Creating a 123 Tune+ Curve

How to enter a 123 Tune+ curve including changing the units. mmHg to kPa to Absolute pressure (Pa)
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Please note:
I am not sponsored nor do I make money from these videos. But the link to the manufacturer for any Datsun L6 engine is here (they also sell units for the L4): 123ignitionusa...

[@alienpoker]

The above example was for a 260Z engine N/A unmodified and enough to get you going with your twin SUs. Idle would be set between 750-900 rpm, and you should see about 8 or 9 degrees of advance at idle. These engines do love advance... total at the highest RPM limit you plan to run should not be more than 35 degrees (or so) without engine mods. Setting 8000 at 37+ and then setting a Max RPM in 123/tune is an elegant way to do this. It does a ‘random spark cut’ to keep your RPM at the max setting (say 6500 !?!) in case you miss a shift or stomp on it hard. If you don’t follow sensible settings and blow your engine or throw a rocker, it’s on *you*. I’m just a guy in my garage.
Someday I plan to continue this with a diagram from my engine swap. Going to a full race stroker engine and showing the curve running. Plus actual 300+ HP Dyno results. That’s not bad for a NA engine built from what started as a 2.8L block and E88 head.

[@shanegrant8836]

Did you set any static advance when using your 123, or are you doing it all via the software control?

[@alienpoker]

No. I set it so the 123tune app matches exactly with what a timing light says, I’d only set a static advance if you have a problem with idle.

[@smiller871]

A BIG thank you for posting this video. Yours is the first video that I have found that demonstrates how to program the app for the 123 distributor.
I did have a question. After you create a customized curve and save it, how do you then implement that particular file? I'm with you ,when you get to the options of: open, copy,share,and delete,but how do you select a particular file and run it on your distributor?
Thank again Stewart

[@alienpoker]

That’s what Read and Write does on the Right side of the Curves Tab. Read lets you Read in any file to the editor. Write should send it to the Distributor and make it current when the car is in ACC.
Obviously you can’t swap complete curves with the engine running. Only one file is ever current on the Distributor for the Bluetooth version. But you can store other curves that you have tried. Or keep one curve tuned for better gas milage and cruising, and a different one tuned for the race track or canyon driving.
As a side note: the USB only 123/Tune Distributor can hold two curves, and you upload them only by using a USB cable. Then you can swap between them by grounding (or supplying +12v) to a yellow wire coming out of the unit. I like that solution less, but it seems legit and would be robust for racing cars. You wire up a switch which you can activate to swap curves. These could be cruise to track/race. Or even to swap for fuels like Ethanol vs Regular.
I find the BT version of the App isn’t updated or maintained that well for such an expensive product.

[@Fredovsky]

Thanks for the video. One question, shouldn't the MAP curve starts at 12° at 0kPa, stays 12° until the break point and only then go down to zero ? You may be correct just your MAP curve looks quite different from other MAP curve found elsewhere. Thanks for the clarification !

[@seanmurray2232]

1 Bar = 14.5 PSI (not 29 PSI )