I have the same problem, fixed it on the field temporarily with a piece of rubber that the screw-on collar pressed in hard enough to prevent leaks but I guess I must do the same repair. Thanks for the video!
in looking at some of the comments where OTHER people experienced this same issue, do you have any theories as to WHY exactly this problem occurs? I have an all metal Primus pump for my Himalaya but was wondering why a company that has the reputation that it has (Primus) would risk that reputation by going to a pump design that (apparently) fails! It can't be that much cheaper to build this plastic assembly compared to a piece of aluminum.
I am not sure why it would be built in plastic rather than aluminium. if you split it up into 3 parts you have; - pump - pickup pipe (at start of video) - regulator the pump (from memory) is a press fit into the regulator. I would have thought this would be screw fitted to enable service and prevent any movement of the pump over the course of its life. the pipe that connects the stove to the pump failed on mine the other week too and it looks like there would be no way to repair this in the field. no shop carried the part in stock either so ended up buying a stand in stove for a weekend trip
@@cdgordo89 I agree with you that a screw-in pump design would be BY FAR a more secure/reliable way to build this (the only issue there being aligning the pickup tube so that it is in correct position relative to the regulator section -- it has to be oriented 90 deg to the side-to-side ports on the regulator). One thing I noticed that this pump has that is different from my aluminum pump is this shoulder/stop that can impact the top of the pump every time you push down on the pump handle. My pump doesn't have that. I'm wondering if people are accidentally driving this shoulder against the pump in essence tending to push the pump away from the regulator. You mention a "pipe that connects the stove to the pump" failing -- are you referring to the lindal connector on the fuel line? or the rotating connector on the pump-regulator? And when you said "failed" can you say what exactly was what failed?
@@drcoolit i never knew it was a Lindal connector. the section that had failed was the connection between the Lindal connector and the braided hose. it looks like there may be an O-ring that has broken down over time as I pulled something black out as it started leaking fuel. the actual pipe though looks like it could have been brazed which doesn't make sense either due to the heat required and the rubber that had been present. once i can confirm a location that has stock i will open it up and have a look.
@@cdgordo89 there are times when companies (such as Primus) would look at these TH-cam comments in order to obtain feedback on their products. It's easy for them to just send another pump to someone who has a problem but frankly, just out of pride in what one is doing they might consider re-designing or modifying the existing pump in order to address some of the issues showing up in these videos. I will look forward to any follow-up you have on the findings from this failed area of the hose-connector junction. And you're right that they couldn't braise the hose with an "O" ring in place but I suspect the connection is a crimp and not soldered. Still, there doesn't appear to be any way to replace a seal if one should fail.
I used the following product, www.go-araldite.com/products/epoxy-adhesives/araldite-fusion-3g-syringe A small tube will be enough as it can only be used once.
I have the same problem, fixed it on the field temporarily with a piece of rubber that the screw-on collar pressed in hard enough to prevent leaks but I guess I must do the same repair. Thanks for the video!
Very helpful Vidio. Looking forward to stopping my fuel leak. Very good video.
Regards ada
Thanks! Very useful for me.
very useful tutorial. thanks.
in looking at some of the comments where OTHER people experienced this same issue, do you have any theories as to WHY exactly this problem occurs? I have an all metal Primus pump for my Himalaya but was wondering why a company that has the reputation that it has (Primus) would risk that reputation by going to a pump design that (apparently) fails! It can't be that much cheaper to build this plastic assembly compared to a piece of aluminum.
I am not sure why it would be built in plastic rather than aluminium.
if you split it up into 3 parts you have;
- pump
- pickup pipe (at start of video)
- regulator
the pump (from memory) is a press fit into the regulator. I would have thought this would be screw fitted to enable service and prevent any movement of the pump over the course of its life.
the pipe that connects the stove to the pump failed on mine the other week too and it looks like there would be no way to repair this in the field. no shop carried the part in stock either so ended up buying a stand in stove for a weekend trip
@@cdgordo89 I agree with you that a screw-in pump design would be BY FAR a more secure/reliable way to build this (the only issue there being aligning the pickup tube so that it is in correct position relative to the regulator section -- it has to be oriented 90 deg to the side-to-side ports on the regulator). One thing I noticed that this pump has that is different from my aluminum pump is this shoulder/stop that can impact the top of the pump every time you push down on the pump handle. My pump doesn't have that. I'm wondering if people are accidentally driving this shoulder against the pump in essence tending to push the pump away from the regulator.
You mention a "pipe that connects the stove to the pump" failing -- are you referring to the lindal connector on the fuel line? or the rotating connector on the pump-regulator? And when you said "failed" can you say what exactly was what failed?
@@drcoolit i never knew it was a Lindal connector. the section that had failed was the connection between the Lindal connector and the braided hose. it looks like there may be an O-ring that has broken down over time as I pulled something black out as it started leaking fuel. the actual pipe though looks like it could have been brazed which doesn't make sense either due to the heat required and the rubber that had been present. once i can confirm a location that has stock i will open it up and have a look.
@@cdgordo89 there are times when companies (such as Primus) would look at these TH-cam comments in order to obtain feedback on their products. It's easy for them to just send another pump to someone who has a problem but frankly, just out of pride in what one is doing they might consider re-designing or modifying the existing pump in order to address some of the issues showing up in these videos.
I will look forward to any follow-up you have on the findings from this failed area of the hose-connector junction. And you're right that they couldn't braise the hose with an "O" ring in place but I suspect the connection is a crimp and not soldered. Still, there doesn't appear to be any way to replace a seal if one should fail.
I just discovered one of mine has this exact same problem! Thanks for the video. What's the name of the epoxy?
I have the same problem, but I do not disasambe whoole pump, only put some poxipol on the bottom of plastic.
Thanks! Very useful! Is epoxy petrol-resistant?
It says so in the description of the product. Mine is still working well if that helps?
You seem know abit about them any idea what size the seal is for the return valve rather than buying a service kit.
im not sure what the size would be
How permanent is the epoxy?
Still holding up ok, used the pump last week
Primes won’t warranty the pump?
They probably would, I wanted to know what the issue was and how to repair should this have happened in a remote environment.
I used the following product, www.go-araldite.com/products/epoxy-adhesives/araldite-fusion-3g-syringe
A small tube will be enough as it can only be used once.