This video has to be the sweet spot for people wanting to do this at home without a huge foundry setup and complicated sands. This stuff just worked. Gonna upgrade to propane and make a frame for a quadcopter this week.
I will be getting off the couch, shortly after I watch this video and the latest from Robinson Foundry. Yes, it is sunny out, a crisp 18 degrees, but more importantly the wind of the last couple of days has departed, so it will be a decently pleasant day to cast metal . . . after I shovel away the snow for a path between the house and my shed and the snow drift in front of the shed. I am happy to see that someone has nicer February casting conditions. 🙂 Another great video. I wasn't sure the cast was going to work, fearing that the gases would not be hot enough to melt the vent opposite your sprue and escape, but that piece looks great!
Yeah, we are having some great weather for February. I know sometimes it's hard to get off the couch on even sunny days. I understand your struggles. I wasn't sure either, but they somehow escaped and gave me a great cast 👍🔥🔥🔥
Another great one brother. Say, what size crucible are you using? Looks bigger than a 5. Cutting the spru and vent looks like a good job for a 4.5" cut off wheel.😎😎⛏⛏🔥🔥
Thanks! This one was a good experiment... Casting it how I did. This is a 5kg crucible. It's not very big. Yeah a cut off wheel would have been good. I still to this day just use a hacksaw 😂😂😂
The blowout on the edges usually happens when doing heavy metal like brass or copper. I very rarely get that when doing aluminum. To prevent that I add a thicker coat to just the edges which includes sand in the drywall mud coating. You will see that in next weeks video where I cast Brass.
This is really interesting. Are you willing to try "lost wax casting" in delft clay instead of plaster. If this works and you can cast parts with undercuts without the burnout cycle and all that other involved stuff, this would be a game changer for me.
I'm all about trying new things and seeing if they work. First I want to say in theory it sounds like it could work, but as I think about it... I don't think it will. You probably would still need to do the burnout with wax. Foam is easy to burn, at least polystyrene is. If you don't do the burnout with wax, I'm sure it will not fill in all the way or make a crappy casting. Lost foam is a game changer though. Check out my most recent video posted yesterday. It really is amazing what you can make with foam.
@@HeinrichsMade I mean with the burnout! Simply turning the whole sand block upside down and burn out the wax with a small torch or in an oven or on a stove etc. I didn´t mean to cast without removing the wax first. I agree leaving the wax in the cavity and casting will be a huge mess for sure, the wax will most likely ignite as well. Here is what I have seen what did work and where I got my inspiration from: - One layer of plaster really thin on a polymer master part and then bury it in green sand and cast. The guy did it without a burnout though. Worked pretty well, the detail was pretty good. That´s why I started wondering if this would work even better with a burn out. - Polymer master part without plaster in sand, turning the whole sand block and burning out as much polymer as possible. The guy didn´t get all all the polymer out. The part he got out looked clean though. - Rotary casting a piece of silver in delft clay. Cavity was filled with wax and lost cast in delft clay was performed (2018 read it on a forum with pictures) The casting looked really clean. Here the pressure got rid of the wax. My goal is to cast complex parts with undercuts without the expensive equipment and material usually used in lost wax casting. The advantage of wax over foam is it has more details and wax like models can be 3D printed pretty easy. One can also use polymer like Polycast with a FDM printer instead. Here are my proposals, what do you think ? - Cover wax model thinly in plaster (Regular plaster used as investment does not work but here the plaster model is thin and it will be placed in delft clay to give it stability). Rotate the mold box and burn out the wax. The cast as usual. - Place the wax master directly in delft clay. Compress the clay really well. Turn the mold box upside down and gently burn out the wax. Cast as usual. My assumption is unlike regular casting sand the delft clay will not absorb the wax, thus leaving a clean cavity and getting rid of the wax. I don´t have any delft clay or wax on hand, maybe you do, if so you could simply compress some clay and melt wax on it to see if it will absorb or run off. Thank you for the quick reply btw. I am not a metal cast specialist in any way, just a regular mechanical engineer, thus the interest for casting and alike, so maybe we can work something out together ? I mean I can supply you with designs for 3D prints etc.
@@sierraecho884 I see what you are saying, Your proposal actually sounds like it might work. If it had a thin layer of plaster the sand wouldn't absorb the wax. When heating slay it also hardens it. So during the burnout it would also harden the clay making it more stable. This happens with my greensand as well. The only thing I can think of is deforming the wax by compressing the clay. However you shouldn't need to compress it that hard. I would actually like to try this. I have some blocks of wax laying around that I purchased last year. Intending on trying lost wax casting - I never got around to trying lost wax. However, Currently I don't have any delft clay. I will put this on my list of things to try, but not sure how long it will be. Definitely worth giving it a shot 👍
@@HeinrichsMade This sounds really great. Can´t wait so see your results. What do you predict will happen and what kind of experiments do you want to run ? There are a couple of variables to test. - Master Material wax or polymer? Maybe one is better, cheaper, easier to work with ? Polymer can be easily printed in FDM and is cheap waxlike can also be printed but is more involved and expensive. - Which type of sand should be used ? Delft clay for sure but also your greensand ? You mentioned that it hardens during burnout. - With thin plaster coating or without ? If using plaster I would brush it on to capture all the details and then use plaster and sand to create an outer crust or shell. Kind of like one would do with suspendaslurry. - What should the burnout be ? My whole point is, I don´t have a nice burnout oven. I am using a gas camping stove right now so super ultra cheap xD - How to properly read or compare the results ? A complex cast with many undercuts would be great, after all what´s the point of being able to cast undercuts and casting stuff you can simply sand cast instead ?
@@sierraecho884 I actually asked some friends in a discord group regarding this. Someone was actually trying out today 🤣🤣🤣 We all think that adding a hardshell to the wax would work better than just thin plaster coating. Maybe mixing sand with the plaster for the coating. I've done that with lost foam in the past for copper and brass. It works great. I'd like to invite you to the metal Casting discord server. discord.gg/nr2mWBHe
This is just dry sand I found outside by the beach. I sifted it with a decent sifter. I'm sure if you bought play sand and let it dry. It would work just fine. #1 thing is it has to be dry.
This video has to be the sweet spot for people wanting to do this at home without a huge foundry setup and complicated sands. This stuff just worked. Gonna upgrade to propane and make a frame for a quadcopter this week.
Yeah I love my propane furnace. You can melt so much more metal.
That method seemed to capture all the details really well. Never ending journey of learning.
Glad you enjoyed it! It definitely is a never ending journey, but I love it!
I will be getting off the couch, shortly after I watch this video and the latest from Robinson Foundry. Yes, it is sunny out, a crisp 18 degrees, but more importantly the wind of the last couple of days has departed, so it will be a decently pleasant day to cast metal . . . after I shovel away the snow for a path between the house and my shed and the snow drift in front of the shed. I am happy to see that someone has nicer February casting conditions. 🙂
Another great video. I wasn't sure the cast was going to work, fearing that the gases would not be hot enough to melt the vent opposite your sprue and escape, but that piece looks great!
Yeah, we are having some great weather for February. I know sometimes it's hard to get off the couch on even sunny days. I understand your struggles.
I wasn't sure either, but they somehow escaped and gave me a great cast 👍🔥🔥🔥
Awesome pour brother!!! It looks great.
Thank you! Cheers!
Turned out great
Thanks
DUDE! thats neat as hell
Thanks Clint 👍. Check out my lost foam casting playlist. I have a bunch of cool stuff I've already done 💯
I think this worked well. Great job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Another great one brother. Say, what size crucible are you using? Looks bigger than a 5. Cutting the spru and vent looks like a good job for a 4.5" cut off wheel.😎😎⛏⛏🔥🔥
Thanks! This one was a good experiment... Casting it how I did. This is a 5kg crucible. It's not very big. Yeah a cut off wheel would have been good. I still to this day just use a hacksaw 😂😂😂
Awesome! I remember the last one looked good but this one looks really nice and clean! 👊👊👊👊
Thanks! Yeah I think doing a layered foam pattern with voids is best done horizontally. 🔥🔥🔥👍👍👍
Great job, thanks for showing us.
Thanks for watching Matt, you bet!
Awesome job Mark
Thanks Donald 👍👍👍👍
Получилось отлично даже без флюса
Thanks, I don't use flux when using aluminum.
What did you do differently to prevent the "blowout" at the edges from your early video?
The blowout on the edges usually happens when doing heavy metal like brass or copper. I very rarely get that when doing aluminum. To prevent that I add a thicker coat to just the edges which includes sand in the drywall mud coating. You will see that in next weeks video where I cast Brass.
AWESOME!!!!
💯💯🔥🔥💯💯🔥🔥👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Don 💯🔥🔥🔥
Nicely done came out great
Thanks bro! I think it worked better horizontally as to my last one that was vertical.
@@HeinrichsMade I agree. When I first started casting that’s all I did was horizontal castings. Thinner objects I’ll do vertically
Nice
🙏 Thank you
This is really interesting. Are you willing to try "lost wax casting" in delft clay instead of plaster. If this works and you can cast parts with undercuts without the burnout cycle and all that other involved stuff, this would be a game changer for me.
I'm all about trying new things and seeing if they work. First I want to say in theory it sounds like it could work, but as I think about it... I don't think it will. You probably would still need to do the burnout with wax. Foam is easy to burn, at least polystyrene is. If you don't do the burnout with wax, I'm sure it will not fill in all the way or make a crappy casting. Lost foam is a game changer though. Check out my most recent video posted yesterday. It really is amazing what you can make with foam.
@@HeinrichsMade I mean with the burnout! Simply turning the whole sand block upside down and burn out the wax with a small torch or in an oven or on a stove etc.
I didn´t mean to cast without removing the wax first. I agree leaving the wax in the cavity and casting will be a huge mess for sure, the wax will most likely ignite as well.
Here is what I have seen what did work and where I got my inspiration from:
- One layer of plaster really thin on a polymer master part and then bury it in green sand and cast. The guy did it without a burnout though. Worked pretty well, the detail was pretty good. That´s why I started wondering if this would work even better with a burn out.
- Polymer master part without plaster in sand, turning the whole sand block and burning out as much polymer as possible. The guy didn´t get all all the polymer out. The part he got out looked clean though.
- Rotary casting a piece of silver in delft clay. Cavity was filled with wax and lost cast in delft clay was performed (2018 read it on a forum with pictures) The casting looked really clean. Here the pressure got rid of the wax.
My goal is to cast complex parts with undercuts without the expensive equipment and material usually used in lost wax casting. The advantage of wax over foam is it has more details and wax like models can be 3D printed pretty easy. One can also use polymer like Polycast with a FDM printer instead.
Here are my proposals, what do you think ?
- Cover wax model thinly in plaster (Regular plaster used as investment does not work but here the plaster model is thin and it will be placed in delft clay to give it stability).
Rotate the mold box and burn out the wax.
The cast as usual.
- Place the wax master directly in delft clay.
Compress the clay really well. Turn the mold box upside down and gently burn out the wax. Cast as usual. My assumption is unlike regular casting sand the delft clay will not absorb the wax, thus leaving a clean cavity and getting rid of the wax.
I don´t have any delft clay or wax on hand, maybe you do, if so you could simply compress some clay and melt wax on it to see if it will absorb or run off.
Thank you for the quick reply btw.
I am not a metal cast specialist in any way, just a regular mechanical engineer, thus the interest for casting and alike, so maybe we can work something out together ? I mean I can supply you with designs for 3D prints etc.
@@sierraecho884 I see what you are saying, Your proposal actually sounds like it might work. If it had a thin layer of plaster the sand wouldn't absorb the wax. When heating slay it also hardens it. So during the burnout it would also harden the clay making it more stable. This happens with my greensand as well. The only thing I can think of is deforming the wax by compressing the clay. However you shouldn't need to compress it that hard.
I would actually like to try this. I have some blocks of wax laying around that I purchased last year. Intending on trying lost wax casting - I never got around to trying lost wax. However, Currently I don't have any delft clay. I will put this on my list of things to try, but not sure how long it will be.
Definitely worth giving it a shot
👍
@@HeinrichsMade This sounds really great. Can´t wait so see your results.
What do you predict will happen and what kind of experiments do you want to run ?
There are a couple of variables to test.
- Master Material wax or polymer? Maybe one is better, cheaper, easier to work with ? Polymer can be easily printed in FDM and is cheap waxlike can also be printed but is more involved and expensive.
- Which type of sand should be used ? Delft clay for sure but also your greensand ? You mentioned that it hardens during burnout.
- With thin plaster coating or without ?
If using plaster I would brush it on to capture all the details and then use plaster and sand to create an outer crust or shell. Kind of like one would do with suspendaslurry.
- What should the burnout be ?
My whole point is, I don´t have a nice burnout oven. I am using a gas camping stove right now so super ultra cheap xD
- How to properly read or compare the results ? A complex cast with many undercuts would be great, after all what´s the point of being able to cast undercuts and casting stuff you can simply sand cast instead ?
@@sierraecho884 I actually asked some friends in a discord group regarding this. Someone was actually trying out today 🤣🤣🤣
We all think that adding a hardshell to the wax would work better than just thin plaster coating. Maybe mixing sand with the plaster for the coating. I've done that with lost foam in the past for copper and brass. It works great.
I'd like to invite you to the metal Casting discord server. discord.gg/nr2mWBHe
Nice vid bro 👍
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏💯💯
Cat untuk melapisi pattern menggunakan cat apa?
It is not paint. It is a mixture of water and drywall mud. 👌
what sand do you use
This is just dry sand I found outside by the beach. I sifted it with a decent sifter. I'm sure if you bought play sand and let it dry. It would work just fine. #1 thing is it has to be dry.