Looking forward to part 2. I came across the same situation working on my S10. Replacing upper and lower control arm bushings in my driveway. What was supposed to be a 2 hour job, ended up as a 2 day nightmare. No matter how much I learn from these vids... Without a big nasty and the rest of a shop's gadgets... I feel incapable of doing most jobs.
I just bought a 2012 Ford Fusion. Possibly need new ball joints and it has a shimy in the front end under load. I live 3 hours away from South Main, and most likely will take the trip to have him do the work along with a service/ assessment for preventative maintenance. They are hands down the most trustworthy shop I have ever seen. Anyone in the Northeast would be wise to have their vehicle's worked on by them.
Based on the amount of comments complaining about this design, they must not work on many modern vehicles everyday. This is very common now-a-days to have to remove major sub-assemblies to access bolts for replacement of parts that commonly wear out. Sadly the vehicle manufacturers are all about getting the assembly time down to the fastest at the factory, while trading that off for longer labor times once the vehicle has left the factory. I have a couple friends that work as engineers at various vehicle manufacturers - they are constantly pushed by the accountants to make assembly quicker at the factories, since that is where the manufacturer's spend the greatest amount on labor -- as long as the vehicle makes it out of factory warranty coverage then the accountants could honestly care less what the repair costs are for the customer. Strongly recommend people read a book by Bob Lutz (retired Vice Chairman of General Motors) called "Car Guys VS Bean Counters" to better understand how little control the engineers really have in the building of vehicles these days.
That's true modern engineering. I may complain, but who doesn't out of frustration? I will never buy a new car. I love the older pre 90s vehicles, to the 50s, 40s, 20s, but to keep up with flow of traffic or DD, I stick to late 70s to early 90s.
Being that type of engineer I can tell you that is 100% true. Engineers want to make things easier for people to work on stuff because I myself may be in that predicament. Sadly all anyone companies care about anymore is the bottom line
It's a big part of the reason the U.S. has become so uncompetitive. Shareholders, and therefore, the bean counters insist on bigger dividends at the cost of innovation and quality. It all comes down to the ultra rich and their greed.
It's still true Ford, FCA, and GM are less interested in repairability compared to say Honda and Acura. The Euro fans out there are unlikely to admit the sad truth is modern European cars are a train wreck of poor engineering that makes this Ford look positively simple to repair. A taillight related failure can leave your fancy new Mercedes stranded and needing to be towed and a headlight assembly in a BMW can throw 20+ codes and cost over $1k to repair. So it's all relative.
Loosen the sub frame again pry the front corner of it down (while supporting the trans with a jack and board) and you will get the clearance. I did a 07 last year (or helped do one). Looks the same.
I’m a service manager and sales and finance manager for an auto repair shop and car sales lot in Minnesota. With that being said I truly know what the Rust Belt is. I enjoy your content keep it up great job Erik!
Yaassssssssss for that 19.5 socket. Bro literally you are the first person whom I have seen own one of these. I used to use my 19.5 21.5 22.5 when I worked for a dodge dealer. They are amazing!
Not kidding at all I had 2008 fusion with the same problems today. Had two bad tie rod ends and both front tires had belts broke. Great content as always!
Proof that even a beast like Eric has moments of “wtf do I do now?” This will make me feel better when i stumble across some similar crap at work tomorrow lol. Now onto part two where he’ll make it look easy.
another tire thing. I had an 88 nova(like a corolla). when I would drive faster it would pull harder to one side. The mechanic said tire problem. Swapped front and rear and pull went away. he said if its alignment the pull will not change much but if the tire has a bad belt, etc. it will pull harder at higher speed. worked for me.
When I see tire wear like that AND the customer had NO CLUE...I worry that all the technology that warns us of problems is also making us into drivers that won't be able to think behind the wheel. Auto braking ,lane departure warnings etc etc, as they keep"smartening up" the cars, they" dumb down" the drivers SCARY!
@@SouthMainAuto I agree 100%. We now have a crop of drivers coming up that don't even know how to do many simple things because the cars keep saving their asses...until one day they don't, that is...
Thank you, sir, for this video. There are a couple other videos on the front control arms for this car, but they only showed the right side being done, which of course is the side that doesn't involve the bolt being blocked by the transmission pan. I was able to use my floor jack and two blocks of wood to raise the pan, like you did in this video. Granted, I was very nervous because a good bit of pressure had to be applied to the pan to get it high enough to get the bolt out, plus I have the Mazda 6 which I thought might be enough different to cause a problem lifting on the pan. I was afraid it might crush the pan, so I kept lifting a little bit at a time until I got it out.
I remember these fusions when they were brand new at the dealer...and doing the basic checks during the brake job, alignment, recall, thermostat, whatever...I always said damn these ball joints are gonna be a PITA. Turned out they don't look too bad
I do suspension work on a daily. I've actually had people bring me those Fusions who've had their so called "mechanics" put those in without the sleeves. Then they bring it to my shop complaining about a noise over bumps...😂😂
Good, Good stuff Eric, no kidding. I feel a little guilty, I’m at work and I can’t stop watching this vid. We’ll gots to get back to work, I’ll look at part 2 on break!
Man I just was doing a set of these on a friends car and ran into the same issues with the tapper/straight. Was able to torch and hit off the bushing off in my vice was a pain forsure nice video man glad I wasn’t the only person confused
Those lowers definitely can be a pain. I had to heat the knuckle with a torch to get each one out even with a big air hammer. Finally them to come out. But good grief what engineer thought up that design? How does that just come out the air into someone's head lol. Anyways I appreciate you doing videos, it definitely helps on things I sometimes forget about if I haven't seen certain vehicles in a while. So much difference In vehicles and so many different issues it's hard to keep it all in mind. Thanks again. God bless you
This job beat me up when I did it on my Mazda 6. Fantastic bit of engineering on Ford's part. The bushings on those dual lower ball joints came out exactly the same and had to be pulled off with a puller. Wish I'd had a big nasty for it for sure.
I had a vehicle years ago with all four tires showing steel all the way around, so much steel they'd twinkle in the sunlight. Can't beat a good Michelin. Thanks for the video. Naturally I comment before the end of the video. Gotta say that's one screwy design to say the least, the trans. pan being in the way. Good luck man.
Great video! I was looking at a friends Mazda 6 and the suspension and the engine are almost the same as on my '11 Fusion! Other than the obvious Ford snafus, the car rides very nice and is nothing but extremely reliable. Just a little PITA for us DIYers. When I did the control arms on my Fusion, I lifted the transmission and was able to get the bolt out. My trans mount was sagging quite a bit. Maybe when they are new, the bolt can come out more easily.
It made it past the factory warranty - that is all the vehicle manufacturer's accountants are worried about. It also goes to show how effective the vehicle manufacturer's marketing people have been into getting people to believe vehicles are disposable & if it ever needs repairing you should just go buy a new vehicle.
Eric: I would recommend a change of penetrating oil. I would begin using a product called Freeze-Loc or Freeze-Off. It's available at local parts store, and it's basically liquid nitrogen in a can. Awesome for breaking apart rusted parts, because it breaks rust and corrosion at the molecular level. I started using Freeze-Loc in 2011 while rebuilding the engine in my Ranger. And I used it to take off the harmonic balancer without air tools.
Do I need to disconnect the steering shaft at the foot well and secure the wheel when lowering the subframe for the rearward control arm? A TRQ video shows them do disconnecting the steering and exhaust but would love to avoid it if I can. Loooooove these SMA videos, entertaining humor and super educational. I couldn't find a big nasty but got a chief air hammer from harbor freight and it drove my ball joints for the most satisfaction I've ever felt in my life.
David Browning Yes, that bolt was the very first part set onto the assembly line. The entire car was built around that bolt. On other makes and models it's typically the heater core that is the first part on the assembly line. Lololol
@@jamesberryman751 Exactly! On a side note, I had a Northstar Cadillac many years ago. Luckily I got rid of that car before the head gaskets shit the bed. Lolol.
I had no idea what the Chrome capped nuts were all about. Couldn't believe it when I found out this was actually done. Replaced all nuts with mcgard solid Chrome lug nuts. Couldn't stand that removing the wheel was the hardest part of most jobs. No more. Did the same on sister's car.
Gentle like a lamb... *then wails on it with impact* - Philosophies to live by from Eric O. 2018. 😂 Those bastards... Damn. If it was me i'd probably zip the front engine/gearbox mount off and raise the gear box a few inches with a jack to make room for that bolt. But not after i went outside and smashed a few things...
Hey, appreciate the video really gave me a good place to start from with having to drop the sub frame. A question o have is the Haynes says to disconnect the steering and lock the steering wheel in place, I assume you didn't do that, did you have any issues on the backend with the way you dropped the sub frame?
Makes me thankful I live in AZ where my car never rusts or becomes corroded. But even then I had to beat the shit out of the end of the cv axle when I was removing it.
19:14 taking that sleeve off, use the ball joint splitter to put some pressure on it then give it a lil hit with an air hammer and it should pop off easy. also tapping with a hammer can work if thats all you have
Thank you so much for this video! My car has a case of the weeble wobble at about 10mph and I checked the rim rotation with a micro meter which was in spec, no play in the arm or knuckles and it had me baffled. Just like you say, it goes away above 40mph and I've been driving it for about a year that way now. It does indeed feel like a tire compressing on a single spot, I just don't know which one. At something like 60mph there is a slight returning low frequency hum which is a telltale signal that a wheel is off. So, yeah, I'll check in for a alignment and see if one of the relatively new (2 year old) tires is at fault here.
I usually get the high speed shimmy that starts around 50, stops between 65 and 70, then starts again above 70. Out of balance tires sometimes have a sweet spot.
Were there some bolts behind those plastic splash guards that you had to release in order to get the sub frame loose? In the video you just had a couple vertical bolts that you released and then went straight to those splash guards.
Yow! Very suspenseful cliff hanger...waiting with worms on my tongue (baited breath)... will Ford catch a quick shot to the jaw, or was 3 minutes enough for Eric to find a craftier way to win? We'll see...
Every time I break out the extra long breaker bar or ratchets I know it could go bad fast & hope a few hundred thousand bolt removals will keep me out of trouble. If engineers had to work on what they design they'd find out their design has a few flaws.
South Main Auto Repair well I hope it gets recorded. Love seeing how work is supposed to be done. If I can convince my wife to come to New York I’ll be sure to come get a service done!
The front suspension on that vintage Fusion is from a Mazda 6. I have done a couple of lower arm/ball joints on Fusion/Milan and the bushing ALWAYS pulled out.
On my '96 Mystique the labor time for the right control arm is 1 hour. Left control arm...4 HOURS! Why? Yup, transmission is in the way!!! Some things just don't change lol
Its almost like Ford has become a nightmarish abomination of US and Euro trash. Its understandable in a way because Ford is balls deep in the Euro market in a way GM and Chrysler never were.
my mercedes is more complicated yet 10x easier to disassemble, its a similar design with that control arm bolt but the germans made an access hole so you dont have to remove the subframe.
I was working my girlfriend's rusty Mazda 6 this weekend and cursing Ford the whole time. My favorite part of this wretched platform is having to run an extension through the rear trailing arm to access the rear caliper bolt.
7:52 back in the early days of me turning wrenches i did the classic reach around on a Ford exhaust pipe. Sent me to the emergency room to get 4 stitches. Sometimes you have to learn the hard way i guess.
hey eric use your noodle take your pipe stand place it on something solid on the motor and let the car down motor mounts will move enough to let bolt out
Genital...like a lamb. Proceeds to hammer the crap out of it with the impact lol. Rough go on that side. Ford tough.:) can't wait to see part 2. Good luck & as a general rule feel free to kick any automotive engineer you meet straight in the taint (they won't even ask why...they know).
stgreen78 The engineers can only do what the accountants allow them to do. The accountants are the ones that control what gets designed & eventually made - it all comes down to the assembly time at the vehicle manufacturer's assembly plant. The accountants major concern is using the least amount of labor to assemble the vehicle as quickly as possible AND that the vehicle remains working until just out of factory warranty coverage - what the repair costs are once the vehicle is out of warranty is of no concern to the accountants. Once the shareholders (aka Stock Market) decide they are more concerned with the repair costs after factory warranty is over, then the accountants will change their tune - but I am not holding my breathe for that to ever happen.
KCautodoctor that does make sense...just a shame it can't be both ways. Quick assembly & easy to work on. I've mostly worked on Japanese cars & they all seem to have at least one special "love letter" from the factory that either requires a trick/special tool/grinder:) to work on. (Thinking of rx300/rav 4 recessed air intake plenum support bolt so close to the firewall you can barely get a finger in there...angry just thinking of it lol...FYI pass-through low profile 1/4" drive socket to loosen, then pull it with 2 index fingers barely able to touch it, then find it somewhere underneath or behind the engine or against the exhaust after it drops ...if you ever run across such a beast :)
Joe Johnson then you obviously have not recently worked for any vehicle manufacturer or know anyone currently involved in the design & manufacturing of vehicles. I strongly recommend you read a book by Bob Lutz (retired Vice Chairman of General Motors) called "Car Guys VS Bean Counters" to better understand how little control the engineers really have in the design & manufacturer of vehicles these days.
Joe Johnson your comment proves you in fact have no knowledge of what is happening right now in the automotive manufacturing industry. Today's vehicle manufacturers are run by accountants - not engineers. Bernie Golick is from way back in the day when things were done very differently.
Eric, Great video! Do you think the bad tie rod caused that tire wear or perhaps vice versa? Or do you think the two issues are just coincidental? Thanks and God bless Paul
ford engineering got to love it meant to be easy to put it together not to work on, they sell them cheap and suck the money from you when it time to work on them.
Man watching your video, I feel your pain Mr.O!! I’m currently doing an 05 Cadillac Deville. Getting that idler pulley out is a pain in the butt!! Makes me want to punch an engineer in the face.
I notice Astro seems to have disappeared except for Big Nasty and the light. Is the half inch Astro still working? Were you bugged because the little one died, or have you gone over to the battery power dark side, ha ha?
Oh man I seem to have cut the cord for the time being. Mostly because I just wanna see how goods this HF stuff is. Astro has all ready stood the test of time IMO! Not to mention they still work great to this day!
I've pretty much done the same thing Eric O. Got tired of screwing with those dang air hoses and only bring them out when needed. Granted air has the power still, but for most fasteners cordless are more than enough for the job at hand, and it saves my ears.
In my lifetime the only power tools that have lasted longer than a decade are air tools and corded tools. That's not such an issue for a pro since he gets his money out of the tool before the battery fails, but the amateur wants a longer horizon. When the battery does fail, you often can't find a new battery to fit.
Eric something up with your shop air? seems like alot of cordless powered tools lately. ive actually started using alot more cordless stuff to keep down on the noise...
Looking forward to part 2. I came across the same situation working on my S10. Replacing upper and lower control arm bushings in my driveway. What was supposed to be a 2 hour job, ended up as a 2 day nightmare. No matter how much I learn from these vids... Without a big nasty and the rest of a shop's gadgets... I feel incapable of doing most jobs.
Welcome to the rust belt buddy. Up here it’s easier to replace the entire suspension then just the bushings
Built Ford tough...tough to work on
Built like a moron*
Watching big nasty at work is so satisfying
Man watching you use the earthquake makes me want to buy it tomorrow. That thing is a beast.
try the milwaukee 2676 its 1400 LBS torque best so far on market
My favorite kind of video all wrenching and some big Nasty.
Why you little.... now I cannot sleep. To be continued!!!
Very entertaining and informative. Thanks.
I just bought a 2012 Ford Fusion. Possibly need new ball joints and it has a shimy in the front end under load. I live 3 hours away from South Main, and most likely will take the trip to have him do the work along with a service/ assessment for preventative maintenance. They are hands down the most trustworthy shop I have ever seen. Anyone in the Northeast would be wise to have their vehicle's worked on by them.
Based on the amount of comments complaining about this design, they must not work on many modern vehicles everyday. This is very common now-a-days to have to remove major sub-assemblies to access bolts for replacement of parts that commonly wear out. Sadly the vehicle manufacturers are all about getting the assembly time down to the fastest at the factory, while trading that off for longer labor times once the vehicle has left the factory. I have a couple friends that work as engineers at various vehicle manufacturers - they are constantly pushed by the accountants to make assembly quicker at the factories, since that is where the manufacturer's spend the greatest amount on labor -- as long as the vehicle makes it out of factory warranty coverage then the accountants could honestly care less what the repair costs are for the customer. Strongly recommend people read a book by Bob Lutz (retired Vice Chairman of General Motors) called "Car Guys VS Bean Counters" to better understand how little control the engineers really have in the building of vehicles these days.
So very true...........
That's true modern engineering. I may complain, but who doesn't out of frustration? I will never buy a new car. I love the older pre 90s vehicles, to the 50s, 40s, 20s, but to keep up with flow of traffic or DD, I stick to late 70s to early 90s.
Being that type of engineer I can tell you that is 100% true. Engineers want to make things easier for people to work on stuff because I myself may be in that predicament. Sadly all anyone companies care about anymore is the bottom line
It's a big part of the reason the U.S. has become so uncompetitive. Shareholders, and therefore, the bean counters insist on bigger dividends at the cost of innovation and quality. It all comes down to the ultra rich and their greed.
It's still true Ford, FCA, and GM are less interested in repairability compared to say Honda and Acura. The Euro fans out there are unlikely to admit the sad truth is modern European cars are a train wreck of poor engineering that makes this Ford look positively simple to repair. A taillight related failure can leave your fancy new Mercedes stranded and needing to be towed and a headlight assembly in a BMW can throw 20+ codes and cost over $1k to repair. So it's all relative.
Loosen the sub frame again pry the front corner of it down (while supporting the trans with a jack and board) and you will get the clearance. I did a 07 last year (or helped do one). Looks the same.
Dang it Eric, Well I wont sleep tonight wondering how it ended now.... Thanks. haha, ( patiently awaiting part 2 )
I’m a service manager and sales and finance manager for an auto repair shop and car sales lot in Minnesota. With that being said I truly know what the Rust Belt is. I enjoy your content keep it up great job Erik!
I work third shift, Mr. O. Lovin' these late evening uploads!
I lost it at 26:05! Wife was wondering why I laughed so loud:)!! Big O, you're pretty funny when you want to be.
I've worked on enough Fords of my own to know where to place strategic holes to remove nuts and bolts in dumb places. A really long prybar helps too.
Yaassssssssss for that 19.5 socket. Bro literally you are the first person whom I have seen own one of these. I used to use my 19.5 21.5 22.5 when I worked for a dodge dealer. They are amazing!
Not kidding at all I had 2008 fusion with the same problems today. Had two bad tie rod ends and both front tires had belts broke. Great content as always!
Iwhat I like about your channel is the diversity. From simple to more complex jobs. I am learning a lot and entertaining myself at the same time!
Proof that even a beast like Eric has moments of “wtf do I do now?” This will make me feel better when i stumble across some similar crap at work tomorrow lol. Now onto part two where he’ll make it look easy.
another tire thing. I had an 88 nova(like a corolla). when I would drive faster it would pull harder to one side. The mechanic said tire problem. Swapped front and rear and pull went away. he said if its alignment the pull will not change much but if the tire has a bad belt, etc. it will pull harder at higher speed. worked for me.
We call that a radial pull, happens all the time :) Even with new tires!
Ford taught me a big lesson in life, thank you so much you saved me thousands of dollars plus the stress.
Hyundai engineers "We just put the caliper bracket bolts behind the control arm mount".... Ford engineers "Hold my beer"
Now that's funny right there lmao
Well at least Hyundai fixed it on the 16 Elantra
ZeroLyfe The finest 12-pack engineering, as they say.
You win
hahahha Kia also
When I see tire wear like that AND the customer had NO CLUE...I worry that all the technology that warns us of problems is also making us into drivers that won't be able to think behind the wheel. Auto braking ,lane departure warnings etc etc, as they keep"smartening up" the cars, they" dumb down" the drivers SCARY!
I say let natural selection run its course and remove all the safety warnings :)
@@SouthMainAuto I agree 100%. We now have a crop of drivers coming up that don't even know how to do many simple things because the cars keep saving their asses...until one day they don't, that is...
Actually it started way before all that. It's called an automatic transmission. That's when drivers started learning less and less about their cars.
When was the last inspection sticker placed on the car? What shop put the last inspection sticker on the car?Ahh end of part ll "1st time at SMA.".
Thank you, sir, for this video. There are a couple other videos on the front control arms for this car, but they only showed the right side being done, which of course is the side that doesn't involve the bolt being blocked by the transmission pan. I was able to use my floor jack and two blocks of wood to raise the pan, like you did in this video. Granted, I was very nervous because a good bit of pressure had to be applied to the pan to get it high enough to get the bolt out, plus I have the Mazda 6 which I thought might be enough different to cause a problem lifting on the pan. I was afraid it might crush the pan, so I kept lifting a little bit at a time until I got it out.
I remember these fusions when they were brand new at the dealer...and doing the basic checks during the brake job, alignment, recall, thermostat, whatever...I always said damn these ball joints are gonna be a PITA. Turned out they don't look too bad
I do suspension work on a daily. I've actually had people bring me those Fusions who've had their so called "mechanics" put those in without the sleeves. Then they bring it to my shop complaining about a noise over bumps...😂😂
Enjoyed the video as always, some chuckles along with sympathy for your frustration. Keep up the great work!
Done plenty of these control arms. Easy work. Good video!
Nick maybe you can give me a few tips? Having issues with ball joints frozen and getting that sub frame lowered.
Good, Good stuff Eric, no kidding. I feel a little guilty, I’m at work and I can’t stop watching this vid. We’ll gots to get back to work, I’ll look at part 2 on break!
Man I just was doing a set of these on a friends car and ran into the same issues with the tapper/straight. Was able to torch and hit off the bushing off in my vice was a pain forsure nice video man glad I wasn’t the only person confused
Those lowers definitely can be a pain. I had to heat the knuckle with a torch to get each one out even with a big air hammer. Finally them to come out. But good grief what engineer thought up that design? How does that just come out the air into someone's head lol. Anyways I appreciate you doing videos, it definitely helps on things I sometimes forget about if I haven't seen certain vehicles in a while. So much difference In vehicles and so many different issues it's hard to keep it all in mind. Thanks again. God bless you
Came here to understand tie rods (just had replaced - 2009 fusion), stayed for the humor. SO funny!
I luv the sound of big nasty in the evening
This job beat me up when I did it on my Mazda 6. Fantastic bit of engineering on Ford's part. The bushings on those dual lower ball joints came out exactly the same and had to be pulled off with a puller. Wish I'd had a big nasty for it for sure.
they're under $10 each, so easier to toss in new ones in
WHAT?! No video on the Milano subframe replacement? That would be scary to watch. Worthy of two bags of popcorn.
Bahh, gravy job. in and out in a few hours
You weren't kidding about the cliffhanger! Cant wait for part 2!
Yup, same on the Mazda 6's. No fun working DIY on the ground with these. Thanks!
I had a vehicle years ago with all four tires showing steel all the way around, so much steel they'd twinkle in the sunlight. Can't beat a good Michelin. Thanks for the video. Naturally I comment before the end of the video. Gotta say that's one screwy design to say the least, the trans. pan being in the way. Good luck man.
Thanks for all your videos!
I enjoy watching your videos Mr South Main.
Curious to see how you do alignments, I've only been doing them for a year now using a Hunter rack. Could always use some tips and tricks!
Stay tuned for part III
Eric I worked on two of these didn't know that collar comes off, thanks for teaching
I like your parts counter. Yeah, a good place to walk away. All in all it went well to that point. See you on the next one.
Great video! I was looking at a friends Mazda 6 and the suspension and the engine are almost the same as on my '11 Fusion! Other than the obvious Ford snafus, the car rides very nice and is nothing but extremely reliable. Just a little PITA for us DIYers. When I did the control arms on my Fusion, I lifted the transmission and was able to get the bolt out. My trans mount was sagging quite a bit. Maybe when they are new, the bolt can come out more easily.
More work to get to the parts that need to be worked on. Thank you Ford
That's the bolt for the "lifetime" suspension, which just happens to be trapped by the trans with "lifetime" fluid! Ironic!!
It made it past the factory warranty - that is all the vehicle manufacturer's accountants are worried about. It also goes to show how effective the vehicle manufacturer's marketing people have been into getting people to believe vehicles are disposable & if it ever needs repairing you should just go buy a new vehicle.
Just gotta to drop the cradle ever so slightly now the cups attached the the ball joints they are freaking bastards
Eric: I would recommend a change of penetrating oil. I would begin using a product called Freeze-Loc or Freeze-Off. It's available at local parts store, and it's basically liquid nitrogen in a can. Awesome for breaking apart rusted parts, because it breaks rust and corrosion at the molecular level.
I started using Freeze-Loc in 2011 while rebuilding the engine in my Ranger. And I used it to take off the harmonic balancer without air tools.
AHHHHH!!! PART 2!!!! Great vid Mr O!! Please keep them coming!!!
Do I need to disconnect the steering shaft at the foot well and secure the wheel when lowering the subframe for the rearward control arm?
A TRQ video shows them do disconnecting the steering and exhaust but would love to avoid it if I can.
Loooooove these SMA videos, entertaining humor and super educational.
I couldn't find a big nasty but got a chief air hammer from harbor freight and it drove my ball joints for the most satisfaction I've ever felt in my life.
lol
this guy's cool! And makes working on cars look easy
Just good folks👍
THANKS S.M.A🇺🇸
The whole car was designed around that one bolt!!!!
Not far off on some models...
David Browning
Yes, that bolt was the very first part set onto the assembly line. The entire car was built around that bolt. On other makes and models it's typically the heater core that is the first part on the assembly line. Lololol
@@SlipFitGarage kinda like a Northstar or Tundra V8, which were both built around the starter lol
@@jamesberryman751
Exactly! On a side note, I had a Northstar Cadillac many years ago. Luckily I got rid of that car before the head gaskets shit the bed. Lolol.
Gracias amigo muy buenos videos dios lo bendiga por compartir su trabajo y ayudarnos
That impact is a beast
I feel your pain working on this Ford. I replaced spark plugs and wires on Ford Five Hundred. It was a much bigger pain than it needed to be
I seriously love it when u say win this war. Because it's so true dude it really is a war sometimes
excellent video as always Eric. love your channel
Another nice vlog Eric O. We've had Mrs O wielding the spanners how about a video with Eric O in the kitchen preparing lunch?
I had no idea what the Chrome capped nuts were all about. Couldn't believe it when I found out this was actually done. Replaced all nuts with mcgard solid Chrome lug nuts. Couldn't stand that removing the wheel was the hardest part of most jobs. No more. Did the same on sister's car.
i've seen some of those bushings with the holes offset to enable alignment
Mr.O at it again! Thanks for the video good sir
Thanks Eric O. Great video!
Gentle like a lamb... *then wails on it with impact* - Philosophies to live by from Eric O. 2018. 😂
Those bastards... Damn. If it was me i'd probably zip the front engine/gearbox mount off and raise the gear box a few inches with a jack to make room for that bolt. But not after i went outside and smashed a few things...
Hey, appreciate the video really gave me a good place to start from with having to drop the sub frame. A question o have is the Haynes says to disconnect the steering and lock the steering wheel in place, I assume you didn't do that, did you have any issues on the backend with the way you dropped the sub frame?
Makes me thankful I live in AZ where my car never rusts or becomes corroded. But even then I had to beat the shit out of the end of the cv axle when I was removing it.
19:14 taking that sleeve off, use the ball joint splitter to put some pressure on it then give it a lil hit with an air hammer and it should pop off easy. also tapping with a hammer can work if thats all you have
oh thank god you put up a video. i was bored beyond words tonight
All of the NCP (NAPA Chassis) Line is now made by Mevotech.
Brad mevotech is awesome I think.
I've had good luck with Mevotech. The previous NCP line was made by DANA. It was great as well.
PB blaster lubricant for the win 😁😁👍🏾👍🏾
Do a little review on those Harbor Freight impacts
I'm scared, Mr. O, but get that bushing puller and give her the beans!
Yes. Finally a hanging and banging video!
I found out too that the bushingvcomes off. Had a hell of a time removing it! 07' mercury milan
Thank you so much for this video! My car has a case of the weeble wobble at about 10mph and I checked the rim rotation with a micro meter which was in spec, no play in the arm or knuckles and it had me baffled. Just like you say, it goes away above 40mph and I've been driving it for about a year that way now. It does indeed feel like a tire compressing on a single spot, I just don't know which one. At something like 60mph there is a slight returning low frequency hum which is a telltale signal that a wheel is off.
So, yeah, I'll check in for a alignment and see if one of the relatively new (2 year old) tires is at fault here.
I can’t wait to see the next part. Are you gonna do the other side too once you are done with this?
Nope just the side that is loose.
I usually get the high speed shimmy that starts around 50, stops between 65 and 70, then starts again above 70. Out of balance tires sometimes have a sweet spot.
Were there some bolts behind those plastic splash guards that you had to release in order to get the sub frame loose? In the video you just had a couple vertical bolts that you released and then went straight to those splash guards.
Mrs O, how can you stand him! LOL
Greate video I hate when you get jobs like that where you taking everything off but the bad part just to get to it haha
Yow! Very suspenseful cliff hanger...waiting with worms on my tongue (baited breath)... will Ford catch a quick shot to the jaw, or was 3 minutes enough for Eric to find a craftier way to win? We'll see...
Every time I break out the extra long breaker bar or ratchets I know it could go bad fast & hope a few hundred thousand bolt removals will keep me out of trouble. If engineers had to work on what they design they'd find out their design has a few flaws.
Woohoo. Been waiting on this since you teased it last night.
If you read this. I think your outdoors channel would be the perfect home for your Jeep build.
Justin Underwood, that comment needs a heart and pin
We will see when the time comes.
South Main Auto Repair well I hope it gets recorded. Love seeing how work is supposed to be done. If I can convince my wife to come to New York I’ll be sure to come get a service done!
Or just swing in man!
The front suspension on that vintage Fusion is from a Mazda 6.
I have done a couple of lower arm/ball joints on Fusion/Milan and the bushing ALWAYS pulled out.
wow looks like some Eurotrash Audi suspension design xD
On my '96 Mystique the labor time for the right control arm is 1 hour. Left control arm...4 HOURS! Why? Yup, transmission is in the way!!! Some things just don't change lol
Its almost like Ford has become a nightmarish abomination of US and Euro trash. Its understandable in a way because Ford is balls deep in the Euro market in a way GM and Chrysler never were.
my mercedes is more complicated yet 10x easier to disassemble, its a similar design with that control arm bolt but the germans made an access hole so you dont have to remove the subframe.
I was working my girlfriend's rusty Mazda 6 this weekend and cursing Ford the whole time. My favorite part of this wretched platform is having to run an extension through the rear trailing arm to access the rear caliper bolt.
5:05 -- The universe is held together by duct tape ... and dis-assembled with WD-40.
Kevin B Yes correct But remember to use only 3M brand duct tape as it's the "official sponsor" of the Red Green Show. LOL
7:52 back in the early days of me turning wrenches i did the classic reach around on a Ford exhaust pipe. Sent me to the emergency room to get 4 stitches. Sometimes you have to learn the hard way i guess.
I only mention it because I too learned the hard way....
hey eric use your noodle take your pipe stand place it on something solid on the motor and let the car down motor mounts will move enough to let bolt out
John Bartlett exactly what I do...or have done. Tripod and chock of wood works like a charm
Yep
Napa’s premium line is manufacture by Mevotech. So should last as long as MOOG.
Genital...like a lamb. Proceeds to hammer the crap out of it with the impact lol. Rough go on that side. Ford tough.:) can't wait to see part 2. Good luck & as a general rule feel free to kick any automotive engineer you meet straight in the taint (they won't even ask why...they know).
When I got done with them they wouldn't be able to ask why. I kick just a wee bit short of the taint.
stgreen78 The engineers can only do what the accountants allow them to do. The accountants are the ones that control what gets designed & eventually made - it all comes down to the assembly time at the vehicle manufacturer's assembly plant. The accountants major concern is using the least amount of labor to assemble the vehicle as quickly as possible AND that the vehicle remains working until just out of factory warranty coverage - what the repair costs are once the vehicle is out of warranty is of no concern to the accountants. Once the shareholders (aka Stock Market) decide they are more concerned with the repair costs after factory warranty is over, then the accountants will change their tune - but I am not holding my breathe for that to ever happen.
KCautodoctor that does make sense...just a shame it can't be both ways. Quick assembly & easy to work on. I've mostly worked on Japanese cars & they all seem to have at least one special "love letter" from the factory that either requires a trick/special tool/grinder:) to work on. (Thinking of rx300/rav 4 recessed air intake plenum support bolt so close to the firewall you can barely get a finger in there...angry just thinking of it lol...FYI pass-through low profile 1/4" drive socket to loosen, then pull it with 2 index fingers barely able to touch it, then find it somewhere underneath or behind the engine or against the exhaust after it drops ...if you ever run across such a beast :)
Joe Johnson then you obviously have not recently worked for any vehicle manufacturer or know anyone currently involved in the design & manufacturing of vehicles. I strongly recommend you read a book by Bob Lutz (retired Vice Chairman of General Motors) called "Car Guys VS Bean Counters" to better understand how little control the engineers really have in the design & manufacturer of vehicles these days.
Joe Johnson your comment proves you in fact have no knowledge of what is happening right now in the automotive manufacturing industry. Today's vehicle manufacturers are run by accountants - not engineers. Bernie Golick is from way back in the day when things were done very differently.
What kind of parts did you use on the Mercury? Did they come with new bushings?
Eric,
Great video! Do you think the bad tie rod caused that tire wear or perhaps vice versa? Or do you think the two issues are just coincidental?
Thanks and God bless
Paul
Tire was defected and the parts were worn, 2 diff problems
Thank you
God bless
Paul
ford engineering got to love it meant to be easy to put it together not to work on, they sell them cheap and suck the money from you when it time to work on them.
Man watching your video, I feel your pain Mr.O!! I’m currently doing an 05 Cadillac Deville. Getting that idler pulley out is a pain in the butt!! Makes me want to punch an engineer in the face.
Bleep bleep, to be continued lol. Gotta love ford!
only thing he forgot was to charge for the video!
"Most likely, the Big Nasty will be making it's presence"
I notice Astro seems to have disappeared except for Big Nasty and the light. Is the half inch Astro still working? Were you bugged because the little one died, or have you gone over to the battery power dark side, ha ha?
Oh man I seem to have cut the cord for the time being. Mostly because I just wanna see how goods this HF stuff is. Astro has all ready stood the test of time IMO! Not to mention they still work great to this day!
I've pretty much done the same thing Eric O. Got tired of screwing with those dang air hoses and only bring them out when needed. Granted air has the power still, but for most fasteners cordless are more than enough for the job at hand, and it saves my ears.
He’s using the heck out of the HF in this vid.
In my lifetime the only power tools that have lasted longer than a decade are air tools and corded tools. That's not such an issue for a pro since he gets his money out of the tool before the battery fails, but the amateur wants a longer horizon. When the battery does fail, you often can't find a new battery to fit.
HELLO FROM FLORIDA
THANKS 1..2..BBQ👍👍😎
Stay tuned. Same bat time, same bat channel!!!!
Eric something up with your shop air? seems like alot of cordless powered tools lately. ive actually started using alot more cordless stuff to keep down on the noise...
Air is all good, just seeing how these HF tools hold up in a real shop day to day use...
Way to go Ford on the bolt that is pined by the transmission pan