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Actually this is amazing for me. I'm retraining from a different industry and while I understand quite a bit I don't have the on the ground hands on experience with how they came along and what's available now to do what. Every time I went to select my first tube tester, it's just...decision paralysis, overwhelming. Thank you. I was inspired to go search your channel to see if you had a nice breakdown of curve tracers and what they're for, how to debug with, etc and I saw an older piece of gear being repaired but nothing like your erstwhile ubiquitous Tek 576 that pretty much everyone encountered in tech schools back in the ~90's (some discussion of SonyTek gear might also be interesting because the curve tracers were completely different in feel and form, and the shift seemed rather dramatic/abrupt).
I'm old enough to remember the TV repairman coming to the house to replace a capacitor. And Rabbit Ears. How many people here know what Rabbit Ears are?
I recall the TV repairman who frequented my home to "fix" the receiver, was actually servicing my mum as he was proud to have 11 fingers. It took me decades to figure out what all that meant and the significance of his having to be done and gone before my pop came home. The TV worked well.
My grandfather built a Conar 224 tube tester as part of a correspondence course NRI put out in the 80's after he retired. I now have it. I LOVE using this tube tester! Thanks for sharing.
You remind me of my High School electronics teacher. He' told us "Unfortunately you have to buy the book, but the good thing is you can sell it back as new. We will not open the book, it is good for teaching theory, but you only learn from hands on training" our whole class was nothing but lab work. Was the most fun I had in any highschool class.
A friend of mine gave me a Heathkit IT-17 about 15 years ago. Very useful device! Allied/Knight had a similar one (KG600B), and one of my uncles gave me a very clean one this past summer, that looks to have been scarcely used!
I used to attend many of the McIntosh Amplifier Clinics that would be offered at HiFi/Stereo shops years ago. The McIntosh techs never used a tube tester while repairing McIntosh tube equipment while you watched. They were so experienced they used just: scope, signal gen, distortion analyzer, VTVM & power supply. Seemed to always know which tube to replace by overall performance. Well, testing by substitution too.
I built a RoeTest a while ago - and from that moment on, there is absolutely NOTHING I am missing, regarding tube testing... Of course, it is a computer-based system, but the amount of great engineering that Helmut put in this machine is just amazing. It is NOT a cheap option (I think I payed at least 2k€, only for the components - and it is really a lot of work to build the 20 fully populated boards) - but afterwards you'll own a device, that is simply better than all the other testers added up ;) No matter, if you want to do quick tests, write characteristic curves, perform audio/noise tests, run all parameters manually, automatically print labels that include the most important informations and so on and on and on... Everything is possible. And afaik the database at the moment contains about 23.000 different tubes - and you'll find almost EVERY tube you are searching for, no matter if it's 100 years old 4-pin tubes, completely weirdos e.g. 2HF / 2NF "integrated circuits" or even indicator tubes, stabis etc... Since I have the RoeTest, it became one of the most important measurement devices in my lab!
Well, It looks like I've got another expensive audio related project to undertake. I've found that most testers were lacking in some way where I would have needed multiple to cover the ranges of tubes/tests that I wanted to do. This looks like it will do every tube and every pertinent test in existence. Thanks for mentioning it!
My testers are a SECO model 107 for newer tube types and a military I-177 for the older tubes plus i built the adapter box shown in the manual for the I-177 , hard to find some of the sockets . Both work well but as you have said in the past the best place to test a tube is in the circuit it being used in.
Ive had many testers over the years, but my fav is the Sencore Mighty Mite V. Its just an emissions tester, but excellent at detecting grid leakage. I dont worry about matching output tubes that closely 'cause a guitar amp is not a hifi, and small tube and bias mismatches manifest as increased second order harmonics. Love your channel!
Mr. Carlson, I want to sincerely thank you for giving a dose of reality to the world of tube-testing! So very many have come to think that only the "bestest and mostest" Hickok or TV-7D/U model is the ONLY option to be had. I try to advise folks that even the best tester can never fully replicate the conditions a tube will see in its circuit, so no tester can be fully accurate - many tubes that test 'bad' still do a fine job, as they are not required to deliver their utmost performance per circuit design. I have several testers, but keep finding myself going back to an EICO 666, with the attachment for compactrons and nuvistors. A benefit - its manual contains instructions on how to make new settings for unlisted tubes. Just have to be careful for the listings that will literally test a tube to death. Thanks again,
I'm not entirely convinced about the description of the "English" control, not that I'm cynical or anything!!! I was hoping you'd demonstrate using the 'toob' testers. Some very elegant looking designs there.
The Stark tester uses the classic patented Hickok circuit, under license; Like many Hickoks, it gives you the choice of reading on the basic good-bad scale which requires setting the english control as noted in the setup info; or you can read the actual transconuctance/gain numerically, in micromhos.
About the B&K Dyna-Jet 707 tester, there is an easy modification on socket #24 to use it for 12AX7 tests ! Just read this: It's well documented that these and a few other B&K models are barely adequate for testing 12AX7, 5751, etc due to excessive grid voltage input that has the tube almost in cutoff(22 or better is considered good reading)... Well there is a quick and easy mod that can be performed using socket #24 that usually tests 9 pin TV HV rectifiers(like most will miss that function)... This socket as factory wired has only heater connections, all other pins are unused so it's just a matter of grounding pins 3 & 8, connecting pins 1 & 6 to same pins on socket #8 and connecting pins 2 & 7 to pin #1 on socket #6(low bias input)... Now test as prior using socket 24 but use the 6AV6/12AV6 load setting of 91 and presto, your 12AX7 will read like as it should(assuming it's good of course)...
Thanks for another great video. I had access to a Hickok 539? tester in the mid 1980's and a storage closet full of NOS tubes. I spent many lunch hours just weeding out the good from the bad ones.
You were weeding out bad NOS tubes? I wouldn't expect many NOS tubes to be bad. Sometimes tubes can still perform satisfactorily even if a tube tester says they're bad (and for one of the testers featured here, Mr. Carlson even said for certain tubes the "replace" reading isn't accurate, you have to go by the number scale). I'm wondering if you weeded out tubes that actually would have worked.
@@Tysman909 I agree. Other than mechanical damage due to mishandling, the only way age may hurt a tube is if it goes to air. You can tell that just by looking at the getter. Otherwise, a tube is just metal elements in a vacuum. They're not going to corrode or fail while they're just sitting in there not exposed to air or moisture. NOS tubes should last almost forever. They do wear out from use, but not from storage. I wouldn't go through NOS tubes and weed them out just based on what a tester says.
I just recently just watch this video and was impressed on how you went over them all completely. I have a Heath-kit model TC-2 tube checker and a Hickok model 534B Dynamic Mutual conductance tester made in 1947. It has tested many transmitting tubes. the heath-kit dose most of the normal receiver tubes. My best is a tube substitution manual, I make tube socket adapter with it. Very Good show.
Nice collection, Mr. C! I have the same Heathkit tester, a Hickok 600A, and a Jackson 648R. I’ve noticed I reach for the Jackson every time. Just so easy to set up, use, and get repeatable results. I’m still going to hang onto the others, though.
I have an RCA tube tester that uses index cards to select the tube you want to test. Each card is for a particular tube. You insert the card in the slot and test the tube.
Quite comfortable using my Heathkit TC-2 which is the model made before your IT-17. I restore tube radios from 1935 to 1966 and can check 99% of the tubes used then. I restored it and works great. The most recent roll chart for it is available online to look some more modern tubes up that my rollchart doesn't have. Love your collection Paul.
Paul: I own a Precision 910 "Electronometer" tube tester and it's built like a tank! Gorgeous wood case, too. I believe it may be a mutual-conductance tester but not positive about that. I also have a B&K tube tester 707, which I enjoy for its ease of use. I really enjoyed this survey of vintage tube-testers!
I would think with this age of this equipment is which one do you have to recap and re-resistor and clean up all the switches. Or which one works right now when you need it!
Paul, very nice review of different tube testers. First time I ever heard of an English control on a tube tester, found out it adjusts the bridge sensitivity so transconductance readings don't off the meter scale. I have 3 very nice tube testers, a Heathkit TT-1 transconductance tester, a Jackson 648 Dynamic plate conductance tester and a Precision 612 emission tester (with home made adapter box for newer tubes). Between the three, I can test just about all tubes used in old to newer radios and TVs, etc.
Good video on your collection of testers. My to go tester is a Canadian Marconi MU-101 . This is an updated version of the Stark 9-66 . Uses silicon diodes instead of the 83 and 5Y3 tubes for rectifiers and nuvister and compactron sockets . Also, have a 9-66 ad well. Aslso have an AVO VCM 163 and Mk3 characteristic testers . These are great testers , need the manual to refer to its operation once and awhile.Great for quick comparison for dual triode tubes , one switch . Other testers , a BK 747 , good go- no go tester , and a Canadian Military TV-7C/U. One is not enough !
The Heath testers with all of the socket types are very convenient and versatile, plus they do a decent job. I am thrilled to own a Hickok 752A, but for speedy tests my EMC 213 comes in handy.
Very cool, thank you for the Tips. iI would recommend the Triplett 3444-a Tube tester. its the one I own and use. There are several plate and screen voltages available and this tester can measure plate current as well as transconductance.
a precise 111 is super accurate as hickok ks 15750-l1 is that tests in DC signal which the 539c tests in AC. The top of line RCA WT-100A tests tube under real voltages over 500 plus volts and runs proper signal to simulate in circuit. My hickok 752 is perfect and has the ca-5 adapter so can test every tube and can use same adaptor on my hickok 600 so best of both worlds
@@goodun2974 yah but if have older models adapter cheaper then another tester. And can use it on both my testers so very handy can test new tubes. I also modified switches to lower them Enoch so adapter fit in slot in case
Great video, spectacular review! I have had tube testers since about 1980,_and have used them since the early 1970s while in high school. Like many of a certain age, I went with my dad to the store to use the worn out "U Test Em" units available then, LOL. I think i currently have 7 including a Heathkit, B and K model 700 transconductance tester, and a B and K emissions and grid leak tester. I love them all for various reasons. Again,your review is excellent,especially for those who don't have a lot of experience.
My favorite tube tester is the Heath TT-1A. The "A" version comes with extra sockets and setting switches in the lid. With this version you get almost complete coverage of every tube socket ever used, plus it will check for grid emission, which few testers will do. Grid emission is seldom a problem, but occasionally I have discovered tubes with grid emission that were causing problems. Everything else checked out good, but the grid emission was the problem. The chart instructions give directions on how to convert the meter readings to actual MHO numbers, but this depends on being accurately calibrated, which depended on having a special tube which Heath supplied if you bought this as a kit. If there's a way to do an accurate calibration without that tube, I'd love to know how to do it. There's also room in the lid for extra sockets, so I have added a Magnoval socket for testing those tubes without needing an adaptor or damaging the Novar socket. The weak points on the TT-1 are the knobs. The do not have metal inserts, so they eventually crack. I've replaced all of mine with good knobs with metal shaft inserts. I'd be interested in knowing which other tube testers test for grid emission, and also if the Heath TT-1A was based on some other maker's design, as Heath commonly did.
Nice line up of tube testers. Yes, you can't stop at just one tester, and I find each tester has strengths and weaknesses. Have a few of them and compare answers even if they are un-calibrated.
i have a different Weston tube tester. My model has a few more toggle switches, a noise test connection, a separate toggle switch to test for gas, and 2 small sockets at the top that looks like transistor sockets. Overall, the appearance is similar. Thank you for this video.
I've got a Radio City Products Do-All 808AA Tube Tester, VTVM, CRT Rejuvenater that test tubes I've never heard of and has sockets even my long lost Hicock didn't have. It tests each section individually and is fiddly to use. I don't have a manual, so many features are not useable to me. But for testing audio and RF tubes from 50's milsurp radios, it is fantastic. And the VTVM is icing on the cake.
I bought a nice Heathkit tester from a ham earlier this year (YES! THE IT-17, with manual!), although paid above the "swap meet" price for it. I believe he was the original owner. A shelf-queen under plastic for the time being. I'll be referring to your series when I eventually "get to it" for actual use.
I love my Jackson 648 tester, repeatable results and tests almost every valve under the sun almost. 🙂 For a long time I used a Superior TV-11 emmisions tester and it was great until I got my Jackson, Mercury testers are also worth a mention as well I think.
I remember taking the odd tube out of a TV and testing it on a tall sort of kiosk stand up tube tester in a local Radio Shack store back in the day. In Electronics class we had a B&K tube tester. Nothing like the ones you showed. It was wide and not very deep from front to back. IIRC, there was a manual in the lid. It looked similar to the pictures Ive seen of a 747 but I'm not sure if that was the actual model I had used.
This video reminded me I need to learn more about my grandfather's tube tester. I've had it sitting in the closet for years, I looked it over and it's clearly in need of a proper restoration which is currently beyond my skill set. It is a Supreme Model 89 Delux and even has the packing list dated 1935 and "Technical Data". Unfortunately many of the items on the packing list are missing (test leads mostly) as is the adapter my grandfather made for it. I have some minimal instructions for the adapter, but they seem to assume you know what it is. I expect he probably created it with the intent to sell them, although it's possible it was just for his work in an airline instrument shop.
Hi Paul, thanks for showing your collection of tube testers. You may find this interesting but, with all the jobs I have had since the early 1970's that involved repair of tube equipment, none ever used a tube tester, including the military. Whether a tube was good or bad, was determined by its performance in the circuit. Even though I have been restoring antique radios since the early 1970's, I have never owned one. However, with all the tubes I have accumulated over the years, I thought it would be a good idea to own one, so bought an old Jackson 648 a few years ago. This tests 1920's - 1950's consumer electronics tubes. The tester does not have the mutual-conductance, which I believe was patented at the time (mid 1950's). I was surprised how well this tester works. It actually runs the tube under test at full rated power. This tester has enabled me to weed out the bad tubes in my stock, which is great!
Paul a suggestion, you have mentioned in this and previous videos about tubes and milky white look and to not test these because they have gone to air. I would like to see a assortment of tubes showing good getter indicators proceeding to the worst tube with milky white looks to them, i dont want to burn up a transformer by trying to use a tube that shouldn't be used.
My 1st tube tester, when i was 7 around 1969 found one in the trash on my block, used it to play space ship commander ! Old sci fi movies used panels with meters, buttons, knobs and switches as future computers and advanced controls. Just no flashing lights !
Hi Paul this was a very interesting video, I enjoyed it immensely, it would be nice if a video of all of these in operation one against the other with a good new tube and a low gain or faulty one .
Glad to see the Conar 224 with the universal test socket included. The 221 also has that feature and is still the most versatile tube tester I've ever used. I would give the following warning however. Do not use it to test 35W4, 35Z5 rectifiers ! The 221, at least, will blow the cathode fuse link in those tubes immediately upon power being applied. Also, don't attempt test of 23Z9 compactrons. Due to the numerous filament tap arrangements (apparently never standardized) in those tubes, chances are the filament will blow upon power up. Conar even replaced the 23Z9 test information with a note warning of this in their updated test data. Mine still has it listed on the original roll chart data so beware. The only other tubes I was unable to test with the 221 were the miniature 10 pin 6/11AF9s since that socket was not provided. Still, overall it's been the most universal tube tester I've ever used. Between the original roll chart and the newest updated book, it covers pretty much everything from 1930's through to the end of the tube era in televisions 📺. As emission / leakage / short testers go, Conar was extremely thorough and overall accuracy of results, in my personal experience with it, is easily 80+%. I refuse to give any tube tester a better dependability review than that (even if they earn it). I don't know what the problem with it's testing the two mentioned rectifiers is. It's tested virtually all other rectifier types very well. In fact, it tests virtually every type of tube it has the socket and data for very well. I just avoid plugging the three mentioned here into tube testers anymore. I rely on in-circuit tests for those in particular. That's still the best test of any tubes condition. Still, tube testers are wonderful for evaluating stock. I've spent many hours using them. Great video as always.
FYI - the military issue TV-7A/U, TV-7B/U, and TV-7D/U mutual conductance tube testers will test more different tubes than any other tester ever made. Considerably more different tubes than any of the testers you featured.
I built a uTracer3+ last year - works fine and gives nice graphs on the computer. Not classic or classy but functional. Would have loved a proper old school tester but they were quite rare here in Denmark and if they are for sale, they are very expensive. Plus they don’t have my little friends holding the valve base pin wires away from each other - my little friends are LEGO minifigs and their little hands and positionable arms are great for keeping wires spaced apart.
Many years ago, when my dad worked for Pacific Telephone here in California, he gave me a Western Electric KS-15560-L2 tube tester, built by Hickock. (I do not know which consumer-side model this corresponds to, though). It has 3 meters on it, one for Bias Volts, one for AC line voltage, and the main Micromhos meter. Also, the Dial labeled "English" on the Stark and Hickock examples shown in the video is just labeled 'Shunt'. It has come in handy for testing 6550 and 7591 amplifier tubes. I am missing some of the accessories, like any of the optional self bias resistors.
Bots on the attack again, I report but YT no help🤨 Very interesting collection Mr C. We had a business here called Electronic Parts Company(been closed for many, many years)that had 5 or 6 tube testers in the store. I ask the owner/salesman why so many and he said they all tested different tubes differently..oh, I get it now. It was a great store, sad it closed down. Thanks for the video and explanations. Enjoy.
My first TV (of my own) was a huge Zenith piece of furniture thing. Had a bunch of tubes, barely worked. I tore that thing to pieces! I was 8, so 1988. And I never did get it working. It did help start my interest in electronics though!
Well if I need a a few vacuum tubes checked it is easy, package very carefully, then ship to Mr. Carlson’s Lab. My gosh Paul you have electronics lab that NASA would use. Of course from solid state discrete devices to IC Pretty sure you have that snazzy test gear too. I have to congratulate you Paul for being a very honest businessman and a giving person to teaches . Nice watch someone who is very comfortable yet so down to earth. So rare today. Happy Thanksgiving if you celebrate that USA holiday in Canada. Cheers Kristy
I actually have three tube testers. I got a Heathkit emission tester first. Then I got a mil surp TV-7 type. Last I got a huge Hickok someone had lying around and wanted rid of for only 50 bucks. The thing is they do not all test the same things, but they overlap. The Heath tests more modern tubes like compactrons and types that came out later. The dynamic testers give a fuller test of tube performance for their applicable types. Some old and obscure testers may be difficult or impossible to get setting charts for if they are missing. If the data is missing, they might be no bargain. Testers that have been used alot can get loose sockets that cause flaky tests and some testers come with extenders that protect the sockets from wear and tear. Usually the meter movement itself is the most fragile part and should be considered irreplaceable in most cases if bad.
If a tube test lacks a chart, Google the brand, and sometimes the chart might be posted. I own a Triplet tube tester and I have the chart. I found the chart that tests the earlier tubes. It was given to me and I use it extensively.
Precision Apparatus, or Pacotronics, became the B&K (Ban & Korn) Precision testers, which is why Precision was tacked onto the B&K name. That merger took place under the Dynascan umbrella in 1967. I have one of the last Precision testers, a 10-60, which would also test early transistors. I use it along with a B&K 707, where the 10-60 will test the older tubes.
I used a TV-7 back in the 1960s when I was in the US military. Later I bought a surplus one when I got out of the military. Finally sold it in the early 1980s. If I remember correctly the test booklet was dated 1962. I did make an adapter for those new fangled Nuvistors When I was a kid emission testers were common in drugstores. The first time I tried to use it was very confused because the sockets were just numbered that did not match any of the tubes I had. Not sure when I figured out there was a chart on the back that told which socket to use..
It's interesting to see the American tube testers, with at times fancy scrollers or card sheets in the box, compared to the European tube testers such as the ones from Taylor where you had all of that in a manual that would be updated over time as new tubes were released.
Recently picked up a Palec VCT3 Emission Tester. Gave it a thrashing going through several cartons of tube from 43s - 807s - EL36s, 12AXs, etc. Seems to work ok, but I suspect the 7 & 9 pin sockets maybe a bit sloppy. Gave the switches a few good squirts of contact cleaner. Got the basic documentation.
Nice topic! I recently got an Eico 666 tester in horrible condition cosmetically and it also had a blown meter. Bummer. However, it turns out that a Heathkit VTVM uses a meter about the same size and with the correct ballistics! I scanned the faceplate of the Eico meter and slipped it behind a Heathkit meter I got from a junk IG-18 VTVM. A little cleaning, a few replaced resistors and a few new electrolytic caps and it calibrated right up. I service tube guitar amps and have always wanted to be able to check tubes. Given the cost of tube testers these days, Im very glad it came back to life for very little money. If ya got an Eico 666/667 with a bum meter, find a beat up Heathkit VTVM and get it back into service! :)
I worked at Radio Shack early 1970's, and the most dreaded sight was a customer walking in with a shopping bag full of tubes (every one in their color TV) 10 or 15 minutes before closing time. Many folks had problems with the instructions to use the SELF SERVICE tube tester, so we had to "hold their hand".
You state that you need to build an adapter to test "modern" tubes on an older tester. Please remember, that companies, for example Hickok, often sold those adapters for their testers. I have the Hickok CA-5 adapter that allows testing tubes, like Compactron's, on my old 533A. I'm sure you know this, but just in case a new owner (like I was) doesn't know these factory adapters can still be found (along with the settings needed to use them). Great video, BTW.
At work I use an AVO CT160, which I understand is a bit of a strange one. No idea where my boss got it but he is a notorious hoarder. I find it pretty enjoyable to use with the little "telephone" style dial adjusting the wheatstone bridge current measurement. Also the pin selectors use actual identifiers (C, G, H+/- etc) instead of numbers, so I tend to just set it myself instead of flipping through a book. Small details, but makes it feel more like a professional level tool. Don't look up the price though.
@@ebones6957 You mean PROOcess? I worked with a fellow from Canada, and he did his darnedest to say project. But sometimes it came out PROject. I quickly added Eh? at the end of his sentence. We heard Eh, allot living in NE Washington State. We were not that far from the border. 7RY
I have a Hickok 799 “mustang” tester and need the CA-99 adapter plate to be able to test more variety of the radio tubes. It’s similar to the B&K one you have.
I don't need a tube tester, i got one for free, a few years ago. It released the magic smoke,nothing bad,a tesistor burnt out, due to a shorted tube, being tested too long. I replaced the resistor with a New one, and replaced all old electrolytic capacitors with New ones. Works perfect. It's a rpg70, made in gdr(DDR) in the 1970s, complete with owners manual and schematic. Very useful Instrument.
Heathkit tt1 and it's lid adaptor is in my opinion the best outside of the Hickok lab machine. Completely able to calibrate, adaptors to very current tubes.
I have a Precision 10-40. It always draws attention, bigger than the 620. The list of tubes on the wheel has to be near 500 tubes plus pages of extras. In the manual, it explains how to test picture tubes. It doesn't test compactron tubes, but i made an adapter and have a few with the settings worked out to test them. I need to install a noise test mod that's something i never used before.
To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
Actually this is amazing for me. I'm retraining from a different industry and while I understand quite a bit I don't have the on the ground hands on experience with how they came along and what's available now to do what. Every time I went to select my first tube tester, it's just...decision paralysis, overwhelming. Thank you.
I was inspired to go search your channel to see if you had a nice breakdown of curve tracers and what they're for, how to debug with, etc and I saw an older piece of gear being repaired but nothing like your erstwhile ubiquitous Tek 576 that pretty much everyone encountered in tech schools back in the ~90's (some discussion of SonyTek gear might also be interesting because the curve tracers were completely different in feel and form, and the shift seemed rather dramatic/abrupt).
I'm old enough to remember the TV repairman coming to the house to replace a capacitor. And Rabbit Ears. How many people here know what Rabbit Ears are?
I’m using an antenna again now. First time since ‘80
Rabbit ears, how about steel wool at the top of the rabbit ears.
Coat hangers topped with aluminium foil, and the tube tester at, where I lived, the K&B Drug store. Good times!
I recall the TV repairman who frequented my home to "fix" the receiver, was actually servicing my mum as he was proud to have 11 fingers. It took me decades to figure out what all that meant and the significance of his having to be done and gone before my pop came home. The TV worked well.
I remember the Rabbit Ears AND the Coat Hanger.
My grandfather built a Conar 224 tube tester as part of a correspondence course NRI put out in the 80's after he retired. I now have it. I LOVE using this tube tester! Thanks for sharing.
i got dad's not sure of the model. also his signal generator
The "English" control comment was the best!!
It also becomes a Valve Tester at 100% english.
@@misterkite Oy !!!
@@misterkite With anodes (not plates).
turn it all the way down it goes to french and gives up!
@@misterkite There is an additional switch for intake or exhaust.
You remind me of my High School electronics teacher. He' told us "Unfortunately you have to buy the book, but the good thing is you can sell it back as new. We will not open the book, it is good for teaching theory, but you only learn from hands on training" our whole class was nothing but lab work. Was the most fun I had in any highschool class.
I remember the repair man coming to fix our Tv. In house. I loved the smell of the solder. All I wanted to do after that was repair electronics. 😊
A friend of mine gave me a Heathkit IT-17 about 15 years ago. Very useful device! Allied/Knight had a similar one (KG600B), and one of my uncles gave me a very clean one this past summer, that looks to have been scarcely used!
I used to attend many of the McIntosh Amplifier Clinics that would be offered at HiFi/Stereo shops years ago. The McIntosh techs never used a tube tester while repairing McIntosh tube equipment while you watched. They were so experienced they used just: scope, signal gen, distortion analyzer, VTVM & power supply. Seemed to always know which tube to replace by overall performance. Well, testing by substitution too.
Solder joke was way underrated hahah loved it.
Nostalgia. The sixties. I remember Dad taking little me to Ace Hardware, in a Volkswagen Bug, to test tubes out of the TV that didn't work.
I remember Sears having a tube tester back in the day.
I own the Heathkit TT-1 with the TT1-A attachment for Compactrons. Phenomenal bit of kit.
Loved the “solder” reference for the English knob🤣
Thanks for the tour & humor! Bloody good job, chap!
I built a RoeTest a while ago - and from that moment on, there is absolutely NOTHING I am missing, regarding tube testing...
Of course, it is a computer-based system, but the amount of great engineering that Helmut put in this machine is just amazing. It is NOT a cheap option (I think I payed at least 2k€, only for the components - and it is really a lot of work to build the 20 fully populated boards) - but afterwards you'll own a device, that is simply better than all the other testers added up ;)
No matter, if you want to do quick tests, write characteristic curves, perform audio/noise tests, run all parameters manually, automatically print labels that include the most important informations and so on and on and on... Everything is possible. And afaik the database at the moment contains about 23.000 different tubes - and you'll find almost EVERY tube you are searching for, no matter if it's 100 years old 4-pin tubes, completely weirdos e.g. 2HF / 2NF "integrated circuits" or even indicator tubes, stabis etc...
Since I have the RoeTest, it became one of the most important measurement devices in my lab!
If you hadn't mentioned it I would have - I am currently building one, the boards are almost populated, next step are the mechanics...
Well, It looks like I've got another expensive audio related project to undertake. I've found that most testers were lacking in some way where I would have needed multiple to cover the ranges of tubes/tests that I wanted to do. This looks like it will do every tube and every pertinent test in existence. Thanks for mentioning it!
My testers are a SECO model 107 for newer tube types and a military I-177 for the older tubes plus i built the adapter box shown in the manual for the I-177 , hard to find some of the sockets . Both work well but as you have said in the past the best place to test a tube is in the circuit it being used in.
Mr Carlsons lab your TH-cam videos are awesome my friend
Ive had many testers over the years, but my fav is the Sencore Mighty Mite V. Its just an emissions tester, but excellent at detecting grid leakage. I dont worry about matching output tubes that closely 'cause a guitar amp is not a hifi, and small tube and bias mismatches manifest as increased second order harmonics. Love your channel!
Mr. Carlson, I want to sincerely thank you for giving a dose of reality to the world of tube-testing! So very many have come to think that only the "bestest and mostest" Hickok or TV-7D/U model is the ONLY option to be had. I try to advise folks that even the best tester can never fully replicate the conditions a tube will see in its circuit, so no tester can be fully accurate - many tubes that test 'bad' still do a fine job, as they are not required to deliver their utmost performance per circuit design. I have several testers, but keep finding myself going back to an EICO 666, with the attachment for compactrons and nuvistors. A benefit - its manual contains instructions on how to make new settings for unlisted tubes. Just have to be careful for the listings that will literally test a tube to death. Thanks again,
I remember RadioShack had a big tube testing machine that fascinated me as a kid. It was podium sized.
I'm not entirely convinced about the description of the "English" control, not that I'm cynical or anything!!!
I was hoping you'd demonstrate using the 'toob' testers. Some very elegant looking designs there.
But I did learn today that "soL-der" is English, and "saw-der" is American / Canadian.
@@LakeNipissing No... Solder is Canadian. Soder is American. Just ask Mr. C. LOL! 7RY
The Stark tester uses the classic patented Hickok circuit, under license; Like many Hickoks, it gives you the choice of reading on the basic good-bad scale which requires setting the english control as noted in the setup info; or you can read the actual transconuctance/gain numerically, in micromhos.
About the B&K Dyna-Jet 707 tester, there is an easy modification on socket #24 to use it for 12AX7 tests ! Just read this: It's well documented that these and a few other B&K models are barely adequate for testing 12AX7, 5751, etc due to excessive grid voltage input that has the tube almost in cutoff(22 or better is considered good reading)... Well there is a quick and easy mod that can be performed using socket #24 that usually tests 9 pin TV HV rectifiers(like most will miss that function)... This socket as factory wired has only heater connections, all other pins are unused so it's just a matter of grounding pins 3 & 8, connecting pins 1 & 6 to same pins on socket #8 and connecting pins 2 & 7 to pin #1 on socket #6(low bias input)... Now test as prior using socket 24 but use the 6AV6/12AV6 load setting of 91 and presto, your 12AX7 will read like as it should(assuming it's good of course)...
Wow. This brings back memories. I recall going to the store with my father to test the tubes and replace the bad tubes. Great job. Thank you 😊
Mr Carlsons lab you are good at restoring antique radios and alignment of antique radios my friend
Thanks for another great video. I had access to a Hickok 539? tester in the mid 1980's and a storage closet full of NOS tubes. I spent many lunch hours just weeding out the good from the bad ones.
The 539 is a great tester, but a good restoration project too!
You were weeding out bad NOS tubes? I wouldn't expect many NOS tubes to be bad. Sometimes tubes can still perform satisfactorily even if a tube tester says they're bad (and for one of the testers featured here, Mr. Carlson even said for certain tubes the "replace" reading isn't accurate, you have to go by the number scale). I'm wondering if you weeded out tubes that actually would have worked.
Nos tubes bad only way that can be is if gone to air or broken filament. Other then that tester must be out of spec
@@Tysman909 I agree. Other than mechanical damage due to mishandling, the only way age may hurt a tube is if it goes to air. You can tell that just by looking at the getter. Otherwise, a tube is just metal elements in a vacuum. They're not going to corrode or fail while they're just sitting in there not exposed to air or moisture. NOS tubes should last almost forever. They do wear out from use, but not from storage. I wouldn't go through NOS tubes and weed them out just based on what a tester says.
the sodder and solder bit gave me a giggle. i tend to say 'tube tester' but also 'valve amplifier' so i guess it depends
Mr Carlsons lab your tube testers are awesome my friend
Thank you kindly Greg!
I just recently just watch this video and was impressed on how you went over them all completely. I have a Heath-kit model TC-2 tube checker and a Hickok model 534B Dynamic Mutual conductance tester made in 1947. It has tested many transmitting tubes. the heath-kit dose most of the normal receiver tubes. My best is a tube substitution manual, I make tube socket adapter with it. Very Good show.
💪🏻 Mr. Carlson rules them all 💡⚡
Nice collection, Mr. C! I have the same Heathkit tester, a Hickok 600A, and a Jackson 648R. I’ve noticed I reach for the Jackson every time. Just so easy to set up, use, and get repeatable results. I’m still going to hang onto the others, though.
Knowledge is power, used to work for a electronics company and i still build stuff, havent seen testers like these in years. Thanks for the fun .m.m.
You're very welcome!
I have an RCA tube tester that uses index cards to select the tube you want to test. Each card is for a particular tube. You insert the card in the slot and test the tube.
Quite comfortable using my Heathkit TC-2 which is the model made before your IT-17. I restore tube radios from 1935 to
1966 and can check 99% of the tubes used then. I restored it and works great. The most recent roll chart for it is available online to look some more modern tubes up that my rollchart doesn't have. Love your collection Paul.
Paul: I own a Precision 910 "Electronometer" tube tester and it's built like a tank! Gorgeous wood case, too. I believe it may be a mutual-conductance tester but not positive about that.
I also have a B&K tube tester 707, which I enjoy for its ease of use.
I really enjoyed this survey of vintage tube-testers!
I have a 910, to my understanding it uses both emissions and and mutual conductance on an accepted standard. Have fun
I would think with this age of this equipment is which one do you have to recap and re-resistor and clean up all the switches. Or which one works right now when you need it!
Paul, very nice review of different tube testers. First time I ever heard of an English control on a tube tester, found out it adjusts the bridge sensitivity so transconductance readings don't off the meter scale. I have 3 very nice tube testers, a Heathkit TT-1 transconductance tester, a Jackson 648 Dynamic plate conductance tester and a Precision 612 emission tester (with home made adapter box for newer tubes). Between the three, I can test just about all tubes used in old to newer radios and TVs, etc.
Good video on your collection of testers. My to go tester is a Canadian Marconi MU-101 . This is an updated version of the Stark 9-66 . Uses silicon diodes instead of the 83 and 5Y3 tubes for rectifiers and nuvister and compactron sockets . Also, have a 9-66 ad well. Aslso have an AVO VCM 163 and Mk3 characteristic testers . These are great testers , need the manual to refer to its operation once and awhile.Great for quick comparison for dual triode tubes , one switch . Other testers , a BK 747 , good go- no go tester , and a Canadian Military TV-7C/U. One is not enough !
The Heath testers with all of the socket types are very convenient and versatile, plus they do a decent job.
I am thrilled to own a Hickok 752A, but for speedy tests my EMC 213 comes in handy.
I have some testers from the 1920's. VERY primitive . My go to is a TV7 D/U and a Hickok 600. Between the 2 I can test almost any tube.
Very cool, thank you for the Tips. iI would recommend the Triplett 3444-a Tube tester. its the one I own and use. There are several plate and screen voltages available and this tester can measure plate current as well as transconductance.
Looks/sounds like a nice tube tester. The triplett 630 multimeter is my go-to, beats the Simpson 260 in range, and chunky knob.
The Triplett 3444A can also be found branded "Westmore 501A". Same machine, perhaps a lower price....
a precise 111 is super accurate as hickok ks 15750-l1 is that tests in DC signal which the 539c tests in AC. The top of line RCA WT-100A tests tube under real voltages over 500 plus volts and runs proper signal to simulate in circuit. My hickok 752 is perfect and has the ca-5 adapter so can test every tube and can use same adaptor on my hickok 600 so best of both worlds
@Tysman909 , I have the 752A, which included Novar, Compactron and Nuvistor sockets, so the CA5 isn't needed.
@@goodun2974 yah but if have older models adapter cheaper then another tester. And can use it on both my testers so very handy can test new tubes. I also modified switches to lower them Enoch so adapter fit in slot in case
The Precision 620 is very pretty.
Thanks, Mr Carlson for the information.
Great video, spectacular review! I have had tube testers since about 1980,_and have used them since the early 1970s while in high school. Like many of a certain age, I went with my dad to the store to use the worn out "U Test Em" units available then, LOL. I think i currently have 7 including a Heathkit, B and K model 700 transconductance tester, and a B and K emissions and grid leak tester. I love them all for various reasons. Again,your review is excellent,especially for those who don't have a lot of experience.
My favorite tube tester is the Heath TT-1A. The "A" version comes with extra sockets and setting switches in the lid. With this version you get almost complete coverage of every tube socket ever used, plus it will check for grid emission, which few testers will do. Grid emission is seldom a problem, but occasionally I have discovered tubes with grid emission that were causing problems. Everything else checked out good, but the grid emission was the problem.
The chart instructions give directions on how to convert the meter readings to actual MHO numbers, but this depends on being accurately calibrated, which depended on having a special tube which Heath supplied if you bought this as a kit. If there's a way to do an accurate calibration without that tube, I'd love to know how to do it.
There's also room in the lid for extra sockets, so I have added a Magnoval socket for testing those tubes without needing an adaptor or damaging the Novar socket.
The weak points on the TT-1 are the knobs. The do not have metal inserts, so they eventually crack. I've replaced all of mine with good knobs with metal shaft inserts.
I'd be interested in knowing which other tube testers test for grid emission, and also if the Heath TT-1A was based on some other maker's design, as Heath commonly did.
This is cool to see. I'm working on an eico 667. It must be more modern because it does compactrons.
I love my Jackson 648 Tube Checker. The ability to just push a series of buttons is covenant and super fast..
Great video. I have a TV-7 D/U Military Tube Tester, is that a usable tester? Thanks for sharing.
Nice line up of tube testers. Yes, you can't stop at just one tester, and I find each tester has strengths and weaknesses. Have a few of them and compare answers even if they are un-calibrated.
I’d love a video on how they work and a full assessment of valve and what a tester doesn’t tell you !
Your every videos informative and unique superb. Mr Carlson sir you are fantastic engineer thanks for the sharing this video sir ❤❤😊
Thank you very much!
sawder vs soulder. Funny. Great video, thanks Mister Carlson.
Thanks for watching!
Glad to see this video. I have b&k 600, 650, 700, 707, 747b. Nothing to test rectifier 83 though.
i have a different Weston tube tester. My model has a few more toggle switches, a noise test connection, a separate toggle switch to test for gas, and 2 small sockets at the top that looks like transistor sockets. Overall, the appearance is similar. Thank you for this video.
I've got a Radio City Products Do-All 808AA Tube Tester, VTVM, CRT Rejuvenater that test tubes I've never heard of and has sockets even my long lost Hicock didn't have. It tests each section individually and is fiddly to use. I don't have a manual, so many features are not useable to me. But for testing audio and RF tubes from 50's milsurp radios, it is fantastic. And the VTVM is icing on the cake.
I bought a nice Heathkit tester from a ham earlier this year (YES! THE IT-17, with manual!), although paid above the "swap meet" price for it. I believe he was the original owner. A shelf-queen under plastic for the time being. I'll be referring to your series when I eventually "get to it" for actual use.
Thank you, Mr Carlson. As always, another great and informative video.
You are very welcome
I love my Jackson 648 tester, repeatable results and tests almost every valve under the sun almost. 🙂 For a long time I used a Superior TV-11 emmisions tester and it was great until I got my Jackson, Mercury testers are also worth a mention as well I think.
I remember taking the odd tube out of a TV and testing it on a tall sort of kiosk stand up tube tester in a local Radio Shack store back in the day. In Electronics class we had a B&K tube tester. Nothing like the ones you showed. It was wide and not very deep from front to back. IIRC, there was a manual in the lid. It looked similar to the pictures Ive seen of a 747 but I'm not sure if that was the actual model I had used.
This video reminded me I need to learn more about my grandfather's tube tester. I've had it sitting in the closet for years, I looked it over and it's clearly in need of a proper restoration which is currently beyond my skill set. It is a Supreme Model 89 Delux and even has the packing list dated 1935 and "Technical Data". Unfortunately many of the items on the packing list are missing (test leads mostly) as is the adapter my grandfather made for it. I have some minimal instructions for the adapter, but they seem to assume you know what it is. I expect he probably created it with the intent to sell them, although it's possible it was just for his work in an airline instrument shop.
Hi Paul, thanks for showing your collection of tube testers. You may find this interesting but, with all the jobs I have had since the early 1970's that involved repair of tube equipment, none ever used a tube tester, including the military. Whether a tube was good or bad, was determined by its performance in the circuit. Even though I have been restoring antique radios since the early 1970's, I have never owned one. However, with all the tubes I have accumulated over the years, I thought it would be a good idea to own one, so bought an old Jackson 648 a few years ago. This tests 1920's - 1950's consumer electronics tubes. The tester does not have the mutual-conductance, which I believe was patented at the time (mid 1950's). I was surprised how well this tester works. It actually runs the tube under test at full rated power. This tester has enabled me to weed out the bad tubes in my stock, which is great!
Paul a suggestion, you have mentioned in this and previous videos about tubes and milky white look and to not test these because they have gone to air. I would like to see a assortment of tubes showing good getter indicators proceeding to the worst tube with milky white looks to them, i dont want to burn up a transformer by trying to use a tube that shouldn't be used.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try to show that in a future video!
My 1st tube tester, when i was 7 around 1969 found one in the trash on my block, used it to play space ship commander ! Old sci fi movies used panels with meters, buttons, knobs and switches as future computers and advanced controls. Just no flashing lights !
I have a TV-10 military tube tester in my collection....
Hi Paul this was a very interesting video, I enjoyed it immensely, it would be nice if a video of all of these in operation one against the other with a good new tube and a low gain or faulty one .
Glad to see the Conar 224 with the universal test socket included. The 221 also has that feature and is still the most versatile tube tester I've ever used. I would give the following warning however. Do not use it to test 35W4, 35Z5 rectifiers ! The 221, at least, will blow the cathode fuse link in those tubes immediately upon power being applied. Also, don't attempt test of 23Z9 compactrons. Due to the numerous filament tap arrangements (apparently never standardized) in those tubes, chances are the filament will blow upon power up. Conar even replaced the 23Z9 test information with a note warning of this in their updated test data. Mine still has it listed on the original roll chart data so beware. The only other tubes I was unable to test with the 221 were the miniature 10 pin 6/11AF9s since that socket was not provided. Still, overall it's been the most universal tube tester I've ever used. Between the original roll chart and the newest updated book, it covers pretty much everything from 1930's through to the end of the tube era in televisions 📺. As emission / leakage / short testers go, Conar was extremely thorough and overall accuracy of results, in my personal experience with it, is easily 80+%. I refuse to give any tube tester a better dependability review than that (even if they earn it). I don't know what the problem with it's testing the two mentioned rectifiers is. It's tested virtually all other rectifier types very well. In fact, it tests virtually every type of tube it has the socket and data for very well. I just avoid plugging the three mentioned here into tube testers anymore. I rely on in-circuit tests for those in particular. That's still the best test of any tubes condition. Still, tube testers are wonderful for evaluating stock. I've spent many hours using them. Great video as always.
It would have been a good idea to try the same vacuum tube in each of the testers and see how each one works. Thanks!
FYI - the military issue TV-7A/U, TV-7B/U, and TV-7D/U mutual conductance tube testers will test more different tubes than any other tester ever made. Considerably more different tubes than any of the testers you featured.
I have a Hickok 539 C which I likexa lot
I have the same Weston, and the engineer's delight, the AVO 163. The Weston is easier to setup for basic quality evaluation, and gets the most use.
I built a uTracer3+ last year - works fine and gives nice graphs on the computer. Not classic or classy but functional. Would have loved a proper old school tester but they were quite rare here in Denmark and if they are for sale, they are very expensive. Plus they don’t have my little friends holding the valve base pin wires away from each other - my little friends are LEGO minifigs and their little hands and positionable arms are great for keeping wires spaced apart.
Dad had 2 tube testers at home, the second from the right. A larger GE/Dyna Jet and a B&K/Sylvania smaller one.
Many years ago, when my dad worked for Pacific Telephone here in California, he gave me a Western Electric KS-15560-L2 tube tester, built by Hickock. (I do not know which consumer-side model this corresponds to, though). It has 3 meters on it, one for Bias Volts, one for AC line voltage, and the main Micromhos meter. Also, the Dial labeled "English" on the Stark and Hickock examples shown in the video is just labeled 'Shunt'. It has come in handy for testing 6550 and 7591 amplifier tubes. I am missing some of the accessories, like any of the optional self bias resistors.
It may have already happened and I missed it but I would love to see your take on a curve tracer tutorial.
Thanks. Looking forward to the next group.
Bots on the attack again, I report but YT no help🤨 Very interesting collection Mr C. We had a business here called Electronic Parts Company(been closed for many, many years)that had 5 or 6 tube testers in the store. I ask the owner/salesman why so many and he said they all tested different tubes differently..oh, I get it now. It was a great store, sad it closed down. Thanks for the video and explanations. Enjoy.
My first TV (of my own) was a huge Zenith piece of furniture thing. Had a bunch of tubes, barely worked. I tore that thing to pieces!
I was 8, so 1988. And I never did get it working.
It did help start my interest in electronics though!
Well if I need a a few vacuum tubes checked it is easy, package very carefully, then ship to Mr. Carlson’s Lab.
My gosh Paul you have electronics lab that NASA would use. Of course from solid state discrete devices to IC
Pretty sure you have that snazzy test gear too. I have to congratulate you Paul for being a very honest businessman and a giving person to teaches . Nice watch someone who is very comfortable yet so down to earth. So rare today.
Happy Thanksgiving if you celebrate that USA holiday in Canada.
Cheers
Kristy
Thank you for the kind words, Kristy!
I actually have three tube testers. I got a Heathkit emission tester first. Then I got a mil surp TV-7 type. Last I got a huge Hickok someone had lying around and wanted rid of for only 50 bucks. The thing is they do not all test the same things, but they overlap. The Heath tests more modern tubes like compactrons and types that came out later. The dynamic testers give a fuller test of tube performance for their applicable types. Some old and obscure testers may be difficult or impossible to get setting charts for if they are missing. If the data is missing, they might be no bargain. Testers that have been used alot can get loose sockets that cause flaky tests and some testers come with extenders that protect the sockets from wear and tear. Usually the meter movement itself is the most fragile part and should be considered irreplaceable in most cases if bad.
If a tube test lacks a chart, Google the brand, and sometimes the chart might be posted. I own a Triplet tube tester and I have the chart. I found the chart that tests the earlier tubes. It was given to me and I use it extensively.
Precision Apparatus, or Pacotronics, became the B&K (Ban & Korn) Precision testers, which is why Precision was tacked onto the B&K name. That merger took place under the Dynascan umbrella in 1967.
I have one of the last Precision testers, a 10-60, which would also test early transistors. I use it along with a B&K 707, where the 10-60 will test the older tubes.
I used a TV-7 back in the 1960s when I was in the US military. Later I bought a surplus one when I got out of the military. Finally sold it in the early 1980s. If I remember correctly the test booklet was dated 1962. I did make an adapter for those new fangled Nuvistors
When I was a kid emission testers were common in drugstores. The first time I tried to use it was very confused because the sockets were just numbered that did not match any of the tubes I had. Not sure when I figured out there was a chart on the back that told which socket to use..
I still rely on my old Eico MC tester. Im actually surprised that you didnt cover Eico
I am really happy with my BK precision tube tester it tests everything I have ever had in my hand.
The Dyna-Jet tester looks like the testers we used to use in the drugstores back in the '60s
It's interesting to see the American tube testers, with at times fancy scrollers or card sheets in the box, compared to the European tube testers such as the ones from Taylor where you had all of that in a manual that would be updated over time as new tubes were released.
more excellent advice Paul... much appreciated.
Glad to help
Great Video mr Cartson !
Thank you kindly
Recently picked up a Palec VCT3 Emission Tester. Gave it a thrashing going through several cartons of tube from 43s - 807s - EL36s, 12AXs, etc. Seems to work ok, but I suspect the 7 & 9 pin sockets maybe a bit sloppy. Gave the switches a few good squirts of contact cleaner. Got the basic documentation.
Totally agree about the Heathkit. I have a similar unit & an AVO MK IV. The Heathkit gets more use.
Nice topic! I recently got an Eico 666 tester in horrible condition cosmetically and it also had a blown meter. Bummer.
However, it turns out that a Heathkit VTVM uses a meter about the same size and with the correct ballistics! I scanned the faceplate of the Eico meter and slipped it behind a Heathkit meter I got from a junk IG-18 VTVM. A little cleaning, a few replaced resistors and a few new electrolytic caps and it calibrated right up.
I service tube guitar amps and have always wanted to be able to check tubes. Given the cost of tube testers these days, Im very glad it came back to life for very little money. If ya got an Eico 666/667 with a bum meter, find a beat up Heathkit VTVM and get it back into service! :)
I already have two tube testers. Now I think I need another one or two or three. Such beauties.
I worked at Radio Shack early 1970's, and the most dreaded sight was a customer walking in with a shopping bag full of tubes (every one in their color TV) 10 or 15 minutes before closing time. Many folks had problems with the instructions to use the SELF SERVICE tube tester, so we had to "hold their hand".
I kind of like the Dyna-Quick...it uses punch cards like the old computers used to do...very nostalgic :)
Extremely very helpful a first on you tube well done. Billion thanks Paul. Best 73s mike
Glad you liked it Mike!
You state that you need to build an adapter to test "modern" tubes on an older tester. Please remember, that companies, for example Hickok, often sold those adapters for their testers. I have the Hickok CA-5 adapter that allows testing tubes, like Compactron's, on my old 533A. I'm sure you know this, but just in case a new owner (like I was) doesn't know these factory adapters can still be found (along with the settings needed to use them). Great video, BTW.
At work I use an AVO CT160, which I understand is a bit of a strange one. No idea where my boss got it but he is a notorious hoarder.
I find it pretty enjoyable to use with the little "telephone" style dial adjusting the wheatstone bridge current measurement. Also the pin selectors use actual identifiers (C, G, H+/- etc) instead of numbers, so I tend to just set it myself instead of flipping through a book. Small details, but makes it feel more like a professional level tool.
Don't look up the price though.
English knob. Soder and solder. Your a funny man
Why not add a “process” control , lol.
Yes it's Solder not soder only the Americans can butcher the English language.
@@ebones6957 You mean PROOcess? I worked with a fellow from Canada, and he did his darnedest to say project. But sometimes it came out PROject. I quickly added Eh? at the end of his sentence. We heard Eh, allot living in NE Washington State. We were not that far from the border. 7RY
I have a Hickok 799 “mustang” tester and need the CA-99 adapter plate to be able to test more variety of the radio tubes. It’s similar to the B&K one you have.
I don't need a tube tester, i got one for free, a few years ago. It released the magic smoke,nothing bad,a tesistor burnt out, due to a shorted tube, being tested too long. I replaced the resistor with a New one, and replaced all old electrolytic capacitors with New ones. Works perfect. It's a rpg70, made in gdr(DDR) in the 1970s, complete with owners manual and schematic. Very useful Instrument.
Heathkit tt1 and it's lid adaptor is in my opinion the best outside of the Hickok lab machine. Completely able to calibrate, adaptors to very current tubes.
I have a Precision 10-40. It always draws attention, bigger than the 620. The list of tubes on the wheel has to be near 500 tubes plus pages of extras. In the manual, it explains how to test picture tubes. It doesn't test compactron tubes, but i made an adapter and have a few with the settings worked out to test them. I need to install a noise test mod that's something i never used before.
I have B&k for my modern tubes and Precision for my older tubes !