Bob wonderful video and set nice to see all the great engineering done back then. Love your channel very exciting and thanks for the cleaning tips too in the beginning found that very helpful.
On the subject of the zoom feature, I read that back in the fifties, each manufacturer had their own standard amount of overscan. The cheaper sets had more overscan to coverup the varying width in the display. Consequently, broadcasts had a "safe Zone" in the center of the picture to ensure none of the credits were cut off on either side of the picture. I read on the forum that modern electrolytics characteristics are so close to each other, equalizing resistors on series strung caps are not as important as in the old days, especially if you leave a lot of " head room" on the max voltage. Fun vid as always !
Wow, that power supply is really cooked! So many high power resistors are clustered near that power transformer, adding to the transformer's heat. I would remote as many of those power resistors using the aluminum cased chassis mount resistors from this area. Adding a CL-90 thermistor in series with the power transformer primary would also ease power-up. That 17.8k, 25 watt resistor (R129) is a 1% value, use 18k, 5 or 10% as a replacement. This resistor's purpose is to limit how much the 400V B+ rises between the time the 5U4 powers up and the indirectly heated cathode tubes (which are all the other tubes connected to the +400 volt bus). Putting those electrolytics in series without a resistive voltage divider to ensure proper voltage sharing is a guaranteed failure point. Even if the caps are matched, they still won't share properly because, capacitor leakages are constantly changing.
I'm excited to see you do this set Bob. I did misunderstand the first video apparently, because I was disappointed that I thought you were not going to do so. Man that chassis is going to clean up really nice!
Holy Heat Batman! The underside looks like someone took a blowtorch to it. The cloth wiring must be stiff as all hell. When I restored my Admiral Bakelite R2D2 floor model, I hard wired a computer fan that goes on with the on/off switch on the open underside of the chassis. That TV was pretty crispy when I got it and I wanted to slow down as much future heat damage to the 75 year old, irreplaceable parts as possible.
What was the reason they used a 5y3 and a 5u4 and not both the same either 2 5u4's or 2 5y3's? I never thought to use CLR on the cadmium chassis to clean them up. I always seem to learn something new when watching your videos.
The 5Y3 is powering lower voltage, lower current circuitry. They could have used a 5U4 for both power supplies to reduce the tube type count. By going with a 5Y3 instead of a 5U4, 5 watts less filament power is being used.
It is my suspicion that Bob will be going over the power-supply circuit with a fine-tooth comb, as it looks pretty "baked." I wouldn't touch the bottom of the IF circuits with a ten foot pole, not even any wax caps.
@@bandersentv I did notice the varicon bread slicers. Hopefully, all you'll have to do is lube the shaft and bearings and not have to remove any shorts between the plates. Considering the age of the set, it probably uses the lower frequency IF. Performance of an alignment is likely to be a rather challenging task.
Looking at the chassis in the open, it occurred to me…..it should be named the “Batman tv”. That’s what I thought the first time I seen the front of the chassis where the radio dial is located beneath the bat ears.
Yeah, and I can't help him. I've never worked on a Sony and don't have any parts. I heard about NTE but I've never used them since I work on the really old stuff.
Bob wonderful video and set nice to see all the great engineering done back then. Love your channel very exciting and thanks for the cleaning tips too in the beginning found that very helpful.
On the subject of the zoom feature, I read that back in the fifties, each manufacturer had their own standard amount of overscan. The cheaper sets had more overscan to coverup the varying width in the display. Consequently, broadcasts had a "safe Zone" in the center of the picture to ensure none of the credits were cut off on either side of the picture. I read on the forum that modern electrolytics characteristics are so close to each other, equalizing resistors on series strung caps are not as important as in the old days, especially if you leave a lot of " head room" on the max voltage. Fun vid as always !
I'm so proud of you for taking on this monumental project, Bob! You da man!
the underside of the chassis of your tv/radio is baked, BaKeD, **BAKED!!**
This must be the set that provided inspiration for Earl "Madman" Muntz.
With ease he could cut the component count by half of more.
I'm feeling a little overwhelmed by all this and I'm 1,500 miles away.
Awesome, different set! Cannot wait to help on it come spring.
Wow, that power supply is really cooked! So many high power resistors are clustered near that power transformer, adding to the transformer's heat. I would remote as many of those power resistors using the aluminum cased chassis mount resistors from this area. Adding a CL-90 thermistor in series with the power transformer primary would also ease power-up. That 17.8k, 25 watt resistor (R129) is a 1% value, use 18k, 5 or 10% as a replacement. This resistor's purpose is to limit how much the 400V B+ rises between the time the 5U4 powers up and the indirectly heated cathode tubes (which are all the other tubes connected to the +400 volt bus).
Putting those electrolytics in series without a resistive voltage divider to ensure proper voltage sharing is a guaranteed failure point. Even if the caps are matched, they still won't share properly because, capacitor leakages are constantly changing.
Thanks for ❤
I'm excited to see you do this set Bob. I did misunderstand the first video apparently, because I was disappointed that I thought you were not going to do so. Man that chassis is going to clean up really nice!
Holy Heat Batman! The underside looks like someone took a blowtorch to it. The cloth wiring must be stiff as all hell. When I restored my Admiral Bakelite R2D2 floor model, I hard wired a computer fan that goes on with the on/off switch on the open underside of the chassis. That TV was pretty crispy when I got it and I wanted to slow down as much future heat damage to the 75 year old, irreplaceable parts as possible.
Solar brand caps as well as Garod I believe were both made in New York, which would make sense that there would be Solar caps in it.
That chassis looks like my Garod TV chassis. But mine is a tabletop.
Yes, they used it in all their models
Hi. You should have ventilation if hydrogen sulfide is about; it’s toxic. 😢
Wow, you've got your work cut out for you there, Bob. Great engineering work though. It should have a nice stable image when finished.
I bet there are not a lot of these sets laying around !
What was the reason they used a 5y3 and a 5u4 and not both the same either 2 5u4's or 2 5y3's?
I never thought to use CLR on the cadmium chassis to clean them up. I always seem to learn something new when watching your videos.
The 5Y3 is powering lower voltage, lower current circuitry. They could have used a 5U4 for both power supplies to reduce the tube type count. By going with a 5Y3 instead of a 5U4, 5 watts less filament power is being used.
@@billharris6886Ahh! I missed that when i looked at the tube data sheets. Thanks.
It is my suspicion that Bob will be going over the power-supply circuit with a fine-tooth comb, as it looks pretty "baked." I wouldn't touch the bottom of the IF circuits with a ten foot pole, not even any wax caps.
Yes, that's the plan. Did you notice the tuner is all variable capacitors? Sort of the capacitor version of the Malloy inductuner.
@@bandersentv I did notice the varicon bread slicers. Hopefully, all you'll have to do is lube the shaft and bearings and not have to remove any shorts between the plates. Considering the age of the set, it probably uses the lower frequency IF. Performance of an alignment is likely to be a rather challenging task.
Bob, did you do a part 1 of this TV? Or did you mis-label the part of this TV to part 2, when you meant to type **PART 1**?
First first part was published a week ago and it titled "Garod 15TZ6 "The Sherman" adventure begins. It's Telerific!"
@bandersentv okay, thank you for the quick response.
Looking at the chassis in the open, it occurred to me…..it should be named the “Batman tv”. That’s what I thought the first time I seen the front of the chassis where the radio dial is located beneath the bat ears.
Hey, where can I pick up some of these adapter caps?
adapt-a-cap.com
That chassis was big boffo bux. Just LOOK at it!
Shango Dan needs a Sony flyback !! Are you aware about NTE going under ?
Yeah, and I can't help him. I've never worked on a Sony and don't have any parts. I heard about NTE but I've never used them since I work on the really old stuff.
Dog sounds angry.
They are good guard dogs. Very friendly but scary loud bark.
I call those "hair-trigger dogs"; they automatically bark if they hear any sound they can't immediately identify.