The cheapest way to just add a turbo is using GM 6.5 turbo parts. Except you can’t run the factory air conditioning since the turbo and the evaporator want to live in the same spot. That means Vintage air needs to be retrofitted. Unless you have rear ac like I do in my ‘87 V20 Suburban. Then you are left with less cheap options. Banks Engineering stopped making the 6.2 turbo kit years ago. However, there are still some for sale if you search. That kit fits perfectly and works great. I did almost 400 miles of thanksgiving family driving yesterday in mine. Keep in mind a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel with a turbo will be a huge improvement over non turbo. It will never keep up with a modern turbo diesel pulling or hill climbing. I will do a video about the turbo options soon.
Hey sir, got a question for you. Have an 83 civilian 6.2 with the two spin on fuel filter setup. I replaced the injection pump and am trying to prime it. I filled both filters and I know the shut off solenoid is operating. I'm getting fuel out the return line but nothing to the cylinders. Any advice? Don't want to burn out the starter just priming it. Pump is good, was bench tested at the shop by a pro. TIA
It’s helping me! 1989 Chevy Suburban Silverado 4wd, 6.2 NA, Barn Doors etc etc. I will be doing the fuel filter base/spin on upgrade to retain my fuel filter heater and water in fuel sensors(Lord of Junk has a good video about it), in-line 12v fuel pump prior to my filter. It is time to put it back to work and I am excited to do so!!! Please understand in this next part that I am not poor mouthing. I am a disabled Iraq combat veteran and with that being said I am on a bit of a budget. What approach do you recommend taking in order to turbo the 6.2 that I have? I am not really interested in a lot of boost, just enough to tow a camper for six folks and their gear and a smaller twin axle dump trailer for firewood. We live in western nc with a few mountains around and long drawn out hilly terrain. I have no problem in saving up for what I need, just need to know what is needed. I am also interested in the GEP engines. Semper Fi!!!
I have looked and can’t find my paperwork for that pump. Remember my M715 has a CUCV 12/24 volt electrical system. The fuel pump is 12 volt. I am not able to put links in the comments. But, Summit Racing Delphi FD0038 looks to be the exact same part.
I was hoping to add a fuel pump to help with the hard starting issues, I’ve swapped to a modified starter solenoid “dog head mod” and now I’m rebuilding these battery cables to 2/0 gauge wire. Fresh batteries and new remanufactured starter. I think it wasn’t starting from a compound of issues, air in the fuel lines, bad battery cables, bad starter relay that wore down the batteries and starter. Hopefully when I’m done with these fixes it fired right up! Thanks for the tip
Question i,am having the same issues geting my macanical fuel pump to prime and move fuel is it ok to run a electric fuel pump all the time in line beforehand of the macanical fuel pump all the time
You can run an electric pump before the mechanical lift pump all you want. The only down side is if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump fails. The electric pump could push fuel through the broken mechanical pump into the crank case.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 ok thanks sound good the other question I have is if you have the electric fuel pump fail will the mechanical be able to suck fuel though it ,its the small diaphragm kind like you had
@@roberthorn8235 The electric pump in the video is only used to prime the system like in the video. The rest of the time fuel is sucked through it by the mechanical pump.
Hello I had a question for you guys I’m getting air in my fuel I replaced the return line with a clear line to insure that air is getting into the fuel I then replaced the box style fuel filter which didn’t help then I replaced the Box filter with a screw on filter and still no luck I went ahead and replaced the in tank fuel sending unit as well as the electric fuel pump and the suction line that runs across the frame from the tank side to the electric fuel pump I also replaced all the rubber lines when I added the new spin on fuel filter and I’m still dealing with the same issue it will start after cranks a good bit then it will have a rough idle eventually the idle is good enough to drive and when you do drive you’ll be able to go for a little while until it shuts down on its own. I’ve cracked two injectors to insure all the air is out of the lines but somehow I end up seeing air bubbles. Sorry for writing so much just wanted to be as detailed as possible.
Since air keeps getting in while the engine is running. That means the leak is on the suction side of the fuel pump. Check the fittings on the fuel pump for cracks, take them apart and add teflon tape, tighten the clamps and look for any other place that might let air in. There won’t be a fuel spill there either. Air molecules are smaller than diesel molecules.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 I removed the fuel tank and found the O-Ring on the suction side damaged this is the third time I’ve replaced the O-Ring I’m trying to figure out what would cause damage to it since I insure it goes on straight and is lubricated also. I added teflon tape. To see if it helps. Any suggestions on why the O-Ring might be getting damaged ?
@@niamats1 If you are talking about the big O-ring between the fuel tank and the sender/pick up assembly, then that only serves to keep fuel from leaking out the top of the tank. It has nothing to do with your air in the fuel problem.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 I’m referring to the small O-ring that goes from the fuel sending unit to the fuel pick up line. I notice the brand of fuel sending unit I got was damaging the o-ring I ordered another one in hope that it’s a faulty fuel sending unit
Thank you sir, that sure helped me with my first 6.2L issue. To the point but thorough. Damn pink wire.
The cheapest way to just add a turbo is using GM 6.5 turbo parts. Except you can’t run the factory air conditioning since the turbo and the evaporator want to live in the same spot. That means Vintage air needs to be retrofitted. Unless you have rear ac like I do in my ‘87 V20 Suburban. Then you are left with less cheap options. Banks Engineering stopped making the 6.2 turbo kit years ago. However, there are still some for sale if you search. That kit fits perfectly and works great. I did almost 400 miles of thanksgiving family driving yesterday in mine.
Keep in mind a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel with a turbo will be a huge improvement over non turbo. It will never keep up with a modern turbo diesel pulling or hill climbing. I will do a video about the turbo options soon.
What about a supercharger?
@@jhsevs Supposedly a supercharger meant for the 6.2/6.5 does exist. I have heard of them but never even seen a picture. It should work.
Hey sir, got a question for you. Have an 83 civilian 6.2 with the two spin on fuel filter setup. I replaced the injection pump and am trying to prime it. I filled both filters and I know the shut off solenoid is operating. I'm getting fuel out the return line but nothing to the cylinders. Any advice? Don't want to burn out the starter just priming it. Pump is good, was bench tested at the shop by a pro. TIA
Figure 3-4 minutes of combined cranking time to get fuel at the injectors. I count to 20, stop, use my watch to measure 2 minutes and then repeat.
It’s helping me! 1989 Chevy Suburban Silverado 4wd, 6.2 NA, Barn Doors etc etc. I will be doing the fuel filter base/spin on upgrade to retain my fuel filter heater and water in fuel sensors(Lord of Junk has a good video about it), in-line 12v fuel pump prior to my filter. It is time to put it back to work and I am excited to do so!!!
Please understand in this next part that I am not poor mouthing. I am a disabled Iraq combat veteran and with that being said I am on a bit of a budget.
What approach do you recommend taking in order to turbo the 6.2 that I have? I am not really interested in a lot of boost, just enough to tow a camper for six folks and their gear and a smaller twin axle dump trailer for firewood. We live in western nc with a few mountains around and long drawn out hilly terrain. I have no problem in saving up for what I need, just need to know what is needed. I am also interested in the GEP engines. Semper Fi!!!
What part number and make of fuel pump by the tank did you use? Thank you!
I have looked and can’t find my paperwork for that pump. Remember my M715 has a CUCV 12/24 volt electrical system. The fuel pump is 12 volt. I am not able to put links in the comments. But, Summit Racing Delphi FD0038 looks to be the exact same part.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 perfect! yeah my m1009 has had constant starting issues since I swapped to the spin on filter type.
I was hoping to add a fuel pump to help with the hard starting issues, I’ve swapped to a modified starter solenoid “dog head mod” and now I’m rebuilding these battery cables to 2/0 gauge wire. Fresh batteries and new remanufactured starter. I think it wasn’t starting from a compound of issues, air in the fuel lines, bad battery cables, bad starter relay that wore down the batteries and starter. Hopefully when I’m done with these fixes it fired right up! Thanks for the tip
Question i,am having the same issues geting my macanical fuel pump to prime and move fuel is it ok to run a electric fuel pump all the time in line beforehand of the macanical fuel pump all the time
You can run an electric pump before the mechanical lift pump all you want. The only down side is if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump fails. The electric pump could push fuel through the broken mechanical pump into the crank case.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 ok thanks sound good the other question I have is if you have the electric fuel pump fail will the mechanical be able to suck fuel though it ,its the small diaphragm kind like you had
@@roberthorn8235 The electric pump in the video is only used to prime the system like in the video. The rest of the time fuel is sucked through it by the mechanical pump.
What kind of PSI is that electric pump
5-8 psi. It is pretty low and doesn’t need to do much more than get the fuel to the inlet of the Injection pump. Thanks for watching.
Hello I had a question for you guys I’m getting air in my fuel I replaced the return line with a clear line to insure that air is getting into the fuel I then replaced the box style fuel filter which didn’t help then I replaced the Box filter with a screw on filter and still no luck I went ahead and replaced the in tank fuel sending unit as well as the electric fuel pump and the suction line that runs across the frame from the tank side to the electric fuel pump I also replaced all the rubber lines when I added the new spin on fuel filter and I’m still dealing with the same issue it will start after cranks a good bit then it will have a rough idle eventually the idle is good enough to drive and when you do drive you’ll be able to go for a little while until it shuts down on its own. I’ve cracked two injectors to insure all the air is out of the lines but somehow I end up seeing air bubbles. Sorry for writing so much just wanted to be as detailed as possible.
Since air keeps getting in while the engine is running. That means the leak is on the suction side of the fuel pump. Check the fittings on the fuel pump for cracks, take them apart and add teflon tape, tighten the clamps and look for any other place that might let air in. There won’t be a fuel spill there either. Air molecules are smaller than diesel molecules.
@@timsteachablemoments1786thanks I’ll start with the tape and move forward from there
@@timsteachablemoments1786 I removed the fuel tank and found the O-Ring on the suction side damaged this is the third time I’ve replaced the O-Ring I’m trying to figure out what would cause damage to it since I insure it goes on straight and is lubricated also. I added teflon tape. To see if it helps. Any suggestions on why the O-Ring might be getting damaged ?
@@niamats1 If you are talking about the big O-ring between the fuel tank and the sender/pick up assembly, then that only serves to keep fuel from leaking out the top of the tank. It has nothing to do with your air in the fuel problem.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 I’m referring to the small O-ring that goes from the fuel sending unit to the fuel pick up line. I notice the brand of fuel sending unit I got was damaging the o-ring I ordered another one in hope that it’s a faulty fuel sending unit