DIESEL HEATER HEATING MY HOME EVEN BETTER NOW REVISIONS FIXED
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- PUMPING HOT AIR INTO MY HOME
I bought one of these for my garage, and then thought....... I could heat my home with this! So that's exactly what i did! It is working great pumping hot air into my home. It is keeping us nice and warm and super economical.
I have a carbon monoxide detector just in case, but you don't get any fumes indoors at all
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I hope this may help you in some way. Even if it just makes an idea pop up in your head, of how you can heat your home in cheaper way.
Thanks for looking at my videos cheers Andy..... If you can be anything, be Kind.....
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Andy it's refreshing to see someone who is open to feedback and ideas. Your channel has become the go-to place for diesel heaters now because of your great attitude. Hope you have a great Christmas
Wow, thank you! merry chrismas andy xx
Ha, good point about the muffler. Whoops, no wonder I’m smelling diesel fumes in my barn when it’s starting up.
thank you for your comment
did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
from inside my work shop all is well for me now ...but the short exhaust venting through the wall to out side had a bit of noise to it , so got the 2 meter exhaust tube and an upgrade repackable silencer ( which is repackable like a moto cross silencer ) and the exhaust is now almost silent . that being said im still going to try exhaust through a Honda C 90 silencer mounted to the wall out side at some point.....enjoying the video,s...
thank you , merry chrismas andy
Thanks for listening about the silencer Andy , I did get quite concerned for you . Hope the additional heater keeps things toasty warm for you . MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and yours .
Thanks again! merry chrismas andy
Its not just condensation Andy. The burning if diesel produces quite a bit of water. I would also recommend a Carbon monoxide detector ro be on the safe side. Ie- gasket failures etc
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Andy, Just to add a further note on my previous suggestion on the dumb charger. What I’ve found when using a smart charger connected to a 12 volt battery whilst the heater is running is the following: Sometimes the smart chargers don’t like the constant draw and it will see it as a battery fault and it will either shutdown, or as in one case I had, it destroyed the charger completely! The dumb charger on the other hand just sits at the float voltage and works. You would need a dumb charger that has the capability of charging at the same amps (or slightly higher would be better) as the heater draws on start up. I’ve seen 10 amps being drawn on start up on my diesel heater. Personally I use a 6 amp dumb charger but I don’t have it switched on when the heater first starts up, it uses the power from the battery. Once the heater has settled after first start up I turn the charger on and it stays on for the full duration of the day with know issues whatsoever.
I do similar but have mine going through a timer so it varies between 14v and 13v discharging to 12.5 after 8 hours or so...
Great job. Though to be fair I disagree on the combustion intake. Yes cooler air has a higher o2 content but it negligible. What will occur when you have it in your hallway is that moisture & humidity would be drawn through the combustion chamber then exhausted. A hallway often being wet, damp due to traffic after all.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
The reason why it is best to use outside air for the combustion intake is that if there is a sudden loss of power, there will be exhaust filling up the living space. It will stink up the whole room and you'll have to air out the room to the point that you'll lose all your heat.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Apologies…One further note on my 6 amp dumb charger set-up: I have a digital voltage display permanently connected to the battery so I can monitor Voltage level. When the charger and heater are running together I’ll see the voltage start to creep up until I’m seeing approximately 14.5 volts of a settling charge which is more or less what you would see from a car alternator charging a battery when the engine is running.
The second recommendation I’d like to suggest is what I use with my heater and works perfectly well, and again it will save our heaters. I have me heater connected to a 12 volt sealed lead acid battery, in fact it’s off my golf trolley! I also have a dumb 12 volt battery charger connected and turned on full time whilst the heater is running with absolutely no issues. Remember if our heaters do not go through their correct shutdown procedure our heater will overheat and it will fry the motherboard, trust me! With your current set-up if you have a power failure and you are not standing right next to your heater to get the covers off quickly to let the hot air escape your motherboard will fry. With my set-up the mains power can go off and the heater just keeps running. We actually had a power cut a few weeks back and I’m pleased I had my battery connected in this way. I’m more than happy to say which dumb charger I use if you want me to state it in your comments, I have absolutely no affiliation to this particular company or make of the charger. Just let me know if you are ok with me naming it. Just another note…Smart chargers in my experience will not do the same job as a dumb charger and it can break the smart charger too
I totally agree with you. One power cut whether from the sub station or a faulty kettle, is enough to fry the control board inside the heater body in literally no time. Smart or dumb charger doesn't matter, roughly speaking, as long as it works because after some years, one has to change the battery anyway. Better yet, go for a lithium rechargeable 12V battery if cost is not your primary concern.
next modification!
dumb charger, i like it, hahahahhahah.
cheers andy xxxx
thank you my friend
👍
Could you please link this dumb charger
Hi Andy, you should consider upgrading your fuel tank to a bigger one. I have 20 liter canister and at low setting I don’t need to top up for a week. You can use one of your adblue containers.
i did it in another video.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy and merry Christmas
Hi Andy.
Nice setup.
Imagine, if the garage was airtight, no air could get in the combustion chamber. Sure it’s not airtight, so the cold air will travel from where ever it can get in the garage, cooling the whole room.
If the intake combustion air came from outside, thru the same wall as the exhaust, there would be no cold air draft in the room.
If the intake air pipe passed thru the sand battery, there would be less diesel needed to get the same burn chamber temperature, because the intake air would be warm.
When the pipes are coiled in the sand battery, the airflow is reduced, to have more flow, bigger pipes should be used, or more pipes of the same diameter in parallel are easyer to bend, and have more surface to exange heat.
It’s nice to see what you do with this salad of ideas coming from all around the world.
Cheers.
thank you for your comment , got me thinking there. i can see another video coming on
hahahhahaha
merry Christmas andy xxx
Spot on if you put the exhaust through a insulated hot water tank and install under floor heating you will pretty much max out the potential of the heater
thanks, good idea cheers andy
Cooler air is denser than hot air. Denser air has more oxygen per volume unit, so you can burn the fuel more efficiently. Think how much better the bike goes on a cold day, and you get the idea.🙂
thats true!
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
You should cover at least output pipe with mineral or glass wool to reduce heat loss. Right now you are heating garage as well. Ideally insulate both pipes- input and output.
I wish you a warm and toasty Merry Christmas 🎄🎅🦌🛷 with ample heat 🔥🔥🔥from your diesel heaters 😅. Your videos are the best Christmas gifts 🎁 to freezing people around the world hit by cost of living crisis. A water trap could help but if you could take the muffler outside, it's better altogether - the fewer the number of components, the fewer the potential failures. If you could do a video of recovering the exhaust heat via a BPHE heat exchanger, that would complete the last puzzle, the final nail in the coffin for these heaters. My comment kept disappearing because of a link to a sketch of my idea. How can I share you the link?
not sure, but thanks for your nice comments.
you have a great christmas too!
cheers andy xxxx
Excellent improvements Andy.
Just a thought, what if you used the exhaust heat to heat up the intake blower air. This of course would depend on what temperatures the motor, circuit board's etc could handle. But an interesting way to re-use the heat.
Would love to see someone try this if they had a spare diesel heater that they didn't mind possibly killing, just in case it got too hot.
But imagine how hot the output could be, if the intake air was pre heated.
Or anther thought, use the exhaust heat to further heart the OUTPUT air after the machine, hmmmmm i wonder.
Merry Christmas mate 🎅
hey andy, thanks for your comments, yeah, got me thinking there.
hmmmmm.
merry chrismas mate cheers andy xxx
I'm pretty sure your worries about heating the intake air are right it's the only thing keeping all the important component's cool. The idea of recovering exhaust heat to increase the temperature of the hot air is good in theory but in practice getting a noticeable amount of extra heat isn't going to be easy.
do you no andy if you can power a battery of the power supply as i have the same as you and with it being 12v would it work
thanks andy
🤭
Hi Andy, I’d like to add a couple of improvements that you may want to consider. The heater air intake (not fuel burn intake) pipe should really be dragging in cooler fresh air not recirculated air. Firstly breathing recirculated air isn’t good for us humans, think of hospitals. Back in the day when I was a child I can vividly remember they were very stringent on having windows closed in hospitals, it hasn’t been that long ago where they now realise it’s the opposite, if you have the misfortune to have to go into hospital , keep a look out for a window on a ward being slightly open. There is also more chance of having condensation issues in your house with recirculated air. The next issue with using recirculated air through these heaters is overheating, we’re looking at approximately 115 degrees under the plastic cover before our heaters will overheat and shut down with the possibility of frying the motherboard. Remember the heat coming out of the heater is lower than the heat trapped under the plastic covers so having a cooler air being dragged in rather than a higher temperature air is much better and safer for our heaters.
Unless the room is being heated to sauna-level temps, overheating is not really an issue. And unless the building is a super tight envelope, in which case there would be mechanical ventilation anyway, there’s likely enough passive ventilation. The most efficient way would be to have the entire unit inside and just have holes for the combustion intake and exhaust, but I can see why some people wouldn’t want a diesel combustion device inside their house.
Well that went on for ever
The germs theory changes every now and then 😅. During the late 19th to early 20th century, germs were though to be air borne, then people discovered that it was actually water borne. Now it is considered largely immune and lifestyle borne.
Recirculating warm air indoor is ok as long as the passive/active ventilation system inside the house is efficient enough to prevent excess CO2 and condensation build up. Having said that, drawing dry cold air from outside makes less condensation inside.
The overheating issue can be overcome with using the latest controller that has automatic thermostat like temperature control, e.g., turn on at 15C and turn off at 22C.
Just the opposite of every single house in canada ?