You sir have saved both my sanity and wallet, and have my sincere thanks. My Evolution I've had for 2 years started acting up and after finally determining it was either a problem in the air valve or the needle casing, I nearly bought a new one. But by watching your crystal clear, easy to follow video a few times I realized it didn't as complicated as I thought. Following along step by step, I cleaned it all out, replaced the seals and it is literally as good as new. I seriously cannot thank you enough! All the best to you sir 😃
You are very welcome and i'm pleased it helped. Sanity is mostly overrated but always glad if it saves someone a bit of money. I see you paint mini's, i'll take a look, I'm hopeless at brush painting and effects so any tips and pointers are appreciated.
@@spidiq8 I'd be happy to help you on brush painting info. The Citadel Paint App is a really useful place to start. It has lots of videos on the fundamentals as well as more advanced ones.
@@DarcyBonoCreations That's very kind of you thanks. I'm typically a vehicle builder, cars and motorbikes so my brush painting on those is minimal, i've tried a couple of minis but seeing some of the amazing paint jobs out there makes me a bit embarrassed.
Very complete and comprehensive. I have watched several videos over the years on cleaning airbrushes and always have a shudder when I see folk re-introducing the needle, point first into the rear of the brush. The nozzle and the taper point on the needle are the most delicate part, stuff the point onto part of the body and the needle is damaged. You have shown the safe and simple way. Thanks.
Thank you for your feedback. I'm pleased you found this useful and indeed. Like yourself. Seeing some methods of stripping and ahem 'cleaning' by backflushing etc makes me cringe inwardly. The very first thing I was taught as a paint sprayer trainee many years ago was that your equipment, regardless of the name on it is only as good as the maintenance it receives and the condition it's kept in. The brush in this very video was a great example, it was bought second hand and supposedly cleaned and tested and working, it was filthy, poorly maintained and as seen missing numerous seals and the ones that weren't missing were worn. However, grumble aside, I do like knowing that my videos are helpful so thanks once again.
Thanks for the detailed, long video! I've seen so many videos like this where they just fly through everything and don't really let you see what they're actually doing. I love the methodical approach where you can actually see what is going on. My H&S has been giving me a ton of headaches lately, lots of bubbling in the cup, instant clogging, paint building up inside the nozzle, liquid bubbling out where the trigger is, etc. I have a full seal kit and I'm definitely going to give it a go.. the brush is so nice (although it came missing the needle packing o-ring altogether) that I really want to have it working again.
Super helpful video!! Had an issue with my evolution having air escape from the nozzle even when not being used, was advised the spring tension needs to be increased in the air valve but its my first airbrush so had no idea where it is or what to do, you're video guided me through taking it apart and fixing the problem!
With the H&S needles that have numbered ridges at the end that show you what needle size it is, can you still insert the needle from the front or will the ridges damage the needle packing seal?
Any idea why I am getting bubbling from the seam between the main body and the nozzle (just to the side of the cup)? None in the actual cup itself. I'm assuming there is a leak there but that connection isn't covered in this video.
One of the areas to check carefully is where the cup screws to the body of the brush. Ensure the threads are clean and the seal is good. Remove the cup and try with a small amount of fluid. If that stops it that's where the problem is. Otherwise all you can do is carefully check all areas are spotlessly clean and sealing well
Hi in not sure what size o ring I need for my nozel on my airbrush. It's a kknoon airbrush. Are you able to tell me were I mite get one. It a Chinese airbrush what I got with a compressor set. Thanks
I have no idea unfortunately. That's not a brand I'm familiar with. It could be a clone of another brush or a completely independent design. You'll need to measure either the old seal or the place it fits and will need a Vernier caliper for accurate measurements.
Is there a reason you remove the needle through the front of the airbrush? Do you happen to have the article number of the service kit with the springs?
If you watch my airbrush cleaning videos you'll see the detailing of needle removal and such. It's to prevent unnecessary damage to the seals is the short answer. I don't have the kit info to hand as it's years since I did this.
Hi dose the o ring kneed to be visible once fired to the nozel or not and how rite doze the nozel need to be o e fitted the new o ring.? Is that the same for any airbrush?
@@billysayers7941 You'd need to search for H&S and Iwata parts suppliers and see if you have a local authorised stockist. I bought mine online from I think Barwell in the UK
No air is coming through my H&S brush. Can't figure out why. I have the needle and trigger assembly out trying to depress the valve and nothing happens... This airbrush has been nothing but a pain compared to my Badgers.
Excellent video, depending on use and/or abuse airbrushes will wear out seals. I suspect you've saved a lot of users grief, aggravation and money - brilliant!👍😊 Can I ask how long you've used/owned your H&S airbrush - and how many hours you've used it before seal replacement was required, please. Thanks👍😊
Glad it was helpful. This particular brush honestly gets very little use as I tend to reach for my Iwata over any of the others. I bought this (ab)used and the teflon seal was wrecked through improper cleaning by the previous user. So far, with cleaning laid out in my other video it still performs great since the seal replacement in this video.
@@spidiq8 Hi, thanks for the prompt reply. Understood re your H&S airbrush, it should serve you well now. I use H&S and Sparmax as I have a wide range of modelling needs and wants from large scale through to detail work. Most of my airbrushes have an overlap but have a specific role to play - plus I can pretty much avoid rattle cans and work indoors now😊👍 I hope that you enjoy the H&S, they're a good product.👍😊
Perfect video, also bought a 2nd that was supposed to be cleaned and working... Paint everywhere, time to change the seals :) Don't you lubricate when you rebuild?
I don't, the simple reason is that lubricant has no place in a painting system. Needle lube etc is just snake oil. If you have something sticking like the needle lubricating it isn't fixing the cause and the lubricant can get into the paint. I worked at a garage for years and painted there in addition to mechanical work. Our regular sprayer taught me and another mechanic and I can tell you there's no such thing as spray gun lube or spray gun cleaner. There's 'gunwash' which is dirt cheap and essentially raw cellulose thinner and lubricant, grease, oil etc goes nowhere near a spray gun, it's the fastest way to wreck a paint job. Admittedly on a small plastic model kit is less of a concern but unless you like redoing paintwork there's no point. Of all the airbrushes I have. I can pick up and plug in any one of them and spray right now with no prep as they're cleaned properly as per my video on cleaning after every spray session and they all work smoothly.
@@spidiq8 OK. I used my airbrush without problem since the beginning. But when I saw the one I got second hand with paint even at the back I was wondering if the lubricant would help with sealing.. But I guess the seal is just tired. Gonna order the full package 👌
@@Lambig56 If it's the compressible Teflon type seal try tightening it down slightly first. These tend to wear due to dragging the needle out of the back which takes pigment and paint residue with it and wears the seal but you can tighten them up to a degree before they're too worn to seal.
@@Lambig56 No problem. If the spray is inconsistent it'll be the seals or needle/nozzle but you certainly don't want paint creeping back along the needle. You can get a needle packing double seal conversion kit for the H&S also.
A pretty comprehensive re-seal your Evolution tutorial. So thank you for shooting (editing!) and posting. And no need to apologise for the length of the video … as far as I am concerned at least. A couple of quick observations, if I may? You didn't appear to use (or make any comment on) using any lube on certain key areas of the airbrush (Beetle juice, Iwata Superlube or whatever.) Is that because you don't believe in it, or did you decide that the video tutorial was already getting pretty long, and hence omitted any reference to it? Regarding the needle packing Teflon seal and its screw. I note that your Evolution Silverline has just a SINGLE Teflon needle packing seal. On their higher-end airbrushes (CRPlus versions), Harder & Steenbeck use a TRIPLE Teflon seal arrangement. Naturally, this requires a deeper recess in the (longer) needle packing seal brass screw (in order to accommodate THREE Teflon seals.) A TRIPLE needle packing seals and (longer) brass 'carburettor jet' screw 'upgrade' kit (REF: ATETSU) is available from Air-craft.net. Did you consider making this upgrade to your Evolution Silverline? Or did you think the cost (currently GBP £6.98, plus shipping within the UK from £2.15 from Air-craft.net) wasn't justifiable for your needs? According to Air-craft.net's listing, the 'Triple Seal Upgrade' kit is ... "particularly suited for those who use their airbrushes heavily or commercially, and are looking for something that will last longer than the standard Single seal." The upgrade can be fitted to H&S's Ultra, Evolution, Grafo and Infinity ranges of airbrushes, and comprises the (longer) triple seal retaining screw (part no. 126470) and 3 off PTFE needle seals (part no. 123450). For reference, the standard (SINGLE) brass needle seal retaining screw is part no. 123471 - £2.48, and a single PTFE needle seal is part no. 123450 (the same as for the triple seal version above), listed at £1.40 per each. Hope this info might prove useful for anyone contemplating putting your excellent tutorial into practice. 👍 P.S. .… the usual disclaimers!
Mark Pearce Firstly, I'm glad you enjoyed the tutorial. Thank you for the feedback and questions. Lube/regdab/ etc, I feel is a complete waste of time and your money. In all the years I sprayed full size professionally in the auto trade, we never encountered, let alone needed or used lube of any description. You're placing paint and thinners into your brush and you want paint and thinners to land on your project piece, the thing you absolutely DON'T want are contaminants, anything that 'lubricates' is a contaminant. This is the reason I never mentioned it and for the same reason I'd never recommend it. My cheap Chinese dual action brush is 12 years old and has had enough use and cleaning for the plating to begin to wear in the paint cup, my Iwata Revolution CR is 10 years old and has been my standard brush since I got it, my Badger Renegade Velocity was bought second hand, stripped cleaned, resealed, repaired and has been used extensively and exclusively on my last kit, the T-34/76 (and my Totoro scratch build), the H&S was bought second hand and now the seals are replaced and it too has been stripped, serviced and re sealed I expect it to perform every bit as well as the others. In all that time, not a single one of them has used lube and not a single one has had a problem. If something is sticking it's due to dirty improperly cleaned components or contaminated swollen o rings. Re the needle packing, I'm aware of the triple seal and do think it could be useful for airbrush artists for example. Most especially for anyone working with inks and heavily thinned paints, I don't see any real benefit to a model painter however but saying that, it certainly won't hurt to fit one if you like the idea and the packing screw and packing is not very expensive, fitting and adjusting would be exactly the same as the single seal in the video.
@@jnrmack So does mine. The seals react with thinners I up graded to the triple seals and it has still done it, In my lowly opinion the seals are made from a crappy material not suited to the thinners we all use.
David Wozny Glad it's useful, I've just gotten a second hand NEO Iwata and will be doing a full teardown, clean and rebuild on that when I get a moment to film it.
@@danielmesch9281 If you mean the packing seals then in theory yes, however it depends if you can tighten the packing down adequately, if you can't compress it then it won't seal properly.
@@spidiq8 Ok, i am going to try with just the one seal and see what happens. But it came from the factory with three seals, so i doubt that it will work. Thank you sooo much for this video!! cheers!
Perhaps it's weird because it's not a language native to me, nothing to do with liking it but liking a language. I attempt it also in my review of the Rollei camera. I could ask every non English person why their voice is weird when speaking English but I don't because A it's rude B I can assume easily it's not their native tongue C it's better to try than be someone who refuses to attempt other languages and assume that everyone will speak yours. I always try to pick up phrases and useful bits when I visit other countries and can say. No matter how bad my accent or pronunciation it's met typically with enthusiasm and appreciation for trying. Perhaps not better to leave it? Strange comment aside I hope the video was of use to you. 🙂
You sir have saved both my sanity and wallet, and have my sincere thanks. My Evolution I've had for 2 years started acting up and after finally determining it was either a problem in the air valve or the needle casing, I nearly bought a new one. But by watching your crystal clear, easy to follow video a few times I realized it didn't as complicated as I thought. Following along step by step, I cleaned it all out, replaced the seals and it is literally as good as new. I seriously cannot thank you enough! All the best to you sir 😃
You are very welcome and i'm pleased it helped. Sanity is mostly overrated but always glad if it saves someone a bit of money.
I see you paint mini's, i'll take a look, I'm hopeless at brush painting and effects so any tips and pointers are appreciated.
@@spidiq8 I'd be happy to help you on brush painting info. The Citadel Paint App is a really useful place to start. It has lots of videos on the fundamentals as well as more advanced ones.
@@DarcyBonoCreations That's very kind of you thanks.
I'm typically a vehicle builder, cars and motorbikes so my brush painting on those is minimal, i've tried a couple of minis but seeing some of the amazing paint jobs out there makes me a bit embarrassed.
5 years old but still useful. Thanks
Very complete and comprehensive. I have watched several videos over the years on cleaning airbrushes and always have a shudder when I see folk re-introducing the needle, point first into the rear of the brush. The nozzle and the taper point on the needle are the most delicate part, stuff the point onto part of the body and the needle is damaged. You have shown the safe and simple way. Thanks.
Thank you for your feedback. I'm pleased you found this useful and indeed. Like yourself. Seeing some methods of stripping and ahem 'cleaning' by backflushing etc makes me cringe inwardly.
The very first thing I was taught as a paint sprayer trainee many years ago was that your equipment, regardless of the name on it is only as good as the maintenance it receives and the condition it's kept in.
The brush in this very video was a great example, it was bought second hand and supposedly cleaned and tested and working, it was filthy, poorly maintained and as seen missing numerous seals and the ones that weren't missing were worn.
However, grumble aside, I do like knowing that my videos are helpful so thanks once again.
I just managed to change the seals on my aibrush, based on your video. Many thanks!
Thanks for the detailed, long video! I've seen so many videos like this where they just fly through everything and don't really let you see what they're actually doing. I love the methodical approach where you can actually see what is going on. My H&S has been giving me a ton of headaches lately, lots of bubbling in the cup, instant clogging, paint building up inside the nozzle, liquid bubbling out where the trigger is, etc. I have a full seal kit and I'm definitely going to give it a go.. the brush is so nice (although it came missing the needle packing o-ring altogether) that I really want to have it working again.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad you liked it and hope you get your brush up and running soon.
Thank you kindly for making this extremerly helpful video. My eveloution still going strong after so many years of use. A+++
Thank you so much ! I just fixed my airbrush thanks to your video. :D
Super helpful video!!
Had an issue with my evolution having air escape from the nozzle even when not being used, was advised the spring tension needs to be increased in the air valve but its my first airbrush so had no idea where it is or what to do, you're video guided me through taking it apart and fixing the problem!
Glad it helped.
Cheers for the step by step guide, the H&S screwdriver is handy though as the placement and width of the head needed is unusual misses 🤣
Thanks for all the time put in the video
With the H&S needles that have numbered ridges at the end that
show you what needle size it is, can you still insert the needle from the front
or will the ridges damage the needle packing seal?
Any idea why I am getting bubbling from the seam between the main body and the nozzle (just to the side of the cup)? None in the actual cup itself. I'm assuming there is a leak there but that connection isn't covered in this video.
this was just what I needed. Thank you!
You sir are a blessing, THANK YOU
I'm glad that it was useful to you.
Wonderful video, many many thanks!
Thanks for this video.. Very helpful
Thank you so much for this video. It soon time for a service for my Evolution Silverline. I subscribed! God Bless you 🙏
A great help, as my nozzle seal was destroyed on my 0.4mm head.
I really helped, changing all the o-rings, but it seems like there a still a little bit of air comming in when then fluid goes out. Any solutions
One of the areas to check carefully is where the cup screws to the body of the brush.
Ensure the threads are clean and the seal is good.
Remove the cup and try with a small amount of fluid. If that stops it that's where the problem is.
Otherwise all you can do is carefully check all areas are spotlessly clean and sealing well
It helped, Thanks dudenes now its like new again @@spidiq8
Hi in not sure what size o ring I need for my nozel on my airbrush. It's a kknoon airbrush. Are you able to tell me were I mite get one. It a Chinese airbrush what I got with a compressor set.
Thanks
I have no idea unfortunately. That's not a brand I'm familiar with. It could be a clone of another brush or a completely independent design.
You'll need to measure either the old seal or the place it fits and will need a Vernier caliper for accurate measurements.
Is there a reason you remove the needle through the front of the airbrush? Do you happen to have the article number of the service kit with the springs?
If you watch my airbrush cleaning videos you'll see the detailing of needle removal and such.
It's to prevent unnecessary damage to the seals is the short answer.
I don't have the kit info to hand as it's years since I did this.
Hi dose the o ring kneed to be visible once fired to the nozel or not and how rite doze the nozel need to be o e fitted the new o ring.? Is that the same for any airbrush?
The O ring should not be visible once sealed. The same applies for any brush using one as it creates a seal between two parts.
We're would I get a set of or rings for my iwata neo and my harder and steenbeck ultra airbrush. Please.
@@billysayers7941 You'd need to search for H&S and Iwata parts suppliers and see if you have a local authorised stockist.
I bought mine online from I think Barwell in the UK
I have this brush too. Do you think the little screwdriver that comes with it will fit inside my iwata eclipse? It's been acting up
I couldn't say for sure but most airbrushes use the same slotted brass nut
Great video.
No air is coming through my H&S brush. Can't figure out why. I have the needle and trigger assembly out trying to depress the valve and nothing happens... This airbrush has been nothing but a pain compared to my Badgers.
They can be finicky for some it seems. It has to be the air valve that's the problem. You'll need to dissemble that from the airbrush handle.
@@spidiq8 Definitely seems like valve issue. I've taken it apart a couple times and it's a pain in the ass because no air will come through.
Excellent video, depending on use and/or abuse airbrushes will wear out seals. I suspect you've saved a lot of users grief, aggravation and money - brilliant!👍😊
Can I ask how long you've used/owned your H&S airbrush - and how many hours you've used it before seal replacement was required, please.
Thanks👍😊
Glad it was helpful. This particular brush honestly gets very little use as I tend to reach for my Iwata over any of the others.
I bought this (ab)used and the teflon seal was wrecked through improper cleaning by the previous user. So far, with cleaning laid out in my other video it still performs great since the seal replacement in this video.
@@spidiq8 Hi, thanks for the prompt reply. Understood re your H&S airbrush, it should serve you well now. I use H&S and Sparmax as I have a wide range of modelling needs and wants from large scale through to detail work. Most of my airbrushes have an overlap but have a specific role to play - plus I can pretty much avoid rattle cans and work indoors now😊👍 I hope that you enjoy the H&S, they're a good product.👍😊
Thank you, thank you very much. It is very helpful!!
Thank you thank you thank you ❤ 🎉
Perfect video, also bought a 2nd that was supposed to be cleaned and working... Paint everywhere, time to change the seals :)
Don't you lubricate when you rebuild?
I don't, the simple reason is that lubricant has no place in a painting system.
Needle lube etc is just snake oil. If you have something sticking like the needle lubricating it isn't fixing the cause and the lubricant can get into the paint.
I worked at a garage for years and painted there in addition to mechanical work. Our regular sprayer taught me and another mechanic and I can tell you there's no such thing as spray gun lube or spray gun cleaner.
There's 'gunwash' which is dirt cheap and essentially raw cellulose thinner and lubricant, grease, oil etc goes nowhere near a spray gun, it's the fastest way to wreck a paint job.
Admittedly on a small plastic model kit is less of a concern but unless you like redoing paintwork there's no point.
Of all the airbrushes I have. I can pick up and plug in any one of them and spray right now with no prep as they're cleaned properly as per my video on cleaning after every spray session and they all work smoothly.
@@spidiq8 OK. I used my airbrush without problem since the beginning. But when I saw the one I got second hand with paint even at the back I was wondering if the lubricant would help with sealing.. But I guess the seal is just tired. Gonna order the full package 👌
@@Lambig56 If it's the compressible Teflon type seal try tightening it down slightly first.
These tend to wear due to dragging the needle out of the back which takes pigment and paint residue with it and wears the seal but you can tighten them up to a degree before they're too worn to seal.
@@spidiq8 OK I'll try that at first, but the spray isn't consistent so I guess I'll do the service anyway. Thanks for your answers 👌
@@Lambig56 No problem. If the spray is inconsistent it'll be the seals or needle/nozzle but you certainly don't want paint creeping back along the needle.
You can get a needle packing double seal conversion kit for the H&S also.
A pretty comprehensive re-seal your Evolution tutorial. So thank you for shooting (editing!) and posting. And no need to apologise for the length of the video … as far as I am concerned at least.
A couple of quick observations, if I may?
You didn't appear to use (or make any comment on) using any lube on certain key areas of the airbrush (Beetle juice, Iwata Superlube or whatever.) Is that because you don't believe in it, or did you decide that the video tutorial was already getting pretty long, and hence omitted any reference to it?
Regarding the needle packing Teflon seal and its screw. I note that your Evolution Silverline has just a SINGLE Teflon needle packing seal. On their higher-end airbrushes (CRPlus versions), Harder & Steenbeck use a TRIPLE Teflon seal arrangement. Naturally, this requires a deeper recess in the (longer) needle packing seal brass screw (in order to accommodate THREE Teflon seals.)
A TRIPLE needle packing seals and (longer) brass 'carburettor jet' screw 'upgrade' kit (REF: ATETSU) is available from Air-craft.net. Did you consider making this upgrade to your Evolution Silverline? Or did you think the cost (currently GBP £6.98, plus shipping within the UK from £2.15 from Air-craft.net) wasn't justifiable for your needs?
According to Air-craft.net's listing, the 'Triple Seal Upgrade' kit is ... "particularly suited for those who use their airbrushes heavily or commercially, and are looking for something that will last longer than the standard Single seal." The upgrade can be fitted to H&S's Ultra, Evolution, Grafo and Infinity ranges of airbrushes, and comprises the (longer) triple seal retaining screw (part no. 126470) and 3 off PTFE needle seals (part no. 123450).
For reference, the standard (SINGLE) brass needle seal retaining screw is part no. 123471 - £2.48, and a single PTFE needle seal is part no. 123450 (the same as for the triple seal version above), listed at £1.40 per each.
Hope this info might prove useful for anyone contemplating putting your excellent tutorial into practice. 👍
P.S. .… the usual disclaimers!
Night Owl Service .… happy to oblige! 😜
Mark Pearce Firstly, I'm glad you enjoyed the tutorial.
Thank you for the feedback and questions.
Lube/regdab/ etc, I feel is a complete waste of time and your money.
In all the years I sprayed full size professionally in the auto trade, we never encountered, let alone needed or used lube of any description. You're placing paint and thinners into your brush and you want paint and thinners to land on your project piece, the thing you absolutely DON'T want are contaminants, anything that 'lubricates' is a contaminant.
This is the reason I never mentioned it and for the same reason I'd never recommend it.
My cheap Chinese dual action brush is 12 years old and has had enough use and cleaning for the plating to begin to wear in the paint cup, my Iwata Revolution CR is 10 years old and has been my standard brush since I got it, my Badger Renegade Velocity was bought second hand, stripped cleaned, resealed, repaired and has been used extensively and exclusively on my last kit, the T-34/76 (and my Totoro scratch build), the H&S was bought second hand and now the seals are replaced and it too has been stripped, serviced and re sealed I expect it to perform every bit as well as the others.
In all that time, not a single one of them has used lube and not a single one has had a problem.
If something is sticking it's due to dirty improperly cleaned components or contaminated swollen o rings.
Re the needle packing, I'm aware of the triple seal and do think it could be useful for airbrush artists for example.
Most especially for anyone working with inks and heavily thinned paints, I don't see any real benefit to a model painter however but saying that, it certainly won't hurt to fit one if you like the idea and the packing screw and packing is not very expensive, fitting and adjusting would be exactly the same as the single seal in the video.
the triple seal still leaks with thinned paints i would like the option of rubber seals for the modellers as many use acrylics.
@@jnrmack So does mine. The seals react with thinners I up graded to the triple seals and it has still done it, In my lowly opinion the seals are made from a crappy material not suited to the thinners we all use.
super helpful thxs mate
Thank you sir
👍 thank you i have the same airbrush and i must do that
David Wozny Glad it's useful, I've just gotten a second hand NEO Iwata and will be doing a full teardown, clean and rebuild on that when I get a moment to film it.
Cool
Thanks
Have a infinity CR plus, which hold 3 packing needle seals.apart from that your video suits my airbrush. Thank you.
Yes, the triple seal set is an option you can add to any of the h&s.
Glad the video is helpful.
@@spidiq8 i also have the CR Plus, will it work with just one seal? (the pink one) Or do i have to have three?
@@danielmesch9281 If you mean the packing seals then in theory yes, however it depends if you can tighten the packing down adequately, if you can't compress it then it won't seal properly.
@@spidiq8 Ok, i am going to try with just the one seal and see what happens. But it came from the factory with three seals, so i doubt that it will work.
Thank you sooo much for this video!! cheers!
@@danielmesch9281 Good luck. Let me know how it goes please as it could be useful for other users.
Nevertheless: Thank you for the explanation.
TRY THE HARDER & STEENBECK INFINITY BLINDFOLD CHALLENGE IF YOU DARE 😳
Why is your voice so weird when you speak german! Don`t you like it? Lass es dann lieber!
Perhaps it's weird because it's not a language native to me, nothing to do with liking it but liking a language.
I attempt it also in my review of the Rollei camera.
I could ask every non English person why their voice is weird when speaking English but I don't because
A it's rude
B I can assume easily it's not their native tongue
C it's better to try than be someone who refuses to attempt other languages and assume that everyone will speak yours.
I always try to pick up phrases and useful bits when I visit other countries and can say. No matter how bad my accent or pronunciation it's met typically with enthusiasm and appreciation for trying.
Perhaps not better to leave it?
Strange comment aside I hope the video was of use to you. 🙂
@@spidiq8 Yes it was, maybe i was a little overhasty with my comment, sorry for that! Have a good evening.
@@bobwil9903 No problem and no harm done, thank you for replying. Flag the video was helpful. Stay safe out there in this current crazy situation.
Stay safe!