I Bought 1-Star Tools on Amazon
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
- I Bough 1-Star Tools on Amazon
I took some inspiration from other youtubers and bought some tools that had awful reviews to see if they're actually awful
Grab yourself some Shop Shades - bit.ly/ShopShades_Unscrewed
Want to see me buy more tools ?
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#1StarTools #woodworkingtools #diytools
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The people that are complaining about sparks and smell on the brushed tools, obviously don't understand that all new brushed machines will do that from new, until the brushes bed in. If it keeps doing it after days of use or is really excessive, then take the tool back, as it's faulty, otherwise it's nothing to worry about.
I also wonder what said "clutch" is on this little fella. And what is the smell of it😅
It's kinda scary how many ADULT men do not know this. Like literal "professionals", and I do want to note I use that term very loosely. Basically all of our new work force generation have only used brushless motors. And I would say 90% most likely don't know the difference. If you try to explain that the internals are basically flip-flopped, you get a glazed over distant look back at you. Amazon clicks fix everything for everyone now. It's cheaper to replace than fix. Sorry about the rant
Yeah, you should be sorry.It's ridiculous to expect these men to know things that they were never talked. They also weren't the ones who designed products to be easier to replace than to fix. If you want to be mad about something that's fine. Just understand that people that you are mad At are the product of decades of bad decision-making and poor choices, not the cause.
@@madmanwithaplan1826 The sorry part is that people don't have the drive or will to learn anything other than exactly what they are taught, or what is right in front of them. We are not talking ancient tech. This is tech that will still be around for a long time until it is phased out. My point is that there is a gap that nobody seems to care about. I believe you misunderstood my point. My point is that there is NO drive to work with your hands anymore. And if you are giving an excuse to these people, saying if they weren't taught, they shouldn't know.... YOU are part of the problem. Have you NEVER taught yourself something???? Someone showed you how to do everything? That's sad because even toddlers teach themselves stuff everyday.
Wait ur first half and second half don’t line up to me
Video Idea: build a whole project with 1 star tools.
video idea learn what a star and square bits are called as fake trades people are easily found and made fun of as 61.2k are non trades and bot accounts
That would be a great challenge.
Yeah but one star could mean unsafe...
@@sinmethodical1837build a house for the homeless, cant be worse than what they have already?
@@sinmethodical1837that's why it's fun (for us)
"Am i going to give it more than 1 star? No. I'd probably give it like two, two and a half stars." Bruh, what? 😂
Remember, switching to your 8 volt is faster than recharging...
💀💀💀
This joke stopped being funny in 2007
@@Dctctx it's not a joke, it's a fact
FYI - Most cheap devices with battery level indicators that are just a few LEDs and not a digital readout. Don't change till below about 50%. Because they use old NiMh battery level indicators that are purely based on voltage. So if equipped with a Li-Po battery the level will be way off.
I feel like the pink drill is good enough budget thing for the little projects drilling into drywall. With all that it comes with for 30 bucks it'll get the picture hung
Mine stopped working less then a month
@@SPLBeastyeah that’s the only test he can’t really do, longevity but hard thing to test without putting in ages using a piece of shit
Compare it to the Harbor Fright 12V drill/driver that's 40% less expensive.
you can buy some store brand for that money and it will be a lot better and with warranty
The WEN tracks doesn't go back because it as an anti-kickback safety feature, and it doesn't cut right on the track because you are supposed to cut the gasket on the track the first use to prevent chipping, I think all that's covered in the manual. I've had mine for over a year and use it only at 90 degrees with absolutely no issues, I got a Milwaukee one when it came out for use outside the shop
For the tracksaw, shouldn't you install a new 0 clearance sacrificial rubbert band ? So that the saw would cut it and be accurate.
And fucking hell, the people complaining about a 35$ router coming without bits are crazy. It's like they really want something so cheap that it will actually explode in their face.
Especially considering $300 routers don't even come with bits, either.
If I had to guess I’d assume that every image in the store page had bits in the tool so people assumed
And frankly, 35$ power tool could be at least handy, but free bits and drils for it? 95% for being a total garbage
I don't think you'd even be able to get a set of bits for $35! Crazy expectations
Hell, I bought a starter set of Ryobi bits on sale for $40 that were a way better use of money than that router.
6:37 There is a reason why tracksaw tracks come with oversized rubber lids. They cut down to the perfect measurement during the first cut. You should be happy it didn’t shorten the lid on your track ;)
Also the resistance to going back at you isn’t a bug it’s a feature
I'm not wood worker and don't even own tracksaw. Yet I was still wondering how clearance happened to be correct. That's actually quite good if they copied dimensions from Festo.
You are right.
@@owenblount7334 Yeah, you aren't supposed to be going backward with that saw. Trying to ding a product over a blatantly obvious safety feature just taints the validity of everything else coming out of his mouth.
I know nothing about tools. But this was on my feed and I’m entertained lol
I'm not sure where you saw the 1-star review for the tracksaw--maybe a third-party seller? The sold-by-Amazon listing for the saw gets 4.3 stars from over 1,000 reviews. That rating is also pretty consistent for the listings for packages deals (with tracks etc).
I have a Wen drill press and a 1" belt sander and I've been very happy with them. They're no Festool, but you can practically fill your shop with Wen for the price of a Festool track saw.
The mindset of a unskilled laborer
@@bensbikex510 actually it's the mindset of a hobbyist who doesn't seek to make a living from his tools and doesn't require the precision of higher-end tools. But please, go on degrading people on the internet to make you feel better about yourself. 🙂
@@AxelXeron in my own garage i have mostly cheaper tools because it does the job and works fine for the work I do on my cars etc, I have a cheap mig welder and it works good, only bad with that is that it is a gasless welder😅 but when on work I want to have more quality tools😅
@@bensbikex510elitist arshole lol
A piece of advice I remember from Adam Savage (mythbusters). The first time you buy a tool, buy it cheap.
If you end up rarely using it, it might last for years and you saved money. If you use it enough that it breaks or enough that you figure out what additional features you might use, then you at least have a better understanding of what you want from a new one and can invest in an appropriate price/quality one for your needs, and just consider the first one was research.
⚠️ The fact that you can smell the brushes at the beginning is because they are first grinding in and I recommend letting the devices run for 5 minutes without load to have full power.
Very true. Though I've bought some quality tools that have had been likely ran in at factory. So it's not always not the case, but indeed common. Also I've noticed that almost all powertools smell bit shortly after first start. Likely factory grease, winding lacquer etc. on even high quality tools that gets warm first time.
I own the track saw and it works well. As other's have said, the zero clearance strip needs to be mated to each saw. It needs replaced when switching saws. The cam that prevents the saw from moving backwards is supposed to keep it from kicking back. I found it annoying and took it out. It comes off with 1 Phillips screw. Overall, it works great for straight cuts. I have not tried the miter yet.
great idea! im removing that cam now
I got stupid and bought one of those kreg kits from HD and I am taking it back I think this week and going to buy the wen set and track. I do not need a track saw that much yet I would like to have it on hand when I do need it.
here I am using a cheap circular saw against a clamped 8' level to do my straight cuts, I think track saws in general are overpriced unless you're building furniture.
@@Zenkai76The problem with the level and clamps, you have to know exactly what your saw widith is. Plus the clamp and level offer no stability for the start or end of the cut. The track offers something that a level and clamps just can not.
Be careful how you store those incredibly cheap and unreliable lithium batteries from purchases made for videos like these. My neighbor had his house burn down from a faulty lithium battery, and it was not from a company as sketchy as that drill and sander. I bought a fireproof bag made for charging lithium batteries and store all of mine in it now!
That bag is not going to survive the incendiary device you've made my storing all the batteries together lol
@@kermitthefragg You can do research online and see evidence that they suppress flames from many batteries being stored in the same bag. One faulty battery is guaranteed to light a wood shop on fire unless it's in a fire safe bag. Everyone keeps their batteries together the same shelf anyway, so worst case I wasted a few dollars and my house still burned down.
Actually the research I did here on YT shows those bags doing fart-all to stop flames from even 1 lithium battery.
Check out the videos. I'm not saying this to be an ass, I'm trying to show you're playing with fire thinking those bags are safe. They're not.
@@kermitthefraggthose bags don't even contain 1 lithium battery fire. The only way to stop a lithium fire is to starve it from oxygen.
Even the fire department can't do anything. That's why you see EV manufacturers have had whole areas of their storage plants burn up, and the FD has to just sit there and hope it won't spread.
I just disable my old batteries by poking them with a screwdriver until they’re safe and empty
I’ve never seen your content, but I don’t think you know how to use some of these tools properly. Like the track saw, you’re supposed to use a zero clearance rubber strip. Of course if you put a new saw on a track it won’t line up perfectly. It’s also a good idea to get a better blade. I have this same track saw and have used it for cutting walnut for glue-up to make tables and it was perfectly fine for that. Can’t beat the price for no seam glue ups using a thin kerf blade. You’re right about the miter, though. I will get a nicer one later but this is fine for my intermediate use.
dude never disrespect mr Maleki
@@edrichrohrbeck3198 Malecki honestly sounds like a hobbyist that is little more than a novice.
He put a track saw on a previously used track and then acted surprise that the guard didn't line up to the new saw. There is a reason why tracks come with oversized guards, you cut the guard to size with the first cut on the track. He also complained that the saw doesn't want to go backwards on the track. That is a FEATURE designed to prevent the saw from kicking back as much.
7:04 that makita you just had also came with... "Magnets" ( 😂 ) for the brushed motor.
his impact wrench came with a “lug extender” too 😂 appears woodworking is this guys specialty, not mechanics
When it comes to the tracksaw, you don't have to buy a festool track, a lot of cheaper brands of tracks are compatible. Spending more on the track than the saw would be ridiculous, unless you're already saving up for a better tracksaw and just need something to tide you over.
Wen sells 110" of track for $65. And it's solid too
@@SpartanORGNthats what i use. with their clamps. whole kit was $310cdn. (240us?). the clamps have some issues, but they work if you are gently with them
That's what I use with my Milwaukee track saw!@@SpartanORGN
I have the Makita track saw. Not cheap either, but still half of the Festool. I used it to rip 52 mm (2 in) thick and 3 m (10 ft) long oak slabs. It struggled a bit and got pretty hot, but got the job done. Granted, it probably would have been smarter to make several passes, but I was lazy because it was a lot of slabs to rip down.
@@christiannorf1680im pretty sure the makita has been rated really well. Your saw blade will make a big difference. Too many teeth on a thick board will make it hard to cut.
Only a 14 second introduction? You are my new favorite TH-camr!
Just recently bought a WEN belt sander and bandsaw (and a foot pedal). Happy to see a lot of other people in the comments having good experiences with them, I was a little worried about going too cheap.
First time viewer, "We only have stars and squares here" made my day. I build a lot of stuff using 2 and 3mm hardware and go far out of my way to get them in hex or torx, it has made life so much easier. I'll admit, it took a lot of trial and error to find a T6 bit that wouldn't strip itself. Wera won that battle.
I've had the Wen track saw for 4 years and to be honest I've been really happy with it (after changing the blade)
I agree. That "Drill" is a screwdriver. And as I was thinking "Ikea special" you said the same. And a refurb Mikita router is what, $115? Tear that nailer apart. I bet there are some weight blocks in it to make it feel heavy.
I bought the bigger Wen track saw last year for cutting sheet material and it's fantastic for that. I've cut dozens of sheets of of plywood and PVC. The bigger saw doesn't have the anti kickback lock either, so you can pull it backwards on the track. I think the saw and 8' Powertek tracks were about $260
ya i was surprised by the saw cutting a 90* cut, i just don't like that anti kick
@@JohnMaleckiUnscrewedyou can easily, with 1 screw, remove the anti kickback.
I have two Festool track saws that are used almost every day.
I bought the Wen to cut concrete board etc. to save my expensive saws.
The Wen saw is still going, and accurate after heavy use.
@@muddywater6856thanks, I might go grab one now.
There are plenty of those Makita copy routers available. The base is interchangeable with a Makita base. I have had a Makita copy router for years. And it works very well. So not all of them are bad.
That drill looks like it's literally just supposed to do extremely basic stuff around the house, like you said, but be cute for girl. I bought the cheapest drill at Harbor Freight for the same price just to be used around the house. I ended up using it on my deck because I got tired of swapping bits back and forth in my good drill and I was surprised by how it performed
Girls Got good taste in tools ;) I Got mostly milwaukee, a few Makita tools and a dewalt router
I think most women have got better taste
I have one of those little "drill" screwdrivers!
I don't do any really hard work with it, but the reason I bought it was because I was moving into my brand new apartment had to do things like hang things on the walls and assemble a lot of new furniture. It ended up being a great deal with the accessories and stuff, since I haven't been able to get my actual tools out of storage yet. The quality is pretty good if you just need something for occasional household use.
The fact it can charge off a USB and not need its own dedicated barrel plug you can lose is fantastic.
Yeah, there's probably nothing wrong with it. Cheap basic drill screwdriver
Just a heads up. The motor brushes that conduct electricity from the stator to the armature are made of graghite/carbon and sometimes made of copper(but not usually for ac power).
Cheers!
The green LED staying on when the charger is unplugged is because there's a capacitor inside it that stores a little bit of power to smooth out the AC waveform coming in from the wall. Wait a little bit and it will run out of power and the LED will go out.
It is also possible that the circuitry is incorrect and the charger is drawing amperage from the battery.
Yeah it's surprising how little power you need to keep an led going, last year we had a power cut for a few days and the standby led on my TV took over 2 days to go off.
@@AxGryndr You have a point there. I wouldn't call it incorrect though. Just designed that way. I have many chargers, most will light up when connected to the battery. This includes Ingco and B&D chargers as well as standalone chargers for single Li-ion batteries.
Since the charger hadn't been connected to AC yet when he plugged it into the battery on-camera. Unless it was unpackaged, connected, disconnected, and then repackaged off-camera, for some reason, I don't think it could've had anything to do with a smoothing capacitor.
Doesn't this indicate the circuitry is lacking a dedicated diode to prevent reverse flow from battery to charger? Almost like they're using the LED as a stand-in for that task.
While the D in LED does indeed stand for diode, this seems like a planned obsolescence point-of-failure to me.
However, admitting that this sort of corner-cutting took place, means the smoothing capacitor theory isn't so far-fetched. For all we know, there's no separation between low voltage and mains, and that LED is acting as a half-bridge rectifier... 🫣🤡
Sounds like something BigClivedotcom would love to teardown on his stream.
@@NightsReign Watch again: he plugged the charger in to the AC outlet first, then connected the battery.
The reviews people leave on amazon are always some interesting stories
I have the higher-power of the two Wen track saws. For the price, it works OK. The not-going-backwards is an anti-kickback feature; there's a knob you have to twist to go backwards. If you want to take your life into your own hands you can remove the entire mechanism. Accuracy depends on the track, make sure your zero-clearance edge is really up against the blade. At least on my version, when you lock down the mitre angle there's no flex.
Great video John, as always. I have the Wen track saw and it works very well for me, and I purchased the Wen tracks as I did not have a track saw. One thing you mentioned tinned that it cut away from the edge a little, so what that is, your Festool cuts the splinter strip at one place where the Wen would cut in a different place. All in all, you provide great videos with these tools. Love the channel
12:35 I have an older Makita that came with the same bearing mount. It goes directly in line with the bit and basically it is so you can use bits that do not have a bearing on them, but with this bearing instead to follow edges, contours, etc
I actually have a Kimo cordless ratchet and use it all the time. Works great.
I learned my lesson about wearing gloves while working with wood. Was pre-drilling some holes on a picture frame I was making at home for a wood working project in high school on a drill press (didn't have a working hand drill). Needless to say, my finger isn't straight anymore lol.
As a weekend warrior, get yourself a set of Skil tools! Even the 12 V is already powerfull.
That level out of the drill kit is gonna serve you longer and better than the drill it came with.
John, loved the video of the best!
Great showing comparison of name brand and off brand tools so we know difference.
This needs a part 2 and a series ASAP, you should have held the camera on top of the nail gun to show the recoil, also some temperature readings on the motors after usage would help cause good equality tools can do a lot of work before they burn out
that router looks almost exactly like my chap ass harbor freight router down to the wingnut guide and everything.
I have a harbor freight router too, I can’t see it being good for much at all! At work I’ll occasionally use our Festool router that can be used with the track. It works like a dream.
The WEN tracksaw doesn't go backwards because one of the cams on the track is an *anti-kickback* feature. I mean, you could defeat or remove it, but why? Without a riving knife, that is awesome safety-money value if your workpiece has internal stress. The limitations of this thing have been seriously frustrating to work with as a contractor, but for the odd flooring transition or one-off site built cabinet, it's been a lifesaver. Put a better Makita blade into it, and it gets even better. A longer cord, better still.
Moreover, it let us gain capability while spending better money on tools we use daily.
Those plunge saws are available in Europe under another name, might be Schepach or Titan ... I have one. The anti-kickback device stopped the saw being ablew to move smoothly forwards and de the saw really hard to push ... I removed it and it's much better.
My wife picked up a Wen belt sander for some big projects I had to get done outside. I’d never had or used a Wen before, but that thing impressed the hell out of me. I used it for several hours over a few weekends and it never bogged or smoked and, more importantly, never slipped a belt. Most of my other carpentry and woodworking tools are DeWalt and I’m not about to change, but this sander held its own quite well at a very reasonable price. I’ve also heard good things from a friend about the Wen bench planer.
I got the same palm router, I got it for 20 bucks from Ebay/China, mine has speed adjust, tho. I broke it in slowly, I ran it without load and maybe 500 rpm for 30mins so the brushes find their spot.
I then had quite nice fun with it, it does the job but one has to be veeery careful, take very light cuts, don´t run it full blast.
It holds up for three years, now- I´m happy with it.
You just have to know the limit of tool you are using, people expect cheap tools to work like 10 times more expenisive one, even cheap tools can serve you good if you use a brain more and brute force less.
Kindalike my opinion. I knew it was cheap, I wanted to test it, pleasant surprise.
The little China dingus has potential to me.
If I was to use it in a jointery it would be a nose dive. But for my hobby it´s okay@@Dagoth666Ur
I´m very much onboard.
Little story: Few years ago a Dude and me (basically just me) tried cutting a car in half with just a tiny angle grinder- it was such a chore, took me four hours just for a darn two side panels.
WAY more noise than work, we needed brute force for that.
Next day Dude went and borrowed a real man´s tool, a big, powerful 1500 watts grinder.
We were done in two hours.
That was one of the few occasions brute force was needed and my flimsy bugger tooling just couldn´t cope.
But for occasional, light woodwork this is okay.
@@Dagoth666Ur
3:45 My black+decker matrix was 50$ and its impact attachment buries screws fine. Impact attachment was 18$. The drill attachment it comes with is 800 rpm and buries screws too. It's not great but for 50$ has way more capacity than that. Just what I use it for. Making cabinets, DIY bs etc. I got Ingerrsoll Rand, Snapon, Dewalt, Makita and B&D Firestorm 28v for the real work.
As always... more fun than informative, unless you consider that you definitively proved why you should never cheap out on tools or set expectations too high (as in expect it to work) when you buy off brands from Amazon. Great Sunday morning video to start the day with coffee and a smile. Thanks
Later that afternoon, the Kemo's revenge was played out when they pulled out of the parking lot and lost lugs.😂😂😂
Just kidding.
I bought a WEN rotary tool with case, extension , & a bunch of bits & a couple collets for $19 on Amazon.
It's held up like a champ with regular use over a couple years now, & I'm totally blown away by the quality for the price! The rotation is nice & tight, too, i don't notice any runout.
On the palm router or any tool in general if you have a brushed motor then the brushes rubbing on the stator of the motor will generate sparks as you make it work hard but since your palm router is brand new the brushes don't have the wear that an old highly used brushed motors brush will have.
I have a brushed 3 to 4-year-old Corded hand drill and I see a lot of sparks flying out of it when I push it hard while using it throws a lot of heat out as well but most hand drills do but if they are decently maintained they don't have much issue's to deal with except cleaning out the brushes and the stator that runs between them and clear out the Brushes dust that gets collected on the stator which if enough of it is clogged/caked up on the stator then will stop the drill from
working and powering on at all.
The sparks you see flying out of the brushed motor are the brushes rubbing on the stator(More common on Old Brushed motor tools which likely have the factory brushes still installed and unchanged) and getting overcharged and heated with electricity when in use and are rubbing and flying out of the tool housing breathing holes
for the stator and the brushes.
How do I know about brushes clogging the stator when overusing it i dealt with this issue on my own hand drill but after clearing up the stator and the brushes it started up and was working good as new.
“I’m very much not used to using brushed tools these days” was such a sad and strange flex
Not really a flex, it's just what the good tools are these days.
@@ajs96350I mean, I use both. The old power tools from Dad and my grandfather still work fine, plus heaps of old tools I got at auctions growing up. I've only had to replace a few brushes on my own tools my entire life. Why replace them (the tools, I mean) if they're working great? Many of my newer tools are brushless, but the only difference I notice is that the motors are slightly smaller and lighter.
Downright weird. I've bought bunch of quality tools with brushes. It's downright idiotic to say brushed tool = bad tool.
@@ajs96350depends what you consider good.
Since I use my tools purely around the house I want something cheap an reliable. Corded brushed tools are the way to go. Buying budget cordless tools just for a little occasional around the house job isnt the best idea
As a mechanic the proper lug nut torque for a Ranger is 100 FtIbs and a F-150 is 150 FtIbs if they are properly torqued to spec. For future video reference
Youuuuuuu don't need to worry aboot correct torque settings. Just run er down full steam with a big Milwaukeenee
@@HotForgeChaos Milwaukee... because MoAr ToRqUe = Quality 😂😂😂😂
@@HotForgeChaosYou are looking to piss off whoever has to change a flat out on the road using the OEM tire iron.
@@bobturnbull18 Lol, probably. But I did watch one of the mechanics I worked with do that to an Evo 7, and he fuckin gave her all the way with it too
@@HotForgeChaos Some people do just give it a few ugga-duggas with an air wrench, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea.
I stopped going to a quickie-lube place after I changed my own oil once. They'd hammered in the drain plug so hard it damaged the threads. On the plus side, they saved using a gasket and it worked great until the next person had to work on it.
me and my brother bought my dad one of those drills like 15 years ago when we were 6 and 8 and had practically no money and it literally didn't work out of the box
I've got a router very similar to the one used here and about the same price. I love it for rounding over edges and it works fine with bits that have a guide bearing on it. I've never used it for more meaty cuts, for which I have a bigger router, but I find it comfortable and good for the amount I paid. It has the base almost identical to the Makita one and a button to hold the shaft so you only need a single wrench.
Build 2 identical projects, something detailed and precise. build one with 1 star tools and the other with your good tools and compare
Several years ago I bought a Dako stick welder for a small project and have used it often with rather decent results. It's only a 110v but it works great for small jobs and if I remember correctly it was under $100
Always enjoy watching your reviews. This one was great! Thank you!
Ive had the wen track saw on a makita track for 3 years now, still working great.
7:12 'You can see here it started waver, jump and come back' No, no we can't see that.
So, that cordless nailer reminds me of when those first came out. I had seen someone using one and it was just that slow. Newer ones are much faster, but air is the way to go now for absolute reliability of those
You need to wiggle or twist the impact when trying to remove the lugs. That little pink drill is really only for an apartment dweller hanging blinds or pictures and maybe for RTA furniture. Great tool tests.
I've made some good cuts with that track saw. It's good for those of us that can't afford a 32,000 square foot shop and all the best tools. It's definitely 4 stars.
A lot of cheaper tools are fine if you don't use them day in day out. I had a parkside track saw for a long time before I bought the DeWalt. It was absolutely fine but with the brushed motor and cheap construction it wouldn't be long before it burnt itself out.
@@UnjustifiedRecsyeah but what are simple tools other than a motor and an interface? You always change the blade, and using the festool track, you’re basically getting a very simple unit that should be able to do it’s job regularly. You do lose on tolerance, repairability, and probably customer service.
But I still bet it’s better than some Ryobi tools. The issue is complexity. Once they start getting complex, cutting corners starts working against you.
As far as most tools go, I have an old tool bias. Like for a router, I just bought a new boxed SEARS router and called it done.
It doesn't have any of the fancy variable speed triggers or anything, but it doesn't quit and gets the job done. Which is good, I had heavy work for it. I carved about a 1/2"x 36"x 14" rectangle out of four sides of two separate 2x10s. And never changed or sharpened the bit. One pass.
I thought that was pretty impressive, but I might be wrong.
Track saw looks to perform quite well. I own several WEN tools (thickness planer, mini lathe and dust extractor to list a few) and I'm quite happy with them. Works perfectly for a hobbyist like myself whose day job doesn't allow for a Festool budget. The funny thing is that tool reviews on Amazon, and especially those for products aimed at hobbyists and people on a budget are often not the fault of the tool, but rather the inexperience of the people buying them. Some of that is expecting too much out of the tools, and some of it is not knowing how to even use them to begin with. Guess what I'm getting at is always consider the source and complaint when relying on reviews before purchasing.
My first tracksaw was the Wen, like many other people, I removed the kickback feature which then allowed the saw to be pulled back without an issue. I've since upgraded to the Milwaukee since I wanted the portability but the Wen worked fine while I had it.
I have a WEN dremel tool. Honestly the best hand dremel I have ever owned EXPECT the extension chuck thing for hand held use fell apart out of the box. Both times. I bpught a second to replace the one my uncle stole. But its been years and both still work great.
9:45 I have same router both of them actually. Tried to flush trim a 1/2" plywood with the Batoca (that's the brand name). It nearly burn the motor. Had to finish the job with the Makita Rt0700c. Not the 700 watts motor it rated on the motor. Feels like a 550 watts motor.
I was looking for an average tracksaw since my focus was a good tablesaw. I was attracted to the WEN because I seen online vloggers rating that WEN at 4 to 5 stars. So i bought the Wen with tracks kit for $170.
Everyone complained about that angle adjustment on it, I can't get mine to jiggle that much as you or the other videos on the WEN saw. Then I was looking at the dates 1.5 1 yr 6 months ago- maybe the one I bought was updated?
So doing my 45s on ply and 2x4s it's flawless. Wrong blade for ply but good for thicker wood, framing live edge type woods. Havnt tried hardwoods like oak.
But yes as the guy below me said, you need that rubber edge on the guide to show accuracy.
I so far give that a 4.5 out of 5 stars.
I have a hyper tough drill from Walmart that I bought 5yrs ago for $18 and it still works. I used it almost everyday for 3yrs and off and on the last 2. I have Bauer, hart, and craftsman drills now. The Hart is probably my favorite but thay
For all of those battery tools, it might be worthwhile to note whether the connection is proprietary or whether a name brand battery (e.g., Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, etc,) will fit.
Yeah. Makita's battery fit for Deko tools and they work better. Not very much but still 🙃
I've had the Wen 6.5in track saw(a corded Makita copy btw) for 4+ years while waiting for Milwaukee to get their crap together and release theirs. Never done a miter cut with it but honestly it has never failed me and I'd totally recommend it. It needs a better blade and I waxed the bottom plate. The only going forward is an anti kickback feature that can easily be removed if you'd like.
The little accessory for the router that you couldn't identify is for cutting rebates on the edge of a board using straight cutting bits. I use one just like it on my Ryobi cordless for binding rebates on guitars.
Got an old hitachi palm router at work with the same style accessory, pretty handy if you don't have a fitting copying bit at hand
23:49 am I the only one who died when he called an extension "a lug extender" 🤣🤣🤣
I didn't even realize this wasn't the main channel! Subbed up on both now.
I love videos like this. Great work.
Cut to 7 days later where "Joe who doesn't work with his hands" finds his front right wheel overtaking him on the road coz the nuts fell off
I have been doing roofs and deck for the last 30 years I bought the original Wen track saw (not the black model) and used it for the last 7 years replaced the brushes last year and bought new blades but other than that it still works and does the job no problem. I recently got the larger blade and motor on the WEN 7.25-Inch Track Saw for my Birthday from my family I wish it was cordless but it was free. That one has more power and cuts a little deeper cut But I am still using the old one as I leave my tools in my truck and figure I'll keep the new one in reserve until the old one dies.
The wen track saw is definitely 1 star!! Use it for a few jobs and I promise it breaks, I'm on my third and last wen track saw, when it breaks again I'm getting a different brand
I've done wood fracking I did a bunch of furniture. A bed a nice picnic table and several other things
the drill is funny because "deko" in german means "decorative" which is the only thing the drill does, being decorative
I got an older model belt sander from harbor freight for around $80 and it works very well and I’ve had no issues with it.
I've had that exact wen saw for 5 years and it's still working pretty damn fine. Not building cabinets with it but it does sheet goods pretty good
I have a blue version of the 8v drill, it charges great via usbc, and it works great for IT use.
The little router doodab is a guide for trimming laminate edge banding I believe. I got a few, but never used one.
it's an offset guide, used with a straight bit to cut rabbits or to trim laminate if you don't have a bearing bit, actually really useful.
I had that WEN track saw. It's really a good value. The first thing I did was get rid of that anti kick back. The miter is bad, but I rarely used it anyway
I needed a new dremel tool when my 15-20yr old one took a dump, not wanting to pay the full cost, I opted for Wens version.
Can’t recall the price but in the end it was much too much, since having to complete the rest of a project required buying another one. (Brand new, in the box, but had been in the garage for months awaiting opening to actually put into play) 15-20 minutes of steady running the Wen went tits up.
Requiring I replace the railed cheap one, with its twin, or getting the real thing.
Because I had had the cheapo for longer than I felt I could make the argument for warranty replacement, it became landfill, while my Dremel nearly doubled in price in the penny pinching mentality model of tool purchases.
Not thinking of or when I’ll ever get another Wen.
The track needed a new tape on for a fair accuracy test, no saw cuts the same, I've got 3 festool saws and they all sit differently on the rails
Got one of those daka dakas makita clone. Box advert said one value, machine a another and manual a third. Full battery highest setting it can change tires but i always just get breaker bar to loosen the bolts then use that to run them in and out. Beats using compressor with hose and hazzle it takes. Then again you need air to fill the tires so for just tire change nah, but running bunch of bolts that are loosened or not that tight its fine and you should anyway use torque wrench when tightening the lug nuts anyway.
i have a lot of tools from festool or hilti down to porter cable. Wen is legit a good value. Does exactly what it should and holds up tp regular use.
I have the wen track saw you showed and I have zero issues with it. I don't understand y it's a 1 star. No brush smells. Used it many times to break down sheet goods lay subfloor. Love it. U can get caps for the side but I don't give a crap about the dust. That may change someday. I just wear a mask
Once you let the factory smoke out it’s all over. Cheap is expensive, expensive is cheap!
I bought the brushed set of Milwaukee combo kit on Christmas just to use and beat up. My Milwaukee sander and 2.0 battery does this. It charges in a hour or 45, but only runs for like 20 minutes max
I was happy to see the tracksaw do so good. I was looking at them but very hesitant. I honestly have a need for one, maybe a handful of times a year and can't justify spending $300 for a top of the line.
The Wen track saws way better with their fine cut tracksaw blade and def needs some fiddling with the setting to reduce the amount of play in the track. Love that I can upgrade to the cordless Makita at some point in the future without having to buy new tracks.
I have sparks and flames come out of three drills, one circ saw and a small grinder. These light tools a4e fine for hanging pictures or light 2 x 4 cuts but if you are a woodworker, more robust tools are required.
Funny brand name for the first drill thingy. "DEKO" is short for "Dekoration" in German, which just means decorations in English. When something is absolutely worthless we use to say "Das taugt nur als Deko" ( It's just able to serve as decorations.)
I got the Wen tracksaw and it was 1 star for me because the mechanism that unlocks the plunge mechanism would lock and not work 9/10 times. I couldn't even use the tool because it was just stuck locked in the upward position. Easiest upgrade of my life to just get a Festool instead.
I bought a black and decker 8v drill a few years ago. The micro USB charger is handy but I know it will drill through a steel fire rated door frame.
For the Track saw, You should use the track that was made specifically for that saw. You were using a track made for A festool saw. You may have had less play in the cutting if you used the WEN track.
I've had my Kimo impact for about 4 years used it on a ton of car/ truck projects and its still going, just need to toss the terrible sockets it comes with and get nice propper impact sockets.
i use Dewalt for all of my main drills and impacts but i do have a black and decker about the same size just for putting Ikea furniture together. of course the last time i put a desk together i did use my Dewalt drill and just dialed it back until the screws hit the wood and then triggered the stop on the drill before it could strip out
Yet another masterpiece! Next time don’t stop until something is on fire.
hahahahah