Thank you, Kyle. This is wonderful. This type of shot, though it requires practice and patience to learn, is worth its weight in gold. Once learned can be played universally from almost any lie 30 yards and in. Thanks again!
Kyle, it looked like you had a 56 w/8 degrees of bounce. Seems to be the perfect club for a tight lie Less bounce allowing you to pick the ball clean. Thanks. Will have to try.
I use a thin, 3/8" piece of plywood - instead of a 2" x 4" and then having to choke up on the club. This makes it more like an actual hard pan lie (height-wise). To keep the board from moving, you can pre-drill holes in each corner & tack a tee into each hole. Although a little awkward to carry around, you can use a piece large enough to stand on, much like a regular hitting mat. This way your feet are always the same height as the ball. ...just my thoughts.
It took me yrs of learning to finally get that i pick my shot based on the LIE, not the geography. If tight lie= put it low. If fluffy lie, put it high. The lie dictates what shot. Unfortunately though, if you are 40 yds, on a tight lie, you have to hit this shot. It is very hard. Many golfers cheat a little and move it to aa fluffier spot. With a tight lie pitch, try hitting the back of ball first and make a divot. With a fluffy lie, you hit 1" behind ball and make no divot. It is a hard shot!!!! your margin for error is low. This "oh, this shot is easy, use the bounce" is a bunch of nonsense.
Hitting a bare lie where ball rolls into a shallow crater is one of the most difficult shot because there's no way you can hit ball first. Show a video on that.
Did you cock or hinge your wrist on the way back? If yes, is it done consciously (or passively)? The wrist hinge is the most challenging part for me, if i don't hinge, i will take the club way too inside even for a short pitch. Thanks.
Would be nice to know the rational why one should "let the bounce help" and why you think the "hands leading" -- the most common advice -- is less effective.
Paul Billings if you have the leading edge dig into the ground you could chunk it, the bounce helps the club 'bounce' or glide off of the ground. Having your hands more forward ie more shaft lean would promote digging into the ground leading to a chunk or bladed shot, while also changing the loft on the club, making it harder to judge distance
Android602715 My experience is that the bounce causes me to skull the ball. I've had much more success by putting the ball back in my stance, so "digging in" is simply a divot after the ball is gone.
Bringing the bounce into play off of hardpan is helpful because it prevents the leading edge from digging. To bring the bounce into play he wants the shaft vertical at impact.
A little misleading though. The 2x4 had give in it because of the grass underneath it (notice how the back of the 2x4 came up in the air at impact). This allowed the bounce to "glide" instead of kicking off the 2x4. Bounce is your friend as long as the ground is "soft" enough. In that case you can hit several inches behind the ball and still get away with a descent shot. If the ground is hard (no give in it . Concrete as an example) you have to hit the concrete in the perfect spot (barely behind the ball)and the club will bounce up and hit the ball below the equator hopefully. Hit a little too far behind the ball and the club will bounce up causing the leading edge to skull the ball across the green.
Great video. Simple, to the point point and nicely demonstrated.
This is the shot that gives me the most trouble. I'm looking forward to practicing it after seeing this very well explained demonstration.
Thank you, Kyle. This is wonderful. This type of shot, though it requires practice and patience to learn, is worth its weight in gold. Once learned can be played universally from almost any lie 30 yards and in. Thanks again!
all in one take...props
Damn dude that board hit was legit
That's one hell of a belt!!
Excellent video. Simple and effective.
Great lesson meant thanks! Greetings from 🇬🇧
Great tips and demo.
Kyle, it looked like you had a 56 w/8 degrees of bounce. Seems to be the perfect club for a tight lie Less bounce allowing you to pick the ball clean. Thanks. Will have to try.
I use a thin, 3/8" piece of plywood - instead of a 2" x 4" and then having to choke up on the club. This makes it more like an actual hard pan lie (height-wise). To keep the board from moving, you can pre-drill holes in each corner & tack a tee into each hole. Although a little awkward to carry around, you can use a piece large enough to stand on, much like a regular hitting mat. This way your feet are always the same height as the ball. ...just my thoughts.
Use a bread board
I use an 8’x 4’ x one inch thick sheet of plywood and secure it with 6 metal tent pegs and fitted a double shoulder strap for carrying 👍
Great video
looks working, let me try it tomorrow~~
What a G
Does it matter how much bounce you have on that club and what type grind?
Thank You!!!!
It took me yrs of learning to finally get that i pick my shot based on the LIE, not the geography. If tight lie= put it low. If fluffy lie, put it high. The lie dictates what shot. Unfortunately though, if you are 40 yds, on a tight lie, you have to hit this shot. It is very hard. Many golfers cheat a little and move it to aa fluffier spot. With a tight lie pitch, try hitting the back of ball first and make a divot. With a fluffy lie, you hit 1" behind ball and make no divot. It is a hard shot!!!! your margin for error is low. This "oh, this shot is easy, use the bounce" is a bunch of nonsense.
Hitting a bare lie where ball rolls into a shallow crater is one of the most difficult shot because there's no way you can hit ball first. Show a video on that.
Did you cock or hinge your wrist on the way back? If yes, is it done consciously (or passively)? The wrist hinge is the most challenging part for me, if i don't hinge, i will take the club way too inside even for a short pitch. Thanks.
How would you hit this same right lie but for example on top of mud with no grass
great video. when would it be useful to have a sandwedge with little to no bounce? thanks.
When you're hitting off of a land mine
Dave peltzs recommends opening up the face to reduce the effects of bounce? Have you got any thoughts on this?
Doesn't opening add bounce??
@@ashleywalls4097um no I don’t think so. Opening adds loft. If you open it enough the bounce can be 0
Would be nice to know the rational why one should "let the bounce help" and why you think the "hands leading" -- the most common advice -- is less effective.
Paul Billings if you have the leading edge dig into the ground you could chunk it, the bounce helps the club 'bounce' or glide off of the ground.
Having your hands more forward ie more shaft lean would promote digging into the ground leading to a chunk or bladed shot, while also changing the loft on the club, making it harder to judge distance
Android602715 My experience is that the bounce causes me to skull the ball. I've had much more success by putting the ball back in my stance, so "digging in" is simply a divot after the ball is gone.
ball position is key
I disagree that the bounce "helps" you, it may not hurt you with proper set up and execution, but it certainly does not help you.
Bringing the bounce into play off of hardpan is helpful because it prevents the leading edge from digging. To bring the bounce into play he wants the shaft vertical at impact.
That’s a tight lie alright but also impossible to hit fat
Its Winter time..................
Alaskans...........Hold my beer.
This has been killing me all winter.
kyle,
I would appreciate your comments to my
Golf Interactive Trainer TH-cam
Thanks
A little misleading though. The 2x4 had give in it because of the grass underneath it (notice how the back of the 2x4 came up in the air at impact). This allowed the bounce to "glide" instead of kicking off the 2x4. Bounce is your friend as long as the ground is "soft" enough. In that case you can hit several inches behind the ball and still get away with a descent shot. If the ground is hard (no give in it . Concrete as an example) you have to hit the concrete in the perfect spot (barely behind the ball)and the club will bounce up and hit the ball below the equator hopefully. Hit a little too far behind the ball and the club will bounce up causing the leading edge to skull the ball across the green.
The video is from 2013 but the clothes are from 1994. Good golf tips though!
Great video