Hi Lee. Thanks for all the videos, really helpful. Curious to know how far you've got with the build, and whether you've had chance to see how the concrete base is performing temperature wise, particularly in this colder weather recently. Cheers
Hi Patrick, thanks for the feedback. I have now recently finished the build and just started to move my stuff in a couple of weeks ago. I haven't used it for extended periods of time yet. The floor was very cold to start with but I also have hard floor. I've noticed that once you start to heat the room up the concrete does start to absorb the heat and takes the chill off.
Thanks! In fact it is set back a little bit from the OSB, so that with the batten and cladding I had a nice depth for the trim piece which I fitted. You can see this in the next video
Hi Harsha. Yes I cannot see why not. The frame will be normally be reinforced with a metal core to give it strength. If you have any doubt the manufacture of the door can always confirm and advise the recommended fixing locations and method.
did you tape the entire frame? It looks like you did the corners top and bottom but not the sides? Also, how much overlap is required. do you overlap outside only or inside as well. cheers
Hi Lee. Great job! Wondering what type and size of screws you used for fixing the door and window to the timber frame? And also where to find the flashing tape? Many thanks.
Hi Stu, thanks for the comment. I would have likely used 100mms for fixing the doors and window. www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-pz-double-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-6-x-100mm-100-pack/16784 The flashing I used was called Buty Bond, but, if you can afford to spend a bit more you might consider given Tyvek a go. - Buty Bond - amzn.to/2KVLlYf Tyvek - amzn.to/3rKhB0R Hope that helps!
I used the same supplier - the windows came with a label on one side - but it did not indicate which side should be facing out and which side should be facing inside. Their website says: Inner pane - Pilkington KS, Outer pane - Pilkington Optiwhite - any idea how we can tell which one is which?
Hi Nick, did you get the acoustic glass? I seem to remember that the sticker was on the inside face. If you have the acoustic glass it is triple glazed with a double pane plus single pane so you can see which is which. The double side faces out with the single on the inside. This graphic might help www.modernupvcwindows.co.uk/img/guide/acousticZ.jpg
Hi Matt, thanks for you comment and glad you liked the video. Yes it is triple acoustic glazing. This is the official description from the manufacturer: "Pilkington Optiphon™ high quality acoustic laminated glass offers excellent noise reduction without reducing light transmittance and impact performance. Ideal for significantly reducing noise from road, rail or air traffic, factories or nightclubs. Noise is reflected back towards the source and also absorbed within the glass. The glass unit is made of a 6.8mm acoustic laminated outer pane, a 18mm Superspacer void and a 4mm inner KS pane. Being laminated it is also very secure and difficult to break into. The u-value is 1.2, the same as our superb A+ rated double glazing. Sound reduction Rw(C;Ctr) 41dB(-2; -6)" www.modernupvcwindows.co.uk/img/guide/acousticZ.jpg One important thing to note which I forgot to mention in the video: I intentionally installed the glass back to front so that rather than keeping outside sound from coming in, i'm stopping inside sound getting out. I checked with the supplier who confirmed this was ok and other customers have in fact done the same. I will be installing an internal door and secondary glazing to improve the sound proofing performance as well.
@@leejmurphy hi Lee how far from the ground level is the bottom of the cladding ,does the concrete base sit much higher than ground level and did you fold back the excess Dpm from the concrete base and trap this under externall walls?sorry for so many questions
Hi @mrmozzer - so I took the cladding down to the edge of the frame where it mets the concrete. The base is probably 1 to 2cm above ground level at the shortest point, but towards the back it's about 5cm. The excess DPM I folded over, ran a bead of silicone, and then put the DPC on top. You can just about make this out in the 3rd video on timber framing - th-cam.com/video/Z2BYoY54i5c/w-d-xo.html
Can’t wait to see how effective this design is at keeping the sound in.
Thanks Richard! I will eventually get some sound test videos up as part of the series
Great vids Matt - looking forward to the next instalments....
Thanks 👍
Great video you make this look so easy 😂
You can clean wet expanding foam off with petrol.
Hi Lee. Thanks for all the videos, really helpful. Curious to know how far you've got with the build, and whether you've had chance to see how the concrete base is performing temperature wise, particularly in this colder weather recently.
Cheers
Hi Patrick, thanks for the feedback. I have now recently finished the build and just started to move my stuff in a couple of weeks ago. I haven't used it for extended periods of time yet. The floor was very cold to start with but I also have hard floor. I've noticed that once you start to heat the room up the concrete does start to absorb the heat and takes the chill off.
Nice work. Do you install the door inline with the batten or the osb. Thanks
Thanks! In fact it is set back a little bit from the OSB, so that with the batten and cladding I had a nice depth for the trim piece which I fitted. You can see this in the next video
Hi
I fixing the a upvc door and come a cross a metal plate in the hinges side. Is it ok to drill this through to fix the door?
Hi Harsha. Yes I cannot see why not. The frame will be normally be reinforced with a metal core to give it strength. If you have any doubt the manufacture of the door can always confirm and advise the recommended fixing locations and method.
@@leejmurphy
Thanks
did you tape the entire frame? It looks like you did the corners top and bottom but not the sides?
Also, how much overlap is required. do you overlap outside only or inside as well. cheers
Hi Lee. Great job!
Wondering what type and size of screws you used for fixing the door and window to the timber frame? And also where to find the flashing tape? Many thanks.
Hi Stu, thanks for the comment. I would have likely used 100mms for fixing the doors and window. www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-pz-double-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-6-x-100mm-100-pack/16784
The flashing I used was called Buty Bond, but, if you can afford to spend a bit more you might consider given Tyvek a go. - Buty Bond - amzn.to/2KVLlYf Tyvek - amzn.to/3rKhB0R
Hope that helps!
I used the same supplier - the windows came with a label on one side - but it did not indicate which side should be facing out and which side should be facing inside. Their website says: Inner pane - Pilkington KS, Outer pane - Pilkington Optiwhite - any idea how we can tell which one is which?
Hi Nick, did you get the acoustic glass? I seem to remember that the sticker was on the inside face. If you have the acoustic glass it is triple glazed with a double pane plus single pane so you can see which is which. The double side faces out with the single on the inside. This graphic might help www.modernupvcwindows.co.uk/img/guide/acousticZ.jpg
@@leejmurphy Thanks Lee - no, I’m afraid I got double glazed, so both panes look the same! I’ll give them a call… thanks for your help.
Called them - label should be inside - but apparently it makes negligible difference…
Good to know! 👍🏻
Hi great video, are the doors and windows you're putting in tripple glazed for soundproofing?
Hi Matt, thanks for you comment and glad you liked the video. Yes it is triple acoustic glazing. This is the official description from the manufacturer:
"Pilkington Optiphon™ high quality acoustic laminated glass offers excellent noise reduction without reducing light transmittance and impact performance. Ideal for significantly reducing noise from road, rail or air traffic, factories or nightclubs. Noise is reflected back towards the source and also absorbed within the glass. The glass unit is made of a 6.8mm acoustic laminated outer pane, a 18mm Superspacer void and a 4mm inner KS pane. Being laminated it is also very secure and difficult to break into. The u-value is 1.2, the same as our superb A+ rated double glazing. Sound reduction Rw(C;Ctr) 41dB(-2; -6)"
www.modernupvcwindows.co.uk/img/guide/acousticZ.jpg
One important thing to note which I forgot to mention in the video: I intentionally installed the glass back to front so that rather than keeping outside sound from coming in, i'm stopping inside sound getting out. I checked with the supplier who confirmed this was ok and other customers have in fact done the same.
I will be installing an internal door and secondary glazing to improve the sound proofing performance as well.
@@leejmurphy great thanks for this
@@leejmurphy hi Lee how far from the ground level is the bottom of the cladding ,does the concrete base sit much higher than ground level and did you fold back the excess Dpm from the concrete base and trap this under externall walls?sorry for so many questions
Hi @mrmozzer - so I took the cladding down to the edge of the frame where it mets the concrete. The base is probably 1 to 2cm above ground level at the shortest point, but towards the back it's about 5cm. The excess DPM I folded over, ran a bead of silicone, and then put the DPC on top. You can just about make this out in the 3rd video on timber framing - th-cam.com/video/Z2BYoY54i5c/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your reply Lee
Angry bootneck music 😂
This is not a how to video as you didn't show anything apart from a time-lapse
Sorry, music gave me a headache - had to stop watching...
Fair enough. Will drop the music from future videos