You can "sand" a neck using a rough paper bag. Believe me it works and I use them on necks. You rub like hell until you feel the neck get hot and rub a little longer. Keep checking. What happens is the old finish will start to liquify and spread into your repair area. I used to use this technique while building custom ship models from scratch and now use it on bass guitar necks.
Thank you very much Rob.. Now if any one here is looking to fix the dent on your Indonesian satin finish neck on an Affinity Strat, this method works brilliantly.. You will hardly notice that the area surrounding the dent was touched after even 1200 wet and dry. : )
If a repair in a satin guitar comes up a bit too shiny, you can try gently rubbing the finish with scotchbrite to dull that area. It also works where your forearm polishes the side and top of an acoustic guitar, or the back of the neck where your thumb tends to shine up a satin finish.
NO!!! Take a cloth, soak it in water, hold it over the dented area and put an iron on top of the cloth. The iron will create steam, forcing it into the wood eventually returning the fibers to its original shape. Afterwards you can sand, finish, coat, etc. and it will look good as new. Whatever you do do NOT pour boiling water on it.
Thank you for this very straight forward diy tutorial. I just bought a used acoustic guitar that has the sort of ding on the neck that I need to repair. I’ve seen that Stewmac offers an amber tinted CA glue for repairs like this. Would the tinted CA glue help to better hide the ding through the repair (or make it less noticeable), in your opinion?
I've never used Stew Mac tinted CA I'm afraid, but I've used super glue that I've tinted myself though. I use dye stains (acetone based). Without seeing it, it's impossible to say I'm sorry. But yeah, there's a good chance it will be slightly better than clear. Best of luck with the repair.
Just about any CA will work, however I usually use a name brand, like Sika, Selleys, Hot Stuff etc. In a thin smear CA dries very quickly, but in a thick pool, it may take hours. The open time for Super Glue can be unpredictable. I'd think the ambient temperature and humidity would also play a part. You can get accelerator for CA glue, but I avoid it if I have the choice. It can make the fill dry so quickly it actually boils. I've heard of some repair shops using airbrushes to apply just the finest mist of accelerator in a specific area. This is a nice idea, I think, especially in a busy, large city repair workshop.
Hi nice video! Question! Wouldn't have been a good idea to use some heat first to gently melt the damaged lacquer so as the small hairline cracks melts it gets less visible?
I have a good mate who is a panelbeater by trade, and he told me the same thing. Not 24hrs, but he said at least an hour or so. On a tight curve like a neck it's not so critical, but wet sanding a large flat surface, like a body or headstock face, yes, those little extras make a difference. Especially with a dark colour.
Nice video. I Have some small dents in a painted (red paint) ES335 neck. The paint is not cracked or chipped, just small dents about 1/8 to 3/16s or so in length. Is this method safe to fill and level the dents or will it damaged the red paint. Thanks. Philip
Is it a solid colour? or is it a red tinted lacquer? (Where you can still see the grain through the finish.) If it's a solid colour, then yes, you can fill with clear super glue, although it might be still slightly visible after the final polish. However, if it's a red tinted lacquer, there's a chance you will lighten the area when you wet sand it, since you are slightly thinning the layer of finish, and the depth of colour is reduced. If your guitar is quite valuable and you are new to this, I would tread carefully.
@@RobMods Yes it is a solid color Rob, not a stain, but painted. Before I apply the super glue, what is the best way to prep the surface in the very tiny dents? Should I lightly scrap with a razor type blade, use sandpaper, etc. The dents are very small (most are small), not sure how I get in the small dent to prep for the super glue. It is the regular super glue I use correct? Not the thicker gel. Thanks again. Phil
I couldnt find a video on this so ill ask here. Do you know of any way of removing small dents on the guitar body on a polyurethane finish? The body wood is maple.
great video man , do you know how to do this with Washburn dime st pro transparent flame top please? its complicated finish so Im stumped and dam expensive guitar lol
I have a question man! So I bought a Takamine Satin Finish, and it has some scratches in the neck close to the body, you can barely feel them. Is there a way to remove this ? Or there is no way! Thanks! I’ll be waiting for your response!
Actually that's standard viscosity CA. But you are right, sometimes you'll have to orientate the surface so the glue won't run. I've actually never tried gel CA for this. But notice with the toothpick, the glue still has some surface tension...
Hmm. Not sure really. I've never tried it. I would think you'd need a dry powdered pigment, but test it carefully. Pretty sure Stewmac sell amber tinted CA. And I often use Locktite 480, which is black...
Never sand the finish in circles. Always go the same direction and alternate between grits. Also the chip is far less noticeable if you just leave the cracked pieces in place and simply let the glue fill them, too.
Thanks for your comments, but I have to respectfully disagree. IME, wet sanding back and forth in straight lines creates v-gouges at each end of the stroke, where the paper stops briefly before you drag it back in the opposite direction. Sometimes sanding in slightly different directions with each finer grit is helpful because you can see whether the previous scratches have been fully removed before shifting up to the next grit.
Not sure why this guy is filling this dent with superglue then sanding an out! You can steam it out with an iron and a wet cloth. The fibers of the wood where the dent is are crushed and when you steam them out you can return them back to their original shape sand it and refinish it. I don’t like doing these super glue type repairs because I did one on a guitar about 20 years ago….here we are 20 years later and it’s starting to show through. 😕😒
My new videos are much better than this! Consider subscribing to my channel. Cheers!
Rob, why not try steaming the dent out first? Why would you need to remove the finish first? Thanks!
You can "sand" a neck using a rough paper bag. Believe me it works and I use them on necks. You rub like hell until you feel the neck get hot and rub a little longer. Keep checking. What happens is the old finish will start to liquify and spread into your repair area. I used to use this technique while building custom ship models from scratch and now use it on bass guitar necks.
Really? Wow. I burned my Telecaster neck with soldering iron and need a fix.
Wow!! Nice man!!
Killer! Thanks..That’s one of the most useful guitar videos I’ve seen,
Thank you very much Rob.. Now if any one here is looking to fix the dent on your Indonesian satin finish neck on an Affinity Strat, this method works brilliantly.. You will hardly notice that the area surrounding the dent was touched after even 1200 wet and dry. : )
If a repair in a satin guitar comes up a bit too shiny, you can try gently rubbing the finish with scotchbrite to dull that area. It also works where your forearm polishes the side and top of an acoustic guitar, or the back of the neck where your thumb tends to shine up a satin finish.
Tried boiling water to pop the wood out? Works on floor dents
What would you do with that water? Drip on the dent?
@@MrIgor13 yes...if you have a dented wood floor you poor the boiling water on the dent.. Try it on a piece of scrap wood sometime
NO!!! Take a cloth, soak it in water, hold it over the dented area and put an iron on top of the cloth. The iron will create steam, forcing it into the wood eventually returning the fibers to its original shape. Afterwards you can sand, finish, coat, etc. and it will look good as new. Whatever you do do NOT pour boiling water on it.
Thank you for this very straight forward diy tutorial. I just bought a used acoustic guitar that has the sort of ding on the neck that I need to repair. I’ve seen that Stewmac offers an amber tinted CA glue for repairs like this. Would the tinted CA glue help to better hide the ding through the repair (or make it less noticeable), in your opinion?
I've never used Stew Mac tinted CA I'm afraid, but I've used super glue that I've tinted myself though. I use dye stains (acetone based). Without seeing it, it's impossible to say I'm sorry. But yeah, there's a good chance it will be slightly better than clear. Best of luck with the repair.
Great Job with this. Enjoyed it.
Great channel. Thanks for all the helpful content.
What kind of super glue did you use? Why it is not drying so fast?
Just about any CA will work, however I usually use a name brand, like Sika, Selleys, Hot Stuff etc. In a thin smear CA dries very quickly, but in a thick pool, it may take hours. The open time for Super Glue can be unpredictable. I'd think the ambient temperature and humidity would also play a part. You can get accelerator for CA glue, but I avoid it if I have the choice. It can make the fill dry so quickly it actually boils. I've heard of some repair shops using airbrushes to apply just the finest mist of accelerator in a specific area. This is a nice idea, I think, especially in a busy, large city repair workshop.
Hi nice video! Question! Wouldn't have been a good idea to use some heat first to gently melt the damaged lacquer so as the small hairline cracks melts it gets less visible?
in a stew m,ac video he suggested soaking the sandpaper for 24 hours as an industry secret or something
I have a good mate who is a panelbeater by trade, and he told me the same thing. Not 24hrs, but he said at least an hour or so. On a tight curve like a neck it's not so critical, but wet sanding a large flat surface, like a body or headstock face, yes, those little extras make a difference. Especially with a dark colour.
would you recommend this same technique on the body of a guitar?
Nice video.
I Have some small dents in a painted (red paint) ES335 neck. The paint is not cracked or chipped, just small dents about 1/8 to 3/16s or so in length. Is this method safe to fill and level the dents or will it damaged the red paint. Thanks.
Philip
Is it a solid colour? or is it a red tinted lacquer? (Where you can still see the grain through the finish.) If it's a solid colour, then yes, you can fill with clear super glue, although it might be still slightly visible after the final polish.
However, if it's a red tinted lacquer, there's a chance you will lighten the area when you wet sand it, since you are slightly thinning the layer of finish, and the depth of colour is reduced. If your guitar is quite valuable and you are new to this, I would tread carefully.
@@RobMods Yes it is a solid color Rob, not a stain, but painted.
Before I apply the super glue, what is the best way to prep the surface in the very tiny dents? Should I lightly scrap with a razor type blade, use sandpaper, etc. The dents are very small (most are small), not sure how I get in the small dent to prep for the super glue. It is the regular super glue I use correct? Not the thicker gel. Thanks again.
Phil
I couldnt find a video on this so ill ask here. Do you know of any way of removing small dents on the guitar body on a polyurethane finish? The body wood is maple.
great video man , do you know how to do this with Washburn dime st pro transparent flame top please? its complicated finish so Im stumped and dam expensive guitar lol
Great video, helped a lot, thanks!
this is work on clear doff??
What materials can i needed? Sir please comment here please God bless
Super glue and sand paper. Car polish.
Thanks for sharing Rob. What kind of super glue did you use?
I generally use Sika Super Glue for this sort of thing. Cheers.
Should have steamed the dent first...
Great job!
Thanks!
I have a question man! So I bought a Takamine Satin Finish, and it has some scratches in the neck close to the body, you can barely feel them. Is there a way to remove this ? Or there is no way! Thanks! I’ll be waiting for your response!
Great job man!
Thanks!
Does anyone have a link to do this same thing on a 6 string? Also would appreciate a 12 string video.
Process would be the same
I'm guessing you would use a 'gel' type superglue rather than a runny one - easier to control
Actually that's standard viscosity CA. But you are right, sometimes you'll have to orientate the surface so the glue won't run. I've actually never tried gel CA for this. But notice with the toothpick, the glue still has some surface tension...
is it a takamine?
just use the wood stain for the finish and the crack will completely gone
Could the CA be tinited?
Hmm. Not sure really. I've never tried it. I would think you'd need a dry powdered pigment, but test it carefully. Pretty sure Stewmac sell amber tinted CA. And I often use Locktite 480, which is black...
Never sand the finish in circles. Always go the same direction and alternate between grits. Also the chip is far less noticeable if you just leave the cracked pieces in place and simply let the glue fill them, too.
Thanks for your comments, but I have to respectfully disagree. IME, wet sanding back and forth in straight lines creates v-gouges at each end of the stroke, where the paper stops briefly before you drag it back in the opposite direction. Sometimes sanding in slightly different directions with each finer grit is helpful because you can see whether the previous scratches have been fully removed before shifting up to the next grit.
Steam!
Not sure why this guy is filling this dent with superglue then sanding an out! You can steam it out with an iron and a wet cloth. The fibers of the wood where the dent is are crushed and when you steam them out you can return them back to their original shape sand it and refinish it. I don’t like doing these super glue type repairs because I did one on a guitar about 20 years ago….here we are 20 years later and it’s starting to show through. 😕😒
You could've steamed that dent out very easily.