Very good video, shows everything you need to know and I just want to add a few comments having just replaced mine on my 2001 S10. Remove the parking brake bracket completely off the side panel, 1 nut up top two bolts down low front and rear. This will give you great access to slide the cable from the cabin to the engine compartment. Remove the windshield washer tank. The room it gives you to remove the clips and wind the cable around the corner to the front makes this section easier. Like I said great video Mark, hard to get a camera into the areas needed.
I also own a blazer and I appreciate you doing these how to on the blazer. Very informational and enjoy the step by step. Helps me along the way when I have a problem you covered in your videos. Thanks.
thanks mark i was able to cut the plastic back far enough to get to the wire but i appreciate the advice and when the new cable comes i will use your informative video.
Thank you,you made it look easy,but I don't have patience,that plastic cover in front you were fishing cable through might not be there anymore when I'm done,but it will work! Thanks
Great video, I have a 98 LT so there was not going to be any surprises when I do my own. Really appreciate the info you showed. Comments added some help to make it even easier.
Hi all, I replaced my hood release cable and the hood release itself. I did this because I have a 1998 Chevy S10 extended cab (3-door) 2WD and 2.2L engine. In other words, it is twenty years old so... I figured if I was replacing the cable, I might as well replace the release latch too. I had to move a few things out of the way also, but not cruise-control, as I don't have cruise control. I would advise taking out the driver's seat also, as it will be in your way and not taking it out will make this job much more difficult than it has to be. I used old pillows to cushion my body while under the dash. There are also three plastic clips for the cable: there are two in back of the driver's side grill, only a few inches apart, and, one more clip in back of the windshield washer fluid container, sort of between that and the fuse box, but in back of both. I also had to move the air filter housing out of the way. So I went through the hassle of moving a bunch of stuff first, to get my old cable off of the plastic clips without breaking them. And two: to reuse the clips for my new hood release cable. It works like a charm. No more leaving my hood up a little, stopped on the safety catch only, and no more metal coat-hanger sticking out of the grill. I did this in a few hours this afternoon. My advice is to take your time and to proceed slowly so as not to break anything. I learned a lot from this video, but I did take out the two bolts and the nut (which is tough to see) for my E-brake, to really be able to get behind it easily. BUT, I didn't have to take off any of the E-brake cable(s). Another thing, I took my carpeting completely out about two weeks ago as I also need to replace my Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) which is under the driver's seat console, rather, pretty much sits on the middle of the floor, UNDER the carpeting, so that is quite a hassle in itself. Since my carpeting is in bad shape, I ordered a brand-new carpet. But putting the new carpet in will be another project.
To explain what I had to go through in order to take out the seats. It is/was kind of a hassle. Three of the nuts are 15mm, easy enough. BUT, the seat-belt bolt for the driver and passenger seats takes a T-50 socket. They should have made the T-50 socket area in the bolts DEEPER, as I could not get them loose because the T-50 socket just kept popping out I as exerted force on my breaker bar. Yup, I even bought a breaker bar. To make a long story shorter, I had to take it to a garage and pay to have them use an air hammer on the driver's side seatbelt T-50 bolt, as I had the middle chewed up pretty bad by the time I was done fighting with it. At a later date, they got the passenger side T-50 out much easier, as I gave up right away when the T-50 socket just kept popping out. I replaced those T-50 bolts with hardened (8.8) regular hex bolts that take a 19mm socket. Just in case anyone has to go through what I did I will give the replacement hex bolt dimensions here: Brand: EVERBILT, hex bolt, M12 -1.175 x 40mm, zinc plated. I bought them at Home Depot. The part/item number at the top right of the little bag each bolt comes in is: 573 898. I hope this helps at least one person.
Before you pull the old cable out tie a good piece of string....like you'd use to lay out a slab for a building, small nylon string with pretty high breaking strength....use 3-4 clove hitches and tape the string to the cable....leave enough string to make it long enough to have access under the dash and under the hood....the clove hitch the new cable to the string and simply pull the cable into the hood compartment with the string....like fishing a wire through a wall cavity!
That's EXACTLY what I was thinking about !! A little bedroom grease in the right place to help slide it through ... always seems appreciated .... I'm going to do it soon ,,,,,, THE CABLE ,,,,, then maybe later !!
Mark was wondering...After cutting the inside cable (in your opinion) do you think securing the old and new cable together so as you pull the old out it would thread in the new cable in place? Thanks for sharing
Coach Jeff perfetti Doing this actually works quite well. And would save you time from having to hook up a hanger or rod as shown in this video to try and snag the new cable to feed it through. Mind you it will have to be some decent strength string as to not break or come off easily when pulling past corners. Could save you several minutes and some bloody knuckles lol.
You don’t test by shutting hood. If it doesn’t open you see screwed. You test by moving the latch manually and then have a second person pull the latch and see if the latch releases. You run this test a few times to make certain, THEN test with the hood itself.
Mark Hi, question when i pull my hood release I hear it click but it does not open where i can reach the 2nd latch. my cable is intact but does not release? any thoughts
I just did these sparkplugs like 8 minutes ago. You definitely need that wobble extension. And not the u joint type. They angle too much and catch on themselves. I guess it can be done with the u joint but they suck.
My problem is not with the latch assembly, cable or hood release handle. What happened is that the pin connecting the handle and the car body broke, according to my girlfriend's son. The handle I got from Amazon does not come with the pin. I will check with a salvage yard to get the pin.
Hey man I have a 1992 GMC sierra and the problem is that the bar that is on teh hood and closes and the latch latches over isn't hitting the latch enough to bring the latch over it.
Another video using a modified coat hanger. This worked on my Mom's 2000 Jimmy. Then I added my own temp coat hanger hood release until I replace the broken hood release cable. th-cam.com/video/NqIXpW8s9cE/w-d-xo.html
@@CuzinDave this, on the other hand, is exactly what I needed. Highly recommend you skip the first referenced video and jump straight to this one. Hopefully, you won’t waste 10 minutes of your life that I will never get back.
thanks mark i was able to cut the plastic back far enough to get to the wire but i appreciate the advice and when the new cable comes i will use your informative video.
Replacement hood release cable on Amazon - amzn.to/2nX2HbN
Great tutorial. No sitting and waiting for 20 minutes for you to start, you get the job done and show everything you need to know, keep it up
About $12 on EBay. Got mine today. Thanks for the video !!
Very good video, shows everything you need to know and I just want to add a few comments having just replaced mine on my 2001 S10. Remove the parking brake bracket completely off the side panel, 1 nut up top two bolts down low front and rear. This will give you great access to slide the cable from the cabin to the engine compartment. Remove the windshield washer tank. The room it gives you to remove the clips and wind the cable around the corner to the front makes this section easier. Like I said great video Mark, hard to get a camera into the areas needed.
I also own a blazer and I appreciate you doing these how to on the blazer.
Very informational and enjoy the step by step.
Helps me along the way when I have a problem you covered in your videos.
Thanks.
Mastercraft HEPA filter Vacuum - $300
thanks mark i was able to cut the plastic back far enough to get to the wire but i appreciate the advice and when the new cable comes i will use your informative video.
Man, harder than I expected to change this part, good job
Thank you,you made it look easy,but I don't have patience,that plastic cover in front you were fishing cable through might not be there anymore when I'm done,but it will work! Thanks
Great video, I have a 98 LT so there was not going to be any surprises when I do my own. Really appreciate the info you showed. Comments added some help to make it even easier.
Thanks for helping us out. Made my day a lot easier 😁
Hi all, I replaced my hood release cable and the hood release itself. I did this because I have a 1998 Chevy S10 extended cab (3-door) 2WD and 2.2L engine. In other words, it is twenty years old so... I figured if I was replacing the cable, I might as well replace the release latch too. I had to move a few things out of the way also, but not cruise-control, as I don't have cruise control. I would advise taking out the driver's seat also, as it will be in your way and not taking it out will make this job much more difficult than it has to be. I used old pillows to cushion my body while under the dash. There are also three plastic clips for the cable: there are two in back of the driver's side grill, only a few inches apart, and, one more clip in back of the windshield washer fluid container, sort of between that and the fuse box, but in back of both. I also had to move the air filter housing out of the way. So I went through the hassle of moving a bunch of stuff first, to get my old cable off of the plastic clips without breaking them. And two: to reuse the clips for my new hood release cable. It works like a charm. No more leaving my hood up a little, stopped on the safety catch only, and no more metal coat-hanger sticking out of the grill. I did this in a few hours this afternoon. My advice is to take your time and to proceed slowly so as not to break anything. I learned a lot from this video, but I did take out the two bolts and the nut (which is tough to see) for my E-brake, to really be able to get behind it easily. BUT, I didn't have to take off any of the E-brake cable(s). Another thing, I took my carpeting completely out about two weeks ago as I also need to replace my Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) which is under the driver's seat console, rather, pretty much sits on the middle of the floor, UNDER the carpeting, so that is quite a hassle in itself. Since my carpeting is in bad shape, I ordered a brand-new carpet. But putting the new carpet in will be another project.
To explain what I had to go through in order to take out the seats. It is/was kind of a hassle. Three of the nuts are 15mm, easy enough. BUT, the seat-belt bolt for the driver and passenger seats takes a T-50 socket. They should have made the T-50 socket area in the bolts DEEPER, as I could not get them loose because the T-50 socket just kept popping out I as exerted force on my breaker bar. Yup, I even bought a breaker bar. To make a long story shorter, I had to take it to a garage and pay to have them use an air hammer on the driver's side seatbelt T-50 bolt, as I had the middle chewed up pretty bad by the time I was done fighting with it. At a later date, they got the passenger side T-50 out much easier, as I gave up right away when the T-50 socket just kept popping out. I replaced those T-50 bolts with hardened (8.8) regular hex bolts that take a 19mm socket. Just in case anyone has to go through what I did I will give the replacement hex bolt dimensions here: Brand: EVERBILT, hex bolt, M12 -1.175 x 40mm, zinc plated. I bought them at Home Depot. The part/item number at the top right of the little bag each bolt comes in is: 573 898.
I hope this helps at least one person.
@@JoeMC7 those seat belt bolts are a pain in the behind. I broke two t-50s trying to get mine out.
I appreciate the video. Put this job off for two years.
Thanks!
Before you pull the old cable out tie a good piece of string....like you'd use to lay out a slab for a building, small nylon string with pretty high breaking strength....use 3-4 clove hitches and tape the string to the cable....leave enough string to make it long enough to have access under the dash and under the hood....the clove hitch the new cable to the string and simply pull the cable into the hood compartment with the string....like fishing a wire through a wall cavity!
That's EXACTLY what I was thinking about !! A little bedroom grease in the right place to help slide it through ... always seems appreciated .... I'm going to do it soon ,,,,,, THE CABLE ,,,,, then maybe later !!
Thanks.Now I got something to do for tomorrow
Great ! Do more DIY car tips! Liked!!! 🫑💵💵🫑
Thank you! Will do!
Mark was wondering...After cutting the inside cable (in your opinion) do you think securing the old and new cable together so as you pull the old out it would thread in the new cable in place? Thanks for sharing
Coach Jeff perfetti Doing this actually works quite well. And would save you time from having to hook up a hanger or rod as shown in this video to try and snag the new cable to feed it through. Mind you it will have to be some decent strength string as to not break or come off easily when pulling past corners. Could save you several minutes and some bloody knuckles lol.
Thanks Mark this video helps, I have had a ratchet strap holding my hood down, now I can retire it. 👍😎
great video, he made it pretty easy. one shot deal! perfect!
Thanks for this video, I need to replace the cable on my mom's blazer. The part is only $20 too.
You don’t test by shutting hood. If it doesn’t open you see screwed. You test by moving the latch manually and then have a second person pull the latch and see if the latch releases. You run this test a few times to make certain, THEN test with the hood itself.
Want to come do mine now? LOL Having the same problem here.
pulling that single bolt off on the washer fluid jug allows you to easily lift it out to make getting the cable behind much easier.
troymassey90
Thanks for being so detailed
Mark Hi, question when i pull my hood release I hear it click but it does not open where i can reach the 2nd latch. my cable is intact but does not release? any thoughts
Mark, my cable on my 2003 Sierra 1500 extended cab broke, and I can't SEE or Get to a latch from the outside. What do I do?
I just did these sparkplugs like 8 minutes ago. You definitely need that wobble extension. And not the u joint type. They angle too much and catch on themselves. I guess it can be done with the u joint but they suck.
Is this same procedure for 92 GMC Sonoma?
My problem is not with the latch assembly, cable or hood release handle. What happened is that the pin connecting the handle and the car body broke, according to my girlfriend's son. The handle I got from Amazon does not come with the pin. I will check with a salvage yard to get the pin.
Thanks Mark...
How long did it take you to replace it
Hello Mr. Mark, What's your opinion about the Chevy Blazers 98-99? Are these reliable for transportation? Thanks!
If you buy a Southern Vehicle ( no Northern salt ) these things will EASILY run 200K PLUS. GREAT Vehicles.
Hey man I have a 1992 GMC sierra and the problem is that the bar that is on teh hood and closes and the latch latches over isn't hitting the latch enough to bring the latch over it.
Try adjusting the latch itself. Loosen the two screws and push it up and retighten
how long did it take?
Can this work with a 93 caprice
Traduselo a español 😮 porta
Thank you
My s10 hood won’t open when I pull the dam hood release
Useless video … my cable broke at the latch :P
Any ideas on how to get the hood open would really be appreciated.
Dude one headache gone
Thanks
my 98 envoy cable broke and i cannot open hood at all.any advice.?
I had same thing on 98 chevy blazer. This video was great and it worked, I got my hood open.
th-cam.com/video/9npRp3EQxV0/w-d-xo.html
Another video using a modified coat hanger. This worked on my Mom's 2000 Jimmy. Then I added my own temp coat hanger hood release until I replace the broken hood release cable.
th-cam.com/video/NqIXpW8s9cE/w-d-xo.html
@@jcsilvagni3993 Unless you just want to watch a profanity-filled video, this recommendation is not worth the time.
@@CuzinDave this, on the other hand, is exactly what I needed. Highly recommend you skip the first referenced video and jump straight to this one. Hopefully, you won’t waste 10 minutes of your life that I will never get back.
That looked painfully monotonous
You done it the hard way
I installed it and the cable broke again ....
Hey quick question. What if while you pull the cable it breaks again and I can’t open the hood???? Please help me
👍
To much work for me.
nobody knows how to replace the cable on a 94 Dodge Dakota
fuck it.... ill just use pliers.
👍👍👍👍👍🔧👏👏
thanks mark i was able to cut the plastic back far enough to get to the wire but i appreciate the advice and when the new cable comes i will use your informative video.