[PODCAST] EP 6: What Do Creative Directors Do? (Pharrell Williams Appointed to Louis Vuitton)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.พ. 2023
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What is a creative director? What do creative directors do? Do they sew? Do they sketch? Is it a good idea for Louis Vuitton to hire Pharrell Williams as their new menswear creative director? Why are so many people upset? + a little lighthearted storytime.
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Follow Robin Givhan here: instagram.com/robingivhan/ or here: twitter.com/RobinGivhan
I agree. People are still mourning the loss of Virgil and LV hiring a CD out of the cultural familiarity to what Virgil brought to the table there would've been awkward feelings toward the brand, almost as if LV was purposefully trying to forget him. One things for sure there's going to be serious pressure on Pharrell in June. I hope he delivers.
What The Creative director at my job does: gossip and cursing other employees loudly and he is supported by his boss, lies to cover his ass, micro manages everything from tusk till dark wrongly causing constant bottleneck burdens in the work flow, gives erroneous comments how to fix fits, fishing all day long for compliments, what can I say....we are having a blast here! wishing luck to Pharrell Williams!
HAHAHA ok I literally laughed out loud. I'm so sorry you have a CD like that! I had a boss who would lock us in 5 hour meetings to go over buttons ad nauseum. Good times.
Zoe is making very interesting analyses here! Love the points explained and argued!
The way you bring up important discussions about the whys and how’s in the Zoe confident and unapologetic way is my favorite ❤
Loved this episode! Looking forward to the next one ✨
So hyped for this video!!
Zoe, love your sense of humor and the way you explain things!
You ate this up I love it!!!!! Everything you are saying is real….
Zoe I really admire your great works. Thanks
hello zoe, so nice being back on your channel! i’ve been “self-studying” fashion for the past years during high school because my biggest dream is to become a creative director. to become a CD: how’s it different for those who haven’t studied fashion design in academy? i’ve always been scared of not making it not only because i’m a woman (fashion industry = misogyny, sexism and all of that not really fun stuff) but also because i have no academic fashion background. i don’t know if people have asked you this question before, but there it is. thank you so much for the content you share with us, i find it really inspiring ❤️
Hi Zoe, I am sad I don't see your videos as often on my timeline. Your energy and the way you explain stuff is gold.
I think you can hit the notification bell to get alerts?
Love love you. Watching from Zambia 🇿🇲
Miss Zoe I love you more than my own mother. I'm endlessly thankful to the universe for letting me find you. The end of the video made me want to tell you.
Thank you!
I was waiting for Zoe's take on the matter. Did not disappoint!
Getting into creative direction myself, here to learn!
Oo I’m learning so many interesting things from your videos.
Edit: I’m not a fashion designer but I am a designer so I get the frustration of celebrities skipping the line.
Looool the moment I saw a snippet of this video on your IG I ran to TH-cam and tripped just to watch the whole thing 😂. it did not disappoint! As usual you delivered 🔥👌🏼. You make so many valid points and I love that quote you referenced from Robin, I’m actually gonna read that article in full. As for Pharrell being CD… I’m not a fan of the move. I like Pharrell’s music and his style, but it still doesn’t change the fact that he isn’t qualified for that role and he doesn’t NEED that job. He’s rich, famous, influential and all the lot, must be nice to have a foot in the door 🙄. He’s worked hard in the music industry, sure I respect that, but he’s incomparable to Virgil… I hope LV gets what they are expecting from him lol but I am actually praying for the skilled professionals like their atelier and design teams who have to communicate with someone who has no idea how to put a collection together. Nothing more infuriating than working with someone who has no knowledge in fashion design but has the power to tell you what to do lol. It’s like getting a haircut at the salon and telling the hair stylist how to cut your hair 😂. Anyway, that is my opinion on that.
Btw, that sparkly hat and eyeliner is ✨giving✨and that story time at the end was hilarious 😭😂. Idk what that designer was expecting from you guys but I bet the response you all gave him embarrassed him. 😂😂💀
the analogy of chefs to the fashion industry 👏🏾
Thanks for sharing your views Zoe. In addition:
1. Not only will Louis Vuitton have a new CD menswear, but the CEO of Louis Vuitton has also just been reappointed after a 10+ year stint from the previous CEO. The Pharell appointment just screams “first 100 days plan” to me.
2. Follow the money - this isn’t about creativity but share holder value. The name Pharell will bring a buzz and therewith interest to LV. (It is the same as with the Daily Mail: negative comments under articles still increase interaction and traffic)
3. I am so proud you were called a witch, the best compliment anyone can get: in touch with the world, powerful and fearless.
Thanks for sharing your views with the world!
Excellent analysis, and couldn't agree more! And yes, Mr. Season 1 definitely had to come with more than that to get a reaction from New Yorkers, having been one myself, and a smoker at that time, I would have gone right back to my cigarette.
So cool as always 😎 live your hat 👒
Zoe, what you spoke of during the 17.20 mark is something I never thought of, but it is extremely important, however not surprising. Thank you for bringing up an important point. Definitely more than 'idle thoughts', as I hope to hear more discussions within the industry around the topic. Awesome/informative video as always Zoe!
I too believe the role should have been given to a person who studied fashion and worked tirelessly through the industry but let us see what happens with this new collection.
Thanks for the explanation!
Regarding your TH-cam concerns: I feel like TH-cam is pretty stable and that IG is the one circling the drain, with Mosseri's continuous "shiny object syndrome". But yeah, they do say diversifying is the solution. That, and a mailing list.
So HAPPY about Pharrell!!!
I am beyond grateful for the well of your knowledge, wisdom, and expertise. Very inspiring but also a kick in the ass! I love how realistic and 'tough love' a lot of your advice is. Keep it up! Thank you !
You're welcome!
We'll have to wait and see the first collection in June under Pharrel Williams direction, but yes LVMH might be buying time to assign the position to someone else.
Pharell has had a long relationship with LV. Having collaborations going as far back as 2004. I think they choose him because they know him and his work. He’s not a radical choice, by any stretch of imaginative. He’s a safe bet. I think he will be fine.
How much of it has to with being a prominent, famous, Black-American, Hip-Hop celebrity?
Collaborating with a brand doesn’t make you a designer or a fashion expert. You have no idea what you’re talking about.
And you say they know his work, what work? His work as a singer/producer? How is that relevant to being the creative director of a huge brand?
Don’t make me laugh.
@@themarquis336 👍🏼👌🏼
@@1525boyIts has everything to do with it because Hip-Hop and black culture has been a driving forces in fashion. Almost every hip-hop/R&B producer has had a fashion brand. Russell Simmons, Diddy, Jay-z, J-Lo so this idea that LVHM appoint a black music producer as creative director, might to new to white oriole and other non-black fashion insiders, but it’s not knew in black culture. And Goes back to the 80’s.
@@themarquis336You have no idea what you are talking about and you certainly don’t know anything about black culture and fashion. Almost every hip-hop/R&B music producers has also had a fashion brand. Russell Simmons, Diddy, Jay-z even J-Lo. High Fashion has been “borrowing” from hip-hop and streetwear for decades without giving black culture its due. Appointing Pharrell Williams is nothing new. This relationship between black music and fashion is at least 50 years old. You can laugh if you want to or you could do a deeper dive and learn.
Great video 👍🏾 answered my questions
I just googled him and in his business venture on Wikipedia he seems to have collaborated with a few fashion designers while putting together his own line. Sometimes artistic people aren’t just creative in one area. Let’s see what happens. Have faith!
Would you consider diving into fashion history as a series or podcast? And adding current fashion events in as well? Would listen to it daily. Thank you for all that you do.
The video kept me entertained while organizing part of my closet but the last part of it stop me folding the clothes and keep looking at my tv and laughing to all your gesture.
17:13 love this take
You make very good points. Pharrell may also bring in the Japanese design aesthetic as he's good friends with Nigo of BAPE. LVMH is searching for relevancy for this decade and probably to expand their fashion markets. Im looking forward to seeing what Pharrell puts on the runway in June!
Hey Zoe👋🏼👋🏼👋🏼
I have a video request for you 😊😊😊 Please do a detailed video on what we should and shouldn’t include in a Costume Design Portfolio. It would be helpful for those from a Fashion Design background like myself. 🫶🥺🫶🥺🫶🥺
Hey Zoe, can you consider making another video on House Codes? Like how to keep the codes intact and not have collections deviate from its DNA?
Ooo id love to see this too !
As a black person I WHOLEHEARTLY agree that pharell was definitely hired to be a sort of replacement for Virgil because they knew they would've gotten backlash if they hired a white designer
They need some similarities, as all the menswear stock that is in the stores stockrooms (yes there is unsold stock in the stockrooms) needs to be rotated and displayed well to meet the sales targets.
Similar products will allow a full refresh in terms of looks for windows and visual merchandising displays. It’s a very safe bet and good business sense.
I’m looking forward to see what fresh looks will be revealed in June !! Virgil was the best 😢
Umm… first of alll, love the hat.
I feel that another issue that the "Female VS Male Creative Director" debacle is the sort of image placed on each gender in terms of what they're expected to create.
In the realm of womenswear, people have grown to believe that men create whimsical, showstopping garments that are useless in real life, while women create practical clothes for daily activities that are bland and uninspired. Menswear seems to be more liberated from this ideology.
Of course, this has been proven false so many times by designers throughout history, for every Galliano, there's a Courrèges and for every Phoebe Philo, there's an Iris van Herpen, but the industry, from the executives to the journalists, keeps it in mind when selecting and reacting to each creative director.
I love Williams and what he represents in the fashion industry. The fact the his wife is a model and a designer gives him the leg up but she is wonderful as well. I see him opening doors to not only his culture but genders as well. He wore Chanel shirts that were for women. He pushed the gender bender button a bit further and said Hey, it's ok to wear what you want to wear, man or woman. That's what I see. I think Vouton wants in on that action as well. DIOR has made the move. Pharrell can open doors to style freedoms, especially for men and that's what I see when I see him in the ads and commercials. It works.
Pharrell deserves this placement. I’m not saying he’s the ONLY one who does, but he got it and it’s not some highway robbery. Pharrell has collaborated with many luxury brands in the past and runs two successful fashion brands (Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream). He wasn’t just some stylish dude sitting on his coach doing nothing. He’s paid his dues in his multiple artistic ventures.
Before I say this, I know LV and Kenzo are very different brands but they fall under the same umbrella. I find it funny that Nigo (who has no formal fashion education and paid his dues through betting on himself with BAPE) got praise for his placement, but Pharrell (who has no formal fashion education but two companies with Nigo) gets bitterness thrown at him. I’m not saying P is going to be the greatest designer of all time for LV or that his first collection will even be good, but HE IS GOOD. When Raf was at CK, it was a terrible fit. But did we question if Raf Simons was *deserving* of the role? No. Did we question his validity as an artist? No. Why is Pharrell not awarded the same grace.
Also, relating to the topic of misogyny and sexism in fashion, I think a large part of the reaction to P’s placement comes subconsciously from racism. I’m not calling anyone racist but we live in a very discriminatory world and everyone has subconscious biases they never asked for. I saw a lot of names floating around from speculation before the announcement and there were black designers named. The question is how did they design? People in fashion have real biases towards “streetwear blacks” as opposed to the “high fashion or luxury blacks.”
Before Virgil’s first collection at LV, similar sentiment could be seen. He’d get unprovoked disses from industry greats like Raf, he was picked apart (in much higher rates) regularly by fashion journalists, and credited with ruining luxury by introducing street influence. On the latter point, Kim Jones never really received hate for doing the same thing, nor did Demna. I think Pharrell is really getting the short end of the stick because even though he has *TWO FASHION COMPANIES*, he’s still just the “streetwear black” until he can “prove himself” to people who think they’re the arbiters of art lol.
I agree with you. This is a set up.
“Maaad Props!” was actually the classic NY response. A perfect embodiment of the urban culture here that drives the local fashion scene. 😅✊🏽
How do we write our cvs as a creative director
Hi Zoe, what do you think about “Next in Fashion” Netflix show? Why don’t you watch “Project runway” anymore?
Is it possible to get a transcript of your episodes?
Hi Zoe. Nice lecture🤗 I wanted to ask though. What if I'm just starting my business, can be both a creative director and a fashion designer?
And not just "being both", can I state it?
When you are starting your business, you will most likely do a lot more than fulfill just 2 roles. I don't know why you need to tell people you're both CD and a fashion designer. People will just assume you do a lot of the creative stuff until your company grows much larger.
Hello Zoe, I just simply adore your take on the whole matter. One thing I also like to add is that the whole desison of LV is giving the impression that you do not have to know anything about the whole textile and fashion industry in order to land such a high level job position. Do not get me wrong I am not worried about Pharell doing a bad Job as a creative but I am worried about that he does not have an understanding about clothes and what it takes to make them (Supplychain, which is effed up after covid). Even as a CD you need a basic understanding about such things and I believe that he is totally laking this kind of knowledge.
Pharell founded Billionaire Boys Club and was influential in the founding of BAPE. These two are some of the earliest scaled streetwear brands.
I am in love with this your half scale mannequin. Kindly share details on it please. Where is it from?
It's from a company called Royal Dress Forms.
Grace Wales Bonner should have been hired.
haha i'm very curious how you cook XD
Yes I do think he’s a good choice. I think virgil would approve this .. and let’s see what he does … also I like the “YOU LIKE MY VIDEOS BUT WOULD YOU LIKE MY COOKING” 😅
Jay mccarrol the first winner of PROJECT RUNWAY .. he taught at my school Philadelphia University my freshman year
Was he a good teacher?
I don’t know much about Pharrell’s relationship with LV and what went behind this choice but I do agree that it seems like a cultural figurehead choice instead of a good for fashion choice. Pharrell is great at making music and even having vision for artist’s career trajectories (his and others) but I really think the fashion collaborations he has done are lackluster aesthetically. I personally don’t think he has much conceptual ideation behind his aesthetic choices and so they can easily fall flat and seem all over the place. And putting this thinking in the context of a whole collection might be not so great. But we’ll see, maybe he’ll prove a lot of people wrong 🤷🏾♀️
I don’t know what experience he brings however I think many brands are taking race and gender into consideration when hiring leadership to give the perception of accessibility and to appeal to a broader customer base.
17:21 time stamp,
Your statement, ( "if true,")
Does very much, says something about LVMH.
But...,
It wouldn't be anything nice.
The smoking section used to be so fun.
The truth can be brutal, but it is true. However who would’ve known fashion to be this political. Looking forward to see the changing Pharrell will bring to LV with his cultural legacy.
I have a degree in Fashion Design and Merchandising, and Psychology. I was the Creative Director of a national magazine... and I still don't know what they do! You sort of dig deep inside and get a vibe for what you are hungry to see and are into, along with watching and looking at what the kids are doing. Also, there is what you can do with the technology /budget possible. [ can be a constraint ].
How do you think he did with his collection?
Oh man, I forgot all about this. I've been busy taking care of my husband after his accident and I'm behind on fashion news all around.
I don’t think sexism plays a role here the elephant in the room is how there’s minimum men’s designs and pieces in your favorite stores and how the entire store caters to women
I watch a lot of Zoe's videos and see all the complexity of fashion. So having a non-fashion person as a CD of a huge brand knocks down and makes a mockery of everything Zoe teaches in her videos. As an example everyone loves to make whimsical fashion illustrations, but hates to make flats as flats are the nuts and bolts of technique and it takes "skill" to understand the application. So Williams knows nothing about flats (skill, technique), so in essence LV is saying all idiots can spend years studying fashion as a low level, menial grunt worker, as it is insignifant and immaterial to a large fashion house.
Once you can scale and monetize an activity, men will see it as worth their time to learn and dominate. While marginalizing women who’ve done it for centuries.
Funny! Is it not a process to be a Creative Director? Please share...
The last portion of this video was very dismissive and culturally clueless. Streetwear has never been about how many years you spent working your way through internships. Street comes from the everyday person who mixes and matches from designers, from low end fashion, from sports, music and various aspects of culture and creates their own expression. You are also ignoring the impact that black music including hip-hop has had on the fashion industry. Did you forget the 90’s FUBU, Phat Farm, Baby Phat or The 2000’s with Diddy’s Dean Jean or Jay-z’ Rockawear? There has always been a connection between fashion and black music. In the 80’s Dapper Dan would make knock off designer fashions for Hip-Hop stars. Eventually, LV and Gucci began to put their versions of his designs down the runway. So when you see Pharrell being named Creative Director, you are seeing the long historic relationship between, Black culture and music. So instead of LV stealing the street style from black culture and hip-hop, or hiring a clueless white designer pre tending to have invented puffer jackets and sagging jeans, they hired a black music producer to bring authentic street and hip-hop style. I understand the need to give deserving black designers the opportunity to because CD but please don’t ever diminish the work of another black person, or the connection between hip-hop and fashion because they don’t meet mainstream qualifications. Hiring Pharrell Williams is continuing the cultural tradition of the merging of hip-hop and fashion that goes back to Russell Simmons. This is creative direction is nothing new and Pharrell is more than just a LV Affirmative Action hire to tick a box after Virgil’s untimely passing. The fashion show was phenomenal. I only hope that if he hasn’t that he will ensure that more black designers and people of color are on his team during his tenure.
Those who are upset with Pharrell clearly don't know of his history and background. Virgil himself has learned a lot from Pharrell. Do your homework and stop judging people based on skin color and the words "Urban & Hip Hop".