How to Install Toilet Water Hammer Arrestor (Sioux Chief 660 TK)
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How to install the Water Hammer Arrestor
Sioux Chief Mfg 660-TK Female Swivel Ballcock Nut by Male Ballcock Thread Mini Rester
Water hammer arrester
No more head damaged cartridges from soldering heat
Install on male iron pipe connections for tub or shower valves
Female swivel ballcock nut connection
Male ballcock threaded connection
Product Description
Sold as each. Toilet ballcock tee connection. Uses a pressurized cushion of air to absorb the pressure spike. Dual O-ring piston separates the air cushion from the water system to ensure permanent protection from waterlogging. Easy to install. Stops banging pipes. Manufacturer's number: 660-TK. Country of origin: United States. Distributed by Sioux Chief.
From the Manufacturer
Sioux Chief creates and manufactures some of the most diverse and innovative plumbing products in the country. We focus on product innovation initiated by field research and interviews with plumbers, engineers, code officials, and distributors. One of the reasons Sioux Chief is able to turn an idea into a product so quickly is because we design and build our own Machines, tools and dies, and equipment to ensure that exact product tolerances are achieved. Process innovation also controls manufacturing costs, providing constant, reliable value to the customer, year after year. Sioux Chief is proud to be a true American innovator, one that combines the desire to innovate with the capability to make it happen.
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Thank you for the video. I purchased a Sioux Chief 660-TK. The review was pretty bad due to quality issues - the hex nut wasn't tightened in production so it would leak water everywhere. Fortunately the one I got is a new production with date code 12/21. I installed it within 5 minutes and doesn't leak at all. Now water hammer is completely eliminated. Thanks again!
Just an FYI, I’m a master plumber and that sound you hear when opening the angle stop for your toilet is not air but most likely it’s caused by a damaged or loose rubber washer that disconnected from the stem of the toilet valve. This is an easy fix by shutting down the main water valve, removing the stem of the angle stop, and replacing the back Washer. The size you need will be a Double 00.
Judging by how long he said this took and how much of a struggle it was we might not recommend any shut off removals what so ever. Yikes.
Robert Stafford 😂
Hey, since you are a plumber, I have a toilet that makes a strange noise every time it flushes. Yes, I’m serious, no turd jokes. It’s just the one toilet. A loud sound comes out through the house like a tug boat sound, or fog horn. On an odd note (I’m musical) it’s always the same note. Me and my wife humm to it in 2 part harmony. What ya think??
@@lesthomasson7220 Professional plumber here (we dont have "Master" plumbers in California) the noise could also be caused by that angle stop not being opened all the way, or has some debris in the line. Best bet is to replace the angle stop and see if that works.
Pro tip, turn off the water to the home before removing any angle stops and when you turn the water back on, SLOWLY turn the water back on.
Javier Vazquez Thanks. Will check it out.
Also, before installing any hammer arrestor, you should ALWAYS check the pressure coming into the house first. If you go and buy a $10.00 PSI gauge and put it on an outside Silcock (hose bib) or on the spout of a slip sink in the basement and turn the water on, you’ll know what your incoming pressure is. If your home is 80 PSI or more, the correct solution to solve a water hammer issue would be to install a PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) on your main incoming water line.
What if the incoming pressure is only about 60 will the hammer arrester still solve the problem?
Thanks, good advice, my house makes noise when running water. Well get one installed soon, thx again, i subscribed to your channel, post some videos and i think you'll be successful
Not necessarily. You see water hammer is caused when water is suddenly stopped. Say due to sudden stop of water in shutoff valve. Now this water pressure wave travels in the line say to a bend . If the bend is not adequately supported it can cause a banging there. But when you put a water hammer arrestor just like he showed in the toilet, the shock created can partly be absorbed in the water hammer arrestor then the reduced wave still can shake the bend. Yes first use arrestor as he does. Other thing you can do is control flow of water into the toilet tank, so pressure wave is reduced.
I am not a plumber but I worked as Engineer for Visteon solving Flow induced vibration.
Consult a plumber for better help. I found out I had better idea than all of them. Sorry I hope did not offend any. You need to take courses in transient flow to really understand them.
But plumbers help because they have all experience to cut and crimp etc. Much better than me here. I know how to analyze.
In fact have a analyzed and trouble shoot many problems were many Engineers dare not venture. Good luck.
This is the older style toilet cistern, and in those we used to have the float arm which used to rise very slowly as the cistern filled up and I never had the water hammer noise, now I have the new modern toilet which seems to shut down with a bang when the water stops.
I didn't know this toilet water hammer damper existed. Thanks for making this video.
You mentioned that big sound so many times before you install the device but you didn't let us ear that sound. It's easy to say that the device fix your problem.
Les....I can almost certainly say that’s caused by a bad rubber washer inside the angle stop. I’ve fixed that issue more times then I care to remember. When the water rushes past that dislodged washer, that’s what causes that sound.
U think so? I changed my fill valve recently on the upstairs bathroom. Idk if its air due to how i turned back on the water ? And when i flush , like 3 seconds later i hear a thump. Could it be angle stop or do i need to buy a water arrestor?
It's amazing that you knew to install a water hammer arrestor. Good for you.
Open valves all the way "OPEN" and come back a quarter to half turn. This way, over time, your valves will not become "FROZEN OPEN" when doing maintenance or in an emergency.
Some turkeys like to OVER CRANK the valves to the end.
Idiots! End up damaging seals and valve stems!
Suggest you check every valve in your home, room by room, in and out of the house.
This practice has worked for me for years.
Just remember that there is nothing "Maintenance Free" and it will usually keep you out of major trouble.
BTW, Dad loved using Vaseline on all types of threads, shafts, terminals, no pun intended. (no mineral)
Cheers
Or just actually get quarter turn shut offs and don’t worry about your “maintenance”
Those things work too. I have tested them ..... washing machines ,refrigerators , water timers on your outside water faucets too. Great invention. Saves your pipes , fittings and valves in your plumbing.
For both of those the use of Teflon tape is incorrect. Those are straight threads, meaning the diameter of the pipe is constant, snd thus tension is constant until you compress the washer ar the bottom. The tale is to seal tapered valves, where the nut gets tighter as it goes to a wider part of the pipe, in that situation the compression is on the tape for all the threads that mesh.
Teflon tape wasn't designed as a sealant but as a thread lubricant. Preventing gulling and allowing the threaded pipe to seat all the way making a proper seal.
One last thing, and I don’t like commenting negatively on anyone’s work but by putting Teflon tape on the toilet tail you have effectively caused a less secure connection by making it more difficult for the rubber washer to do its job. The Teflon can get bound in between the washer and connection and it can prevent the fitting from being tightened all the way up. If you still feel it to be a good idea to incorporate a second sealing method you should use some pipe dope. I want to be clear that dope is not necessary and I wouldn’t recommend doing it but it would be a better option.
Thanks, that makes sense.
So it's better to just leave the rester as is?
It’s gonna work either way
If you use one of the quiet file valves from Korky (or something similar, you don't need the extra water hammer arrester. It's similar in price to regular fill valves, but closes the valve gently instead of on, then off. Side benefit is one less leak point. (doesn't hurt to have both, though)
Your fitting on the tank should only be tightened by hand, channel locks in the wrong hand can cause more harm to the coupling.
I just installed and it really worked. Thank you for this video sir.
I had the same problem with a bang in my wall after toilet bowl filled..Save your money and just turned the water feed down to half or less till banging goes away ..less pressure will stop thud !!
Sure it takes an extra 30 sec to a minute to refill but who cares unless your a double flusher lol
Yup, I discovered this solution too
The noise I hear in the video when you turn the valve open again is from the bibb washer on the end of the stop valve stem vibrating as pressure flows from one side of that washer to the other. Open it faster to full open. OR 1. Turn off water at the meter and replace that stop on the toilet with a ball valve type supply stop. OR 2. Turn off water at the meter and remove the stem from this stop. Tighten the bibb screw holding the bibb washer on that stem. You could also replace that washer as it is surely very old.
Sir, The hammering occurs most times because the shutoff valve rubber gasket is loose or worn out. Replace the shutoff valve.
I need this for my washer machine !!
it's not a plastic on plastic issue, the way this pipe sceal is butt joint, with a gasket, the only thing tape can do is prevent the pipe from going in all the way and scealing properly, tape is only for conical thread
Thank you for the video and the part link. It was very informative.
I have that horrible noise ever since I had did a bathroom upgrade. Now just about every water outlet in the house makes the noise when opening or shutting. Does this mean I have to put one of those in every sink, shower and commode?
Just coming in here to say that I bought this arrestor for my toilet and it didn’t fix the issue. Turns out it was the water valve that I could never get to open fully because it was fixed inside the inner part of my one piece toilet. I changed it to a quarter turn valve which I could now fully open and the noise disappeared.
A lot of the time the vibration is caused from the washer in the angle valve. It's ripped or partially torn and is loose within the 1/2 inch line causing a ricochet. Cut the angle stop off and put a new one on. More than likely ur problem will b solved.
it would have been nice to hear the noise befor you fixt it . I have this noise being heard after I flush when it is almost to the end I hear this thud sound . I changed the fill vale about three months ago because it went bad and after the fill vale replacement is when it started
it reduces the noise of all tabs at house or particular area
Well done...clear precise instructions...👍👍👍
You do not need plumbers tape when the seal is at the gasket
infact, should not have...
Excellent video, great installation.
Just purchased one for my toilet as currently when I flush toilet makes a load noise in pipes once water reaches to the top in the toilet
The memory rule I use is that twisting clockwise tightens and twisting anti clockwise loosens the nut so I can just visualize a clock face, facing out from the surface I'm going to screw something in or out of. If I'm tired or otherwise having trouble rotating my perspective I just pretend to screw it in the air as I rotate my hand to face the position it will be in when I actually do the screw job.
Lefty loosey, righty tighty? That works most of the time, but in some cases with plumbing its the opposite.
Mental perspective get's screwed up when screwing from the bottom though. It's still righty-tighty (if you're underneath it), but being above it, it's left from your perspective.
Look at this guy how he uses the channel locks 😂😂
Do you shut off the main water supply before installing? Or just the water AT the toilet? Also, I notice hammering after cutting off the shower as well. Should I start with an arrestor at the main also? Any advice/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
You just need to shut the water off at your toilet, but also, I recommend to replace the shut off valve for toilet with a 1/4” turn valve, on the video the shut off valve is making noise as well.
I just installed one on my toilet and it doesn’t make any noise now when the valve opens and closes!
Welcome to the club
Thank you. I think this part will really save me.
1:45 'Try to notice the direction'. You mean notice that clockwise is close and anti-clockwise to open? Like it always is...
I thought threads were reversed in Great Britain? 😂
Usually the only time the threads are reversed is when it is attached to something that spins clockwise and so the threads are reversed so it doesnt work loose as it spins.
Aka right=tight. Left loose
@@edorofish That's Australia, duh
Life saver video. Thanks much. big love
I just installed two arrestors on Toto2, they're not really making a difference for me. Shark bite brand from Lowes
Very useful , thank you
4:06 a cruise ship horn?
This is great! Thank you for sharing.
You should've get your shut off valve replaced that is what is causing it too.
I opened all my faucets and flushed the toilet with the water off for 5 minutes, left them open while i turned the water back on, and my toilet pipe hammer was fixed
What does this sentence even mean? Maybe you mean that you FIRST turned off the water to the house and then SECOND flushed the toilet and opened all the faucets?
@@gregorymoore4891 fixed this months ago. I put a new fluid master in the tank, and it stopped immediately.
Great accent!
I have had to replace my piston type anti-hammer device periodically, can't remember exactly may be every 4 to 6 years. However I have now found out the device can be repaired, here is how:
1. After removing, lightly sand the end and punch or drill a small hole.
2. Insert a thin rod through the whole and push the piston all the way back.
3. Dry thoroughly and seal the hole with two-part epoxy, let epoxy fully cure.
4. Reinstall.
You just saved some money. Don't forget to check the batteries in your water alarm.
is 7/8 standard size for toilets? I want to buy the right one, that's all
Changing the fill valve
Solve the problem
We get sudden banging of water pipes in our house even when we are Not using any water appliance at all the banging I defo thing is generated from our next door neighbours mains system,where do i fit the Arrester in my cold water mains system,may be directly (after) the stop the water isolation tap in my house,any other suggestions please (we live in the UK 🇬🇧)
My toilet makes no hammer noise. The valve in the toilet restricts the flow to where there is a back pressure. You need a wide open flow to cause this noise.
When it fills the valve closes slowly. Don't open the valve on the wall wide open.
can i angle this rester so it fits under my worktop ?? cheers
Apparently another solution is to drain all water pipes in your house - likely an air bubble below the valve. Once the air bubble is removed, the “water hammer” vibration thing goes away. Upstream it could be air bubble in your fill valve which is likely a sign it needs to be replaced - sometimes a small adjustment works well for short term
I did that twice- the first time the noise stopped but came back within a week. Did it again and it was no better, so time to call a plumber, sigh..
What are those steps? Is there a written instruction for it bc mine is still hummering after installation
Hello great video, but does the cylinder have to be facing up or ca it be down
Shouldn't matter the pressure will hit the device regardless, I think.
@PoolarityChannel thank you it's working OK facing at 5oclock
Anyone tell me or know why after I draining my water lines for repair,my upstairs toilet has a loud pop when flushed ,very loud ,only when a repair is done ,ie leaky pipes
does it not have to be installed vertically?
No, any direction is fine.
My problem: when someone is showering and we also use the kitchen sink, closing the kitchen faucet causes water hammer. Would this device aleviate the hammer if installed by the cellar washing machine. I really dont want to cut and solder pipes unless I have to. The only place I can see to install a screw-on device like this is by the washing machine.
Check out the videos on ask this old house they have some great videos on this issue.
I get knocking when the angle stop is not open at least 75%. It happens when I start to open it.
I had to buy two adapters to go onto the arrestor in order to attach it. Two trips to hardware store, unfortunately.
If you know, then don't fn use teflon tape on a toilet hose. The seal is the rubber grommet,period. Really pisses me off when someone does this or uses pipe dope in the wrong place or on everything. Just a mess every time. Plumber here who see's DIY's as great source of money in my pocket.
Thanks for this.
I’m getting a banging of pipes when my upstairs toilet has finished flushing.
I understand you need to install one of these within 6 feet of the toilet.
I am unable to fit next to the toilet due to my pipe work being behind boxing.
Is it best to fit this under the cold water tap in the bathroom?
I could either install it there or downstairs under the sink.
I just installed two of these made for the washing machine fittings. I had pipes rattling in the wall of the master shower. No matter what sink or toilet was used I would hear 6 or 8 knocks in the wall. So I decided to try putting a device on the hot and cold faucet behind the washer and so far there's no more knocking. But it could be because I have air in the lines from shutting off the water and installing the arresters. We'll see what happens when I do some laundry and get the air out of the pipes. I plan on adding a few more around the house on the sinks and toilets to get even more water hammer arresting. I'm afraid that if I didn't do something I would crack a joint in the wall and have a bigger problem.
All you had to do was crack the water open slightly. You don't need the valve to be fully open to fill the tank.
Thanks!! That solved it for me! It takes longer for the tank to refill, but who cares.
Thank you so much.
@@jmb3543 Yup just crack it open till you hear water flowing. Tank will fill and be a ton quieter.
Teflon tape when there is a rubber gasket?
I once wore 2 condoms for extra protection!
What size is the tread size fitting hose going up to tank and going down to pife?
Do not use teflon!
The water hammer eliminator needs to be installed vertically in order to work properly.
They work in any orientation actually. It's a gas filled chamber with a sealed piston.
I agree. It may work for a while horizontally but eventually the seal gets a slight leak and becomes water logged. If it is installed vertically the gas acts as a bubble and water cannot leak in.
Not these cylinder ones
I never saw this device nor it is ever needed in my country...is it because i use pvc pipe?
PVC, not PEX? It depends on local codes, but actual need is dependent on flow rate and water pressure.
@@brettknoss486 yeah everyone use blue pvc tube.... but now you mention it . It is probably the water pressure like you said.
Teflon is not required
All three of my toilet make these noise everytime I use one of them. So do I have to install all three of them or one is fine
All 3, but you can always try one first to see
@@PoolarityChannel some say it could be the shutting valve attached problem. Could it be?
What’s the diameter of the arrester?
I installed one of these and it made no difference
The washer in your shutoff valve is loose man. That what that big vibration was.
Surprised that Local hardware stores don’t have it.
Good Lord you need a lesson in how to use grips (water pump pliers) , best of luck moving forward, but your use of ptfe tape is completely wasted as you have no idea where the water tight joint is made, but I wish you all the luck you desire as I think your going to need it !!!
Thanks for the well wishes, very much appreciated. There's no shortage of well wishers amongst the vastness that is the internet.
Learn how to use channel locks lol. Just giving u a hard time. Nice video.
no ... get a wrench the right size
I've purchased the same unit, I've got water hammer after toilet valve shuts off.. My unit didn't make that loud noise when water was turned on ??? is my unit defective also I've still got the same sound when toliet valve shuts off
No Black and White answer unfortunately, just what you already mentioned, could be defective, or plain just ineffective even if it wasn't defective. Maybe shoot an email over to the Customer Support and see what they have to say.
www.siouxchief.com/products/support
thanks.. I'll do that..
Clockwise - tighten. Counter-clockwise - loosen. 99% of the time...
The important thing to remember is that, "righty, tighty; lefty, loosey" applies when the thing you're tightening is going away from you. When you're viewing from above, it's reversed.
🤦♂️ This is hard to watch. I mean you got it done but wow. 20 minutes to unthread that line and nearly everything is lefty loosy in these types of application and remembering how many turns to close the valve? Like wow.
Emmy award winning material? Thanks for sticking around all that 🥸😎🤓👍
20 minutes? I did mine in under 2 minutes. Do not use teflon tape on this kind of fitting.
Under 2 minutes? I don't believe you.
@@george5120 It is very simple. No tools needed.
Turn off the valve.
Unscrew the hose from the tank.
Screw the fitting onto the tank.
Screw the hose onto the fitting.
Turn on the valve.
Wipe up the water that dripped onto the floor.
Take it for a test drive.
Check for leaks and tighten any drip points.
Done.
@@uneektalent
Just who do you think you are talking to anyway? I have been doing home repairs and upgrades for over forty years. I know these things.
My point is that:
"Easy to install" is easy to say.
That means by the time a person has completed the task from start-to-finish and has remedied unforeseen issues, along the way; the time involved is going to be more than "2 minutes", if for no other reason than it will take "2 minutes" just to drain the tank.
The narrator was not unreasonable, therefore, to say "20 minutes"; and you know that is true. But you could not resist interjecting your know-it-all attitude, anyway, by saying "2 minutes".
@@george5120 So sorry, I'm not trying to offend anyone. And I'm definitely not a know-it-all but being a plumber since 1980 does qualify me in this regard. It really is a lot simpler than portrayed in the video.
For some reason you said it will take 2 minutes just to drain the tank.
I have to ask, why drain the tank? Disconnecting the supply hose does not let the water flow out of the tank onto the floor. Get the job done right without all the extra work.
Even if you felt you must drain the tank, once you push the handle down most toilet tanks will be drained in less than 10 seconds. If it takes 2 minutes for the water to empty out of the tank when you flush the toilet then I think you got a bigger problem than water-hammer.
took 20 min to unscrew 😂😂
Water hammer
Damn no luck for me still making that noise
20 minutes to unscrew the valves?!?! smh
كم سعر الانبوبه
TWO Pressure Regulator Values... that's what causes water hammers. Remove one, problem solved.
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Bickerbuddy
This is NOTHING but a commercial. Why didn't you show what the "thud" sound was like but JUST tell us when the thing is right there in front for the world to see.......
Righty tightly lefty lousy
Teriable!! Please stick to something you know! Good video quality! Your noise is from a bad angle stop.
ارجو الرد بالعربي
whenever I see a new tool that explains everything of the person's ability and knowledge of what he's trying to pull off good try though 😏
Lol what??
؟
Commercial people......
Чудо-сантехник! Это же издевательство над американками!
Poor hack doesn't know how to use or adjust pump pliers.
Wrong use of tool.