Luuuv tubils, had then for 6 years across 3 bikes. I've hit some real knarly rocks at speed and never had a flat. I run 2 psi wet, 4 psi dry. Best traction ever !!
Love the Tubliss system - been running them for years and recently been making trails and going through the gnarliest of gnarl and not a one tire issue. Note: you must check your pressures each day of riding and air up a bit. Listen to Kyle at 26:23 mark here and he's 100% right in this entire video. Better traction, better feel, very dependable but you do have to check your air pressure. I have mousse on the front and it feels completely dead...but I like going with Mousse in the front and Tubliss in the rear. With my tires I run 2 psi and lots of traction.
Before levering on the 2nd side of the tire, I recommend thoroughly soaking the red liner while you have easy access to insure it easily slides up the edge of the wheel. It will have a better chance of seating correctly & not having a leak. I've had leaking issues when I failed to do this step. I have 341 hours on my current tubeless setup.
I tried Tubliss and loved the traction but hated the punture flats, I did some research on dirt bike tire design and learned that dirt bike tires are engineered and designed to be used with a tube, Mouses have no pressure adjust ability, are expensive, difficult to install , don't really last very long, and feel strange when I ran Tubliss at really low pressure I was always worried about slamming a rock at speed and putting a flat spot in my rim, although that never happened, I install Motion Pro plastic rim tape and use extreme duty 4mm tubes and run 7-9 pounds of air, depending on the terrain and conditions, and have had excellent results and have yet to get a flat, granted I'm not racing anymore and I'm not trying to be the fastest guy on the mountain but the 4mm tubes although a bit heavy, they are very resistant against flats, I know plenty of guys that like tubliss, but like all of our tire options, it has it's draw backs and isn't for everybody.
same here. i would just add that to prevent flats from sand or mud leaking inside the tire and rubbing on that HD tube, not only use the rim tape over the spoke nuts... use silicon under both the rim lock nut and the valve stem nut. it needs the silicon because the rim is not really flat and does not seal 100% under the sides of the nut. while putting silicon under the valve stem nut, it is also smart to leave the nut up away from the rim 1 or 2 mm, so that if the tube shifts in the tire you can see the stem angle change. i like to start out with the stem at a slight leading angle when installing the tire. it normally shifts slightly in the first 10 hrs (as the rim lock distorts the bead a bit) and ends up perfectly straight from then on. but if you break a rim lock you will be able to see the stem at an angle and fix the thing before it wrecks the tube.
ive changed out tubliss a fair amount of times. ive gotten pretty good at it now. tire changes are pretty quick and i like the adjustability of it. pretty much everyone i know runs tubliss. theres barely anyone i know who runs bibs and a few who run tubes.
Dualsport bike with tubes: using armorall the last 6-7 years and noticed tires slipping on the rim with rim locks torqued well. Used wd-40 off and on for 30 years before and they seemed to slip less. Seems like the fish oil absorbs into the tire where as the silicone doesn't. Armorall was always nice for field repairs due to the residual. Trailbike: Tubliss seems to lock everything into place regardless. Nice system, but frustrating when you can't tell where the leak is coming from. Stans tire sealant helps finding the leak with a visual easier. Great video Kyle, thanks for taking the time to post it.
300 hours on my tubliss only 1 flat , im stoked with it Only thing i dont like is running super low pressure like 3psi and slamming logs and roots i always stress im going to hit the rim , it will probably be fine but its always on my mind 😅
Thank you! I successfully installed tubliss on my first try thanks to this video. My local shop wanted $250. I laughed at them and walked out. I fix planes, figured I can do this even though I HATE changing tires haha
I have had Tubliss on my last two bikes, I really like them for where and what terrain I ride, I have had no issues. Well lubed during install is everything, I have a bottle of Murphy's oil soap in the shop which is cheap and works well also.
Nice work man. A couple of pretty good tips there!!! I challenge you to do another tubliis install on a front tire. Nobody on the internet has done one. At least not that ive been able to find. Only the rear tire. The first time i did one on the front tire, I honestly didn't think i was going to be able to it, at least not without breaking something!!! Obviously I know you can, but it would be great to see that video and youd be the first 👍
Been using Tubliss since you introduced this system to me via video a few years ago. I use Armor All on and in the tire while first placing the wheel into the tire, and then once the tire is on, I use the Armor All again, in place of the soapy water they show in the instructions; you simply cannot use too much! Also, I've done some experiments with tire sealants since latex based sealants, like Stan's, are not going to be compatible with Armor All. One brand I find is compatible is Flat Out.
Just picked up my first dirt bike, I ahead run tubeless on my mountain bikes so looked at options in the dirt bike world. I just installed this on my front tire today (waiting for the rear to arrive), what a pain haha. Honestly one of the hardest parts was removing the front tire, maybe because it was new? I dunno. Excited to try these out though!!
I raced the RMEC circuit for 10 years on tubes. I ran always 14 in the front and 12 in the rear. I used the new tube inside an old cut tube with baby powder for lube. In 10 years of racing I had 3 flats. Each time I was pushing it too hard in really rocky sections and pinched the tube. But only once did I have a flat in the front. Luckily it was near the gas stop so I rode in and changed the tube at the gas stop. Only lost a few points at the check before. The last flat I had I rode the last 40 miles on a rear flat and came in first in the B class anyway at a national Enduro. (Block and Tackle 1990) As long as you backed off a bit on the big sharp rocks, my setup worked just fine. I am not sure the Tubliss has enough advantages. Tire changing is no longer easy. (As a bike mechanic and racer I probably changed more like 1000 tires). You still gotta worry about getting a flat and carry a plug kit. (granted that is easier and faster than replacing a tube). I am not about to put that slime in my tire/tube. I hate that stuff. Its so sticky and nasty and a ridiculous mess to clean up. But that means that a cactus spine can give me a flat now. Never had that happen with my setup. Tubliss wasn't yet invented when I was racing, the Mouse system was just out but after changing tires for customers with this, I didn't like it. Too much effort and way too expensive. I am also not a fan of Armor all. That stuff is maybe OK if you use it regularly, but like a drug, if you stop using it for a month, it will crack whatever rubber or plastic way faster. I use soapy water on the bead. I think the best system would be what I have in my bicycles: A tube that had two ends that fit together. It does not go around the full circle (from Gaadi). That means you could change the tube without removing the wheel from the bike. I have done this on our bicycles a few times and it is way easy and fast. Why doesn't anyone make this for Dirt Bikes? just my 2 cents. Also, what was that tool you used to insert the tire in? "our little tool here" at 15:11 looked like just a flat piece of aluminum? Does that come with the kit?
In the MTB realm, Bontrager (Treks house brand) makes rim strips that go onto their rims for running tubeless tires and Stan's sealant. I plan on trying Stan's in my Tubliss setup and keeping Stan's plugs on my rides. Eventually I hope they make everything as light as possible, because one of the reasons for going Tubliss is to minimize the gyroscopic force for the handling. The difference in MTB tire/wheel setups is you can run a carbon rim and tires that are very specific not only in the rubber compound but the tire carcass and the ply of sidewall material which can even be Kevlar material. It's crazy how much R&D they have put into MTB carbon and tires. I haven't been in the MTB game since 2018 so in 6 years it's probably continued to change.
Not good for pavement use. You'll need an excessive amount of tire balance weights opposite of the rim lock to not have a bad hop on pavement, and knobby offroad tires will go out of balance easily. ADV/dual sport bikes generally are not capable enough off-road even with goid offroad tires. No sense in adding a very off-road specific system onto a gravel/dirt roads street bike (ADV bike).
@@charliechucker Tire slime will heal any punctures you get on long trips. I live in texas and was always getting flats on my side by side and dirtbike with tubless and since adding slime, I haven’t had one flat tire!
Great video with explain verbiage. Question please - I've read several places where tube type tires are not to used. The Tusk tires mentioned appear to be tube type but if you're not having a problem then tube type is okay?? Any input greatly appreciated!!
I use tubliss in all my wheels. I race high speed hare scrambles and enduro. I run my 18" rear tires at 10psi as a good compromise for high speed control and low speed traction. I use copious amounts of spray silicone on the entire tubliss system when I'm installing it and the silicone will leave a film on the red band and the tube for a long time. I run 120lbs in the tube and it seats everything better and the system lasts longer. For failure free operation replace the tube at least once per season, replace the red band every two seasons as the rim lock area gets worn out, and every couple months take one of the tire beads off and empty the old soapy water out of the rim and replace with new soapy water. Never let it get dry.
In stead of removing tires, just keep adding tire slime if you suspect it’s getting dry. You are right, things need to stay lubricated to reduce friction, so tire slime is awesome for that and sealing any small leaks you may get over time.
10 years with tubes I have never had a flat, even running 8 psi in sand. Just got a 500 EXC with Tubliss and the bladder is ruined after the first ride here in the Rockies. Maybe it's bad luck, but I think I'll go back to tubes.
I have no trouble with the rears, which are hands down easier than regular tubes. It's the rronts on a skinny dirt bike rim that are really tough for me on the final spooning on the second side. Getting the bead into the drop center opposite of the spoons on the very last bit is very trying, but my techniques, tools used, and lubricants used are evolving and making it easier. Big carpenter's squueze type bar clamps really help, but using them to borh squeeze the beads together AND pivot the tire down towards the drop center while doing the final spooning on the front is a critical step for me. Murphy's oil soap or Murphy's Tire Lube this last time overy old bottle of ArmorAll seemed to work a lot better as well. Pushing the bar if the bar/squeeze clamps towards the axle was able to force the bead down in front of the drop center, and the spooning was then able to pry it / slide the bead into drop center. The Tubliss bladder liner is always hogging the drop center space on the skinny front dirt bike rims, which is why it seems more difficult up front vs rear
Great video, very detailed and I really wanna give it a try in my bike . Just a question , So what happens when you get a flat tire , let’s say nail or something . How would you would you fix that ? Just like any normal tubliss tire ?
I prefer tubes hands down. I would go tu bliss in the back and moouse insert in the front if I was competing. Low pressure has a point where it's good and a point where it's bad just like tuning a guitar you can be above or below pitch. A tube keeps my traction to the ground. Just my opinion I'm not arguing with anyone. 🔥
speaking like someone who has clearly not run tubliss. your comment makes no sense, if have actually run tubliss. tubes totally suck. no complaint about tubliss is that it's more complicated, otherwise, in every way it beats tubes.
My rear tire sealed up easy but my front I can’t figure out why it won’t seal, I replaced the tape lubed the hell out of it not understanding why the low side will not seal. Any suggestions?
I have a TuBliss installed with Pirelli MT21. It was sealed OK for about 2-3 month without sealant. Today suddenly it started leaking. I tightened the low pressure rim lock nut a bit more yesterday. Could that have ruined the seal? What can I try?
I know you're "not allowed" to run them on the street but can you fill the low side to 15 psi so you aren't destroying tires jumping from trail to trail?
I run Nitro mousse and so does almost everyone i know who rides seriously here in the Northeast. Tons of rocks here, can't risk the flats charging hard with Tubliss, especially in races.
@@OtisFlint Yeah pretty much everyone I ride with went to mousses too. Some of race and some don't but we ride a lot of rocky trails in the Ozarks and were sick of flats. A couple guys tried the tubliss but then we were always stopping to plug tires.
@@christobey4198 Yeah a few guys i ride with have tried tubliss, some have stuck with it, most have not. Its great for the rear tire, slower speeds to maximize traction, but in the front, not so much. Have seen several failures in front tires, and the tire doesn't always stay on the bead. It happened to one of our guys 5 miles into a 70 mile enduro. He rode 65 miles on the flat.
Gotta love TuBliss my choice for over a decade, never a flat @ 8 psi in hundreds of miles over Hawaii's sharp gnarly lava flows, but here on the mainland a front knob got peeled back by rounded Desert rocks creating a big leak that would only hold air for 5 hr a ride, if it went flat so what, I keep going, so I put up with it for 10 rides, adding Slime & Fix-A-Flat would not plug the big puncture, so one morning I was eating Oat Meal and had a red neck~flash~fix, Hey! I bet Oat meal will plug that hole. So using some tubing, and being a human compressor, I blew a cup of cooked oat meal into the low pressure side and Viola! no more leak, I got 700+ miles on that tire that I would have tossed @ 150 Mi. ~~~~~~> Top Ten if a knobby tyre could talk 10. O no! another lava flow? 9. He's roosting rocks all day 8. Shit! he's always on the gas 7. Ha, ha, yea!..I spit my rider off 6. Ouch! Bib Mousse tube installation 5. The bastard locked me up on asphalt! 4. Come on dude not another muddy moto? 3. Damn! he's flicking that clutch lever again! 2. Hooter chick asphalt burnouts are hard on me 1. No shit! I gotta traction a 1,000 mi off road race? ~Gasser Classic~
Get some metal valve caps with seals in them instead of those plastic ones . Also every time you check the liner pressure you'll loose 5 psi since it holds so little volume.
I wonder if I can use the Tubliss system on the front wheel of my TW200? I believe the width of the wheel is 2.5" so not sure if it's possible. Does anyone have experience?
Looking to add Tubliss to my soon the be received Ducati DesertX Rally wheels . Question : Can i use the bike on road and highway driving to trails ? If so any speed restrictions ?
Question Kyle or anyone else with tubeless experience …. Bought a used bike with tubeless and every week when I go to ride the tubeless has lost some pressure and I have to pump it back up …. Is this normal for tubeless ?
its because that rim tape cant seal in air perfectly. i'm guessing we could find the perfect glue to apply at the same time as the tape and it would get better. maybe shoe-go. would be messy but would dry once its all installed. only downside may be cleaning the rim later when doing it again. wire wheel on a drill autta work though. i think using silicon where the stems and the rim lock go through the rim should help with the leaks as well.
Pull the valve core out of the low pressure valve and add 4 ounces of mtb tubeless sealant. I use Orange Seal and a Stans injector. That will seal any slow leaks in the tire.
@@yukonjon5964 for my install I had to clean the rim of moose lube. No matter what I did it wouldn’t stick properly but after wrapping it around a couple times it stays in place.
Dude that system looks like a serious faff . Rim tape🤦🏼♂️ 2 air chambers 🤦🏼♂️ . My mates like the nomouse system which is very similar.. I'm all about the lucioli. For me it was a game changer .
Slavens charges shipping, RM doesn't, and you get a few bucks back with RM cash. I just priced out a large order with both and it was slightly cheaper with RM after you factor in shipping and rewards.
Funny , I just did one too and RM was $45 bucks more including the 15.64 RM bucks I'd receive. $12.50 shipping from Fedx is worth it for me.@@OtisFlint
Mousse guy myself... Most buddies are now as well... No worries, no plugs, no flats, no reason not to these days.... But to each their own they say, it's good to have options...
Lets look at the value you brought with this comment. You came to a product installation video to comment about how you don't use the product, but it's totally cool if people do. How about you grade yourself, what grade do you think you deserve?
Haha, thanks buddy... I would venture to say you wouldn't grade my comments very highly... And I'm sure Bro theresen doesn't mind the feedback judging by how many DBC t-shirts are in my closet... You may have missed the "to each their own" part in said comment... I really don't give a fu@$ what you use or what you think. I think Kyle makes good content on this stuff and I will continue to watch and possibly throw out some more low grade comments.... So troll away my friend, happy TH-cam'n😎
Yes, I'm sure he loves your comment and if he's aware of what is in your closet, clearly you have a very close relationship. Everyone deserves love! @@scottyparutube
I actually started running a Tubliss/Mousse combo on my front tire this year with a Goldentyre 216 fatty. It means I can air all the way down for crazy traction, or I can add some air for higher speed stuff. So far it's been amazing! Installation is... interesting. @@snowygnome
So he’s done this over 100 times but still can’t install them without scratching up the rims? If I purchased a new bike and requested TuBliss be installed and upon delivery of the bike I discovered the rims were scratched front and rear and on both sides I’d be pretty pissed off. 😡
1) He's not a dealer selling bikes, they're his bikes so he does not have to be careful with them 2) They're dirt bikes. You're an "adventure" guy so we know you don't leave the fire roads, but those of us who actually ride are not the least bit concerned with scratches.
So you call it “tubeless” but you actually put a “tube” in the tire that didn’t have a tub in it to begin with. Why is it called tubeless then? Less means take away.
Tubeless are silly why is it called tubeless when it has a bloody tube 😂😂 one thing I have noticed is that the people who run tubeless can't ride lol like they are very slow careful riders wich is not A bad thing , but I think it's the real reason why they run tubeless so they can just bash into things without getting a flat wich is just silly you should learn how to ride instead of making your bike strong enough to handle your abuse, I ride a yz 250 no fly wheel no 18 inch wheel not running 2 psi I run 13-14 psi have never once got a flat tyre in my hole life guess I'm just lucky 😂 last week I was out in a new spot and there was some mad hill climbs, there was 2 older blokes they where on KTM and a Husky 300 they both had tubeless and there Tyers look like they where about to fall apart like Evey single knob was ready to just push off with your finger 😮 I seen this and couldn't help but to laugh out loud 😂 and I said why the bloody hell are those Tyers looking like that for , they both got upset and said they are tubeless and we run really low pressure so we can get up that hill wich he then pointed at and he said that's how the Tyers are ment to look , then he told me to try get up that hill with my 19 wheel and tubes on a motocross bike and he asked what psi I run I said 14 he laughed and said Goodluck you can't make it up , I turned around went up the hill and came back down before they could even load up there bikes they where shocked and just said you must of been riding a long time to be able to get up that , then I told them to pump up there Tyers because you can't ride a motorcycle with 2psi in the Tyers is just not right , people say your contact patch is bigger with lower psi 🤦 yes it is to a point , but if you go too low your Tyer shape will change and just be a flat bit of rubber between your rim and the ground wich may fell like you are getting traction when you are going slow up hill but you really are not getting more traction then you would having your Tyers pump up properly, you need to keep the round shape of your Tyers in any situation for the knobs of your Tyer to actually go into the dirt and grab , he then said I must have a flywheel weight on the bike 😂 keep your wheels as light as possible and keep them pumped up and you will learn more and be a better rider for it , it's the same thing for all the guys out there doing wheelies on sports bike on a flat tyre thinking it's there skill if you can't do it with a pumped up Tyer then you can't do it !
just like racing it's always more the rider than the bike. the reason their knobs are ripping off the tubliss tires is that with the low pressure there is more movement as the wide contact patch keeps flexing as it roles. the solid knobs can't flex so the rubber around them gets destroyed. the sidewalls also flex too much and heat up. if you are going slow on wet rock or on muddy roots then you want a tubliss gummy hybrid. if you can hold some speed and can accept more risk by hitting stuff faster, then you're right, a normal tire works just fine at 12psi rear and 14psi front (depending on tire brand and conditions).
fish on 🎣 and they come with tubes because its more effective for companies to do so, if there was another product they could use that was as cheaper they would use it @@zackiaryruddick701
So you want us to believe you have fitted a tubeless system every month for 10 years? They must be chit, I uses mouses and probably replace them one a year.
Luuuv tubils, had then for 6 years across 3 bikes. I've hit some real knarly rocks at speed and never had a flat. I run 2 psi wet, 4 psi dry. Best traction ever !!
Love the Tubliss system - been running them for years and recently been making trails and going through the gnarliest of gnarl and not a one tire issue. Note: you must check your pressures each day of riding and air up a bit. Listen to Kyle at 26:23 mark here and he's 100% right in this entire video. Better traction, better feel, very dependable but you do have to check your air pressure. I have mousse on the front and it feels completely dead...but I like going with Mousse in the front and Tubliss in the rear. With my tires I run 2 psi and lots of traction.
The trick of placing a tire iron near the last bead point solves that final difficult step and helps save the rim. Thanks
Before levering on the 2nd side of the tire, I recommend thoroughly soaking the red liner while you have easy access to insure it easily slides up the edge of the wheel. It will have a better chance of seating correctly & not having a leak. I've had leaking issues when I failed to do this step. I have 341 hours on my current tubeless setup.
I tried Tubliss and loved the traction but hated the punture flats, I did some research on dirt bike tire design and learned that dirt bike tires are engineered and designed to be used with a tube, Mouses have no pressure adjust ability, are expensive, difficult to install , don't really last very long, and feel strange when I ran Tubliss at really low pressure I was always worried about slamming a rock at speed and putting a flat spot in my rim, although that never happened, I install Motion Pro plastic rim tape and use extreme duty 4mm tubes and run 7-9 pounds of air, depending on the terrain and conditions, and have had excellent results and have yet to get a flat, granted I'm not racing anymore and I'm not trying to be the fastest guy on the mountain but the 4mm tubes although a bit heavy, they are very resistant against flats, I know plenty of guys that like tubliss, but like all of our tire options, it has it's draw backs and isn't for everybody.
same here. i would just add that to prevent flats from sand or mud leaking inside the tire and rubbing on that HD tube, not only use the rim tape over the spoke nuts... use silicon under both the rim lock nut and the valve stem nut. it needs the silicon because the rim is not really flat and does not seal 100% under the sides of the nut.
while putting silicon under the valve stem nut, it is also smart to leave the nut up away from the rim 1 or 2 mm, so that if the tube shifts in the tire you can see the stem angle change. i like to start out with the stem at a slight leading angle when installing the tire. it normally shifts slightly in the first 10 hrs (as the rim lock distorts the bead a bit) and ends up perfectly straight from then on. but if you break a rim lock you will be able to see the stem at an angle and fix the thing before it wrecks the tube.
ive changed out tubliss a fair amount of times. ive gotten pretty good at it now. tire changes are pretty quick and i like the adjustability of it. pretty much everyone i know runs tubliss. theres barely anyone i know who runs bibs and a few who run tubes.
Great video Kyle, thanks for showing your tips to novices like myself!
Dualsport bike with tubes: using armorall the last 6-7 years and noticed tires slipping on the rim with rim locks torqued well. Used wd-40 off and on for 30 years before and they seemed to slip less. Seems like the fish oil absorbs into the tire where as the silicone doesn't. Armorall was always nice for field repairs due to the residual.
Trailbike: Tubliss seems to lock everything into place regardless. Nice system, but frustrating when you can't tell where the leak is coming from. Stans tire sealant helps finding the leak with a visual easier.
Great video Kyle, thanks for taking the time to post it.
300 hours on my tubliss only 1 flat , im stoked with it
Only thing i dont like is running super low pressure like 3psi and slamming logs and roots i always stress im going to hit the rim , it will probably be fine but its always on my mind 😅
5:05 so what I did before the tape I degrease my rim and heated it up with hair dryer it sticks much better than on cold rim
You are the tubliss man. Always hit you up during my changes Kyle.
I’m with you, never ride a bike without tubeless!!
Thank you! I successfully installed tubliss on my first try thanks to this video. My local shop wanted $250. I laughed at them and walked out. I fix planes, figured I can do this even though I HATE changing tires haha
Well done. Thank you. I am doing 4 tires tomorrow in prep for a trip to Colorado. Very helpful.
Here waiting on the Thursday 1/18 2 bike giveaway ! 👍
For the different tires and races I run it’s nice to be able to fine tune the pressure, makes a world of difference for me.
You need to do a follow up video on removing a front tire with Tubliss. That one kicks my ass every time.
I have had Tubliss on my last two bikes, I really like them for where and what terrain I ride, I have had no issues. Well lubed during install is everything, I have a bottle of Murphy's oil soap in the shop which is cheap and works well also.
Thank you. I'm definitely getting these for my DRZ400. It's something I always worry about when cruising the back country, especially alone.
Thank you for all the content! Successfully installed Tubliss on my new Husky. Pumped to test these out
Nice work man. A couple of pretty good tips there!!!
I challenge you to do another tubliis install on a front tire. Nobody on the internet has done one. At least not that ive been able to find. Only the rear tire. The first time i did one on the front tire, I honestly didn't think i was going to be able to it, at least not without breaking something!!! Obviously I know you can, but it would be great to see that video and youd be the first 👍
I am gonna steal that 2 iron finish - great job.
I also use tublis since I ride dirtbikes and I am happy with it.
As anyone else wondering when the hard enduro bike giveaway is? And yes I agree tubliss is the shiznit
It’s tomorrow, the 18th.
Use a conduit deburring for the drilled hole
Been using Tubliss since you introduced this system to me via video a few years ago. I use Armor All on and in the tire while first placing the wheel into the tire, and then once the tire is on, I use the Armor All again, in place of the soapy water they show in the instructions; you simply cannot use too much! Also, I've done some experiments with tire sealants since latex based sealants, like Stan's, are not going to be compatible with Armor All. One brand I find is compatible is Flat Out.
Just picked up my first dirt bike, I ahead run tubeless on my mountain bikes so looked at options in the dirt bike world.
I just installed this on my front tire today (waiting for the rear to arrive), what a pain haha. Honestly one of the hardest parts was removing the front tire, maybe because it was new? I dunno.
Excited to try these out though!!
Yes it is super worth it!! Just installed it a couple months ago
Is there any better options maybe instead of the rim tape, like a rubber cement or some sort of sealer that can be painted on?
I raced the RMEC circuit for 10 years on tubes. I ran always 14 in the front and 12 in the rear. I used the new tube inside an old cut tube with baby powder for lube. In 10 years of racing I had 3 flats. Each time I was pushing it too hard in really rocky sections and pinched the tube. But only once did I have a flat in the front. Luckily it was near the gas stop so I rode in and changed the tube at the gas stop. Only lost a few points at the check before. The last flat I had I rode the last 40 miles on a rear flat and came in first in the B class anyway at a national Enduro. (Block and Tackle 1990) As long as you backed off a bit on the big sharp rocks, my setup worked just fine.
I am not sure the Tubliss has enough advantages. Tire changing is no longer easy. (As a bike mechanic and racer I probably changed more like 1000 tires). You still gotta worry about getting a flat and carry a plug kit. (granted that is easier and faster than replacing a tube). I am not about to put that slime in my tire/tube. I hate that stuff. Its so sticky and nasty and a ridiculous mess to clean up. But that means that a cactus spine can give me a flat now. Never had that happen with my setup.
Tubliss wasn't yet invented when I was racing, the Mouse system was just out but after changing tires for customers with this, I didn't like it. Too much effort and way too expensive.
I am also not a fan of Armor all. That stuff is maybe OK if you use it regularly, but like a drug, if you stop using it for a month, it will crack whatever rubber or plastic way faster. I use soapy water on the bead.
I think the best system would be what I have in my bicycles: A tube that had two ends that fit together. It does not go around the full circle (from Gaadi). That means you could change the tube without removing the wheel from the bike. I have done this on our bicycles a few times and it is way easy and fast. Why doesn't anyone make this for Dirt Bikes?
just my 2 cents.
Also, what was that tool you used to insert the tire in? "our little tool here" at 15:11 looked like just a flat piece of aluminum? Does that come with the kit?
The flat piece of metal when he put the rim inside the tire does come with the kit
In the MTB realm, Bontrager (Treks house brand) makes rim strips that go onto their rims for running tubeless tires and Stan's sealant. I plan on trying Stan's in my Tubliss setup and keeping Stan's plugs on my rides. Eventually I hope they make everything as light as possible, because one of the reasons for going Tubliss is to minimize the gyroscopic force for the handling. The difference in MTB tire/wheel setups is you can run a carbon rim and tires that are very specific not only in the rubber compound but the tire carcass and the ply of sidewall material which can even be Kevlar material. It's crazy how much R&D they have put into MTB carbon and tires. I haven't been in the MTB game since 2018 so in 6 years it's probably continued to change.
Great 👍, does this work on an adventure bike equally well? Main concern is preventing flats on a cross country trip
Not good for pavement use. You'll need an excessive amount of tire balance weights opposite of the rim lock to not have a bad hop on pavement, and knobby offroad tires will go out of balance easily. ADV/dual sport bikes generally are not capable enough off-road even with goid offroad tires. No sense in adding a very off-road specific system onto a gravel/dirt roads street bike (ADV bike).
@@charliechucker Tire slime will heal any punctures you get on long trips. I live in texas and was always getting flats on my side by side and dirtbike with tubless and since adding slime, I haven’t had one flat tire!
I like tubless over moose for th adjustment of it.even finished a race with a tire puncture
I hate doing the tape for these too. Other than that part of the install I much prefer the system to tubes.
Maybe it’s just me, but I find that I always have over spray of Armor Al on the disc brake. I always clean it with brake cleaner before reinstalling.
What spoons are you using.
Great video with explain verbiage. Question please - I've read several places where tube type tires are not to used. The Tusk tires mentioned appear to be tube type but if you're not having a problem then tube type is okay?? Any input greatly appreciated!!
Nice work. Was wondering how these were installed.
I use tubliss in all my wheels. I race high speed hare scrambles and enduro. I run my 18" rear tires at 10psi as a good compromise for high speed control and low speed traction. I use copious amounts of spray silicone on the entire tubliss system when I'm installing it and the silicone will leave a film on the red band and the tube for a long time. I run 120lbs in the tube and it seats everything better and the system lasts longer. For failure free operation replace the tube at least once per season, replace the red band every two seasons as the rim lock area gets worn out, and every couple months take one of the tire beads off and empty the old soapy water out of the rim and replace with new soapy water. Never let it get dry.
In stead of removing tires, just keep adding tire slime if you suspect it’s getting dry. You are right, things need to stay lubricated to reduce friction, so tire slime is awesome for that and sealing any small leaks you may get over time.
10 years with tubes I have never had a flat, even running 8 psi in sand. Just got a 500 EXC with Tubliss and the bladder is ruined after the first ride here in the Rockies. Maybe it's bad luck, but I think I'll go back to tubes.
gonna try that pre placeing the last spoon trick next time. that second side when putting it on has always been rough compared to my tubed bikes
I have no trouble with the rears, which are hands down easier than regular tubes. It's the rronts on a skinny dirt bike rim that are really tough for me on the final spooning on the second side. Getting the bead into the drop center opposite of the spoons on the very last bit is very trying, but my techniques, tools used, and lubricants used are evolving and making it easier. Big carpenter's squueze type bar clamps really help, but using them to borh squeeze the beads together AND pivot the tire down towards the drop center while doing the final spooning on the front is a critical step for me. Murphy's oil soap or Murphy's Tire Lube this last time overy old bottle of ArmorAll seemed to work a lot better as well. Pushing the bar if the bar/squeeze clamps towards the axle was able to force the bead down in front of the drop center, and the spooning was then able to pry it / slide the bead into drop center. The Tubliss bladder liner is always hogging the drop center space on the skinny front dirt bike rims, which is why it seems more difficult up front vs rear
That system looks like a real pain to install, not for me, but good to have options.
Great video, very detailed and I really wanna give it a try in my bike . Just a question , So what happens when you get a flat tire , let’s say nail or something . How would you would you fix that ? Just like any normal tubliss tire ?
I prefer tubes hands down. I would go tu bliss in the back and moouse insert in the front if I was competing. Low pressure has a point where it's good and a point where it's bad just like tuning a guitar you can be above or below pitch. A tube keeps my traction to the ground. Just my opinion I'm not arguing with anyone. 🔥
speaking like someone who has clearly not run tubliss. your comment makes no sense, if have actually run tubliss. tubes totally suck. no complaint about tubliss is that it's more complicated, otherwise, in every way it beats tubes.
Great video. I had Tubliss installed at my dealer on my beta but am getting ready to sell it. Any tips for getting it off?
I never got how the rim lock doesn't pinch the inner tube. Hurt my eyes to see that...
Do you recommend Stans sealant in the low and high pressure side? Just went tubeless...love the added rear traction and pressure flexibility!
Great video, thanks for sharing. One question, can you have normal tire pressure in the tire with that system?
My rear tire sealed up easy but my front I can’t figure out why it won’t seal, I replaced the tape lubed the hell out of it not understanding why the low side will not seal. Any suggestions?
I just run heavy duty tubes for the MX track and high speed sandy desert trails. No flats yet 🤞
I have a TuBliss installed with Pirelli MT21. It was sealed OK for about 2-3 month without sealant. Today suddenly it started leaking. I tightened the low pressure rim lock nut a bit more yesterday. Could that have ruined the seal? What can I try?
SO can you have them 180 degrees from each other?
I know you're "not allowed" to run them on the street but can you fill the low side to 15 psi so you aren't destroying tires jumping from trail to trail?
Yikes, you scratched the crap out of that rim. lol. I wish I could be that nonchalant about scratches..lol.
They're dirt bikes
I’ve never tried tubliss. I need to order some.
Have you try the lucioli inn tube , looks interesting
I agree Michelin bibs do feel dead but the Nitromousse do not.
I run Nitro mousse and so does almost everyone i know who rides seriously here in the Northeast. Tons of rocks here, can't risk the flats charging hard with Tubliss, especially in races.
@@OtisFlint Yeah pretty much everyone I ride with went to mousses too. Some of race and some don't but we ride a lot of rocky trails in the Ozarks and were sick of flats. A couple guys tried the tubliss but then we were always stopping to plug tires.
@@christobey4198 Yeah a few guys i ride with have tried tubliss, some have stuck with it, most have not. Its great for the rear tire, slower speeds to maximize traction, but in the front, not so much. Have seen several failures in front tires, and the tire doesn't always stay on the bead. It happened to one of our guys 5 miles into a 70 mile enduro. He rode 65 miles on the flat.
mousses are the only way to go.
Why wouldn't they just make different size rim tape to fit your tire?
So.... would you say, you would, suggest tubliss?
How is tubeless on sandy terrain
fine. just run a bit more air in it
Gotta love TuBliss my choice for over a decade, never a flat @ 8 psi in hundreds of miles over Hawaii's sharp gnarly lava flows, but here on the mainland a front knob got peeled back by rounded Desert rocks creating a big leak that would only hold air for 5 hr a ride, if it went flat so what, I keep going, so I put up with it for 10 rides, adding Slime & Fix-A-Flat would not plug the big puncture, so one morning I was eating Oat Meal and had a red neck~flash~fix, Hey! I bet Oat meal will plug that hole. So using some tubing, and being a human compressor, I blew a cup of cooked oat meal into the low pressure side and Viola! no more leak, I got 700+ miles on that tire that I would have tossed @ 150 Mi.
~~~~~~>
Top Ten if a knobby tyre could talk
10. O no! another lava flow?
9. He's roosting rocks all day
8. Shit! he's always on the gas
7. Ha, ha, yea!..I spit my rider off
6. Ouch! Bib Mousse tube installation
5. The bastard locked me up on asphalt!
4. Come on dude not another muddy moto?
3. Damn! he's flicking that clutch lever again!
2. Hooter chick asphalt burnouts are hard on me
1. No shit! I gotta traction a 1,000 mi off road race?
~Gasser Classic~
Frigg'n oatmeal?!?! That's hilarious! What a great idea! HAHAHA! 🤘😎
How come your compressor won't do 110 psi? Don't most do around 130 psi or so?
How long will your inner liner hold the 110psi? Mine drop to like 85 psi in a day or so.
Get some metal valve caps with seals in them instead of those plastic ones . Also every time you check the liner pressure you'll loose 5 psi since it holds so little volume.
I use slim or Stan’s when I do mine . I use slim or Stan’s 8 oz .Punctured a tire and seals hole . Plus it’s a good lube for easier mounting
I wonder if I can use the Tubliss system on the front wheel of my TW200? I believe the width of the wheel is 2.5" so not sure if it's possible. Does anyone have experience?
Hey. Once the tubeless system is on would you need to take it off and clean it when doing a tyre change? Thanks
Great informative vid. Good job.
Looking to add Tubliss to my soon the be received Ducati DesertX Rally wheels . Question : Can i use the bike on road and highway driving to trails ? If so any speed restrictions ?
Nice job👍
Never had a problem with tubliss
Question Kyle or anyone else with tubeless experience …. Bought a used bike with tubeless and every week when I go to ride the tubeless has lost some pressure and I have to pump it back up …. Is this normal for tubeless ?
Yea lol every ride check it and air it up
yes
its because that rim tape cant seal in air perfectly. i'm guessing we could find the perfect glue to apply at the same time as the tape and it would get better. maybe shoe-go. would be messy but would dry once its all installed. only downside may be cleaning the rim later when doing it again. wire wheel on a drill autta work though.
i think using silicon where the stems and the rim lock go through the rim should help with the leaks as well.
Pull the valve core out of the low pressure valve and add 4 ounces of mtb tubeless sealant.
I use Orange Seal and a Stans injector.
That will seal any slow leaks in the tire.
@@yukonjon5964 for my install I had to clean the rim of moose lube. No matter what I did it wouldn’t stick properly but after wrapping it around a couple times it stays in place.
Is mounting the tusk talon easier than there tusk d sport? That d sport is crazy hard.
Dude that system looks like a serious faff . Rim tape🤦🏼♂️ 2 air chambers 🤦🏼♂️ . My mates like the nomouse system which is very similar.. I'm all about the lucioli. For me it was a game changer .
Thanks that's a good video
Great Video!
Mr Wolf Mousse Balls FTW!
Almost everyone lost their mind when they saw the scratches on the rim. Not me though. Love my tubeliss system.
very helpful, thanks
How u like the talon vs ve33s?
i give you a like for the big effort
I screwed up 3 in hte last 2 days.
I am surprised that you are not using a tire changer. So much easier on the back.
Your no Jay Larson but, you got it done.........lol Never had any luck with those things, I just run mousse's.
100 times at $100 each, woah! Almost as much as a new bike. Just installed them on my new bike, can't wait for the snow to melt so I can try them.
Shouldn’t leak in a couple of days to flat unless installed wrong .
Surprised you don't use that soapy water bead up that Tubliss advises on.
It causes corrosion. Armor-all is better
Appears RM has raised all their prices. Would love to help you out but prices are better at Slavens.
Slavens charges shipping, RM doesn't, and you get a few bucks back with RM cash. I just priced out a large order with both and it was slightly cheaper with RM after you factor in shipping and rewards.
Funny , I just did one too and RM was $45 bucks more including the 15.64 RM bucks I'd receive. $12.50 shipping from Fedx is worth it for me.@@OtisFlint
Mousse guy myself... Most buddies are now as well... No worries, no plugs, no flats, no reason not to these days.... But to each their own they say, it's good to have options...
Lets look at the value you brought with this comment. You came to a product installation video to comment about how you don't use the product, but it's totally cool if people do. How about you grade yourself, what grade do you think you deserve?
Haha, thanks buddy... I would venture to say you wouldn't grade my comments very highly... And I'm sure Bro theresen doesn't mind the feedback judging by how many DBC t-shirts are in my closet... You may have missed the "to each their own" part in said comment... I really don't give a fu@$ what you use or what you think. I think Kyle makes good content on this stuff and I will continue to watch and possibly throw out some more low grade comments.... So troll away my friend, happy TH-cam'n😎
Yes, I'm sure he loves your comment and if he's aware of what is in your closet, clearly you have a very close relationship. Everyone deserves love! @@scottyparutube
I want to try mousse but I have tubliss on this bike. No reason to take off. I am promising myself and you that I will try it on my next bike!
I actually started running a Tubliss/Mousse combo on my front tire this year with a Goldentyre 216 fatty. It means I can air all the way down for crazy traction, or I can add some air for higher speed stuff. So far it's been amazing! Installation is... interesting. @@snowygnome
I ran them for a while then went back to tubes......
Aaargh. The tape thing. I wish I watched this first.
So he’s done this over 100 times but still can’t install them without scratching up the rims? If I purchased a new bike and requested TuBliss be installed and upon delivery of the bike I discovered the rims were scratched front and rear and on both sides I’d be pretty pissed off. 😡
I was surprised aswell when I saw the damage.
@@rehepeks I’ve only done about half a dozen tyre changes and I can still do it without damaging the wheels. 👍
1) He's not a dealer selling bikes, they're his bikes so he does not have to be careful with them
2) They're dirt bikes. You're an "adventure" guy so we know you don't leave the fire roads, but those of us who actually ride are not the least bit concerned with scratches.
Spend a fortune on bikes then proceed to scratch and chip all the black paint on your wheels. 😂
Be careful not to ArmorAll your brake rotor!
So you call it “tubeless” but you actually put a “tube” in the tire that didn’t have a tub in it to begin with. Why is it called tubeless then?
Less means take away.
I see a tube
First
No one cares
Tubeless are silly why is it called tubeless when it has a bloody tube 😂😂 one thing I have noticed is that the people who run tubeless can't ride lol like they are very slow careful riders wich is not A bad thing , but I think it's the real reason why they run tubeless so they can just bash into things without getting a flat wich is just silly you should learn how to ride instead of making your bike strong enough to handle your abuse, I ride a yz 250 no fly wheel no 18 inch wheel not running 2 psi I run 13-14 psi have never once got a flat tyre in my hole life guess I'm just lucky 😂 last week I was out in a new spot and there was some mad hill climbs, there was 2 older blokes they where on KTM and a Husky 300 they both had tubeless and there Tyers look like they where about to fall apart like Evey single knob was ready to just push off with your finger 😮 I seen this and couldn't help but to laugh out loud 😂 and I said why the bloody hell are those Tyers looking like that for , they both got upset and said they are tubeless and we run really low pressure so we can get up that hill wich he then pointed at and he said that's how the Tyers are ment to look , then he told me to try get up that hill with my 19 wheel and tubes on a motocross bike and he asked what psi I run I said 14 he laughed and said Goodluck you can't make it up , I turned around went up the hill and came back down before they could even load up there bikes they where shocked and just said you must of been riding a long time to be able to get up that , then I told them to pump up there Tyers because you can't ride a motorcycle with 2psi in the Tyers is just not right , people say your contact patch is bigger with lower psi 🤦 yes it is to a point , but if you go too low your Tyer shape will change and just be a flat bit of rubber between your rim and the ground wich may fell like you are getting traction when you are going slow up hill but you really are not getting more traction then you would having your Tyers pump up properly, you need to keep the round shape of your Tyers in any situation for the knobs of your Tyer to actually go into the dirt and grab , he then said I must have a flywheel weight on the bike 😂 keep your wheels as light as possible and keep them pumped up and you will learn more and be a better rider for it , it's the same thing for all the guys out there doing wheelies on sports bike on a flat tyre thinking it's there skill if you can't do it with a pumped up Tyer then you can't do it !
Cool story bro…. It is TUbliss, bliss, you know like joy, delight, etc. Not tubeless.
well then , this story sounds like that 60yo man at the pub 😅
@@enduro-parts-aus yer mate that's why all bikes come with tubes in them 👍 I don't drink nor do I go to the pub so I wouldn't know
just like racing it's always more the rider than the bike. the reason their knobs are ripping off the tubliss tires is that with the low pressure there is more movement as the wide contact patch keeps flexing as it roles. the solid knobs can't flex so the rubber around them gets destroyed. the sidewalls also flex too much and heat up.
if you are going slow on wet rock or on muddy roots then you want a tubliss gummy hybrid. if you can hold some speed and can accept more risk by hitting stuff faster, then you're right, a normal tire works just fine at 12psi rear and 14psi front (depending on tire brand and conditions).
fish on 🎣 and they come with tubes because its more effective for companies to do so, if there was another product they could use that was as cheaper they would use it @@zackiaryruddick701
So you want us to believe you have fitted a tubeless system every month for 10 years? They must be chit, I uses mouses and probably replace them one a year.
Is say as long as your riding dirtbikes it doesn’t matter.. but for me Bibs!!
Tubeless is 10x harder to change than a bib.. and 3x harder than a tube.