Definitely gonna have to do this on my V3. Rest is moved as far left as possible and still creates a very slight right tear with bare shafts. Fletchings correct it for the most part but with the rest all the way over I have ran out of room for my sight to move over as well and can't get zeroed. Have my press and top hat set on the way from Lancaster Archery.
How tight do you make the axle bolt? It's alright to remove the cam under pressure on the press? LCA sent a warning in my box saying not to do this but quite a few guys on youtube seem to do this as normal practice. Thanks.
Do the top hat spacers have to match in the top and bottom cams? In other words, if the bottom cam has a skinny top hat on the left and a thick on the right, do the top hats on the upper cam have to match?
Would this method be used if i wanted to fix cam lean ? Im somewhat new bow tuning and ive tuned my Hoyt easily cause of the yolks. This top had system is new to me.
So are those top hats sold separately?....I was inform you could swap the original top hats around. This leads to a follow up, how do you know the right combination for size of top hats? Great video by the way!
The top hats are sold in a top hat kit. They have bands around them in 3 places: top, middle, and bottom. Those bands make a pair. if the bands are in the middle of the top hat shaft, one will have one ring and its counterpart will have two bands. This goes for the top hats that have the bands at the top and bottom of the shaft as well. When you take any pair and press the "shim" part of the top hat together and measure the total thickness, all pairs (3) will end up with the same total thickness. By giving you 3 pairs, Mathews allows you to finely move that cam from extreme left to extreme right in the smallest of increments. As far as your original statement.. yes you can exchange your original top hats to opposite sides and move the cams a bit. If that doesn't quite do it though, you may need the other ones offered in the kit. Lancaster sells the kit by the way. Good luck and as always, thanks for subscribing.
I have a right hand Triax. Getting a left tear. It has the smaller spacer on the left and larger on the right both top and bottom. Not the real thin and wide ones you showed. Moved rest to the right but does not seam to help. Should I swap top hats?
OK guys! So the number one question for me is, would be why would you have to do this? Wouldn’t this just come from Mathews factory With this already done. I shoot a Mathews Triax right now And it shoots perfect bullet holes (after fine tuning) Without messing with the top hats. I’ve been shooting archery and bow hunting for many years. I’ve never heard of this nor have I ever had a problem Paper tuning. I’m so confused
You can set the string/power stroke to work perfect with your arrows dynamic spine. Unless you build your arrows with a cut and trim method, you may have to mess with the top hats. You can have 3 different kinds of arrows and have to kinds shoot perfect holes but the third requires a different top hat setup. This is just really changing the lateral nock travel or demand on the arrow. Also, not every archer torques the bow the exact same so the top hats can be a great option to dial in a poor shooting arrow. The physics behind why this is needed is pretty damn deep but we will attempt to explain it with illustrations in the near future.
Well...I had my shop put on a new string and now my bow is tearing way tail-right, and I have to adjust my rest to almost full travel to fix it. I'm not sure what happened, but that's an example of needing to change top-hat. I'm going to have them move my cams a bit right so I don't have some and extreme adjustment on my rest.
That’s a great question. The engineers recommend moving the rest as a last resort. The bows are designed to push the arrow through the recommended center shot of the bow (in this case 13/16th off the riser). In the case of the top hats, you should be able to get it really close; a perfect or almost a perfect bareshaft bullet hole. THEN, you can fine tune with a slight left/right adjustment of the rest. Most higher end bow techs don’t like to go more than 1/16” off the recommended centershot. That being said, I’ve worked on bows in which there weren’t any options left on the table and it was either change the dynamic spine of the arrow or move the arrow rest drastically. Depending on the situation, you have to do what you have to do. Hope this helped.
Buy a PSE...shoot bullet holes with minut adjustments... they put different weight limbs opposite of each other and with the New Yoke System it's a snap 2 tune a bow... Bows with yolks were easy to tune... That was years ago this is dinosaur crap.. come on Matthew step up to the pump
my 2020 PSE came from the factory with the wrong limb deflection order. I did every possible shim combination, moved the rest way out of center shot, nothing worked. finally called PSE, they had me read off the limb deflections and had me swap the bottom 2 limbs, after that I was golden but damn that was a pain in the ass. I was seriously starting to doubt my purchase but its nice to know that all I needed was a small change. I learned a lot from that process and boy does that bow draw and shoot like silk.
Definitely gonna have to do this on my V3. Rest is moved as far left as possible and still creates a very slight right tear with bare shafts. Fletchings correct it for the most part but with the rest all the way over I have ran out of room for my sight to move over as well and can't get zeroed. Have my press and top hat set on the way from Lancaster Archery.
Thanks for this video! It's a godsend
Daniel Crowe glad it helped you. Check out that new app that we came out with also. The Bow Shop Bible. Has a ton of great info in it.
Glad to hear it helped. Check out our app the Bow Shop Bible for an unbelievable collection of resources and tutorials.
Thanks for a nice video. I have the change out just the bottom cam on my Halon 6 and this video really showed me how the get the cam out.
Glad to hear it helped. Check out our app the Bow Shop Bible for an unbelievable collection of resources and tutorials.
How tight do you make the axle bolt? It's alright to remove the cam under pressure on the press? LCA sent a warning in my box saying not to do this but quite a few guys on youtube seem to do this as normal practice. Thanks.
Seems so much easier to move the top cam on the Bowtech system....
Do the top hat spacers have to match in the top and bottom cams? In other words, if the bottom cam has a skinny top hat on the left and a thick on the right, do the top hats on the upper cam have to match?
We think it’s a good practice to match them.
Would this method be used if i wanted to fix cam lean ? Im somewhat new bow tuning and ive tuned my Hoyt easily cause of the yolks. This top had system is new to me.
While it’s ideal to have the cams vertical, arrow flight should dictate final cam orientation. Let your paper tears tell you what to do with the cams.
Check out our app the Bow Shop Bible for an unbelievable collection of resources and tutorials.
Would you do the same with a right hand bow and those right tears?
Yes. Shim towards the tear (fletchings part of the rip)
Check out our app the Bow Shop Bible for an unbelievable collection of resources and tutorials.
Did you change topmast on both cams?
Yes
So are those top hats sold separately?....I was inform you could swap the original top hats around. This leads to a follow up, how do you know the right combination for size of top hats? Great video by the way!
The top hats are sold in a top hat kit. They have bands around them in 3 places: top, middle, and bottom. Those bands make a pair. if the bands are in the middle of the top hat shaft, one will have one ring and its counterpart will have two bands. This goes for the top hats that have the bands at the top and bottom of the shaft as well. When you take any pair and press the "shim" part of the top hat together and measure the total thickness, all pairs (3) will end up with the same total thickness. By giving you 3 pairs, Mathews allows you to finely move that cam from extreme left to extreme right in the smallest of increments.
As far as your original statement.. yes you can exchange your original top hats to opposite sides and move the cams a bit. If that doesn't quite do it though, you may need the other ones offered in the kit. Lancaster sells the kit by the way. Good luck and as always, thanks for subscribing.
@@Shootingtimearchery
Make senses! Appreciate the detail info. Your videos by far are the best on TH-cam!
I have a right hand Triax. Getting a left tear. It has the smaller spacer on the left and larger on the right both top and bottom. Not the real thin and wide ones you showed. Moved rest to the right but does not seam to help. Should I swap top hats?
@@michaelj.rovnyak7620 you need a tophat kit if you already have the smaller tophat on the left side of the cam and you're getting a left tear.
never any top hats over .75
OK guys!
So the number one question for me is, would be why would you have to do this? Wouldn’t this just come from Mathews factory With this already done. I shoot a Mathews Triax right now And it shoots perfect bullet holes (after fine tuning) Without messing with the top hats.
I’ve been shooting archery and bow hunting for many years.
I’ve never heard of this nor have I ever had a problem Paper tuning.
I’m so confused
You can set the string/power stroke to work perfect with your arrows dynamic spine. Unless you build your arrows with a cut and trim method, you may have to mess with the top hats.
You can have 3 different kinds of arrows and have to kinds shoot perfect holes but the third requires a different top hat setup. This is just really changing the lateral nock travel or demand on the arrow.
Also, not every archer torques the bow the exact same so the top hats can be a great option to dial in a poor shooting arrow.
The physics behind why this is needed is pretty damn deep but we will attempt to explain it with illustrations in the near future.
shootingtime.com
Thanks buddy
Check out our app the Bow Shop Bible for an unbelievable collection of resources and tutorials.
Well...I had my shop put on a new string and now my bow is tearing way tail-right, and I have to adjust my rest to almost full travel to fix it. I'm not sure what happened, but that's an example of needing to change top-hat. I'm going to have them move my cams a bit right so I don't have some and extreme adjustment on my rest.
Wouldn't it be easier to just move your arrow rest
That’s a great question. The engineers recommend moving the rest as a last resort. The bows are designed to push the arrow through the recommended center shot of the bow (in this case 13/16th off the riser).
In the case of the top hats, you should be able to get it really close; a perfect or almost a perfect bareshaft bullet hole. THEN, you can fine tune with a slight left/right adjustment of the rest. Most higher end bow techs don’t like to go more than 1/16” off the recommended centershot.
That being said, I’ve worked on bows in which there weren’t any options left on the table and it was either change the dynamic spine of the arrow or move the arrow rest drastically. Depending on the situation, you have to do what you have to do. Hope this helped.
Buy a PSE...shoot bullet holes with minut adjustments... they put different weight limbs opposite of each other and with the New Yoke System it's a snap 2 tune a bow...
Bows with yolks were easy to tune...
That was years ago this is dinosaur crap.. come on Matthew step up to the pump
my 2020 PSE came from the factory with the wrong limb deflection order. I did every possible shim combination, moved the rest way out of center shot, nothing worked. finally called PSE, they had me read off the limb deflections and had me swap the bottom 2 limbs, after that I was golden but damn that was a pain in the ass. I was seriously starting to doubt my purchase but its nice to know that all I needed was a small change. I learned a lot from that process and boy does that bow draw and shoot like silk.