Got it I need to clean em up a bit For example the 25 minute video I did took me 5 days hardcore to edit lol. This one I barely did it’s just too long So I think I’ll edit a bit more but keep the detail
After watching your videos especially cornering, i have drastically improved my skills! Keeping that core engaged, tilt and twist! 👌🏻oh also that pedal pressing part keep me planted all the time.
Detailed format please!! I love it! Makes me rationalise things that i do and why i do it instead of just copying what they tell me to do! Amazing job!
Great video! Especially the explanation on how to position your feet to help to relax the upper body and thighten your core. But there's too many details to grasp for me. When I'll actually try to do it, first I'll do it all wrong then I will just be able to apply one or two advise. No more. Then little by little with time... You know... Thank you very much. You help me improve.
Frankly this would take 3-5 hours to drill in person with most riders, and that would only give you an intro. I structure these mostly for people who are missing one thing, but it can also be v helpful if you want to build from the ground up
For sure! Both of them are. I’d love to so cool ppl like you can catch the vibes - also I’m thinking through privacy stuff. I’ll prob make something :)
Wow - epic I wish I had t-shirts or some merch...tell ya what when I get some, (you'll see an announcement or a link) send me a comment and I'll find a way to send you some as a thank you :)
I really like your videos, and this may be a dumb question, but …. your tag line is training 10,000 riders. What exactly do you mean by that? Do you do in person instruction or is it exclusively TH-cam? What is the significance of 10,000?
@@mountainbikeacademy i have it feels a little wonky like ive been on my friends full sus and i feel like i can get the whole movement a lot better than on my hardtail but i cant seem to understand why :c
@@mountainbikeacademy I've never seen a level berm? Are you calling a Supported Turn, a Level Berm? I'm looking for clarification here. ... to keep your pedals level (cranks and pedals) is the absolute safest way (and correct way) to ride berms. On a steep berm, lowering a pedal can lead to insane high side washouts due to loss of traction from the lowered outside foot. If coming thru a berm with speed, the rider will be level in relation to the terrain, applying equal pressure to both pedals, which results in maximum traction. Lowering pedals on legit berms is flat out dangerous.
Watching the pedal press section and you mentioned no need to be embarrassed because no one will know you are practicing. Why should anyone be embarrassed about practicing? I’m new to MTBing but I’ve played numerous individual and team sports. Practicing has never been something we should be embarrassed about, ever ,in any sport ive ever participated in. Is this something people are shamed for in this community? Strange if so, let’s change that.
IMO, a lot of beginner bikes have bad weight distro. The front wheel has a lot of weight on it, especially in smaller sizes, and will make getting the butt back further feel better for most skills to compensate for that. The alternative: longer travel forks with slacker HTA*, which pushes the front wheel out further to correct the weight distro issue (not too far, else you'll be forced to weight the front, esp in XL with short chainstays). The catch is that these bikes tend to be heavy and call for slow tires, greatly increasing the fitness requirement, shortening how long you can stay outside riding. You'd seek a shuttle, lift, motor, etc. to compensate. Long story short, beginner bikes (e.g. light XC/trail bikes) are going to be less intuitive to learn these skills on, unless you happen to be on some of the newer "downcountry bikes" (e.g. Transition Spur) that combine enduro geo with light parts, and you're lucky to not be a shorty (fit comfortably on size L). Just beware that it requires time to reposition yourself, and forces you to prioritize and commit to a technique for that section, as you are unlikely to be able to adjust to anything else (forced to just hold on and become a passenger). If you're on a beginner bike, you can still try learning. Just try with the hips further back than you think is right. Try to hover your butt where the saddle would be if it were still up, and consider that the "normal/default" position, but consider going even further back. Such a position is weaker than a stronger upright position, and you likely would have to unlearn it if you move up to more capable geo, which are made capable through "modern" geo taking advantage of a stronger position and heavier duty parts. IMO, the more futuristic bikes make the standing pedaling position the central position, which tends to be one of the most relaxed positions to hold, and the most balanced and ready to perform new techniques from. Veteran riders will appreciate the time saved from needing to return to a strong balanced position, from a rearward position (like one the beginner bikes call for), as it enables them to perform many moves sequentially with minimal prep/anticipation time. This is on top of the energy saved from not needing to hold an unnaturally rearward position, and energy and time saved from needing to return to a more centered position to pedal and lift/unweight the front wheel. * to elaborate on optimal weight distro, I find it's a function of where the BB is centered between the axles, for roughly a 60:40 split of rider/system weight over the rear axle and front axle. Simply put, you want chainstay length to be somewhat proportional to the wheelbase (more accurately, the rear center to front center lengths). I find that a bike with 1150mm wheelbase would want a CS length of around 415mm for good weight distro when standing with most weight on the crank spindle, while a 1250mm WB would call for a 440mm CS (Spesh Enduro in S3). This is seemingly able to be extrapolated, as I found 1230mm WB bikes with 435mm CS, 1210WB w/430, 1190 w/425, etc. to be fairly close to optimal, to the point that I'm confident that a 1050mm wheelbase bike (BMX/DJ) would be good with a 380mm CS. Confirmed by demo'ing bikes in various sizes, to find which size handled most intuitively from my naturally strong yet relaxed standing position (e.g. size L Santa Cruz handled more intuitively than M, while M Yeti SB150 was better than L, while other Yeti models handled better in L). To top it, I commissioned my own custom geo frame with sliding dropouts to explore this. I basically think of the hips, shoulders, hands, and feet as forming sort of a diamond profile when viewed from side, and that modern geo is phasing out the short and wide diamond of old XC bikes with a taller and narrower diamond profile.
I had to read it twice, lots packed in there. My favorite part was your last few sentences where you actually built a sliding dropouts - I had a specialized p2 and a transition bank with C.R.A.P. (concentrically rotating something something, funny) and I only had issues with the bikes being too short. I'm 6'3" with a LONG torso and long ish arms(I have nearly a 6'8" wingspan) and I feel comfortable on my transition bank, old school Santa Cruz Bronson (my favorite one), I *like* the XL Intense Primer...I even have a blast on my Trek Ticket S. IMO the best thing a shorter/regular sized rider can do is size down and play with stem/bar combos that fit. I'm actually quite comfortable with longer bikes with a "bad" front end ratio, and I tend to enjoy adapting myself to the bike. Also...I'm not a super picky DH racer risking my neck for a 6 figure check and I'm 80% fun 20% speed that wins kinda guy. But yeah I agree some modern bikes are weird shaped. Thanks!
cornering position really depends on how fast you wanna go and on what kind terrain you are riding. the fastest position you can go on a flat corner on a very loose surface is to get your outside foot all the way to the bottom of your pedal and get your other leg ready to kick the ground when necessary. my point is that there is no one position that fits all types of corners. just sayin
![The 12 "Backwards" MTB Basics for Beginners [The RIGHT Way - 4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IfwwgTkrTU4/mqdefault.jpg)
Please keep the details, it really makes a positive difference.
Thanks!
Got it
I need to clean em up a bit
For example the 25 minute video I did took me 5 days hardcore to edit lol. This one I barely did it’s just too long
So I think I’ll edit a bit more but keep the detail
After watching your videos especially cornering, i have drastically improved my skills! Keeping that core engaged, tilt and twist! 👌🏻oh also that pedal pressing part keep me planted all the time.
Great to hear!
Share this with a riding buddy and like the channel!
Detailed format please!!
I love it! Makes me rationalise things that i do and why i do it instead of just copying what they tell me to do! Amazing job!
Noted! I’ll be doing more of these
These kind of format with a lot of detailed explanation is EXACTLY what I need, greetings from 🇵🇪
Greetings! I try to do a mix of shorter / super detailed. Thanks for tuning in! Hope it works for ya.
Love this detail. I’m a beginner.
This is great! Keep up the good work. I appreciate all the detail
Thanks, will do!
Great video! Especially the explanation on how to position your feet to help to relax the upper body and thighten your core. But there's too many details to grasp for me. When I'll actually try to do it, first I'll do it all wrong then I will just be able to apply one or two advise. No more. Then little by little with time... You know... Thank you very much. You help me improve.
Frankly this would take 3-5 hours to drill in person with most riders, and that would only give you an intro.
I structure these mostly for people who are missing one thing, but it can also be v helpful if you want to build from the ground up
Excellent, love the detailed analysis and esp the replay sequencing.
I like the detail in this type of video. 😊
Supet format with details! Keep doing ❤
Awesome video. Thanks so much. I completely saw myself locking all muscles when breaking.
Glad it helped!
braking vs breaking
Is your son allready a shredder? I would like to see a video with both of you 😃
For sure! Both of them are. I’d love to so cool ppl like you can catch the vibes - also I’m thinking through privacy stuff. I’ll prob make something :)
Awesome videos, thx! I will make sure and share with our group. The pedal press is very helpful!
Awesome, thank you! It's nothing really new. Just sharing. Hope it helps your group a ton!
Actually I shared your channel to about 20k mtbers.
Wow - epic
I wish I had t-shirts or some merch...tell ya what when I get some, (you'll see an announcement or a link) send me a comment and I'll find a way to send you some as a thank you :)
Sounds great!! I will keep your material coming to help our new riders.
I really like your videos, and this may be a dumb question, but …. your tag line is training 10,000 riders. What exactly do you mean by that? Do you do in person instruction or is it exclusively TH-cam? What is the significance of 10,000?
It’s basically how many I would like to have in my membership
But I want it to be inspiring to you/others it’s not about me ;)
so if in a hardtail when i compress the bike down, no hands? i should just do it with my feet/body motion?
Well instead of saying what you should do- have you tried playing with it? See how it feels. Should be effortless if you get it
@@mountainbikeacademy i have it feels a little wonky like ive been on my friends full sus and i feel like i can get the whole movement a lot better than on my hardtail but i cant seem to understand why :c
21:30 NOW THATS A RACE FACE!!!
Goofy haha
Did I hear you correctly? Did you say to lower a pedal on berms in a bike park?
You *can* do a dropped outside foot on a level berm. Most of the time you'll be best off if you keep the pedals (cranks) level with the horizon IMO.
@@mountainbikeacademy I've never seen a level berm? Are you calling a Supported Turn, a Level Berm? I'm looking for clarification here. ... to keep your pedals level (cranks and pedals) is the absolute safest way (and correct way) to ride berms. On a steep berm, lowering a pedal can lead to insane high side washouts due to loss of traction from the lowered outside foot. If coming thru a berm with speed, the rider will be level in relation to the terrain, applying equal pressure to both pedals, which results in maximum traction. Lowering pedals on legit berms is flat out dangerous.
Watching the pedal press section and you mentioned no need to be embarrassed because no one will know you are practicing. Why should anyone be embarrassed about practicing? I’m new to MTBing but I’ve played numerous individual and team sports. Practicing has never been something we should be embarrassed about, ever ,in any sport ive ever participated in. Is this something people are shamed for in this community? Strange if so, let’s change that.
Nobody actually is embarrassed lol
Your like a little albino t-rex with your shirt off. Just kidding man, great video
haha my armspan is 78" so more like a slim gorilla
@@mountainbikeacademy or one of those hairless cats
IMO, a lot of beginner bikes have bad weight distro. The front wheel has a lot of weight on it, especially in smaller sizes, and will make getting the butt back further feel better for most skills to compensate for that. The alternative: longer travel forks with slacker HTA*, which pushes the front wheel out further to correct the weight distro issue (not too far, else you'll be forced to weight the front, esp in XL with short chainstays). The catch is that these bikes tend to be heavy and call for slow tires, greatly increasing the fitness requirement, shortening how long you can stay outside riding. You'd seek a shuttle, lift, motor, etc. to compensate.
Long story short, beginner bikes (e.g. light XC/trail bikes) are going to be less intuitive to learn these skills on, unless you happen to be on some of the newer "downcountry bikes" (e.g. Transition Spur) that combine enduro geo with light parts, and you're lucky to not be a shorty (fit comfortably on size L). Just beware that it requires time to reposition yourself, and forces you to prioritize and commit to a technique for that section, as you are unlikely to be able to adjust to anything else (forced to just hold on and become a passenger).
If you're on a beginner bike, you can still try learning. Just try with the hips further back than you think is right. Try to hover your butt where the saddle would be if it were still up, and consider that the "normal/default" position, but consider going even further back. Such a position is weaker than a stronger upright position, and you likely would have to unlearn it if you move up to more capable geo, which are made capable through "modern" geo taking advantage of a stronger position and heavier duty parts. IMO, the more futuristic bikes make the standing pedaling position the central position, which tends to be one of the most relaxed positions to hold, and the most balanced and ready to perform new techniques from. Veteran riders will appreciate the time saved from needing to return to a strong balanced position, from a rearward position (like one the beginner bikes call for), as it enables them to perform many moves sequentially with minimal prep/anticipation time. This is on top of the energy saved from not needing to hold an unnaturally rearward position, and energy and time saved from needing to return to a more centered position to pedal and lift/unweight the front wheel.
* to elaborate on optimal weight distro, I find it's a function of where the BB is centered between the axles, for roughly a 60:40 split of rider/system weight over the rear axle and front axle. Simply put, you want chainstay length to be somewhat proportional to the wheelbase (more accurately, the rear center to front center lengths). I find that a bike with 1150mm wheelbase would want a CS length of around 415mm for good weight distro when standing with most weight on the crank spindle, while a 1250mm WB would call for a 440mm CS (Spesh Enduro in S3). This is seemingly able to be extrapolated, as I found 1230mm WB bikes with 435mm CS, 1210WB w/430, 1190 w/425, etc. to be fairly close to optimal, to the point that I'm confident that a 1050mm wheelbase bike (BMX/DJ) would be good with a 380mm CS. Confirmed by demo'ing bikes in various sizes, to find which size handled most intuitively from my naturally strong yet relaxed standing position (e.g. size L Santa Cruz handled more intuitively than M, while M Yeti SB150 was better than L, while other Yeti models handled better in L). To top it, I commissioned my own custom geo frame with sliding dropouts to explore this. I basically think of the hips, shoulders, hands, and feet as forming sort of a diamond profile when viewed from side, and that modern geo is phasing out the short and wide diamond of old XC bikes with a taller and narrower diamond profile.
I had to read it twice, lots packed in there. My favorite part was your last few sentences where you actually built a sliding dropouts - I had a specialized p2 and a transition bank with C.R.A.P. (concentrically rotating something something, funny) and I only had issues with the bikes being too short.
I'm 6'3" with a LONG torso and long ish arms(I have nearly a 6'8" wingspan) and I feel comfortable on my transition bank, old school Santa Cruz Bronson (my favorite one), I *like* the XL Intense Primer...I even have a blast on my Trek Ticket S.
IMO the best thing a shorter/regular sized rider can do is size down and play with stem/bar combos that fit. I'm actually quite comfortable with longer bikes with a "bad" front end ratio, and I tend to enjoy adapting myself to the bike.
Also...I'm not a super picky DH racer risking my neck for a 6 figure check and I'm 80% fun 20% speed that wins kinda guy.
But yeah I agree some modern bikes are weird shaped. Thanks!
cornering position really depends on how fast you wanna go and on what kind terrain you are riding.
the fastest position you can go on a flat corner on a very loose surface is to get your outside foot all the way to the bottom of your pedal and get your other leg ready to kick the ground when necessary.
my point is that there is no one position that fits all types of corners. just sayin
and if you corner on berms with your foot all the way down, why even build berms or ride on berms in the first place?
Because it’s fun
I think on extremely sharp corners you’re right
And some people prefer what you’re saying. Nbd.