I've always hated the in-the-guitar battery bags. So in addition to the basic installation done in this video, I always add a through the body battery box so the battery is accessible and changeable from the outside at any time. For me, the hardest part of these installs is getting the wires out of the way and properly locating the wireguides inside the body. I've had more than one setup where every once in awhile the wires would contact the face or back of the guitar body after moving it around a lot, and set up a "buzz" that sounds awful. Have to loosen the strings, get the hand in there, and reposition 'em. Great install video. makes it look easy.
I use denatured alcohol on the wood surfaces to be taped. I've had to re-adhere so many pup components that had come loose from other people's install b/c the tape let go. Just something to consider.
I've had it for years. Didn't effect the acoustic sound on my '78 Takamine. I'm switching over to the M80 this week though. I'm sick of dealing with the feedback issues when I play gigs where they have a monitor right in front of you. If you don't have a solid sound tech you'll deal with feedback.
Nice job. What are you using to tidy the wiring? I diy installed an anthem classical in my nylon but there’s a slight low frequency rattle/vibration. The main thing I didn’t do well is tidy the wires well enough but if you have any other pointers on why I might be getting that I’d love to know.
so the element sits between the bone and the corpus. that means the transmission of the vibtrations of the strings to the corpus will be weakened. might be good for the signal, but bad for the acoustics in general. will be looking for something else then.
Hello, what is the name of that drill to make the hole. And how many millimeters is it? I understand that the jack lr baggs is 11.5mm. I wait for your help.
Hey Cristian, it a 4-12mm reamer we had for many years. it cuts very clean. uk.rs-online.com/web/p/specialist-drill-bits/0423854?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Power_Tools_%26_Soldering_%26_Welding_Whoop-_-Specialist+Drill+Bits_Whoop+(2)-_-423854&matchtype=&pla-295809134609&gclid=Cj0KCQiA64GRBhCZARIsAHOLriIXOT6EZdH0CI22dDOWG8HVhb1YXUBnCYze0tih-GbpK6vwpVTQpaMaAgGXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@Kivencito How did it go?! I've got a Furch Yellow, not quite as pricey as your Martin but not far off and I won't be doing this myself... I was scared for you.....
@@khimaros Thanks for asking. Actually, the shipment was returned to Amazon (I don't know why) and I had to buy it again. It arrived yesterday. I hope I set it up tomorrow :). I'll update you how it went.
Is the LR Baggs Anthem also meant to work in classical or nylon string guitars? How much does it effect the sound of the guitar, and in what way? Also if my strings have become too high off the frets can whomever installs it for me at the same time bring my strings a little closer to the frets? What do guitar repair shops usually charge to install this? What was that block you rubbed over the frets? Why did you do that? Thanks for a great video as it was interesting to see how a pro installs this!
There is a trick if you don't want to change the strings. I call it the "paper trick" and I learned it 40 years ago. Take 2 sheets of heavy printer paper and fold them in half. Loosen the strings and at strings 3 & 4, slide one sheet over going opposite directions. Now you can put your hand in and grab the battery bag. It works for adjusting truss rods too without damaging the strings.
Between 4:20 and 4:30 he's installing the little pouch with the 9V battery in it. If the battery is running low you just reach into the sound hole, open the pouch and exchange the battery.
@@allatsea2746 Don't forget pull off all your strings - not exactly a quick fix in the middle of a live set. Everytime you change your strings you're changing the battery - something I would inevitably forget to do
what a butcher. no taping up the end pin. no measurement of the mic positoin, there is a template for that, and OMG the adjustable spanner to tighten the jack. no health and safety when sanding..... flip me. what a poor job.
I watched this to learn how to remove mine. If I had a choice between a dead fish in my 00042 or this thing, Id ask what kind of fish we talking about.
Not using correct tools for the job, using grips on the jack yikes. When you reduce a bridge you need to mark a line for reference once you start removing material you need to track how much is being removed. Only reason to fit one of these is for gigs and looping, if you just play at home do not fit one as they massively reduce the acoustic quality of the sound. If you want to record, use a mic.
Hey, for nut we used parallel players by Knipex, they work great for this job. We highly recommend them if you don't have a pair, from guitar to woodwind to pluming. www.knipex.com/products/pipe-wrenches-and-water-pump-pliers/pliers-wrenches-pliers-and-a-wrench-in-a-single-tool/pliers-wrenchespliers-and-wrench-single-tool/8603125 You couldn't see line on the saddle as we transfer it from the micrometer. This guitar is for a church musician so it is going to do a great amplification for him.
@@jimphillippie9006 Use denatured alcohol on wood with paper towel surfaces. It dries before it soaks in and removes dust, dirt and grime. Be aware, you only get one shot to tape in the correct position, so no lifting and repositioning. Press in place tightly for 1 minute.
I've always hated the in-the-guitar battery bags. So in addition to the basic installation done in this video, I always add a through the body battery box so the battery is accessible and changeable from the outside at any time. For me, the hardest part of these installs is getting the wires out of the way and properly locating the wireguides inside the body. I've had more than one setup where every once in awhile the wires would contact the face or back of the guitar body after moving it around a lot, and set up a "buzz" that sounds awful. Have to loosen the strings, get the hand in there, and reposition 'em. Great install video. makes it look easy.
I use denatured alcohol on the wood surfaces to be taped. I've had to re-adhere so many pup components that had come loose from other people's install b/c the tape let go. Just something to consider.
Thank you so much for this video. Gave me the information I needed and the confidence to do my own.
👍
Well.. This just convinced me to let a pro do it. Way more involved than I thought. Hahaha.
Meeee Toooo!🤣
Me too, I don't want to ruin my Guild, the drilling got to me.
This guy was a butcher, sorry to say. I don’t mean to offend. It was like he was working on a $25 dollar guitar.
Many things were done wrong, or he just didn’t care.
@@georgelasko8346 what exactly he did it wrong? mind elaborate so we can avoid the same mistake?
I wonder the effect of all that stuff taped to the top has on the sound
Thank you for the awesome video!
Hi, friend! thanks for the video! do you think the anthem (this full version) affects the unpplugged/acoustic sound? Thank you!
I've had it for years. Didn't effect the acoustic sound on my '78 Takamine. I'm switching over to the M80 this week though. I'm sick of dealing with the feedback issues when I play gigs where they have a monitor right in front of you. If you don't have a solid sound tech you'll deal with feedback.
Nice job. What are you using to tidy the wiring? I diy installed an anthem classical in my nylon but there’s a slight low frequency rattle/vibration. The main thing I didn’t do well is tidy the wires well enough but if you have any other pointers on why I might be getting that I’d love to know.
so the element sits between the bone and the corpus. that means the transmission of the vibtrations of the strings to the corpus will be weakened. might be good for the signal, but bad for the acoustics in general. will be looking for something else then.
Hello, what is the name of that drill to make the hole. And how many millimeters is it? I understand that the jack lr baggs is 11.5mm. I wait for your help.
Hey Cristian, it a 4-12mm reamer we had for many years. it cuts very clean.
uk.rs-online.com/web/p/specialist-drill-bits/0423854?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Power_Tools_%26_Soldering_%26_Welding_Whoop-_-Specialist+Drill+Bits_Whoop+(2)-_-423854&matchtype=&pla-295809134609&gclid=Cj0KCQiA64GRBhCZARIsAHOLriIXOT6EZdH0CI22dDOWG8HVhb1YXUBnCYze0tih-GbpK6vwpVTQpaMaAgGXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hat's Off to you mate I could Never do that in a hundred years! I know I wold just get it wrong and ruin my guitar.
wish me luck! Im doing this to my D18 next week :P
@@Kivencito How did it go?! I've got a Furch Yellow, not quite as pricey as your Martin but not far off and I won't be doing this myself... I was scared for you.....
@@khimaros Thanks for asking. Actually, the shipment was returned to Amazon (I don't know why) and I had to buy it again. It arrived yesterday. I hope I set it up tomorrow :). I'll update you how it went.
@@Kivencito You are kind of leaving us wondering here.. ;)
Is the LR Baggs Anthem also meant to work in classical or nylon string guitars? How much does it effect the sound of the guitar, and in what way? Also if my strings have become too high off the frets can whomever installs it for me at the same time bring my strings a little closer to the frets? What do guitar repair shops usually charge to install this? What was that block you rubbed over the frets? Why did you do that? Thanks for a great video as it was interesting to see how a pro installs this!
they make one specifically for nylon/classical called the Anthem SL-C
Great pickups but what a pain when the battery runs out
There is a trick if you don't want to change the strings. I call it the "paper trick" and I learned it 40 years ago. Take 2 sheets of heavy printer paper and fold them in half. Loosen the strings and at strings 3 & 4, slide one sheet over going opposite directions. Now you can put your hand in and grab the battery bag. It works for adjusting truss rods too without damaging the strings.
This is a good option to use on stage?
How do you change the battery?
Between 4:20 and 4:30 he's installing the little pouch with the 9V battery in it. If the battery is running low you just reach into the sound hole, open the pouch and exchange the battery.
@@allatsea2746 Don't forget pull off all your strings - not exactly a quick fix in the middle of a live set. Everytime you change your strings you're changing the battery - something I would inevitably forget to do
what a butcher. no taping up the end pin. no measurement of the mic positoin, there is a template for that, and OMG the adjustable spanner to tighten the jack. no health and safety when sanding..... flip me. what a poor job.
Kinda rough bud
Too tight cranking on the end pin imo.. yikes..
I had to stop the video when he started drilling. This ain't for me...!
Not when he is that sloppy
I watched this to learn how to remove mine. If I had a choice between a dead fish in my 00042 or this thing, Id ask what kind of fish we talking about.
Not using correct tools for the job, using grips on the jack yikes. When you reduce a bridge you need to mark a line for reference once you start removing material you need to track how much is being removed. Only reason to fit one of these is for gigs and looping, if you just play at home do not fit one as they massively reduce the acoustic quality of the sound. If you want to record, use a mic.
Hey, for nut we used parallel players by Knipex, they work great for this job. We highly recommend them if you don't have a pair, from guitar to woodwind to pluming.
www.knipex.com/products/pipe-wrenches-and-water-pump-pliers/pliers-wrenches-pliers-and-a-wrench-in-a-single-tool/pliers-wrenchespliers-and-wrench-single-tool/8603125
You couldn't see line on the saddle as we transfer it from the micrometer.
This guitar is for a church musician so it is going to do a great amplification for him.
I keep hearing about adhesive failure. Thoughts?
@@jimphillippie9006 Use denatured alcohol on wood with paper towel surfaces. It dries before it soaks in and removes dust, dirt and grime. Be aware, you only get one shot to tape in the correct position, so no lifting and repositioning. Press in place tightly for 1 minute.
Why is this guy so careless with the guitar? He's bashing tools against it. Hands are too shaky. Dude...slow the hell down!