To help it start with head pressure look into getting a “hard start kit “ it’s just a potential relay and start capacitor for the compressor. It will make it able to start with tons of head pressure and greatly extend the life of the compressor by reducing starting amps.
Was looking forward to this, looks great. Can't wait to see if you manage to actually use the groundwater to dump heat into or extract heat from it. Seems like a great plan. I'm a fellow dutch and I live a giant aquifer, my neighbor has a well with a 10cm pipe and it seems to take no power at all to get a cubic meter of water out of it for watering plants. If anything it will ooze water when the valve is left open. I should harness this massive heat sink/battery
Nice heat pump project. I als made 2 heat pumps, 1 air sourced (5kw) and 1 water/water (25kw). When want to share some stuff, just let me know. (I'm also Dutch)
With UN1965, I think you have barbecue-grade "propane" hydrocarbon mix, and refrigerant grade R290 would be UN1978. You might think about setting up a gas purification process? On the other hand, gefeliciteerd on the working heat pump! This is a lot more sophisticated than what I would design.
Hi there, I had a question about your work on hydrogen. In the past you used a propane tank to store the hydrogen gas that you created. Did you ever have any issues with the steel tank leaking or cracking due to embrittlement? Do you still use the same tanks or did you change them out? Thanks very much for your time and love your work.
Great channel with some super interesting projects!..👍 if you haven't thought of a use for the bunker/basement perhaps you could put a large water tank (or a couple of IBC tanks) down there to store hot/warm water as a seasonal buffer!? 🤣😂 Also, I've been hunting for anyone who has tried to connect a wind turbine to a heat pump for hot water... not via electric but direct wind powered compressor; it might not have been done because it is just not practical, but linking a wind turbine to a heat storage/buffer tank could then be used to feed into a second heat pump which could be used on demand rather than ground water.🤔
not a bad system but a flooded evap like used in a chiller set up may be a better design as untreated ground water will clog up the heat exchanger in time or in best case build up an oxide layer that will reduce heat exchange. it also would make it less sensitive to freeze up as you have a larger reservoir of mass to give more time to effect flow rate.
I know of other open loop water source units. There has been no problem with the evaporator water side. It's quite different to a hot tap water heating application.
Great video, very tidy heat pump. I built a water source heat pump too, it modulates like you plan to. I used it all last winter. I will add an air source evaporator for when the air is warmer. Like you, I use fuel grade propane. Just don’t invert the cylinder to get liquid....I found out the hard way
@TheDIYScienceGuy initially a scroll compressor. That was destroyed when I inverted the propane cylinder. I now have a Bitzer piston compressor which is much quieter!
Thanks for the update. I am looking at eventually doing a similar project. Right now, I'm just disassembling window units into their component pieces so that I can water cool the condensers and use that hot water as preheat for my hot water heater. One thing that I am doing differently is with the outside water source - I'm closing the system by burying copper coils in the ground (ground which has a very high water content). Here I plan on using a variable speed ecm pump with a couple of temperature sensors to regulate the water flow as needed. As an aside, would you have a parts list for this project? Thanks again. Peter
Your heat exchangers are on the small side. I have experienced a real bottleneck in my first system from exchanges twice your size. Also, I would advise against using plain water. Maybe try a closed loop with water and glycol? I run mine down to -20°C with a delta of 40°C. And if you simplify it and beef up the pipes, braze and not solder or use pressure fittings (I use pressure fittings, it's easier to change things) and use proper 30-40bar exchangers you can lose the valves and pressure switches while bumping up pressure and flow.
Quite the dichotomy of smarts in the content, and then the stupid Fahrenheit comments. "Celsius means nothing to me. So I do not punish myself with it." I LOVE the Imperial system. Without question, this is for no other reason than because I grew up with it, and now I am comfortable with it, and I am sentimental towards it. If I was a betting man, I'd bet that YOU grew up with the Metric system! Outside of that, this is a cool (and warm!) project. I will point out that, rather than an app, all you need to know to calculate evaporator superheat are: Evaporator outlet pressure, Evaporator outlet temperature, and the temperature / pressure curve for R290 (propane). You can even get gauges that display pressure and the corresponding saturated temperature for particular refrigerants. That makes it super easy then. I highly recommend the thermostatic expansion valve. An adjustable one, of course.
This is very cool! But one thing was bothering me. How come you calculated it in grams per secund and not kilograms? Would it not mess with the power calculation? I probobly just missed something. Great video!
Thanks! Well It doesn't matter as long as you keep it in grams the whole way. But I wrote it down wrong. I wrote J/(K kg), it should have been J/(K g). Sorry!
@@TheDIYScienceGuy General geothermal, is very easy but Time consuming. Using Plastic pipe in the ground to gather Warmth/cooling, as it is an average temp year round, at 3-5 feet deep. You can run it horizontal or vertical or both. Use multiple pipes to make it Flow better, and it can bring a constant temp into the home or where you want it. You can design it to recycle the internal Air or/and process external air. After installation, the only cost is the Fan to pull the temp Thru the pipe. Its old tech from late 1800's and it still works, and Many companies are Finding the old tech works very well, instead of Heating and cooling. You can bring the tamp upto about 50-55 degree's then Add extra from there. Rather then outside temps down to 0 and lower to exchange. And for AC, its at around 55 degree's already and just need the fan power to bring it into the area.
@@TheDIYScienceGuy the larger the differential, the faster heat flows. the closer you get to equilibrium, the less transfer you get in a given time. for the hot side to transfer heat to a fluid requires there be some differential. so theres always a certain amount you cant use due to time constraints, etc. at least thats what i think they mean?
To help it start with head pressure look into getting a “hard start kit “ it’s just a potential relay and start capacitor for the compressor.
It will make it able to start with tons of head pressure and greatly extend the life of the compressor by reducing starting amps.
Yes, finally! I've waited so long for this video, and it's finally here. Thank you so much! 😆
Was looking forward to this, looks great. Can't wait to see if you manage to actually use the groundwater to dump heat into or extract heat from it. Seems like a great plan. I'm a fellow dutch and I live a giant aquifer, my neighbor has a well with a 10cm pipe and it seems to take no power at all to get a cubic meter of water out of it for watering plants. If anything it will ooze water when the valve is left open. I should harness this massive heat sink/battery
Nice heat pump project. I als made 2 heat pumps, 1 air sourced (5kw) and 1 water/water (25kw).
When want to share some stuff, just let me know. (I'm also Dutch)
With UN1965, I think you have barbecue-grade "propane" hydrocarbon mix, and refrigerant grade R290 would be UN1978. You might think about setting up a gas purification process?
On the other hand, gefeliciteerd on the working heat pump! This is a lot more sophisticated than what I would design.
Hi there, I had a question about your work on hydrogen. In the past you used a propane tank to store the hydrogen gas that you created. Did you ever have any issues with the steel tank leaking or cracking due to embrittlement? Do you still use the same tanks or did you change them out?
Thanks very much for your time and love your work.
Great channel with some super interesting projects!..👍 if you haven't thought of a use for the bunker/basement perhaps you could put a large water tank (or a couple of IBC tanks) down there to store hot/warm water as a seasonal buffer!? 🤣😂
Also, I've been hunting for anyone who has tried to connect a wind turbine to a heat pump for hot water... not via electric but direct wind powered compressor; it might not have been done because it is just not practical, but linking a wind turbine to a heat storage/buffer tank could then be used to feed into a second heat pump which could be used on demand rather than ground water.🤔
not a bad system but a flooded evap like used in a chiller set up may be a better design as untreated ground water will clog up the heat exchanger in time or in best case build up an oxide layer that will reduce heat exchange. it also would make it less sensitive to freeze up as you have a larger reservoir of mass to give more time to effect flow rate.
I did not know that system! Very interesting! I'm going to look into that. Thank you so much for the suggestion! 👌
I know of other open loop water source units. There has been no problem with the evaporator water side. It's quite different to a hot tap water heating application.
Great video, very tidy heat pump. I built a water source heat pump too, it modulates like you plan to. I used it all last winter. I will add an air source evaporator for when the air is warmer. Like you, I use fuel grade propane. Just don’t invert the cylinder to get liquid....I found out the hard way
Thanks! Nice work! What type of compressor did you use?
@TheDIYScienceGuy initially a scroll compressor. That was destroyed when I inverted the propane cylinder. I now have a Bitzer piston compressor which is much quieter!
Ok, so are you able to vary the outpute of that compressor and, therefore, vary the electrical energy consumption?
@@TheDIYScienceGuy yes, it's on a variable speed drive (VSD/VFD)
Nice. Do you have a link for me where I can buy one?
this thing blow my mind.
Amazing chanel!
Try a scrap yard for the compressor. Old AC unit.
Great, nice to see you again !
I hope you haven't forgot butane steam engine project :D
No I haven't! It's sitting on my workbench as we speak. I'm going to put as much effort into that project as possible!
@@TheDIYScienceGuy Great to hear!
why no changeover valve for "the avoid freeze up" system? like the thing used in the defrost cycle on air to air pumps...
Thanks for the update. I am looking at eventually doing a similar project. Right now, I'm just disassembling window units into their component pieces so that I can water cool the condensers and use that hot water as preheat for my hot water heater. One thing that I am doing differently is with the outside water source - I'm closing the system by burying copper coils in the ground (ground which has a very high water content). Here I plan on using a variable speed ecm pump with a couple of temperature sensors to regulate the water flow as needed.
As an aside, would you have a parts list for this project? Thanks again. Peter
@@petersamios5409 you could circulate propane through underground pipe as the evaporator.
Ur brilliant. Thanks.
Your heat exchangers are on the small side. I have experienced a real bottleneck in my first system from exchanges twice your size.
Also, I would advise against using plain water. Maybe try a closed loop with water and glycol? I run mine down to -20°C with a delta of 40°C.
And if you simplify it and beef up the pipes, braze and not solder or use pressure fittings (I use pressure fittings, it's easier to change things) and use proper 30-40bar exchangers you can lose the valves and pressure switches while bumping up pressure and flow.
Great!
Nice project!
I'm thinking about building one Someday.
what do you think the efficiency is?
Thanks! The efficiency will be around 3.2/1
Nice!
could the heat pump be used to store heat into a sand battery
Well, usually, energy would be stored under a much higher temperature in a sand battery. But yes, with mutistage setup, it could be don.
@@TheDIYScienceGuy Thanks, I was thinking of a system that recycles heat from a sterling engine with a sand battery
In that case, I think you will like this video of mine: th-cam.com/video/s5Ud-FD33tI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fwoRr2orrT7oTokS hope you like it
Quite the dichotomy of smarts in the content, and then the stupid Fahrenheit comments. "Celsius means nothing to me. So I do not punish myself with it." I LOVE the Imperial system. Without question, this is for no other reason than because I grew up with it, and now I am comfortable with it, and I am sentimental towards it. If I was a betting man, I'd bet that YOU grew up with the Metric system!
Outside of that, this is a cool (and warm!) project. I will point out that, rather than an app, all you need to know to calculate evaporator superheat are: Evaporator outlet pressure, Evaporator outlet temperature, and the temperature / pressure curve for R290 (propane). You can even get gauges that display pressure and the corresponding saturated temperature for particular refrigerants. That makes it super easy then. I highly recommend the thermostatic expansion valve. An adjustable one, of course.
whereas i only work in degrees reaumur... fahrenheit is so quaint and peculiar...
Isn’t toggling the compressor the most common cause for wear and failure?
Yes, that seems to be the case.
Why did you have 4 heat exchangers?
2 for antifreeze and 2 for ground water. I don't want to accidentally pump antifreeze into the ground when I mix up valves.
i demand that all temperature be declared in reaumur! how DARE you not convert for OUR convenience!
lol...
This is very cool! But one thing was bothering me. How come you calculated it in grams per secund and not kilograms? Would it not mess with the power calculation? I probobly just missed something. Great video!
Thanks! Well It doesn't matter as long as you keep it in grams the whole way. But I wrote it down wrong. I wrote J/(K kg), it should have been J/(K g). Sorry!
Use the Bypass to being bring in colder air... even from the ground.
Sorry, I don't understand what you mean. 🤔
@@TheDIYScienceGuy General geothermal, is very easy but Time consuming.
Using Plastic pipe in the ground to gather Warmth/cooling, as it is an average temp year round, at 3-5 feet deep.
You can run it horizontal or vertical or both. Use multiple pipes to make it Flow better, and it can bring a constant temp into the home or where you want it. You can design it to recycle the internal Air or/and process external air.
After installation, the only cost is the Fan to pull the temp Thru the pipe.
Its old tech from late 1800's and it still works, and Many companies are Finding the old tech works very well, instead of Heating and cooling. You can bring the tamp upto about 50-55 degree's then Add extra from there. Rather then outside temps down to 0 and lower to exchange. And for AC, its at around 55 degree's already and just need the fan power to bring it into the area.
6:02 🤣
not all the heat on the hot side is "usable", which most people neglect to take into account.
How do you mean?
@@TheDIYScienceGuy the larger the differential, the faster heat flows.
the closer you get to equilibrium, the less transfer you get in a given time.
for the hot side to transfer heat to a fluid requires there be some differential. so theres always a certain amount you cant use due to time constraints, etc.
at least thats what i think they mean?