Build a Shoulder Plane using only Hand Tools! | Woodworking Plans Available
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Etsy plans available here:
www.etsy.com/T...
Build this shoulder plane using only hand tools (with the exception of a battery-powered drill).
This is actually the fourth shoulder/rabbet plane I've made, and the second metal-body infill should plane. I've made two wooden ones with fences and two metal with infill.
In this video I show you the entire process, as best and as detailed as possible, of taking metal and wood, and a few simple tools, and turning it into a real, working, precision shoulder plane.
Link to WoodRiver iron: www.woodcraft....
I really do hope you have enjoyed this video. Please feel free to check out my other social profiles.
Instagram: / thehandtoolery
Facebook: TheHandToolery
My Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/s...
Last thing-you need to check out Chad LeMay’s channel. He made that tiny wooden square you see me using when I’m checking two pieces of metal at the beginning of the video. Link: • Making a small try square
Thanks!
Andrew
Nice work all around. A tool to give to your grandchildren.
What a great guide, makes it look very achievable
Seeing what you do with files and a hacksaw is very impressive. I'd have needed the Bridgeport and lathe at my job to do this project LOL. Great work!
Nicely done!
Nice work. Nothing more gratifying than making a beautiful and functional tool.
Thank you! I use it all the time!
Not only does it look beautiful, but it even works! Congratulations.
great job; never apologize for your minor mistakes it worked beautifully . Thanks
Thanks for the encouragement!
I give ya credit for all that filing brother. Good job and awesome tool you can pass down to your children someday.
Thank you! Man, that filing was not fun, but you are right--I'm very happy with it now and expect it to have a long, useful life!
Great work, only thing i would have changed is the orientation of the walls and floor, floor going all the way across and walls meeting the floor at its wall
Wow. I would have give up a long time ago.
I’ve been woodworking for more than 10 years but working with steel is another level for me that I’m afraid to even start trying.
Very cool and I admire your commitment to finish it.
Keep up the good work.
Thank you! It was tedious at times, but rewarding!
Wonderful job. I happen to have an iron. Seen this some time ago and now have the confidence to try. I hope to use brass so thinking of a prototype first😎 thanks for the lovely clarity.👍
Nice!! Definitely should try it!
Well done! And extra credits for the "limited tools" approach, I really enjoyed that.
Perseverance, squared! Thanks for showing how it's done. Nice work.
Thanks!! This was definitely a project that needed perseverance, but it was also a real joy!
This woodworking book *TopFineWoodworking. Com* contains a great deal of details about woodwork. There are some designs in the book but it is primarily explaining the procedure of how to do various things and what tools to use to accomplish them. In general, this book fulfilled my basic desire to learn about wood working.?
Excellent!
Great work Andrew :) They look fantastic to work with :) ॐ
Nice to see this done with hand-tools only. Well done.
Your handmade shoulder plane is real and organic and it has precision result on woodwork, its work well man.. i trust your pruduct and and i dont give a damn about the scratch and the look 👍👍✨
Thank you for the kind words! I love it and use it all the time! The scratch is definitely organic like you say. Thanks again!!
Very well done. I like that you left in all the little imperfections. I find those kinds of things add nice character to a tool. Just want to mention a couple things that might help you out with your pins next time though. :)
From my understanding, most screws/nuts/bolts that are made of brass tend to be hardened brass. Or at least harder than the brass rod one would normally use for pins like this. That makes it much harder to upset the material uniformly into the counter sunken holes. There are two ways to get a nicer fit. The easiest would be to anneal the brass first. The process is the opposite of steel hardening. So you'd heat the brass, then cool it rapidly to anneal it.
The other would be to use a heavy fixed center punch to get the brass moving in a uniform direction outward into the base of the counter sunken hole (Strike in the center of the pin a few good times). Then follow with a ball peen hammer.
Lot of hard work and you did a nice job! Congratulations!
Great job man.
Thank you!
Good show, good show
Thank you!
Amazing
Nice Job!
A tip, when you have to cut or drill two pieces that have to be mirror pieces, use double sided tape to hold them together while going through those processes. That will guarantee accuracy. Doing them separately allows for error when doing it by hand.
можно и на суперклей...
I must hand it to you that you did a brilliant job on this project! I personally know what you went through to accomplish this and it was not easy at any stretch of the imagination. When I was your age I had the sam tenacity as you and shared a comparable skill set. I also always enjoyed working on projects just as you do. Good luck on your endeavors and I am sure that if you apply yourself you will be successful in all you do.
Thanks,
I will be watching!
Very nice! Thank you.
Awesome build, man. Really nice work.
Hey flaws and all its still a great functional tool and it was a great learning project for when you make another one. I would suggest aluminum body on the next one.
Thank you!
Just... Wow.
Great video, sir.
Enjoyed this video! Thank you.
Bonito trabajo gracias por el video
Gracias a ti por haber mirado!
Great video! Excellent craftsmanship, once I get my shop up and running i will try your design!
Definitely adding this to my list of projects. I was actually looking at plane blades this morning and saw a shoulder plane blade, so excellent timing for your video! It came out great!
It turned out really nice. Congrats mate!
Thank you!! I use it all the time!
Sure. I've been thinking for a while of making a dovetailed infill one too. Let's see if I jump off the cliff...
Haha! Give it a try for sure! At worst you lose a little time and some money for the metal. But at best you have a beautiful functional tool that you made!!
They look fantastic!
Awesome build....Chad Stanton sent me! LOL I am now subscribed!
I really enjoy your work, thanks for sharing
So great ! i'm totaly.. it's yeah so great !
Haha! Glad you like it!
Great job.
Chad Stanton mentioned your channel.. glad he did.
You are a genius, love!
thank you good job
Looks good, I try to instill in my student that Working Mart,Not Hard is the perfered way to go
You definately over worked the project. When it was done it looked great.
I’m a huge proponent of smart over hard! Sometimes I just like to work hard for hard’s sake! Here I wanted to show just how basic you could go and still get a good result. Thanks!
Good job my friend. By the way, invest in a Stanley hack saw. There built very well and handle good. There about 15 $ you will notice a big difference in performance.
Honestly, I need a new hacksaw. That one I use in the video is soooo cheap. It's actually broken. The "bolt" that holds the blade on is bent, and it keep slipping off, so I use coat hanger wire to secure it! Yikes! I'll look into that Stanley :)
Or build one similar to a frame or turning saw, just cut a metal cutting bandsaw blade to length and you've got a custom hacksaw
Great job Andrew, All with hand tools, I can't believe it :)
Pretty cool project, nice work sir
great build! how long whole process took? word of advice... instead off high gloss use Scotch-Brite and make it satin finish, no finger marks and it looks so elegant with no effort at all.
Beautiful plane...nicely done! Be sure to clean-up your woodworking bench and vice of all traces of steel filings and chips that resulted from the cutting and sanding of the steel plates otherwise you run the risk of transferring steel debris onto your future wood working projects. Once on the wood steel particulate will react with water-based finishes resulting in rust streaks under the finish.
Sweetness man!
yes I do. and thanks man!
I have a #78 and a 1” skew-mouthed shoulder plane. I’ve been on the look out for a 1/2” or 12-13mm straight-mouthed shoulder plane for a while. I happed to have a redundant #78 blade, so all I need is the metal.
Nice! While not perfect, it works really well! I have been thinking about trying to make a wood body version as it might be more accessible for people to build and you don’t have to go and buy metal :) Even so, it’s not terrible, just tedious with filing and what not.
Since I read *TopFineWoodworking. Com* , I think nothing will ever surpass it as an outstanding woodworking book. The book consists of attractive images as well as drawings and also reader-friendly text. I consider this book a "must have" since it supplies a broad range of information on just about everything working with woodworking and does it quite well.?
Old brass door kickplates would work for this in place of the bar stock I bet
Good idea!
Too thin, way too thin
Great job!! 😁🌲
The HandToolery thanks!
Looks awesome
awesome job.
Great job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 what kind of wood is that East India rosewood ???
Hey! Thanks! It’s black walnut :) beautiful stuff to work with.
Do a drawing for one of them once you get tired of having duplicates. Or dont do a drawing and just send it to me! I love it! 😉
😂😂 let me think it over... haha
The HandToolery it’s the only logical thing to do....I mean, sending it to me
fantástico
Thank you!!
Nice build! Now that you've used it for 9 months, would you do anything differently? Would you build another one?
Hey! Thank you! I love it. I actually have two of them now-one I keep for light cuts and the other for heavier cuts. I wouldn’t change much if anything, actually! I would however like to find a way to keep the same design but make a smaller mouth opening. That would be on the wish list I guess! Take care !
Could you substitute brass for the steel? Whilst not as durable as steel it’s certainly easier for a novice to work and shape with hand tools.
Yes! I am pretty sure many of these planes have been made using brass in the past!
good mucho good
Will I ever make one of these in Brazil?
Sim! Just do it!
Very impressive! How many hours did it take you to do?
It does look as though your design relies upon the wood as an integral part of the structure rather than being an 'infill' in a steel plane. Of course wood moves with the seasons, have you found this to be a problem?
Exactly. It’s really a very small amount of wood, and I’ve never noticed it moving at all, though it surely is. Both planes are holding up perfectly!
Oh, and also, my shop is in the basement, which stays about the same temp and humidity year round.
The HandToolery so you have a cave as a workshop!
Yup!
I’m here just from that beautiful thumbnail.
Great work!
I'm coming into woodworking from a metalworking background, so of course this interests me greatly. Do you think the plates need to be a full 1/8"? Or can they be thinner? Does the added mass help with the function of the plane?
I am not an expert, but from what I have read (mostly from "The Wooden Plane" by John Whelan, some other non-specific-to-planes books and various places on the internet):
The function of the plates in a shoulder plane is to make the tool more abrasion-resistant, not really to add mass. A shoulder plane is used for the squaring up of tenon shoulders (hence the name) which involves a lot of contact against rough endgrain and the requirement that the sole remain square to the cheeks. This style also was historically used on mitre planes, with other types being relatively rare. The infill style predates the processes needed to make both the metal adjustment mechanisms like in transitional planes and the fully cast iron and steel bodied planes. Thinner metal should be fine as antique examples used either thicker dovetailed plates or a single, folded thinner piece. The mass shouldn't be an issue unless you make your plane very small, in which case just be use to use a relatively dense wood as the the infill. You may want to make a pair with alternately skewed blades to make its job easier by permitting the slicing through of the endgrain (reducing tearout as well) but this isn't absolutely necessary. The important bits are the squareness and flatness and the 10 degree, bevel up, bedding angle.
You're welcome, most examples aren't skewed from what I have read, but they did exist in small numbers. I don't know why exactly.
If you're interested in some more historical techniques you should check out Joseph Moxon's Mechanick Exercises: blog.lostartpress.com/2013/05/13/free-download-joseph-moxons-mechanick-exercises/ (free since it's from 1703 and thus long been in public domain). The section linked is on joinery but there's also a section on blacksmithing before it and other trades after. I've been slowly chewing through it and thought it was interesting how much your metalwork on the plane here lines up with many of the cold working techniques he describes.
Of course the possibilities today for cold work are a lot more interesting, since Moxon didn't have mild steel, modern files and hacksaws, silicon carbide sandpaper, power drills (I forgive you for that despite the title being "only hand tools" since metal drilling by hand is... just tedous and requires special equipment :P ) or other such things.
One issue with going thinner is that the sides need to be lapped, and since they are steel will need to be lapped whenever they rust because part of the use of a shoulder plane is to index against the sides, so if they are rough the entire tool is toast. You might be ok with 3/32, possibly 1/16, but I really wouldn't go thinner without switching to tool steel.
Put the top of your steel “side” plates down in the vice more to make filing easier and you won’t need the C-clamp!
how would aluminum work instead of the steel frame? I have some aluminum stock and some purple heart. I have enough for all 3 sizes.
The HandToolery I have some brass screws I will be using for the rivets.
I don't see a way to post a picture so I will have to make it my profile picture when done.
The HandToolery I would love to but only camra is my cellphone and I have no editing skills, no time and money to invest in TH-cam channels. Also have no clue how to do it.
yes, I was a nail biter too until I saw myself biting in a mirror window walking down the street.... stopped that day.
I made my plane using 316L stainless steel, similar design but a pain in the a$$ to cut and file.
Cheers
How much rupees it costs sir
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍
Thank you!
I check a lot of woodworking handbooks. These one from woodprix are the best.
No they are not.
@@TheHandToolery They are the best of those I know
:D God bless you!
What’s frustrating about this project is that I purchased the plans for this plane, but the details for the wedge(s) in the plans don’t match the way its demonstrated in this video.
Sorry to hear that. How can I help??
I messaged you through Etsy!
@@TheHandToolery Thanks for getting back to me. The issue I’m having is that the description/diagrams in the plans show all the lines for the two-part wedge converging on a single point at the base, however in this video you are using a template piece for the 11 degrees which extends the opening by an unknown length from the first line drawn. It’s a bit confusing.
Ah… I see! Sorry about that confusion. So, I made the video before I made the plans. The plans reflect a more methodical way of doing things. So follow the plans. All the measurements are good in the PDF and the SketchUp. The wedge in the video was just convenient at the time. The important thing is that the wedge that you actually remove has about a 10-11 degree angle.
Again, sorry for the confusion!!
I prefer to build with woodprix plans.
Hello sir please help me
What can I help you with?
Hello sir please thia send project scratch
sir any Time a new projects ready please send this scatch and sizes
Much thanks for the video. Your arteries are popping out on you hands. You might want to check out your blood pressure next time you drive by a drug store. Everyone should live as long as possible.
All that means is he has good circulation, nothing wrong with seeing veins when you are in shape and have these things called 💪 muscles