DIY Solar Project 2023, worth it in the UK?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- This is my Grid-Tie DIY Solar Project in the UK. Taking you through the whole process, explaining the 3 different Solar systems, what system I went for, the components, and the cost. How I installed the system, and finally, how to monitor the system and how much power this thing produces!
Octopus Energy referal Link (We both get £50 credit):
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What a brilliant video. Food for thought indeed and much cheaper UK hardware prices than I anticipated. Thanks very much!
Be nice to see a year down the line update, great easy video.👌
Great video, really interesting to see how much you can do for a DIY install. Would be really interesting to revisit your system after a couple of months to look at the pros and cons, what you would do differently/ next and what the ROI is looking like.
1600w panels, EcoFlow delta pro + 1 extra battery = 7KWh storage. Panels mounted in garden with adjustable angle for winter/summer optimisation. Running through independent mains system to household wiring. Currently runs fridge, freezers, microwave, washing & dryer machines. Ready for blackouts with lighting and tv ready to switch over.
Sounds interesting as I don't like trusting anything to do with the grid. Can you elaborate on the cost and what that independent mains circuit looks like?
how have you connected your eci flow to your energy board?
I had exactly same setup, costed me £5100/-. But delta pro failed in 4 months with burning smell. I was using 800w powerstream inverter. Now I installed Hybrid Lux inverter with 9.4kw Hanchu ESS for £5000/- including G98 and MCS.
Great install. A friend of mine recently installed his panels on his roof using a scaffold tower and a safety rope. Afterwards, he admitted he would never do it again due to risk of falling and pain to knees and wrists etc. Great project update and good detail on your decisions. I look forward to a 12-month review of your system and your views at that time, including would you do anything different. Cheers.
One of the clearest and most concise videos on solar that I've watched. Thank you!
Yours is a similar journey to the one I've been on - before things escalated. The SunSynk Hybrid inverter from City Plumbing is another route to go if you have adequate start up voltage. This future proofs the addition of a battery. I now have a spare Solax inverter which I need to get rid of. The Sunsynk is quite feature rich and the 3.6 version is pretty handy insofar as you can have 7kW of solar panels but is still G98 compliant in terms of grid connection. Looking at the legs on your frames on the flat roof, I'd probably be wanting to put some sort of spreader board under the legs to protect the roof. I'm now looking at adding a fogstar battery (and selling my SunSynk battery) which has been mentioned in another comment.
I was going to post a comment about the legs digging into the felt roof myself... bloody flat roofs leak first chance they get ! DAMHIKT... 🙄
😎👍☘🍻
side bar conversation but for the life of me I can't believe flat roofs were ever a thing - guess saving money but just long term pain!@@peterfitzpatrick7032
So am I right in thinking that with the Solax inverter you can't add batteries to it? The SunSyk 3.6kWh Hybrid is over twice the price... 😮
In summer you have light and sunshine in abundance. It doesn't matter if you don't get all the sun.
In spring and autumn you are happy to get as much sun as possible.
In winter it's hardly worth it and you wait for spring. So it is worth aiming for spring and autumn.
So set the angle to 38 to 42°
Good analysis.. 👏😎
depends on a few more things than season. we get perfectly usable daylight (not just raw, cloudless sunshine) throughout the year. the type of panels you're using makes an even bigger impact. the best choice for uk weather is half cut monocrystalline panels. i collect energy even on cloudy days. granted, not as much. but better than nothing. and my whole flat is off grid.
@@brymstonerVery interesting! Do you use solar energy for heating / hot water as well ?
@@sabinkamal I'd like to, but it would be very difficult for me to do that in my current apartment. But I may need to find a way soon; currently my heating cost is bundled in with rent, and the landlord will be separating it and making heating a pay as you go thing.
worth pointing out that 5kWh of LFP battery storage can be had for about half that price from amazon!
Excellent video, just what I was looking for. Got inspired by the solar setup on my campervan, and looks like you went for something that is quite similar. Plus I also have a flat roof that is barely used so great to see that, too - roof is too intense for me as well!
A really informative video on a tidy and sensible install thank you for sharing your project. I initially went for a off grid system with Pylontech batteries but got frustrated over the G99 approval as my inverter was bigger than 3.8 for the G98. I removed all the Pylontech stuff and Growatt inverter and paid a local company to install a Solax system with a 5.8 KW battery. They ‘ adopted ‘ my solar panel install and gave me the MCS certification. I didn’t bother with a meter for export as I also had a zappy charger installed for a future second hand electric car which will take any excess and since may whe. I had my system installed it’s been great getting upto 800kw of generation to date …. My target is 1500 kw for the year ! I’d love a video on HA as that is my next hurdle to jump Subbed thanks again.
Hi, I think once you get an electric car there won’t be any export! That’s the idea.
Take care M.
Why did you get rid of your pylontech battery, I'm trying to get one at a reasonable cost and a second hand one might of been just the job, can I ask what size (KWh) it was and what you sold it for?
@@tonydickerson999 it was as above due to G99 approval. I think it sold for 1100 iirc. it was a US5000. Was a bargain for the fella. got two racks fuse and cabling still if its of interest ...
@@yellownev I've been looking at the Seplos kits and in particular the 15KW kit which is on special offer for about £2500 inc VAT, building my own rack, but might be interested, have you got any photo's and a price in mind.
@@tonydickerson999honestly, dont bother, build your own. 14.4kw using eve cells from fogstar, use jk bms, £2200. All the bought batteries are a complete ripoff. They work with any inverter and you learn how it all works then, so youncan fix it yourelf if any problems arrise.
Good video, I've got 4.6kw of panels spread across two roofs main house and flat roof extension with a 4kw solax inverter AC coupled to a victron battery inverter with 9.6kwh of batteries. Other considerations : if your panels are more than 20cm above the main plane of the roof you will most likely need planning permission, it would be a really good idea to install a DC isolator before your inverter (in case anything goes wrong with the panels for disconnection purposes) and finally when you grid tie you need to apply for a G98 (16amps per phase) or G99 (for ESS or bigger systems above 50kw) EREC as you're feeding into the grid. The main consideration is that your installation is safe and isolates when the power is cut. Thanks for the video I especially liked the home assistant bits. Only just saw your replies to other posts about your G98 but I'd still recommend the DC isolator and have a look at your local planning permissions to make sure it's all good.
I agree, a DC Isolator is a Requirement. There are IP65 so easy to fit outside near the Inverter under the Eaves. DC Cables go from Panels to DC Isolator then from DC Isolator to Inverter
I agree reference planning. It doesn't fall under permitted development once you go above 0.2 metres higher than the flat roof which this clearly is.
I forgot to add that ideally you should fit a DC Surge Protector between the DC Isolator and the Inverter to protect the Inverter from Lightning strikes or other events where there is a current surge.
You don't actually need to apply for a grid connection agreement under G98 as it's 16A or less so it's connect and notify. If your system is generating more than 16A per phase then this will fall under G99 and a grid connection agreement will be required prior to energising the system. Similarly, a grid connection agreement is also required if the battery is to be used as a backup supply in a power cut irrespective of the inverter size. Some DNO's allow a fast track process if you are installing a PV inverter of 16A or less output and a separate battery inverter/charge controller of 16A or less output.
Very inspirational, I was pleasantly surprised how little it cost. I never thought of putting solar on my two ground floor extension roofs - no idea why, it seems obvious now. Looking at mine now, my main roof is hipped so I think the lower roofs may actually have more surface area.
I dont think you actually answered your question(!) is it "worth it in the UK"?! You look and sound pretty pleased, any idea what the pounds and pence looks like yet or is it too early?
You can buy Tuya MCB with energy metering to have your own monitoring system.
Great video - curious to know why you mounted the inverter on the outside of the house rather than in the loft?
Curious is one word for it 😂
Been looking for a good DIY video on this for a while now and done by someone who know's what they are talking about - Fantastic!
A quick one to point out - a correction on your side (but a good one at that) - you mentioned that 42.x degrees which was the best you could get (with your restrictions) BUT angle alpha isn't the angle the righthand side is referencing for optimal angle to sun. Rather, it is the angle beta (against the vertical) which in your case is 47.5 degrees. So, you are better off that you made out. 🙂 Probably better for UK positioning as we'd rather get better power generation from the longer, brighter 'warmer' months than the colder ones. Thanks for the very informative video!
What you’ll find is that you may hit the 2k limit on your inverter even though your panels are rated for about 1.6k. The rating on the panels is the same across all of them, so specific temperature and light. I found with my 4.86kWh system installed in January is at one point in April it the inverter hit 6k (only achievable as was sending power via DC to batteries as well as AC to the house/export) - this was because it was a bright clear day, sun was at its highest for the day which was right for the panel angle and the temperature wasn’t high … ideal conditions as was about 20% above the panel rating. As the weather got better the high production point dropped likely because of the temperature of the panels being high - currently in September after the quote poor July/August compared to May/June I’m seeing 4.2kWh at its peak on a clear day when the DC route is there to send excess (batteries still charging). During the good months I slowed down the battery charge rate to prevent clipping so that there was still charge going to the DC batteries at the peak production time during the day to maximise export which can add up to several kWh/day extra at 15p/kWh in the long daylight months.
This is what I love about the commwnts on vids like this... a valuable little nugget of info given for free.. 😶
... or do I owe you money ? 😧... 😂
😎👍☘🍻
Bimble Solar are the go to folk for all things solar. Cheap and good quality.
Excellent video, described in simple terms. I'm thinking of doing the same now
do it! and go for battery storage as well. it'll cost a little extra - batteries are the most expensive part of the build - but you'll be better for it in the long term, not beholden to energy companies.
15:52 Nice and solid but a little brush of epoxy resin would help protect the softwood from the rain. It’s a cheap alternative way instead of the treated timber.
Solar Panels,can stay efficient for up to 25 years according to AI.
Update. A 3.7kwh battery is the most efficient system for value for money
The problem with DIY solar systems in the UK is that according to the information I have seen the person installing the panels needs to be certified for the job. Householders are not allowed to work on the fuse box themselves (as you would need to in order to install a solar system or fit a new circuit) without being certified electricians.
He’s running T&E outside and mounted an inverter on the roof! That’s why you need an electrician.
Excellent video - well presented project. I think I will definitely go for the battery option as it is criminal what the power companies pay for our exported power. Thank you!
What payback period would you expect for a battery set up?
@@geoffaries I have no idea but as I do not intent to sell the house and hope to have, let's say 15 years, left of life I would think I would be ahead.
This is a most excellent video.
I was thinking of a crude off-grid system plugged directly into my immersion tank to make "free" hot water during the summer. I would like to buy prefabricated wooden frames and mount them on a s.facing wall because I don't like heights either. I will be referring back to this video for ideas.
Thanks for doing this.
if you really want crude, light a fire under a metal tank of water. generating heat from electricity is very energy hungry. running a kettle or microwave, for example, will cost you between 1-3kW of energy. and that number is a constant for as long as the thing is in use. so if you don't have much battery storage, or you're choosing to heat the water during the day from a grid tied system, that'll respectively chew through your storage / cost more money from the grid. ultimately though, the best option for hot water is geothermal.
Theres a few gadgets to dump excess electric into hot water tank.
Thanks Pro Regards from Holland
great content i realy like thats its short but full of good info. very happy
Very informative and food for thought.
What precautions have you in place to not backfeed the grid on a sunny day during a power cut, potentially putting someone's life at risk, and as I found out you have to have the correct smart meter from your utility company that is bidirectional otherwise it will assume that any excess you feed back into the grid is you actually drawing from the grid, and in my case it doubled our electric bill which we never got refunded for as it was impossible for the utility company to tell what was going in and what was going out, I also believe that you have to inform the utility company that you are feeding into the grid and have to have licences/certificates to do this.
Good video. Thx Kev👍🇬🇧
Good work Kev ! Realy detailed vid.
Brilliant video, thank you so much. Really enthused me to give it a go.
Superb content and presentation; very informative.
The ~45° where the frame hits the roof, you may want to put some extra asphalt shingles under them to protect your roof. Just a thought. The wind may cause some wear there.
Ive got an ecoflow delta pro. All ive done is a length of cable, 3 pin plug on each end, one plug in the back of the delta and the other in a house socket. Ive got 1000w solar panels and when the weather is good it powers all the house.
Have a similar system but dump excess power into my hot water tank immersion heater using a Solic200 box. This automatically detects if I'm exporting excess power and diverts it to the immersion heater. Works a treat!
Apart from you can almost always sell it for more than the cost to heat it with Gas, 15p export is currently standard but if you have a battery Octopus Flux will make £££, Even without a battery if you can not use in the peak hrs you will still make money. Octopus also recently dropped the MSC cert requirement.
I've got a system like that but worked out the money I could have made exporting the energy would equal the cost of the gas to heat the water. The only difference is I don't have to use the boiler at all during warmer months so that's less wear and tear. Overall I'm not sure it's worth the upfront cost for such a unit, especially since it only works during the day and often not when you need not water either late at night or early morning.
I have a similar setup. Works well. DIY cost of components just under £2000. Been in use from 2020.
got a 2024 update?? how much did this end up saving you?? what is the price difference between the now and before.
I must admit, I missed the part where you told us if it was worth it, i.e. what you saved in a full year vs. what you explained you had spent. Could you recap how much power your "1600w" array of panels actually delivered in the UK climate ? thanks
At the price paid I can see the return being worth it. As a DIY Install however I am surprised if you will get any money back from the Grid as it will not be MCS approved. Octopus did announce recently they will accept PV Installations that are not MCS Approved but you need to prove the Installation has been installed competently and not sure if that means you need to be an Electrician
he hasn't got a full year of data yet based on his home assistant files....I assume we will see an update at some point next year..
Kev this is a great video. V helpful
Great video,, I think I’m going to do similar,, hopefully it will take the sting out of the electric bill, I will start small and possibly go bigger if I like it,
Great video very much enjoyed it
How did you go about MCS certification, etc? I’m thinking of a DIY installation for an outbuilding initially (off grid), but would like to eventually tie it into the house as well.
I dont think hes getting paid for dumping power into the grid,
However Octopus energy have just announced they are dropping the need for MCS accreditation they are happy to take and pay you for power if you have some to spare.
Please note, this doesnt absolve you of current wiring regulations and have a competent and safe installation.
Cool time lapse showing the clouds going by with power graph 📈... Are you getting a battery?
Nice one. Other than the electrician wiring it up, did the power company just let you start back-feeding their grid without any hassle? Stateside one has to jump through all sorts of hoops before they'll let you connect. In my case they charge you an extra fixed cost (a solar tariff they call it) for the privilege of giving them power. Takes the mick.
As long as the inverter is compliant it's fine, if the network mains fails the system shuts off so you can't run it without grid tie meaning it's safe.
You certainly need to make sure your meter can cope with a reverse energy flow, and there's a power limit above which you need to get approval.
City plumbing does not allow solar items in their 15% off for first orders, it is clearly stated in their terms and conditions so if you got the discount well done...but it was a mistake.
Besides that great instructional video. Thanks
fogstar are selling a seplos rack style battery around 15.2 kw of storage, complete diy kit for £1,999 grade b batteries or grade a batteries for roughly £400 extra, buildable in 2 hours, so no batteries are not expensive, consider also octopus flux export up to 30 odd pence per kwh export, soon pay for your system :)
Indeed, the DIY kits from Seplos are a very good deal, I mention this at 5:53 in the video.
This is a great, and informative video. Thanks for the clear information.
But. I have one question for you:
Surely you sell your excess electricity to the grid?
I thought they paid you for your power??
If not, why not?
You called it wasted energy, but if it was sold, it would be far from wasted?
Vey helpful - thank you.
What about an off grid system but with an AC input to charge the batterys in winter.
Great video :) One quick question: When you are exporting power back to the grid, does your meter then run backwards ? i.e. will that further reduce your bill or are those watts given back for free ? Thanks
The new digital ones don't run backwards but if you have an old disc meter then yes it will run backwards
When I had my pv system installed in 2011 then the electricity supplier had to change my disc meter to a digital one. However they took a few months to do this so in that time my meter went backwards
We came to an agreement on the actual power that I had imported
Apparently you shouldn't install a DC isolator. I think Efixx have done a video on that.
Nice video, subscribed! Do you have any info/tips about submitting paperwork to the DNO ?
Whats the bureaucratic process for tying these to the grid like? Id always assumed DIY solar in the UK would be very difficult to get tied to the grid.
Two questions 1. Did you have to notify Building Control and the DNO. 2. What is your payvack period expected to be?
No pay back. He’s not allowed to export because it’s not installed.
@TimmyBoja timmy, I know that, but my questions remain. My reason for asking is that I'm thinking of a DIY installation. Avoiding the installation fees and markup on equipment may just about make it viable for me.
Great video
Nice job mate
They always say diy, and then get someone in to do some of the work. Hope you put something under the timbers to prevent them puncturing holes in your felt roof.
Beat me to it )
Some sole plates for the 2x2s
Usually some tooth sucker.
good review.
I couldnt use this set up at my house as even though I have a smets2 smart meter, it has no idea if i use or generate electric.
so I would actually get charged for exporting to the grid as the meter will 'think' i am using power.
Godd viideo - nice and simple . Did you have any issues with the electritian, what did he charge you to rig it up please?
What notification to dno is required?
The GivEnergy and Tesla Powerwall systems are also predominantly grid tied but can work as off grid systems in the event of a power cut.
If you don't mind me asking how much to sign off system with your electrian?
If I have decided on a grid tie-in but not interested in exporting surplus once my batteries are full, but using it to heat water in a thermal store, would I need to have a smart meter fitted by my provider?
I followed up by asking, “Can you tell me the amount of solar panels needed if I placed all 9 panels on an average pitched roof facing about 100 degrees, based on North being 0 degrees?”
It replied, “To determine the optimal number of solar panels you would need based on your specific roof orientation and electricity consumption (3,500 kWh per year), we should consider a few important factors, including the efficiency of your solar panels, the pitch of your roof, and the overall solar potential of your specific location.
### Factors to Consider:
1. **Orientation and Angle**:
- In the UK, south-facing (180 degrees) is typically the ideal orientation for solar panels, as it receives the most sunlight throughout the day. However, an orientation of 100 degrees (which is slightly east of southeast) can still be effective, though it may lead to slightly lower energy production compared to a south-facing installation.
2. **Estimated Solar Production**:
- Solar panels produce less energy when not facing directly south. The output can be estimated using the orientation correction factor. A rough estimate suggests that an east-facing orientation might reduce solar panel efficiency by about 10-15% compared to a south-facing orientation.
### Calculation:
1. **Daily Electricity Use**:
As calculated earlier, your daily usage is approximately **9.59 kWh/day**.
2. **Adjusted Daily Output for Orientation**:
If we assume a 10% reduction in panel output due to the 100-degree orientation:
- The output of a **410W** panel in optimal conditions (previously calculated as approximately **1.146 kWh/day**) would be reduced:
\[
\text{Adjusted daily output} = 1.146 \text{ kWh} \times (1 - 0.10) \approx 1.031 \text{ kWh/day}
\]
3. **Number of Panels Needed**:
You can now calculate the number of panels needed to cover your daily electricity use:
\[
\text{Number of panels} = \frac{9.59 \text{ kWh/day}}{1.031 \text{ kWh/panel}} \approx 9.3
\]
Since you generally cannot install a fraction of a panel, you would need to round up to **10 panels** to be self-sufficient in your energy usage.
### Conclusion:
In summary, based on a roof orientation of 100 degrees and a slight decrease in efficiency, you would need **10 solar panels rated at 410W** to cover an electricity usage of 3,500 kWh per year. This ensures you account for the reduced output due to the orientation while still achieving self-sufficiency. As always, it’s wise to consult with a solar professional who can assess site-specific conditions and provide a tailored solution.”
So I just needed 1 extra❤
Did you do a G98 or G99 application for your setup yourself or get a sparky to assist with this? I'm trying to keep my cost down and find someone to assist me with my own project but I haven't gotten anywhere and could really do with some advise, thanks.
please Net that install off, you will be amazed how many pigeons you get if you leave it like that. we have a gap about 3 inches off our rooftop and our roof became a house for loads of pigeons until we blocked off access with a mesh...
So does the electric company compensate you in anyway for any unused electricity that goes back into the grid
Looks good, well done for doing it. The rear legs that are beside the wall, are they fixed to the wall at the bottom?
Hi Kev Do you get feed in tariff at all. very good filming & informative.
I heard that you can sell excess power back to grid, is that possible? How so if it is?
Where can I buy this 500W kettle? 😂
How much did your electrician charge to connect you system to the consumer board etc. ?
Hi ..Greta vid again.. question how did you get your DNO cert, if you got one and i asume this is not MCS Certed?? cheers Dave
The Solax inverter does not look to be an outdoor inverter, even the datasheet does not say that. Are you sure you can use it outside?
solax do state a 300mm air gap above inverter im afraid, and the dc isolater isnt much help to isolate the string from the inverter
speaking as a guy that fits and repairs solax inverters ,you need to isolate the dc lines if and often WHEN the mc4 plug into inverter melts
solax also state not to mount in direct sunlight ,i really would advise remounting in the attic , also note solax state non combustable materials above the inverter
to be honest i didnt watch your video to criticise i am generally intrested to see people diy and save a few quid
but there does seem some good advice offered to you here and it seems to be falling on deaf ears
we only fit the inverters inside
we make sure they have extra ventilation around the units
we fit a dc isolater on every string at the inverter
we fit an ac isolater at inverter AND at the board
and heres my top tip ...........tighten your termination screws again after a day as the copper tends to squash a little, and yes i speak from wisdom after going out to many repairs due to loose screws in isolaters and badly made off mc4 plugs
this is just sensible and logical advice
Thank you for the advice, and point taken on the DC isolator, which I am planning on fitting (at dusk). On the location of the inverter install, the manual states "X1 Series inverter is designed for outdoor installation (IP 66)", and the pictures used as the example install location is exactyl where I have fitted it, about 300mm under the eaves. Also the eves provide shadow from direct sunlight. I was originally going to install in the loft, but it gets crazy hot up there in the height of summer, plus the manual states this inverter is designed for outdoor instalation.
can you get a smart socket to turn on when detects excess solar energy for e.g a electric oil fancy radiator or elec underfloor heating ect .thanks Neil
How much did it cost to have it connected to the grid ?
Hi Kev, Great informative video, I have been on the City plumbing website and the 15% discount does not apply to certain items including Solar PV, How did you manage to get the discount? Thanks.
I re-watched to find where you say what you get for each KW you put into the grid but can't find it, could you say what that is. Thanks
No DC isolator ?
Do your electrician give you an MCS certificate?
Debating whether to bother with MCS certification or just invest in more battery’s (10KWH currently)
19:40: "Looking at the 26/7 ....we generated 7.7 kilowatts per hour". No. That display shows energy generated in KwH, which is not "kilowatt per hour" but "kilowatt hours". Kilowatt hours is a measure of energy, while kilowatts and watts are measures of power. The term "kilowatts per hour" only makes sense if one is talking about a rate of change in power (a derivative of power with respect to time), which would not be a measure of energy.
Pros and cons to serial vs parallel is really simple. With series should any one panel or connection fail you get no power at all from any of it. With parallel you only lose that one panel.
In your costings you missed out how much the sparky cost to connecting in?
What was the cost of the electrician?
Great video. Have you calculate the ROI based on your usage?
I would guess his payback is 2-3 years, if he has set up export payments, if not closer to 5 years depending on how much he can self use.
I think my electric costs are approximately £3 a day, is it worth going to all this work and expense to save such a tiny amount of money?
Do you get paid for your exported power and if so how did you go about getting the approval?
3:40 confused how you get Ac into a DC battery, why not put Dc in?
Did you do the DNO notification yourself?
Not convinced about this. I'm not familiar with the exact equipment used. However, it looks like you have wired directly into the consumer unit bus bar. In the case of a power cut, or scheduled maintenance, you are still feeding into the grid. What happens if you electrocute the person who is working on the line?
Additionally if you get your earth over the power line, and it goes down, your earth is potentially open circuit. In order for your rcd's to work properly (to protect you from electrocution) you need a good earth.
As your panel's are on a wooden frame, you might like to consider earth straps on the metal frames.
The inverter will detect a loss of grid power and shut itself off when that happens. They can provide a separate connection (called EPS) that doesn't do that, normally battery backed, so you can run some circuits off that even during a power-cut. That must not be connected to the grid for the reasons you stated.
You missed out on 20% VAT saving when you get battery and solar together so adding a battery later is 20% more expensive. Also with Octopus Flux an oversized battery will pay for itself as you can make a profit each day tax free. I have a 10kwh battery on order to add to my 4kw solar. A friend of mine with a similar setup made £250 on Flux in June.. so spending the extra makes sense.
I think you'll only get the 20% VAT saving if using a VAT registered installer and supplier - i.e. not when buying directly as a private individual regardless of buying battery and panels together. I think the saving is moot as there are other savings/discounts to be had if buying shrewdly (for DIY purposes).
Ahh that’s disappointing if that’s the case you should be able to get the discount as an individual, too much temptation for the installer to pocket that 20% saving as a bonus.
I’ve seen narrow boats use a raft of car batteries to store power to use later in heating water, washing machines etc.
Is that not feasible here? Presumably a slightly tired car battery would still do?
You need deep cycle batteries.
Narrow boats use deep cycle leisure batteries.
Lithium batteries offer more useable storage for a given footprint, and are more suitable for solar usage.
I can never understand the payoff if it’s an average 34 pence per kilowatt ,and you generate 7.5 kw max during day or store in a battery for night use . It’s a looooong time before it pays off . At 7.5 * 34 pence per day saving maximum ?
Which equates to £77.99 a month, or £935 a year
@@bermudavipertv No, £26 a month, £210 a year but thats only selling at 15p, if he can use 600kwh and sell 700kwh thats around £280 a year, so 4-5 year payback.
may cause flat roof leaks in the long run
Seems city plumbing have spotted you video and removed all solar products from the 15% off discount. :-(
how did you get the MCS certificate for a private install to get payment for exported power??
He didn't, so not getting paid.
Very nice video but you did not give the ROI figures based on cost reductions from the grid plus sell back to the grid. More importantly, you did not discuss permitted development/ planning permission issues and the related costs of those. You need planning permission for panels on a flat roof plus, possibly, building regs or MCS certification could apply. OTOH it is permitted development for a pitched roof but there is a still a cost to show this is a legal development (especially for selling the house and possibly building insurance) . If I am wrong about any this, then still this need to be discussed and was not. This could be expensively misleading to others watching this.
Do you have to notify uk power networks that your connecting this to the grid ? and I guess the only con is you won’t get any payments for export ?
Octopus have dropped the MSC cert so he can now sell it at 15p or far more on Flux tariff.
That's odd as on the Octopus website under FAQ it states You'll need to have:
A smart meter providing us with half-hourly readings
A solar system and home battery
A copy of the MCS document for your solar system
Confirmation your local energy network was notified of your installation *
* This will be a letter or email you got from your energy network, after they were notified by your solar installer. @@That1ufo
Was it worth it?
Does your power supplier install a bi-directional meter?
They will insist on it, if you export power to the grid. They don't want your meter going backwards at 31p kWh!
Is the inverter waterproof then?
Yes, this inverter is intended to be installed on an outside wall, under the eves, and is IP65 (Water resistant. Protected against water jets from any angle).