Be sure to check the fit of the floor pan before welding in the top piece of the torque box. Mine is way out? About the same amount I cut off the front part of the rail. Good luck.
How important is the jig? Right now my mustang is on jack stands along the jack rails under the doors. Will the fenders and floor pan support the rear end of the car when I remove the rusted out frame rails? The rails where delivered today and I just got done cutting out the rusted through floor pans in the trunk and backseat. I’m wondering if I should brace the bumper so the rear end doesn’t drop when I cut out the old frame rails.
What’s important is getting the rail back where it was. Some guys will make a jig out of wood. Take lots of measurements and ensure every axis of the car and the rail go back to where they were. The suspension mounting points are the most important and this tends to be what most prioritize
@@StrokersGarage Since there’s so much play where the axle mounts to the leaf springs is it really that important? I’m just wondering because I’m not looking for a rust free perfectly original car I just want the thing to be sturdy. Couldn’t I just adjust with the axle mounts to get the drive train aligned? I made sure to align both frame rails with each other but the actual distance I mounted them might be half an inch farther back towards the rear end of the car. I’m more concerned about interference issues from components mounted or close to the frame rails after I remount everything. I just couldn’t see how anything could interfere even if the rails are moved inches away from they’re original position, but I’m probably missing something. I could see it impacting suspension geometry a little bit but for mounting components I don’t know if anything would really come in contact or be too far out of adjustment to cause issues.
@@frankjackson2439 I would try my best to get the leaf spring mounting points back to their original locations. You will have a much easier time with squareness. Not sure how much play you will get. Got pics?
I'll make you a bet with the rust I'm looking at that was an F code car thank goodness I live in California and minor R codes and I don't have near the rust you guys do you have your hands full but I liked your video at least you're bringing it back to life
Hi. I was wondering why you could not have just drilled out some of those spot welds from the frame rail side? Could you not get to them from the underside of the car instead of cutting up the floor so much? I am asking as I have to do both frame rails on my 68 C code car.
Dave Brittain this was my option due to how I built the jig plus knowing that I would have been replacing the floor. You certainly can drill all the spot welds and the frame rail should drop out. I would still the spot welds out from above (inside the car) that way you can weld into thicker metal and not fight gravity. Keep in mind you should use a jig to ensure the new rail goes back in place. Hope this helps, if you want to chat more hit me up: strokersgarage@gmail.com
Dave Brittain sure could. I was trying to preserve the crossmember and this was the best way I thought to do it. If you don’t have a floor in place the. You could attempt to drill the welds but I found it easier to not attempt the original spot welds and just weld up the sides where to crossmember (shock mount) meets the frame rail.
I am running into issues fitting rear cross rails on a 65 Convertible. My rear locator side to side is dead on at 43", and the front at 37 7/16 ". When I set up the diagonal to 61 9/16", it put the drivers rail rearward about 1/2" when I used a plum bob on the leaf spring front attachment point (the car was on it's side on a rotiserie). I was wondering if your frame rails were a mirror image of each other. When I made a template of the rail gage hole in relationship to the center line of the leaf spring attachment point for both sides, they are not the same. When I did an overlay of the two templates, the gage hole or locating hole that sets the diagonal dimension was off by about 1/2" from side to side. Also did you use any of the locating holes in the frames, or did you strictly use the functional attachments? Thanks.
Good stuff, thanks for taking the time to make the videos. I am working on a 68 Torino, allot of helpful information!
Great video, I’m having the same issue with the gap at the torque to rocker.
Randie Wells hope the video helps! For me what is most important is located the leaf spring bolt holes in their original locations.
Be sure to check the fit of the floor pan before welding in the top piece of the torque box. Mine is way out? About the same amount I cut off the front part of the rail. Good luck.
These videos are amazing, thanks a lot
How important is the jig? Right now my mustang is on jack stands along the jack rails under the doors. Will the fenders and floor pan support the rear end of the car when I remove the rusted out frame rails? The rails where delivered today and I just got done cutting out the rusted through floor pans in the trunk and backseat. I’m wondering if I should brace the bumper so the rear end doesn’t drop when I cut out the old frame rails.
What’s important is getting the rail back where it was. Some guys will make a jig out of wood. Take lots of measurements and ensure every axis of the car and the rail go back to where they were. The suspension mounting points are the most important and this tends to be what most prioritize
@@StrokersGarage Since there’s so much play where the axle mounts to the leaf springs is it really that important? I’m just wondering because I’m not looking for a rust free perfectly original car I just want the thing to be sturdy. Couldn’t I just adjust with the axle mounts to get the drive train aligned? I made sure to align both frame rails with each other but the actual distance I mounted them might be half an inch farther back towards the rear end of the car. I’m more concerned about interference issues from components mounted or close to the frame rails after I remount everything. I just couldn’t see how anything could interfere even if the rails are moved inches away from they’re original position, but I’m probably missing something. I could see it impacting suspension geometry a little bit but for mounting components I don’t know if anything would really come in contact or be too far out of adjustment to cause issues.
@@frankjackson2439 I would try my best to get the leaf spring mounting points back to their original locations. You will have a much easier time with squareness. Not sure how much play you will get. Got pics?
I'll make you a bet with the rust I'm looking at that was an F code car thank goodness I live in California and minor R codes and I don't have near the rust you guys do you have your hands full but I liked your video at least you're bringing it back to life
Where did you get the Ford Service Manual from?
use some heat when you try to bend it.
Hi. I was wondering why you could not have just drilled out some of those spot welds from the frame rail side? Could you not get to them from the underside of the car instead of cutting up the floor so much? I am asking as I have to do both frame rails on my 68 C code car.
Dave Brittain this was my option due to how I built the jig plus knowing that I would have been replacing the floor. You certainly can drill all the spot welds and the frame rail should drop out. I would still the spot welds out from above (inside the car) that way you can weld into thicker metal and not fight gravity. Keep in mind you should use a jig to ensure the new rail goes back in place. Hope this helps, if you want to chat more hit me up: strokersgarage@gmail.com
@@StrokersGarage I just meant those ones that were really hard to get at.
Dave Brittain are you referring to the ones hidden inside the rail or beneath the seat brace?
@@StrokersGarage Inside the rail. Since you were taking the rail out anyway you could just cut that piece out. Maybe?
Dave Brittain sure could. I was trying to preserve the crossmember and this was the best way I thought to do it. If you don’t have a floor in place the. You could attempt to drill the welds but I found it easier to not attempt the original spot welds and just weld up the sides where to crossmember (shock mount) meets the frame rail.
I am running into issues fitting rear cross rails on a 65 Convertible. My rear locator side to side is dead on at 43", and the front at 37 7/16 ". When I set up the diagonal to 61 9/16", it put the drivers rail rearward about 1/2" when I used a plum bob on the leaf spring front attachment point (the car was on it's side on a rotiserie). I was wondering if your frame rails were a mirror image of each other. When I made a template of the rail gage hole in relationship to the center line of the leaf spring attachment point for both sides, they are not the same. When I did an overlay of the two templates, the gage hole or locating hole that sets the diagonal dimension was off by about 1/2" from side to side. Also did you use any of the locating holes in the frames, or did you strictly use the functional attachments? Thanks.
Brian Jutila send me an email: strokersgarage@gmail.com. Need to send images
Any plans for the jig your useing would like to build something similar
When I built the jig, I built it to the car with all the frame parts where they were supposed to be. Best way to do it!
I’m tearing down a 65. How much do you think it would be to pay someone so do all body work?
R S good question. Would depend what “all the body work” entails.
What are you replacing?