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Good to see power re-connected, thanks for the update, always entertaining and informative, friend of mine had polyester tanks made to measure, really tough construction with sender units on them, obviously not cheap, but what is cheap in this day and age! Good luck to the pair of you and looking forward to further updates! 😊
Thanks for another entertaining episode! 😊 Just make sure to check oil and fuel for water or contamination before you try to turn over the engines or the generator
Hi Shaun, I found this as I have a boat and I guess TH-cam put it in my feed as a suggested channel. I'm a member at RAF Waddington ARC, we last spoke on the radio probably 4 or 5 years ago just as you were starting the truck build. Good to see you are keeping well. My boat is fibreglass, your build is a huge challenge and I think you must be a little crazy lol... but I wish you all the best and will be following along to at least add moral support.
Hi Richard - nice to hear from you. Installing my dusty radio gear into the boat is going to feature in the near future so you may be interested from 2 angles. 😀. You'll have to tell me all about your boat next time we connect on the airwaves.
@@SavingBlueSteel Yes, I will be watching your progress closely. I'm on my boat now changing the old analog radar for a new digital unit, I'm cussing and swearing, one snapped stainless screw and some broken plastic later. I'm sure you're familiar with the experience.
Also when you put your new tanks in you want to plum them in and not use hoses in the reason for that is it'll keep black water smells from permanent into the cabin In the way you get away with it is use flexy joints. Have a great day
Enjoying your videos...keep plugging away, and do check out those flexible marine tanks... far easier to install when compared with rigid plastic ones, and as I;ve mentioned, I've two that are twenty-eight years old.
Thank you. Yes, we're going to look into flexible tanks too when we get closer to refitting them. We've bought a temporary bladder tank for now, you'll see this is a near future video. Thanks for the kind words.
Don't forget to make a note of how many inlet and offtakes there are on the removed tanks and their position. Gloves would be good for those edges, and it's a dirty water tank. Stay safe, keep up the good work.
Thanks for your thoughts. My understanding is this shouldn't be necessary as is an intrinsic part of D/C to D/C conversion. I do wonder if another circuit has been removed. We'll likely get into this deeper as we explore the electrics more fully.
Sailing Melody had a friend in Wales, Cardiff way make a Stainless tank for them. We build a Narrowboat with plastic tanks which is ok….just hate blackwater tank fittings and would do that different next time
I was wondering , when will you start removing all the Interior, as old plating needs to be cut out, and replaced , then the horrible dirty job of Sand Blasting. I wish to point out that your focused on functions of the boat. Am I wrong? I would have thought that number 1 after purchase would surveying the hull, then checking the engines, then complete removal of all the internal wooden cabin interior down to the floors giving a bare hull with either engines in or engines out, then the plasma cutting out of all rusted out plating then cutting and welding all new plate in including the decks, then blasting then primer coat inside and out then rebuilding the inside of the boat. Your boat has a lot of rust and right through the hull. Wish u the best of course :
The hull is already sand blasted, and we cannot survey it thoroughly until we have accessed as much as we can from the inside. Removing all the cabinetry is not going to be necessary as the areas we cannot access from the inside will be accessed from the outside. The cabinetry is too good to remove except for where is absolutely necessary. Where the structure is rusty its very rusty, but where it's not rusty it's surprisingly good. Thanks for the best wishes.
@@SavingBlueSteel thank you for your reply , you will have to sandblast the hull again, since when a steel hull is sandblasted you have four hrs to get the primer coat on, as if you fail to prime it it will start rusting again. The inside has to blasted again as well as the outside then coated right away. If you don’t blast it just before a primer coat, it will start rusting again very quickly. This is why I indicated that the hull must be stripped of its interior. Repair with out sandblasting is useless. Plus the amount of rust you boat has everywhere requires massive removal Of a lot of rusticals . If you repair the hull in and out with replaced plating here and there and you paint the boat and throw it into the salt chuck it will rust through in six months. I had a 31 ft steel sailboat. The owner sandblasted the inside and primed it with an epoxy primer coat but the outside had not been blasted. I epoxied the outside and after that it went into the water at anchor for 8 months I also used big zinks the hull was brand new I had through hull rust in the six months and had planned to pull out of the salt water anchorage for repair and blasting of the outside. Do you have experience in steel boat building ? If not get some books. To save the boat and not waist money for nothing you will have to rip out the inside and then with a bare hull remove all rust on good steel, replace plating and then sandblast inside and out then immediately primer coat this is 100 percent a must if not and repair it as you say, you have it rusting through with a year and paint will not stop this. If you vessel will be spending its life in freshwater then it’s not so bad but in salt no way a waist of money. I do not know what experience you have with steel boats, it’s clear to me your a professional welder but non marine application structural welding has little to do with marine steel boat building except the weldments or beads. I am simply trying to give you some good advice it’s your boat not mine I am also around your age or slightly older. Regarding replacement of plating and not having to remove the interior yes this can be done with a steel boat that has some slight rust usually in the case of steel boats starts in an area where oxygen has direct contact with steel the rest of the vessel is sound with no completely rusted through sections Or just simply surface rust that can be sanded down to bare metal and recoated with primer then painted , but stating this, your boat is a completely different situation where the above cannot apply. That why the original owner walked away. Plus here in Canada the cost of steel is going through the roof what was once a 5 by 10 ft piece of 10 gauge for 75.00$ is now 400.00$. You can of course simply cut out to good steel then replace with small patches of steel but in your case based upon what I have seen thus far you will be entertaining removal of all the interior then bringing the hull down to bare un rusted steel after all the patches below and above the water line have been replaced then blasting and primer coat with four hrs must be applied if not based on what I have seen with out being their to do a servey myself the whole this is a waist of time and money. If you do all this you will get 10 to 20 years out of a repaired hull before removing from the water for repainting and possible resending or spot sanding and re priming and painting. I don’t think I would take on such a project with out five or so people to assist also the time involved depending on how much time you have to work on it but your easily looking at 100.000$ doing all the work your self and it could take you till your 75 years of age depending on your experience and skill and money assets to put in to it. Be realistic , I have seen many couples buying their dream boat they found in a boat yard and most walk away once the reality sets in and work starts and they realize the amount of money and time, actually required. At this stage if it where me considering buying a boat like yours I would apt for a plywood sheeted hull plywood hulls are based upon steel designs they are both the same but it’s easier to replace a piece of plywood on a hull then a piece of steel and plywood is cheaper and does not rust. Anyway best of luck and thanks for keeping me updated I look forward to your next video: regards Daniel Ottawa Canada:
In the words of Winston keep buggering on , and keep up with delete and block of the sad lonely people 😊glad your ignoring great Chanel with some fun content 😊
Thank you, we appreciate the positive feedback. Grey water is waste water from showers and sinks. There's more on the grey water, black water system coming in a future video. 👍
Good evening. First issue I see is you are on your own. Safety would dictate another person be with or near you in case of emergency. After seeing the condition of your garage, it seems pointless to suggest you clean the boat before doing any work. I am not sure where you reside but the way of life must be far different from that which many are used to having. I am amazed that you don’t care what the world thinks of your lifestyle and the messy environment in which you choose to live. I would like to see you live long enough to complete your project but there is not enough experienced manpower with you when you have help to get anything done. Stay at it, have fun and be safe
FANCYING MORE? - You can find other ways to connect with us here:
linktr.ee/savingbluesteel
FEELING SORRY FOR US? - Please check out our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/gpnoted/curation/db30086d-3bc3-4abf-a2e4-b222150f28d3
Never Give Up. The Reward is Genuine Satisfaction.
We couldn't agree more.
Good to see power re-connected, thanks for the update, always entertaining and informative, friend of mine had polyester tanks made to measure, really tough construction with sender units on them, obviously not cheap, but what is cheap in this day and age! Good luck to the pair of you and looking forward to further updates! 😊
Thank you - we'll look into that. We've also been considering flexible bladder tanks too.
@@SavingBlueSteel yes they can work, probably an easier fitting wise
Thanks for another entertaining episode! 😊 Just make sure to check oil and fuel for water or contamination before you try to turn over the engines or the generator
Glad you enjoyed it, we like making them. We will thank you 👍
Hi Shaun, I found this as I have a boat and I guess TH-cam put it in my feed as a suggested channel. I'm a member at RAF Waddington ARC, we last spoke on the radio probably 4 or 5 years ago just as you were starting the truck build. Good to see you are keeping well. My boat is fibreglass, your build is a huge challenge and I think you must be a little crazy lol... but I wish you all the best and will be following along to at least add moral support.
Hi Richard - nice to hear from you. Installing my dusty radio gear into the boat is going to feature in the near future so you may be interested from 2 angles. 😀. You'll have to tell me all about your boat next time we connect on the airwaves.
@@SavingBlueSteel Yes, I will be watching your progress closely. I'm on my boat now changing the old analog radar for a new digital unit, I'm cussing and swearing, one snapped stainless screw and some broken plastic later. I'm sure you're familiar with the experience.
Well done with the electrics 😊😊
Thank you! 🙏
Stay positive and keep going 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you 🙏
lots of progress this week, glad you got the angry pixies fixed and set them free to walk around the wires as they like to do 😂😂
As long as they stay where they're supposed to be 😀
You are doing great. !!
Thank you
Also when you put your new tanks in you want to plum them in and not use hoses in the reason for that is it'll keep black water smells from permanent into the cabin In the way you get away with it is use flexy joints. Have a great day
Thank you for the advice 👍
Enjoying your videos...keep plugging away, and do check out those flexible marine tanks... far easier to install when compared with rigid plastic ones, and as I;ve mentioned, I've two that are twenty-eight years old.
Thank you. Yes, we're going to look into flexible tanks too when we get closer to refitting them. We've bought a temporary bladder tank for now, you'll see this is a near future video. Thanks for the kind words.
Don't forget to make a note of how many inlet and offtakes there are on the removed tanks and their position. Gloves would be good for those edges, and it's a dirty water tank.
Stay safe, keep up the good work.
Thank you for the kind words and the welcome tips.
👍
The isolator might be used to prevent back feeding the dc-dc.
Thanks for your thoughts. My understanding is this shouldn't be necessary as is an intrinsic part of D/C to D/C conversion. I do wonder if another circuit has been removed. We'll likely get into this deeper as we explore the electrics more fully.
Sailing Melody had a friend in Wales, Cardiff way make a Stainless tank for them. We build a Narrowboat with plastic tanks which is ok….just hate blackwater tank fittings and would do that different next time
Thanks for the tip. What didn't you like, and what would you do differently?
I was wondering , when will you start removing all the Interior, as old plating needs to be cut out, and replaced , then the horrible dirty job of Sand Blasting. I wish to point out that your focused on functions of the boat. Am I wrong? I would have thought that number 1 after purchase would surveying the hull, then checking the engines, then complete removal of all the internal wooden cabin interior down to the floors giving a bare hull with either engines in or engines out, then the plasma cutting out of all rusted out plating then cutting and welding all new plate in including the decks, then blasting then primer coat inside and out then rebuilding the inside of the boat. Your boat has a lot of rust and right through the hull. Wish u the best of course :
The hull is already sand blasted, and we cannot survey it thoroughly until we have accessed as much as we can from the inside. Removing all the cabinetry is not going to be necessary as the areas we cannot access from the inside will be accessed from the outside. The cabinetry is too good to remove except for where is absolutely necessary. Where the structure is rusty its very rusty, but where it's not rusty it's surprisingly good. Thanks for the best wishes.
@@SavingBlueSteel thank you for your reply , you will have to sandblast the hull again, since when a steel hull is sandblasted you have four hrs to get the primer coat on, as if you fail to prime it it will start rusting again. The inside has to blasted again as well as the outside then coated right away. If you don’t blast it just before a primer coat, it will start rusting again very quickly. This is why I indicated that the hull must be stripped of its interior. Repair with out sandblasting is useless. Plus the amount of rust you boat has everywhere requires massive removal
Of a lot of rusticals . If you repair the hull in and out with replaced plating here and there and you paint the boat and throw it into the salt chuck it will rust through in six months. I had a 31 ft steel sailboat. The owner sandblasted the inside and primed it with an epoxy primer coat but the outside had not been blasted. I epoxied the outside and after that it went into the water at anchor for 8 months I also used big zinks the hull was brand new I had through hull rust in the six months and had planned to pull out of the salt water anchorage for repair and blasting of the outside. Do you have experience in steel boat building ? If not get some books. To save the boat and not waist money for nothing you will have to rip out the inside and then with a bare hull remove all rust on good steel, replace plating and then sandblast inside and out then immediately primer coat this is 100 percent a must if not and repair it as you say, you have it rusting through with a year and paint will not stop this. If you vessel will be spending its life in freshwater then it’s not so bad but in salt no way a waist of money. I do not know what experience you have with steel boats, it’s clear to me your a professional welder but non marine application structural welding has little to do with marine steel boat building except the weldments or beads. I am simply trying to give you some good advice it’s your boat not mine I am also around your age or slightly older. Regarding replacement of plating and not having to remove the interior yes this can be done with a steel boat that has some slight rust usually in the case of steel boats starts in an area where oxygen has direct contact with steel the rest of the vessel is sound with no completely rusted through sections
Or just simply surface rust that can be sanded down to bare metal and recoated with primer then painted , but stating this, your boat is a completely different situation where the above cannot apply. That why the original owner walked away. Plus here in Canada the cost of steel is going through the roof what was once a 5 by 10 ft piece of 10 gauge for 75.00$ is now 400.00$. You can of course simply cut out to good steel then replace with small patches of steel but in your case based upon what I have seen thus far you will be entertaining removal of all the interior then bringing the hull down to bare un rusted steel after all the patches below and above the water line have been replaced then blasting and primer coat with four hrs must be applied if not based on what I have seen with out being their to do a servey myself the whole this is a waist of time and money. If you do all this you will get 10 to 20 years out of a repaired hull before removing from the water for repainting and possible resending or spot sanding and re priming and painting. I don’t think I would take on such a project with out five or so people to assist also the time involved depending on how much time you have to work on it but your easily looking at 100.000$ doing all the work your self and it could take you till your 75 years of age depending on your experience and skill and money assets to put in to it. Be realistic , I have seen many couples buying their dream boat they found in a boat yard and most walk away once the reality sets in and work starts and they realize the amount of money and time, actually required. At this stage if it where me considering buying a boat like yours I would apt for a plywood sheeted hull plywood hulls are based upon steel designs they are both the same but it’s easier to replace a piece of plywood on a hull then a piece of steel and plywood is cheaper and does not rust. Anyway best of luck and thanks for keeping me updated I look forward to your next video: regards Daniel Ottawa Canada:
In the words of Winston keep buggering on , and keep up with delete and block of the sad lonely people 😊glad your ignoring great Chanel with some fun content 😊
Thank you for the kind words, and thank you for watching 🙏
What is grey water? And great job so far.
Thank you, we appreciate the positive feedback. Grey water is waste water from showers and sinks. There's more on the grey water, black water system coming in a future video. 👍
i have sent you the link to the diagrams for the isolater in the coments of the last video, hope it helps
I Think YT zapped the link
@@SavingBlueSteel seems so......google for pictures segelladen Batteriesysteme
segelladen Batteriesysteme try to find the pictures with a search engine, youtube zapped the link
Nooo don’t put plastic tanks in… we’ve just taken out our plastic water tank and replaced with stainless steel.. far better .
Thanks for the advice - polyester is definitely going to be the easiest. We’re looking into bladder tanks too
Just because you don’t like a comment it does not mean it’s wrong,in fact it’s those comments you should listen to if you want to learn
We couldn't agree more, though it does depend on the nature of the comment.
Good evening. First issue I see is you are on your own. Safety would dictate another person be with or near you in case of emergency. After seeing the condition of your garage, it seems pointless to suggest you clean the boat before doing any work. I am not sure where you reside but the way of life must be far different from that which many are used to having. I am amazed that you don’t care what the world thinks of your lifestyle and the messy environment in which you choose to live. I would like to see you live long enough to complete your project but there is not enough experienced manpower with you when you have help to get anything done. Stay at it, have fun and be safe
Wow! That’s all I’ve got. 😳
Why sitting and talk into the cam 80% of the time ine the clips and only 20% work. More intresting to see hands on and a voiceover.
Get rid of your CaCa music and you will do much better...and keep a few more watchers.
That boat is in a bad condition what a shame
You talk to muchhhhhh