I am in the middle of my DIY fence install with PostMaster posts and cedar that I pre-stained. Thank you guys for all of your tips. I watched for about a year before making a purchasing decision.
Digging my holes right now for a 4' horizontal. Frostline in my area is 42" so I'm going with 48" deep holes. Been looking here, Joe Everest, April Wilkerson, etc. and I'm going to be following SWI's method for the most part. My biggest concern is my back corner that gets really mushy for a couple months in the spring. I'm able to run the surface water off (swale) but the table is really high. Worried about the fence sinking and leaning in the spring.
@@mystreteacher That might be one case where a crushed stone base would make sense because you may not be able to get the compaction you need from wet soil. Take a 2x4 and compact crushed stone or peastone gravel and then pour your 42” of concrete over that. I’m not a fence expert - just armchair quarterbacking this thing.
I agree with the steel post and always steer people away from wood. If they insist going with wood I put gravel at the bottom of the holes, use tar on the part going in the ground sometimes I even use roofing paper and the wrapped the bottom of the post as well. I always build up a mound of concrete to shed water and that seems to help alot. Great work and videos, you are my favorite fencing company. Tyler with Five Star Fencing on the West Coast!
@@lisat9707 Absolutely! Luckily I live in California where the coldest it gets is 65 degrees, I'm not sure if I've ever seen frost lol. I'm being sarcastic for those who take things literally.
I stopped using steel posts (Durapost) due to customer complaints about the flexibility. The fences were flexing like crazy, most people (here in Scotland at least) prefer wood posts with postsaver sleeves fitted (20 year guarantee). Cheers for the video though !
Steel fence posts are the way to go. Just did my back yard myself with steels. Drove them in the ground with a sledgehammer, done. Concreted about 4 of them into the old wood post holes due to proximity to utilities so didn't want to drive them in there.
I’m glade to watch your channel. I realized I exactly build fences the way you describe how to build them for 10 years already I’d love to visit sometime and maybe learn some more knowledge I may be missing out on
Thanks for the great content! Can I ask two quick questions? 1. Can I dado the wood posts so that the 2x4 rails sit flush to the surface? 2. Would it be wise to buy the pickets early and dry them out prior to install? Then I can avoid the big gaps as they dry?
That's a lot of great info! I've been changing the orientation of the 2x4s when they bow (thought it was more due to snow, we get a lot, and 3 times in 15 years the compacted ground snow has been to the top of the 6' fence), and replacing redwood or treated 4x4 posts when they break at 30 years old. The part of our wood fence built over a metal fence is strong, and only needs a slight repair for some blown out cross beams due to downslope or a tree. I already planned to put in metal posts on a new section for the corner and gate, but maybe I'll skip wood posts completely, or bituthane wrap the bottom or skip the concrete. Thanks for the info!
I inherited a fence that had 10 foot rails and some were 12ft. I didn’t understand why until I went to repair/replace the post. There was a huge root system at every spot I wanted the dig, and it ran along the fence line, frustrating because I’d get a foot down before hitting the root.
Dad-bod 101 with an British accent! Time for Carnivore, BroDadBod Great editing. I get a tonne of *crickets* whenever I ask the wifey if she wants to come-with me tool shopping.
Feed back please: today's lumber is curling even faster in last few years. I'm thinking of going 4 rails on a 6' fence, considering shortening 6" exposure at top and bottom. Pickets all look like they're cut out of 7" logs. Sawdust between pickets (which are visibly cut from same tree in perfect matching sequence) makes me ask how they were treated. Just pressure on whole bundle which means inners are not as exposed to treatment. They logs couldn't be opened and separated for soaking and then drying otherwise sawdust would be gone. Wet pickets out of small trees with curved growth rings = fast warping. I'd love some insight. Thank you.
i would have to agree. that’s why i have made the switch to Alta forests Pre stained pickets. Much much less sawdust and they are much better quality. they’re a true 3/4 thick board and a true 6” wide picket. They are fully treated and they even come with a wax seal on the ends of the pickets where they’ve been cut during production
I agree. It’s not the same wood as before. No more old growth forest wood. Sugi cedar is the worse wood I’ve ever seen. Same with pressure treated wood. After the switch from cca to acq, it seems to warp a lot more.
@@Johnny-tt8zc They are so minimally kiln dried that they go on very heavy (tired shoulders at end of day) but when I replace the curled ones they're light as a feather.
@@finallyfriday. they cost $2.87 per picket in my area. but I try to upsell the customers on them anyways because of how much better quality they are. But if the customer absolutely wants the cheapest possible, then we’ll just use the regular pine. and I have them sign a contract anyways regarding any warping, splitting, checking, anything like that.
I was freaking out looking for a previous video you made and could not find it. Now I realize it was on a different channel. How many channels do you have?
If you don't want the "wiggle", you can change your fence design slightly by adding a buttress on one side... Two sides would be even better, but that would require you getting your neighbor to agree to that design... I made a wooden privacy fence using 8 ft T-posts for the main posts, drilling 3 holes in the posts and using overlapping rails on each side of the T-post with long hot dipped galvanized bolts that went through the rails and posts... Only needed a single bolt at every rail juncture point... For the buttress, I hammered shorter pieces of T-posts 2 ft into the ground, leaving enough sticking out that I could bolt a piece of #4 or #5 rebar (with flattened ends) between the top of it and the bolt for the middle rail at each post... It's survived hurricanes -- the same cannot be said for my neighbor's posts... By overlapping the rails on each side of each section, the steel posts are hidden, even if you do not put a picket across the edge of the 2x4 rails... The only problem was that I decided to make my posts the same level as the neighboring fences so that the top rail would match. That resulted in too much of a picket reveal which I figured would eventually cause the pickets to be a bit "wavy". So, I took a 2x4, ripped it into two 2x2s and then cut a groove down the center with a few passes through my table saw so that it would form a small "cap" for the top edge of the fence... Depending upon the size of the "dog ears" on your pickets, you might need to use full 4x4 instead... And, of course, cut the ends of the "cap" at a 45 degree angle so that the sections will overlap and line up... One of my neighbors made the mistake of staining their fence and the HOA Nazis sent them a letter saying that it must be removed or they will be fined... The ridiculous part is that it was stained exactly the same as the fencing that the city had put up along the backyards of the properties that bordered a larger street... HOAs are run by petty people who are failures in their professional lives and who thus derive pleasure from trying to tell others what they must do... In other words, LOSERS...
Watching your stuff I appreciate the fence the previous owner put up on my property more and more. Horizontal cedar w/steel posts and it looks awesome - I've seen the receipt, and it was jaw dropping. I need to replace a section that burned and am learning a good bit watching your videos! Two questions - does cedar need staining? (it's a huge fence) Looks like the answer is yes. 2nd - where's a good place to get a support wheel for a heavy gate? Current wheel is a mess on a swinging gate that's quite heavy. Checked your site and didn't see one that looked like it would work. Argh! Thanks! Learning a lot from your videos!
Hey! Thanks for the kind words. 👍🏻 1. Yes--cedar does need staining. 2. Don't know what to tell you on the wheel. One of our design principles is to almost never incorporate a wheel on a gate, so that's not an area we specialize in.
@@SWiFence Thank you, I'll look into staining the fence. It surrounds a near acre so it'll be interesting to do to say the least lol. I too would've wanted to skip a wheel but this was inherited. It's a solid gate but it's at least 10ft wide, metal framed, and horizontal cedar like the fence. It's a beast! Thankfully not used too often right now so I have time to ponder a solution that will hopefully last. Appreciate your time and your videos!
Man as a contractor that overbuilds everything apparently I did everything right!! Put wood board on board up in 2007. 12' 2x4 but spaced posts @6' without concrete except on gate posts. Then sprayed bear paints wood stain and have not done anything since but looked new for a good 10 yrs before the sealer started to fade and wear. . It now does need replaced because I never recoated it and it is finally rotting out now. So what 17 yrs in wet south Fl and the fence finally need a storm to take it down So I can repeat what worked in round 1.
Not really relevant to modern techniques but regarding tamped earth my great grandfather used bodark posts in tamped earth for his barbed wire fences and those things would probably last a hundred years, talking about the tamped earth reminded me of the super old-fashioned way.
I have a steel post. Just the 1 near where they removed a short retaining wall. It's leaning worse and worse each year. What would you do to fix it? I've tried water soaking to soften and move it back. It's helped but after a few years it goes back.
The main benefit to those metal clips is speed of install of rails. I prefer the look of face nailing the rails. (I call them ranch rails). But many customers ask for the clips and also concrete.
People ragging on u post style saying its to windy here crack me up. I tell my customers the fence is strong enough to bend to manage expectations right from the beginning
Hi guys, love your channel...got a question for you. I'm building a 4 ft. tall horizontal fence. My problem is some of my 4"x4" treated posts can only go 1 ft. deep due to water lines. How can I build up the strength for those posts? I'm thinking: 1) bring the concrete up a few extra inches above ground with a Quikrete form tube? Or, 2) dig the holes wider? Thanks!
Is it water lines or is it irrigation lines? if it’s irrigation i would just re route the line out of the way or make a box out of the line using four - 90 degree angles pieces.
Does it make any sense to pour say a 2 foot concrete base all along the fence perimeter and then bolt down post anchor brackets to it and set your posts on that?
I think you might be able to get the hinges aligned if you jig them to a straight board before mounting them. I do & don't understand the bind issue, no offense. On one of my heavier shed doors the builders used screws that broke, what a mess.
Wood moves and twists over time. What is straight today may or may not be tomorrow. It will probably bind at some point even If you don't know it and wear out the hinges quicker
You will not believe this. You've probably met Ken. Putting up clears for Ken's bud. Clears are different colors. Bud is a nitwit. Yard guys produce 600 same colored clears. Def. on the staples. Something else funny. Mid 90's Motorola radios. Ken is telling somebody over the radio that we switched to PT because it lasts longer. Mr. Popular-of-the-moment gets on the radio and says bullshit, the boards rot off first, PT is just cheaper. Ken was speaking with a salesman that was with a customer. Day Zero, radio protocols.
Chainlink is banned in palm springs ,desert hot springs, palm desert, indio because of home owners doing there own fence. Please let a professional do the fence!!!!
What??? Concrete rots wood faster than dirt??? Take 1 board cut in in half, lay one part on the dirt lay the other on your sidewalk. Check them in 3 months after it rains a few times, you decide which is better.
Dig two holes. Put a wooden fence post in each. In one add the dirt back in increments, tamping each layer solid. In the other, pour wet concrete. Check back in 5 years.
Look at it this way. Wood shrinks when dry so a tiny gap forms around the post. Then water rolls down into the cup created out of concrete and sits there until the wood dries it out by absorbing it. Put a pc of wood in dirt and another in a cup of water and get back to us on your results
I am in the middle of my DIY fence install with PostMaster posts and cedar that I pre-stained. Thank you guys for all of your tips. I watched for about a year before making a purchasing decision.
Digging my holes right now for a 4' horizontal. Frostline in my area is 42" so I'm going with 48" deep holes. Been looking here, Joe Everest, April Wilkerson, etc. and I'm going to be following SWI's method for the most part. My biggest concern is my back corner that gets really mushy for a couple months in the spring. I'm able to run the surface water off (swale) but the table is really high. Worried about the fence sinking and leaning in the spring.
@@mystreteacher That might be one case where a crushed stone base would make sense because you may not be able to get the compaction you need from wet soil. Take a 2x4 and compact crushed stone or peastone gravel and then pour your 42” of concrete over that. I’m not a fence expert - just armchair quarterbacking this thing.
I agree with the steel post and always steer people away from wood. If they insist going with wood I put gravel at the bottom of the holes, use tar on the part going in the ground sometimes I even use roofing paper and the wrapped the bottom of the post as well. I always build up a mound of concrete to shed water and that seems to help alot. Great work and videos, you are my favorite fencing company. Tyler with Five Star Fencing on the West Coast!
Don't forget about frost heave if you do make that mound of concrete at the top.
@@lisat9707 Absolutely! Luckily I live in California where the coldest it gets is 65 degrees, I'm not sure if I've ever seen frost lol. I'm being sarcastic for those who take things literally.
That horizontal fence you built looks amazing. Great pattern, love the stain color!
Excellent information. Just so happens that my wife & I were discussing a wooden privacy fence today. Good info. Thanks!
I stopped using steel posts (Durapost) due to customer complaints about the flexibility. The fences were flexing like crazy, most people (here in Scotland at least) prefer wood posts with postsaver sleeves fitted (20 year guarantee). Cheers for the video though !
Steel fence posts are the way to go. Just did my back yard myself with steels. Drove them in the ground with a sledgehammer, done. Concreted about 4 of them into the old wood post holes due to proximity to utilities so didn't want to drive them in there.
I’m glade to watch your channel. I realized I exactly build fences the way you describe how to build them for 10 years already
I’d love to visit sometime and maybe learn some more knowledge I may be missing out on
Thanks Mark ! You pack so much good inf into each video! Thank you for explaining all your reasons for doing something!
Hey my pleasure! Thank you!
Thanks for the great content! Can I ask two quick questions?
1. Can I dado the wood posts so that the 2x4 rails sit flush to the surface?
2. Would it be wise to buy the pickets early and dry them out prior to install? Then I can avoid the big gaps as they dry?
Damn. Every time I hear your voice I learn something new. You da MAN!
Well thanks!
That's a lot of great info! I've been changing the orientation of the 2x4s when they bow (thought it was more due to snow, we get a lot, and 3 times in 15 years the compacted ground snow has been to the top of the 6' fence), and replacing redwood or treated 4x4 posts when they break at 30 years old. The part of our wood fence built over a metal fence is strong, and only needs a slight repair for some blown out cross beams due to downslope or a tree. I already planned to put in metal posts on a new section for the corner and gate, but maybe I'll skip wood posts completely, or bituthane wrap the bottom or skip the concrete. Thanks for the info!
You're welcome!
I inherited a fence that had 10 foot rails and some were 12ft. I didn’t understand why until I went to repair/replace the post. There was a huge root system at every spot I wanted the dig, and it ran along the fence line, frustrating because I’d get a foot down before hitting the root.
Starting the week with another SWI Fence video 💪
Excellent!
What kind of gate would you guys do with the metal corrugated privacy fence? When using the trident post.
Maybe a video idea.
Dad-bod 101 with an British accent!
Time for Carnivore, BroDadBod
Great editing.
I get a tonne of *crickets* whenever I ask the wifey if she wants to come-with me tool shopping.
I've found hardwood outlasts treated pine by 3x. Most recently I have used galvanised SHS rails which is the weakest link.
Feed back please: today's lumber is curling even faster in last few years. I'm thinking of going 4 rails on a 6' fence, considering shortening 6" exposure at top and bottom. Pickets all look like they're cut out of 7" logs. Sawdust between pickets (which are visibly cut from same tree in perfect matching sequence) makes me ask how they were treated. Just pressure on whole bundle which means inners are not as exposed to treatment. They logs couldn't be opened and separated for soaking and then drying otherwise sawdust would be gone. Wet pickets out of small trees with curved growth rings = fast warping. I'd love some insight. Thank you.
i would have to agree. that’s why i have made the switch to Alta forests Pre stained pickets. Much much less sawdust and they are much better quality. they’re a true 3/4 thick board and a true 6” wide picket. They are fully treated and they even come with a wax seal on the ends of the pickets where they’ve been cut during production
I agree. It’s not the same wood as before. No more old growth forest wood. Sugi cedar is the worse wood I’ve ever seen. Same with pressure treated wood. After the switch from cca to acq, it seems to warp a lot more.
@@iamdrewski39 how are they on cost? Getting tired of revisiting every client after 30 days to replace macaroni shaped pickets.
@@Johnny-tt8zc They are so minimally kiln dried that they go on very heavy (tired shoulders at end of day) but when I replace the curled ones they're light as a feather.
@@finallyfriday. they cost $2.87 per picket in my area. but I try to upsell the customers on them anyways because of how much better quality they are. But if the customer absolutely wants the cheapest possible, then we’ll just use the regular pine. and I have them sign a contract anyways regarding any warping, splitting, checking, anything like that.
Excellent video! So much good advice!
Thanks!
I was freaking out looking for a previous video you made and could not find it. Now I realize it was on a different channel. How many channels do you have?
Perfect again
If you don't want the "wiggle", you can change your fence design slightly by adding a buttress on one side... Two sides would be even better, but that would require you getting your neighbor to agree to that design... I made a wooden privacy fence using 8 ft T-posts for the main posts, drilling 3 holes in the posts and using overlapping rails on each side of the T-post with long hot dipped galvanized bolts that went through the rails and posts... Only needed a single bolt at every rail juncture point... For the buttress, I hammered shorter pieces of T-posts 2 ft into the ground, leaving enough sticking out that I could bolt a piece of #4 or #5 rebar (with flattened ends) between the top of it and the bolt for the middle rail at each post... It's survived hurricanes -- the same cannot be said for my neighbor's posts... By overlapping the rails on each side of each section, the steel posts are hidden, even if you do not put a picket across the edge of the 2x4 rails...
The only problem was that I decided to make my posts the same level as the neighboring fences so that the top rail would match. That resulted in too much of a picket reveal which I figured would eventually cause the pickets to be a bit "wavy". So, I took a 2x4, ripped it into two 2x2s and then cut a groove down the center with a few passes through my table saw so that it would form a small "cap" for the top edge of the fence... Depending upon the size of the "dog ears" on your pickets, you might need to use full 4x4 instead... And, of course, cut the ends of the "cap" at a 45 degree angle so that the sections will overlap and line up...
One of my neighbors made the mistake of staining their fence and the HOA Nazis sent them a letter saying that it must be removed or they will be fined... The ridiculous part is that it was stained exactly the same as the fencing that the city had put up along the backyards of the properties that bordered a larger street... HOAs are run by petty people who are failures in their professional lives and who thus derive pleasure from trying to tell others what they must do... In other words, LOSERS...
I use a charcoal colored multi viscosity stain. Beautiful.
Watching your stuff I appreciate the fence the previous owner put up on my property more and more. Horizontal cedar w/steel posts and it looks awesome - I've seen the receipt, and it was jaw dropping. I need to replace a section that burned and am learning a good bit watching your videos! Two questions - does cedar need staining? (it's a huge fence) Looks like the answer is yes. 2nd - where's a good place to get a support wheel for a heavy gate? Current wheel is a mess on a swinging gate that's quite heavy. Checked your site and didn't see one that looked like it would work. Argh!
Thanks! Learning a lot from your videos!
Hey! Thanks for the kind words. 👍🏻
1. Yes--cedar does need staining.
2. Don't know what to tell you on the wheel. One of our design principles is to almost never incorporate a wheel on a gate, so that's not an area we specialize in.
@@SWiFence Thank you, I'll look into staining the fence. It surrounds a near acre so it'll be interesting to do to say the least lol. I too would've wanted to skip a wheel but this was inherited. It's a solid gate but it's at least 10ft wide, metal framed, and horizontal cedar like the fence. It's a beast! Thankfully not used too often right now so I have time to ponder a solution that will hopefully last.
Appreciate your time and your videos!
Man as a contractor that overbuilds everything apparently I did everything right!! Put wood board on board up in 2007. 12' 2x4 but spaced posts @6' without concrete except on gate posts. Then sprayed bear paints wood stain and have not done anything since but looked new for a good 10 yrs before the sealer started to fade and wear. . It now does need replaced because I never recoated it and it is finally rotting out now. So what 17 yrs in wet south Fl and the fence finally need a storm to take it down So I can repeat what worked in round 1.
I like that t shirt and good advice too
How can I best protect the rail from water penetrating from the top?
Is there a certain time to stain the fence. I just did mines Monday.
Hemlock for posts. Hella heavenly for no rot!
27 years with wood posts and cement. Finally need to replace. Will use wood and cement again.
Giving away all the secrets..!
Not really relevant to modern techniques but regarding tamped earth my great grandfather used bodark posts in tamped earth for his barbed wire fences and those things would probably last a hundred years, talking about the tamped earth reminded me of the super old-fashioned way.
I want to put up a large area fence for a dog rescue, what would you suggest on a budget? Northern California coast, it wouldn't be wood.
I have a steel post. Just the 1 near where they removed a short retaining wall. It's leaning worse and worse each year. What would you do to fix it? I've tried water soaking to soften and move it back. It's helped but after a few years it goes back.
The main benefit to those metal clips is speed of install of rails.
I prefer the look of face nailing the rails. (I call them ranch rails).
But many customers ask for the clips and also concrete.
The reason for the brackets might be for access, being able to drop a span for home maintenance.
I'm gonna try Unicorn wood!
You should!
People ragging on u post style saying its to windy here crack me up. I tell my customers the fence is strong enough to bend to manage expectations right from the beginning
Love it.
What do you charge for Metal post vs Wood standard PT 4"x4"x 8'?
Can you recommend someone who uses your system in the Chicago, Illinois area?
Not familiar with the area--sorry.
Hi guys, love your channel...got a question for you. I'm building a 4 ft. tall horizontal fence. My problem is some of my 4"x4" treated posts can only go 1 ft. deep due to water lines. How can I build up the strength for those posts? I'm thinking: 1) bring the concrete up a few extra inches above ground with a Quikrete form tube? Or, 2) dig the holes wider? Thanks!
😬 That's really not optimal. At all. I'd rather recalculate post spacing and get those posts to land somewhere else. 👍🏻
Is it water lines or is it irrigation lines? if it’s irrigation i would just re route the line out of the way or make a box out of the line using four - 90 degree angles pieces.
Vinyl all day
Some people love it. Some people hate it.
How much steel post increase a job cost
Tends to wash out. What you save in concrete and labor you spend in steel.
Does it make any sense to pour say a 2 foot concrete base all along the fence perimeter and then bolt down post anchor brackets to it and set your posts on that?
Expensive and probably not very strong except in corners where they support each other. Asking a lot of the last 1-2" or so of a pc of wood.
My Unicorn Wood has stayed standing for 300 years!!
I think you might be able to get the hinges aligned if you jig them to a straight board before mounting them. I do & don't understand the bind issue, no offense. On one of my heavier shed doors the builders used screws that broke, what a mess.
I think he basically said he could align 3 hinges if he really wanted to do so but no need. You didn't get that?
Wood moves and twists over time. What is straight today may or may not be tomorrow. It will probably bind at some point even If you don't know it and wear out the hinges quicker
@@Joe-em3iw I did but I am not switching to 2. I prefer 3.
@@MP99. More of a reason to use 3. Why would 2 not bind if the gate is twisting with time.
@@SlackerU No need to explain if you do not understand anyway.
This guy knows his 🌰
Everyone knows Unicorn Wood is the way to go for posts. Stop gaslighting!!!!
Question - Do you know the difference between a staple and a screw?
Answer - Have you ever been stapled??
😂
Happy Fathers Day everybody!
найс, ай лайк ыт, ага
You will not believe this. You've probably met Ken. Putting up clears for Ken's bud. Clears are different colors. Bud is a nitwit. Yard guys produce 600 same colored clears.
Def. on the staples.
Something else funny. Mid 90's Motorola radios. Ken is telling somebody over the radio that we switched to PT because it lasts longer. Mr. Popular-of-the-moment gets on the radio and says bullshit, the boards rot off first, PT is just cheaper. Ken was speaking with a salesman that was with a customer. Day Zero, radio protocols.
Chainlink is banned in palm springs ,desert hot springs, palm desert, indio because of home owners doing there own fence. Please let a professional do the fence!!!!
What??? Concrete rots wood faster than dirt??? Take 1 board cut in in half, lay one part on the dirt lay the other on your sidewalk. Check them in 3 months after it rains a few times, you decide which is better.
Dig two holes. Put a wooden fence post in each. In one add the dirt back in increments, tamping each layer solid. In the other, pour wet concrete. Check back in 5 years.
Look at it this way. Wood shrinks when dry so a tiny gap forms around the post. Then water rolls down into the cup created out of concrete and sits there until the wood dries it out by absorbing it.
Put a pc of wood in dirt and another in a cup of water and get back to us on your results
Im calling dad belly
😂😂😂
Hahaha
Now you done gone to meddling
The real lesson being stated here is don't use wood in your fence.
That fence sucks
Home owners suck putting up a nice fence!!!!!!!!!!¡!!!!!!!
the guy the made the video owns a home too. Homeowners are like snowflakes; there are no two alike.
Worse thing is a home owner installing their own fence!
naw, the worse thing is a know it all spamming the comment section.