Hi Scott, outstanding video! I am a 64 year old retired ASE Master Certified Automobile Technician and a High Performance Automobile owner. I have used other cylinder leak down tester(s) from other professional tool brand(s), and I also own one. Your Moroso Performance Cylinder Leak Down Tester that you are marketing at this time is a tester that I closely recognize to a Sun Engine Performance Analyzer, back in the 1970s to the early 1980s produced by Sun Electric, located on the west coast. I would recommend that before you proceed with the cylinder leak down tester, set the incoming air pressure regulator to exactly 100 PSI, so it will be easer to calculate the percentage of cylinder pressure leakage. Be sure to disconnect the low voltage connections that power the ignition system (for less chance of damage to the ignition coil or module) and remove all the spark plugs and listen for air at the adjacent cylinders (spark plug holes). Be sure to remove the radiator cap to check for bubbles in the cooling system, remove the oil filler cap as well as the crankcase breather to listen for air, open the fuel system throttle plates to listen for air, and listen for air coming from the exhaust. When performing the step by step cylinder leak down test, it might be ideal to perform the first test on the engine with an overnight cold. After that, the second test would be when the engine is at normal operating tempter, after driving it for at least one hour. And maybe a third test when the engine is good and hot, after a high speed run, on a hot summer afternoon for an hour or so. This will raise accuracy in regards to evaluating the condition of the engine. Performing the test(s) on a hot engine can be very discomforting in regards to touching the hot engine, so I suggest applying anti seize compound to the sparkplug threads, and apply dielectric silicone grease to the sparkplug wire boots, before you even begin. They also market hot engine work gloves and high heat arm sleeves. Last but not least, when performing the test, use the engines firing order as a sequential step by step work order, this will save you time and frustration. Please like and comment! Dave...
Dave! Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to add in some AWESOME info. I'll pass this along to Scott this morning! Have a great day, and again, thanks for tuning in. We appreciate it. -Ray
@@MorosoPerformance Hi Scott, thank you for your support. I edited my comment and added a supplement because I left something important out by mistake. The supplement is as follows; Be sure to disconnect the low voltage connections that power the ignition system (for less chance of damage to the ignition coil or module) and remove all the spark plugs and listen for air at the adjacent cylinders (spark plug holes).
Hi Scott, outstanding video! I am a 64 year old retired ASE Master Certified Automobile Technician and a High Performance Automobile owner. I have used other cylinder leak down tester(s) from other professional tool brand(s), and I also own one. Your Moroso Performance Cylinder Leak Down Tester that you are marketing at this time is a tester that I closely recognize to a Sun Engine Performance Analyzer, back in the 1970s to the early 1980s produced by Sun Electric, located on the west coast. I would recommend that before you proceed with the cylinder leak down tester, set the incoming air pressure regulator to exactly 100 PSI, so it will be easer to calculate the percentage of cylinder pressure leakage. Be sure to disconnect the low voltage connections that power the ignition system (for less chance of damage to the ignition coil or module) and remove all the spark plugs and listen for air at the adjacent cylinders (spark plug holes). Be sure to remove the radiator cap to check for bubbles in the cooling system, remove the oil filler cap as well as the crankcase breather to listen for air, open the fuel system throttle plates to listen for air, and listen for air coming from the exhaust. When performing the step by step cylinder leak down test, it might be ideal to perform the first test on the engine with an overnight cold. After that, the second test would be when the engine is at normal operating tempter, after driving it for at least one hour. And maybe a third test when the engine is good and hot, after a high speed run, on a hot summer afternoon for an hour or so. This will raise accuracy in regards to evaluating the condition of the engine. Performing the test(s) on a hot engine can be very discomforting in regards to touching the hot engine, so I suggest applying anti seize compound to the sparkplug threads, and apply dielectric silicone grease to the sparkplug wire boots, before you even begin. They also market hot engine work gloves and high heat arm sleeves. Last but not least, when performing the test, use the engines firing order as a sequential step by step work order, this will save you time and frustration. Please like and comment! Dave...
Dave! Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to add in some AWESOME info. I'll pass this along to Scott this morning! Have a great day, and again, thanks for tuning in. We appreciate it.
-Ray
@@MorosoPerformance Hi Scott, thank you for your support. I edited my comment and added a supplement because I left something important out by mistake. The supplement is as follows; Be sure to disconnect the low voltage connections that power the ignition system (for less chance of damage to the ignition coil or module) and remove all the spark plugs and listen for air at the adjacent cylinders (spark plug holes).
great video Scott!
Glad you enjoyed it!!
A tool every mechanic should have, but few actually use it.
Exactly! Thanks for tuning in!