The cheapest way to just add a turbo is using GM 6.5 turbo parts. Except you can’t run the factory air conditioning since the turbo and the evaporator want to live in the same spot. That means Vintage air needs to be retrofitted. Unless you have rear ac like I do in my ‘87 V20 Suburban. Then you are left with less cheap options. Banks Engineering stopped making the 6.2 turbo kit years ago. However, there are still some for sale if you search. That kit fits perfectly and works great. I did almost 400 miles of thanksgiving family driving yesterday in mine. Keep in mind a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel with a turbo will be a huge improvement over non turbo. It will never keep up with a modern turbo diesel pulling or hill climbing. I will do a video about the turbo options soon.
It’s helping me! 1989 Chevy Suburban Silverado 4wd, 6.2 NA, Barn Doors etc etc. I will be doing the fuel filter base/spin on upgrade to retain my fuel filter heater and water in fuel sensors(Lord of Junk has a good video about it), in-line 12v fuel pump prior to my filter. It is time to put it back to work and I am excited to do so!!! Please understand in this next part that I am not poor mouthing. I am a disabled Iraq combat veteran and with that being said I am on a bit of a budget. What approach do you recommend taking in order to turbo the 6.2 that I have? I am not really interested in a lot of boost, just enough to tow a camper for six folks and their gear and a smaller twin axle dump trailer for firewood. We live in western nc with a few mountains around and long drawn out hilly terrain. I have no problem in saving up for what I need, just need to know what is needed. I am also interested in the GEP engines. Semper Fi!!!
Hey sir, got a question for you. Have an 83 civilian 6.2 with the two spin on fuel filter setup. I replaced the injection pump and am trying to prime it. I filled both filters and I know the shut off solenoid is operating. I'm getting fuel out the return line but nothing to the cylinders. Any advice? Don't want to burn out the starter just priming it. Pump is good, was bench tested at the shop by a pro. TIA
I have looked and can’t find my paperwork for that pump. Remember my M715 has a CUCV 12/24 volt electrical system. The fuel pump is 12 volt. I am not able to put links in the comments. But, Summit Racing Delphi FD0038 looks to be the exact same part.
I was hoping to add a fuel pump to help with the hard starting issues, I’ve swapped to a modified starter solenoid “dog head mod” and now I’m rebuilding these battery cables to 2/0 gauge wire. Fresh batteries and new remanufactured starter. I think it wasn’t starting from a compound of issues, air in the fuel lines, bad battery cables, bad starter relay that wore down the batteries and starter. Hopefully when I’m done with these fixes it fired right up! Thanks for the tip
Question i,am having the same issues geting my macanical fuel pump to prime and move fuel is it ok to run a electric fuel pump all the time in line beforehand of the macanical fuel pump all the time
You can run an electric pump before the mechanical lift pump all you want. The only down side is if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump fails. The electric pump could push fuel through the broken mechanical pump into the crank case.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 ok thanks sound good the other question I have is if you have the electric fuel pump fail will the mechanical be able to suck fuel though it ,its the small diaphragm kind like you had
@@roberthorn8235 The electric pump in the video is only used to prime the system like in the video. The rest of the time fuel is sucked through it by the mechanical pump.
Thank you sir, that sure helped me with my first 6.2L issue. To the point but thorough. Damn pink wire.
The cheapest way to just add a turbo is using GM 6.5 turbo parts. Except you can’t run the factory air conditioning since the turbo and the evaporator want to live in the same spot. That means Vintage air needs to be retrofitted. Unless you have rear ac like I do in my ‘87 V20 Suburban. Then you are left with less cheap options. Banks Engineering stopped making the 6.2 turbo kit years ago. However, there are still some for sale if you search. That kit fits perfectly and works great. I did almost 400 miles of thanksgiving family driving yesterday in mine.
Keep in mind a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel with a turbo will be a huge improvement over non turbo. It will never keep up with a modern turbo diesel pulling or hill climbing. I will do a video about the turbo options soon.
What about a supercharger?
@@jhsevs Supposedly a supercharger meant for the 6.2/6.5 does exist. I have heard of them but never even seen a picture. It should work.
It’s helping me! 1989 Chevy Suburban Silverado 4wd, 6.2 NA, Barn Doors etc etc. I will be doing the fuel filter base/spin on upgrade to retain my fuel filter heater and water in fuel sensors(Lord of Junk has a good video about it), in-line 12v fuel pump prior to my filter. It is time to put it back to work and I am excited to do so!!!
Please understand in this next part that I am not poor mouthing. I am a disabled Iraq combat veteran and with that being said I am on a bit of a budget.
What approach do you recommend taking in order to turbo the 6.2 that I have? I am not really interested in a lot of boost, just enough to tow a camper for six folks and their gear and a smaller twin axle dump trailer for firewood. We live in western nc with a few mountains around and long drawn out hilly terrain. I have no problem in saving up for what I need, just need to know what is needed. I am also interested in the GEP engines. Semper Fi!!!
Hey sir, got a question for you. Have an 83 civilian 6.2 with the two spin on fuel filter setup. I replaced the injection pump and am trying to prime it. I filled both filters and I know the shut off solenoid is operating. I'm getting fuel out the return line but nothing to the cylinders. Any advice? Don't want to burn out the starter just priming it. Pump is good, was bench tested at the shop by a pro. TIA
Figure 3-4 minutes of combined cranking time to get fuel at the injectors. I count to 20, stop, use my watch to measure 2 minutes and then repeat.
What part number and make of fuel pump by the tank did you use? Thank you!
I have looked and can’t find my paperwork for that pump. Remember my M715 has a CUCV 12/24 volt electrical system. The fuel pump is 12 volt. I am not able to put links in the comments. But, Summit Racing Delphi FD0038 looks to be the exact same part.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 perfect! yeah my m1009 has had constant starting issues since I swapped to the spin on filter type.
I was hoping to add a fuel pump to help with the hard starting issues, I’ve swapped to a modified starter solenoid “dog head mod” and now I’m rebuilding these battery cables to 2/0 gauge wire. Fresh batteries and new remanufactured starter. I think it wasn’t starting from a compound of issues, air in the fuel lines, bad battery cables, bad starter relay that wore down the batteries and starter. Hopefully when I’m done with these fixes it fired right up! Thanks for the tip
Question i,am having the same issues geting my macanical fuel pump to prime and move fuel is it ok to run a electric fuel pump all the time in line beforehand of the macanical fuel pump all the time
You can run an electric pump before the mechanical lift pump all you want. The only down side is if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump fails. The electric pump could push fuel through the broken mechanical pump into the crank case.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 ok thanks sound good the other question I have is if you have the electric fuel pump fail will the mechanical be able to suck fuel though it ,its the small diaphragm kind like you had
@@roberthorn8235 The electric pump in the video is only used to prime the system like in the video. The rest of the time fuel is sucked through it by the mechanical pump.