over a year ago in the V berth. Because it was way below the waterline we has issues with the drain however. On really humid days it produced lots more water than anticipated and had our bilge pump working a little to much. A simple install of a $50 US condensate pump from a mini-split heat pump did the trick. The water is now pumped direct from the drain pan to the rain catch system. Gives us around a liter of fresh water a day for rinsing dishes and such. The AC does require cleaning on a regular basis and the air filters clog easily, but it is definitely worth it. Keep up the good work and look forward to the next one.
Thrilled to hear you're eventually headed for the Chesapeake. You should time your arrival in Annapolis with the annual in-water boat show.
Mads try scooter tires. Used tires are always around, you can usually get them for free, and they work great. Here in San Francisco they are used all the time.
A temporary fix for the compensators would be some decent 'Bungee' cords and two saddle clamp 'U-bolts'. clamp two loops in the mooring line just far enough apart to be under the max stretch of the Bungee cords (or, get fancy and tie bowline loops), then hook the cords to the loops and use pliers to clinch the metal hooks closed. It can all be undone when the 'real' compensators arrive and you'll still have some useful clamps and bungees!
Best channel on TH-cam 😊
Please keep in mind that marine ac units are very loud. My boyfriend has a Pearson 365. He put the unit in the v-berth where we sleep. When that ac cycles on and off it wakes you right up. The noise when heat is on is even worse. I would suggest putting it in a location farther away from where you sleep.
Lovely bit of decking Mads. Some groves cut under I think might be better to drain, no point loading then. Love your channel.
I made my wood cockpit grate exactly the same but I cut a notch in each of tee bottom supports for drainage and it works fine
You need a wind vein second rudder. I have found that electric auto pilots fail. And then again, having the spare parts is good but you probably would spare your parts if you had that wind vein.
I think you’ll find the air conditioning will make it more bearable in the Caribbean, too. It’s amazing what knocking the heat out of the boat for an hour can do to make sleep more comfortable. You won’t need to run it all night (like you will on the east coast of US in the summer) but if it breaks…you will want it fixed!
Have Eva bring the plastic furniture do-hickeys. You’ll want the water draining as freely as possible.
On a fancy HH cat they instead (or also) have a tiny AC-unit for the bed. They have a curtain/drapery/drape that acts as a barrier between the bed and the rest of the boat. That way you can sleep in an AC space, but it keeps the power draw to an absolute minimum. You can see that boat for yourselves. It was the larger HH that the Wynns were on recently.
If the Caribean is so hot and inhospitable, I wonder why everyone wants to be there. I'd rather be in some place where I don't need aircooling.
You’ve put so much hi tech stuff into that boat I think it’s brilliant.
Spiffy deck mate! Tip for your compensators: Use a Y arrangement between stern-, dock- and spring clamps. That way you can take a lot of strain in bad winds and even use the compensators on the spring side with reduced load, just make sure the aft lines never go taught. That way the compensators last longer. Also climbing ropes laid in multiples are excellent compensators and you have a long thin rope on hand if you need one. Cheers
You are continuing to complete the extensive refit.😉 Suggestions: (1) Fingerhole in the grating above the fuel fill. (2) If you do put the AC unit in the ‘wardrobe’, no need to trash the door - just a removable panel of the appropriate size.😉👍⛵️
another option would be to cut an opening and use a grate (probably metal).
Have a good think about placing your air-con unit so close to your main bed. They are loud enough and the nature of how they sound can be quite annoying. I don't think you would want that next to your bed, especially if you are replacing the solid wood door with louvers.
Great job with the grate! I was think of the same thing for your little dingy. It might have to be creative to keep it from moving when you step in.
It might be a good idea to fix the floor grates for what i can see 2 reasons. Damage and personal safety. All it need now is 1 big breaking wave onto the cockpit to start floating the not so light grates. Specially the back one is so heavy that you don't want this banging around in what is then has become a rocking bathtub. And for sure one day it will happen simply because of the duration of travel.
Your workmanship is unbelievable you sir are awesome your quality workmanship is commendable
That cockpit sole looks amazing. Well done. Our factory production version is very similar in that it is in two sections like yours. However it isn't as well made as yours and was an optional extra at nearly 5 times the price in 2002.
The return air duct will draw all the dust in the boat through that hanging locker. It will liberally dust anything you hang there.
Mads, you're not entirely alone on the boat. Someone opened the door behind you while you were opening the seatee at 14:57 )))
That's just the roll of the boat
My dad & I made the cockpit sole grid for Wavedancer from reclaimed teak (his brother had bought in auction 30 years ago) he had in storage in his yard sheds
Another way to make the new wooden cockpit sole let water pass, would be using your router to build big canals front to aft in the supports. That way you wouldn't raise the sole once more and could work with what you have now. They would have to be at least 50mm wide, but if they are rounded, the chance of something getting stuck there, is minimized.
If you have the cockpit drains aft, the first layer of sole support should run lengthwise.
Nice work on the cockpit grate Mads. It looks like the AC install is going to be a major project. You might consider using perforated cane panels similar to the caning on chairs for the locker door to improve ventilation. Take care and thank you for sharing your adventure.
Mass a good friend of mine works at the airport. He has a hearing aid it translates for you. You said it to the language then you hear your language as they speak in as you speak translate to theirs so you can take it out and let them here. You should probably look it up.
How about test sailing the boat ever day for other problems
Hi Guys From your video, Your autopilot problem apparently from my angle here. Is that the base of your cylinder is on a horizontal axis and the rudder is on a vertical axis.
Creating a lot of bending stress on the rod of the piston. The base of the piston should be also in a vertical axis, to allow it to rotate with the rudder.
Can I suggest when you are doing Timelapse on board. Can you turn stabilisation off on the camera. Then it will track with Athena instead of holding the horizon level and causing the subject from bobbing all over the place.
This is when (as i said years ago ;-)) a winch on a removable plate and swop in a vice on a plate etc ;-)
Have to give a shout-out to your technical acumen and creativity ! Your explanations are clear and you make it appear simple , but to some of us mortals , your end results are magical !
Looking forward to the A/C project ! If anybody can do it , my money is on Mads !
That was a nice job on the c/p decking! We know what you did with Athena in a controlled 'shop' environment! Now we know how well you perform on an 'expedient' DIY! It looks nice!
Thanks for the video! Nice wood work for the deck. Suggestion: For the next mooring compensators consider the metal spring type.
you could just fix a jerrycan full with water/fuel to the mooring line. sunk in the water it will not pull. lifted up it will
Have you considered the noise level of the unit in relation to your bed? An AC unit will do you no good if you can't run it because it keeps you awake!
Amen! Marine ac units are horribly loud.
Beautiful job on the grate.
Love your channel.
Aim to set sail soon myself… can’t wait.
Fair winds and looking forward to the Atlantic Crossing.
AC unit behind the dryer mate .... by far the best option.
Warm wind doesnt cool,
Thats why we use blinds and close the windows during day time, in the south.
Good episode
Thanks for the videos. If you regularly spill diesel when filling up, like I do, you won't be able to clean up as it will run under your new sole.
On a fancy HH cat they instead just have an AC for the bed. Then they have a drape that acts as a barrier between the bed and the rest of the boat. That way you can sleep in an AC space, but it keeps the power draw to an absolute minimum. You can see that boat for yourselves. It was the larger HH that the Wynns were on.
Before you build a new louvre door, drill a nice pattern in the door and and a thin board on the back behind the holes. Space it off 1/2” to 3/4” and the air will flow just fine. The backer board will keep the clothes from plugging the holes. Time to get out the hole saw and pencils.
Loving the helm floor, are you going to secure it down in any way? I'd hate to see a wave crash over the stern, and it float off!
For straighter cuts with the jig saw. Use your square as a fence to keep the jig saw square and straight. East fix.
I'm not familiar with the nature of timber that you've used for your cockpit decking but I wonder if you should apply some kind of protective coating versus moisture and slipping? ... another fine presentation Mads... Thank you and well done..
Hey Mads make sure you get some kind of lanyard to attach to the diesel access so it doesn’t get lost! great video!
As always a nice video, good Sunday evening entertainment.
The floor looks very good.
Why don't you fix the wooden plate for the diesel access with a construction of strong magnets, so it will hopefully always stay in place.
Great job on the Grate Mads. I am sure any inconsistency in the spacing will
stop grating on your nerves after a short time.
you can make one groove to the support to enable water flow in the right direction to the drain
Having it in the hanging locker will allow the return/supply air to be in a closed circuit allowing you to only cool the forward cabin if/when you need to run it overnight (w/ salon vents closed). Hopefully it won't be very loud in there.
I love watching this channel. I'm so invested. ⛵
You may be surprised at the temps in the Caribbean. I've been on a couple live-aboards there and HOLY HECK was it HOT. I'm like you, cold doesn't really bother me as much as heat...and I'll tell you what, I was sweating just sitting. Unfortunately live-aboard dive trips are way too "this is the number of dives we do" and I didn't have as much "bottom time" as I'd like...and thus was not able to stay as cool. Thankfully, we did have AC on these boats so I did tend to spend quite a bit of time inside in the cool air. :)
I had the same problem with those mooring shock absorbes in the med. Replaced them with a spring attachment.
Glue a magnet under the diesel cover wood block. So that in bad weather it doesn't go overboard!!
In a pinch get used rubber inter tubs for mooring compensators. Cheap, easy to get.
I have been sailing the Chesapeake for over 20 years and if you plan to sail the US Mid Atlantic coast, you will definitely want AC! Great video!
I'm betting you will use the A/C a lot more than you think once you feel the comfort. 😎 Cockpit decking looks extremely nice, good job.
Installing the AC unit sounds like a project full of glorious struggle in cramped spaces, so I will be looking out for Danish curses, of which there have been too few these last two years. Can you promise us at least one "åh for satan i helvede" Mads?
I love watching your boat work videos, been watching your channel for a long time, but you're driving me crazy with waiting for everything to be perfect before your crossing....its almost like you are looking for reasons to hold off. Get Ava on board and go already!!!
When you get to the Chesapeake we will have to meet up and do a little podcasting!
you can make a mooring compensator from a old tire or steel spring
That decking looks pro!
the dryer area seems to be out of the way with alot of room easier install /service . double up cut away
Sapale is lovely exotic wood have a louvered door made out of it for your AC and your local place - And your cockpit looks great -
You can use dishwashing soap on sceycy ropes
URGENT I repeat
Hi Guys From your video, Your autopilot problem apparently from my angle here. Is that the base of your cylinder is on a horizontal axis and the rudder is on a vertical axis.
Creating a lot of bending stress on the rod of the piston. The base of the piston should be also in a vertical axis, to allow it to rotate with the rudder.
6:53 could also have a pulley system with a stainless a steel spring wrapped in fabric to avoid damage from touching. Rubber has limits.
youre never alone on that boat, you're just besides yourself.
I made my toe rails from Sapele. Looks great, was a third the price of teak,and was easy to work and bend
I would install the ac under the setee for noise abatement. The thing will be noisy for the occupants of the v berth. Just my thoughts.
Cockpit sole turned out pretty dang spiffy old mate. I'm sure your gonna hit it with some epoxy too right? Glad Eva's making the crossing with you to Mads.
Nice job doing more DIY. It looks like you are shooting for the Annapolis boat show for the fall.
maybe u could use the small plastic caps for the things that keep doors from smashing the wall.
Another great video Mads .
Missed Ava .
Would love to see you guys head up to Lake Ontario Canada. Great sailing and people. If your heading up the east coast of USA
Make sure its watercooled aircon
Wonder if you asked Eva about using the hanging locker... lol😊
Hej Mads. Tak for alle videoerne. Jeg har i mange år brugt et 6 kg vægtlod midt på fortøjningerne når jeg ligger på en urolig Havneplads.
Bare et forslag😉
Why replace the door? Just install a vent
those lil plastic bits for the bottom of the wood since you can't find it just make them out of resin
Why don’t you cut notches in the bottom of the supports for your cockpit grate to let the water pass. Remember crossing the Atlantic your get squid and flying fish in the cockpit and on deck so you’ll get more than water aboard.
Mads, if the Chesapeake is in your plans, you might consider a visit to St Michaels on the Eastern Shore's Miles River.
About the mooring compensators: Maybe a turn less of rope?
read up on sheet to tiller. Works well. At least you have a good battery system. Nothing worse than a lovely location and some A&**(&^% hole with a generator going all night.
You can get round to rectangular plenum fittings if your worried about squeezing into tight spaces
After running round ducting everywhere for a/c I redid it with ducts made from 1/2 in insulation and 3m aluminum tape. Built in in situ, self supporting. all the vent openings were round fittings to square vents anyway.
With all the upgrades, how close to the original design displacement?
Awesome. I didn't think you'd hit the Chesapeake Bay. Think about any meet and greets for your East Coast Fans?
Is the air conditioning unit going to be noisy? That may inform where you site it. Isn’t the hanging locker in the cabin where you sleep?
I bought some bits from Boat CV and my bank promptly blocked my card. Not what you want so far from home. As for squeaky lines, use three strand nylon/polyester and tie a tension line between them.
Blue water project or not
Your going to need a bigger boat for all the tech on board.
Turn the jigsaw upside down for better precision.
"Hi guys, welcome aboard my DIY project that doubles as a sailboat! We aspire to sail across the Atlantic in 2055!"
Top job and of course a spiffy one too of the little deck board
The wooden deck looks great and will probably feel good to walk on. You might consider what might happen if you get a wave into the cockpit. Just make sure a floating deck cover won't cause too many problems around the cockpit.
He can/should attach a line underneath the grate and cover in case.
Mads why not make some cockpit sole feet for the wood you have. and EPOXY Coat them so they are sealed and use them which will be easy and a cheaper way.