If you're doing a lot of these, wouldn't it make sense to have a thick card template for cutting out the carbon fibre? You could minimise carbon waste. The templates could be kept with the moulds. How did you determine the number of layers? Is there a rule of thumb or is it trial and error? Also have you found any advantage degassing the resin before infusion? Sorry for all the questions.
Hello David, the first layer is just cut by eye as all the off cuts still get used, the more templates you keep in stock the more stuff you have to store, so its just not actually worth it. Layer wise about 5 layers of 2x2 or less with a combination of different weights. I actually showed the air still in the resin and the way I do the infusion there is no need to degass, I have tried that with a degassing chamber and all it proved was just another load of time on the job and less working time with the resin. I saw no benefit in the finished part. Some may say different I can only say whats works for me. I hope this helps and thanks for your comments
Nice parts again! I'm a fan of the resin break method but like your gum tape theory, theres no real right or wrong way if the finished part turnes out how you want. Is that a black hot glue gun? Thats new to me. I like it.
Hello Michael, yes I do, I dont know why anyone would do it any other way tbh? if you look at 2:18 in the vid you can see me literally wiping the surface with my hand after its been left 24 hours to cure. I have seen some people applying the fabric when the gelcoat is still tacky which to me is just creating lots of hazards and risks.
@@autoflockmotorsport7730 That seems cheap for the work you put into it...I am just about to start this journey and already have difficulties lol.Doing hydrographics for 6 years and just want something different as well
Hi, you say you use semi perm release agent and get 5-10 pulls. I guess this helps with gel coat fisheyeing. Is that chem or wax? But do you cure your parts at high temp in mould? I worry not applying release agent every pull when I take the moulds to 60deg each time.
wax i have found weak with post curing, semi is fine and i have found the pulls during the middle are the best, i mean if I have just applied the coat of release, the first one will be a little stubborn. But from then on its a doddle to release, as soon as it gets stubborn again then its time to re-apply.
top tip, when possible, stand the part up and pull vacuum at the highest point, tends to keep air inclusions down.
This is why your roof vent is on my list of things to buy!
Me to mate , I’m deffo having one ☝️
Many thanks
Really nice work 👍
Thank you Nick
Good job 👏
Seems you're we'll learned
Love this,
I'm just starting on carbon products and procedures, I've learned a lot
ThanxMost
Many thanks
Nice work!
Thanks very much
Thanks for the video
No problem 🙂
Hello, may I ask if there will be residual glue when using "aerofix3", and is there anything to pay attention to in the amount of spraying?
as long as you dont go over the top with it all traces are removed as it dissolves with the epoxy
If you're doing a lot of these, wouldn't it make sense to have a thick card template for cutting out the carbon fibre? You could minimise carbon waste. The templates could be kept with the moulds.
How did you determine the number of layers? Is there a rule of thumb or is it trial and error?
Also have you found any advantage degassing the resin before infusion?
Sorry for all the questions.
Hello David, the first layer is just cut by eye as all the off cuts still get used, the more templates you keep in stock the more stuff you have to store, so its just not actually worth it. Layer wise about 5 layers of 2x2 or less with a combination of different weights. I actually showed the air still in the resin and the way I do the infusion there is no need to degass, I have tried that with a degassing chamber and all it proved was just another load of time on the job and less working time with the resin. I saw no benefit in the finished part. Some may say different I can only say whats works for me. I hope this helps and thanks for your comments
Nice parts again! I'm a fan of the resin break method but like your gum tape theory, theres no real right or wrong way if the finished part turnes out how you want. Is that a black hot glue gun? Thats new to me. I like it.
Yes mate, much hotter temp and the glue sticks are far superior to clear ones imo
@@autoflockmotorsport7730 I’m gonna look into that. Thanks.
@@ajhartmanaero i will pm you the details mate
did you let the gel coat completely cure before moving forward?
Hello Michael, yes I do, I dont know why anyone would do it any other way tbh? if you look at 2:18 in the vid you can see me literally wiping the surface with my hand after its been left 24 hours to cure. I have seen some people applying the fabric when the gelcoat is still tacky which to me is just creating lots of hazards and risks.
How much are these going for .?
At time of posting this £245 delivered (been that price for 6 years) trying to keep competitive but its a struggle with rising material prices
@@autoflockmotorsport7730 That seems cheap for the work you put into it...I am just about to start this journey and already have difficulties lol.Doing hydrographics for 6 years and just want something different as well
Hi, you say you use semi perm release agent and get 5-10 pulls. I guess this helps with gel coat fisheyeing. Is that chem or wax?
But do you cure your parts at high temp in mould?
I worry not applying release agent every pull when I take the moulds to 60deg each time.
wax i have found weak with post curing, semi is fine and i have found the pulls during the middle are the best, i mean if I have just applied the coat of release, the first one will be a little stubborn. But from then on its a doddle to release, as soon as it gets stubborn again then its time to re-apply.