Sehr cool, dass du das Projekt angegangen bist. Mein Sonos Sub ist auch tot und ich habe es jetzt paar Wochen vor mir her geschoben. Morgen werden ich mal mit deiner Anleitung schauen, wo mein Sub defekt ist.
Heute oder morgen bestell ich die Teile für die Reparatur. Das eigentliche Reparatur-Video sollte also in ein paar Wochen rauskommen. Aber vielleicht hast Du ja einen nicht ganz so katastrophalen Fehler, der leicher zu beheben ist. Ich hab irgendwo gesehen, dass manchmal auch nur der Gleichrichter stirbt und die Sicherung durchbrennt (2 Teile).
Hello René-Jean, it was a bit of a back and forth if I'll actually attempt an repair. But now a decisions has been made and I will order the required parts today or tomorrow. So in a few weeks time you'll see the actual repair video. Best Regards, Robert.
hi how are you im working on one of these did you by any chance measure the resistors R37 and R76 i can see them in your video but R76 the value looks odd
I'm fine, thanks. And sorry, I have given that sub back to my friend 6 month ago after I repaired it ( th-cam.com/video/Ftuhm3fXoFk/w-d-xo.html ), so I can't really take any measurements on that thing anymore.
Nein, einen Reparaturservice biete ich nicht an 😅, auch wenn ich das Ding am Ende für meinen Freund repariert habe ( th-cam.com/video/Ftuhm3fXoFk/w-d-xo.html ). Es gibt aber in Deutschland einen Anbieter, der Deinen Sonos Sub für pauschal 200€ reparieren ( www.isonatec.de/ ). Hab natürlich keine Ahnung wie gut der ist.
Have you ever see someone work on the low voltage side? I have 48vdc on those 2 solder joints in the middle. I tried removing WiFi board but that didn’t work either. Any suggestions?
Sorry, I don't have any suggestions and I've never seen an actual repair being done on the low voltage side (besides checking for loose connectors). Sorry again.
@@robertssmorgasbord I sent it off to a Micro soldering company to replace R37 resistor that was burnt but also go over the whole board and make sure everything is good. I’ll come back and post what happened and if they repaired it I’ll share the company I sent it to. I had a bad ground on my home & bad thunderstorm that took out a lot of electronics including this.
@@robertssmorgasbord no good. They diagnosed it and told me that it’s irreparable. Didn’t get into details of why. My guess is it’s just not worth paying to repair when you could purchase new in that scenario.
Habe das gleiche Problem mit meinem Sub und freue mich auf Teil 2 des Videos. Wenn man in bekannten Foren nach dem Problem sucht, findet man doch einige Leute mit dem defektem Netzteil. Habe selbst auch schon einige Ersatzteile bestellt (Mosfet, Widerstände, Diodenmodul, PWM Controller) aber bin noch nicht soweit das der Sub wieder läuft. Wenn du hier noch Hilfe beim identifizieren brauchst bin ich gerne bereit zu helfen.
Der Typ des SMD Diodenmoduls würde mich sehr interessieren! Und geb mir bitte Bescheid, ob Deine Reparatur geklappt hat. Ich habe Tabula Rasa gemacht: Fast alle Teile auf der Primärseite des Netzteils ab-/ausgelötet und ein komplett neues Netzteil draufgeklatscht. Video kommt diese Sonntag raus. Allerdings konnte ich noch nicht den Sound testen. Sa muss ich noch auf das Feedback von meinem Freund warten (hat heute seinen sub wiederbekommen).
@@robertssmorgasbord Hallo Robert. Mein Sub läuft jetzt wieder. Ich hatte noch ein Problem mit der Ansteuerung vom Gate. Der Widerstand neben dem D3 (BAT54C) war nicht mehr lesbar und ich hatte hier einen falschen Widerstand eingelötet. Zudem war die Lötverbindung zum Gate hin schlecht. Das habe ich nochmal neu gemacht und jetzt läuft es. Ich habe folgendes getauscht: Shunt R27 und R42 , R25 , R71, PWM Controller , Mosfet, R36, D3.
@@christophscherpf4201 Hallo Christoph, großartig! Hatte gerade Deinen anderen Kommentar (externes Netzteil) beantwortet und mich gewundert, ob Du das Original wieder zum Laufen gebracht hast. Hast Du mir noch die Werte für die Widerstände (ausser den Shunts)?
Def both powered. My GFs started rattling, found a loose heating on one of the chips causing the rattle. Screws were stripped from assembly?! Replaced screws after retapping heatsink. Problem gone
Sorry, I never measured the impedance of the speakers, since I was only working on the power supply side of things 😞 Plus, I've returned the repaired sub to my friend 2 month ago, and I guess my friend would object to me coming over to take that thing apart again to measure the speaker's impedance 😅
@@lsdave Ah, I totally skipped over that part. Sorry! TH is a thermistor. It's probably there to limit the inrush current (higher resistance when it's cold, when current flows through it and it's warming up its resistance decreases).
I guess it's possible. Do we talk about the audio signal, or just the amplifier outputs? The analog audio signal should be available at the connector to the digital board (unless they are using a class D amplifier with an digital input). Connecting a second speaker / transducer to the amplifier output would be experimental and might kill the amplifier. But it should be possible to disconnect one of the subwoofers and use that channel to drive a transducer (with the same impedance). That of course would probably ruin the sound of the SONOS Sub itself.
@@robertssmorgasbord i would just need the audio signal (pre-amp). since sonos allows two subwoofers with an arc, i was thinking maybe you can take a sonos sub that has a working board, and use the audio out from the board to go to the transducer. i would love to see someone more capable than me (i dont know anything lol) to try and experiment with that, especially if say there was a "broken" sonos sub that had damaged woofers themselves but the board was still fine. would it be possible for you to test an audio outsignal to an external amplifier?
@@Harlizzlee Your idea is basically sound. But unfortunately the Sonos Sub in the video is not mine, but that of a friend. So I'm a bit reluctant to experiment with it too much 😅 Besides, the Sonos software requires you to have a complete Sonos system - not just the a sub, but some high/mid-range speakers too - before you can play anything. And I just have the sub. Anyway, meanwhile it has been decided that I'll attempt to repair that thing (video coming up).
If you have a second gen 2 or gen 3 sub, you can add a second sub "officially" - Gen 1 not supported for this config as I understand it. I have 2 gen 3's in my TV room.
I wouldn't call it crap. I mean the acoustic engineering is probably quite good (can't tell for sure, I'm not an audiophile). Anyway, the service is for sure horrible. But that you are forced to create an account and use an app to configure these things is an absolute no go for me.
@@robertssmorgasbord They didn't use to require any account crap until a few years ago when they decided they needed more revenue and wanted to become a music streaming company too. It's a minor annoyance on the whole, you log in once, don't subscribe to their music service (because why should you), and then forget about it. In reply to the previous poster, nothing crap about Sonos otherwise btw. Build quality is considerably better than your typical mainstream brands like Sony or Samsung or whatever, and the sound quality is really rather good too - definitely better than consumer offerings from previously mentioned brands, particularly for subwoofer performance. Sonos Sub is really rather excellent, Samsung subs are rattly plastic that struggle even at low volume levels. There's traditional discrete component amps and speakers from that cost less out there that may sound as good or perhaps even better than a Sonos speaker, but will a regular person actually notice that? Also, then you don't get the smart features or the flawless room synching ability to play music all over your home without noticeable delay/lag. Also, the understated, clean design language of Sonos products is highly appealing to me personally at least. I haven't found anything else out there that checks all the boxes Sonos products can. Apple Homepod for example is even more expensive and has no deep bass to speak of, and so on. There's pros and cons about everything, everyone needs to make their own judgments according to their needs and desires.
Definitely not a crap brand - sure there are some manufacturing decisions here to meet a budget - but it's WAY better built than your average Samsung or Sony sub (also a lot more expensive to be sure - but it's not like you aren't getting what you pay for) - and far more powerful, clean and flexible in a home theatre setup than anything you can get baring going to a full on external amp driven home theatre system - without all the cost and hassle they have. I'd say they've made some very poor decisions in recent months given their decision to rush out a half baked new version of their app - but the hardware is still class leading. Also worth noting this is the Gen 1 version of a product that is now up to Gen 3.
UPDATE - Actual repair video is available now: “SONOS Sub (Gen. 1) Repair (Replacement Power Supply)” th-cam.com/video/Ftuhm3fXoFk/w-d-xo.html
Sehr cool, dass du das Projekt angegangen bist. Mein Sonos Sub ist auch tot und ich habe es jetzt paar Wochen vor mir her geschoben. Morgen werden ich mal mit deiner Anleitung schauen, wo mein Sub defekt ist.
Heute oder morgen bestell ich die Teile für die Reparatur. Das eigentliche Reparatur-Video sollte also in ein paar Wochen rauskommen. Aber vielleicht hast Du ja einen nicht ganz so katastrophalen Fehler, der leicher zu beheben ist. Ich hab irgendwo gesehen, dass manchmal auch nur der Gleichrichter stirbt und die Sicherung durchbrennt (2 Teile).
Interesting Robert! Looking forward to the next steps. Regards, Rene-Jean.
Hello René-Jean, it was a bit of a back and forth if I'll actually attempt an repair. But now a decisions has been made and I will order the required parts today or tomorrow. So in a few weeks time you'll see the actual repair video. Best Regards, Robert.
Thanks for sharing I was considering buying and repairing one. Will pass on it.
Yeah, it's too much hustle and too high a risk. Repairing/replacing the power supply is easy, but if something else is broken, things get tricky.
Hallo Robert!
Kannst du mir sagen wo das schwarze Kabel von der WLAN Karte beim Sonos Sub angeschlossen wird?
Gruss
Sven
Hallo Sven, ist jetzt schon über ein Jahr her, das ich das Ding bei mir hatte, und kann mich beim besten willen nicht mehr erinnern. Sorry!
Hello Robert, do you have any idea where I have to connect the black cable from the Sonos Sub WLAN Card? A mouse cut it of. Thanks
Hallo Sven, ist jetzt schon über ein Jahr her, das ich das Ding bei mir hatte, und kann mich beim besten willen nicht mehr erinnern. Sorry!
hi how are you im working on one of these did you by any chance measure the resistors R37 and R76 i can see them in your video but R76 the value looks odd
I'm fine, thanks. And sorry, I have given that sub back to my friend 6 month ago after I repaired it ( th-cam.com/video/Ftuhm3fXoFk/w-d-xo.html ), so I can't really take any measurements on that thing anymore.
Mein Sub ist das nächste Opfer 😑. Vermutlich bietest du keinen Reperatur Service oder? 🙉. Auf jeden Fall Respekt für die Leistung.
Nein, einen Reparaturservice biete ich nicht an 😅, auch wenn ich das Ding am Ende für meinen Freund repariert habe ( th-cam.com/video/Ftuhm3fXoFk/w-d-xo.html ). Es gibt aber in Deutschland einen Anbieter, der Deinen Sonos Sub für pauschal 200€ reparieren ( www.isonatec.de/ ). Hab natürlich keine Ahnung wie gut der ist.
@@robertssmorgasbord da warte ich aktuell auf eine Rückmeldung, bald bin ich schlauer 😆
@@Vailfan OK, lass mich wissen wie die Reparatur lief. Andere Leute interessiert das bestimmt.
Have you ever see someone work on the low voltage side? I have 48vdc on those 2 solder joints in the middle. I tried removing WiFi board but that didn’t work either. Any suggestions?
Sorry, I don't have any suggestions and I've never seen an actual repair being done on the low voltage side (besides checking for loose connectors). Sorry again.
@@robertssmorgasbord I sent it off to a Micro soldering company to replace R37 resistor that was burnt but also go over the whole board and make sure everything is good. I’ll come back and post what happened and if they repaired it I’ll share the company I sent it to. I had a bad ground on my home & bad thunderstorm that took out a lot of electronics including this.
@@jdrais3389 I wish you luck! Plus a good eye to spot any other faults 😉 And yes, please post how it turns out.
@@robertssmorgasbord no good. They diagnosed it and told me that it’s irreparable. Didn’t get into details of why. My guess is it’s just not worth paying to repair when you could purchase new in that scenario.
@@jdrais3389 I'm sorry to hear that! Anyway, thanks for the update.
Habe das gleiche Problem mit meinem Sub und freue mich auf Teil 2 des Videos. Wenn man in bekannten Foren nach dem Problem sucht, findet man doch einige Leute mit dem defektem Netzteil.
Habe selbst auch schon einige Ersatzteile bestellt (Mosfet, Widerstände, Diodenmodul, PWM Controller) aber bin noch nicht soweit das der Sub wieder läuft.
Wenn du hier noch Hilfe beim identifizieren brauchst bin ich gerne bereit zu helfen.
Der Typ des SMD Diodenmoduls würde mich sehr interessieren! Und geb mir bitte Bescheid, ob Deine Reparatur geklappt hat.
Ich habe Tabula Rasa gemacht: Fast alle Teile auf der Primärseite des Netzteils ab-/ausgelötet und ein komplett neues Netzteil draufgeklatscht. Video kommt diese Sonntag raus. Allerdings konnte ich noch nicht den Sound testen. Sa muss ich noch auf das Feedback von meinem Freund warten (hat heute seinen sub wiederbekommen).
@@robertssmorgasbord Das Teil hat den Aufdruck KL3 und ist ein BAT54C. Leider läuft mein Sub noch nicht.
@@christophscherpf4201 Danke für die Info! Geb mir bitte Bescheid wenn Du Deinen Sub zum laufen gebracht hast.
@@robertssmorgasbord Hallo Robert. Mein Sub läuft jetzt wieder. Ich hatte noch ein Problem mit der Ansteuerung vom Gate. Der Widerstand neben dem D3 (BAT54C) war nicht mehr lesbar und ich hatte hier einen falschen Widerstand eingelötet. Zudem war die Lötverbindung zum Gate hin schlecht. Das habe ich nochmal neu gemacht und jetzt läuft es. Ich habe folgendes getauscht: Shunt R27 und R42 , R25 , R71, PWM Controller , Mosfet, R36, D3.
@@christophscherpf4201 Hallo Christoph, großartig! Hatte gerade Deinen anderen Kommentar (externes Netzteil) beantwortet und mich gewundert, ob Du das Original wieder zum Laufen gebracht hast.
Hast Du mir noch die Werte für die Widerstände (ausser den Shunts)?
Can the part you are trying to repair be obtained for replacement instead of repair?
To the best of my knowledge, no 😞 SONOS itself doesn't provide any spare parts and the independent SONOS repair outfits aren't selling any either.
I have a gen 3 but for some reason always thought one of the drivers was passive, they are both powered however?
Yes, at least in the Gen 1 there are two complete amplifier channels. One for each driver.
Def both powered. My GFs started rattling, found a loose heating on one of the chips causing the rattle. Screws were stripped from assembly?! Replaced screws after retapping heatsink. Problem gone
How many ohms are the speaker, I would like to get one and use it with an external amplifier but can someone of you tell me the ohms of the speakers
Sorry, I never measured the impedance of the speakers, since I was only working on the power supply side of things 😞 Plus, I've returned the repaired sub to my friend 2 month ago, and I guess my friend would object to me coming over to take that thing apart again to measure the speaker's impedance 😅
What is TH1 on the board?
Sorry, but what do you mean by "TH1"?
@@robertssmorgasbord component designation by the fuse a MOV
@@lsdave Ah, I totally skipped over that part. Sorry! TH is a thermistor. It's probably there to limit the inrush current (higher resistance when it's cold, when current flows through it and it's warming up its resistance decreases).
is there a way to tap into this to add a second subwoofer to a sonos system, ie a bass transducer?
I guess it's possible. Do we talk about the audio signal, or just the amplifier outputs? The analog audio signal should be available at the connector to the digital board (unless they are using a class D amplifier with an digital input). Connecting a second speaker / transducer to the amplifier output would be experimental and might kill the amplifier. But it should be possible to disconnect one of the subwoofers and use that channel to drive a transducer (with the same impedance). That of course would probably ruin the sound of the SONOS Sub itself.
@@robertssmorgasbord i would just need the audio signal (pre-amp). since sonos allows two subwoofers with an arc, i was thinking maybe you can take a sonos sub that has a working board, and use the audio out from the board to go to the transducer. i would love to see someone more capable than me (i dont know anything lol) to try and experiment with that, especially if say there was a "broken" sonos sub that had damaged woofers themselves but the board was still fine. would it be possible for you to test an audio outsignal to an external amplifier?
@@Harlizzlee Your idea is basically sound. But unfortunately the Sonos Sub in the video is not mine, but that of a friend. So I'm a bit reluctant to experiment with it too much 😅 Besides, the Sonos software requires you to have a complete Sonos system - not just the a sub, but some high/mid-range speakers too - before you can play anything. And I just have the sub. Anyway, meanwhile it has been decided that I'll attempt to repair that thing (video coming up).
If you have a second gen 2 or gen 3 sub, you can add a second sub "officially" - Gen 1 not supported for this config as I understand it. I have 2 gen 3's in my TV room.
Absolute crap brand....
I wouldn't call it crap. I mean the acoustic engineering is probably quite good (can't tell for sure, I'm not an audiophile). Anyway, the service is for sure horrible. But that you are forced to create an account and use an app to configure these things is an absolute no go for me.
@@robertssmorgasbord They didn't use to require any account crap until a few years ago when they decided they needed more revenue and wanted to become a music streaming company too. It's a minor annoyance on the whole, you log in once, don't subscribe to their music service (because why should you), and then forget about it.
In reply to the previous poster, nothing crap about Sonos otherwise btw. Build quality is considerably better than your typical mainstream brands like Sony or Samsung or whatever, and the sound quality is really rather good too - definitely better than consumer offerings from previously mentioned brands, particularly for subwoofer performance. Sonos Sub is really rather excellent, Samsung subs are rattly plastic that struggle even at low volume levels. There's traditional discrete component amps and speakers from that cost less out there that may sound as good or perhaps even better than a Sonos speaker, but will a regular person actually notice that? Also, then you don't get the smart features or the flawless room synching ability to play music all over your home without noticeable delay/lag.
Also, the understated, clean design language of Sonos products is highly appealing to me personally at least. I haven't found anything else out there that checks all the boxes Sonos products can. Apple Homepod for example is even more expensive and has no deep bass to speak of, and so on. There's pros and cons about everything, everyone needs to make their own judgments according to their needs and desires.
Definitely not a crap brand - sure there are some manufacturing decisions here to meet a budget - but it's WAY better built than your average Samsung or Sony sub (also a lot more expensive to be sure - but it's not like you aren't getting what you pay for) - and far more powerful, clean and flexible in a home theatre setup than anything you can get baring going to a full on external amp driven home theatre system - without all the cost and hassle they have.
I'd say they've made some very poor decisions in recent months given their decision to rush out a half baked new version of their app - but the hardware is still class leading.
Also worth noting this is the Gen 1 version of a product that is now up to Gen 3.
What he was trying to do?🤔🥱
He was opening an defect SONOS Sub and pinpointing the defect 😉