Great video, another reason for converting to kerosene is that in some parts of the world white gas or Coleman fuel is either not easily available or the price is exorbitant. I got into lanterns a couple of yrs ago and not really understanding the difference between kerosene and white gas I bought a few lanterns in Ireland. Traditionally it’s kerosene that was burned in lamps in UK & irl. ( Tilley & bialaddin being the main sellers) however amongst the lanterns I purchased was a Coleman 220F. Coleman fuel is available here but the nearest stockist is a 2hr drive away and then its €13 for a small bottle of I think 750ml. I since bought a Coleman 639 but I would like to bring the 2 mantle 220F back to life.
I just did this on a 220J. Only added the preheat cup, didn't mess with the generator. I was surprised how easy it lit. No smell. Just a bright as coleman fuel.
Great video as always. Very interesting. My thoughts on knowing how to do this is simply to have options in case you are unable to get white gas for some reason.
Awesome video. Now with the price of kerosene and fuel in general, probably easier to buy the cheapest white gas you can get, Ozark, Coleman or whatever other brand is out there.
I was kinda geeking out on Coleman lanters about 5 years ago and had found your channel. I have 3 220s ranging from B to F I beleieve and another one thats mod 70s. Id totally be down to take one of my newer 220s and convert it to kerosene if possible. I do have a 200A that spitting fuel out from the fount where the generator goes but haven't been super into Colemans or had the time. Just took my 7 year old son camping using my Milwaukee m12 lantern and headlamps which worked great but I want him to remember that classic Coleman white gas hiss that soo many associate that nostalgia with. You've kinda resparked my interest to go through my lanterns. Make sure the mantles are good and run em.
Leaking from around the generator is pretty common on kerosene lanterns, less so on white gas. The brass of the generator work hardens and sometimes doesn't make a good seal. You can anneal the generator flare by heating it until it just starts to glow, then dip it in water to cool. Don't get it real hot or it'll distort. Since a 200A is pretty common you could just get a new generator too.
Perfect timing! I’ve been waiting for this! I recently inherited a Coleman 288A700 lantern from my late father. I already have 2 other Coleman lanterns that run on the white gas so I’m hoping to convert the 288 to kerosene. I’m hoping this guide will enable me to be successful. Thanks! 👍🏻 One question: Is it more desirable to change the generator to the kerosene generator and will it simply drop-in fit?
There isn't a "kerosene generator" for a 288 that I know of and certainly not one for a 220/228. The kerosene lantern generators are much fatter and would need a different base than a white gas generator.
Maybe someone else has mentioned this, I haven’t read all the comments: a fellow whose name is Ron Brown has a number of little books about lanterns. His book on kerosene pressure lanterns has a section on kerosene conversions. It covers a number of Coleman fuel to kerosene conversions, including those models that you have done videos on, as well as the 275, 236, 635, and the 335. The book itself is also quite interesting. Cheers
Mostly I agree but if you'd stumbled upon a supply of kerosene for cheap it might make sense. I also feel better about using kero in the house, it's just a little safer.
This is the first time I've disagreed with you but only because of my own personal experience. This not a reflection on you or your experience. The Coleman 231 was a double mantle kerosene lantern. Essentially is was a kerosene 220. From the factory it came with a straight pickup and a #6 (200A) orifice tip on the gen. When trying to do my own conversion I would get lots of over flame when using a V (220) orifice. When using an air circuit pickup I got a lot of pulsating with either tip. It was only after putting a straight pickup and a #6 tip and 200 pricker that I was able to achieve peak burn. The lantern is brighter than my standard 220s. If you do find that your lantern runs better on a #6 tip you must also install the 200 gen pricker as well. A 220 pricker will damage the #6 tip as the wire is to big.
I forgot about the pricker wire, good think I didn't run the cleaner. Did you use a later lantern with the flying saucer mixing chamber? I think those are better suited for an odor free conversion.
@@LanternLabs No Sir. Mine is a 1972 220F with the new style cage but the old style brass mixer on a steel air tube with steel burners. I've been trying to understand this problem for a while now. If you look at an old 235 lantern or a 129 lamp they both used a V tip. But any time I try to use a V tip it overburns badly. The only way I can make my 220 run nice and smooth is with a straight pickup and a #6 tip and pricker. Now I want to tear it apart and put an air circuit pickup and a V tip back on the gen and see what happens.
This guy is spot-on. I used the entire 200A generator. The 200a tip is .006 of an inch and the 220F is .008 of an inch. My 228F mantles burned yellow until I fixed the leak in the burner tube by tightening it one full turn into the tank. (I rebuilt it and thought it was tight enough. Built a vice and presto...1 more turn) Runs like a champion.....just as bright as white gas.
@@brhino1017 Side, Side note. The 286/288 generator uses the exact same orifice size (. 007) as the 200A even though the 2 gens are not interchangeable. The 214 uses the same size as the 201. When I run my 286 or 214 I use a 300 to 400 candle power mantle rather than the little 21, Coleman recommends. I wish they still made the 99 mantle. It was the perfect 300cp mantle and will kick but on a 200, 286, or 214!
It would have been good science if you put it back to original but with pre-heat cup and tried it again with Coleman Fuel Generator just to confirm it was no longer smelly.
I just bought an old 220 and it works pretty well but it wouldn’t shut all the way off, instead of releasing the pressure from the tank to shut it down, I just let it burn all night. Does anyone know what part I need to replace or is it something I can adjust? Thanks for any advice.
If you pull the valve shaft from the valve body you will see that the shaft comes to a point. It sounds like you may have a bur on the tip of the point that's not allowing the shaft to seat well. You can take a small file and gently file the bur off so that you have a nice point again. Go ahead and order a new valve packing from Old Coleman Part as most likely the one in the valve will be destroyed when you pull the valve apart. Even if it isn't it's good insurance to replace it while you have everything apart. Be sure you pay attention to the specific way each ring on the valve shaft comes off so that it all goes back together correctly.
I think Joshua has it. Some gorilla honks down on the valve and puts a ring in the seat. I've had good luck chucking the valve stem into the drill and using a file and then sand paper to clean the ring off. Be sure to keep the same angle so it'll seat well.
Great video, another reason for converting to kerosene is that in some parts of the world white gas or Coleman fuel is either not easily available or the price is exorbitant. I got into lanterns a couple of yrs ago and not really understanding the difference between kerosene and white gas I bought a few lanterns in Ireland. Traditionally it’s kerosene that was burned in lamps in UK & irl. ( Tilley & bialaddin being the main sellers) however amongst the lanterns I purchased was a Coleman 220F. Coleman fuel is available here but the nearest stockist is a 2hr drive away and then its €13 for a small bottle of I think 750ml. I since bought a Coleman 639 but I would like to bring the 2 mantle 220F back to life.
Nice to have you posting videos again..
Great video! Thoroughly enjoy the knowledge and history of these lanterns.
Glad you’re back, keep em’ coming!!
Yay I'm glad to see some more great videos and full of knowledge for lanterns
I just did this on a 220J. Only added the preheat cup, didn't mess with the generator. I was surprised how easy it lit. No smell. Just a bright as coleman fuel.
Good video as always!!!
Thanks Curt.
Great video as always. Very interesting. My thoughts on knowing how to do this is simply to have options in case you are unable to get white gas for some reason.
Awesome video. Now with the price of kerosene and fuel in general, probably easier to buy the cheapest white gas you can get, Ozark, Coleman or whatever other brand is out there.
I was kinda geeking out on Coleman lanters about 5 years ago and had found your channel.
I have 3 220s ranging from B to F I beleieve and another one thats mod 70s.
Id totally be down to take one of my newer 220s and convert it to kerosene if possible.
I do have a 200A that spitting fuel out from the fount where the generator goes but haven't been super into Colemans or had the time. Just took my 7 year old son camping using my Milwaukee m12 lantern and headlamps which worked great but I want him to remember that classic Coleman white gas hiss that soo many associate that nostalgia with.
You've kinda resparked my interest to go through my lanterns. Make sure the mantles are good and run em.
Leaking from around the generator is pretty common on kerosene lanterns, less so on white gas. The brass of the generator work hardens and sometimes doesn't make a good seal. You can anneal the generator flare by heating it until it just starts to glow, then dip it in water to cool. Don't get it real hot or it'll distort.
Since a 200A is pretty common you could just get a new generator too.
I thought this was a good video, thank you for posting this! Having Options is ALWAYS a good thing.
I can't wait to see part deux!!
Part 2? Why would there be a part 2? ;)
Perfect timing! I’ve been waiting for this! I recently inherited a Coleman 288A700 lantern from my late father. I already have 2 other Coleman lanterns that run on the white gas so I’m hoping to convert the 288 to kerosene. I’m hoping this guide will enable me to be successful. Thanks! 👍🏻
One question: Is it more desirable to change the generator to the kerosene generator and will it simply drop-in fit?
There isn't a "kerosene generator" for a 288 that I know of and certainly not one for a 220/228. The kerosene lantern generators are much fatter and would need a different base than a white gas generator.
A 214 generator will drop in a 288
Maybe someone else has mentioned this, I haven’t read all the comments: a fellow whose name is Ron Brown has a number of little books about lanterns. His book on kerosene pressure lanterns has a section on kerosene conversions. It covers a number of Coleman fuel to kerosene conversions, including those models that you have done videos on, as well as the 275, 236, 635, and the 335. The book itself is also quite interesting. Cheers
Tats interesting,I’d like to get one of them. Thanks.
As usual z great video Kurt, I see a Tilley
That thing has been kicking my butt...
So if the 220 works well stock, why does anyone swap parts? Seems like a no brainer to me to keep stock. If it’s not broke, why fix it.
Mostly I agree but if you'd stumbled upon a supply of kerosene for cheap it might make sense. I also feel better about using kero in the house, it's just a little safer.
Awesome, kero rules!
This is the first time I've disagreed with you but only because of my own personal experience. This not a reflection on you or your experience. The Coleman 231 was a double mantle kerosene lantern. Essentially is was a kerosene 220. From the factory it came with a straight pickup and a #6 (200A) orifice tip on the gen. When trying to do my own conversion I would get lots of over flame when using a V (220) orifice. When using an air circuit pickup I got a lot of pulsating with either tip. It was only after putting a straight pickup and a #6 tip and 200 pricker that I was able to achieve peak burn. The lantern is brighter than my standard 220s. If you do find that your lantern runs better on a #6 tip you must also install the 200 gen pricker as well. A 220 pricker will damage the #6 tip as the wire is to big.
I forgot about the pricker wire, good think I didn't run the cleaner.
Did you use a later lantern with the flying saucer mixing chamber? I think those are better suited for an odor free conversion.
@@LanternLabs No Sir. Mine is a 1972 220F with the new style cage but the old style brass mixer on a steel air tube with steel burners. I've been trying to understand this problem for a while now. If you look at an old 235 lantern or a 129 lamp they both used a V tip. But any time I try to use a V tip it overburns badly. The only way I can make my 220 run nice and smooth is with a straight pickup and a #6 tip and pricker. Now I want to tear it apart and put an air circuit pickup and a V tip back on the gen and see what happens.
This guy is spot-on. I used the entire 200A generator. The 200a tip is .006 of an inch and the 220F is .008 of an inch. My 228F mantles burned yellow until I fixed the leak in the burner tube by tightening it one full turn into the tank. (I rebuilt it and thought it was tight enough. Built a vice and presto...1 more turn) Runs like a champion.....just as bright as white gas.
Quick note…200a generator is .07. The 201 genny is .06. But agree on your point… 200a genny for a 220 K conversion.
@@brhino1017 Side, Side note. The 286/288 generator uses the exact same orifice size (. 007) as the 200A even though the 2 gens are not interchangeable. The 214 uses the same size as the 201. When I run my 286 or 214 I use a 300 to 400 candle power mantle rather than the little 21, Coleman recommends. I wish they still made the 99 mantle. It was the perfect 300cp mantle and will kick but on a 200, 286, or 214!
Are you getting a venturi effect from the smaller orifice? Causing it to run richer?
Lantern myth busted great job Kurt
👍
I have the ultimate question. Can you burn kerosene in a dual fuel lantern?
Sure, it'll need to be preheated though. "Dual fuel" is just marketing, they're just regular lanterns, nothing particularly special about them.
@@LanternLabs 1000 thanks
It would have been good science if you put it back to original but with pre-heat cup and tried it again with Coleman Fuel Generator just to confirm it was no longer smelly.
I have, it is not.
@@LanternLabs Great! I should have guessed you would have. Thanks for getting back to me.
What mantels?
Does Kerosene last longer?
I didn't do a before and after test but if you used the smaller gas jet it should last longer since you're passing gas through a smaller orifice.
Should take the filter out of the generator. It's not needed for kerosene, and it will eventually plug up.
I just bought an old 220 and it works pretty well but it wouldn’t shut all the way off, instead of releasing the pressure from the tank to shut it down, I just let it burn all night. Does anyone know what part I need to replace or is it something I can adjust? Thanks for any advice.
If you pull the valve shaft from the valve body you will see that the shaft comes to a point. It sounds like you may have a bur on the tip of the point that's not allowing the shaft to seat well. You can take a small file and gently file the bur off so that you have a nice point again. Go ahead and order a new valve packing from Old Coleman Part as most likely the one in the valve will be destroyed when you pull the valve apart. Even if it isn't it's good insurance to replace it while you have everything apart. Be sure you pay attention to the specific way each ring on the valve shaft comes off so that it all goes back together correctly.
I think Joshua has it. Some gorilla honks down on the valve and puts a ring in the seat. I've had good luck chucking the valve stem into the drill and using a file and then sand paper to clean the ring off. Be sure to keep the same angle so it'll seat well.
@@joshuaharrington6094 thanks guys, I’ll do just that!
Perhaps remove the cardboard packing
annoying 'music'-
I’ve heard worse. I enjoyed it. Not invalidating your opinion, though. Just sharing mine.
I did one in Feb. of '21.
th-cam.com/video/zeeuZ41t9Hs/w-d-xo.html