I just bought a speedmaster 400 sbc block, part# starts with pce so idk what they meant by the difference between the two being one has pce label. My understanding was pro comp changed their name to speedmaster. They've been around since 79 but I assume they didn't go by speedmaster back then but idk. I ordered my block unfinished because of the bad machine work or blueprint rumors, but to my surprise measuring with cheap fowler instruments, which are supposedly accurate to half a thou, all the bores(main, cyl, cam, and lifter)are within spec. I will be getting some Starrett or mitutoyo instruments accurate to a tenth of a thou before I assemble. I have not checked the deck for height or square or for tunnel alignments but so far so good.
Personally I love speedmasters stuff, I’m running their 6 inch forged light weight rod, 650 N/A with a 250 shot… 409 Cubic inches, forged wiseco Domed pistons 13.6:1 compression ratio…
Wont aftermarket rods not influence the lubrication of the cylinder walls? Original GM rods had oil thrower tabs on the outer side (crank side of the bearing pocket) most aftermarket rods have nothing? Will I need to modify the rods with oil channels or the crank before use??
Not to my knowledge and that's the first I've heard of that offset or tab at the mating surface being specific for oil sling. I've always used it to separate the cap from the rod. Oil is gonna get slung everywhere with or without that tab imo.
I’ve been building engines 35 years professionally customer brought those rods in balance the engine it’s combination 11 .1 E85 motor Lunati Solid lifter cam Upgraded ARP 2000 rod bolts Profiler 220 heads 406 Engine made 610hp he’s gonna be running 250 shot nitrous will see ???
I think like all their stuff it your willing to put in a lil work they are worth the money I would put a set of arp bolts in it hone if needed will hold up fine I am sure under 700 hp if your going over that buy a better set of rods
Thanks for the shout out.👍 It happens once and a while, the stars must of been aligned correctly yesterday for me to be right? Thanks. The rods look fine and should hold up to sn extra 150 shot no problem. It's those rod bolts that I can't guarantee if they hold up? The entry level 700 HP ARP 8740 bolts I can say would hold together. The SM 8640 bolts........? That is where those rods would fail IF they do? I can't say for sure either way though because I always upgrade to the ARP ones because I know they will hold up. Are there torquing constructions for those bolts?
Nope, no torque specs. Do you have a part number for the arp bolts you mentioned? I searched for a few hours and came up with nothing. Obviously i need a set of 16. Btw, you were right, these are doweled rods. I didnt know. The website doesnt mention it! Dowells change everything! I put the previous vids back up, but i changed the titles, fuck speedmaster...
@@Poopdogsays You need to know what size your bolts are to be able to order them. For example the length from the bottom of the head, diameter and thread pitch then you can go to ARP's website and look up the part number you need. I wouldn't necessarily buy directly from them because their vendors for some reason sell their stuff for less. They sell them in 3 different grades 1)8740 2)ARP2000 3)L-19 with #3 being the strongest and most expensive an #1 being the least strongest and least expensive which will be more than enough for what you're doing unless you're planning on future upgrades that will exceed 700 HP? I wouldn't recommend that with a factory block though, 700 HP and around 7,000 RPM is right around the limit for a factory block.
2 of their bolts had bad threads which caused me to mess up the threads in 1 rod. Called to ask for help. I was told they have a 1 year warranty. It was 1 year and 6 days, from the date of purchase, when i found out about the bad threads. They refused to help in any way! Speedmaster or procomp will never see another dollar from me. Scat or Eagle arent that much more expensive. Good luck!
@@Poopdogsays damnit boy that sux! I guess that's why they were just thrown in the box and not threaded in huh? If i ever get any ill know to get some arp bolts, thanks
How did this shit hold up? I personally will never run procomp/speedmaster parts. Seen to much of their shit that was pure garbage. The rod itself is probably ok, the bolts and machining is what would concern me. Never use their valve train parts or roller rockers. Pure garbage. Bare heads might be ok if you have them ported.
I couldnt even assemble them. Rod bolts had jacked up threads and messed up the threads in the rod. Speedmaster refused to warranty them! No more procomp junk ever!
@@pmd3211 you’re wrong. That’s all I have to say, I work at a machine shop, I’ve seen these rods eat up 1k horsepower engines, completely reliable and good rods.
I have a set of 6.385 rods like those in my 427 bbc with an 8-71 on top. So far, they've been good. I upgraded to arp l-19 bolts.
I just bought a speedmaster 400 sbc block, part# starts with pce so idk what they meant by the difference between the two being one has pce label. My understanding was pro comp changed their name to speedmaster. They've been around since 79 but I assume they didn't go by speedmaster back then but idk. I ordered my block unfinished because of the bad machine work or blueprint rumors, but to my surprise measuring with cheap fowler instruments, which are supposedly accurate to half a thou, all the bores(main, cyl, cam, and lifter)are within spec. I will be getting some Starrett or mitutoyo instruments accurate to a tenth of a thou before I assemble. I have not checked the deck for height or square or for tunnel alignments but so far so good.
Personally I love speedmasters stuff, I’m running their 6 inch forged light weight rod, 650 N/A with a 250 shot… 409 Cubic inches, forged wiseco Domed pistons 13.6:1 compression ratio…
Are you using the chinese rod bolts or ARP?
Wont aftermarket rods not influence the lubrication of the cylinder walls? Original GM rods had oil thrower tabs on the outer side (crank side of the bearing pocket) most aftermarket rods have nothing? Will I need to modify the rods with oil channels or the crank before use??
Not to my knowledge and that's the first I've heard of that offset or tab at the mating surface being specific for oil sling. I've always used it to separate the cap from the rod. Oil is gonna get slung everywhere with or without that tab imo.
I’ve been building engines 35 years professionally customer brought those rods in balance the engine it’s combination 11 .1 E85
motor Lunati Solid lifter cam Upgraded ARP 2000 rod bolts Profiler 220 heads 406 Engine made 610hp he’s gonna be running 250 shot nitrous will see ???
I think like all their stuff it your willing to put in a lil work they are worth the money I would put a set of arp bolts in it hone if needed will hold up fine I am sure under 700 hp if your going over that buy a better set of rods
That there is all it would take for it to fail
Thanks for the shout out.👍
It happens once and a while, the stars must of been aligned correctly yesterday for me to be right? Thanks.
The rods look fine and should hold up to sn extra 150 shot no problem. It's those rod bolts that I can't guarantee if they hold up?
The entry level 700 HP ARP 8740 bolts I can say would hold together. The SM 8640 bolts........? That is where those rods would fail IF they do? I can't say for sure either way though because I always upgrade to the ARP ones because I know they will hold up.
Are there torquing constructions for those bolts?
Nope, no torque specs.
Do you have a part number for the arp bolts you mentioned? I searched for a few hours and came up with nothing. Obviously i need a set of 16.
Btw, you were right, these are doweled rods. I didnt know. The website doesnt mention it! Dowells change everything!
I put the previous vids back up, but i changed the titles, fuck speedmaster...
@@Poopdogsays
You need to know what size your bolts are to be able to order them.
For example the length from the bottom of the head, diameter and thread pitch then you can go to ARP's website and look up the part number you need. I wouldn't necessarily buy directly from them because their vendors for some reason sell their stuff for less.
They sell them in 3 different grades 1)8740 2)ARP2000 3)L-19 with #3 being the strongest and most expensive an #1 being the least strongest and least expensive which will be more than enough for what you're doing unless you're planning on future upgrades that will exceed 700 HP? I wouldn't recommend that with a factory block though, 700 HP and around 7,000 RPM is right around the limit for a factory block.
I know this is an older video .... how did these work out in your build ... id they require machine work etc ?
2 of their bolts had bad threads which caused me to mess up the threads in 1 rod. Called to ask for help. I was told they have a 1 year warranty. It was 1 year and 6 days, from the date of purchase, when i found out about the bad threads. They refused to help in any way! Speedmaster or procomp will never see another dollar from me. Scat or Eagle arent that much more expensive. Good luck!
@@Poopdogsays thank you for the update.
@@Poopdogsays so you never used them?
@@stevenbelue5496 no, every rod bolt had bad threads and i trashed the rods.
@@Poopdogsays damnit boy that sux! I guess that's why they were just thrown in the box and not threaded in huh? If i ever get any ill know to get some arp bolts, thanks
How did this shit hold up? I personally will never run procomp/speedmaster parts. Seen to much of their shit that was pure garbage. The rod itself is probably ok, the bolts and machining is what would concern me. Never use their valve train parts or roller rockers. Pure garbage. Bare heads might be ok if you have them ported.
I couldnt even assemble them. Rod bolts had jacked up threads and messed up the threads in the rod. Speedmaster refused to warranty them! No more procomp junk ever!
@@Poopdogsays I didn't want to throw off in your stuff but yeah procomp/speedmaster is fucking trash.
Those rods have terrible machining. Junk.
As a machinist myself, i dont see anything wrong with the machining. In fact it looks pretty good, it just doesnt look anything like the ad.
@@Poopdogsays that surface condition can lead to stress cracks. Most racers would never run them.
@@pmd3211 you’re wrong. That’s all I have to say, I work at a machine shop, I’ve seen these rods eat up 1k horsepower engines, completely reliable and good rods.
Those rod bolts are cheap junk. Do not run them. Are has the best bolts.
Bv
You know literally nothing about these rods do you?