If the cable is already in the ground, fit the cable to the box and gland it, then mount the box to the wall. That way you have a little leeway for height.
Fixing the box to the wall before attaching the cables creates a potential back injury issue. We have a little camping chair where we connect the cables while sitting with the unit across our knees. Way less bending and awkward angles. Once cables attached, then attach to wall. This allows for any mistakes in cutting the cable too short.
Next time you install an A2 and once you have stripped the cables and are happy with the fitment, pull the armoured cable back out of the A2 and mark out a template from the entry gland cut up to the 3 core ends. Any future A2 installs will be a lot quicker and easier to mark and cut each point using the same template from entry gland upwards before feeding into the A2. Bit of a minor faff the first time, but worth it.
Hey, Jordan, you ordering an electric VAN is simply a fantastic announcement ! Congratulations for your decision ! I'm looking forward, seeing the exciting moment when it's being delivered.
I wish you luck with the T6 LWB 82 mile range when empty van. A few of us tried them out and unless you're city based it's just not got the range, the E-Vivaro would have been a better choice imo. Lovely install but normally we'd dead test the customer supplied cable before fitting the charger - saving a potential wasted day if it has been damaged when buried.
@@artisanelectrics It comes with some nice perks, assisted breaking etc for parking in town but quite often finding a parking spot for a LWB can be a pain. So much so we won't use LWB vans for our city center, so hopefully your parking situation is far better than Little London by Sea.
Crap Sparks..... you could even ask why he use 3phase delta cable on a single phase install, failed to correctly identify conductors (70% coverage of crap or L1, N, E tape) just another shoddy job!
If it was me I would have taken the charger off of the wall, pulled the armoured further through, made it off then put the charger back off and finish the gland! I’m no electrition but always love to find an easier way of doing fiddly tasks like that😂
That is a TPN service head. There is a secondary head and that is for E7 (hence the single control fuse and E7 meters). The main head is TPN then you have that secondary TPN head used for E7. There is TPN MCBs as well fed from the main head. I see this type of setup in this area quite a bit where the incomer is TPN and then a secondary head for E7 using a TPN head just to confuse you. Also as that secondary head is fused back at the substation I would be securing the link (split con or civil duct I cannot tell) that had the SWA hanging off it. Now if you open the top part of the main head you will find three BS88 fuses going off to that TPN panel. This should only be a DNO job though. But that will be the main TPN supply. Hope this helps 🤓.
Not when you read the spec sheet it says upstream protection by type A RCD ? We think they moved the type A function out like other manufacturers are doing.
That stuby ratchet is the best thing in the world. I was working on a rather unique bit of kit on one of the new Royal Navy aircraft carries, and we had to disassemble half the system to get one board out so we could reprogram it, an American chap came over from the OEM with one of those tiny ratchets and popped it out with 2 screws we could never have dreamed of accessing! Made 25 mins to reprogram into 10, most of which was flashing the EEPROM.
Question for you. Does the charging cable have to be fully unwound when you are charging your vehicle ,if you only need 2m of when parked up will the cable left inside the unit get warm.
In Germany, three-phase 11 kW chargers are common. For 22 kW you need the approval of the electricity supplier, for 11 kW you only have to report the installation. That is then 3x 16 amps. A disadvantage is when a car only wants to charge one phase 32 amps and is reduced to 16 amps. That would be only 3600 watts to an 11 kW three phase charging point.
The idea of a power cable with a data cable built-in goes against everything I was taught about running CAT5 cables and not running them closely in parallel with high current power cables. I'm guessing that these combined power and data cables have the appropriate shielding to mitigate this.
@@aaronmdjones in the netherlands. when there needs to be HIGH quality installations the signal cables are run next to high power but in a seperate cable tray. outside also in a seperate tube or flex or whatever. in theory is sounds fine to have high power next to signal cables but practice tells different! so i never never never do that
@@irshicosmos3233 if the cable manufacturer warrants its okay, that seems reason enough to trust them. And let’s be fair, high power AC actually doesn’t interfere very much with gigabit Ethernet. The main problem is safety. You never want to run Ethernet cable alongside mains wiring that could have its insulation damaged. But these special cables presumably have solved this problem.
Better to connect the armouring to earth both ends , there's no doubt about it , if the cpc in the cable is lost at source you still have the armouring as protection , your right you don't have to but should do for the reason I have just explained
We won't install those anymore since they removed installer discount and don't pay for call backs. Top job as always though. The internal type a RCD always failed tripping times to.
Those little holesaws are great if you cut some carpet underlay you can push it in and fill it with cutting oil and they will last longer and will self lube
Would that EV cable with the Cat5 built in not drop a lot packets! Even shielded Cat5 running in a conduit shared with AC power is gonna give a lot of interference. But for just a control panel on a charger I guess having good transfer speeds isn't too vital so it'll work.
I dont think its about 'convenient height', more about disability laws. You have to put things at 'convenient height' for the 0.001% of people that use wheelchairs, rather than the 99.999% of people that use legs.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this Jordan. The Anderson EV claims compliance with Regulation 722.411.4.1 (iii) and (iv) this is a single-phase charge point (iv) on a installation with a 3 phase supply (iii). With (iii) the regulation allows either a reference pin or a device that references all 3 phases of the supply, and you must allow for phase loss. As you are only connected to a single-phase it can’t comply with (iii) and according to Regulation you should not install equipment complying with (iv)
Depends on the manufacturers instructions and the specific model of charger. Several models have a 6mA DC protection integrated, there a type A RCD is sufficient. But some have not, for example the older Tesla charger don't have DC protection in it, so a type B RCD is mandatory. Alternative to type B RCD is the type A+EV, but there's only one manufacturer for that (Doepke). It's a type A RCD with a 6mA DC protection.
@@paulegan1476 Either type A or B, depending on the charger which type is required. The ones with integrated DC protection are more expensive than the ones without. But the price difference in the charger doesn't matter, because if you pick the cheaper charger you'll have to invest in the more expensive type B RCD. And never install two RCDs in series, except the first one is a time-delayed and the tripping current at least three times higher than the one coming afterwards.
The armoured gland goes on the outside of the box. The glands IP rated so won't effect the first part of the enclosure. The cable then just goes through the inner gland to be connected
Hi Jordan, noticed recently that people are picking up a 32 amp supply from the consumer unit and fitting those commando sockets outside to charge there Tesla's at 7/8 kw instead of fitting a dedicated charger..is this ok/safe to charge this way?
Jordan, The A2 is a nice looking charger👌 I think you have missed a very important item 🤔 on that install. I didn't see you fit an A type RCD to the supply circuit in that video!!
I would of be more interested in seeing EV charge point installs in house with no drives or front gardens. Cable grates and other methods of crossing the pavements. I know you charge a premium. But there's only so many premium installs i can watch.
Would the same 6mm cable size be ok to run to a detached garage for lights/sockets etc, & still be future proofed for an EV charger (have enough headroom)?
Great video. I have an Andersen A2 and a Tesla M3LR, but I cannot get it to work with the Andersen “Scheduled” charging feature of their Konnect+ app. When the scheduled charge kicks in the Tesla only sees 5amps and therefore says it will take hours and hours to charge. This doesn’t happen if I don’t use the scheduled charge feature and just plug the A2 into the Tesla, it then sees 32amps and charges normally. I reported it to Andersen, but unhelpful they said it is a Tesla issue. What is your view on the A2 and scheduled charging with a Tesla please,
We have the same issue As in we are having our garden paved But on a waiting list to have charger fitted Should we lay a cable like they’ve done Or would it be better to lay a conduit with a length of light rope as a pull through
Great vid, fitted on of these last week. NICE. The spec sheet says you need to be fitting an A type RCBO upstream or A type RCD + mcb or I’m reading it wrong? Great news about your electric van, I’ve been waiting for mine for over 3 months.
Hello, do you know that if you connect an 30kw single phase to those 22 KW three phase ev charger, same phase on the 3 wires, does the car charger at 22kw? Because they say 7kw single phase charger. Thanks
On the topic of EV charger cable, Currently studying to become an electrician and my teachers have been ranting on about data and electricity cables should never be close to eachother due to interference, Mentioned how the newer cables also has a data cable put into it, He thought its really dumb to do that since it goes against general knowledge I guess is the best way to put it. What's the reason to use an EV charger cable over normal cable with a data cable ran on the side of it? Is it due to saving time due to being easier to install and whatnot? (Think my teacher said something about it should be ran with about a 30cm lenght away from eachother)
Most data cables perform better away from power cables, however in this case the manufacturer has designed the cable with this in mind so it shouldn’t be an issue.
@@_chrisr_ Hmm, Have they done any notes as to hoe much of a performance lose it is and or some sort of difference? If put in simple terms from my perspective would the lose be such as ones download speed getting shaved off by a certain amount type of thing where they end up just finding a point where the product works as intented at certain speeds. (Just hypothetical from what i know, dont know Wether its correct in any way)
@@fushisu I’ve never worked with that type of cable so I couldn’t say one way or another but I’ve worked on installations where data cable has run in proximity to power for part of the route and not seen any issues. I suspect that the loading on the power will have more effect rather than the fact that it is there since the field around the power will be proportional to the current passing. If this fluctuates then the risk increases of inducing a current in neighbouring wires, however the data cable is designed to mitigate this by balancing the signal across pairs so as long as the interference is same on both in a pair then it will cancel out,
@@_chrisr_ Hmm yah i guess, I should check more into it and also more inte interference in power/data cables, Assume the power cables interefered with the data cables and thats why it was separated and not other way around type of thing. Ty for the info though, Alot to learn going forward
I was looking at the ultra ev cable and it comes with either cat 5e four twisted pair or with a screened pair. Do you have any preference? Do you think we would need cat 5e in the future or is this for lack of WiFi? Thanks, Stuart
Four pairs is more than one. So for future proofing, go with that one, especially if the cost differential is not that significant compared to what you’d pay someone to dig a new trench for more cable. There’s a bunch of current charge points that can already handle up to three current transformers, on three separate pairs of wire. But then there are also usually solutions for the monitoring of those CTs to be done at the site and just transmit data, usually wirelessly, to the charge point. So… I mean, this really is a “just in case” sort of outlay. Even the single pair is, really. But I have no idea what the effective extra cost is from just power to single pair to cat5. But my bet is that single pair or cat5 isn’t a huge difference in cost. A secondary usage for these cables, which is not what they’re marketed for, but… outbuildings. The shed/pool house/granny annex at the back of the garden. Those are *immensely* helped by power+cat5 in one cable.
If you refer to a reasonable height in a repetitive industrialized environment it would be called the " Golden zone" not too high , not too low. A comfortable distant for the average human. Midrift area. 👍👍
Speaking as somebody with a buddy with a house in Portugal it's because you put the oven on, watch tv and turn on your laptop you overload one phase, it's extremely necessary. In the UK it's rare because most people don't need it.
It truly is beautiful. I swapped my Porsche Mobile Charger Connect (and mount) for it… although Andersen themselves are buggers for adding “extras” to the install. ;)
3 core armoured cable was a tight squeeze into the Andersen. Would 5 core 3 phase ( plus with data cables if that exists ) been very difficult to work with?
How did you resolve the PEN cut-off with only the 3 core SWA cable. Or have I missed something in previous vids. Great vides by the way. Keep them coming.
Is it the camera angle or are you out of plumb? I would have connected the armoured cable first then mark the the fixing points on the wall a few inches up or down isn’t that critical.
You guys should think about showing the setting up of these chargers, I can't believe that you don't have a single issue with connection to them wi-fi some times or on the zappi getting the hub to connect. Maybe showing one in which when you get a problem with the connectivity to make them smart how you get around this would be good to see.
The EV ultra cable is sensible for data, but you could potentially just have data over powerline if there was no chance of a wireless signal? Wonder if anyone's considered integrating that in.
While I understand about SWA cable, would be be good to run it in plastic gray electrical conduit so it can be painted and blend more with the wall? Keep up with good work sir! 👍
@@haldo691 I forget you have black ducting over there. In the US it’s all gray electrical pvc conduit which is our uv stabilized version. Then a lot of people paint it to match.
Small world, I was wondering just this morning exactly what kind of infrastructure I could theasably pre install for a potential future e.v without too much commitment to actually getting one
i have the Wera hex plus set the short and long one butt i have the normal set not the stainless you have and i am having no problem with it using it daily as a industrial electrician.
Question for you or anyone else, on the knipex urgo strip does anyone have an issue with it nipping the cores. I thought I might have been a little heavy handed but I have been very careful and had the same issue to some degree
@@artisanelectrics anything up to 6mm really I have this issue, I think it depends on how much pressure I’m applying and there is a bit of a knack to all cables
Top tip, Wera Hex keys snap at exactly 0.7Nm so you just need to buy one per screw. But search for "Sealey STS103 Digital Torque Screwdriver" I have one it takes any standard hex bits.
Do the EV-ultra cables run AC? May not be too great for the CAT-5 in terms of interference. I usually run AC and data separately for this reason, but may be just superstition from the early internet days at this point.
Not sure if you used them here or not Jordan, but I've seen Cory use them, which brand of knock in metal clips do you use to fix the SWA to the wall..? Are they D-Line or another brand?
dont suppose anyone knows the installers pin code after you tap the button 3 times? my charger is limited at 1kwh as the adaptive fuse is over reading the incoming supply & cant get hold of original installer
The Allan Keys you have there, are the stainless Keys Form Wera?! If they are ist normal that thay mitght Break of cause they are much softer than hardened Steel. They are specificially for tightning stainless Steal Bolts .
Great install, could you have put the cable through the wall at the bottom and gone rear entry? Could you gland the SWA to the outer case of the charger and use a Wisla gland on the flexible sheath of the SWA at the IP section?
I’m thinking of the A2 as when I get one it has to go on the front of the house. Would you go directly from the meter box otherwise surface mount the cable in the house is the only option
Jordan, I use a "Smith's" fishing hook sharpner for dull small blades on the job. It's shaped like a pen with a clip for the pocket. It has a 100mm long 6mm Diameter round diamond sharpner reducing to a point. It also has a flat edge as well, perfect for hardened but intricate blades. I'm sure you would find it useful. Great video mate with good info re water damage etc. Looking forward to the next one 🤗
Had my Ergostrip for a few years now, no bluntness as it only gets used on soft sheathed cables ie. flex and meter tails etc. Use the right tool for the job and they’ll last for many, many years. Stanley knife for stripping the outer sheath on SWA as the blades are dirt cheap Loads of torque wrenches on the market with 1/4” square drive which you can then put a long or ball ended hex on
Request a quote from Artisan Electrics here - app.openquote.net/company/artisanelectrics
If the cable is already in the ground, fit the cable to the box and gland it, then mount the box to the wall. That way you have a little leeway for height.
Exactly what I was thinking it’s about saving time and making things easy in this game and of course doing it safely
Was going to say the same thing
Fixing the box to the wall before attaching the cables creates a potential back injury issue. We have a little camping chair where we connect the cables while sitting with the unit across our knees. Way less bending and awkward angles. Once cables attached, then attach to wall. This allows for any mistakes in cutting the cable too short.
@@achmadosman9807 yea it’s so much faster to do it on the floor too
From an IT engineer, those KNIPEX strippers are a lifesaver in taking off the sheath on CAT5e. Thank you for the recommendation.
Thanks! Glad you like them
Very kind of you to shout me out Jordan. I'll definitely be using the strippers when I get the chance
Bet youve said that before in your younger days del mate 😉😂
@@dans5101 :') :')
Couldn't you use the 3 core armoured as a 3 phase supply for a 3phase ev charger. Do you need a neutral as well ?
Australian sparky here, really enjoy your channels vids, interesting to see electrical in another country :)!!
Next time you install an A2 and once you have stripped the cables and are happy with the fitment, pull the armoured cable back out of the A2 and mark out a template from the entry gland cut up to the 3 core ends. Any future A2 installs will be a lot quicker and easier to mark and cut each point using the same template from entry gland upwards before feeding into the A2. Bit of a minor faff the first time, but worth it.
Hey, Jordan, you ordering an electric VAN is simply a fantastic announcement ! Congratulations for your decision ! I'm looking forward, seeing the exciting moment when it's being delivered.
That’s it Jordan help another brother out 👍 delroy’s a good bloke
Totally
Can't wait for a tour of your new e-Transporter!!
Thanks!
I wish you luck with the T6 LWB 82 mile range when empty van. A few of us tried them out and unless you're city based it's just not got the range, the E-Vivaro would have been a better choice imo. Lovely install but normally we'd dead test the customer supplied cable before fitting the charger - saving a potential wasted day if it has been damaged when buried.
Good point! Yeah we’re gonna just use it got local jobs, I will still use the Tesla for the long journeys
@@artisanelectrics It comes with some nice perks, assisted breaking etc for parking in town but quite often finding a parking spot for a LWB can be a pain. So much so we won't use LWB vans for our city center, so hopefully your parking situation is far better than Little London by Sea.
Why didn't you test the cable before connecting it - seems a waste of time connecting then disconnecting again..?
may of slipped his mind, as a highly seasoned tech i still make rookie mistakes occasionally.
Bet you are fun at parties 🤦🏼♂️
@@miketaylor1916 you go to some weird parties pal.
Crap Sparks.....
you could even ask why he use 3phase delta cable on a single phase install, failed to correctly identify conductors (70% coverage of crap or L1, N, E tape) just another shoddy job!
I always put the gland onto whatever you are glanding into first. Like what you did back at the DB
If it was me I would have taken the charger off of the wall, pulled the armoured further through, made it off then put the charger back off and finish the gland!
I’m no electrition but always love to find an easier way of doing fiddly tasks like that😂
Spot on bud!
That is a TPN service head. There is a secondary head and that is for E7 (hence the single control fuse and E7 meters). The main head is TPN then you have that secondary TPN head used for E7. There is TPN MCBs as well fed from the main head. I see this type of setup in this area quite a bit where the incomer is TPN and then a secondary head for E7 using a TPN head just to confuse you. Also as that secondary head is fused back at the substation I would be securing the link (split con or civil duct I cannot tell) that had the SWA hanging off it.
Now if you open the top part of the main head you will find three BS88 fuses going off to that TPN panel. This should only be a DNO job though. But that will be the main TPN supply.
Hope this helps 🤓.
Where is the RCD to protect the charger?
The Andersen A2 has its own built in Type A RCD with 6mA DC Protection and PEN fault protection just like the MyEnergi Zappi
Not when you read the spec sheet it says upstream protection by type A RCD ? We think they moved the type A function out like other manufacturers are doing.
@@efixx 🤦♂️ would be great if they told their installers stuff like that
Surely you would sussed something was a miss when testing the RCD function?
All the ones we have installed recently have passed the RCD tests fine
That stuby ratchet is the best thing in the world. I was working on a rather unique bit of kit on one of the new Royal Navy aircraft carries, and we had to disassemble half the system to get one board out so we could reprogram it, an American chap came over from the OEM with one of those tiny ratchets and popped it out with 2 screws we could never have dreamed of accessing! Made 25 mins to reprogram into 10, most of which was flashing the EEPROM.
Cool thanks for sharing
Question for you. Does the charging cable have to be fully unwound when you are charging your vehicle ,if you only need 2m of when parked up will the cable left inside the unit get warm.
Gland the armoured into the charger, hen screw it on the wall :)
good idea
Agreed, gives the flex that is needed
Yes Robin
I’m just an interested DIYer and can’t believe he’s not worked that out!
In Germany, three-phase 11 kW chargers are common. For 22 kW you need the approval of the electricity supplier, for 11 kW you only have to report the installation. That is then 3x 16 amps.
A disadvantage is when a car only wants to charge one phase 32 amps and is reduced to 16 amps. That would be only 3600 watts to an 11 kW three phase charging point.
The idea of a power cable with a data cable built-in goes against everything I was taught about running CAT5 cables and not running them closely in parallel with high current power cables.
I'm guessing that these combined power and data cables have the appropriate shielding to mitigate this.
You have not kept up-to date matey, you need to check out some more TH-cam vids and all will be revealed
You are allowed to mix class 1 and class 2 cabling if the insulation of all of them is rated for the highest voltage present.
@@jimgeelan5949 no youtube!!! jeeeez... the official books!!! damn this is why good craft men hard to have!
@@aaronmdjones in the netherlands. when there needs to be HIGH quality installations the signal cables are run next to high power but in a seperate cable tray. outside also in a seperate tube or flex or whatever. in theory is sounds fine to have high power next to signal cables but practice tells different! so i never never never do that
@@irshicosmos3233 if the cable manufacturer warrants its okay, that seems reason enough to trust them.
And let’s be fair, high power AC actually doesn’t interfere very much with gigabit Ethernet. The main problem is safety. You never want to run Ethernet cable alongside mains wiring that could have its insulation damaged. But these special cables presumably have solved this problem.
As it's 3-core you don't need to terminate the armouring at the charger end, so could just use a nylon stuffing gland as space is tight.
Better to connect the armouring to earth both ends , there's no doubt about it , if the cpc in the cable is lost at source you still have the armouring as protection , your right you don't have to but should do for the reason I have just explained
@@Mainly_Electrical Not always a good idea were its a TNC-S incoming arrangement
@@jan-dr1xl why's that
@@Mainly_Electrical jesus
@@UberAlphaSirus Jesus ?
We won't install those anymore since they removed installer discount and don't pay for call backs. Top job as always though. The internal type a RCD always failed tripping times to.
Those little holesaws are great if you cut some carpet underlay you can push it in and fill it with cutting oil and they will last longer and will self lube
You made installing a charge point very interesting, little did I know I'd not only be watching this but enjoying it!
Would that EV cable with the Cat5 built in not drop a lot packets! Even shielded Cat5 running in a conduit shared with AC power is gonna give a lot of interference. But for just a control panel on a charger I guess having good transfer speeds isn't too vital so it'll work.
When you mentioned at 2:25 'Convenient Height' is there any Wiring Regulation (722.55.101.5)? I am just asking. Thanks
I dont think its about 'convenient height', more about disability laws. You have to put things at 'convenient height' for the 0.001% of people that use wheelchairs, rather than the 99.999% of people that use legs.
So, Jordan doesn't even have to run a wire. Cory's digging holes and drilling mad angles in to sunken consumer units.... Pays to be the boss eh :)
Well the Boss is the Boss Cory has a great Boss and a great job!!
😁👍
@@Mattyboy88979 This is why I work for myself :)
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this Jordan. The Anderson EV claims compliance with Regulation 722.411.4.1 (iii) and (iv) this is a single-phase charge point (iv) on a installation with a 3 phase supply (iii).
With (iii) the regulation allows either a reference pin or a device that references all 3 phases of the supply, and you must allow for phase loss.
As you are only connected to a single-phase it can’t comply with (iii) and according to Regulation you should not install equipment complying with (iv)
I had just watched the same delroy video and was shouting that he needs a flex stripper .
One step ahead as always
😁👍
in germany you need a type B rcd for ev chargeing points and we have type A as standard in the houses
Depends on the manufacturers instructions and the specific model of charger. Several models have a 6mA DC protection integrated, there a type A RCD is sufficient. But some have not, for example the older Tesla charger don't have DC protection in it, so a type B RCD is mandatory.
Alternative to type B RCD is the type A+EV, but there's only one manufacturer for that (Doepke). It's a type A RCD with a 6mA DC protection.
I thought these charge points need a type A and B 6mA… ?
@@paulegan1476 Either type A or B, depending on the charger which type is required. The ones with integrated DC protection are more expensive than the ones without. But the price difference in the charger doesn't matter, because if you pick the cheaper charger you'll have to invest in the more expensive type B RCD.
And never install two RCDs in series, except the first one is a time-delayed and the tripping current at least three times higher than the one coming afterwards.
The armoured gland goes on the outside of the box. The glands IP rated so won't effect the first part of the enclosure. The cable then just goes through the inner gland to be connected
What if you used a swa gland in the outer part of the ev charger and then a stuffing gland in the inner ?
I guess that, as the compartment in between is not IP rated, then water could get down the outer gland from there?
Good old 5 in 1s, bloody life saver. Lovely job buddy
I'm not a sparky but why dont u put cable through outer hole put cable gland on then wall mount it will give u slack when doing the gland
Another awesome video Jordan !
Thanks!
Hi Jordan, noticed recently that people are picking up a 32 amp supply from the consumer unit and fitting those commando sockets outside to charge there Tesla's at 7/8 kw instead of fitting a dedicated charger..is this ok/safe to charge this way?
Where do you buy the special cable between the charger to the vehicle
It’s part of the charge point
Could you tell me what camera and mic you have?
Jordan, The A2 is a nice looking charger👌 I think you have missed a very important item 🤔 on that install. I didn't see you fit an A type RCD to the supply circuit in that video!!
It doesn’t need one as it has its own Type A RCD Built in
Do you save all of your unused and waste copper, steel etc. from old/cut-off cables for scrap and recycling?
I would of be more interested in seeing EV charge point installs in house with no drives or front gardens. Cable grates and other methods of crossing the pavements. I know you charge a premium. But there's only so many premium installs i can watch.
I’d like to see that too
Would the same 6mm cable size be ok to run to a detached garage for lights/sockets etc, & still be future proofed for an EV charger (have enough headroom)?
Great video. I have an Andersen A2 and a Tesla M3LR, but I cannot get it to work with the Andersen “Scheduled” charging feature of their Konnect+ app. When the scheduled charge kicks in the Tesla only sees 5amps and therefore says it will take hours and hours to charge. This doesn’t happen if I don’t use the scheduled charge feature and just plug the A2 into the Tesla, it then sees 32amps and charges normally. I reported it to Andersen, but unhelpful they said it is a Tesla issue. What is your view on the A2 and scheduled charging with a Tesla please,
We have the same issue
As in we are having our garden paved
But on a waiting list to have charger fitted
Should we lay a cable like they’ve done
Or would it be better to lay a conduit with a length of light rope as a pull through
Great vid, fitted on of these last week. NICE.
The spec sheet says you need to be fitting an A type RCBO upstream or A type RCD + mcb or I’m reading it wrong?
Great news about your electric van, I’ve been waiting for mine for over 3 months.
Yes external RCD required - seems to be missing in this job.
Hello, do you know that if you connect an 30kw single phase to those 22 KW three phase ev charger, same phase on the 3 wires, does the car charger at 22kw? Because they say 7kw single phase charger. Thanks
It's good to see you back on the tools Jordan. I love your EV installs. You guys are the best.
Yes, it is the most beautiful electric charger on the market for sure. I have one and it's brilliant. Andersen the company are brilliant.
On the topic of EV charger cable, Currently studying to become an electrician and my teachers have been ranting on about data and electricity cables should never be close to eachother due to interference, Mentioned how the newer cables also has a data cable put into it, He thought its really dumb to do that since it goes against general knowledge I guess is the best way to put it.
What's the reason to use an EV charger cable over normal cable with a data cable ran on the side of it?
Is it due to saving time due to being easier to install and whatnot?
(Think my teacher said something about it should be ran with about a 30cm lenght away from eachother)
Most data cables perform better away from power cables, however in this case the manufacturer has designed the cable with this in mind so it shouldn’t be an issue.
@@_chrisr_ Hmm, Have they done any notes as to hoe much of a performance lose it is and or some sort of difference?
If put in simple terms from my perspective would the lose be such as ones download speed getting shaved off by a certain amount type of thing where they end up just finding a point where the product works as intented at certain speeds.
(Just hypothetical from what i know, dont know Wether its correct in any way)
@@fushisu I’ve never worked with that type of cable so I couldn’t say one way or another but I’ve worked on installations where data cable has run in proximity to power for part of the route and not seen any issues. I suspect that the loading on the power will have more effect rather than the fact that it is there since the field around the power will be proportional to the current passing. If this fluctuates then the risk increases of inducing a current in neighbouring wires, however the data cable is designed to mitigate this by balancing the signal across pairs so as long as the interference is same on both in a pair then it will cancel out,
@@_chrisr_ Hmm yah i guess, I should check more into it and also more inte interference in power/data cables, Assume the power cables interefered with the data cables and thats why it was separated and not other way around type of thing.
Ty for the info though, Alot to learn going forward
Hi Jordan, how does the charge point monitor load without the adaptive fuse fitted also?
I was looking at the ultra ev cable and it comes with either cat 5e four twisted pair or with a screened pair. Do you have any preference? Do you think we would need cat 5e in the future or is this for lack of WiFi? Thanks, Stuart
Four pairs is more than one. So for future proofing, go with that one, especially if the cost differential is not that significant compared to what you’d pay someone to dig a new trench for more cable.
There’s a bunch of current charge points that can already handle up to three current transformers, on three separate pairs of wire. But then there are also usually solutions for the monitoring of those CTs to be done at the site and just transmit data, usually wirelessly, to the charge point.
So… I mean, this really is a “just in case” sort of outlay. Even the single pair is, really. But I have no idea what the effective extra cost is from just power to single pair to cat5. But my bet is that single pair or cat5 isn’t a huge difference in cost.
A secondary usage for these cables, which is not what they’re marketed for, but… outbuildings. The shed/pool house/granny annex at the back of the garden. Those are *immensely* helped by power+cat5 in one cable.
So in the UK you have cables which combine high volts and low volts in the same sheathing?
Did the RCM test ok @ x5?
They now advise an RCBO be installed as the RCM doesn’t meet requirements…..
If you refer to a reasonable height in a repetitive industrialized environment it would be called the " Golden zone" not too high , not too low. A comfortable distant for the average human. Midrift area. 👍👍
"A special here: they got a 3 phase DB"
Every continental European homeowner: Am I a joke to you?
Speaking as somebody with a buddy with a house in Portugal it's because you put the oven on, watch tv and turn on your laptop you overload one phase, it's extremely necessary. In the UK it's rare because most people don't need it.
Was that just a type b MCB you installed? Doesn't any cable run underground need to be protected by an RCD?
It truly is beautiful. I swapped my Porsche Mobile Charger Connect (and mount) for it… although Andersen themselves are buggers for adding “extras” to the install. ;)
3 core armoured cable was a tight squeeze into the Andersen. Would 5 core 3 phase ( plus with data cables if that exists ) been very difficult to work with?
Not sure that charger handles 3 phase but I could be wrong.
.09 ohms... ?
Plus what process to get access to breaking the main seal?
Why did you put the cable on the wall with cleats and not linian superclips?
Didn’t have any superclips that day unfortunately
Sad you didn't install a 3 phase EVSE
yeah, a complete waste.. there is 3ph service in the house and they still get a 1ph charger..
Customer only fitted 3 core, so hasn’t got the extra phases
How did you resolve the PEN cut-off with only the 3 core SWA cable. Or have I missed something in previous vids. Great vides by the way. Keep them coming.
Is it the camera angle or are you out of plumb? I would have connected the armoured cable first then mark the the fixing points on the wall a few inches up or down isn’t that critical.
Good comment about unbooted cable, damp can seep in through capillary action
🧰🛠️ Tools Of The Day 👇
Wera Bit Check Set: amzn.to/3AoDJCt
Knipex Ergostrip: amzn.to/36dX4sd
get an AccuSharp it a knife and Blade sharpener it like 10 usd on amazon you can use it on any blade so your tools will last for years.
The bit check sets are amazing. Great for fiddly fasteners in tight spots.
You guys should think about showing the setting up of these chargers, I can't believe that you don't have a single issue with connection to them wi-fi some times or on the zappi getting the hub to connect. Maybe showing one in which when you get a problem with the connectivity to make them smart how you get around this would be good to see.
The EV ultra cable is sensible for data, but you could potentially just have data over powerline if there was no chance of a wireless signal? Wonder if anyone's considered integrating that in.
Jordan, great videos but I wish you would test the cable first...... Remember the scout hall video?
The owner would have been much better off installing PVC conduit that you can run cables through afterwards. More flexible solution.
While I understand about SWA cable, would be be good to run it in plastic gray electrical conduit so it can be painted and blend more with the wall? Keep up with good work sir! 👍
Always better to duct cables so it's easier to change them in the future and adds another layer of mechanical protection should be black ducting
@@haldo691 I forget you have black ducting over there. In the US it’s all gray electrical pvc conduit which is our uv stabilized version. Then a lot of people paint it to match.
@@Chris_In_Texas yeah black for electric ,grey for telephone , blue for water , yellow for gas here
before you try stripping those cables heat them up with a blow torch. It softens the plastic up and its real easy to cut then, like cutting butter!
Hey Jordan i have the same knipex ergo strip butt the left handed version butt No you Cant get replacement blades for it sadly.
Small world, I was wondering just this morning exactly what kind of infrastructure I could theasably pre install for a potential future e.v without too much commitment to actually getting one
Who does your filming?
i have the Wera hex plus set the short and long one butt i have the normal set not the stainless you have and i am having no problem with it using it daily as a industrial electrician.
Jordan what tester did you use to test the actual EV charger (one which simulates the eV)?
Question for you or anyone else, on the knipex urgo strip does anyone have an issue with it nipping the cores. I thought I might have been a little heavy handed but I have been very careful and had the same issue to some degree
Ive not had that problem but I guess it depends what size cables you are stripping
@@artisanelectrics anything up to 6mm really I have this issue, I think it depends on how much pressure I’m applying and there is a bit of a knack to all cables
What type of cable?
@@artisanelectrics swa,
@@artisanelectrics think I just need to be more careful tbh, I still think it’s a great product and love to use it
Top tip, Wera Hex keys snap at exactly 0.7Nm so you just need to buy one per screw. But search for "Sealey STS103 Digital Torque Screwdriver" I have one it takes any standard hex bits.
Do the EV-ultra cables run AC? May not be too great for the CAT-5 in terms of interference. I usually run AC and data separately for this reason, but may be just superstition from the early internet days at this point.
Pro Bike Tools do a very small torque wrench set , for working on cycles but will do the same job. From 2-20 I believe.
Not sure if you used them here or not Jordan, but I've seen Cory use them, which brand of knock in metal clips do you use to fix the SWA to the wall..? Are they D-Line or another brand?
I wonder Why dont you guys cover the cable on the brick wall with stainless steel cover? From avoiding damage. Like cars bumbing to it etc.
Has the vw van ccs fast charge
Subscribe to our TH-cam Channel for more great electrical content: th-cam.com/users/artisanelectricsuk
Amazon still sell those stanleys, picked one up recently along with the blade pack
Nice thanks
If you do a crossover episode with Delroy… that’s peak TH-cam right there.
😁👍
You can't get replacement blades for the Knipex but mines had heavy use for years and is still fine.
dont suppose anyone knows the installers pin code after you tap the button 3 times? my charger is limited at 1kwh as the adaptive fuse is over reading the incoming supply & cant get hold of original installer
Just call Andersen they will help
The Allan Keys you have there, are the stainless Keys Form Wera?! If they are ist normal that thay mitght Break of cause they are much softer than hardened Steel. They are specificially for tightning stainless Steal Bolts .
yes, those little rounded allen wrenches do have a tendancy to snap off... Thank you for this agreable and useful video.
Wera, Wiha and Armeg all do hex end blade inserts, depending on which torque driver you want to use, so yes, they're a thing.
And he already has the Wera torque driver. Doesn't go down to 0.7 Nm though.
Great install, could you have put the cable through the wall at the bottom and gone rear entry? Could you gland the SWA to the outer case of the charger and use a Wisla gland on the flexible sheath of the SWA at the IP section?
I’m thinking of the A2 as when I get one it has to go on the front of the house. Would you go directly from the meter box otherwise surface mount the cable in the house is the only option
When do you get your new VW E Transporter?
If you taken delivery can you do a review?
It’s coming end of the month! I will definitely do a review video
Jordan, I use a "Smith's" fishing hook sharpner for dull small blades on the job. It's shaped like a pen with a clip for the pocket. It has a 100mm long 6mm Diameter round diamond sharpner reducing to a point. It also has a flat edge as well, perfect for hardened but intricate blades. I'm sure you would find it useful. Great video mate with good info re water damage etc. Looking forward to the next one 🤗
I might overlooked it, but.. why did you mount that charger down at knee height?! Isn't it supposed to be roughly face height?
You could have glanded the amour onto the outside then used a stuffing gland inside.
Really nice video! Good looking charger and install
Had my Ergostrip for a few years now, no bluntness as it only gets used on soft sheathed cables ie. flex and meter tails etc. Use the right tool for the job and they’ll last for many, many years. Stanley knife for stripping the outer sheath on SWA as the blades are dirt cheap
Loads of torque wrenches on the market with 1/4” square drive which you can then put a long or ball ended hex on
For Anderson: Upgrade the plastic box with side finishes in stone, steel, or wood. It would look much more finished.