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it's always the details 😅 And you're very welcome!

You're welcome 🙂

Sorry, but I can't recommend specific 7-segment displays, because beyond those kits I've never used and. In general I can recommend basically all 7-segment displays that are sold by reputable distributors, e.g. DigiKey. Anything you get from eBay, Amazon, AliExpress etc. is always hit or miss.

@@robertssmorgasbord Thanks..

Thanks! And you're very welcome!

98.02 divided by 0.04 is 2450.5, not 4901 😉 Log 2450.5 is 3.389... times 20 is 67,785... (dB). I'm not quite sure where you get the 4901.

I do hope I'm getting better at machining 😅 I'm still making a (lot of) mistakes. But most of those are caused by either impatience or mental blackouts 🙄 Anyway, I'm two videos ahead of you, and the core parts (shaft, wheel hub and key) do fit together and look reasonably good 🙂

Thanks!

Thanks!

Yup, you made some valid points here. Though LiPoFe3 cell chemistry definitely allows you to charge up to 100%. So 80% of usable capacity would be more realistic.

Ah, sorry, I don't get it 🤔

The diameter for the mounting hole circle is 29mm (3 hole pattern for 3 jaw chuck), respectively, 34mm (4 hole pattern for 4 jaw chuck): suter-meggen.ch/zubehoer/proxxon/sortiment/ersatzteilblaetter/24407%20%20Drehfutter,%2024407,%2024408,%2024410,%2024034,%2024036%2020150204p.pdf The bolts are M5 I believe. Hope that helps.

@@robertssmorgasbord Thank you very much for your reply! That is exactly what I need. Now I know the Proxxon chuck is exactly the same mount as the Emco one and I can order one :) Thanks again for your kind help!

@@WeCanDoThatBetter Your welcome! But keep in mind that I didn't find any information about the centering diameter.

@@robertssmorgasbord I will get a chuck from Proxxon and see if it really fits. I hope it does :)

@@WeCanDoThatBetter I wish you luck! Let me know if it fits.

I'm happy my video was useful to you 🙂 Anyway, most Arduino libraries are created by people who want to use a specific chip in a specific application. in my opinion we need to be thankful, that those people make their code available, even if it's not very well documented. From experience I know that properly documenting code (e.g. a library) can much more time than coding the thing in the first place.

@@robertssmorgasbord Yes, you are so right there. I will be more thankful to the library makers in future! I'm sure I spend more time writing comments than I do code, so I know what you are saying.

@@johnvine5731 Yup! Universities/colleges should offer some classes about software documentation. But at least when I was going to university, some 30 years ago, there was no such thing.

Yup! Most inkjet printers produce a much denser black on transparencies (for inkjets of course), so there's no need to use two transparencies like with laser printers.

You're very welcome!

Well, first of all I'm not a professor 😅 Anyway, following along this series you'll see that keeping the wires short is the key to success. Ideally your measurement electronics are directly connected, respectively, as close as possible to the sensor. After you converted the capacity of the sensor to something digital (or something more robust analog, like 0V to 5V), you can transmit the data over a distance. Connecting the sensor over any lenght of wire to the electronics is not advisable.

Yes, the signal level is all you need to determine if anything is moving (regardless of the speed).

Alright, you improved it with coding. A lot better than it the raw product.

Well, unfortunately my den has some space restrictions, so large scale parallel movements were out of the question. But I walked away and towards the sensor (perpendicular person sized object).

@@malaquias2754 Yup! There's nothing like a bit of filtering to get something out of a somewhat noisy signal.

I'm disassembling my external while watching this video and I'm using 1.3 mm hexagonal screwdriver.

@@redangrybird7564 thanks

Sorry, but I really can't remember - that teardown was five years ago. But according to the comment thread started by michael jhon you'll need a T6 Torx bit. I'd try hex bits if you don't have access to the suitable Torx bits (note that this will ruin the screws).

@@redangrybird7564 Yup! Hex screwdrivers will work, but if you want to go easy on the screws you should use Torx.

@@robertssmorgasbord Thanks

Thanks for the praise and you're very welcome! I just wish Proxxon would ramp up their quality control for the stuff they make in China etc., so you could use it out of the box without the hassle to correctly reassemble it first.

On my unit the pinion set screw was also 10mm, but the hole was deep enough to accommodate it. Unfortunately, they didn't bother to screw it all the way down into the hole, so the pinion wobbled. I fixed everything I could, but I have been unable to get the dovetail shim adjusted so their rotary tool would not wobble. I can choose between not sticking, and not wobbling. And the off-center hole is infuriating, but I'm using the X/Y table which covers it up. So there's that.

You have to use the values 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64 and 128 to set the Segments A, B, C, D, E, F, G and the decimal point 😉

Извините, но все компоненты уже в мусоре и фотографий в высоком разрешении я не сделал. Еще раз извините, что ничем не могу помочь. (Google Переводчик)

Ja, ich bin Deutscher 😉 Regarding your problem: SDA and SCL lines belong to an I2C bus, which is synchronous (SCL - Slave CLock) and incompatible with RS232/UART (Universal Asynchronous Receiver/Transmitter). So I'm sorry to report, that you can't use those FTDI modules to read out your Xbox EEPROM. However, if you want to invest the time and effort, you can get yourself an Arduino (or any other) microcontroller. Those things connects to your PC via USB and have an I2C interface. Though, some programming is required.

It's a Maxim MAX9031. You'll find Limpkin's original schematic at: www.limpkin.fr/index.php?post%2F2013%2F08%2F09%2FMaking-the-electronics-for-a-%247-USD-doppler-motion-sensor

@@robertssmorgasbord thank you very much for helping me!

@@WilliamSantosSilva-hq1fc You're very welcome!

Well, I'm not sure I see the connection. But then, I never was into audio circuitry.

@@robertssmorgasbord Reminder to self to check bogus tech claims about signal transmission from Krell around 2000AD.

@@Dr.acai.jr. Ah, I see. Krell is one of those hyper, high-end audio companies. There claim to fame is "CAST (Current Audio Signal Transmission)". But if I read statements like "CAST enabled products include a transmitter and receiver circuitry that transfers current from an extremely high output impedance (source) to a low-impedance input (load), minimizing the cable’s effect on signal transmission." I get brain cancer - it doesn't make any sense.

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

Well, Doctor, the patient was born with a deficiency and the operation I performed on the patient unfortunately didn't improve his condition 😅

Thanks for the info!

Yup! Especially rough cleaning in between operations and some detailed cleaning (including wiping down all the ways and lead screws with alcohol and re-lubricating them) before putting the thing away most important.

Indeed it did ( th-cam.com/video/P20f-YOoKhw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=L17jbQReztfXwIo7&t=762 ) 😉

Well, the manual states to just use oil on that machine. But I think you are right, grease would have been an option.

I actually thought about sawing away some of the access material on my little table saw. I did that before on another POM part in another project. In hindsight I should have done it.

Well, since I don't know anything about wood turning, I'm not really qualified to answer your question. Anyway, the Proxxon PD 250/E is definitely not intended for wood turning, it's made for metals (and plastics). That said, I don't see any reason why you couldn't, in principle, turn wood on it. However, the handling would be very different from something like a Proxxon DB 250, starting with the fact that you have a chuck on one side and not a spiky carrier (don't know how that thing is called on a woodturning lathe). And then there's of course the question of cutting tool. The Proxxon PD 250/E is designed to accept tool steels with 8mm x 8mm square shafts. I don't thing you can get wood turning tools with such shafts, so would have to make your own.

Funny coincident: Just a few days ago I stumbled about a APC Smart-UPS 750 that did exactly the same thing. We shut it off and disconnected it from AC mains in preparation of a power shutdown in the building. When we reconnected it and tried to switch it back on again it just stayed dead (all LEDs stayed off). The thing is these smaller APC Smart UPSs just die after 5 to 10 years. And I'm sorry, but I can't even guess why your unit died. And since there are no circuit diagrams available, trying to repair these things is guesswork, unless there is visible damage to some components. Again, sorry I can't be of more help.

These are really interesting questions. First, a disclaimer: I have absolutely no experience with automatic/robotic cleaners/vacuums. With that out of the way ... Magnetic/compass sensors of any kind are out of the question for your application. There's no way you can shield/compensate for the changing magnetic fields in the environment. As I understand it most robotic vacuums use a combination of sensors: cameras, LIDAR, gyroscopes and accelerometers. One chip (that I know of) that combines gyroscopes and accelerometers is the TDK MPU-6050: invensense.tdk.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/MPU-6000-Datasheet1.pdf . Anyway, good luck with your project.

Nope, you'll need a pulsed radar to obtain range information (time difference between transmitted pulse and received reflection).

Kennst Du zufällig einen besseren Hersteller als Bungard? Ich kenne noch Proma und Rademacher.

Terima kasih kembali! (Google translate)

Back in March I was enjoying the beach and the food in Dénia for a week 😄 And, yes, I avoided Eastern (the number of Madrileños flooding the city during Eastern is unbelievable). And of course you can't go there in the summer, because there are too much tourists and it's far too hot for my taste. Anyway, next week it's just some maintenance on my lathe's tailstock. After that it's back to the project (turning the shaft on the lathe).

You're welcome🙂 In my opinion there's really nothing wrong with analog meters in certain applications. Besides, the look cool 😉

Wow, you make me blush😅 I do have to admit that I had some help back then. Got some of the parts from a telecommunication technician who lived in the same house. Did some odd jobs for him later on (e.g. testing the design of some D/A boards). Good times!

@@robertssmorgasbordYou were very fortunate to have a mentor for your hobby.

@@Sodbusterrod Yes, indeed I was! Of course I didn't realized it back then, but it's extremely important to have such people in your life when you're growing up.

Yup, your absolutely right! My bad! It's based on the magnetoresistive effect, not the hall effect.