Good video, very informative, the problem you were having with the solder not sticking was the lack of flux. Flux cleans any contamination off as it melts resulting in a very good bond first time. also the iron should be held beneath the connection as heat rises it will heat the terminals and then the solder resulting in a much stronger bond that will last much longer. HTH.
Thank you for the post on how repair of my battery pack. It was so easy to replace. I search the whole intent for a replacement battery. Now I want look for a couple more bad battery’s to have on hand and fix. I have a spectrum XLT detector. Just so happy to go scanning again.
Also, just can across this detail information on White’s battery pack description: The White's 12V NiCad Battery fits White's DFX, XLT, MXT, QXT, M6, Classic 4, Classic 5ID, GMT & Sierra Madre/ULA-3 machines. I hope this helps some people out there.
I really appreciate the video. So, I am very electronically savvy with batteries. I have a White’s Classic Metal Detector. My White’s metal detector uses eight AA batteries that are 1.5 Volts each. I checked the voltage with a voltmeter of all the batteries in my battery pack the reading is 12 Volts. So, I am certain that you actually needed 12 Volt battery pack rather than the 9.2 Volt battery pack that you are using. I hope this information helps someone.
The rechargeable cells that whites used were regular 1.2 volt rechargeable NiCD (Nickel Cadmium) type. 8 x 1.2 = 9.6 volt. He got a similar rated 9.6 volt rechargeable pack. 1.5 volt is what your Alcaline are reading in your AA Alkaline battery pack.
Excellent vid, I will be taking on this little project this weekend. My DFX batteries will only hold around 3 hours charge right now, gotta sort the thing out.
Hi Scotty j, just finished doing it the way you suggested by just snipping the connection off and soldering the red and black wires to the terminals and it works fine. Everything still fits inside OK. Its charging as I type.
I went with the same type of battery, nicd, I think it's a 1000mih. I got it off of ebay for $5.99 free shipping. You can get the batteries 2 at a time for about $10.00 with free shipping. When you go to ebay, type in 7.2 battery packs and the radio control section and hundreds of these will pop up. It will tear up your charger or battery if you don't use the correct battery/charger. It saves a lot of money. Thanks and keep watching my videos!
Hi. Thank you for taking the time to make and upload this video, I really appreciate it. I have an old white's Eagle Spectrum which has just started faulting. If you know anything about what I'm about to describe I would really appreciate your feedback. Sometimes the machine won't turn on, other times it will turn on but then switch itself off. Very frustrating. To a novice like me it sounds like a dry joint or something of that nature, I put in brand new batteries which made no difference at all. It must be a circuitry problem I'm guessing. Many thanks for any help you may be able to offer. Regards Chris, Perth Western Australia.
Also, each AA 1.5 Volt battery in this type of battery pack are in series. So, therefore you would sum volts in series: 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 +1.5 = 12 Volt battery pack.
couldn't you just snip the connector off the new pack? and then solder the pos. and neg wire to the old case red is pos. and black is neg, the only thing is youll have a little extra wire in the pack(case) or is there a special reason you did it the way you did ?
Dang Dude you made that look like effort. Should had just cut the battery wires and Soldered them to the Connectors. Heat your Work and let the solder AND FLUX flow. I'll be doing the same for my GMT but use LiIon batteries.
Thanks for checking out my video. I was trying to hurry up and did not let the prong heat up enough and let the solder run through it, you were right. Thanks again.
ama worker I went to ebay and googled the 7.2v battery packs. They have a lot of prices and batteries. I suggest you find the one that matches the same amps and battery you have. it should say on the inside of your metal detector battery pack. i hope this helps, thanks.
Does anyone know the exact mAh rating from the original White's battery pack. I would like to match it with a substitute of equal or greater rating. Nice video thanks
Very useful video. I am thinking of buying this detector and since they have not been sold for some time, I expect any unit I buy will have dead batteries. Could you perhaps include that website for the batteries in your notes below the video? Thanks! Fenderstratguy
PS: I've rebuilt several batteries for Neuton electric lawnmowers this way. I would suggest viewers just snip the new pack's connector end off, then solder the new red and black wires to the plus and minus chrome tabs of the pack. I don't like to disturb factory solder on the cell if I can help it.
Good video, very informative, the problem you were having with the solder not sticking was the lack of flux. Flux cleans any contamination off as it melts resulting in a very good bond first time. also the iron should be held beneath the connection as heat rises it will heat the terminals and then the solder resulting in a much stronger bond that will last much longer. HTH.
Thank you for the post on how repair of my battery pack. It was so easy to replace. I search the whole intent for a replacement battery. Now I want look for a couple more bad battery’s to have on hand and fix. I have a spectrum XLT detector. Just so happy to go scanning again.
Also, just can across this detail information on White’s battery pack description: The White's 12V NiCad Battery fits White's DFX, XLT, MXT, QXT, M6, Classic 4, Classic 5ID, GMT & Sierra Madre/ULA-3 machines. I hope this helps some people out there.
thank you for your tutorial, saved a bunch of money. i bought a 9.6v nimh, not the nicad, i think they have a longer life. worked like a charm.
Frieda Balavage where did you get the battery from
I really appreciate the video. So, I am very electronically savvy with batteries. I have a White’s Classic Metal Detector. My White’s metal detector uses eight AA batteries that are 1.5 Volts each. I checked the voltage with a voltmeter of all the batteries in my battery pack the reading is 12 Volts. So, I am certain that you actually needed 12 Volt battery pack rather than the 9.2 Volt battery pack that you are using. I hope this information helps someone.
The rechargeable cells that whites used were regular 1.2 volt rechargeable NiCD (Nickel Cadmium) type. 8 x 1.2 = 9.6 volt. He got a similar rated 9.6 volt rechargeable pack. 1.5 volt is what your Alcaline are reading in your AA Alkaline battery pack.
Why not just solder the wires to the metal strips?
Got to laugh at the nitpickers 🙄 I think we all got what we need to do.Great video,much appreciated...Thanks
Excellent vid, I will be taking on this little project this weekend. My DFX batteries will only hold around 3 hours charge right now, gotta sort the thing out.
I would appreciate if someone tells me where I can buy this type of batteries. Thank you
Hi Scotty j, just finished doing it the way you suggested by just snipping the connection off and soldering the red and black wires to the terminals and it works fine. Everything still fits inside OK. Its charging as I type.
I went with the same type of battery, nicd, I think it's a 1000mih. I got it off of ebay for $5.99 free shipping. You can get the batteries 2 at a time for about $10.00 with free shipping. When you go to ebay, type in 7.2 battery packs and the radio control section and hundreds of these will pop up. It will tear up your charger or battery if you don't use the correct battery/charger. It saves a lot of money. Thanks and keep watching my videos!
Hi. Thank you for taking the time to make and upload this video, I really appreciate it.
I have an old white's Eagle Spectrum which has just started faulting. If you know anything about what I'm about to describe I would really appreciate your feedback.
Sometimes the machine won't turn on, other times it will turn on but then switch itself off. Very frustrating. To a novice like me it sounds like a dry joint or something of that nature, I put in brand new batteries which made no difference at all. It must be a circuitry problem I'm guessing. Many thanks for any help you may be able to offer. Regards Chris, Perth Western Australia.
Also, each AA 1.5 Volt battery in this type of battery pack are in series. So, therefore you would sum volts in series: 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 +1.5 = 12 Volt battery pack.
That was a great and very informative video. I also have an XLT and love it.
couldn't you just snip the connector off the new pack? and then solder the pos. and neg wire to the old case red is pos. and black is neg, the only thing is youll have a little extra wire in the pack(case)
or is there a special reason you did it the way you did ?
Excellent. A website where they sell NiMH batteries ?
you got that real hot.. so you have to wait longer to cool. also use a flux pen and pre-clean the terminal.
Dang Dude you made that look like effort. Should had just cut the battery wires and Soldered them to the Connectors. Heat your Work and let the solder AND FLUX flow.
I'll be doing the same for my GMT but use LiIon batteries.
Thanks for checking out my video. I was trying to hurry up and did not let the prong heat up enough and let the solder run through it, you were right. Thanks again.
excellent video thanks for the great idea.
Where can i just BUY a battery pack to plug into the 1974 whites coinmaster i have ?
Between moves I have lost my 802-5211 rechargeable battery and use 2) 802-7150 "AA" battery packs. Do you know where I could purchase a used 802-5211?
i have the same xlt and battery pack you are working on in your vid
I don't know what I was thinking but the battery that you can buy off ebay is a 9.6V nicd 1000mih. It's NOT a 7.2V.
I am from Spain.
Can 14.4v also be used in a Whites Spectra Vx3?
Hola, al final como lo hicistes? tengo un DFX y tengo que arreglar la bateria tambien.
where on the net did you get that new battery the part number and place
ama worker I went to ebay and googled the 7.2v battery packs. They have a lot of prices and batteries. I suggest you find the one that matches the same amps and battery you have. it should say on the inside of your metal detector battery pack. i hope this helps, thanks.
ama worker thank you
Flux, and like said previous, you want to heat the metal not the solder
Does anyone know the exact mAh rating from the original White's battery pack. I would like to match it with a substitute of equal or greater rating. Nice video thanks
Rocko Easy 1800 now they are selling a hd version using samebatt on this video
thanks!!!
thank you
Very useful video. I am thinking of buying this detector and since they have not been sold for some time, I expect any unit I buy will have dead batteries. Could you perhaps include that website for the batteries in your notes below the video? Thanks! Fenderstratguy
PS: I've rebuilt several batteries for Neuton electric lawnmowers this way. I would suggest viewers just snip the new pack's connector end off, then solder the new red and black wires to the plus and minus chrome tabs of the pack. I don't like to disturb factory solder on the cell if I can help it.
FLUX!