Your design is ingenious. Using those quick connections makes it super easy to make changes on the fly, I have never seen such an easy simple set up that works so well. Hats off to you my friends great job!
Started watching your videos 2 years ago with the Micro Hydro Water Wheel, you've come a long way mate. Never wanted a river to run through my garden so much.
I’m a cyclist and I guess that Watts portion of the title pulled this into my feed, since I train and race with a powermeter. Had no idea what the hell you were talking at the beginning but stayed until the end and fascinating.
Im my experience of Peltons, the wheel should definitely be vertical, with the housing as large as possible to reduce losses from interaction of the exiting water with the casing. Also, the nozzle shape and alignment is fairly critical. If you want to use the nozzles that you are currently using, i would suggest possibly mounting them side by side on an adjustable bracket, aimed at the bottom of the wheel. That way you can align them so each of the streams hit the centre of each of the pair of the buckets through the main part of the drive stroke. By fine adjusting the alignment of the streams you can tailor your rpm / power. Cool project though :-)
The key with those Pelton wheels is having the jet stream lined up perfectly to transfer maximum force/efficiency onto the cups. They are also designed to have the water speed almost match the wheel speed so that all the force of the water is transferred into rotational motion - the water should fall downwards from the wheel. So any kind of housing should be circular but with space around the wheel. Hope that helps. Cool design!
If the velocity of the wheel was the same as the velocity of the stream, then no significant force would be imparted onto the wheel. Something is wrong with your understanding of physics.
The water should be left with no energy, ie stationary. It should be free to just drop out of the way. The turbulence in your housing is evidence of huge losses. I used Fisher and Paykel smart drive alternators from NZ. These have a rotor that can be withdrawn from the stator so the load can be controlled for speed matching. They are good for 1000 watts at about 1200 rpm, output at approx 450V three phase. Switchmode power supplies can deliver low voltage for batteries much simpler than MPPT. We lived off grid on three of these for 15 years in NZ. They also work well at low rpm, say 200 charging 24V DC with just a bridge rectifier..
Your Pelton wheel is flooded! Nost of the "power" generated is churning water around in the chamber. Pelton wheels are designed to be totally free of water except for the jet impingement. The "chamber" should be "NOT". It should be totally open to the lower water reservoir. Ideally water will exit in streams in the opposite direction from the jets.
The problem is that he has the hoses shooting water straight at the Pelton wheel which makes the water in turn shoot up and down out of the spoon blades...his hoses should shoot at the top side of the blade so the water shoots into the wall at a lower level than the wheel instead of up and falling back on it and creating unnecessary friction. Also in a design like this where the wheel is in the horizontal the bottom side doesn't need to be spoon-like..since it's going straight into a pit. Pelton is better suited for vertical designs to get the water shot away from the wheel..that's why both sides are spoon-like. He's losing power by having the bottom blade be spoony instead of a straight blade right into the pit
I agree. As for how to optimize the turbine to prevent sloshing, consider redoing the turbine set-up so that it's vertical rather than horizontal, with the jet hitting the bottom of the turbine. The water then will immediately go down into the reservoir instead of sloshing around. EDIT: Nevermind, if you're moving to Turgo turbine then that's simpler.
I think you should make the housing round, and possibly perforated so the water can exit the turbine radially with minimal interaction on the turbine wheel itself.
I love stuff like this. When you turned the water back on for the first time I couldn’t help but notice all of the used water being ejected from the turbine was enveloping the turbine itself. It looks like the size of that box would be a serious loss in efficiency caused by excess water around it. Seems it would be a better idea to make that box as big as possible to allow the water to be ejected far from the turbine to drain down the sides, and not interfere with any moving parts.
Nice to see it running with a good output. i think the gain you are seeing there isnt to do with the size, in fact the larger turbine would be less efficient. its because the smaller one has to few spoons and the jet skips the gap. with your high head and low flow a small amount of water is a lot of energy and the biger turbine has the correct spacing of spoons so that the jet does not miss momentarily. That is where i think that gain came from. i think you would get a bigger gain if the smaller turbine was sized to your nozzles with the correct number of spoons.
Congrats on 100k! It's nice to see you drop by once in a while. I'm excited to see how your wind turbine works out. The smaller one still wasn't the right diameter for my PMA. It was spinning so quickly that my open circuit volts were exceeding my charge controller maximum, I was seeing 209VDC and over 3200 RPM. I'm trying to design it so that if it ever runs unloaded that it won't self-destruct or fry something. Noise and vibrations were excessive as well. It's a physical impossibility to mount more spoons on the smaller one without cutting modifying the mounting ears on the spoons. This is why I went with a larger runner, Spencer is still flummoxed that I'm getting such high RPM from the big runner too! It's just difficult to grasp the pressure I'm working with. The larger diameter does help with the spoon engagement arc or whatever the technical term would be. With the larger runner I'm at 2020rpm and 128VDC open circuit and 1020RPM and 69VDC loaded which I feel are far less extreme numbers. As I recall from earlier conversations you operate yours at about 700rpm so mine is still 30% faster. I think the gain came from less friction losses due to a lower rpm and less windage due to a larger housing, and maybe better jet alignment with no blowby.
@@JoeMalovich Thanks, im actually closer to 150k now :) If it would be any help to you i can work out what your rpm would be at any head and turbine pcd. the one you are using must be around 350mm to get that rpm. my system runs at about 1000 rpm loaded, and around twice that unloaded. but that changes depending on flow losses. but around 100rpm. my turbine would do 4100rpm unloaded with your presure.
@@KrisHarbour - would there be loss caused by the water bouncing off the turbine turbine housing and back into the turbine. The water appears almost to hit the spoons at right angles. I would have thought a circular turbine housing allowing for the spent water to exit without hitting the spoons - causing back pressure.
@@Robuster82 With a pelton turbine yes. as the water is flung off the turbine. with a turgo much less so as the water is directed downward and out the bottom. It is only a very small amount though even for pelton turbines. The best shape of housing for a pelton is curved and vertical for this reason. the shape of housing used for this turbine is much more suited to a turgo.
I would recommend opening and closing the main valves from the penstock a bit slower to not have such large pressure spikes as seen on your gauge. I would hate to see you break the pipe somewhere from either a pressure spike or it rubbing against a rock as it grows/contracts under pressure.
I think it would be helpful to change the shape of the turbine box from cubic to cylindrical with as little extra spacing as possible. By doing so, the water after hitting the turbine could be channeled in a centrifugal motion instead of crashing on the wall of the box. Great video.
I cringe when I keep seeing ball-valves used.... Change to a gate valve on outside of box, use second inside to stop water after the T-piece and guage. You can then allow bypass water while working on it to avoid freeze. 3-pin Anderson connector of even Banana Plugs make for fast electrical. The box while being temporary looks like plenty of waste water is falling back on to the wheel and will be making parasitic drag. Possible option in your box, put ledge side around the entire inside wall, use a full-size peice of polycarbonate to mount the turbine and alternator. Jets will need their own bolted mounts but least the spent water will be thrown well away from the wheel. Upgrade your cabling, you have gone a lot lower on volatge thus current has risen, over a long run, losses will increase.
Properly sized ball valves have the least hydraulic loss thru them This matters at high water velocity. Substituting gate valves will make a real reduction in a system that is efficient.
Wouldn't it work better if that box was round ? I feel like when that water hits the edge of that box it splashes and that would be unnecessary resistence for that wheel. Just a theory
Pelton wheels operate most efficiently when the speed of the spoons is one half the speed of the water jet. This is fairly easy to calculate. This exercise is left for the student.
The charger is MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking). It will adjust the voltage for maximum output power, and that will be near a wheel peripheral speed of half the water speed. It may find an optimum a bit off due to cup shape is not at optimum exactly perpendicular and also optimize a bit to increase RPM due to wire losses and if the box distorts water somehow. MPPT regulators solve a lot of problems for homebrew projects. There are even step-up/boost MPPT regulators operating from as low as 5V input. The best is to select the diameter of the pelton wheel to obtain the maximum RPM the alternator is designed for. The power loss in all wires and windings is proportional to I^2 so delivering power at as high voltage as possible is great. Also the water speed can be checked reading the open circuit (no load) voltage of the alternator. Regulator will have to handle that RPM anyway when battery is fully charged if no dump load, water diverter or nozzle valve feedback is used.. It may be the cups are inefficient if wheel is too small and each cup operate over a large angle
Hi joe. I like your setup. in your video summary you touched on the amps being a bottle neck due to 7 amps going thru the wire, 16g can handle roughly 10 amps however distance as you know is the factor you are actually facing.. if distance is an issue your better doing HIGHER volts across the line to keep the amps low and then convert at the box. personally, thats how i would do it. i love the set up you have going.
This probably isn't a problem at ~40A, but it might be worth looking into: I can't remember if you've mentioned in your past videos about the wire guage from the water wheel (I haven't actually watched all of them if I'm honest), but now that you've got less rpms on the same alternator, you're going to be more dependant on the resistivity of the cables themselves (less rpm = less voltage, more current -> more voltage drop). If you're ever going to re-wire the cables in the ground, maybe consider putting in some sense wires to run parallel to your main current carrying wires just to compare the voltage drop across them at the charge controller.
Why dont you put the 2 batteries you have in series to work @ 24V if you think working at a higher voltage would help. It would halve the current from the charge controller to the batteries too, so less losses in the cables.
you can see from the turbine blade inserts your man knows what he's doing. I doubt anyone will come up with a better design for blades in the near future.
For anyone who thinks he was tightening it the wrong way......he was lining up the thread so it did not cross thread and fuck it up! I actually had a guy stand behind me when he called me round to do his radiator, he told me i was turning the union valve the wrong way, i put down the tools and said "its a good thing you called me because you dont have a clue, and when i need advice on how to do my job i will quit doing it"
I enjoyed this video, I wish I had a hydro resource at my home. This said, Is the generator optimized for your torque created at the shaft? Speed of rotation? Yes parasitic drag comments are part of the story but you said this is more of a proof of concept rig. Love those food grade pipe fittings. 12 KWH per day Outstanding !
Agreed, should be circular shape not a box, doing so would assist in making the water go down, like a funnel/corkscrew. Putting Corkscrew type fins in the bottom of the shoot would force the water out faster as well.. I bet it would spin much faster. Kinda like a Turbo.
That's awesome. I'm gonna say I wouldn't use those "quick" connects they seem to not be so quick..... But hey if that's what you like then go for it, respect.
i noticed once while cleaning paint roller brushes with the hosepipe. that if you make a fan of the water with your thumb, it could spin the roller up to a healthy speed... I bet it has some kind of application
@Logic Hurts Idiots those who attack a persons argument solely on grammar or syntax, in truth, have no argument. What you've just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul. haha
@Heads Mess honestly yah... I'd smooth the corners of the box too, and angle them down the drain so that splash back isnt happening. A couple 3d printed radius could do it.
Hello Joe. Cool setup. The round casing is the way to go. Like a donut, the half-toroid is a perfect diffuser for the spent water and the noise! Stainless perf metal will let water pass through and stall that water long enough to use it's film strength to absorb a lot of the sound. Please check for proper clearances at speed!
First time seeing this video. This is pretty cool, though intrigued, I'm confused as to where the water is coming from and what you are using the power for.
Hi Joe - I was wondering if a close-fitting circular shroud (i..e a bent bit of sheet metal) within housing plywood for the turbine might improve the efficiency even further (you'd have to have gaps to let the jet spray in of course). There's quite a lot of empty space within the housing so those Pelton buckets will be wasting a little energy circulating it around. If you could reduce the amount of air that the buckets are moving around then you might gain a couple of extra watts. (Much the same as how the pitch of a vacuum cleaner goes up when you block the hose.. less air is moving, so less work is done so the motor and it will spin up to a higher RPM). Cheers!!
Excellent work, the only things j would suggest is rotating the box by 45 degrees so the pipes sticking out go into the corners, just a new base would do and will make it smoother flow same as changing the Tee piece to a symmetrical Y as you will lose pressure in the direction change
Hi Joe, enjoy watching you figure it out and fine tuning your system. Thank you for these videos, its very insightful. I am looking at something similar on our property. Is there a way to get in touch with you to run something past you? Nothing at the moment setup except good water flow high up from a mountain. Thank you.
I would add some floats to controlled shut-off valves in your barrel to control the large and small jet feeds at your turbine end. A way to automate the flow control for the supply. Kind of like the floats used in toilets. ;)
Maybe you can improve the eficiency by changing the shape of the housing to a round one instead of the square shape. You can see the turbulence and low preasure zones in the corners of the box. Nice man cave you have there!
There are far more accessories available at 12v from the marine and automotive industries than exist at 24 (truck) and 50v (telecoms). BUT inverters are easily available to convert the higher voltages into mains.
That might be true, the best way to remedy that would be to have a shaped shroud that 'excavates' the off-spray ensuring that it does not splash back against the wheel. Then one would know. I think that one could maybe put a pair of stationary rings of blades [something generally/vaguely like this, only with collector rings to ensure that said splash has no way to fall back and land back onto the spinning peltier impeller system, and you would do best with one for the top if you can only get one direction, but if both directions could be had, put one above and below... www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-32112K-Electric-Replacement/dp/B003EOCG88 also it is possible to make something like this from heating, bending and gluing PVC pipe really cheaply, if you have the time and energy to invest in it ] to ensure the water is indeed directed away from the middle on a continuous and consistent basis.
This may be off topic, but someone might find it interesting. Over unity electric generator. By AMA. Segment 1: 1 motor with bar connected to it standing vertically. Circular disc connected to bar that has magnets embedded in it surrounded in high permeability material to focus magnets outward pushing force in an upwards direction from top of disc. Segment 2: Hollowed out cylindrical Bar of material horizontally positioned. Flat hollowed out ring shaped material with openings around its outer top flat edge. Magnets surrounded in high permeability material embedded in these openings. Magnets positioned in openings around ring are in at least 1 of 2 configurations either all N magnetic field pushing out or N,S,N,S all around it. Just depends on whether your going for Piston structure or spinning structure explained below & whether you want it to be DC or AC current. Place these all along the cylindrical bar connected to it solidly, except at far ends of bar. At both ends of bar place ring of material that can be magnetically repelled in specific locations. (magnetically repelled in specific location is in reference to outside of ring area that faces away from center of bar)(Other side of same ring facing in towards center of bar is capable of being magnetically repelled all around) Ring must be connected solidly to bar. points of repulsion on these rings is off set from each other on each end of bar. 3 Hollow ring structures with small square bars protruding from each. Ring structure has all magnetic repulsion on inside of ring shape & can rap around the main bar so that the bar wont be causing friction on things as it moves back and forth or spins. 1st positioned around far left of bar, 2nd position at center of bar (be sure to leave enough room for magnetic structures to be able to move back and forth without hitting it) & 3rd positioned on far right of bar. Tube structure is constructed in two parts that fit together on top of each other length wise over main structure. Tube structure has 3 square openings for the bars that the Ring structures that are connected around the main bar keeping it from causing friction on structure, to slide into. This tube structure is designed with material that does not block magnetic fields. Perhaps some type of transparent material glass or other. At both ends of the tube structure there is a built in circular groove that will house a round disc. The ceiling/floor/left side/& right side of groove has openings for small magnets to be embedded in it, so that the pushing force from magnets is pushing in towards the edge of disc that goes in this spot. There is also 4 openings located on the top, bottom, left & right positions of the open groove. Small magnets are placed in these spots so when round disc is in position these magnetic fields will hit sideways keeping it from generating friction against structure. Far Ends of bar has Cap structure that screws over tube halves holding them together. Cap structure also has 4 points on inside top, bottom, left & right that have openings. These openings have small embedded magnets in them that exert there pushing force outwards (sideways) so it will keep disc in position, generating no friction against structure. Cap is made of material like tube so it does not block magnetic fields. (Note: These magnets in groove and cap structure are only needed for piston design. If Disc is directly connected to main bar so as it spins the bar spins, magnets are not needed here). The disc has ring around it (ring of material goes around outer edge and folds over front side & backside a small distance) that is repelled by magnetic fields so the 12 small magnets will keep it lined up but it will be able to spin without causing friction on structure. The disc has openings on it's flat side that face inside of tube and magnets surrounded in high permeability material are embedded in this disc. The disc has small bar that is connected to it's center that goes all the way to the other end of bar structure through the center of the hollowed out bar and connects to disc on other end. Disc on other end is set up the same but magnets embedded in it are off set in comparison. As first disc spins the magnetic fields will push against specific spot on disc connected directly to bar, pushing bar in other direction, once bar is fully pushed over, further spinning of disc will then align the other sides magnet to push it back. Tube structure also has half moon shaped protrusion on inside and on both halves so when tube is connected they line up to make a full ring shape on inside of tube, these half moon shaped protrusions have at least 1 small round opening on it's side in middle of curve that faces away from center of bar. The opening has a small magnet embedded in it so magnetic force is repelling out sideways away from center of bar. The protruding ring is positioned to line up slightly further in towards center of bar then the ring of magnetically repelled material connected directly to bar. This way when bar moves right or left it is magnetically stopped after a short distance. Copper coil setup: Copper coils are wound in at least 1 of 2 ways. Either coiled in circles next to each other (Like if you wound coils around a cylindrical bar) or laid out in a row as if wire was on flat table going up then bent to go down & back up until it formed a flat rectangle of wire bending up and down and then the entire structure folded around tube. Copper windings are then lined up perpendicular to magnetic fields on outside of tube. Ends of copper coils are connected into separate construct that will allow electrical current to flow somewhere else. Circular construct is built like a stand that goes around the outside of motor segment. Circular construct has flat ring of high permeability (magnetic field shielding) material that has small openings that will allow magnetic fields through specific locations. Top of circular construct has groove to allow the horizontal bar to balance on. Circular construct can also be placed on other end of bar so it is balanced. The motor segment is positioned so the disc connected to the bar that is connected to the motor is lined up so the disc passes under the horizontal bars disc that is at end of horizontal bar. The high permeability material keeps the magnetic fields in disc from hitting into the disc that spins or pushes the horizontal bar until just the right moment when the impact will cause the disc in horizontal bar to spin which will perpetuate the piston motion in the horizontal bar. More horizontal bars of the same design are built and positioned around the motor segment in a circular horizontal fashion all the way around. The bar connected to the motor can be increased in length to desired height (As much as motor can handle) and more of the exact same setup is repeated higher and higher up, maximizing the over unity potential of the construct to ridiculous proportions. :D Current from the horizontal bars is diverted to power the motor as needed and all other current is diverted to power my game console or the world. :) Interesting variation to this design would be to connect the spinning discs on far ends of horizontal bar to main bar that magnets are connected to so the magnets spin instead of getting pistoned back and forth. So long as moving magnetic fields are perpendicular to copper wires it should work. By AMA
You should try make a bigger and rounder container. I'm pretty sure all the water bouncing of those angles and getting thrown back into your wheel will be creating some serious drag, should notice an improvement if you manage to get the water away from it once the force has been used. Edit: That's not meant as a criticism btw, just a helpful thought. Guys like you are an inspiration :)
Sorry if im late to the party on this video but I had a couple thought that might prove helpful. Unless its just the nozzle adjustment or there is something I don't understand by this type of wheel (which I think I understand pretty well) I think your box needs to be bigger. You are getting too much turbulence in the waste water. You can see it as the water is splashing back in the opposite direction of the spray coming from the nozzle. It shows up more clearly if you slow down the playback to 1/4 speed. It is especially prevalent in the corners opposite the nozzles but it is happening all over the box. You want it to be able to freely throw the waste water once the push has stopped on each spoon. Ideally you don't want any of the waste water hitting the the front side of any of the spoons. This will cause drag and will slow down the rotation thus decreasing the power. I would increase the box size at least 2 inches in all directions ( perhaps not from the top to the wheel depending on how much it throws vertically). This should cut down on the cavitation action quite a bit as the water will not be bouncing back on itself as much. OR better yet make it round. You will keep more of the circular momentum the waste water has and that should help to drive the wheel with less loss. If I'm not mistaken the original patent for this type of wheel used a circular housings but mounted vertically. I think your horizontal rotation is a better option at it should cut down on baring wear and distribute the force more evenly on the wheel. The only other thing I would think about changing is if you are working with someone to design you spoons/wheels have them put a slight angle to them so that as the water is falling due to gravity the force gets applied. I know it will be minuscule with the distance and the pressure you probably only need a degree or two but if your trying to perfect it and have control over such things it might be worth a look.
Hey Joe, have you considered the increased drag from the back splash on the wheel? I wonder if you could deflect the water away from the wheel some way?
0:09 An interesting way of packing, rest the metal wheel on the delicate plastic blades and then pack in foam on top!! 14:06 get rid of the chamber as it's a water brake and build a jig so you can tune the angle of the jets while running.
Still looks as if there may be undesirable effects from the water that bounces around after it contacts the spoons and before it exits the scene. Keith said it better, earlier. Great fun, though. People should not live where water freezes.
Nice work and video. The velocity of water exiting nozzles remain the same. Using a larger diameter wheel should turn slower based on same water jet velocity. Very nice setup.
This is amazing, I loved the turbine design, you can have spread "blades" and service the turbine once a week. Are those "blades" made out of plastic? Could be milled on aluminum maybe? I really liked your video, keep updating :D
dr1verman I’m not sure what you’re getting at. From what I could see, the alternator is on top of the turbine. You might want to watch the video again.
I really have no idea what I'm talking about but it looks like there is a lot of water turbulence inside the box, wouldn't it be a bit more efficient if the inside of the turbine box had rounded corners or was a straight up circular shape?
Water reaching the sides of the box has already produced work by hitting the turbine first, so aside from splash from wall to wheel, the shape of the box should not be a big issue.
He could 3D print one after the bugs are worked out...he has a printer. Just has to consider the shape to deflect the water properly and if the plastic will handle the stress. 🤔 Bigger, round with baffles.
jack jack I would also like to know is that just the home water system? If I think of it it’s not a silly idea to make something like this in line for water although i would imagine that would rob the water pressure.
I'm not sure of this... IT will probably rob too much pressure and make wait too much, and you will get 500 Watts every year... Or month if you like stay in the shower. Maybe for a swimming pool and not the one you have on a garden... He must have a river near his turbine
2:20 damn that is sexy. Must build, must get going. Heck I wish there was some nice stream next to me. Also, I like coming up with bunch of ideas yet I seldom see any real effort on actually getting them done. I guess it’s just a lot more easier to dream than do.
Mark my words this guy is going to keep building bigger and bigger intill he surpasses the hoover damn in size and electrical output. He may just keep going after that or he may finally be satisfied. Lol Love the channel and this is the kind of stuff I wish would of been more readily available to me when I was a kid. Im 33 just to give you an idea of where my comment comes from. Thank you for all of your hard work. I have no doubt that you are inspiring an untold number of kids.
Your design is ingenious. Using those quick connections makes it super easy to make changes on the fly, I have never seen such an easy simple set up that works so well. Hats off to you my friends great job!
Started watching your videos 2 years ago with the Micro Hydro Water Wheel, you've come a long way mate.
Never wanted a river to run through my garden so much.
KaShuto lol.... I'm moving soon because my old house is on its end and guess what's 100 meters away...
Wago connectors are the best. They are keeping my whole electricity together. Congrats to your 25 % upgrade!
yes the are best, no stupid screws like chocolate block
I’m a cyclist and I guess that Watts portion of the title pulled this into my feed, since I train and race with a powermeter. Had no idea what the hell you were talking at the beginning but stayed until the end and fascinating.
Im my experience of Peltons, the wheel should definitely be vertical, with the housing as large as possible to reduce losses from interaction of the exiting water with the casing. Also, the nozzle shape and alignment is fairly critical. If you want to use the nozzles that you are currently using, i would suggest possibly mounting them side by side on an adjustable bracket, aimed at the bottom of the wheel. That way you can align them so each of the streams hit the centre of each of the pair of the buckets through the main part of the drive stroke. By fine adjusting the alignment of the streams you can tailor your rpm / power.
Cool project though :-)
The first time I'm watching this setup, congrats, this installation is one the cleanest I've seen so far. everything looks so good and easy.
The key with those Pelton wheels is having the jet stream lined up perfectly to transfer maximum force/efficiency onto the cups. They are also designed to have the water speed almost match the wheel speed so that all the force of the water is transferred into rotational motion - the water should fall downwards from the wheel. So any kind of housing should be circular but with space around the wheel. Hope that helps. Cool design!
Actually for maximum efficiency the Velocity of the bucket should be half of velocity of jet due to Eulers terminal machinery equation
@@philmicuchie7729 I second this Phil!
So approximately toroidal in shape.
If the velocity of the wheel was the same as the velocity of the stream, then no significant force would be imparted onto the wheel. Something is wrong with your understanding of physics.
The water should be left with no energy, ie stationary. It should be free to just drop out of the way. The turbulence in your housing is evidence of huge losses. I used Fisher and Paykel smart drive alternators from NZ. These have a rotor that can be withdrawn from the stator so the load can be controlled for speed matching. They are good for 1000 watts at about 1200 rpm, output at approx 450V three phase. Switchmode power supplies can deliver low voltage for batteries much simpler than MPPT. We lived off grid on three of these for 15 years in NZ. They also work well at low rpm, say 200 charging 24V DC with just a bridge rectifier..
Your Pelton wheel is flooded! Nost of the "power" generated is churning water around in the chamber. Pelton wheels are designed to be totally free of water except for the jet impingement. The "chamber" should be "NOT". It should be totally open to the lower water reservoir. Ideally water will exit in streams in the opposite direction from the jets.
Couldn he just make a bigger and higher box? Maybe only higher to give the water more room to exit.
The problem is that he has the hoses shooting water straight at the Pelton wheel which makes the water in turn shoot up and down out of the spoon blades...his hoses should shoot at the top side of the blade so the water shoots into the wall at a lower level than the wheel instead of up and falling back on it and creating unnecessary friction.
Also in a design like this where the wheel is in the horizontal the bottom side doesn't need to be spoon-like..since it's going straight into a pit.
Pelton is better suited for vertical designs to get the water shot away from the wheel..that's why both sides are spoon-like. He's losing power by having the bottom blade be spoony instead of a straight blade right into the pit
@@TiredOfY I was thinking exactly the same while watching this and i don't even know anything about pelton wheels
Yea it felt slowed down by the ambiant slushing of water. Need more optimisation indeed.
I agree. As for how to optimize the turbine to prevent sloshing, consider redoing the turbine set-up so that it's vertical rather than horizontal, with the jet hitting the bottom of the turbine. The water then will immediately go down into the reservoir instead of sloshing around. EDIT: Nevermind, if you're moving to Turgo turbine then that's simpler.
I think you should make the housing round, and possibly perforated so the water can exit the turbine radially with minimal interaction on the turbine wheel itself.
I agree. The corners are causing lots of cavitation.
He should 3d print one!
2 volute scrolls of 180⁰ length will help. But I'll guess a max gain of 10 to 20W of power.
Yassss definitely an upgrade
Using a hexagon you could eject the water through the corners.
The box must be round! Water eddies in the corners, counteract rotation!
there is no box in round, cause it called "BOX"
I love stuff like this. When you turned the water back on for the first time I couldn’t help but notice all of the used water being ejected from the turbine was enveloping the turbine itself. It looks like the size of that box would be a serious loss in efficiency caused by excess water around it. Seems it would be a better idea to make that box as big as possible to allow the water to be ejected far from the turbine to drain down the sides, and not interfere with any moving parts.
Agree
We need to get this guy a quality-made steel turbine of the right size.
Nice to see it running with a good output. i think the gain you are seeing there isnt to do with the size, in fact the larger turbine would be less efficient. its because the smaller one has to few spoons and the jet skips the gap. with your high head and low flow a small amount of water is a lot of energy and the biger turbine has the correct spacing of spoons so that the jet does not miss momentarily. That is where i think that gain came from. i think you would get a bigger gain if the smaller turbine was sized to your nozzles with the correct number of spoons.
Congrats on 100k! It's nice to see you drop by once in a while. I'm excited to see how your wind turbine works out.
The smaller one still wasn't the right diameter for my PMA. It was spinning so quickly that my open circuit volts were exceeding my charge controller maximum, I was seeing 209VDC and over 3200 RPM. I'm trying to design it so that if it ever runs unloaded that it won't self-destruct or fry something. Noise and vibrations were excessive as well. It's a physical impossibility to mount more spoons on the smaller one without cutting modifying the mounting ears on the spoons. This is why I went with a larger runner, Spencer is still flummoxed that I'm getting such high RPM from the big runner too! It's just difficult to grasp the pressure I'm working with.
The larger diameter does help with the spoon engagement arc or whatever the technical term would be. With the larger runner I'm at 2020rpm and 128VDC open circuit and 1020RPM and 69VDC loaded which I feel are far less extreme numbers. As I recall from earlier conversations you operate yours at about 700rpm so mine is still 30% faster. I think the gain came from less friction losses due to a lower rpm and less windage due to a larger housing, and maybe better jet alignment with no blowby.
@@JoeMalovich Thanks, im actually closer to 150k now :)
If it would be any help to you i can work out what your rpm would be at any head and turbine pcd. the one you are using must be around 350mm to get that rpm.
my system runs at about 1000 rpm loaded, and around twice that unloaded. but that changes depending on flow losses. but around 100rpm. my turbine would do 4100rpm unloaded with your presure.
@@KrisHarbour Thanks for the offer about calculations, I'm pretty good with numbers though.
@@KrisHarbour - would there be loss caused by the water bouncing off the turbine turbine housing and back into the turbine.
The water appears almost to hit the spoons at right angles.
I would have thought a circular turbine housing allowing for the spent water to exit without hitting the spoons - causing back pressure.
@@Robuster82 With a pelton turbine yes. as the water is flung off the turbine. with a turgo much less so as the water is directed downward and out the bottom. It is only a very small amount though even for pelton turbines. The best shape of housing for a pelton is curved and vertical for this reason. the shape of housing used for this turbine is much more suited to a turgo.
I would recommend opening and closing the main valves from the penstock a bit slower to not have such large pressure spikes as seen on your gauge. I would hate to see you break the pipe somewhere from either a pressure spike or it rubbing against a rock as it grows/contracts under pressure.
I think it would be helpful to change the shape of the turbine box from cubic to cylindrical with as little extra spacing as possible. By doing so, the water after hitting the turbine could be channeled in a centrifugal motion instead of crashing on the wall of the box. Great video.
The ease with which you can remove that thing is amazing!
He sure has it set up for maintenance in mind.
I cringe when I keep seeing ball-valves used.... Change to a gate valve on outside of box, use second inside to stop water after the T-piece and guage. You can then allow bypass water while working on it to avoid freeze. 3-pin Anderson connector of even Banana Plugs make for fast electrical. The box while being temporary looks like plenty of waste water is falling back on to the wheel and will be making parasitic drag. Possible option in your box, put ledge side around the entire inside wall, use a full-size peice of polycarbonate to mount the turbine and alternator. Jets will need their own bolted mounts but least the spent water will be thrown well away from the wheel. Upgrade your cabling, you have gone a lot lower on volatge thus current has risen, over a long run, losses will increase.
Properly sized ball valves have the least hydraulic loss thru them This matters at high water velocity. Substituting gate valves will make a real reduction in a system that is efficient.
Wouldn't it work better if that box was round ?
I feel like when that water hits the edge of that box it splashes and that would be unnecessary resistence for that wheel.
Just a theory
Pelton wheels operate most efficiently when the speed of the spoons is one half the speed of the water jet. This is fairly easy to calculate. This exercise is left for the student.
The turbine should be A Kaplan or the simpler
Propellor style.
Francis third best.
But Pelton impulse?
That is for very high head !
But you’re still not a physicist
No just an engineer at a dam.
I am also not a lawyer
But I know murder is no legal
.
Each turbine type has an efficient operating range of pressure and flow. Look at any basic Water Power text book for an explaination.
The charger is MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking). It will adjust the voltage for maximum output power, and that will be near a wheel peripheral speed of half the water speed. It may find an optimum a bit off due to cup shape is not at optimum exactly perpendicular and also optimize a bit to increase RPM due to wire losses and if the box distorts water somehow.
MPPT regulators solve a lot of problems for homebrew projects. There are even step-up/boost MPPT regulators operating from as low as 5V input.
The best is to select the diameter of the pelton wheel to obtain the maximum RPM the alternator is designed for. The power loss in all wires and windings is proportional to I^2 so delivering power at as high voltage as possible is great.
Also the water speed can be checked reading the open circuit (no load) voltage of the alternator. Regulator will have to handle that RPM anyway when battery is fully charged if no dump load, water diverter or nozzle valve feedback is used..
It may be the cups are inefficient if wheel is too small and each cup operate over a large angle
I wish I had something intelligent to say. You are making great progress. A long way from the water wheel on the old property.
I'd like to see that water wheel coupled to a one foot diameter stator, larger circumference equals faster speeds past coils
This
Interesting spoon design. Very clean setup as well. Nice project
This is so great friend, those results are awesome, Hoping for more updates
Hi joe. I like your setup. in your video summary you touched on the amps being a bottle neck due to 7 amps going thru the wire, 16g can handle roughly 10 amps however distance as you know is the factor you are actually facing.. if distance is an issue your better doing HIGHER volts across the line to keep the amps low and then convert at the box. personally, thats how i would do it.
i love the set up you have going.
Well done!
Your perseverance is paying off!
Well done ! Please keep us posted. Many thanks.
This probably isn't a problem at ~40A, but it might be worth looking into:
I can't remember if you've mentioned in your past videos about the wire guage from the water wheel (I haven't actually watched all of them if I'm honest), but now that you've got less rpms on the same alternator, you're going to be more dependant on the resistivity of the cables themselves (less rpm = less voltage, more current -> more voltage drop). If you're ever going to re-wire the cables in the ground, maybe consider putting in some sense wires to run parallel to your main current carrying wires just to compare the voltage drop across them at the charge controller.
Amazing Turbine
Why dont you put the 2 batteries you have in series to work @ 24V if you think working at a higher voltage would help. It would halve the current from the charge controller to the batteries too, so less losses in the cables.
Not to mention its half the amp draw when inverting to 110-120vac. Can be expensive to change some of your hardware though
you can see from the turbine blade inserts your man knows what he's doing. I doubt anyone will come up with a better design for blades in the near future.
What about a used EV battery? You could probably get power your house with peaks mostly of that battery even if it's only 5kwh
For anyone who thinks he was tightening it the wrong way......he was lining up the thread so it did not cross thread and fuck it up!
I actually had a guy stand behind me when he called me round to do his radiator, he told me i was turning the union valve the wrong way, i put down the tools and said "its a good thing you called me because you dont have a clue, and when i need advice on how to do my job i will quit doing it"
The first few words sounded exactly like Gray Still Play's Intro :D
Over 500W nice! that's more like it. Very impressive. If that keeps running it will give you some nice warmth.
I would replace your square box for a round one to improve the water flow velocity and turbulences.
Yeah he is right. Please send another vldeo to change rectangular box to circular turning chamber. You will get more energy
Those clamps are great and good planning ahead for maintenance.
I enjoyed this video, I wish I had a hydro resource at my home. This said, Is the generator optimized for your torque created at the shaft? Speed of rotation? Yes parasitic drag comments are part of the story but you said this is more of a proof of concept rig. Love those food grade pipe fittings. 12 KWH per day Outstanding !
This is so cool and makes me want to learn more.
you have too much water staying up inside the box after hitting the wheel.
Agreed, should be circular shape not a box, doing so would assist in making the water go down, like a funnel/corkscrew. Putting Corkscrew type fins in the bottom of the shoot would force the water out faster as well.. I bet it would spin much faster. Kinda like a Turbo.
Another very good one Joe, what a progress with really nice output at the end, 0.5 kW. 👍💧
I'm not done yet, I should be able to get over 1000W Peak
As much as I would of love to see you forget to turn the water off. It was a good thing you did lol
looks very safe, with the wires and all.
He went to reconnect the water supply and I yelled “did you turn off the water first?!”
That's awesome. I'm gonna say I wouldn't use those "quick" connects they seem to not be so quick..... But hey if that's what you like then go for it, respect.
Me: *shuts running water valve quicky*
My pipe system: YEEEEET
Awesome build. Great design. Great power source. Thank you for sharing.
Water evacuation from turbine housing could be improved. Once it has impacted the turbine wheel it should not come into contact with it anymore.
Loves quick connects on something that rarely needs to be disconnected... smart thinking.
Anyone else when this guy starts breathing hard, you feel like you have worked hard without doing a thing?
The gopro has Automatic Gain Compensation so when I'm quiet it turns up the microphone. I don't actually breathe that hard. I am overweight however.
I remember seeing those liquid sugar cans.
i noticed once while cleaning paint roller brushes with the hosepipe. that if you make a fan of the water with your thumb, it could spin the roller up to a healthy speed... I bet it has some kind of application
your getting a lot of turbulence from the box being square, i feel a circular housing would increase your efficiency by 20%?
@Logic Hurts Idiots at least he didn't make the last your into you're, he's got half of it right
Heads Mess what abt the back splash of waisted jet energy i would think a round Design would create less drag on opposite of spoons.
@Logic Hurts Idiots those who attack a persons argument solely on grammar or syntax, in truth, have no argument. What you've just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul. haha
@Heads Mess honestly yah... I'd smooth the corners of the box too, and angle them down the drain so that splash back isnt happening. A couple 3d printed radius could do it.
You need to look at bearings and nozzles, not the shape of the box
Hello Joe. Cool setup.
The round casing is the way to go. Like a donut, the half-toroid is a perfect diffuser for the spent water and the noise! Stainless perf metal will let water pass through and stall that water long enough to use it's film strength to absorb a lot of the sound. Please check for proper clearances at speed!
My dude........ by the look of that shop you’d be served well to invest in some shelving lol
Great demo btw!
Pretty awesome build. If I ever buy some land, I will probably build something like this.
Andy Dwyer has really come on since his shoe shine days.
i like this guy!
First time seeing this video. This is pretty cool, though intrigued, I'm confused as to where the water is coming from and what you are using the power for.
Water comes from a little creek uphill, and is used for good.
@@aus71383 pressure is created by gravity?? Sorry for my ignorance...
@@mathieuriendeau8398 yes.
@@mathieuriendeau8398 pressure is a function of height and density of the water. Gravity is basically squeezing the mass of water.
@@hughbrown1531 Gravity is just a theory. Because of density of the water the pressure is made.
Moooorrrrreeee torque nice work
Whats producing all of that water pressure? Love this idea.
Wago Nuts!!! I love them.
Hi Joe - I was wondering if a close-fitting circular shroud (i..e a bent bit of sheet metal) within housing plywood for the turbine might improve the efficiency even further (you'd have to have gaps to let the jet spray in of course). There's quite a lot of empty space within the housing so those Pelton buckets will be wasting a little energy circulating it around. If you could reduce the amount of air that the buckets are moving around then you might gain a couple of extra watts. (Much the same as how the pitch of a vacuum cleaner goes up when you block the hose.. less air is moving, so less work is done so the motor and it will spin up to a higher RPM). Cheers!!
5 Gallon bucket ought to do just fine.
I BET A TESSLA TURBINE WOULD WORK ON THAT TOO! It was designed for steam but hi pressure water might work !
That stream must be 100m above this setup to get that kinda pressure
Excellent work, the only things j would suggest is rotating the box by 45 degrees so the pipes sticking out go into the corners, just a new base would do and will make it smoother flow same as changing the Tee piece to a symmetrical Y as you will lose pressure in the direction change
Hi Joe, enjoy watching you figure it out and fine tuning your system. Thank you for these videos, its very insightful. I am looking at something similar on our property. Is there a way to get in touch with you to run something past you? Nothing at the moment setup except good water flow high up from a mountain. Thank you.
malovich@gmail.com to discuss
I would add some floats to controlled shut-off valves in your barrel to control the large and small jet feeds at your turbine end. A way to automate the flow control for the supply. Kind of like the floats used in toilets. ;)
Maybe you can improve the eficiency by changing the shape of the housing to a round one instead of the square shape. You can see the turbulence and low preasure zones in the corners of the box. Nice man cave you have there!
I offer same solutions. I can easily see water hits rectangular box's walls. That reduces your energy.
There are far more accessories available at 12v from the marine and automotive industries than exist at 24 (truck) and 50v (telecoms). BUT inverters are easily available to convert the higher voltages into mains.
Looks likes it's fighting turbulence from being in a square housing...
That might be true, the best way to remedy that would be to have a shaped shroud that 'excavates' the off-spray ensuring that it does not splash back against the wheel. Then one would know.
I think that one could maybe put a pair of stationary rings of blades [something generally/vaguely like this, only with collector rings to ensure that said splash has no way to fall back and land back onto the spinning peltier impeller system, and you would do best with one for the top if you can only get one direction, but if both directions could be had, put one above and below... www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-32112K-Electric-Replacement/dp/B003EOCG88 also it is possible to make something like this from heating, bending and gluing PVC pipe really cheaply, if you have the time and energy to invest in it ] to ensure the water is indeed directed away from the middle on a continuous and consistent basis.
This may be off topic, but someone might find it interesting.
Over unity electric generator. By AMA.
Segment 1: 1 motor with bar connected to it standing vertically. Circular disc connected to bar that has magnets embedded in it surrounded in high permeability material to focus magnets outward pushing force in an upwards direction from top of disc.
Segment 2: Hollowed out cylindrical Bar of material horizontally positioned.
Flat hollowed out ring shaped material with openings around its outer top flat edge.
Magnets surrounded in high permeability material embedded in these openings.
Magnets positioned in openings around ring are in at least 1 of 2 configurations either all N magnetic field pushing out or N,S,N,S all around it. Just depends on whether your going for Piston structure or spinning structure explained below & whether you want it to be DC or AC current.
Place these all along the cylindrical bar connected to it solidly, except at far ends of bar.
At both ends of bar place ring of material that can be magnetically repelled in specific locations. (magnetically repelled in specific location is in reference to outside of ring area that faces away from center of bar)(Other side of same ring facing in towards center of bar is capable of being magnetically repelled all around) Ring must be connected solidly to bar. points of repulsion on these rings is off set from each other on each end of bar.
3 Hollow ring structures with small square bars protruding from each. Ring structure has all magnetic repulsion on inside of ring shape & can rap around the main bar so that the bar wont be causing friction on things as it moves back and forth or spins. 1st positioned around far left of bar, 2nd position at center of bar (be sure to leave enough room for magnetic structures to be able to move back and forth without hitting it) & 3rd positioned on far right of bar.
Tube structure is constructed in two parts that fit together on top of each other length wise over main structure.
Tube structure has 3 square openings for the bars that the Ring structures that are connected around the main bar keeping it from causing friction on structure, to slide into.
This tube structure is designed with material that does not block magnetic fields. Perhaps some type of transparent material glass or other.
At both ends of the tube structure there is a built in circular groove that will house a round disc. The ceiling/floor/left side/& right side of groove has openings for small magnets to be embedded in it, so that the pushing force from magnets is pushing in towards the edge of disc that goes in this spot. There is also 4 openings located on the top, bottom, left & right positions of the open groove. Small magnets are placed in these spots so when round disc is in position these magnetic fields will hit sideways keeping it from generating friction against structure.
Far Ends of bar has Cap structure that screws over tube halves holding them together. Cap structure also has 4 points on inside top, bottom, left & right that have openings. These openings have small embedded magnets in them that exert there pushing force outwards (sideways) so it will keep disc in position, generating no friction against structure. Cap is made of material like tube so it does not block magnetic fields. (Note: These magnets in groove and cap structure are only needed for piston design. If Disc is directly connected to main bar so as it spins the bar spins, magnets are not needed here).
The disc has ring around it (ring of material goes around outer edge and folds over front side & backside a small distance) that is repelled by magnetic fields so the 12 small magnets will keep it lined up but it will be able to spin without causing friction on structure. The disc has openings on it's flat side that face inside of tube and magnets surrounded in high permeability material are embedded in this disc.
The disc has small bar that is connected to it's center that goes all the way to the other end of bar structure through the center of the hollowed out bar and connects to disc on other end. Disc on other end is set up the same but magnets embedded in it are off set in comparison. As first disc spins the magnetic fields will push against specific spot on disc connected directly to bar, pushing bar in other direction, once bar is fully pushed over, further spinning of disc will then align the other sides magnet to push it back.
Tube structure also has half moon shaped protrusion on inside and on both halves so when tube is connected they line up to make a full ring shape on inside of tube, these half moon shaped protrusions have at least 1 small round opening on it's side in middle of curve that faces away from center of bar. The opening has a small magnet embedded in it so magnetic force is repelling out sideways away from center of bar. The protruding ring is positioned to line up slightly further in towards center of bar then the ring of magnetically repelled material connected directly to bar. This way when bar moves right or left it is magnetically stopped after a short distance.
Copper coil setup: Copper coils are wound in at least 1 of 2 ways. Either coiled in circles next to each other (Like if you wound coils around a cylindrical bar) or laid out in a row as if wire was on flat table going up then bent to go down & back up until it formed a flat rectangle of wire bending up and down and then the entire structure folded around tube. Copper windings are then lined up perpendicular to magnetic fields on outside of tube. Ends of copper coils are connected into separate construct that will allow electrical current to flow somewhere else.
Circular construct is built like a stand that goes around the outside of motor segment. Circular construct has flat ring of high permeability (magnetic field shielding) material that has small openings that will allow magnetic fields through specific locations. Top of circular construct has groove to allow the horizontal bar to balance on. Circular construct can also be placed on other end of bar so it is balanced. The motor segment is positioned so the disc connected to the bar that is connected to the motor is lined up so the disc passes under the horizontal bars disc that is at end of horizontal bar. The high permeability material keeps the magnetic fields in disc from hitting into the disc that spins or pushes the horizontal bar until just the right moment when the impact will cause the disc in horizontal bar to spin which will perpetuate the piston motion in the horizontal bar. More horizontal bars of the same design are built and positioned around the motor segment in a circular horizontal fashion all the way around. The bar connected to the motor can be increased in length to desired height (As much as motor can handle) and more of the exact same setup is repeated higher and higher up, maximizing the over unity potential of the construct to ridiculous proportions. :D Current from the horizontal bars is diverted to power the motor as needed and all other current is diverted to power my game console or the world. :) Interesting variation to this design would be to connect the spinning discs on far ends of horizontal bar to main bar that magnets are connected to so the magnets spin instead of getting pistoned back and forth. So long as moving magnetic fields are perpendicular to copper wires it should work. By AMA
im new to the channel how you get the water pressure so high !!??
This is just suuuuper cool maaaan
Definitely need batteries matched to the system's safe operating parameters.
You should try make a bigger and rounder container. I'm pretty sure all the water bouncing of those angles and getting thrown back into your wheel will be creating some serious drag, should notice an improvement if you manage to get the water away from it once the force has been used.
Edit: That's not meant as a criticism btw, just a helpful thought. Guys like you are an inspiration :)
Call me crazy, but wouldn't a round "box" decrease the resistance to flow?
Sorry if im late to the party on this video but I had a couple thought that might prove helpful. Unless its just the nozzle adjustment or there is something I don't understand by this type of wheel (which I think I understand pretty well) I think your box needs to be bigger. You are getting too much turbulence in the waste water. You can see it as the water is splashing back in the opposite direction of the spray coming from the nozzle. It shows up more clearly if you slow down the playback to 1/4 speed. It is especially prevalent in the corners opposite the nozzles but it is happening all over the box. You want it to be able to freely throw the waste water once the push has stopped on each spoon. Ideally you don't want any of the waste water hitting the the front side of any of the spoons. This will cause drag and will slow down the rotation thus decreasing the power. I would increase the box size at least 2 inches in all directions ( perhaps not from the top to the wheel depending on how much it throws vertically). This should cut down on the cavitation action quite a bit as the water will not be bouncing back on itself as much. OR better yet make it round. You will keep more of the circular momentum the waste water has and that should help to drive the wheel with less loss. If I'm not mistaken the original patent for this type of wheel used a circular housings but mounted vertically. I think your horizontal rotation is a better option at it should cut down on baring wear and distribute the force more evenly on the wheel. The only other thing I would think about changing is if you are working with someone to design you spoons/wheels have them put a slight angle to them so that as the water is falling due to gravity the force gets applied. I know it will be minuscule with the distance and the pressure you probably only need a degree or two but if your trying to perfect it and have control over such things it might be worth a look.
Hey Joe! Can you give the name of these hydraulic connectors? A very nice system that facilitates quick and easy connection ...
I think they are called sanitary fittings
or tri-clamp fittings
@@JoeMalovich Thank You!
Good job bro
Hey Joe, have you considered the increased drag from the back splash on the wheel? I wonder if you could deflect the water away from the wheel some way?
I think the real solution here is to go with a turgo design which handles water far better.
@@JoeMalovich Ooooo Nice. Love to see that video series.
Yea, what makes this channel so great is watching Joe learn and evolve his system!
I just asked the same question before reading your post. nice one ;)
0:09 An interesting way of packing, rest the metal wheel on the delicate plastic blades and then pack in foam on top!!
14:06 get rid of the chamber as it's a water brake and build a jig so you can tune the angle of the jets while running.
i thought so too lol
Still looks as if there may be undesirable effects from the water that bounces around after it contacts the spoons and before it exits the scene. Keith said it better, earlier. Great fun, though. People should not live where water freezes.
Yes there likely is. A Turgo handles water better, that's why I'm going with a Turgo in the next version.
Nice work and video. The velocity of water exiting nozzles remain the same. Using a larger diameter wheel should turn slower based on same water jet velocity. Very nice setup.
6 more and you'll produce the same power as my 8 panels
Really interesting video, thank you! Recently found out an ancestor of mine invented these!
This is amazing, I loved the turbine design, you can have spread "blades" and service the turbine once a week.
Are those "blades" made out of plastic?
Could be milled on aluminum maybe?
I really liked your video, keep updating :D
these plastic spoons last forever.
Yes they are made out of plastic
stainless stell is good
Love your setup, very ingenious, I think I would be inclined to have the alternator on top of the turbine though, rather than underneath.
dr1verman I’m not sure what you’re getting at. From what I could see, the alternator is on top of the turbine. You might want to watch the video again.
Where does the water come from?
Clouds
Vous êtes fort dans le domaine Monsieur ! Je me suis abonné à votre chaîne
I really have no idea what I'm talking about but it looks like there is a lot of water turbulence inside the box, wouldn't it be a bit more efficient if the inside of the turbine box had rounded corners or was a straight up circular shape?
Water reaching the sides of the box has already produced work by hitting the turbine first, so aside from splash from wall to wheel, the shape of the box should not be a big issue.
@@DanielCallejasSevilla What if, the box was the same shape as the stellarator coils... Id like to test that but alas, no stream on my backyard
I saw the same thing. I know in a racing motor they make the oil pan to keep splash off the crank. I think the same principal should apply here.
Likely, but probably not so easy to prototype in comparison to a simple box.
He could 3D print one after the bugs are worked out...he has a printer. Just has to consider the shape to deflect the water properly and if the plastic will handle the stress. 🤔
Bigger, round with baffles.
spencer is smart, very smart.
2:33 ELECTROBOOM Material
Hahah
Hi, thanks you for show us your work, can you update the links to see the products you used,... and can you put in the list the water staff ! Hug !
What is the RPM of the new wheel?
500 watts is not big ..
SWEET JOB GOOD CLEAN FUN!
Hey, where doit you get the pressure of water from?
jack jack I would also like to know is that just the home water system? If I think of it it’s not a silly idea to make something like this in line for water although i would imagine that would rob the water pressure.
I'm not sure of this... IT will probably rob too much pressure and make wait too much, and you will get 500 Watts every year... Or month if you like stay in the shower. Maybe for a swimming pool and not the one you have on a garden... He must have a river near his turbine
2:20 damn that is sexy.
Must build, must get going.
Heck I wish there was some nice stream next to me. Also, I like coming up with bunch of ideas yet I seldom see any real effort on actually getting them done. I guess it’s just a lot more easier to dream than do.
I like it it's a fantastic work of piece for free electric energy, i need some detail of generator that you use i mean model # ?
So many smart people in these comments
Mark my words this guy is going to keep building bigger and bigger intill he surpasses the hoover damn in size and electrical output. He may just keep going after that or he may finally be satisfied. Lol
Love the channel and this is the kind of stuff I wish would of been more readily available to me when I was a kid. Im 33 just to give you an idea of where my comment comes from.
Thank you for all of your hard work. I have no doubt that you are inspiring an untold number of kids.
GOOD JOB !!! BRAVO !!!
Regards - Paul P.