never start on a corner. always start in the middle and do about a foot wide section. then do the opposing side pulling it tight. do the sides the same way and then keep rotating around doing the opposing sides. im sure yours came out fine, but starting in a corner can and usually does lead to wrinkles and or bunched up material at the end. have to to it like an engine block rotating and opposing sides is the best bet. as for the grey screen, you are correct. the problem with projectors in a lit room is that the light in the room washes out the dark colors. by having a grey screen, your helping the dark colors along. and theres no real sacrifice on the light colors in a dark room. kind of like priming a wall grey before painting it black or red. nice work.
In Seattle we have Tool Libraries. ..lending tool library for $20 or $30 a year. The tools are donated by that areas Resident's, or asked for donations, etc, etc The yearly fees are used to pay for someone to be there during certain posted hours (online). And/or volunteers help with hours. And if a big enough group they will use fees to pay for a qualified expert carpenter to be on hand to help explain tool usage and/or project usage and needs -:) Also secure storage of said tools.
I have stretched a stack of canvas for painting on same principle of what you have made, one thing i always do is start stapling fro the middle on all four sides this way you can pull out any kinks or loose spots . Works for me every time.
I used your 2 screw method to hang the frame(without screen on yet) and added additional "french cleat" support between the 2 middle supports. Was easier to get it level with it already leveled on screws. Thanks for your video. I see is has helped quite a few people over the years as it did me.
I built one back years ago and still use it to this day. I followed the same steps as your video but used counter top laminate instead of the screen. It's a bit more stable and easier to clean. I believe it was the Wilsonart Fashion Grey. I also built a frame and wrapped it in velvet to give a nice black edge in case I ever had overflow.
this is a great video! im moving and debating between a projector and 75 in.... im going to go 60-65 and make one of these!!! your a live saver my friend movie night will never be the same!!!
Thanks, Tory! I fully agree - movie night with a huge projected image like this is fantastic. We get way more use out of our basement than I think we otherwise would because it's a great setup.
Carl's also sells a black velvet tape in 2"-4" thicknesses that makes a great high contrast border and allows you a little wiggle room in the event that you have some unevenness (where you'd need to use the keystone function) and want to blow up the image a bit to take up the whole screen.
I’m so glad I watched this. A different video had a really complicated system for hanging the screen that almost derailed me from the project. This looks like the way to go. Thanks for the simple explanation!
I just bought a $100 pull down 100 inch screen from Amazon.ca. Looks great, and it's nice that you can pull it down part way for 2.40 movies, so there are no black bars. Plus it's in front of my TV, so it's nice to have it roll up for TV watching.
Nice job! I built one using the same design with a 2:35 aspect ~130" screen I also wanted to matte the edges so I used some wide hook/loop Velcro tape (just the smooth felt side) and stuck that around the edge of the frame. Looks really nice. Well done!
First, great video. Planning to get a projector for a basement home theater. Looking for a good screen design. Second, I'm amazed by how many people don't have tools based on their comments. Seems like all you NEED is a saw, a drill, a screwdriver, and a staple gun. Do't most guys have these in their garage? Third, is Carl's still in business? All of their items show "not available".
From an upholsterers frame of mind (pun intended), you should staple in the very center of every board, and then start working your stretch from center out on both top and bottom, and then finally the sides, same manner, center out. This method of applying fabric to any frame almost always guarantees that there will be no wrinkles or unintended pleating, especially if you are not working with stretch friendly fabric like you've shown.
I'm not entirely sure why I watched this: I don't have a projector and don't need a screen, but you did a great job showing the process. Well done - my only tip would be to stretch the screen like you would a canvas over stretchers -- it'll help make sure things start off and STAY tight for many years. :)
If you cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom side of the top rail of the screen frame, you could hang it like a french cleat. It would probably be more secure than resting it on the head of two screws.
looks great I'll be sure to check that screen company. You could also use a biscuit cutter and dados on the joints, that would keep them perfectly flush and add some strength.
Wow, just Wow, i dont think id ever go back to a television after owning the Optoma HD131XE, such beautiful vivid colours, versatility and huge screen size, also no worry ever of screen burn, going back to a tv would be silly, (OLED Sucks) however, convincing the wife to buy one is always hard work. And yes, 50% black to 50% white mix is the ultimate colour for projector screens, this is why CRT televisions had a grey crt
black out tape is the black velvet boarder that runs round the edge of your screen it cleans it up and gives your projection area a clean focused edge and traps any over spill of light
Unfortunately I did not film my build of the shelving units but I love how they turned out. I may be doing some other built-ins in my house in the not too distant future and will be filming them if I do. Stay tuned!
Excellent video Nils. After hanging the screen I noticed that the measurements you took were the dimensions of the inside of the 1 x 4 frame. Which is nice because it leaves a boarder. So to finish it off, will you ultimately lay 4" strips of black felt over the edges? I understand that a black board will absorb the light and make for a crisper picture toward the edges.
On my buddy's screen we built it larger than we needed so he could add a border to it, like a black felt border border for absorbing light. When I built mine, I made it as close to the edge as I could, like you see in the beginning of the video, since I didn't plan on adding the border to it. I may change that later but I wasn't sure how much space I'd have to work with. Adding the light absorbing border helps your eyes take in all the contrast of the screen portion, so it is a good idea. Thanks for watching!
I highly recommend getting the sample pack from this brand of screen material, it's 8.5x11 sections of all their options that you can use to compare what each looks like.
when building the frame glue the unions for a much stronger frame, in the end is only a couple of dlls for the wood glue and it makes it much stronger, clean the runs with a damped cloth at building time...
I would suggest that for a crisp edge to the image, it would be better to put some "masking" around the edges. To achieve this, I'd actually create two frames, the inner one that you created here today, and an outer frame which is just the outside edges. The outside frame (which would sit proud of the rear frame) would be wrapped in a non light reflective black velvet like material. This would give a lovely clean edge to the images and also hide any unsightly edges on the screen material.
Hi Nils, after watching your video planning to build the projector screen myself, explained in-detail. I got the same "FlexiGray Projector Screen Material", 145 Inch. Can you please share the Cut measurements for 1X4
Hi, Mohamed. On mine the vertical 1x4s measure 63” long and the horizontals are 123”. The horizontals run the full length while the verticals are sandwiched between the horizontals.
how about borders? I have bought some black boarder tape, but I am unsure how to apply it so I ensure it gets straight, and not get crooked or anything like that...
i was almost did this myself. i was going to go with the same carl gray screen. but amazon has the 120inch motorized one for just $100 bucks. since i have a tv behind it, it made send to go motorized. but when i own a home and have an actual theater room ill want to go this route.
Is the frame of the screen simply sitting on top of the screw heads or is there some sort of attachment? If it's on the screws, is this secure enough? Obviously most of the time this just sits on the wall but what if there are children around or somebody knocks it?
if you want even cheaper, Carls blackout cloth (white) works great. A roll long enough to make a 110" screen was about 30$ on amazon.... then probably 10$ for the wood and L brackets from home depot.
I'm not sure I understand the question because the borders are all behind the screen - the screen material is all you see. The stud finder is one available at Costco: www.costco.com/Precision-Sensors-Professional-Stud-Finder----------.product.100323842.html. You can buy it on Amazon but they're $50 compared to $30 at Costco.
I guess the projected image is smaller than the physical screen which made me think it was the wood showing thru (around the 5:11 mark). Good to hear to was wrong. Thanks!
+StevenFlores just suggested doing a french cleat on it, which is a terrific idea. A bit more work but it'd do a great job. If you're not familiar with french cleats, a quick google search will show you exactly what it is.
So here’s a question not to second-guess you guys or anything but is there a reason why you didn’t just buy the projector paint and tape off and paint out a 16:9 rectangle on the wall? That’s what my brother did and there was less hassle and it looks pretty good because it’s seamless.
I don't, unfortunately, because I wasn't sure how they'd come out and it was my first crack at it, but I'll be building some cabinets for the basement kitchenette at some point and will be sure to make a video of those. For what it's worthy, my Instagram account has pictures of the cabinets as I was building them. instagram.com/diynils/
I have a question more about the projectors... Given that the jump from a 720p and the lowest priced 1080p ones, should I just stick to a 720p for my 1st projector/ budget build?
have you tried a black screen protector? I've seen so many videos about black screen projector, it's awesome. if you have any ideas about it with me in new what do you think?
Hey Nathan. I haven't seen it so I can't say for sure but when I talked to my buddy and then read up on the gray vs white, I can see why the gray is advantageous in non-pitch-black situations. The gray gets you part of the way there toward a higher contrast image (darker colors are assisted by not starting from a white background) while the lighter colors are still able to show up bright and strong. In other words, there's no down side with the gray, only an upside. That's why I went with the gray but, like I said, I haven't compared them myself and I doubt it'd be a dramatic difference.
The gray certainly sounds interesting, I'll have to wait until I find someone who has one. It seems that gray would only have the same effect as dimming the projector if the room is very dark--hence the idea that it comes into greater use in ambient lit rooms. But I wonder how much ambient light it takes to render the gray more effective; I have a dark basement theater room but the lit screen itself causes considerable ambient light, even at 500 lumens from the projector, because the screen fits just between the two side walls. I haven't hung black fabric on them (yet).
Makes sense. Let us know if you get a chance to try out the gray! So far so good for my setup, but we often have some ambient light, which is certainly a factor.
i agree that it doesnt look any better but having a optima projector i use all the time im also aware that video of a projection never shows the true quality ot brightness. im pretty sure it makes a big difference because white was reflect alot of the light but i beleive projector screens absorb it or stop it throwing light around as much
Very valid question. To quote TMCicuurd12b42 below, "I certainly don't recommend painting the wall even with the "proper" paint. Every imperfection in your wall will eventually show, the drywall joints, the stud bumps, that spot you did not paint properly... A framed piece of proper fabric is the better option." They're right. Most walls have a texture of some sort, which gets annoying to watch. Even if your wall is perfectly flat, it likely has or will develop imperfections. Stretched fabric is superior in that regard. Additionally, the material of the fabric is made specifically for showing the best picture possible. Your wall is not.
Pretty informative video. Thanks for sharing. Have a question, you are calculating the top and bottom at full width and sides and support at full height - width of top and bottom. But when you projecting the screen in the end, i see the image being projected inside the frame. How is that possible? did you reduce the screen size. Please help.
The finished size was just a bit bigger than the actual projection area, but it didn't need to be. If the top and bottom piece are exactly as wide as the projection, and the vertical pieces are exactly as tall as the projection minus the 7" or so for the top and bottom boards, it should work out perfectly. It's not a bad idea to add a couple of inches all around for wiggle room or a black matte border.
What I like about your videos is you tell everyone what tools your using and what they cost.
never start on a corner. always start in the middle and do about a foot wide section. then do the opposing side pulling it tight. do the sides the same way and then keep rotating around doing the opposing sides. im sure yours came out fine, but starting in a corner can and usually does lead to wrinkles and or bunched up material at the end. have to to it like an engine block rotating and opposing sides is the best bet. as for the grey screen, you are correct. the problem with projectors in a lit room is that the light in the room washes out the dark colors. by having a grey screen, your helping the dark colors along. and theres no real sacrifice on the light colors in a dark room. kind of like priming a wall grey before painting it black or red. nice work.
Good tips. Thanks, Eric!
DIY Nils can you paint that screen material?
Craig, yes. They sell paint that acts as screen material at home depot. you just have to make sure your wall is nice and even
I was about to say same. You start at middle, do opposite side. Keep the tension and keep going.
In Seattle we have Tool Libraries. ..lending tool library for $20 or $30 a year. The tools are donated by that areas Resident's, or asked for donations, etc, etc
The yearly fees are used to pay for someone to be there during certain posted hours (online). And/or volunteers help with hours. And if a big enough group they will use fees to pay for a qualified expert carpenter to be on hand to help explain tool usage and/or project usage and needs -:) Also secure storage of said tools.
I have stretched a stack of canvas for painting on same principle of what you have made, one thing i always do is start stapling fro the middle on all four sides this way you can pull out any kinks or loose spots . Works for me every time.
I used your 2 screw method to hang the frame(without screen on yet) and added additional "french cleat" support between the 2 middle supports. Was easier to get it level with it already leveled on screws. Thanks for your video. I see is has helped quite a few people over the years as it did me.
I built one back years ago and still use it to this day. I followed the same steps as your video but used counter top laminate instead of the screen. It's a bit more stable and easier to clean. I believe it was the Wilsonart Fashion Grey. I also built a frame and wrapped it in velvet to give a nice black edge in case I ever had overflow.
this is a great video! im moving and debating between a projector and 75 in.... im going to go 60-65 and make one of these!!! your a live saver my friend movie night will never be the same!!!
Thanks, Tory! I fully agree - movie night with a huge projected image like this is fantastic. We get way more use out of our basement than I think we otherwise would because it's a great setup.
Carl's also sells a black velvet tape in 2"-4" thicknesses that makes a great high contrast border and allows you a little wiggle room in the event that you have some unevenness (where you'd need to use the keystone function) and want to blow up the image a bit to take up the whole screen.
I’m so glad I watched this. A different video had a really complicated system for hanging the screen that almost derailed me from the project. This looks like the way to go. Thanks for the simple explanation!
I just bought a $100 pull down 100 inch screen from Amazon.ca. Looks great, and it's nice that you can pull it down part way for 2.40 movies, so there are no black bars. Plus it's in front of my TV, so it's nice to have it roll up for TV watching.
Black Felt on the outer frame itself, can "hide" any light bleed over, and also adds a nice touch to the frame (in most environments)
I love the simple install. I suggest you might usa french cleat made from a 1 x 4 and back light it leds. Awsome project
Nice job! I built one using the same design with a 2:35 aspect ~130" screen I also wanted to matte the edges so I used some wide hook/loop Velcro tape (just the smooth felt side) and stuck that around the edge of the frame. Looks really nice. Well done!
First, great video. Planning to get a projector for a basement home theater. Looking for a good screen design. Second, I'm amazed by how many people don't have tools based on their comments. Seems like all you NEED is a saw, a drill, a screwdriver, and a staple gun. Do't most guys have these in their garage? Third, is Carl's still in business? All of their items show "not available".
I guess youtubes new algorithm is working alright. Beautiful video! Glad I found this channel.
From an upholsterers frame of mind (pun intended), you should staple in the very center of every board, and then start working your stretch from center out on both top and bottom, and then finally the sides, same manner, center out. This method of applying fabric to any frame almost always guarantees that there will be no wrinkles or unintended pleating, especially if you are not working with stretch friendly fabric like you've shown.
I'm not entirely sure why I watched this: I don't have a projector and don't need a screen, but you did a great job showing the process. Well done - my only tip would be to stretch the screen like you would a canvas over stretchers -- it'll help make sure things start off and STAY tight for many years. :)
Love this.. have you done a video on how to DYI a seating system if you have two to three layers of seats?
Great video, going to try this myself this weekend..
Amazing channel bro, keep it up!
Awesome project! Very simple and profetional looking! Thank you for sharing!
I went to the fabric store and bought Curtain backer (blackout) for $4.19/yd. which works really well also.
If you cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom side of the top rail of the screen frame, you could hang it like a french cleat. It would probably be more secure than resting it on the head of two screws.
Great idea!
Screws are a bit getto
@@chrisdechristophe Just make your own video this is your second post of criticism.
looks great I'll be sure to check that screen company. You could also use a biscuit cutter and dados on the joints, that would keep them perfectly flush and add some strength.
Wow, just Wow, i dont think id ever go back to a television after owning the Optoma HD131XE, such beautiful vivid colours, versatility and huge screen size, also no worry ever of screen burn, going back to a tv would be silly, (OLED Sucks) however, convincing the wife to buy one is always hard work. And yes, 50% black to 50% white mix is the ultimate colour for projector screens, this is why CRT televisions had a grey crt
This is an AWESOME video. My screen would be 9-10 Feet by 250-300 Inches in width.
add a black felt border to that and you're all set! looks great
Man this is awesome. That looks great.
I found one for 40 bucks on Amazon; saved me a lot of time and money
What are the staple pins size
Awesome project man!
Love The Drill With Flashlight 👍🏻
loved it...very cost effective Nils!
What about the black out tape for the edge
I've just been looking into doing that. I like the idea of just using gaffer tape for this, since it would be a really easy addition.
DIY Nils use the proper black out tape as it's a velvet finish and absorbs any reflective light ,really does make a big difference to overall finish
David Smith
can you explain what black out tape is?
black out tape is the black velvet boarder that runs round the edge of your screen it cleans it up and gives your projection area a clean focused edge and traps any over spill of light
just check my video out on you tube of my 1080st you'll see what I mean
I use the wall in my room which is a grayish white color and super fine grain paint... Works great, but I enjoyed the video....
That was pretty awesome! Thanks for the tutorial, man! Keep 'em comin!
any chance you have a video on how to build the unit that is around it. That what drew my attention in the first place
Unfortunately I did not film my build of the shelving units but I love how they turned out. I may be doing some other built-ins in my house in the not too distant future and will be filming them if I do. Stay tuned!
Excellent video Nils. After hanging the screen I noticed that the measurements you took were the dimensions of the inside of the 1 x 4 frame. Which is nice because it leaves a boarder. So to finish it off, will you ultimately lay 4" strips of black felt over the edges? I understand that a black board will absorb the light and make for a crisper picture toward the edges.
On my buddy's screen we built it larger than we needed so he could add a border to it, like a black felt border border for absorbing light. When I built mine, I made it as close to the edge as I could, like you see in the beginning of the video, since I didn't plan on adding the border to it. I may change that later but I wasn't sure how much space I'd have to work with. Adding the light absorbing border helps your eyes take in all the contrast of the screen portion, so it is a good idea. Thanks for watching!
I think it was awesome. such a great job.
Thanks!
I highly recommend getting the sample pack from this brand of screen material, it's 8.5x11 sections of all their options that you can use to compare what each looks like.
What kind of fabric is being used here for the screen? Does it sag under its own weight over time/because of temp differences through the year?
This a really great video. Now do a rear projection screen please.
when building the frame glue the unions for a much stronger frame, in the end is only a couple of dlls for the wood glue and it makes it much stronger, clean the runs with a damped cloth at building time...
Keep doing these videos! Awesome work! Good knowledge. Thank you. Single mom here on diy tasks.
Any tips on doing something like this but a portable version for outdoor viewing that can be collapsed down to take with you?
I would suggest that for a crisp edge to the image, it would be better to put some "masking" around the edges. To achieve this, I'd actually create two frames, the inner one that you created here today, and an outer frame which is just the outside edges. The outside frame (which would sit proud of the rear frame) would be wrapped in a non light reflective black velvet like material. This would give a lovely clean edge to the images and also hide any unsightly edges on the screen material.
Hi Nils, after watching your video planning to build the projector screen myself, explained in-detail. I got the same "FlexiGray Projector Screen Material", 145 Inch. Can you please share the Cut measurements for 1X4
Hi, Mohamed. On mine the vertical 1x4s measure 63” long and the horizontals are 123”. The horizontals run the full length while the verticals are sandwiched between the horizontals.
@@LRN2DIY Thank you for the Quick reply
how about borders? I have bought some black boarder tape, but I am unsure how to apply it so I ensure it gets straight, and not get crooked or anything like that...
is that a pro sensor stud finder 710 Franklin or what kind is that? seems like it makes life a little easier instead of the beep stud finder
I’m doing the same sit up as you what size screen material did you get from Carl’s
Good job on this built. Can u do a video on projector $200 for best native 1080p? Not too many 4K movies , so why not choose the best native 1080p?
i was almost did this myself. i was going to go with the same carl gray screen. but amazon has the 120inch motorized one for just $100 bucks. since i have a tv behind it, it made send to go motorized. but when i own a home and have an actual theater room ill want to go this route.
0:05 how many inch is that?
That's my screen at home and is about 148".
Very easy steps. Thank you guys 👍
Is the frame of the screen simply sitting on top of the screw heads or is there some sort of attachment? If it's on the screws, is this secure enough? Obviously most of the time this just sits on the wall but what if there are children around or somebody knocks it?
Can I paint my green projector screen black so it becomes grey-ish color in order to have a better picture?
Awesome man! 👍🏻👍🏻
Can I get the exact measurements on these, like the length of each piece
Reccommendations for a solid stud finder?
if you want even cheaper, Carls blackout cloth (white) works great. A roll long enough to make a 110" screen was about 30$ on amazon.... then probably 10$ for the wood and L brackets from home depot.
Would it be possible to hide the borders caused by the wood behind the screen? Also what stud finder is that? Thanks!
I'm not sure I understand the question because the borders are all behind the screen - the screen material is all you see. The stud finder is one available at Costco: www.costco.com/Precision-Sensors-Professional-Stud-Finder----------.product.100323842.html. You can buy it on Amazon but they're $50 compared to $30 at Costco.
I guess the projected image is smaller than the physical screen which made me think it was the wood showing thru (around the 5:11 mark). Good to hear to was wrong. Thanks!
please advise what's the best led projector under 250 having around 3 to 4000 lumen thanks .oh I enjoyed your video thanks
Nice... I'm doing this for my kids play room...
any tips for securing the screen onto the wall other than having the frame sit on the bit of screw that you left sticking out?
+StevenFlores just suggested doing a french cleat on it, which is a terrific idea. A bit more work but it'd do a great job. If you're not familiar with french cleats, a quick google search will show you exactly what it is.
Looks dope!
That's really awesome!
Great Video 🤗👍
What stud finder is that?
So what was the diagonal dimensions of your screen?
I believe my friend's screen was about the same size as my screen, which was 142" diagonally.
@@LRN2DIY That's huge.
What were the lengths of the pieces you cut
So here’s a question not to second-guess you guys or anything but is there a reason why you didn’t just buy the projector paint and tape off and paint out a 16:9 rectangle on the wall? That’s what my brother did and there was less hassle and it looks pretty good because it’s seamless.
Can someone please tell me what kind of wood would be best
That's really cool!
What type of projector is that your friend has because I see when you walked across it didn't show your shadow. I would love that projector!!!
It's an Optoma short throw. Links are in the description. Yeah - short throw technology is pretty amazing.
brother can u tell me plz what kind of tools I mean u r using some power tools to build it can u tell me that product name
Do you have a video for the cabinets next to the screen you show in the beginning?
I don't, unfortunately, because I wasn't sure how they'd come out and it was my first crack at it, but I'll be building some cabinets for the basement kitchenette at some point and will be sure to make a video of those. For what it's worthy, my Instagram account has pictures of the cabinets as I was building them. instagram.com/diynils/
What's the name of the staple gun that ur using
I have a question more about the projectors... Given that the jump from a 720p and the lowest priced 1080p ones, should I just stick to a 720p for my 1st projector/ budget build?
have you tried a black screen protector?
I've seen so many videos about black screen projector, it's awesome.
if you have any ideas about it with me in new what do you think?
Nils, have you tried or seen Carl's Flexiwhite? How would you compare and, um..., contrast these two options (flexiwhite/flexigray)?
Hey Nathan. I haven't seen it so I can't say for sure but when I talked to my buddy and then read up on the gray vs white, I can see why the gray is advantageous in non-pitch-black situations. The gray gets you part of the way there toward a higher contrast image (darker colors are assisted by not starting from a white background) while the lighter colors are still able to show up bright and strong. In other words, there's no down side with the gray, only an upside. That's why I went with the gray but, like I said, I haven't compared them myself and I doubt it'd be a dramatic difference.
The gray certainly sounds interesting, I'll have to wait until I find someone who has one. It seems that gray would only have the same effect as dimming the projector if the room is very dark--hence the idea that it comes into greater use in ambient lit rooms. But I wonder how much ambient light it takes to render the gray more effective; I have a dark basement theater room but the lit screen itself causes considerable ambient light, even at 500 lumens from the projector, because the screen fits just between the two side walls. I haven't hung black fabric on them (yet).
Makes sense. Let us know if you get a chance to try out the gray! So far so good for my setup, but we often have some ambient light, which is certainly a factor.
What budget projectors do you recommend that are descent enough ?
can this screen good for roll-up?
I'd love to do this but carl ain't delivering to the UK 😔
i agree that it doesnt look any better but having a optima projector i use all the time im also aware that video of a projection never shows the true quality ot brightness. im pretty sure it makes a big difference because white was reflect alot of the light but i beleive projector screens absorb it or stop it throwing light around as much
That's amazing I wish I could what you do. Keep up the good work !!!!!
Nice assembly, but as a recommendation, a spline/channel lock system is much easier than stapling and does less damage to material.
I use the wall £0 dollars 😀
Spiderfly me too, no creases either 😅😅
Spiderfly seriously
Wiley T
GD8R ONE .
Use a white sheet and rear projection works well actually
I used a white blackout shade for my theater room. whole setup for the projecter, the screen, and the mount costed about 150 bucks😀😀
Thank you for the frame Directions, I finally found a very well made tutorial. Would it be different material for 4K?
Glad you liked it, Raquel. No - the material should work for any resolution just fine!
honest question. Why do you need the screen when the wall is good enough? Or do the colors somewhat change?
Very valid question. To quote TMCicuurd12b42 below, "I certainly don't recommend painting the wall even with the "proper" paint. Every imperfection in your wall will eventually show, the drywall joints, the stud bumps, that spot you did not paint properly... A framed piece of proper fabric is the better option."
They're right. Most walls have a texture of some sort, which gets annoying to watch. Even if your wall is perfectly flat, it likely has or will develop imperfections. Stretched fabric is superior in that regard. Additionally, the material of the fabric is made specifically for showing the best picture possible. Your wall is not.
DIY Nils thanks! That was helpful.
Pretty informative video. Thanks for sharing. Have a question, you are calculating the top and bottom at full width and sides and support at full height - width of top and bottom. But when you projecting the screen in the end, i see the image being projected inside the frame. How is that possible? did you reduce the screen size. Please help.
The finished size was just a bit bigger than the actual projection area, but it didn't need to be. If the top and bottom piece are exactly as wide as the projection, and the vertical pieces are exactly as tall as the projection minus the 7" or so for the top and bottom boards, it should work out perfectly. It's not a bad idea to add a couple of inches all around for wiggle room or a black matte border.
awesome thank you.. BTW what kind of projector do you have if you don't mind me asking
Both of the ones in this video are Optomas. The links are in the descriptions. Thanks for watching!
RYKZ 78 benq 1080st is a great budget projector
Awesome, will try this! 👍🏼
Super video, thanks
great video. thank you for sharing
Carl's also sells the ALR ambient light rejection material which works much better.
Could you tell me the dimensions of the frame you built.. I'm getting the 98 inch screen flexi gray as well and the 143x Optoma lol
What stud finder are u using?
bonjour la toile vous l avez trouver ou ? merci un petit lien
Lol I should've read the title better.
Charvel S same
Charvel S Me too
I thought I was going to learn how to build a whole home theater for my self including the projector :(
$100 is still sick for a large projector screen like that!
or just get some projector screen paint.
Around $88 (maybe less if your thrifty) for a can and save some scratch and no lumber to buy or cut.